Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
SoMa and Civic Center
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
After a major expansion, SFMOMA reopened in 2016 with nearly three times its previous capacity and added one of the greatest private collections of contemporary art in the world, the Doris and Donald Fisher Collection.
Also new is the Pritzker Center for Photography – the largest space in an American art museum dedicated to photography. Nearly 15,000 sq feet of art-filled free-access public space will more than double SFMOMA’s current capacity. The public galleries open one hour prior to the museums and there is free admission for those aged 18 and under.
Designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta, the $65 million San Francisco Museum of Modern Art jumpstarted the transformation of the SoMa neighborhood. The building, a blocky brick edifice with a zebra-striped cylindrical turret, courted significant controversy when it came on the scene in 1995. Like much significant art or architecture, people reacted to it – they either loved it or hated it. Still do.
SFMOMA was the first museum on the West Coast devoted to modern and contemporary art. Today it is an anchor in a neighborhood that has evolved from a dodgy low-rent district into a cultural center boasting some six museums within a few blocks.
Enter the museum by stepping into the soaring open atrium, a good meeting spot since you don’t present your ticket until you ascend to the galleries above.
The museum’s permanent collection contains more than 30,000 works of art across four floors, making it the West Coast’s most comprehensive collection of 20th-century art, including painting, sculpture, photography, architecture, design, and media arts. Be sure to see Henri Matisse’s seminal Femme au Chapeau (Woman with Hat), painted in 1905. Other painting highlights include Jackson Pollock’s Guardians of the Secret (1943), René Magritte’s 1952 Les Valeurs Personnelles (Personal Values), and works by Paul Klee, Piet Mondrian, Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, and Georgia O’Keeffe. Diego Rivera’s bold, bright Cargador de Flores (The Flower Carrier, 1935) is complemented by Frida Kahlo’s Frida y Diego Rivera (1931). Also look for Marcel Duchamp’s uproar-igniting Fountain, his most famous ready-made work. This glazed ceramic urinal is a replica Duchamp created in 1964; the 1917 original was lost. The fine photography collection includes works by Alfred Stieglitz, Edward Weston, Ansel Adams, Dorothea Lange, Robert Frank, and William Klein.
The museum has a lovely Rooftop Garden, where two open-air spaces and a glass pavilion afford dramatic views of sculptures and the San Francisco skyline. There is also a coffee bar. The museum store is on the ground floor and well worth a browse.
SFMOMA; 151 Third Street; tel: 415-357-4000; www.sfmoma.org; Thur 11am–8.45pm, Fri–Tue 11am–5.45pm, summer from 10am; [map] E3
Moma money-savers
SFMOMA is closed on Wednesdays but stays open late on Thursdays with half-price admission from 6–8.45pm. On the first Tuesday of each month admission is free. Many museum programs – lectures, films, and curator chats – are included with the ticket price. Also, check out the family offers – kids get in free on the first and third Sunday of the month, and on Family Studios days admission is free for the whole family, with tours and hands-on projects for children (www.sfmoma.org/events).
San Francisco Travel Association/Bruce Damonte
The renaissance of the South of Market neighborhood has seen a proliferation of new museums popping up near SFMOMA. One of the newcomers is the Contemporary Jewish Museum, which relocated to its striking new building, designed by Daniel Libeskind, in 2008.
On the corner of Mission Street and Yerba Buena Lane, the CJM takes the form of a huge metallic blue steel cube that seems to teeter on the side of the former Jessie Street power substation, in an absurd mashup of contemporary and traditional architecture.
The museum does not house a permanent collection but features traveling exhibitions that explore Jewish culture, history, and art.
After exploring, grab a gigantic cream puff at Beard Papa’s (99 Yerba Buena Lane; tel: 415-978-9972; [map] E3) and head to the Museum of the African Diaspora, which explores the contributions people of African descent have made across the globe.
Contemporary Jewish Museum; 736 Mission Street; tel: 415-655-7800; www.thecjm.org; Thu 11am–8pm, Fri–Tue 11am–5pm; [map] E3
Museum of the African Diaspora; 685 Mission Street; tel: 415-358-7200; www.moadsf.org; Wed–Sat 11am–6pm; Sun noon–5pm; [map] E3
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
For an edgier, grittier scene than you’ll find elsewhere in the city, explore mid-Market’s Sixth Street. You will need to steel yourself against the homelessness in this area – it is not overtly dangerous, but the poverty can be overwhelming. Keep your wits about you as you explore this burgeoning counterculture, reminiscent of New York’s Lower East Side.
