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Now that you have your pattern ready, it is time to perform the stitch.
The first thing that you should do is ensure that the gap or hole is devoid of any stray threads.
I use the term “stray threads” to talk about those threads that surround the hole and are usually uneven.
Take your scissors and cut off these threads.
You do not have to make each cut perfect. You are merely removing those strands of thread that are jutting out too much.
You are now going to use your chosen fabric to cover the area.
Place the fabric on the inner side of the denim. This is the side that comes into contact with your body, with the side that is visible being the outer side of the denim. Make sure the hole is covered properly.
When you are satisfied with the result, use your pins to secure the fabric.
Take out your fabric chalk (or your dry soap), and start making lines on the outer side of the denim. Use your ruler to make the lines straight.
PRO TIP: Once you have made your first line, take a step back to see if you have aligned the ruler properly for the next line. What you should also do is make sure that your lines match the area of the fabric placed below the hole.
There is no point in adding a line on a part of the denim that does not have fabric underneath. Additionally, your first line should start close to the edge of the fabric in order to allow for as many lines as possible.
The gap between each line can be either half an inch or a quarter of an inch. However, the smaller the gap between the lines, the more thread you might require to finish the job.
Take out your Sashiko needle and thread it with about 19 – 25 inches of sashiko thread. Try to keep the length between the aforementioned measurements or else you will have a thread that dangles a lot. This makes for an uncomfortable sewing experience.
Add a knot to one end of the thread. Choose the line that is closer to the edge of the patch. Now take your needle and insert it from the bottom of the patch (from the inner side of the denim).
Additionally, make sure that you are starting at the top or bottom of the line, and not somewhere in between.
What you are about to do is use a technique called “running stitch.” In this technique, you will make sure that you are not going to pull the thread through after you have inserted the needle.
This means that the stitches you add to the fabric will be continuous as you move from one stitch to the other.
Now you are going to start creating the stitches. Each stitch should be around a quarter of an inch long.
Here is a great way to keep track of your stitches. Starting from the inner side, pierce the denim. Measure quarter inches, and then pierce again.
Then measure quarter inches again and pierce the denim again. Continue doing this. Make sure you do not pull the thread through or you will have a difficult time getting back on track.
When you reach the end of the line, ensure that the needle is on the inner side of the denim before moving on to the other line.
When you reach the other line, pierce through the denim and bring back the needle to the outer side. Measure ¼ inches and pierce through and continue repeating the pattern you created on line one.
PRO TIP:
Do not worry if the stitches are not uniform. You are just starting out. The most important thing for you to do is enjoy the process. Immerse yourself into the technique and get into the flow of things. There is no need to be perfect. As you keep practicing the technique, you will gain mastery over it.
Uneven stitches are also designs of their own, in many ways. See if you can use that to your advantage and make a unique pattern out of it.
If you find yourself running out of thread, then make a knot on the inner side of the denim and tie it off.
PRO TIP: Anticipate the fact that you are running out of thread and make sure that you reach the end of a line before you create the knot, rather than having the thread run out in the middle of a line. It is much easier to start from the top or bottom of the line than from the middle.
Continue creating the stitches until you have covered all the lines you have made.
PRO TIP: Take a pause occasionally to smooth out the denim. This removes any unevenness and helps you create better stitches. You can use an iron if you like, but do not take too much time using the iron. Just a quick swipe to smooth out the denim should do.
When you have finished with the last line, create a knot (any simple knot will suffice) on the inner side and complete your stitch.
Admire your handiwork!
As you can see, by using a simple pattern, you have turned a piece of denim that had a flaw into a work of art. You are now the envy of your friends!
PRO TIP:
