Ocala

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Ride a cockhorse to Banbury Cross, To see a fine lady upon a white horse. Rings on her fingers and bells on her toes, She shall have music wherever she goes.

 

– Nursery rhyme

 

Ocala is the home of Florida’s first tourist attraction, Silver Springs, which has come into the Disney era with all flags flying. It’s still one of the premier tourist attractions in the Sunshine State, where you can glide through the jungle over crystal springs or groove to a concert by one of Nashville’s biggest stars.

 

First-time visitors may not know that the rolling green acres of Marion County are the home of some of the winningest thoroughbreds in horse race history. Stop at the Chamber of Commerce (110 W. Silver Springs Boulevard, Ocala 34470, 352-629-8051) for a self-guided map showing suggested routes through the county’s horse farms. Surrounded by white fences, they’re a picturebook scene. Some ranchers allow visits or drive-throughs, but individual policies vary. Don’t trespass. East of town, the silvery Oklawaha River winds its way to the St. Johns, forming the eastern boundary of Ocala National Forest.

 

Fish the lakes or streams, canoe the Rainbow River, swim in Juniper Springs, sail Lake Weir, picnic at Half Moon Bay, visit the Brigadoon-like hamlets of McIntosh and Micanopy to hunt antiques.

 

Sweet Dreams

 

Seven Sisters Inn

 

One of the most romantic inns in Florida, this Queen Anne Victorian treasure has everything you’ll need for an escape into sweet yesteryear. The house was built in 1888, a towering gothic with a wrap-around porch to catch the breezes. Enjoy the bay windows, four-poster beds, antique furnishings, lace and frills, without sacrificing such creature comforts as a telephone with modem jack. Tell hostess Bonnie Oden (she and her husband are both airline pilots) about your dream room and she’ll have just the right choice. The entire third floor is a loft with its own bath, a king-size bed and two twins, an ideal suite for a family. The wheelchair-accessible room has a nautical theme and a walk-in shower. Bonnie’s Room has a queen-size green iron bed with Battenberg lace covers, a walk-in shower/bath, telephone, and TV. Ken’s Room has a Jacuzzi sized for two. Loretta’s room is done in Laura Ashley prints and adjoins the sun room. Judy’s Room is decorated in blue gingham and has a big bathroom with Victorian soaking tub, shower, and two sinks.

 

The inn offers many special events throughout the year, including mystery weekends, and the decor at Christmas is a spectacle. It’s available for weddings and bridal luncheons, too. Bicycles are available for guest use, as is the library and game room. Bonnie will help you design your own romantic fantasy complete with hot air balloon ride, roses and champagne, a bedtime dessert basket, a gourmet picnic basket, theater and dinner, or a massage.

 

Three-Cheese Stuffed French Toast, Seven Sisters Inn

 

8 slices of French bread, 2" thick

 

3/4 cup (3 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese

 

4 ounces cream cheese, softened

 

1 tablespoon ricotta cheese

 

3 tablespoons apricot jam

 

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

 

1/2 cup milk

 

1 cup cornflake crumbs

 

2 tablespoons butter

 

Syrup:

 

6 ounces bottled apricot syrup

 

1/4 cup butter

 

2 tablespoons ground sugar

 

2 teaspoons ground ginger

 

16 peach slices (fresh or canned)

 

Sifted confectioner’s sugar

 

Starting from one edge, split each bread slice in half almost all the way through, so that when opened it looks like a butterfly. Using a fork, hollow out a shallow pocket in each slice, discarding crumbs, and set aside. Combine the cheese with the jam. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of this mixture into each bread slice, close them around it, and place the slices in a 13"x9" baking dish. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

 

Combine the eggs and milk, dip the bread in the mixture, and dredge in corn flake vrumbs. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat; cook the bread 2 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Place the bread in a lightly greased 13"x9" baking dish and bake at 400° for 15 minutes.

 

Combine 1/4 cup butter, the sugar and the ginger in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the peaches and cook three minutes, stirring gently. Cook the syrup in a saucepan over low heat until it’s thoroughly heated. Remove from heat and keep warm. Arrange the French toast on individual plates, top each serving with 2 peach slices, sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar, and serve with warm syrup. Serves 8.

 

• 820 S.E. Fort King Street, Ocala, in the downtown historic district; an hour north of Orlando. 352-867-1170.

 

• Rooms: 8

 

• Rates: $95-$155 weekdays, more on weekends and holidays. A two-night stay may be required. Rates include full breakfast, afternoon tea, and evening snacks.

 

• Credit cards: MC, V

 

• Dining: A five-course dinner can be served in the private dining room for $46 per person, or in your room for $60 per person.

 

• Children: 12 and older.

 

• Pets: Bonnie can arrange for your pets to stay with Kritter Sitters, an in-home pet care service not far from the inn.

 

• Parking: Provided.

 

• In the neighborhood: Take a stroll through the surrounding neighborhood, which is a tiny pocket of Old Florida.

 

Tables For Two

 

The town of Astor is a tiny community along the St. Johns River, but the trail that became Highway 40 was used by animals and Indians long before European settlement. A cathedral-size live oak tree just west of the river at the edge of the highway is named for William Bartram, the Philadelphia naturalist who passed this way in the 18th century, discovering and cataloging plants. Nearby is a restaurant that draws faithful fans from miles around.