Start at 1:AM (First Amendment; 1000 Howard Street; tel: 415-861-5089), a hip gallery dedicated to street art culture. Check out an exhibition, buy a cool hoodie, urban art print, set of spray paints, or sign up for a graffiti tour. It’s all about freedom of speech.
Before heading out to the clubs, you’ll want to stop for a bite, and gird yourself for a late night. Tu Lan (8 Sixth Street; tel: 415-626-0927) is a cramped, hole-in-the-wall that serves delicious Vietnamese food. The pho and imperial roll noodle bowl will not disappoint. Or if you’re in a Mexican mood, Taqueria Cancun (1003 Market Street; tel: 415-864-6773) serves excellent burritos. Both joints are easy on the wallet, but don’t expect cleanliness or atmosphere.
Suitably primed, there are a few worthy party options on Sixth between Market and Mission. Monarch (101 Sixth Street; tel: 415-284-9774) is a sexy, stylish lounge with downstairs dancing and DJs.
Showdown (10 Sixth Street; tel: 415-503-0684) attracts hipsters, tech dudes, and music lovers for inexpensive drinks, live music, DJs, and friendly bartenders.
Or get wild at Club OMG! (43 Sixth Street; tel: 415-896-6473), a predominately gay bar that welcomes all and hosts Latin drag shows, comedy open mics, karaoke, old school SF drag, and underwear dance parties.
Sixth Street; [map] C2/D2
Consult a personal shopper and upgrade your wardrobe at the Westfield Centre
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There is much good shopping to be done throughout San Francisco, but if you want a glamorous excursion beneath one roof, the Westfield Centre is the place to go. In recent years, the centre has been renovated, with the addition of many more shopping and dining choices. The original Art Deco escalators and steel-and-glass dome were restored, and the stylish mall swathed in marble.
With more than 170 retail options, you will find an array of shops from modern classic menswear at BOSS Hugo Boss (Street Level), to flirty women’s apparel at bebe (Level Two) to brain games at Marbles: the brain store (Concourse Level).
But when it comes to shopping for ourselves, some of us could use a little guidance. That is where the personal shopping experts at Nordstrom (Level Four, no. N1; tel: 877-283-4048; http://shop.nordstrom.com) step in. Nordstrom is an upscale department store that occupies the top four floors of the original part of the mall, and is known for impeccable customer service.
One complimentary amenity they offer is the service of a personal stylist. Make an appointment by calling ahead or booking through their website. The stylist will work within your budget, offer personalized style advice, assist you in putting a look together for a special occasion, and find key pieces to amp up your wardrobe. They are also known for their expert tailoring shop and bra-fitting services.
Westfield has a huge food court offering numerous outlets, from Ajisen Ramen to authentic Mexican at Andalé plus a nine-screen cinema, the Century Theatre, on the top floor.
Westfield San Francisco Centre; 865 Market Street; tel: 415-512-6776; http://westfield.com/sanfrancisco; Mon–Sat 10am–8.30pm, Sun 11am–7pm; [map] D3
Stimulate young minds at high-tech Children’s Creativity Museum or go tech-less at Mission Creek Park
Alamy
In this culture-vulture neighborhood, it can be hard to sustain the interest of restless kids and teens. Thankfully, two attractions are bound to spark their imaginations.
At the Children’s Creativity Museum, kids drive the experience, blending technology tools with art. They can choose to make a music video, compose a soundtrack, create a clay animation sequence, or experiment with digital art among other things. Special workshops allow families to work with artists on topics ranging from robotics to DJ technology. Working in the Museum’s production lab, families can play at being a director and bring 3D characters to life. At the end of the day, you will have a cool product to take home. There is also a museum store with innovative toys.
If your family needs a technology break and is looking for something more organic and outdoorsy, then Mission Creek is for you. This hidden gem has more than 10 acres of green space, a tree-lined esplanade, pathways with city, nature and creek views, sport courts, and a boat launch. There are also public restrooms and summer movie nights.
A good option for lunch or dinner is Mel’s, a legendary diner whose original location played a starring role in director George Lucas’s first feature, American Graffiti. Mel’s offers a large menu of standard American diner food – a crowd-pleaser for the shorties.
Children’s Creativity Museum; 221 Fourth Street; tel: 415-820-3320; http://creativity.org; Wed–Sun 10am–4pm; [map] E3
Mission Creek Park; Fourth Street at Channel Street; (415) 543-9063; http://missionbayparks.com; [map] G1
Mel’s; 801 Mission Street; tel: 415-227-0793; [map] D3
Pay homage to Harvey Milk at the City Hall rotunda
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The first openly gay elected official in the United States, Harvey Milk was voted to the San Francisco Board of Supervisors in 1977. During his 11 years in office he passed a stringent gay-rights ordinance and championed protection for gay citizens.
