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Ironically, the world’s largest urban national park is sometimes overlooked as a visitors’ destination. A former army base, the 1,491-acre (6030-hectare) Presidio encompasses shoreline, coastal bluffs, wooded hilltops, and prairie grasslands, and is the location of filmmaker George Lucas’s Digital Arts Center, restaurants and cafes, historic buildings, Baker Beach, 22 hiking trails, and two playgrounds.

Take the Ecology Trail, accessed through the Arguello Gate. It goes past the Inspiration Point overlook with panoramic bay views and the Presidio forest. A connecting trail brings you to Julius Kahn, arguably the city’s poshest playground, which will delight kids with its cool climbing structures. From there, connect to Lovers’ Lane, first used by Spanish soldiers and Franciscan missionaries.

When your muscles get weary, it is time to head to the Presidio’s spa. Located in a cavernous 13,000-sq-ft (1,208-sq-m) former army barracks, Senspa goes beyond the usual menu of massages, facials, and body treatments – you get the services of a ‘master aromatherapist’ and a wellness coach, plus body scrubs customized for your skin.

The Presidio; tel: 415-561-5300; www.presidio.gov; [map] D4

Senspa; 1161 Gorgas Avenue; tel: 415-441-1777; www.senspa.com; Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 9am–8pm; [map] D5

Burning Man

It would be remiss to cover San Francisco without mentioning Burning Man. The genesis of the annual Dionysian arts extravaganza that erupts in Black Rock Desert, Nevada, in early September was on the shores of the Presidio’s Baker Beach. On the summer solstice of 1986, Larry Harvey burned a wooden man in effigy as part of a purification ritual. This act sparked what would evolve into an international art movement and experiment in cooperative off-the-grid living with upwards of 66,000 participants.

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In a city of great walks, the 3.5-mile (5.6km) Golden Gate Promenade that hugs the bay is truly spectacular. Begin at the Marina Green, a lush expanse of lawn in front of the St Francis Yacht Club and a prime kite-flying locale.

Well-toned runners, skaters, and cyclists whizz by, and there is often a volleyball game being played on the green. Turn on Yacht Road past the harbor and walk to the end of the narrow jetty to reach the Wave Organ ([map] E5). This acoustic sculpture of 25 pipes resonates to the motion of waves, making subtle sounds best heard at low tide.

On to Crissy Field. A 100-acre site that once housed a military airstrip was restored to an environmental wonderland, with a wetlands preserve, a tidal marsh, pocket beaches, grassy bluffs, lagoons, and a habitat for herons, pelicans, and other native species.

Meander along and stop for hot chocolate and a bite at the cozy Warming Hut. The gift shop sells a selection of books and eco-friendly souvenirs like wallets made from recycled materials.

Once refreshed, press on to Fort Point, the formidable fortress below the Golden Gate Bridge, built at the onset of the Civil War. According to local lore, the fort is haunted. Those who are not easily spooked should take the candlelit tour, offered monthly in winter. Call 415-556-1693 for reservations.

Warming Hut; 983 Marine Drive; tel: 415-561-3042; daily 9am–5pm; [map] C5

Fort Point; end of Marine Drive; tel: 415-556-1693; www.nps.gov/fopo; Fri–Sun 10am–5pm; free; [map] C5

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The magnificent Golden Gate Bridge is the city’s most recognized and beloved icon, and certainly one of the most photographed bridges in the world. Finished in 1937, having cost $35 million, it stretches 1.75 miles (2.8km) from the northern edge of the Presidio to the southern tip of the Marin Headlands and is suspended 220ft (67m) above the mouth of the San Francisco Bay. The Golden Gate, painted not gold but “international orange,” is an engineering marvel and a stunning example of Art Deco design. Bike (or walk) across and experience the grandeur up close.

Use sunscreen and dress appropriately in layers and a jacket – if the wind picks up or fog rolls in, the temperature can drop drastically. You can rent bicycles at many shops in the city, but Blazing Saddles in Fisherman’s Wharf has easy access to the bike path that crosses the bridge, and bikes come equipped with maps. If you are planning to come back via the ferry (below), you can also purchase tickets here.

