Valais |
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LOWER VALAIS
CHAMPÉRY
MARTIGNY
AROUND MARTIGNY
MONT BLANC
VERBIER
VAL DE BAGNES
OVRONNAZ
SION
AROUND SION
SIERRE
SALGESCH
CRANS-MONTANA
VAL D’ANNIVIERS
UPPER VALAIS
LEUK
LEUKERBAD
LÖTSCHENTAL
VISP
BRIGERBAD
ZERMATT
SAAS FEE
BRIG
THE GOMS & ALETSCH GLACIER
As melt-in-your-mouth as the chocolate-box angles of Matterhorn, as cool as the slopes in Verbier, as intoxicating as the wines of Salgesch – Valais is a salacious natural beauty. Wedged into a remote corner of southern Switzerland, this is where farmers were so poor they didn’t have two francs to rub together a century ago and where today luminaries sip Sfr10,000 champagne cocktails at Coco Club.
This fickle canton can be as earthy as a vintner’s boots in September and as clean as the aesthetic in Zermatt’s lounge bars, as splintery as a blackened barn and as smooth as velvet ropes in Verbier. Although united in matters of cantonal pride, wine and glorious fromage (cheese), the French- and German-speaking towns reveal idiosyncrasies. To the west Martigny hides Henry Moore sculptures and slobbery St Bernards, while tracing the curves of the Rhône east brings you to castle-topped vineyards in Sion and the baroque grandeur of Brig.
Marvellously eccentric and deeply traditional, Valais is a one-off. In snowbound winters of yore, locals amused themselves with feats of weirdness. Today you’ll still find friendly cow fights and dung-whacking festivals, hairy Tschäggättä prowling the lonesome Lötschental come carnival time and dreadlocked, black-nosed sheep patrolling pastures in summer. Even the ubiquitous granaries are unique – built on stilts with stone slabs to outwit thieving rodents.
Peculiarities aside, Valais’ landscapes will leave you dumbstruck: from the unfathomable Matterhorn (4478m) that defies trigonometry, photography and many a karabiner to the Rhône valley’s tapestry of vineyards, the polished teeth of Dents du Midi rising aboveChampéry to the shimmering 23km Aletsch Glacier. Valais is a tale of rags to riches, of changing seasons and celebrities, of an outdoors so great it never goes out of fashion.
HIGHLIGHTS
- Striding, climbing or schussing in the shadow of Switzerland’s pyramid-perfect Matterhorn
- Getting gooey over the tribe of slobbery St Bernards at Musée et Chiens du Saint-Bernard in Martigny
- Quaffing Pinot Noir at the source and strolling sun-dappled vineyards in Salgesch
- Melting over the views of 4000m peaks rearing above the seemingly never-ending Aletsch Glacier
- Drifting in the thermal baths of Leukerbad set against a canyon-like backdrop
- POPULATION: 298,500
- AREA: 5224.5 SQ KM
- LANGUAGE: FRENCH & GERMAN
History
As in neighbouring Vaud, Julius Caesar was an early ‘tourist’ in these parts. The Roman leader brought an army to conquer the Celtic community living in the valley, penetrating as far as Sierre. Once under Roman domination, the four Celtic tribes of Valais were peaceably integrated into the Roman system. Archaeological remains attest to the passage of the rambling general and his boys from Rome.
Sion became a key centre in the valley when the Bishop of Valais settled there from AD 580. By 1000, the bishop’s power stretched from Martigny to the Furka Pass. That authority did not go uncontested. A succession of Dukes of Savoy encroached on the bishops’ territory and a Savoyard army besieged Sion in 1475. With the help of the Swiss Confederation, the city was freed at the battle of Planta. Internal opposition was equally weighty and Valais’ independently minded communes stripped the bishops of their secular power in the 1630s, shifting control to the Diet, a regional parliament.
The Valais was not invaded again until Napoleon Bonaparte stopped by in 1798, determined to dominate the routes into Italy. Valais joined the Swiss Confederation in 1815.
Orientation & Information
The Rhône carves a broad, sunny valley between the Bernese Alps to the north and the Valaisan Alps marking the southern frontier with France and Italy. French dominates the lower (western) valley and German the upper (eastern) half of the canton.
Information is available at the regional tourist office, Valais Tourisme (
027 327 35 70; www.valais.ch; Rue de Pré-Fleuri 6, Sion; 
8am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri).
Getting There & Around
The smoothest routes are from Italy to Martigny (via the Great St Bernard Pass and Tunnel) and Brig (via the Simplon Pass and Tunnel). The most direct route from Chamonix, France, to Valais is by road from Martigny. The N19 highway enters the canton in the east via the Furka Pass and passes through main junctions like Brig. In Sierre it becomes the A9 freeway, continuing to Sion, Martigny and then north to Geneva. The same route is served by a major rail line, with a branch route into Italy via Domodossola.
The Erlebniskarte Wallis is a transport card for Upper Valais and entitles holders to two, three or five days’ (Sfr95/125/175) unlimited travel on trains and buses within a one-month period. It gives you 50% off on most lifts and sporting activities on those days too.
The three-day Mont Blanc Pass, covering Mont Blanc Express/St Bernard Express trains between Chamonix, Martigny and Aosta, costs adult/child Sfr75/38. Ask at the towns’ tourist offices about the passes.
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LOWER VALAIS
Stone-walled vineyards, tumbledown castle ruins and brooding mountains create an arresting backdrop to the meandering Rhône valley in western Valais. Running west to east, the A9 freeway links towns such as Roman-rooted Martigny and vine-strewn Sion and Sierre, where the French influence shows not only in the lingo but also in the locals’ passion for art, wine and pavement cafés.
Glitzy resorts like Verbier and Crans-Montana have carved out reputations for sunny cruising, big panoramas and celebrity style, but there’s more. Narrow lanes wriggle up to forgotten valleys such as Val d’Anniviers and Val d’Arolla, packed with rural charm and crowd-free skiing in the shadow of ice-capped mountains.
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CHAMPÉRY
pop 1260 / elevation 1055m
Champéry still feels like a well-kept secret. Stuck between the pointy jaws of Dents du Midi and Dents Blanches, this hidden Swiss chocolate box is worth seeking. Small but beautiful, the resort exudes authenticity, with its cosy log chalets and friendly locals. Les Portes du Soleil region offers larger-than-life skiing with a whopping 650km of pistes to play on.
The Champéry tourist office (024 479 20 20; www.champery.ch; 8am-noon & 2-6pm), 50m from the station, can help arrange activities such as canyoning.
Activities
Champéry is at the heart of slalom wonderland Les Portes du Soleil (Gateway to the Sun; www.portesdusoleil.com), straddling the Franco-Swiss border, a downhill heaven forintermediate, backcountry skiers and snowboarders. Cross-country skiers can explore 243km of trails. Morzine and Avoriaz in France are just a lift ride away. Day ski passes for the whole area cost Sfr55/46/44/37 per adult/student or under 26 years/senior/child.
THE WALL
A short walk from the top of Planachaux cable car, Croix de Culet (1963m) affords an eagle’s-eye perspective of serrated limestone pinnacles.
In summer, the 40km trail around the Dents du Midi is a memorable multi-day hike. Easier but equally scenic is the amble along Galerie Défago, hewn out of the implausibly sheer rock face. The tourist office can provide details on walking, biking and climbing.
Sleeping & Eating
Hôtel des Alpes (024 479 12 22; www.hotel-desalpes.ch; Rue du Village 9; s/d 135/230; 
) Go traditional or modern in rooms with wi-fi and sunny balconies at this family-run chalet. You’ll soon warm to the place swaddled in a sheepskin by the open fire or savouring crumbly croissants at breakfast.
Hôtel Beau-Séjour (024 479 58 58; www.bo-sejour.com; Rue du Village 114; s/d Sfr145/250) Robert and Hélène run this cutesy pad, a joyous ski-boot hop from the lifts. With fluffy duvets and painted furniture, the pine-filled rooms are incredibly snug, and the balconies afford dreamy mountain views. Nice touch: homemade cakes served by a log fire.
Mitchell’s (024 479 20 10; mains Sfr18-40; 11am-midnight) Nordic sylvan chic and laid-back vibes make Mitchell’s a must. That and the après-ski glögg (mulled wine), and Swedish treats like home-smoked reindeer carpaccio with lingonberries, and eye-candy staff.
Getting There & Away
From Aigle (20 minutes along the train track from Martigny to Lausanne), a train runs via Monthey hourly to Champéry (Sfr12.80, one hour).
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MARTIGNY
pop 15,375 / elevation 476m
Once the stomping ground of Romans in search of Swiss wine and sunshine en route to Italy, Martigny is Valais’ oldest town. Look beyond its less lovable elements (namely concrete high-rises) and the rewards are many; among them a world-class galleryshowcasing works by Henry Moore and Rodin, an intact Roman amphitheatre, and a posse of droopy St Bernards at the Musée et Chiens du Saint-Bernard.
Fresh, youthful and arty, Martigny isn’t always pretty, but it is interesting and an antidote to Alpine cuteness overkill. It’s also the perfect base for vineyard strolls and two-wheeled adventures along the Rhône.
Orientation & Information
Most action spirals around Place Centrale, where you’ll find the tourist office (027 720 49 49; www.martignytourism.ch; Place Centrale; 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm Sat summer, plus 10am-noon & 4-6pm Sun Jul & Aug, closed Sun & Sat afternoon rest of year), 500m south of the train station along Ave de la Gare.
Sights & Activities
Set in a spacey concrete edifice, the Fondation Pierre Gianadda (027 722 39 78; www.gianadda.ch; Rue du Forum; adult/student/family Sfr15/12/42; 9am-7pm Jun-Nov, 10am-6pm Dec-May) harbours a star-studded art collection. A copy of Rodin’s The Kiss sculpture by the entrance promises great things and the gallery delivers with works by Picasso, Cézanne and van Gogh, occasionally shifted to make space for blockbuster exhibitions. A highlight is the garden where Henry Moore’s organic sculptures and Niki de Saint Phalle’s buxom Bathers peek above the foliage.
Entry covers two other permanent exhibitions. Upstairs the Musée Archéologique Gallo-Romain is a treasure-trove of Roman milestones, vessels and jewellery. Fine pieces include the titchy statuette of Celtic horse goddess Epona. Downstairs the Musée de l’Auto gleams with chrome-plated nostalgia, showing classic cars from vintage Fords to Swiss Martinis (the kind you drive, not drink).
Revisit Martigny’s fascinating Roman past at the meticulously restored Roman Amphitheatre (admission free) nearby.
Next to the amphitheatre is the town’s new tail-wagging attraction, Musée et Chiens du Saint-Bernard (027 720 49 20, www.museesaintbernard.ch, Rte du Levant 34; adult/child/under 8yr Sfr10/8/free; 9am-7pm Jun-Nov, 10am-6pm Dec-May). A tribute to the lovably dopey St Bernard, this museum would merit but a sniff if it weren’t for the real-life fluff bundles in the kennels. If you’re lucky, you might be able to stroke them; all together now, ah… Upstairs an exhibition traces the role of St Bernards in hospice life, on canvas (note Ernst Otto Leuenberger’s oil paintings), in advertising and on film. From Suchard to Peter Pan, these pooches have serious star quality.