 

Blackwater Inn

 

We like to reserve one of the secluded booths, which are on a raised platform with a good view of the river, but you might prefer a table right at the window. Have a cocktail or a glass of wine while you watch river boats float past. By day the parade is of houseboats and yachts. At night, pleasure craft dwindle, but commercial barges offer a show of twinkling red and green lights in the darkness. Portions are hearty enough for stevedores but you can also order from a big list of petite dinners, plus soups, salad bar, and other light fare. The steaks are prime; the seafood legendary. Choices also include baby back ribs, duckling, chicken, quail, and a vegetarian platter. The unassuming place attracts a nice mix of locals, snowbirds, and people from cruising boats, but it hasn’t yet been discovered by theme park vacationers. Williams Landing, the upstairs eating area, has an equally good view of the water, a sportier crowd, and a more pub-like menu.

 

• Highway 40 at the Astor Bridge; from DeLand, take US 17 north. From Daytona, take SR 40 west; from Ocala, take SR 40 east. 352-759-2802.

 

• Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 4:30pm-9pm; until 10pm on Friday. Saturday, 11:30am-10pm; Sunday, 11:30am-9pm. William’s Landing upstairs offers munchies, salads, sides, and sandwiches until midnight on Friday and Saturday. Both are closed Monday.

 

• Prices: Appetizers range from $3.99-$5.99; main dishes and platters $8.99-$24.99; petite dinners $5.99-$7.99. At William’s Landing upstairs, prices range from $10-$15.

 

• Reservations: Advised any time; required for popular holidays.

 

• Credit cards: All major.

 

Things To Do

 

Appleton Museum of Art

 

The is one of the finest small art museums in the South. It offers tremendous variety, reflecting a rich man’s own eclectic tastes. Many eras and countries are represented, so it’s a good place to seek out your own favorites and to get a smattering of many schools of art from Romanticism to Art Nouveau, Africa to the Orient, Buddhism to early Islamic ceramics and African witchcraft. Allow an hour or two to tour all the galleries. If you’re looking for that special souvenir of your trip, the museum’s gift shop offers tasteful, high quality jewelry, writing paper, reproductions, posters and accessories. Hours are 10am-4:30pm, Tuesday-Saturday; Sunday, 1-5pm. Closed Monday. Admission is $5 adults and $2 students with ID except those under age 18, which are free. 4333 N.E. Silver Springs Boulevard, Ocala; 352-236-7100.

 

Captain Mike’s Lazy River Cruises

 

The nature watching along the Withlacoochee River is awesome, but what makes Captain Mike special is that he will design a moonlight cruise, sunset trip, or even a champagne proposal cruise just for you. Arrange for a five-hour cruise to the Rainbow River, a dive cruise, a fishing trip, or almost any kind of outing you like. Cruises last from one to eight hours. Prices are based on a minimum of four persons, and range from $10 per person for a one-hour trip to $40 each for a seven-hour cruise. Captain Mike is in Hernando. Take State Road 200 southeast out of Ocala 26 miles; 352-637-2726. Web site www.Zip2.com/sites/CaptMike1/home.html.

 

Marion County Museum of History

 

It is a small effort but its location, enthusiasm, interesting displays and historic locale give it plenty of appeal to the history hunter. The building debuted in 1936 as the Florida Industrial School for Girls, a masonry vernacular design with Renaissance Revival and Neoclassical influences. Now staffed and supported by volunteers, most of them very capable amateur historians and local figures, the museum has displays depicting pre-Columbian history through pioneer times to the present. Hours are Friday and Saturday, 10am-2pm. Admission is $2. 307 S.E. 26th Terrace, Ocala, between S.E. Fort King and S.E. 25th streets in the McPherson Government Complex. There is no phone.

 

Silver Springs

 

This isn’t the little nature park you remember from Mom and Dad’s old photo album. It’s slick, packed with things to do and see, yet still a natural setting where you can lose yourself in quiet paths and along shaded streams, where history goes back 1.8 million years. A giant sloth claw was found here from 10,000 years ago; a mammoth tooth dates to the Pleistocene era. Take the glass-bottom boat tour, the Jeep Safari, and the Lost River Voyage. Sit on a bench in the dark little theater, one of the most under-used parts of the park, and hold hands while you watch clips from films and television shows that were made here at Silver Springs. There’s something here for every nostalgia buff, from early Tarzan movies through Sea Hunt television shows. Choose from a number of simple sit-down places to eat. Save room for a mid-afternoon treat at the old-fashioned ice cream parlor. Wander from shop to shop collecting souvenirs, and manage to see all the shows and exhibits. The Panther Prowl, World of Bears, manatee refuge, and Big Gator Lagoon are outstanding. If you’ve brought the children, they’ll love the petting zoo and playground. Everything is included in one price, so take some of the boat rides, linger over a soda in the ice cream shop, and stay on for the free country concert. Nashville’s biggest stars perform, so call ahead to see who will be here, when. Admission is $29.99 adults; $24.99 for children ages three-10. Parking is $3. Seniors, military, handicapped and AAA members get a discount. Open every day at 9am. Closing hours vary seasonally. 5656 E. Silver Springs Boulevard in Silver Springs, one mile east of Ocala on State Road 40; 352-236-2121 or 800-234-7458. Web site www.silversprings.com.

Park map