Cyclists cross the bridge on the west side, pedestrians on the east. Feel the wind in your face and take in breathtaking views as you cross this splendid landmark. Once on the Marin side, you can choose to veer left on Conzelman Road to the Headlands, or cross beneath the freeway toward Sausalito. Cycling through the wild, majestic beauty of the Marin Headlands, where rolling green hills give way to craggy cliffs that plunge down to the Pacific, is well worth the effort, but should only be attempted by experienced and fit cyclists.

Otherwise coast downhill to Sausalito or Tiburon. Stop for ice cream at Lappert’s (689 Bridgeway) in the chic but sweet Sausalito, lock your bike and poke around the shops and galleries. If you choose to stay for lunch, The Spinnaker has good seafood and unrivaled views of the waterfront. From here, press on for nine pleasant coastal miles along Richardson Bay. Your reward is delightful downtown Tiburon and lunch harborside on the sunny back patio of Sam’s Anchor Café.

From either town, you can pedal back to the bridge or board a ferry back to the city (with your bike). Be advised – it is a steep ride back to the bridge from Sausalito. The ferry option is the way to go for most, but be sure to check the ferry schedule.

Blazing Saddles; multiple locations on Fishermans Wharf; tel: 415-465-5387; www.blazingsaddles.com; daily 8am–8pm; [map] C4

The Spinnaker; 100 Spinnaker Drive, Sausalito; tel: 415-332-1500; www.thespinnaker.com; daily Br, L, & D

Sam’s Anchor Café; 27 Main Street, Tiburon; tel: 415-435-4527; www.samscafe.com; daily Br, L, & D

On your bike

It’s no surprise that forward-thinking San Francisco is a city that increasingly supports pedal power. Bike lanes have been established on many city streets, and Critical Mass, a monthly gathering of cyclists, takes over major downtown streets on the last Friday of every month – auto traffic be damned (www.sfcriticalmass.org). Bike shops like Freewheel (1920 Hayes Street) and Mojo (639A Divisadero Street) have garnered followings for their helpful staffs. And Bay Area Bike Share (www.bayareabikeshare.com) has put hundreds of bikes on the street for public use with membership.

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Clement Street is referred to by many as San Francisco’s ‘other Chinatown.’ But while there is a significant Chinese population here, many other cultures converge to make up its vibrant tapestry. You’ll find Russian groceries, Irish bars, a German bakery, and a Turkish-owned gourmet food store. Among the proliferation of ‘dollar stores,’ brimming with cheap plastic goods, you can find some retail gems.

Start near Sixth Avenue and pop into New May Wah Market (711 Clement Street; tel: 415-221-9826) for a cultural experience and culinary primer. Marvel not only at the vast selection of exotic produce and Chinese specialty foods, but also the prices.

On the corner, Kamei (no. 525–547; tel: 415-666-3688) is stocked floor-to-ceiling with ceramic bowls, Asian dinnerware, pretty serving trays, teapots, and kitchen gadgets. Boxed sets of Japanese bowls make nice gifts, and prices are beyond reasonable.

Across the street is one of the city’s great independent bookstores. It is easy to lose a few hours at ramshackle Green Apple Books (no. 506; tel: 415-387-2272), browsing new and used books in the rambling space with multiple levels and a huge selection of children’s books.

Park Life (no. 220; tel: 415-386-7275) is a retail space featuring art and design products culled from all over the world. Look for modern design, art, photography, and rare books, prints, paper goods, t-shirts, homewares, and original art.

Clement Street; [map] F5–H5

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Golfers will be pleased to note that San Francisco has a few great options to get you out on the green without leaving the city.

Just east of the Palace of the Legion of Honor (for more information, click here), the Lincoln Park Golf Course is a hilly but walkable 18-hole course. The fairways are lined with cypresses, and you can catch glimpses of the Golden Gate Bridge, the city, and the ocean along the course.

Open from sunrise to sundown, the 9-hole, par-27 Golden Gate Park Golf Course is casual, fun, and inexpensive. The course hosts tournaments, has a practice range, and offers junior and adult instructions through Beyond the Ball Golf School. Enjoy a meat feast at the on-site Ironwood BBQ.

The 18-hole, par-72 Presidio Golf Course and Clubhouse has a practice center and professional instructors to help improve your game. The challenging course winds through fragrant eucalyptus trees and Monterey pines.