Clinging to a crag above Martigny, Château de la Bâtiaz (Bâtiaz Castle; 027 721 22 70; admission free; 11am-6pm Fri-Sun mid-May–mid-Oct) is worth the uphill pant for its far-reaching views over the surrounding vineyards and Rhône valley. Less appealing is the gruesome collection of medieval torture instruments inside.
Nip into the tourist office for details on vineyard walks or a free cycling map of the famous 320km Rhône Route from Andermatt to Lake Geneva. Bike hire is available at the train station.
Festivals & Events
Pigs don’t fly, but cows certainly fight in Martigny. The 10-day October Foire du Valais (Valais Regional Fair) ends with a bovine bash-about of epic proportions (see Close Cow Encounters, Click here).
If the idea of watching crunch-tackle cows doesn’t appeal, there’s sizzling action at the Foire du Lard (Bacon Fair) in December. Local residents have been picking on the prize porkers since the Middle Ages.
Sleeping
Martigny’s tutti-frutti tower-block hotels have all the charm of prefab ’70s bedsits. Yet scratch the surface and you’ll find attractive deals, particularly if you go the extra 2km (five-minute train ride) south to Martigny-Croix. The tourist office has a list of B&Bs and apartments.
Camping Les Neuvilles (027 722 45 44; Rue du Levant 68; sites per adult/tent Sfr8.80/9.20; 
) This countrified campsite is a half-hiking boot’s distance from the centre. Its first-rate facilities include a restaurant and swimming pool.
La Résidence (027 723 16 00; www.residence-martigny.ch; Les Creusats, Martigny-Croix; s/d Sfr70/120) Sitting pretty amid vineyards, this rosy guest house has big sunny rooms with garden-facing terraces. Chantal and Jean-François will feed you tips over a delicious breakfast with homemade jam, local cheese and ham.
Hôtel Beau Site (027 722 81 64; www.chemin.ch; Chemin-Dessus; s/d Sfr110/140) Perched on wooded slopes, this retreat oozes art-nouveau flair with stained-glass windows and classically elegant rooms. Follow the road from Rue des Champs-du-Bourg roundabout north to Chemin-Dessus. Local bus 5 heads up here hourly (25 minutes).
Eating & Drinking
Plane tree-flanked Place Centrale is Martigny’s life, soul and party, framed by pavement cafés and bistros serving everything from pizza to sugary crêpes.
La Vache Qui Vole (027 722 38 33; Place Centrale 2b; mains Sfr18-40; 10.30am-1am Mon-Sat) Martigny’s ‘Flying Cow’ is a theatrical gallery-style restaurant with Boho ambience and cult cow kitsch: from the angelic bovine beauty suspended from the ceiling to snazzy cowbell lights. Check out the quirky Virgin Mary collection upstairs. Salads, pasta, risotto, Sri Lankan curries – it’s all uniformly delicious.
Le Belvédère (027 723 14 00; Chemin-Dessous; mains Sfr26-43; closed Mon & Tue, dinner Sun) A country lane snakes up to this dapper mansion, where you can savour long views over the Rhône valley and regional treats like Val d’Hérens beef tournedos in creamy chanterelle sauce in the pine-panelled dining room. See the directions for Hôtel Beau Site.
Café du Midi (027 722 00 03; Rue des Marronniers 4; mains Sfr20-35; closed Tue) This shabby-chic café near the church emits an inviting glow. You too will radiate warmth when you sit at one of the well-worn wooden tables to guzzle Trappist brews and gorge on fondue with mountain herbs. There’s free wi-fi.
Le Loup Blanc (027 723 52 52; Place Centrale 12; mains Sfr18-30; 8am-1am) Warm colours and a Med-style menu make this avant-garde café popular. Everything from calamari to pizza is beautifully cooked and artfully presented.
Barock Café (027 722 71 60; www.barock-café.com, in French; Place Centrale 8; 10am-1am) With a design born in the USA – think Pepsi placards and pics of rock-and-roll legends – this groovy bar doubles as a venue for gigs. By night it’s as loud and lively as it gets in Martigny.
Getting There & Away
Martigny is on the main rail route from Lausanne (Sfr23, 50 minutes) to Brig (Sfr25, 50 to 60 minutes). Buses go from Martigny via Orsières and the Great St Bernard Tunnel to Aosta in Italy (Sfr31.80, at least two departures per day).
The private Mont-Blanc Express (027 721 68 40; www.tmrsa.ch) usually goes hourly to Chamonix (Sfr32, 1½ hours) in France, with up to 12 trips daily in the high season. Martigny is also the departure point for the St Bernard Express to Le Châble (Sfr10.20, 26 minutes; ski lift or bus connection for Verbier) and Orsières (Sfr10.20, 26 minutes) via Sembrancher.
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AROUND MARTIGNY
Val d’Entremont & Great St Bernard Pass
Emblazoned with its canine mascot, the St Bernard Express train from Martigny to Orsières branches south at Sembrancher, chugging south to the Italian border through classic Alpine scenery in the Val d’Entremont. Orsières, just off the main road to the Col du Great St-Bernard, marks the beginning of pine-brushed Val Ferret. Here you could pause for lunch at Hôtel les Alpes (027 783 11 01; lunch menus Sfr65, dinner menus Sfr180; closed dinner Mon), a former inn where today Michelin-starred chef Jean-Maurice Joris conjures seasonal delicacies, from juicy Burgundy snails to freshly hunted game.
A branch road leads to Champex, which sits by a glassy lake. From Orsières it’s a 1¾-hour walk. A chair lift operates in winter and summer to La Breya (2194m), where views reach to snowcapped Grand Combin (4314m).
Wildlife spotters with their own wheels could follow the N21 road further south towards Drance, then turn off for Vichères. Look out for a footpath a couple of kilometres before reaching the hamlet. This trail leads along La Combe de l’A nature reserve, which is particularly beautiful on golden autumn days when you may well spy rutting stags.
The N21 dips south to the Italian border, which you can cross by tunnel or twisting mountain road, depending on your preferences and weather conditions.
High on a col overlooking a petrol-blue lake, the hospice (027 787 12 36; dm/d Sfr21/66) at Great St Bernard Pass is snowed in for up to six months of the year. In winter, the only way up or down is on foot (snowshoes or skis) from the entrance to the tunnel 7km downhill. Call ahead to find out if it’s open and if there’s space. Dorms are spartan, but the monks are welcoming and the setting is magical.
Monks have kept the hospice since the 11th century to give spiritual succour and rescue travellers lost in the snow. And so the legend of the St Bernard dogs was born, as they frequently found the lost souls and did the rescuing. No nose was finer tuned than that of doggie legend Barry (1800–1814), who saved 40 lives. Fondation Barry runs the kennels and museum (adult/senior/child Sfr8/6.50/5.50; 9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9am-noon & 1-6pm Jun & Sep), which you can visit in summer.
LET ME DO THE WALKING
Big softie or not, everyone loves a St Bernard, so Fondation Barry (027 722 65 42; www.fondation-barry.ch) has come up with a clever plan to please visitors to the Great St Bernard Pass and ensure the dogs get regular exercise. From July to mid-September, you can accompany the doe-eyed woofers on a 1½-hour walk over the pass. These guided strolls are a one-off chance to lap up the Alpine scenery and, of course, give the dogs much-needed strokes. Walks depart daily at 10am (brisk) and 2pm (gentle) and cost Sfr48 for adults and Sfr8 for children.
To get to the hospice from Martigny in summer, take the St Bernard Express train to Orsières (Click here) and change for the connecting bus (45 minutes). The total cost from Martigny is Sfr25. Otherwise the bus won’t go past Bourg St Pierre.
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MONT BLANC
elevation 4810m
Yes, you read the elevation right. Despite the fact textbooks say 4807m, Mont Blanc is, ironically, growing because of global warming, with more snow massing on its summit than previously. Although it’s not actually in Switzerland, the giant of the Alps feels close enough to touch at times. The main resort in France is Chamonix, famous for its hair-raising chutes and steep off-piste terrain. It’s easily reached by road from Geneva or by train from Martigny. The must-ski for the fit is Europe’s longest run, Vallée Blanche, an epic 22km glacier descent that starts at the 3880m spike of Aiguille du Midi and finishes in Chamonix. On the Italian side, the big resort is Courmayeur. For information on both resorts, see www.chamonix.com and www.courmayeur.com. Hikers can tackle the stunning 170km Mont Blanc circuit, about a third of which passes through Switzerland. The high-level route climbs above 2500m and typically takes 10 to 14 days. In Switzerland trailheads include Champex (left) and Col de la Forclaz pass, reached by bus from Martigny.
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VERBIER
pop 2800 / elevation 1500m
Verbier is the diamond of the Valaisan Alps: small, stratospherically expensive and cut at all the right angles to make it sparkle in the eyes of accomplished skiers and piste-bashing stars. British royals have flocked here for years, but the snow just got hotter with the likes of Sir Richard Branson playing hotelier and new resident James Blunt practisingyodelling (oh dear) from his balcony.
Yet despite its ritzy packaging, Verbier is that rare beast of a resort – all things to all people. It swings from schnapps-fuelled debauchery to VIP lounges, bunker hostels to design-oriented hotels, burgers to Michelin stars. Here ski bums and celebs slalom in harmony on powder that is legendary.
Orientation & Information
Verbier sits on a southwest-facing ledge above Le Châble, the rail terminus. The resort proper is uphill from Verbier village. Verbier’s hub is Place Centrale home to the tourist office (027 775 38 88; www.verbier.ch; 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 3-7pm Sat, 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm Sun). Just off the square is the post office and postal bus terminus. Verbier is mostly shut between seasons, including the cable cars. The resort has a free bus service in the high season.
YOU’RE BEAUTIFUL, VERBIER, IT’S TRUE…
Activities
Verbier’s skiing is justifiably billed as some of Europe’s finest. The resort sits at the heart of the Quatre Vallées (Four Valleys), comprising a cool 412km of runs and 94 ski lifts. A regional ski pass costs Sfr65. Cheaper passes excluding Mont Fort are also available.
The terrain is exciting and varied, with beginners on gentle slopes at Le Rouge and intermediates carving long slopes at La Chaux. Boarders make for the latter to catch big air on kickers and rails. Experts can tackle short blacks like Savoleyres Nord and the heart-stoppingly steep, mogul-speckled Mont-Fort run. The broad, well-groomed runs from Les Attelas to Verbier are ideal for cruising. Real challenges lie off-piste in the virgin powder for accomplished skiers. It’s wise to hire a guide. Adrenaline (079 205 95 95; www.adrenaline-verbier.ch) arranges freeride tours from Médran lift for around Sfr100.
Verbier Sport + (027 775 33 63; www.verbierbooking.com), behind the post office, offers ski instruction, paragliding and other activities, including a six-day trek along the Haute Route to Zermatt.
The hiking here is superb. From Les Ruinettes, it takes 1½ hours to ascend to the ridge at Creblet, and down into the crater to Lac des Vaux. Other worthwhile walks include the seven-hour trek to Corbassière glacier, which snakes down from 4314m Grand Combin, and the five-hour Sentier des Chamois trail, popular with wildlife lovers as it offers chances to spot chamois, marmots and eagles. The tourist office regional map costs Sfr8.
Downhill freaks can flaunt their expertise on routes from Les Ruinettes and Médran or hone their skills at Kona Bike Park (027 775 25 11; www.verbierbikepark.ch; adult/child Sfr28/14; 9am-4.30pm Jul-Sep). The tourist office organises free guided mountain bike tours every Wednesday afternoon in July and August; contact them for details.