Milk was a charismatic leader and a brilliant and stirring speaker. He came to be known as the ‘Mayor of Castro Street,’ but not everyone agreed with his politics and lifestyle. The assassination of Milk and Mayor George Moscone by Dan White, a former police officer and city supervisor who had clashed with Milk over gay issues, rocked the city on November 27, 1978.
Visit City Hall to pay your respects to Harvey Milk and his legacy. A bronze bust of a smiling Milk was unveiled in the rotunda of City Hall in 2008, 30 years after he was gunned down in this same building and the same year his story was brought to the big screen in the acclaimed Milk. Thousands of gay marriages were performed here before California’s Proposition 8 denied homosexuals the right to marry in 2008, and since its repeal in 2013.
The building itself is worth visiting – a gorgeous example of Beaux-Arts architecture, with a grand marble staircase fanning out beneath the huge graceful dome.
City Hall; 1 Dr Carlton B. Goodlett Place; tel: 415-554-4933; http://sfgsa.org; Mon–Fri 8am–8pm; [map] A2
Milk’s message
Harvey Milk made a tape recording on November 18, 1978, with instructions to be read if he died by assassination. With chilling prescience, the recording said, ‘If a bullet should enter my brain, let that bullet destroy every closet door.’ He was killed nine days later. Upon his death, Milk became an instant martyr for gay rights and a hero to the community.
Seek enlightenment in the presence of the oldest known Chinese Buddha
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
A true gem located in San Francisco’s former public library building, the Asian Art Museum holds one of the most comprehensive collections of Asian art in the world, spanning 6,000 years of history.
The permanent collection here touches on all the major cultures of Asia, and galleries are divided by geographic regions – South Asia, the Persian World and West Asia, Southeast Asia, the Himalayas and Tibet, China, Korea, and Japan.
One of the most celebrated pieces is a gilt bronze Buddha dated AD 338 – the oldest-known dated Chinese Buddha, and a textbook example of Chinese Buddhist art.
A good tip – if you go to the museum’s website before you visit, you can listen to or download podcasts that explain various items in the collection. Free self-guided audio tours are also available at the information desk. Look for the headphone icon in the galleries for items described on the tour.
Free 45-minute expert guided tours are also offered on topics like the treasures of Korea, the Silk and Spice Roads, or the Great Works of the collection.
Be sure to take time to look building itself from various angles. The architecture is a dynamic blend of Beaux-Arts and modern design, and a creative re-use of the former library.
Family programs for children and parents include storytelling, performances, treasure hunts, or creating original artwork. Some of these workshops and activities are free, others are free with admission.
Stop before or after into Café Asia and treat youself to housemade mango lassi, udon noodle soup, fresh salads, a variety of Asian teas, wine, beer, or a flight of sake.
Asian Art Museum; 200 Larkin Street; tel: 415-581-3500; www.asianart.org; Tue–Sun 10am–5pm; [map] B2
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The hallmark of California cuisine is the use of ultra-fresh, seasonal ingredients, produced locally. A temperate climate that enables the state’s agricultural abundance, plus the health-conscious lifestyle associated with California, contribute to this culinary movement; organic farming and the array of farmers’ markets further underpin the philosophy.
Chef Nancy Oakes is at the helm of Boulevard, one of the city’s great restaurants and a shining example of California cuisine at its finest. Located in the sumptuously decorated Audiffred building, it pairs a top-notch menu with a romantic Belle Epoque ambience. The Boulevard experience is a truly sensual feast.
The reverence and respect given to the food and its preparation is apparent on the plate, be it a Dungeness crab and endive salad, or a wood-oven roasted Angus filet mignon. Dessert might be a selection of artisanal cheeses, warm sticky toffee pudding, or huckleberry and Meyer lemon sour cream cake.
After savoring your meal, work off the calories by heading out for a romantic night stroll. Cross the Embarcadero in front of Boulevard and wander down the length of Pier 14 that juts out into the bay. Silver swivel chairs invite you to relax and take in the breathtaking view of the Bay Bridge, with its glittering strands of lights that illuminate the waterfront.
Boulevard; 1 Mission Street; tel: 415-543-6084; www.boulevardrestaurant.com; Mon–Fri L & D, Sat–Sun D; [map] G5
Spend a night of high culture at the San Francisco Ballet or Symphony
Erik Tomason
There is no shortage of high culture in San Francisco – the city enjoys a world-class ballet company and symphony, both located in beautiful buildings within two blocks of each other.