According to locals, the gorgeous 27-hole Harding Park Golf Course is the crème de la crème. The course has undergone an $18 million refurbishment and is the only one to feature a 25-tee driving range.

Lincoln Park Golf Course; 300 34th Avenue; tel: 415-221-9911; http://lincolnparkgolfcourse.com; [map] B4

Golden Gate Park Golf Course; 970 47th Avenue at Fulton Street; tel: 415-751-8987; www.goldengateparkgolf.com; [map] A3

Presidio Golf Course and Clubhouse; 300 Finley Road at Arguello Gate; tel: 415-561-4661; www.presidiogolf.com; [map] C4

TPC Harding Park; 99 Harding Road; tel: 415-664-4690; www.tpc.com/tpc-harding-park; [map] B1

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The city’s most dramatic hiking trail winds along wild, craggy coastline, where the sea crashes violently against cliffs at the edge of the continent. It is unfathomably gorgeous, and appropriately named Land’s End.

Start at the Sutro Baths ([map] A4). What you see is all that is left of this early resort, which opened in 1897 with seven megapools of varying temperatures, fell into disuse, and then burned in 1966.

Find the Coastal Trail sign at the top of the parking lot, above the ruins. Enter beneath a canopy of twisted cypress trees, eerily carved by the wind. The waters below are strewn with the wrecks of ships that failed to navigate this dangerous curve and sank to their watery graves. Look for the rusted remains of Lyman Stewart and Frank Buck at low tide near Mile Rock Beach.

Continue savoring magnificent views along the 1.5-mile (2.4km) clifftop trail to Eagle’s Point ([map] A4), or venture down footpaths to discover secret coves, pocket beaches, and a hidden labyrinth. Use caution – the cliff paths are steep and without guardrails.

When you have had your fill of coastal loveliness, head back toward the Sutro Baths. All that clambering merits a glass of bubbly. Luckily the handsome, historic Cliff House is poised on a nearby bluff. Settle into a window seat, at either the Bistro or the fancier, pricier Sutro’s, pop the cork, and celebrate sunset at the edge of the world.

The Cliff House; 1090 Point Lobos Avenue; tel: 415-386-3330; www.cliffhouse.com; Sutro’s L, D, Sun Br; Sutro’s; [map] A4

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San Francisco embraces pizza in all of its saucy splendor. While the Richmond district is best known for fog, ethnic restaurants, and access to Golden Gate Park, two highly contrasting experiences of thin-crust pizza await your taste buds.

Cozy, charming Pizzetta 211 has just four tables inside, plus a few out front beneath strings of white lights. With the exception of some standing items, the menu changes weekly, based on what is seasonally available. Your topping might be shiitake mushrooms with house-cured pancetta and pecorino cheese, or the simple perfection of the Margherita – tomato, mozarella, and basil. They also offer inventive salads and calzone.

A few blocks away, beneath a trellis of dusty Chianti bottles and plastic grapes, sink into a booth at homey, family-friendly Gaspare’s. Put a quarter into the tableside jukebox and select tunes from an era when the Beach Boys were Top 40. The menu is large – pastas, classic Italian entrees, and salads – but do yourself a favor, order the pizza alla Napoletana and be prepared for thin-crust pizza mastery. Fold it in half lengthwise and enjoy.

Of course, you can enjoy pizza perfection all over town – from pillowy Sicilian squares à la Golden Boy (542 Green Street; tel: 415-982-9738) to beautifully blistered Neapolitan pies at Delfina (3611 18th Street; tel: 415-437-6800), to deep-dish delights at Patxi’s (511 Hayes Street; tel: 415-558-9991).

Pizzetta 211; 211 23rd Avenue; tel: 415-379-9880; http://pizzetta211.com; [map] B4

Gaspare’s; 5546 Geary Boulevard; tel: 415-387-5025; www.gasparespizza.com; [map] C4

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From its perch above the city in tranquil Lincoln Park, the lovely Palace of the Legion of Honor overlooks the Pacific Ocean and the Golden Gate Bridge. This French neoclassical gem houses a collection spanning 4,000 years of ancient and European art in an exquisite setting.

Step into the domed rotunda and explore the Legion’s treasures, which include European decorative arts and paintings, ancient art, and one of the largest collections of prints and drawings in the country. European paintings include masterworks from the 14th–20th centuries. Lose yourself in the visions of Picasso, Matisse, Rubens, Rembrandt, Monet, and El Greco.