If being on the top of a mountain isn’t high enough, you can take to the air hang-gliding or paragliding. Centre de Parapente (027 771 68 18; www.flyverbier.ch) offers 30-minute tandem flights from Sfr190.
Festivals & Events
The biggest bash is the Verbier Festival & Academy (027 925 90 60; www.verbierfestival.com) in July, a high-profile classical music festival.
A highlight on the winter sports calendar is the Xtreme Freeride Contest (www2.xtremeverbier.com) in March, when pro snowboarders brave the hair-raising Bec des Rosses North Face.
Sleeping
Verbier is doable for ski bums on a budget with a little preplanning. If money isn’t an issue, there are posh digs that will help you fritter away your francs – fast. Rates nosedive by 30% to 50% in summer.
Le Stop (079 549 72 23; www.le-stop.ch; Villa Des Dames; Le Châble; dm Sfr29-45) This former bunker has a new raison d’être with no-frills dorms. What you’ll get is four walls, a queue for the loo and a rickety bunk, but at Sfr29 a night, with Verbier just a cable-car ride away, frankly it’s a gift. Bring your own sleeping bag.
Cabane du Mont-Fort (027 778 13 84; www.cabanemontfort.ch; dm Sfr42-52) Above the clouds with mesmerising vistas to the Massif des Combins, this 2457m-high Alpine hut is brilliant for walkers in summer and skiers in winter, with direct access to La Chaux. Expect cosy slumber in pine-panelled dorms, panoramas that will motivate you to rise at dawn and a restaurant serving tasty mountain grub.
Les Touristes (027 771 21 47; www.hoteltouristes-verbier.ch; s/d Sfr70/140; ) If you think le chic c’est freak, try this rustic chalet. Rooms are modest yet comfy with pine trappings, floral bedding and washbasins. The restaurant (mains Sfr19 to Sfr39) will fill your belly with cheese or buy farm-fresh fromage next door. It’s a 15-minute walk from the centre.
Ermitage (027 771 64 77; www.ermitage-verbier.ch; Place Centrale; s/d Sfr150/310; 
) This central chalet has smiley service and perks like free internet and wi-fi. Though a tad poky, rooms are modern and spotless. Quiet south-facing doubles with views to the Massif des Combins are a better deal.
Nevaï (027 775 40 00 www.nevai.ch; s/d/ste Sfr300/490/1350; ) There’s not a whiff of Alpine kitsch in Nevaï’s minimalist chic rooms – think earthy hues, beds dressed in Egyptian cotton, balconies with Alpine views, and gadgets like iPods and DVD players. Penthouses come with log fires and outdoor whirlpools. The hip restaurant (mains Sfr30 to Sfr60) serves Asian–Med fusion cuisine, the spa has Elemis treatments and the boudoir-style bar offers decadent cocktails beside a 4m-long fireplace.
Eating
Milk Bar (027 771 67 77; Rue de Médran; snacks & light meals Sfr8-20) This mellow hut is famous for its grands crus de cacao (hot chocolate) and toasty atmosphere. Sit under the cowbells for scrummy homemade tarts, pancakes and other sugar-loaded treats to put a whoosh in your schuss.
Harold’s (027 771 62 43; Place Centrale; burgers around Sfr10; 10am-1.30am high season, 11am-11pm low season) Thumping music mixes with hissing grills at Harold’s, where the menu is sweet and simple: 100% homemade burgers slathered in cocktail sauce. Check emails while you wait.
Chez Dany (027 771 25 24; Clambin; mains Sfr26-54) On a sunny plateau between Les Ruinettes and Médran, this buzzy chalet is Prince William’s favourite place to tuck into a juicy steak. The terrace affords sweeping views to the Massif des Combins. Revive snow-sore eyes over hot chocolate or cheesy croÛte au fromage. It’s fun to take a skidoo up here in the evening and sledge back down.
Le Caveau (027 771 22 26, Place Centrale; mains Sfr27-42; 10am-midnight Wed-Sun) Behind the barrel door lies a cave-like den strewn with cuckoo clocks and lanterns. It’s a cosy spot for Raclette or posh fondue with champagne and truffles.
Drinking
Like the skiing, the après-ski scene in Verbier is full throttle, kicking off on the slopes before sliding down to Place Centrale.
Pub Mont Fort (027 771 48 98; Chemin de la Tinte 10; 3pm-1.30am) All hail this après-ski heavyweight for its lively vibe, pulsating beats and half-price tipples at happy hour (4pm to 5pm). Try a vodka-cranberry Swiss Kiss. In winter, it sells the most beer in Switzerland – enough said.
Farinet (027 771 66 26; Place Centrale; 4pm-1.30am) Young, loud and fun (if your idea of fun is bootylicious snow-boot jiggling), Farinet is another wild après-ski haunt. The conservatory brims with ruddy-faced ski bums guzzling shakers and dancing on tables, while the chill-out lounge offers rest for the wicked.
Farm Club (027 771 61 21; Rue de la Poste) Looking gorgeous following a complete makeover, the Farm has been going strong for 35 years. You’ll need to dress up to slip past the velvet rope but it’s worth it. The swanky club heaves with socialites out spending daddy’s (or sugar daddy’s) pension on Moët magnums.
Getting There & Away
Trains from Martigny run hourly year-round, take 30 minutes and terminate at Le Châble. From there you either get a bus or, when it’s running, the cable car. The full trip costs Sfr15.80 and takes about an hour.
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VAL DE BAGNES
From Le Châble it’s a 19km drive south to Lac de Mauvoisin (Lake Mauvoisin), aneye-popping 250m-high dam. Several hiking trails set out from here, including one that crosses the mountain frontier with Italy over the Fenêtre du Durand pass (2797m) and down into the Valpelline valley in the Val d’Aosta region. Three daily buses run on weekends from Le Châble (Sfr13.80, 45 minutes).
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OVRONNAZ
Few people cotton on to this petite but attractive family-friendly ski resort with thermal baths. From Martigny, head east up the A9 as far as the Leytron turn-off, where a mountain road zigzags 10km north to Ovronnaz. The tourist office (027 306 42 93; www.ovronnaz.ch; 8.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun mid-Dec–mid-Apr, 8.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 2-5pm Sat, closed Sun mid-Apr–mid-Dec), at the north end of the village near Coop supermarket, can advise on B&Bs and apartments.
The limited skiing here is geared towards intermediates and makes for a queue-free day cruising. What makes it especially fun is combining the slopes with bath time. A combined lift pass and entry to the Thermalp baths (027 305 11 11; www.thermalp.ch; 8am-8.30pm) costs Sfr57 (a saving of Sfr5 on paying for them separately).
Buses run from Martigny (change at Leytron) hourly (Sfr13.80, about one hour). You have similar options from Sion.
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SION
pop 28,870 / elevation 490m
Sion has a bewitching backdrop: ringed by vineyards, bisected by the serpentine Rhône and watched over by twin pop-up hills crowned with ruined castles that glow by night. The Valaisan capital moves to a relaxed beat, with pavement cafés lining the helter-skelter of lanes that thread down from Château de Tourbillon to the medieval Old Town.
Castles and cobbles aside, much of Sion’s appeal lies in the surrounding vine-strewn hills inviting languid strolls and foaming rivers perfect for adrenalin-pumping pursuits like white-water rafting and hydrospeeding.
Orientation
The French-speaking town sits north of the Rhône. The train station is downhill and south of the Old Town, facing the modern, commercial heart of Sion. Most areas of interest are within walking distance of the station, along Ave de la Gare and Rue de Lausanne.
Information
Sion has a post office (Place de la Gare 11; 8am-6.15pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) and a tourist office (027 327 77 27; www.siontourism.ch; Place de la Planta; 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat).
Sights
CHURCHES & TOWERS
Graced with a sturdy Romanesque tower, Gothic Notre Dame du Glarier and its smaller 16th-century sidekick Église de St Théodule vie for your attention on a leafy square in the Old Town. Up Rue de la Tour from the churches is a reminder of Sion’s medieval past, the Tour des Sorciers (Wizards’ Tower), one of the watchtowers in the one-time city walls.
CHÂTEAU DE TOURBILLON
Lording it over the fertile Rhône valley from its hilltop perch above Sion, this ruined castle (027 606 47 45; Rue des Châteaux; admission free; 10am-6pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov) is worth the trudge alone for the postcard views. It’s a short climb from the centre to the crumbling remains of this medieval stronghold, destroyed by fire in 1788.
CHÂTEAU DE VALÈRE
Slung on a hill above the centre opposite Château de Tourbillon is fortified Château de Valère, sheltering a 12th-century basilica (Rue des Châteaux; adult/child/family Sfr3/2/6; hourly visits 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun Oct-May). The world’s oldest playable organ juts out from the wall opposite the apse like the stern of a medieval caravel. Concerts are held on Saturday afternoons (from 4pm) from mid-July to mid-August.
The church interior reveals beautifully carved choir stalls and a brightly frescoed apse. From the basilica you have a commanding panoramic view across the city. Downhill from the basilica is Musée Cantonal d’Histoire (027 606 47 15; adult/child/family Sfr8/4/15; 11am-6pm daily Jun-Sep, 11am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-May), spelling out Sion’s history in artefacts.
MAISON SUPERSAXO
Squirreled away in a cobbled courtyard in the Old Town, this grand residence (Passage de Supersaxo; admission free; 8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) was built by Georges Supersaxo in 1505 to provoke his friend-turned-enemy, the bishop of Sion. Exhibits tracing the city’s history are eclipsed by the beautiful faded frescos, cross‑ribbed vaulting and intricately carved ceilings of the building itself.
MUSÉE D’ART
Lodged in a vine-strewn 13th-century castle, the well-curated Musée d’Art (Museum of Fine Art; 027 606 46 90; Place de la Marjorie 19; adult/child/family Sfr5/2.50/10; 11am-5pm Tue-Sun) showcases works by Swiss artists including Ernest Bieler and Caspar Wolf, alongside star pieces by Austrian Expressionist Oskar Kokoschka.
Activities
Sion’s terraced vineyards yield highly quaffable dôle and Fendant wines. You can ramble through the vines and taste tipples at the source on the gentle 7km walk along 500-year-old aqueduct Bisse de Clavau from Sion to St-Léonard.
Alternatively, explore the vineyards and the banks of the Rhône by bike. The eco-friendly initiative Sion Roule (Place du Scex; 9am-7pm mid-May–mid-Sep) offers free bike hire, but you’ll need to show ID and leave a Sfr50 deposit.
Hugging the Rhône, Sion is a terrific base for splashy adventures. Swissraft Activity (027 475 35 10; www.swissraft-activity.ch; Rue du Scex 28; office 10am-6pm May-Oct) takes thrill-seekers white-water rafting (Sfr75 to Sfr95), hydrospeeding (Sfr140) and canyoning (Sfr160).
Sleeping
If Sion’s cookie-cutter chain hotels don’t appeal, there are attractive chalets, farms and B&Bs in the area. Pick up a list at the tourist office.
Ranch (027 203 13 13; www.ranch.ch; per person Sfr25; May-Oct) Snooze in a straw-filled barn, breakfast on bacon and eggs, then canter off into the countryside at the Ranch. The friendly owners arrange horse-riding treks and sell home-grown jam and juice. It’s 5km from the train station. Take a postal bustowards Evolène and get off at Les Fontaines.