Founded in 1933, the San Francisco Ballet is the oldest professional ballet company in the United States, and today it is one of the three largest companies in the country.
Director Helgi Tomasson, who took the helm in 1985, has nurtured young talent, commissioned new works, and introduced fresh interpretations of classic ballets. The result is a sophisticated, diverse international repertory.
To make performances more accessible, $20 tickets are available to all ballets. There are also standing-room-only options, and students and teachers pay half-price – so don’t forget your ID. Following the ballet on Facebook and Twitter can also net you discounts.
Rising like a phoenix, the San Francisco Symphony emerged not long after the 1906 earthquake and revitalized the city’s cultural life. In 1985, Michael Tilson Thomas’s tenure began, and the symphony has expanded and innovated. They even have their own recording label. Thomas, known here as ‘MTT,’ initiated the American Festival, as well as others focusing on Stravinsky, Mahler, and Beethoven.
San Francisco Ballet; 301 Van Ness Avenue; tel: 415-861-5600; www.sfballet.org; check website for schedule; [map] A2
San Francisco Symphony; 201 Van Ness Avenue; tel: 415-864-6000; www.sfsymphony.org; check website for schedule; [map] A1
Step on the field where the Giants play baseball on a behind-the-scenes tour
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
San Francisco’s Major League baseball team, the Giants, are steeped in history and beloved by people from all walks of life. In 2000, baseball took a great leap forward with the opening of AT&T Park, an architectural delight directly on the waterfront in South Beach’s sunny China Basin.
Replacing distant and drafty Candlestick Park, this park features perfect sightlines, fantastic food, a grand view of the Bay Bridge, easy public transit, and its highlight – ‘splash hit’ home runs into McCovey Cove in the bay over the right-field wall.
The park offers behind-the-scenes public tours, letting you step onto the legendary field and visit the dugouts, batting cages, clubhouse and press box, and a luxury suite.
Game tickets for the visitor are best found online at www.stubhub.com or https://seatgeek.com – though for many games tickets are available at the box office on game day, with most seats between $15–85. Locals know you can also watch the game for free from the right-field promenade, standing room only.
Arrive early to circle the ballpark and see statues of Giants greats Willie Mays, Willie McCovey, and Juan Marichal, and walk the waterfront promenade where boats vie for positions to scoop up home-run balls.
For pre-game festivities, a cluster of sports bars and restaurants have sprung up in the area, the best being the boisterous patio of Momo’s (760 Second Street; tel: 415-227-8660; [map] H2).
AT&T Park; 24 Willie Mays Plaza; tel: 415-972-2400; http://sanfrancisco.giants.mlb.com; tours daily 10.30am and 12.30pm excluding game days; [map] H2
Wash down a cheeseburger with a beer at a blue-collar mainstay on the waterfront
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
In a town so heavily influenced by California cuisine and the sustainable/artisan food movement, one might think that a greasy little waterfront burger joint would hardly stand a chance. And while it is pretty clear that they are not serving grass-fed, farm-raised beef, Red’s Java House is still standing in the shadow of the Bay Bridge, as it has since 1923.
Red’s is a place where a broad cross-section of San Franciscans – dockworkers, professionals, hipsters, firefighters, hippies, bikers, construction workers, and baseball fans – can come together in appreciation of a cheap, basic meal. The ‘special’ is the standard order – a double cheeseburger with fries and a Lagunitas pale ale that comes to about $15. Other menu items include hotdogs, chili, sandwiches, and spicy Bloody Marys. That Red’s is so close to the ballpark where the San Francisco Giants play home games is a boon to fans. Outside tables have extraordinary views, but expect no frills and marginal cleanliness here.
Those who are seeking frills are best off heading across town to Macy’s, where celebrity chef Hubert Keller helms the Burger Bar. Here you can build a burger using such ingredients as Kobe beef, buffalo meat, lobster, salmon, blue cheese, and baby spinach. If money is no object, order the $60 Rossini topped with madeira sauce, shaved truffles, and foie gras.
For middle-of-the-roaders, Burger Joint (http://burgerjointsf.com) and BurgerMeister (www.burgermeistersf.com) are both solid choices and each has three locations.
Red’s Java House; Pier 30; tel: 415-777-5626; www.redsjavahouse.com; Mon–Fri 7am–5pm, Sat–Sun 9am–5pm; [map] H4
Burger Bar; sixth floor, Macy’s Union Square; tel: 415-296-4272; daily L & D; [map] D4