Outside, among the formal gardens, colonnades, and fountains, is an imposing bronze sculpture sitting in pensive rumination. The Thinker is considered by many to be Auguste Rodin’s best-known monumental work. The piece was originally conceived in 1880 as the poet Dante, but evolved over time to become a representation of all poets and artists. The Thinker is one of the earliest acquisitions of more than 70 Rodin sculptures donated to the museum.

Don’t leave the museum grounds without contemplating the grim yet powerful Holocaust Memorial by George Segal, a contemporary of Warhol and Lichtenstein in the Pop Art movement. The haunting memorial is northeast of the museum overlooking Land’s End.

Weekend visitors are treated to public organ concerts on Saturday and Sunday at 4pm.

Palace of the Legion of Honor; 100 34th Avenue; tel: 415-750-3600; http://legionofhonor.famsf.org; Tue–Sun 9.30am–5pm; [map] B4

Pocket Opera

Pocket Opera is the brainchild of pianist Donald Pippin, who in 1954 was performing in small chamber ensembles in North Beach cabarets. The performances evolved into vocal recitals and one-act operas that became hugely popular. Pippin felt strongly that opera should be accessible to a wider audience, and began transcribing operas into English.

Fast-forward 25 years – the company had grown out of cabarets and into theaters. Since then, Pocket Opera has performed an annual season with an expanding repertory of operas, from familiar classics to forgotten gems. Pippin has changed the way audiences see, hear, and understand opera, making it an accessible form of musical theater.

Pocket Opera productions are minimally staged, use basic costumes, and only props that are essential to the story. Some are performed concert-style. Past performances include La Vie Parisienne, Cinderella, La Rondine, and La Traviata.

San Francisco Pocket Opera productions are performed at the intimate Florence Gould Theatre in the Palace of the Legion of Honor. The 316-seat jewel-box theater, decorated in the Louis XVI style with an elaborate Spanish mural on the ceiling, has hosted diverse artists, from Joan Baez and Andrés Segovia to Marcel Marceau and Duke Ellington.

Pocket Opera; Florence Gould Theatre, Palace of the Legion of Honor, 100 34th Avenue; tel: 415-972-8930; www.pocketopera.org; season runs Feb–July, check website for schedule; [map] B4

Opera in the Park

Opera in the Park is a free annual concert that takes place in September at Sharon Meadow in Golden Gate Park. Members of the San Francisco Opera perform arias accompanied by the San Francisco Opera Orchestra (www.sfopera.com).

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The cool, windswept outer Sunset has a distinctive character. With the powerful Pacific as its backdrop, it retains a hippie, groovy beach-town feel, though a pervasive chill keeps less hardy folks away. Surfers brave the waves and cyclists, skaters, and runners hit the paved esplanade that stretches for miles along the Great Highway. Colorful kites soar above the dunes year-round. And on rare hot days, Ocean Beach is paradise.

Laidback Java Beach Café (1396 La Playa Street; tel: 415-665-5282; [map] A3) is a haven for locals, surfers, beach bums, and writers. It is the perfect place to sip a pint outside on a sunny afternoon, or hole up with a latte and a bowl of (excellent) soup in foggy weather.

A few blocks east, Other Avenues (3930 Judah Street; tel: 415-661-7475; [map] D1) is a vegetarian grocery cooperative with organic produce and bulk foods. The funky spot on the corner is Judahlicious (3906 Judah Street; tel: 415-665-8423; [map] D1), a raw food, vegan, and juice bar for your hemp milk smoothie needs.

Some pockets of greatness have emerged on the next block. Quirky Trouble Coffee (4033 Judah Street; [map] C1) is a pocket-size joint offering stellar coffee drinks, fresh coconuts with straws, slabs of cinnamon toast, and unusual banter. The carefully curated General Store (4035 Judah Street; tel: 415-682-0600; [map] D1) has an eclectic assortment of things you will desperately want to buy. And dragging the neighborhood to the culinary playing field, Outerlands (4001 Judah Street; tel: 415-661-6140; [map] D1) is rustic gem serving outstanding simple, homey, and thoughtfully prepared food in a beach-and-driftwood ambience.