SYHA Hostel (027 323 74 70; www.youthhostel.ch; Rue de l’Industrie 2; dm/d Sfr31.50/82; 8-10am & 5-10pm closed Jan–mid-Mar, late Oct-Dec) This hostel behind the train station won’t bowl you over with personality, but dorms are bright and clean, and facilities include a garden, games room and bike rental.
Les Simples (027 398 10 37; www.lessimples.ch; Chemin des Gardes de Nuit 36; r per person Sfr40) Scenically poised on the banks of the Rhône, this chalet-style B&B offers no-frills pine-panelled rooms. There’s a fruit tree-shaded garden and a restaurant serving local organic fare. It’s 10 minutes’ stroll from the station.
Eating & Drinking
Rue du Grand-Pont is peppered with restaurants and bars, many with alfresco seating.
Grand Pont (027 322 20 96; Rue du Grand-Pont 6; mains Sfr25-42; Mon-Sat) Art-slung walls, space-age lighting and bubbly staff make this café a top pick. The menu skips from Thai-style papaya salad to sushi. Sit on the terrace when the sun’s out.
L’Enclos de Valère (027 323 32 30; Rue des Châteaux 18; mains Sfr30-45; Tue-Sat) Up the cobbled lane to Tourbillon, this cottagey restaurant offers a taste of rural France with seasonal flavour bombs, from garlicky fish soup to venison with chestnut risotto. The garden bristles with vines and fruit trees (check out the kiwis!).
Cave de Tous-Vents (027 322 46 84; Rue des Châteaux 16; mains Sfr22-43; 5pm-midnight) Flickering candles illuminate the brick vaults of this medieval cellar, where loved-up couples dine in cosy nooks. Just as gooey is the fondue, including varieties with saffron or chanterelles.
Contrejour (027 323 21 11; Ave de la Gare 6; 6pm-1am Mon-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat) Brushed gold walls and choc-mint velvet stools define Sion’s hippest hangout, which also has a courtyard for summertime tipples. DJs spin house at the weekend.
Getting There & Away
AIR
The airport (027 329 06 00; www.sionairport.ch; Rte de l’Aéroport) is 2km west of the train station; bus 1 goes there (Sfr3.60). There are year-round flights to Edinburgh, London and Corsica. During the ski season shuttle buses operate direct from the airport to resorts such as Crans-Montana, Verbier and Zermatt.
BUS
Postal buses leave from outside the train station. For information, call 027 327 34 34 or ask at the train station.
TRAIN
All trains on the express route between Lausanne (Sfr29, 50 to 70 minutes) and Brig (Sfr18.20, 35 to 45 minutes) stop in Sion.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The A9 freeway passes by Sion. There’s free parking by the swimming pool, five minutes’ walk west of the youth hostel.
Europcar (027 323 88 88; Place de la Gare 1) is at the train station. Hertz (027 322 37 42; Ave Ritz 33) is at Garage du Nord, and there’s also Avis (027 322 20 77; Ave de Tourbillon 23-25).
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AROUND SION
Lac Souterrain St-Léonard
Tiny St-Léonard hides Europe’s biggest underground lake (027 203 22 66; www.lac-souterrain.com; adult/child/under 5yr Sfr10/5/free; 9am-5pm mid-Mar-Oct, to 5.30pm Jun-Aug). To see the emerald waters shimmer, join a 30-minute guided tour (available in English). Trains run at least hourly from Sion to St-Léonard (Sfr3.40; four to 18 minutes).
Val d’Hérémence
Out of earshot of tourist footsteps, this valley remains mystifyingly unknown, despite harbouring one of the world’s greatest hydraulic marvels, the 285m-high Grande Dixence dam. From Sion, follow the signs for this valley and the Val d’Hérens, which share the same road as far as Vex, where you branch right and follow a twisting road 30km to the dam.
You can’t miss the quirky Cubist-style church in Hérémence that caused uproar when it was erected in the 1960s. The heavily wooded valley narrows as you gain altitude, finally opening up into a plain before the road becomes a country lane. It then makes a series of dizzying switchbacks to the base of the dam, which will force you to look up in wonder.
Just before heading down that road you’ll see a huddle of houses called Pralong, home to a couple of bijou hotel-restaurants that make convenient bases for walkers. Try woodsy Val des Dix (027 281 12 13; www.val-des-dix.ch, in French; r per person Sfr60), which has spotless, timber-lined rooms and a snug restaurant (mains Sfr15 to Sfr38) for gorging on croÛte au fromage (Alpine cheese on toast). You can rent snowshoes or cross-country skis here in winter.
From the dam base, it’s a 45-minute hike or a speedy cable car (adult/child return Sfr9/4.50; 9.30am-12.20pm & 1.15-6.20pm) ride to the top. Framed by snow-dusted crags, the milky green waters abruptly vanish like a giant infinity pool. Collecting the meltwater of 35 glaciers, weighing 15 million tonnes and supplying a fifth of Switzerland’s energy, the dam impresses with both its scale and statistics. Its sheer magnitude prompts little gasps and comments along the lines of ‘what if it burst?’ Fear not, this is Switzerland.
Hikers can do a circuit of the lake or cross over into the next valley and make for Arolla, a six-hour trek for the fit.
Val d’Hérens & Val d’Arolla
Just like neighbouring Val d’Hérémence, these thickly wooded valleys hide many peculiarities and pastures mown by silky black Hérens cattle. The road wriggles up from Sion through Vex and then Euseigne. Before reaching the latter, the road ducks under the wondrous Gaudí-esque rock pinnacles Pyramides d’Euseigne. Nicknamed the cheminées des fées (fairy chimneys), these needle-thin, boulder-topped spires have been eroded by glaciers into their idiosyncratic forms over millennia.
Edging 8km further south is the valley’s main town, Evolène, where you’ll find most of the valley’s accommodation and restaurants. Popular among walkers and cyclists, Hôtel Arzinol (021 283 16 65; www.hotel-arzinol.ch; s/d Sfr60/120) offers cheerful rooms in a timber chalet. On winter nights you can snuggle by the fire in the lounge.
Another 5km and you reach the deeply traditional hamlet of Les Haudères. Here the road forks. To the left, one leads 7km up to another pretty mountain settlement, Ferpècle, the end of the road and the start of some mountain hiking in the shadow of the pearly white tooth of Dent Blanche (4356m).
The other road veers right, rising steeply onto a wooded ridge before dropping down into another remote valley, the Val d’Arolla. After 11km you roll into a modest ski resort. To the east you can decipher Dent Blanche and to the southwest the glaciated Pigne d’Arolla (3796m), one of half a dozen 3600m-plus peaks that encircle Arolla. The village is a stop on the classic multi-day Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt. A seasonal dump of snow makes for crowd-free downhill and cross-country skiing in winter.
Set in gardens thick with larch trees, the stone lodge Grand Hotel & Kurhaus (027 283 70 00; www.kurhaus.arolla.com; r per person Sfr71-92; closed btwn seasons) stands in blissful isolation a couple of kilometres beyond Arolla and has been in business since 1896. Cheaper rooms come without bathroom.
Four to seven daily buses from Sion run up the valley to Evolène (Sfr13.80, 45 minutes) and some roll on to Arolla (change at Les Haudères, Sfr20.60, 1½ hours), which is 40km from Sion.
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SIERRE
pop 15,400 / elevation 581m
One of Switzerland’s sunniest towns, Sierre is where French-speaking residents say (rather tipsily) bonjour to their German-speaking neighbours. Indeed there’s nothing like a glass of the local Pinot noir to loosen linguistic boundaries in the château-dotted vines rising above the town centre.
The tourist office (027 455 85 35; www.sierre-salgesch.ch; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) is in the train station. Pick up the guide on local vineyards and walks called Promenade des Châteaux.
Sights & Activities
The big draw is 17th-century manor Château de Villa (027 455 18 96; www.chateaudevilla.ch; Rue Ste-Catherine 4), a 20-minute uphill trudge from the train station along Ave du Marché, leading through the older part of town and past postage stamp-sized vineyards. The turreted château houses the Musée du Vin (2-5pm Tue-Fri Apr-Nov), displaying presses and wine-related curios. It was closed for renovation at the time of research, but should reopen in late 2009.
Wine lovers can sample local tipples at the Oenothèque (wine store; 10.30am-1pm & 4.30-8.30pm), whose cellar bulges with 500 different bottles. If you’d rather enjoy a glass over Valaisan specialities, visit the restaurant at Château de Ville (see below).
CLOSE COW ENCOUNTERS
A 10-minute walk, partly past vineyards, from the Château de Villa is the Château Mercier, set with a series of other villas, an orangery and former stables in a pretty park. It’s used for receptions and events, but you can wander the grounds any time.
Sleeping & Eating
Bois de Finges (027 455 02 84; www.tiscover.ch/camping-bois-de-finges; sites per adult/child/tent/car & tent Sfr7.20/3.60/11.50/18.50; late Apr-Sep; ) Set in protected pine woodland near the Rhône, this back-to-nature campsite is east of the centre. It’s brilliant for families with a playground and heated outdoor pool.
Hôtel Terminus (027 455 13 51; www.hotel-terminus.ch; Rue du Bourg 1; s/d Sfr120/190; 
) Recently transformed into one of the region’s top addresses, this is a gourmet mecca with snazzy digs. Pared-down chic describes the contemporary rooms with plasma TVs and wi-fi. In the smart restaurant (tasting menus Sfr140 to Sfr210, open Tuesday to Saturday), Didier de Courten has been awarded two Michelin stars for cuisine that allows the freshness and flavour of each ingredient to shine through.
Le Thaï (027 456 84 56; mains Sfr12-16; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) For a cheap Thai feed, pop into this hole-in-the-wall snack bar. The coconut-infused curries, tom yam and chilli beef are authentically spicy.
Château de Villa (027 455 18 96; www.chateaudevilla.ch; Rue Ste-Catherine 4; Raclette Sfr31) All turreted towers and centuries-old beams, this château rolls out a Raclette feast with five types of cheese, washed down with full-bodied local wines.
Getting There & Away
Around two trains an hour stop at Sierre on the Geneva–Brig route. The town is the leaping-off point for Crans-Montana; a red SMC shuttle bus (navette; free) from outside the station runs to the nearby funicular station for Montana (Sfr11.80, 20 minutes).
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SALGESCH
pop 1345 / elevation 540m
As dreamy as a Turner watercolour in the golden autumn light, the wine-growing hamlet of Salgesch produced the first-ever Swiss grand cru in 1988. Blessed with sunshine and chalky soil, Salgesch yields spicy Pinot Noirs, fruity dôles and mineral Fendants. Many cellars open their doors for tastings. If your passion for wine goes beyond drinking it, you can even help a local wine grower tend vines for the day from April to October (see the website www.salgesch.ch for details).
A scenic trail leads from Château de Villa in Sierre through vineyards to Salgesch, where the gabled Weinmuseum (027 456 45 25; adult/student & senior Sfr5/4; 2-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Nov) turns the spotlight on wine growing in the region.
If you’ve ever dreamed of sleeping in a wine barrel or press, make for the quirky Hotel Arkanum (027 451 21 00; www.hotelarkanum.ch, s/d Sfr115/180), where each of the beamed rooms has a different wine-related theme. The restaurant (mains Sfr18 to Sfr38) serves delicious Valaisan specialities and Salgesch wines. Trains run hourly to Salgesch from Sierre (Sfr3, three minutes).