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The Sunset and the Richmond are two mostly flat neighborhoods that run parallel to Golden Gate Park. While largely residential areas, they are also known for a dazzling array of ethnic foods, from Thai to Taiwanese, Indian to Indonesian, with Burmese, Japanese, French, Italian, Vietnamese, Chinese, Moroccan, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Russian, Korean, and Eritrean mixed in.

If you have never tried Burmese food, now is the time. The inner Richmond boasts at least four restaurants serving this flavorful, distinct cuisine, informed by Thai, Chinese, and Indian flavors yet completely unique. Two popular choices are Burma Superstar (309 Clement Street; tel: 415-387-2147; [map] G5) and Pagan (3199 Clement Street; tel: 415-751-2598; [map] F5) – order the tea-leaf or rainbow salad and samosa soup.

For Vietnamese, Cafe Bunn Mi (417 Clement Street; tel: 415-668-8908; [map] D4) is a popular spot for delicious Vietnamese sandwiches. They also offer pho (soup), and flavorful rice and noodle plates. Little Vietnam (309 Sixth Avenue; tel: 415-876-0283; [map] G5) falls into the bargain-bites category, with counter seating, imperial rolls over noodles, papaya salad, noodle soups, and rice plates. The truly budget-conscious can fill up on a plate of super-cheap peanut noodles with a side of kimchi at Java Restaurant (417 Clement Street; tel: 415-752-1541; [map] G5).

Over in the Sunset, Naan n Curry (642 Irving Street; tel: 415-664-7225; [map] C3) is a consistently tasty, inexpensive option for no-frills Indian. Don’t leave town without sampling their tikka masala. For gyoza, generous noodle bowls, and excellent sushi in a classy, relaxing atmosphere, check out Ebisu (1283 9th Avenue; tel: 415-566-1770; [map] C3).

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Contemporary zoos pride themselves on being humane wildlife sanctuaries that promote education and interaction – and this is certainly the case atSan Francisco Zoo.

Over the years, the zoo has embraced the trend of moving animals from individual cages into well-designed, landscaped habitats. A wonderful example of this is the African Savanna. As you enter the zoo, turn right and look for the elegant silhouettes of giraffes in the distance. They roam in a 3-acre multi-species habitat that includes zebra, kudu, and horned oryx, with a winding boardwalk allowing visitors to get close.

A perennial favorite exhibit is the Lemur Forest, where an elevated ramp allows you to watch the shenanigans of these adorable primates as they swing and climb. Close by, Penguin Island is the most successful breeding colony of Magellanic penguins in the world. Check the feeding schedule so you’re sure to catch the charismatic aquatic birds being hand-fed.

It is always a thrill to visit the Lion House and the outdoor habitat where the majestic big cats roam. Watch as fierce, beautiful lions and tigers lumber about and let out bone-chilling roars.

Farther afield is Grizzly Gulch, where bears Kachina and Kiona are fed daily at 11.30am. Stop by and see these amazing creatures romp, forage, and chow down.

San Francisco Zoo; 1 Zoo Road; tel: 415-753-7080; www.sfzoo.org; daily, mid-Mar–early Nov 10am–5pm, early Nov–mid-Mar 10am–4pm; [map] B1

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The dark amber liquid you might have noticed flowing from taps, or being guzzled from yellow-labeled bottles all over town, is San Francisco’s prized brew, Anchor Steam.

The roots of the Anchor Brewing Company go back to the Gold Rush, when German brewer Gottlieb Brekle arrived in 1854 and opened a brewery on Pacific Avenue. It changed hands over the years and eventually became known as Anchor, a nod to the Barbary Coast.

Today, Anchor Steam beers are crafted in a gleaming copper brewhouse, one of the most traditional in the world. Anchor offers daily 1.5 hour walking tours of the facility that include a history of the brewery and culminate in a sample tasting session of a selection of their eight brews. Tours are quite popular and available by phone reservation only, so plan ahead as they book up – call during business hours (9am–5pm). Children are welcome on the tour, but bring juice boxes – sorry, no tastings for the kiddies.

Insider tip: if you don’t have reservations, call a day or two before and ask about cancellations.

Anchor Brewing Company; 1705 Mariposa Street; tel: 415-863-8350; www.anchorbrewing.com; [map] F3