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CRANS-MONTANA
pop 7000 / elevation 1500m
Crans-Montana has been on the map ever since Dr Théodore Stéphani took a lungful of crisp Alpine air in 1896 and declared it splendid for his tuberculosis patients. Full of sparkling cheer in winter, the twin resort is now the much-loved haunt of luminaries like Roger Moore and nouveaux-riches Russians.
DAMIAN CINA
But there’s more to Crans-Montana than Prada and posing. The skiing is intermediate paradise, with cruising on sunny slopes and 360-degree vistas reaching from the Matterhorn to Mont Blanc, which makes it a favourite for hosting downhill championships. In summer, golfers practise their swing on an 18-hole course designed by Seve Ballesteros.
Orientation & Information
The modern, sprawling resort is set along a string of lakes. The tourist office (027 485 04 04; www.crans-montana.ch; 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Sun Dec-Apr & mid-Jun-Aug, 8.30am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat rest of the year) has branches on Rue Centrale in Crans and Ave de la Gare in Montana.
Activities
Almost exclusively south-facing, the ski area comprises 160km of slopes and 50km of cross-country trails. On Friday nights, 4km of slopes are floodlit. Boarders should check out the quarter-pipes and rails at Aminona terrain park. Crans-Montana day ski passes cost Sfr63/54/38 per adult/youth/child. For about 20% more you can include the Plaine-Morte Glacier (3000m). There’s plenty to amuse non-skiers and families, such as snowshoeing, winter walking and a 6km toboggan run.
Crans-Montana golf courses include nine and 18 holes. Prices range from Sfr40 to Sfr80. Contact the golf club (027 485 97 97; www.golfcrans.ch; May-Oct). The resort hosts the Omega European Masters in September.
Adrenatur (027 480 10 10; www.adrenatur.ch) packs in adventure, offering rafting (Sfr80), canyoning (Sfr160) and zip-line thrills in the Fun Forest (Sfr30).
Worthwhile walks include the vertigo-inducing 3½-hour hike to Bisse du Ro and an eight-hour trudge from Plaine-Morte Glacier down to Chermignon-d’en-Bas. A basic walking map is available for Sfr5 at the tourist office.
The region boasts 135km of first-rate mountain biking terrain. Downhill freaks are catered for with marked trails and a bike park at Crans Cry d’Er cable car base station, where 16 obstacles are graded according to difficulty. Crans Mountain (027 480 30 30; www.crans-mountain.ch; Rue Centrale 15; 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, closed Thu) rents top-of-the-range wheels.
Sleeping & Eating
You can book online through the resort website (www.crans-montana.ch). The tourist office hands out a list of apartments and chalets.
Auberge du Petit Paradis (027 481 21 48; www.petit-paradis.com; s/d Sfr80/150; ) Nestled below Crans in the hamlet of Bluche, this rustic family-run retreat offers brilliant value. The cosy pine-panelled rooms have balconies with mountain views.
La Diligence (027 485 99 85; www.ladiligence.ch; Rte de la Combaz; s/d 125/175; ) Backed by forest, this serene and inviting chalet, 1km east of Montana, has well-kept rooms with either balconies or terraces.
Hostellerie du Pas de l’Ours (027 485 93 33; www.pasdelours.ch; Rue du Pas de l’Ours; ste Sfr600-1650; ) This character-filled timber-and-stone mountain hideaway is fairy-tale stuff. A roaring fire and web-like vaulting in the lobby bar set the tone. The rest meets initial expectations: nine suites with whirlpools and fireplaces, an outdoor pool framed by manicured lawns, a spa and a restaurant (tasting menus Sfr65 to Sfr175) where Michelin-starred chef Franck Reynaud creates Provençal taste sensations. All at a price, of course.
Le Plaza (027 481 20 83; Rue Centrale; tapas Sfr6-20, mains Sfr20-50; 7.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat & Sun) As quirky as it gets in Crans, this lounge reveals a razor-sharp eye for detail – note the bold cow paintings and chairs draped with Swiss army blankets. Electro-jazz plays at the bar, where you can sip wines and graze on garlicky chorizo and inventive salads.
Le Pavillon (027 481 24 69; Rte de Rawyl; mains Sfr29-48; daily high season, Wed-Mon low season) With a sunny terrace overlooking Lac Grenon, this old-world restaurant attracts in-the-know locals. Eat whatever is fresh that day, be it salmon or Zürich-style veal with rösti. It’s halfway between Crans and Montana (bus stop Pavillon).
Getting There & Away
Click here for information on getting to Crans-Montana. Free shuttles move around theresort area.
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VAL D’ANNIVIERS
Brushed with pine and larch, scattered with dark timber chalets and postcard villages and set against glistening 4000m peaks, this strikingly beautiful, little-explored valley beckons skiers eager to slalom away from the crowds for fresh powder and hikers seeking big nature.
The road south from Sierre corkscrews precipitously past postage-stamp orchards and vineyards, arriving after 13km in the medieval village of Vissoie, a valley crossroads for five ski stations (www.sierre-anniviers.ch). You can get a ski pass for the whole area (adult/child/student Sfr47/28/40), which totals 220km of ski runs. About 11km along a narrow road winding back north towards Sierre is Vercorin (027 455 58 55; www.vercorin.ch), geared up for families with gentle skiing on 35km of pistes and a handful of places to stay and eat. It’s also accessible direct from Sierre via Chippis. On a one-hour walk south to the wildlife-rich Val de Réchy, it’s often possible to spot sizeable groups of deer in September.
Closer and more enticing for skiers are the combined villages of St Luc (027 475 14 12; www.saint-luc.ch) and Chandolin (027 475 18 38; www.chandolin.ch), with 75km of broad, sunny runs, a half-pipe for boarders and fairy-tale panoramas. St Luc is 4km east of Vissoie, up a series of switchbacks, and Chandolin another 4km north. The latter is the more attractive of the two, a huddle of timber houses hanging on for dear life to steep slopes at around 2000m. While here, visit Espace Ella Maillart (admission free; 10am-6pm Wed-Sun), dedicated to the remarkable Swiss adventurer who lived in Chandolin when she wasn’t exploring remote Afghanistan and Tibet, or winning ski races and regattas. Solar system models punctuate the Chemin des Planètes (Planets Trail), an uphill amble from Tignousa (above St Luc) to the Weisshorn Hotel (027 475 11 06; www.weisshorn.ch; s/d with half-board Sfr140/275; closed btwn seasons). Sitting at 2337m, the grand 19th-century hotel is accessible on foot or by mountain bike only (or on skis in winter, when luggage is transported for you from St Luc).
Back down in Vissoies you could continue to bucolic Zinal (027 475 13 70; www.zinal.ch), via the hamlet of Ayer, for 70km of fine skiing in the shadow of 4000m giants like Weisshorn, Zinal Rothorn and tooth-like Dent Blanche.
Prettier still is storybook Grimentz (027 476 20 01; www.bendolla.ch), where Valaisan granaries built on stilts (originally to keep thieving mice out!) and burnt-timber, geranium-bedecked chalets huddle over narrow lanes. The village makes a charming base for walking or skiing. Hotel de Moiry (027 475 11 44; www.hoteldemoiry.ch; s/d with half-board Sfr136/232) has comfy digs with all the trappings of a warm mountain chalet. Eat heartily in the restaurant downstairs. Central Le Mélèze (027 475 12 87; www.lemeleze.ch; r per person Sfr51) shelters humble pine-panelled rooms and a barn-style restaurant.
The Skim road south along La Gougra stream to cobalt Lac de Moiry (2249m) is only open in summer. Another 3km brings you to a smaller dam, where the road peters out. Before you, the Glacier de Moiry sticks out its dirty white tongue, a 1½-hour hike away.
Up to eight postal buses a day run from Sierre to Vissoie for connections to Chandolin (Sfr14.80) via St Luc, Zinal (Sfr15.80) and Grimentz (Sfr13.80). All these trips take about one hour from Sierre. In summer three buses run the 20 minutes from Grimentz to Lac de Moiry (Sfr10.20).
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UPPER VALAIS
In a xylophone-to-gong transition, the soothing loveliness of vineyards in the west gives way to austere beauty in the east of Valais. Bijou villages of woodsy chalets stand in collective awe of the drum-roll setting of vertiginous ravines, spiky 4000m pinnacles and monstrous glaciers. The effervescent thermal waters of Leukerbad, the dazzling 23km Aletsch Glacier and the soaring pyramid of Matterhorn are natural icons that invite spontaneous applause.
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LEUK
pop 3460 / elevation 750m
Most people overlook Leuk in their hurry to reach Leukerbad and, oops, miss one of Valais’ best-kept secrets. Celts, Romans and Burgundians wore the cobbles smooth in this clifftop village. Stuck in a medieval time warp, the centre is small enough to explore on foot and drink in all the details. Narrow lanes twist past gurgling fountains, timber granaries and vine-clad manors. Architect Mario Botta has put his stamp on Romanesque Schloss Leuk, which has, over the centuries, been a bishop’s residence, torture chamber and the scene of witch trials. The main square, Hauptplatz, is home to a butcher, baker and a smattering of cafés.
Escapist fantasy Hotel Schloss (027 473 12 13; www.schlosshotel-leuk.ch; Leukerstrasse 14; s/d Sfr60/100) is humbler and more affordable than its stately exterior suggests, with simple and spotless wood-panelled rooms.
Leuk is on the main rail route from Lausanne to Brig, with half-hourly trains to Sierre (Sfr4, seven minutes) and Brig (Sfr10.80, 20 minutes).
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LEUKERBAD
pop 1565 / elevation 1411m
The road that zigzags up from Leuk past breathtakingly sheer chasms and wooded crags is a spectacular build-up to Leukerbad. Gazing up to an amphitheatre of towering rock turrets and canyon-like spires, Europe’s largest thermal spa resort is pure drama. Beauty-conscious Romans once took Leukerbad’s steamy thermal waters, where today visitors soak after clambering up the Gemmi Pass, braving Switzerland’s longest via ferrata or carving the powder on Torrenthorn.
Orientation & Information
Leukerbad is 14km north of Leuk. The tourist office (027 472 71 71; www.leukerbad.ch; 9am-noon & 1.15-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun Jul-Nov & Dec-Apr, 9am-noon & 1.15-5.30pm Mon-Sat rest of year) in the centre can advise on therapies. In the same complex you’ll find the town hall, post office, parking garage and bus station. Leukerbad is car-free by night.
Sights & Activities
The biggest of Leukerbad’s four public baths is Burgerbad (027 472 20 20; www.burgerbad.ch; Rathausstrasse; 3hr bath adult/student/child/under 8yr Sfr20/16/12/free; 8am-8pm), with indoor and outdoor tubs, whirlpools, massage jets, steam grottoes and waterslides.
Its posher rival is Lindner Alpentherme (027 472 10 10; www.alpentherme.ch; Dorfplatz; 3hr baths adult/child/under 6yr Sfr20/14/free, Roman-Irish bath with/without massage Sfr74/54, sauna village Sfr19; baths 8am-8pm, to 10pm Fri, Roman-Irish bath & sauna village 10am-8pm), where those who dare to bare can try the Roman–Irish bath – two hours of blissful bathing, mud scrubs and soapy rubs. Otherwise, you can book treatments like underwater massages and wildflower wraps, or drift in 40°C thermal waters. The latest attraction is a Valaisan sauna village complete with mill, ice-cold stream and herbal steam rooms.
A cable car ascends the sheer mountain ridge to Gemmi Pass (2350m), a fantastic area for hiking. The ride is Sfr19/28 one-way/return, or a steep two-hour climb. For more of a challenge, traverse the pass on an eight-hour trek to Kandersteg. A gentler option is the so-called thermal canyon walk through a gorge that emerges at a cascading waterfall. Surefooted thrill-seekers can tackle Switzerland’s longest via ferrata to Dauberhorn (2941m), a dizzying eight-hour scramble up the cliffs. The mesmerising views of the Valaisan and Bernese Alps make the sweating and swearing worthwhile. Enquire about equipment rental and guides at the tourist office.
The skiing at Torrenthorn (2998m) is mostly easy and intermediate aside from one demanding run descending 1400m. One-day ski passes cost Sfr49/29/39 per adult/child/student and senior.
Sleeping & Eating
Weisses Rössli (027 470 33 77; www.rossli.net; Tuftstrasse 4; s/d Sfr60/120) Just off Dorfplatz, this belle-époque hotel is run with passione by Italian-speaking Paolo and his son Jean-Pierre. The old-style rooms with washbasins and teeny balconies are basic but comfy.
Hôtel de la Croix Fédérale (027 472 79 79; www.croix-federale.ch; Kirchstrasse 43; s/d Sfr95/180) The welcome is heartfelt at this geranium-strewn chalet. The all-pine, snug-as-a-bug rooms have downy duvets and flatscreen TVs. Downstairs Walliser Kanne (mains Sfr20 to Sfr35) has delicious wood-fired pizzas and occasionally upbeat yodelling sessions.
Lindner Hotel Leukerbad (027 472 10 00; www.lindnerhotels.ch; Dorfplatz; s/d Sfr229/459; ) Smack in the centre, this is quite a complex. The spacious rooms are starting to show their age, but are due for a makeover soon. Anyway, you won’t be awarding design points with direct access to the thermal baths and saunas. Grab your bathrobe and go.
Café Leukerbad (Rathausstrasse; light meals Sfr5-15.50; 11am-9pm) No airs, no graces, just locals contentedly slurping goulash soup and scoffing cakes is what you’ll find at this gem of a tea house. Expect old-fashioned service with a smile.
Getting There & Away
From Leuk an hourly postal bus goes to Leukerbad; last departure is 7.20pm (Sfr10.80, 30 to 35 minutes).
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LÖTSCHENTAL
A remote wilderness of gin-clear brooks, larch forests and glaciers, the Lötschental is an engaging and little-visited foretaste of the valleys that make up the Aletsch region, mostly accessible east of Brig (Click here). Most people who venture here make it only as far as Goppenstein, 9km north of the N9 road, to load their cars onto the half-hourly Lötschbergtunnel train that whisks them to Kandersteg in the Bernese Oberland (Sfr20 to Sfr25 per car, 15 minutes).
Beyond Goppenstein, the road swings northeast along an isolated valley through a string of quiet hamlets to Fafleralp (1787m), little more than a huddle of chalets. Hotel Fafleralp (027 939 14 51; www.fafleralp.ch, in German; r per person Sfr75-90) is a delightful rustic getaway with rooms made of local wood and not a telephone or TV in sight. Snow often cuts off the road in winter, but if you reserve they will pick up your luggage from Blatten and you will walk the 4km in snowshoes.
The icy finger of the Langgletscher glacier stretches down towards the village and is an easy 1½-hour hike from the main car park. Other walks into the mountains, creased by glacial waterfalls and largely bereft of any vegetation but a touch of Alpine grass, are also possible; see www.loetschental.ch (in German) for the low-down.
Cross-country skiing is popular and there’s even a little downhill action on the Lauchneralp at Wiler, 3km southwest of Blatten.
Up to 12 postal buses run from Goppenstein to Blatten, and on to Fafleralp (32 minutes) from June to October.
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VISP
pop 6670 / elevation 650m
All most visitors see of Visp is the station as they board a train to Zermatt or Saas Fee, yet the Old Town is attractive with its cobbled streets and shuttered windows. Wine lovers can work up a thirst on a 2½-hour uphill hike to Visperterminen, famously home to Europe’s highest vineyard at 1150m. An hourly bus (Sfr6.20) does the same trip in 20 minutes.
Should you get stuck here, there is a cluster of hotels near the train station. Trains run every hour or so to Zermatt (Sfr33, 65 minutes). An hourly postal bus runs to Saas Fee (Sfr15.80, 45 minutes).
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BRIGERBAD
Make a summertime splash at Brigerbad’s open-air thermal baths (027 946 46 88; www.brigerbad.ch; adult/child Sfr15/7; 9.30am-6pm early May-Sep), ranging from rapid rivers to curativegrotto‑style pools. The baths are halfway between Visp and Brig but more easily accessible from the former by postal buses (Sfr3, 10 minutes) that leave more or less hourly.
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ZERMATT
pop 5785 / elevation 1605m
You can almost sense the anticipation on the train from Täsch: couples gaze wistfully out of the window, kids fidget and stuff in Toblerone, folk rummage for their cameras. And then, as they arrive in Zermatt, all give little whoops of joy at the pop-up book effect of one-of-a-kind Matterhorn (4478m). Trigonometry at its finest, topographic perfection, a bloody beautiful mountain – call it what you will, Matterhorn is hypnotic. Like a shark’s fin it rises above the town, like an egotistical celebrity it squeezes into every snapshot, like a diva it has moods swinging from pretty and pink to dark and mysterious.
Since the mid-19th century, Zermatt has starred among Switzerland’s glitziest resorts. Today it attracts intrepid mountaineers and hikers, skiers who cruise at snail’s pace spellbound by the scenery, and style-conscious darlings flashing designer togs in the lounge bars. But all are smitten with Matterhorn, an unfathomable monolith you can’t quite stop looking at.
Information
Go online for free or bring your laptop for wi-fi at Papperla Pub (p165;027 967 40 40; www.papperlapub.ch). The tourist office (027 966 81 00; www.zermatt.ch; Bahnhofplatz 5; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm Sun mid-Jun-Sep, 8.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-noon & 4-6pm Sun rest of year) has stacks of brochures on the area.
Sights
Views from the cable cars and gondolas are uniformly breathtaking, especially from the cogwheel train to 3090m Gornergrat (one-way Sfr38), which takes 35 to 45 minutes with two to three departures per hour. Sit on the right-hand side to gawp at Matterhorn. Alternatively, you can hike from Zermatt to Gornergrat in around five hours.
FEBRUARY’S FREAKY MONSTERS
Hinterdorf is the oldest corner of the village, crammed with archetypal Valaisan chalets and timber storage barns with stone discs and stilts to keep out the rats. It’s a world away from the flashy boutiques on Bahnhofstrasse.
The cemetery is a sobering experience for any would-be mountaineer, as numerous monuments tell of deaths on Monte Rosa, Breithorn and Matterhorn.
The crystalline, state-of-the-art Matterhorn Museum (027 967 41 00; www.matterhornmuseum.ch; Kirchplatz; adult/student/child/under 10yr Sfr10/8/5/free; 11am-6pm Dec-Sep, 2-6pm Oct, closed Nov) centres on an authentically recreated Valaisan village. It provides a fascinating insight into mountaineering, the dawn of tourism and the lives Matterhorn has claimed. Must-sees include Roosevelt’s letters, Raymond Lambert’s reindeer-skin boots (made to measure after his toes were amputated) and the infamous rope that broke in 1865 and turned the first ascent of Matterhorn into a tragedy.
Activities
Zermatt is cruising heaven, with mostly long, scenic red runs, plus a smattering of blues for ski virgins and knuckle-whitening blacks for experts. The three main skiing areas are Rothorn, Stockhorn and Klein Matterhorn. In all, there are 300km of ski runs and free buses between areas. February to April is peak time. Snow can be sketchy in early summer but lifts are significantly quieter. Snowboarders make for Klein Matterhorn’s freestyle park and half-pipe, while mogul fans enjoy a bumpy glide on Stockhorn.
Klein Matterhorn is topped by Europe’s highest cable-car station (3820m), providing access to the highest skiing on the continent, Switzerland’s most extensive summer skiing (25km of runs) and deep powder at the Italian resort of Cervinia. Broad and exhilarating, the No 7 run down from the border is a must-ski. Don’t forget your passport. If the weather is fine, take the lift up to the summit of Klein Matterhorn (3883m) for top-of-the-beanstalk views over the Swiss Alps (from Mont Blanc to Aletschhorn) and deep into Italy.
A day pass for Zermatt (excluding Cervinia) costs Sfr71/36/65 per adult/child/senior and student and Sfr80/40/74 including Cervinia. From September to late November, budget skiers can save on weekend packages that involve testing the latest skis on a limited number of runs around Klein Matterhorn Glacier. Prices including breakfast, ski passes and test-ski rental vary from Sfr315 per person in a one-star hotel to Sfr439 in a four-star.
Zermatt lures hikers in summer with 400km of trails through some of the most incredible scenery in the Alps. For Matterhorn close-ups, the ultimate day trek is Höhenweg Höhbalmen. The tourist office website provides details on other great walks such as the 2¼ hour Matterhorn glacier trail and the four-hour Hörnli trail.
The Alpin Center (027 966 24 60; www.alpincenter-zermatt.ch; Bahnhofstrasse 58; 8.30am-noon & 3-7pm mid-Nov-Apr & Jul-Sep) houses the ski school and mountain guides office. They arrange guided climbs to major 4000ers, including Breithorn (Sfr165), Riffelhorn (Sfr257) and, for experts willing to acclimatise for a week, Matterhorn (Sfr998). Their program also covers multi-day hikes, glacier hikes to Gorner (Sfr120), snowshoeing (Sfr140) and ice climbing (Sfr175).
For a Tarzan-style adventure, head for the Forest Fun Park (027 968 10 10; adult/child/under 7yr Sfr31/21/15; 9am-6.30pm Apr-Nov), a gigantic above-the-treetops playground of zip-lines, platforms, river traverses and bridges graded according to difficulty.
MAN OR MATTERHORN
Festivals & Events
Fun-loving freestylers do the Bump Bash (www.bumpbash.com), a mogul race around Triftji Glacier in April. In July, the super fit compete in the (literally) breathtaking Zermatt Marathon (www.zermatt-marathon.ch) from St Niklaus to Riffelberg. The Folkloreumzug (Folklore Parade) on 10 August brings Alpine music, merrymaking and feasting to Zermatt. In September, the Zermatt Festival welcomes world-famous chamber orchestras.
Sleeping
Zermatt has recently upped the ante in the slumber stakes with a flurry of new boutique hotels. Book ahead in winter, and bear in mind that nearly everywhere closes from May to mid-June and from October to mid-November.
Zermatt SYHA Hostel (027 967 23 20; Staldenweg 5; dm/d with half-board Sfr47.50/100; 7-10am & 4-10.30pm; ) Question: how many hostels have Matterhorn peeking through the window in the morning? Answer: one. And if that doesn’t convince you, the modern dorms, sunny terrace and first-rate facilities should.
Hotel Bahnhof (027 967 24 06; www.hotelbahnhof.com; Bahnhofstrasse; dm/s/d Sfr43/78/98; 8am-noon & 4-8pm) Opposite the station, these spruce budget digs have proper beds that are a godsend after scaling or schussing down mountains all day. There’s a lounge, a snazzy open-plan kitchen and free wi-fi.
Berggasthaus Trift (079 408 70 20; dm/d with half-board Sfr63/150 Jul-Sep) It’s a long trudge up to this 2337m-high mountain hut but the hike is outstanding. At the foot of Triftgletscher, this Alpine haven is run by Hugo (a whiz on the alphorn) and Fabienne. The rooms are cosy and the views – ah the views! – to the frosted 4000ers mesmeric. Kick back on the terrace for treats like home-cured beef and oven-warm apple tart. Have your camera handy as the sun sets over Monte Rosa.
Kulmhotel Gornergrat (027 966 64 00; Gornergrat; s/d180/310) Above the clouds at 3000m, Switzerland’s highest hotel appeals to those who like the atmosphere and views of an Alpine hut but shiver at the thought of thin mattresses and icy water. The sleek rooms with downy duvets afford views to Monte Rosa or Matterhorn. When the crowds leave at dusk, savour the solitude and panoramas of glowing 4000m peaks.
Hotel Julen (027 966 76 00; www.julen.com; Riedstrasse 2; s/d with half-board Sfr265/530; ) Part of the Swiss romantic hotel clan, Julen is woodcutter’s cottage meets Parisian boudoir – think ornately carved ceilings, red velvet and thick sheepskins. The pine-filled rooms are little love nests with Christmassy red-and-green fabrics and mountain views. There’s also a spa and restaurant.
Eating
Stefanie’s Crêperie (079 772 99 66, Bahnhofstrasse 60; snacks Sfr5-16; 11am-midnight) Such perfectly thin, light crêpes are worth the wait. Through the hatch you’ll spy Stefanie the crêpe fairy, working her magic with a frying pan. Dig into varieties with chocolate or homemade preserves.
Bayard Metzgerei (027 967 22 66; Bahnhofstrasse 9; sausages around Sfr6; noon-6.30pm Jul-Sep, 4-6.30pm Dec-Mar) Follow your nose to this butcher’s grill for to-go bratwurst, chicken and other carnivorous bites.
Pizza Roma (027 967 32 29; Riedstrasse 20; mains Sfr16-26; dinner) For crisp wood-oven pizza, hearty pasta dishes and the silkiest tiramisu this side of Bellinzona, head to this low-slung haunt.
Pipe (079 758 53 24; Kirchstrasse 38; mains Sfr27-39; dinner) This jammin’ Afro-Asian den promises to ‘spice up your life’. Your tastebuds will do somersaults over hot and fruity springbok curry or apricot-glazed Karoo lamb paired with a liquoricey Shiraz. Surfboards on the ceiling, tribal masks on the wall and elbow-to-elbow tables create an original, intimate vibe.
Whymper Stube (027 967 22 96; Bahnhofstrasse 80; mains Sfr23-42) Named after intrepid explorer Edward Whymper, who made the first ascent of Matterhorn in 1865, this Alpine classic serves the tastiest fondue in Zermatt, including variations with pears and gorgonzola. The mantra: gorge today, climb tomorrow.
Restaurant Stockhorn (027 967 17 47; Riedstrasse 11; mains Sfr35-40; dinner) A snug chalet to make you feel all warm and fuzzy, Stockhorn does just-right fondues, Raclettes and wood-fired meat specialities. The fall-off-the-bone lamb is divine.
Drinking
Still fizzing with energy after schussing down the slopes? Zermatt pulses in party-mad après-ski huts and suave lounge bars. Most close (and some melt) in low season.
Papperla Pub (027 967 40 40; Steinmattstrasse 34; 11am-11.30pm) Rammed with sloshed skiers in winter, this pub blends pulsating music with lethal Jägermeister bombs and good vibes. Squeeze in, slam shots, then shuffle downstairs to Schneewittchen club (open to 4am) for more of the same.
Hennu Stall (027 966 35 10; Klein Matterhorn; 2-7pm) Last one down to this snow-bound ‘chicken run’ is a rotten egg. Hennu is the wildest après-ski shack on Klein Matterhorn. Order a caramel vodka and take your ski boots grooving to live music on the terrace. A metre-long ‘ski’ of shots will make you cluck all the way down to Zermatt.
Igloo Bar (Gornergrat; www.iglu-dorf.ch; 10pm-4pm) Subzero sippers make for this igloo bar to guzzle glühwein amid the ice sculptures, sunbathe and stare wide-mouthed at Matterhorn. It’s on the run from Gornergrat to Riffelberg.
Z’alt Hischi (027 967 42 62; Hinterdorfstrasse 44; 9pm-2am) Finding this watering hole, tucked away in Zermatt’s most charming street, is a challenge best left to the sober. It’s a warm, woody affair, serving generous measures and local gossip.
Broken Bar Disco (027 967 19 31; Bahnhofstrasse 41; 10pm-4am) In Hotel Post’s vaulted cellar, you can jive on a wine barrel to ’80s cheese and Europop till 4am.
Vernissage Bar (027 967 66 36; Hofmattstrasse 4; 5pm-2am) The ultimate après-ski antithesis, Vernissage exudes grown-up sophistication. Local artist Heinz Julen has created a theatrical space with flowing velvet drapes, film-reel chandeliers and candlelit booths. Catch an exhibition, watch a Bond movie in the decadent cinema, then practice your 007 martini pose in the lounge bar.
Getting There & Away
CAR
Zermatt is car-free. Dinky electric vehicles are used to transport goods and serve as taxis around town. Drivers have to leave their vehicles in one of the garages or the open-air car park in Täsch (Sfr13.50 per day) and take the train (Sfr7.60, 12 minutes) into Zermatt.
TRAIN
Trains depart roughly every 20 minutes from Brig (Sfr35, 1½ hours), stopping at Visp en route. Zermatt is also the starting point of the Glacier Express to Graubünden, one of the most spectacular train rides in the world.
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SAAS FEE
pop 1665 / elevation 1800m
Hemmed in by a menacing grey amphitheatre of 13 implacable peaks over 4000m and backed by the threatening tongues of nine glaciers, little Saas Fee looks positively feeble in the revealing light of summer. Until 1951, only a mule trail led to this isolated outpost and locals scraped a living from farming. Although the village centre has kept its rustic feel, dotted with timber chalets and barns on stilts, the rest is largely a modern creation. The resort is less charming than neighbouring Zermatt, but equally full of twinkling cheer in the ski season.
Orientation & Information
Saas Fee is a sprawling resort. The village centre and ski lifts are southwest of the bus station.
The tourist office (027 958 18 58; www.saas-fee.ch; 8.30am-noon & 2-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon & 3-5pm Sun) is opposite the post office and bus station. Opening hours are slightly shorter in shoulder seasons. The local Guest Card offers various discounts.
Sights & Activities
Saas Fee’s slopes are snow-sure, with most skiing taking place above 2500m and the glacier acting like a deep freeze. The 140km of groomed, scenic pistes are more suited to beginners and intermediates, though experts willing to take a guide to go off-piste will find bottomless powder. Ski-mountaineering is possible along the famous Haute Route to Chamonix. The resort is a snowboarding mecca and regularly hosts world championships. Boarders gravitate towards the kickers, half-pipe and chill-out zone at Mittelallalin freestyle park. A lift pass costs Sfr65/36 per adult/child for one day and Sfr370/205 for one week.
Non-skiers can stomp along 20km of marked winter footpaths or hurtle down Hannig on a toboggan. For a twilight downhill dash through glittering woodlands, check out night sledding every Tuesday and Thursday from 6pm to 9pm. Other winter activities include ice climbing, husky sledding and air boarding.
The tourist office has a map of 350km of summer hiking trails in the Saas Valley. There are gentle strolls along the fast-flowing Vispa and through the forest to Saas-Almagell. Worthwhile high-level routes include a five-hour hike to Gspon, affording jaw-dropping mountain vistas, and the 3½-hour walk from Mattmark to Macugnaga in Italy. Kids in tow? Take them to Spielboden to feed and pet the tame marmots.
An underground funicular operates year-round to Mittelallalin (3500m), where you’ll find the world’s highest revolving restaurant, offering 360-degree views of the 4000m glacial giants. It gives access to Feegletscher, a centre for summer skiing (July and August) with 20km of runs above 2700m. Wrap up warm at the subzero Eispavillion (adult/child Sfr5/3), 10m below the ice surface. From Saas Fee to Mittelallalin by cable car then funicular costs Sfr69 return (children are half-price).
Sleeping
Ask the tourist office for a brochure listing good-value chalets and apartments. Most hotels and restaurants close in May and November.
Unique Hotel Dom (027 958 77 00; www.uniquedom.com; dm Sfr45-60; reception 8am-9pm winter, 9am-6pm summer) Young, hip and totally chilled, this is the go-to hostel if you want to snowboard and party till you crash. It’s full of dudes in baggy Gore-Tex who dig the Smartie-bright dorms with PlayStations and wi-fi, and the gigs downstairs in Popcorn. The restaurant is run by a tribe of ‘am I bovvered?’ teens who, frankly, would rather pound powder than pander to your whims.
Hotel Elite (027 958 60 60; www.elite-saas-fee.ch; s/d Sfr140/266) Cheery and family-run, this homely chalet has pine-panelled rooms with snowy white duvets, mountain-facing balconies and free wi-fi. There’s a kids’ play area.
Hotel Waldesruh (027 958 64 64; www.hotelwaldesruh.ch, in German; s/d Sfr164/308) Next to the forest and an ecstatic I’ll-be-first-in-the-queue hop from the ski lifts, this chalet is a find. The owners are affable and the old-style rooms comfy, with balconies overlooking the slopes. There’s a sauna, whirlpool and regular alphorn and glockenspiel playing performances.
Romantik Hotel Beau-Site (027 958 15 60; www.beausite.org; s/d Sfr230/405; ) Beau-Site receives glowing recommendations for its polished service and classically elegant rooms with antique furnishings. On wintry days, you’ll find it hard to drag yourself away from the fireplace in the bar and the spa’s steam baths, grotto-like pool and saunas.
Eating
Zur Mühle (027 957 26 76; mains Sfr15-30) Sheepskins, cow-print curtains and copper pans create a snug feel at this riverside restaurant. Rösti is the mainstay and comes in various guises, such as with ham, onions and cheese.
La Ferme (027 958 15 69; mains Sfr19-49; 9.30am-midnight) Dirndl-clad maidens bring traditional Valaisan specialities to the table at this barn-style restaurant, decked out with hops, cowbells and farming implements. Try tender lamb loin cooked in Alpine hay or fresh river trout.
Holzwurm (027 957 24 84; mains Sfr20-40; 3.30pm-1.30am winter, 8pm-1.30am summer) The laid-back ‘woodworm’ serves up live music, a laid-back atmosphere and super fonduechinoise and Raclette. It’s near the church in the village centre.
Fletschhorn (027 957 21 31; www.fletschhorn.ch; tasting menu Sfr175-205; 10am-midnight) Nestled in a forest glade with dramatic mountain views, this Michelin-starred restaurant is one of Switzerland’s top addresses. Chef Markus Neff interprets French cuisine with finesse, with signatures such as crispy, rosemary-infused suckling pig and roast pigeon with black truffles. The sommelier will help you choose a bottle of wine from the 30,000 on the list. Call ahead and staff will pick you up.
Drinking
About a dozen lively après-ski bars vie for attention on the main drag.
Popcorn Bar (027 958 19 14; 8am-4am) Work on that snow-goggle tan, rehearse your grungy boarder pose and check out the scene at this snowboard shop-cum-après-ski dive. By late afternoon, Popcorn is fit to burst with rowdy riders united in their love of Jägermeister and hip-hop.
Nesti’s Ski Bar (027 957 42 11; 3.30am-2am) Always packed, Nesti’s is a buzzy après-ski favourite. Stop by for a spiced glühwein or three.
Getting There & Away
Buses depart half-hourly from Brig (Sfr21, 1¼ hours) and Visp (Sfr15.80, 45 minutes). From Brig it’s marginally faster to get the train and change at Visp. You can transfer to/from Zermatt at Stalden Saas.
Saas Fee is car-free. Park at the entrance to the village, where the first 24 hours in winter costs Sfr16 (covered parking). It gets cheaper after the first day and if you use the Guest Card.
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BRIG
pop 11,900 / elevation 688m
Close to the Italian border and bisected by the Rhône and Saltina rivers, Brig has been an important crossroads since Roman times. Though often overlooked en route to Mont Blanc or Milan, it’s worth lingering to see the cobbled Stadtplatz, framed by alfresco cafés and candy-hued townhouses, and the fantastical baroque palace.
Orientation & Information
The centre is south of the Rhône and east of its tributary, the Saltina. The train station is on the 1st floor of the tourist office (027 921 60 30; www.brig-tourismus.ch; Bahnhofplatz 1; 8.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri). Postal buses leave from outside the train station. Directly ahead, Bahnhofstrasse leads to the town centre.
Sights
STOCKALPERSCHLOSS
Kaspar von Stockalper (1609–91), a shrewd businessman who dominated the Simplon Pass trade routes, built this whimsical palace and dubbed himself the ‘Great Stockalper’. Locals didn’t think he was so great and sent him packing to Italy. His palace (027 921 60 30; Alte Simplonstrasse 28; adult/child/under 7yr Sfr7/3/free; hourly 50min guided visit 9.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun May-Oct) remains with its baublelike onion domes and arcaded inner courtyard. It’s free to wander the main court (open 6am to 10pm April to October and 6am to 8pm November to March) and the baroque gardens with their quintessential parterres, fountains and clipped hedges.
Sleeping & Eating
When the weather warms, locals fill the cafés and restaurants on pedestrian-only Hauptplatz.
Schlosshotel (027 922 95 95; Am Schlosspark; www.schlosshotel.ch; s Sfr85-98, d Sfr120-160; ) So close to the palace you can almost polish the domes, this is the best choice in Brig, with terrific views and a cheery welcome. Many of the light, spacious rooms have balconies facing Stockalperschloss. There’s free internet in the lounge.
Hotel de Londres (027 922 93 93; www.hotel-delondres.ch; Bahnhofstrasse 17; s/d Sfr85/140) Sure the decor is a blast from the ’70s, but this hotel’s friendly service, inviting atmosphere and prime location are timeless. It’s a five-minute walk from the train station on the main square.
Zum Eidgenossen (027 923 92 07; Zum Eidgenossen; mains Sfr16-36; Wed-Mon) Travel your tastebuds with adventurous grill specialities such as wild boar and bison in this warm, Valaisan mountain chalet-style setting.
Getting There & Away
Brig is on the Glacier Express line from Zermatt to St Moritz and the main line between Italy (Milan via Domodossola) and Geneva (Sfr57, two to 2¾ hours). Trains from Brig also run to Locarno (Sfr51, 2½ hours) in Ticino, via Domodossola (take your passport).
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THE GOMS & ALETSCH GLACIER
Bidding Brig farewell, you enter another world. As you approach the source of the mighty Rhône and gain altitude, the deep valley narrows and the verdure of pine-clad mountainsides and south-facing vineyards that defines the west of the canton switches to rugged wilderness. Known as the Goms, a string of bucolic villages (one of the first invitingly named Bitsch) of geranium-bedecked timber chalets and onion-domed churches stretches northeast, waiting to be counted off like rosary beads. On either side of the turquoise torrent that is the Rhône stretch billiard table-green fields scattered with farmhouses.
Aletsch Glacier
Go behind the scenes in the Goms for real Alpine drama. Out of view from the valley floor lies the 23km Aletsch Glacier (Aletschgletscher), a seemingly never-ending swirl of deeply crevassed ice that slices past thundering falls and jagged spires of rock that stab at the sky. The longest glacier in the Alps and a Unesco World Heritage site, it stretches from Jungfrau in the Bernese Oberland to a plateau above the Rhône. Its southern expanse is fringed by the 2000m Aletschwald, one of Europe’s highest pine forests.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Three car-free resorts border the southern rim of the glacier, separated from the forest by a ridge of hills. The westernmost is Riederalp (027 928 60 50; www.riederalp.ch), followed by Bettmeralp (027 928 60 60; www.bettmeralp.ch) and Fiescheralp (027 970 10 70; www.goms.ch), all at an altitude of just under 2000m. Each has a tourist office, as do the towns in the valley floor from where cable cars depart.
ACTIVITIES
Most people get their first tantalising glimpse of Aletsch Glacier from Jungfraujoch, but this is the best place to visit it. If you do nothing else in the Goms, stop at Fiesch and take two cable cars (027 971 27 00; www.eggishorn.ch; adult/child return Sfr42.80/21.40; every 30 min 8.15am-6.15pm Jun-mid-Oct) up to Eggishorn (2927m). As you float up over the velvety fields and then, above the tree line, the stark olive, brown and grey Alpine landscape, nothing can prepare you for what awaits on exiting the gondola.
Streaming down in a broad curve around the Aletschhorn (4195m), the glacier looks like a frozen six-lane freeway. In the distance, to the north, rise the glistening summits of Jungfrau (4158m), Mönch (4109m), Eiger (3970m) and Finsteraarhorn (4274m). If you scamper up the loose and rocky rise, topped by an antenna, to the west of the cable car exit, you might spy Mont Blanc and Matterhorn in the distance.
While gawping at this wonder of nature, consider the statistics. The main glacier (the Grosser Aletschgletscher) covered 163 sq km in 1856, 128 sq km in 1973 and just 85 sq km today. In a couple of generations it may well be gone.
There’s no better way to appreciate the drop-dead gorgeous scenery of the Aletsch region than by hitting the trail in summer. One of Switzerland’s finest walks is the Aletsch Glacier hike Click here from Fiescheralp to Bettmeralp. An easier option is to take the cable car up to the glacier and then walk back down to Fiescheralp, the midway station. For an adrenalin rush, tackle the dizzying vie ferrate at Eggishorn (2½ hours) and Aletsch (4 hours).
In winter, there is great skiing in the three hamlets, each with accommodation and eating options. Family-friendly Bettmeralp is the handiest and prettiest. Alternatively, stay in one of the three access towns in the Rhône valley, Mörel, Betten and Fiesch. In the Aletsch region there are 99km of ski runs and 35 lifts. The skiing is mostly intermediate or easy. Ski passes cost Sfr50/25 per adult/child per day, or Sfr56/28, including the lifts up from the valley towns.
PULVERISING COW PATS
Paragliders and hang-gliders take advantage of the excellent thermals and grandiose glacier views at Fiescheralp. To join them, contact Good Flight (027 971 20 85; www.good-flight.ch),offering tandem flights from Sfr120.
SLEEPING & EATING
Tourist offices provide a list of chalets and apartments. Expect discounts of up to 50% in summer on the high-season rates given below.
Camping Eggishorn (027 971 03 16; Fiesch; sites per adult/child/tent/car Sfr13/6/12/3; year-round; ) On the banks of a babbling stream, this pleasantly green site’s top-notch facilities include a restaurant, heated outdoor pool and playground. Just 10 minutes’ stroll from the cable car to Eggishorn, it’s a peaceful spot to pitch a tent.
Hotel Eggishorn (027 971 14 44; www.hotel-eggishorn.ch; dm Sfr35-45, d Sfr130-200) Whether you opt for the no-frills dorms or woody rooms drenched with natural light, you share the same views to the frosted peaks of Matterhorn and Weisshorn. The restaurant (mains Sfr15 to Sfr35) dishes up Valaisan fare and the sunny terrace breathtaking panoramas. Fiescheralp is near Eggishorn cable car, so well placed for the skier or hiker eager to get up to the glacier.
Hotel Alpina (027 927 24 24; www.alpinafiescheralp.ch, in German; s/d Sfr135/250; ) Another great choice at Fiescheralp, the Alpina has light, pine-filled rooms with balconies. Unwind in the sauna and whirlpool or over mulled wine in the tepee bar. The restaurant (mains Sfr15 to Sfr25) serves delicious rösti with salmon and horseradish.
Bettmerhof (027 928 62 10; www.bettmerhof.ch; s/d with half-board Sfr162/315; ) Near the lifts in Bettmeralp, this chalet is brilliant for skiers itching to be first on the slopes. You’ll sleep like a babe in the snug pine-panelled rooms. Fork out an extra Sfr10 and you’ll get a view of Matterhorn. There’s a restaurant, spa and playroom.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The base stations for these resorts are on the train route between Brig and Andermatt. Cable-car departures are linked to the train arrivals. Mörel to Riederalp costs Sfr9 each way, the same as from Betten up to Bettmeralp. Some versions of the ski pass include these cable cars.
From Fiesch to the Furka Pass
The trail out of Valais weaves northeast from Fiesch, with more postcard-cute villages along the way, including Niederwald, where Cäsar Ritz (1850–1918), founder of the luxury hotel chain, was born and is now buried. Of them all, Münster is easily the most charming. Tightly packed chalets drop down the hill from its bright white church. A brook babbles contentedly through the village heart, and weary travellers delight in the Hotel Croix d’Or et Poste (027 974 15 15; www.hotel-postmuenster.ch; s/d Sfr100/200), the extraordinarily flower-laden hotel on a tiny square in the main road. Goethe slept in here in 1779. The traditional rooms are comfy but with a granny’s love of pastels, florals and frilly doilies.
At Ulrichen you must make a decision. You can turn southeast down a narrow road that twists its way south out of the Valais and into the mountains that separate the canton from Ticino. Impressively barren country that at times recalls the stark beauty of the Scottish Highlands and Spanish Pyrenees leads you to the Nufenen Pass (Passo di Novena) at 2478m, probably the most remote gateway into Switzerland’s Italian canton. Dropping down the other side, the first major town is Airolo, 24km east of the pass along the quiet, almost gloomy Val Bedretto.
Should you decide to push on east of Ulrichen, you will head slowly upwards towards Gletsch. From here the mighty Grimsel Pass, with its spectacular views west over several lakes in Bern canton and eastern Valais, lies a short, steep drive north, but it is often closed, even in summer.
Marking the cantonal frontier with Uri is the vertiginous Furka Pass (2431m), the run up to which offers superlative views over the fissured Rhône glacier to the north. Open in summer only, it is the gateway into southeast Switzerland. Car trains in Oberwald negotiate the trip underground when the pass is shut. The train surfaces at Realp near Andermatt.