This pretty quilt, with its repeating pattern of brightly coloured petals on a light background, captures the feel of summer perfectly and would instantly brighten a plain bedroom.
• 2 jelly rolls (71 strips)
• 10 charm packs for background (I used 5 white and 5 cream and alternated the squares to create a chequerboard effect)
• 6 yards (5.5m) of fabric for backing
• 1⁄3 yard (0.6m) of fabric for binding
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 82in × 108in (208.3cm × 274.3cm)
• 5–6 yards (4.6–5.5m) of fusible web, 36in (91.4cm) wide
Size: 76in × 102in (193cm × 259cm)
From the jelly roll strips choose 71 strips for the petals.
From the charm packs cut 76 rectangles, 21⁄2in × 5in (6.3cm × 12.7cm); and four squares, 21⁄2in × 21⁄2in (6.3cm × 6.3cm). If you are using two colours for the background, you need to ensure that you cut out half of one colour and half of the other. Leave the rest of the charm squares as they are.
From the fusible web cut 83 strips, 21⁄2in × 36in (6.3cm × 91.4cm). Cross-cut 12 of these strips into 6in (15.2cm) lengths.
From the binding fabric cut nine strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) × the width of the fabric. Remove all selvages.
From the backing fabric cut two pieces approximately 42in × 72in (106.7cm × 182.9cm). Remove all selvages.
Cut the fusible web into 21⁄2in (6.3cm) strips. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, press the fusible web strips, paper side up, on to the back of each jelly roll strip. The fusible web generally comes in widths of 35in (88.9cm) so you will need one full strip and some of a second strip for each.
Using the template and the diagram as a guide, draw the petals on to the paper side of the fusible web, butting them up to each other. Cut out all the petals following the drawn lines. You should have 2816 petals in total.
For each block take a charm square, fold it in half and press. Fold the square in half again and press. You should finish up with a triangle.
Press the folded piece with a hot iron, ensuring that creases are formed on all edges. Open the fabric out and the fabric piece should look like this.
Choose eight petals, remove the paper backing from each, and place them on the background fabric so that the inside points of each of the petals are about the same distance from the centre as each other, and the ends of the petals are no less that 1⁄8in (0.9cm) from the edge of the charm square.
Once you have placed all eight petals and are happy with them, gently press the petals until they are all securely adhered to the background fabric.
The next step is dependent on how you plan to do your quilting. If you are planning to quilt an all-over pattern, you need first to sew around the edge of the petals to attach them permanently to the background squares. If you wish to do this, sew around the edge of every piece approximately 1⁄8in (0.3cm) in from the edge of each piece.
If you plan to quilt sympathetically to the design, you can leave the petals unattached for the moment and stitch them down as part of your quilting.
So that you do not have to remove the pieces again once you have positioned them, remove all backing papers from all petals before you start.
Lay out the blocks until you are happy with the placement. Sew each strip of blocks together and press the seams.
Once each row is joined, sew the rows together until the quilt top is complete. Press the seams as you go along.
To make the two side border pieces, sew 22 of the 21⁄2in × 5in (6.3cm × 12.7cm) charm rectangles together end to end. You should have two strips that measure 991⁄2in (252.7cm) long. Sew one of these to each side of the quilt. Press seams outwards.
For each of the two top and bottom border pieces, sew 16 of the 21⁄2in × 5in (6.3cm × 12.7cm) charm square rectangles together end to end. To each end of the strips, sew a 21⁄2in × 21⁄2in (6.3cm × 6.3cm) square. You should now have two strips that measure 761⁄2in (194.3cm) long. Sew these to the top and the bottom of the quilt. Press seams outwards.
If wish to stitch the petals down as part of the quilting, make sure they are well pressed down so that they stay stuck until the piece is fully quilted.
Sew the 108in (274.3cm) lengths of fabric together to form a piece measuring approximately 86in × 108in (218.4cm × 274.3cm).
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste using your chosen method.
Start quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and join the ends. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
Although this patchwork pattern of interlocking circles looks complicated it is in fact easier than it appears. Using a rotary cutter will give you identical shapes that will fit together perfectly.
• 1 layer cake piece of print fabric (32 squares)
• 1 layer cake piece of contrasting background fabric (32 squares)
• 33⁄4 yards (3.4m) of fabric for backing
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of fabric for binding
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 66in × 66in (167.6cm × 167.6cm) square
• Template plastic or cardboard (optional)
• Jenny Pedigo curved ruler (optional)
Size: 60in × 60in (152.4cm × 152.4cm)
From the layer cake pieces of both the print fabric and background fabric cut all 64 pieces in half diagonally.
From the binding fabric cut six strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) × width of fabric.
From the backing fabric cut two pieces, 66in (167.6cm) × width of fabric.
Two layer cakes, one each of print and background fabric, would give you enough pieces to make a co-ordinating circles cushion. If you wish to make the cushion too, sew all 80 layer cake pieces following the instructions up to the end of Step 2 and put 16 blocks aside for later.
Lay each triangle of layer cake on the cutting mat, lining up the edges with the markings on the cutting mat.
If you wish to use the template, lay the template on the triangle, mark the curves on the fabric and cut along the marked lines. Keep all the pieces.
If you are using the curved ruler, lay the ruler on the fabric so that the 31⁄2in (8.9cm) line on the ruler lines up with the long edge and the curve is centred on the triangle.
Using a rotary cutter, cut along the curve of the ruler. If you are using the ruler, the cuts will not quite reach the edges so just snip through each end of the curve with sharp scissors. Keep all the pieces.
Each block is made up of an outer section and an inner curve. Opposite quarters of each block have a print fabric outer section, and a background fabric inner section while the other quarters have a background fabric outer section and a print fabric inner section.
Take an outer section and an inner section and fold them in half. Finger press both on the centre line and open.
Lay the inner section on top of the outer section, aligning the centre pressed lines. Sew a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam from the centre to the edge, ensuring that you do not stretch the fabrics. Repeat for the other side of the block. Carefully press the seam towards the curve, ensuring that you do not distort or stretch the pieces.
Lay the half-block on your cutting mat aligned with the markings.
Trim the half-block so that the widest point of the curve measures 13⁄4in (4.4cm). Complete this step for all half-blocks.
Sew the two corresponding half-blocks together and press the seams open to reduce bulk. Complete this step for all blocks.
I find that a light spray of starch before pressing adds stability to the blocks. It also makes them much flatter and easier to trim.
Take two blocks and lay one on top of the other so that the side of the block with a plain fabric background is laid on top of a block that has a print fabric background. Ensure that the seams are lined up and pin together.
Take your ruler and draw a line from one corner to the other so that the line intersects the curve. Using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew a line in from both sides of the drawn line.
Cut the block diagonally in half down the drawn line. Press the seams open. Complete this for all 64 blocks.
Lay out four blocks using the photograph as a guide. The background sections of the blocks should be together and the print portion of the blocks should be together. Once you are happy with the placement, sew the four blocks together and press the seams. Complete this for the rest of the blocks until you have 16 blocks, each made up of four small blocks.
Lay out the 16 large blocks, positioning the blocks using the photograph as a guide. Once you are happy with the placement, sew the blocks together into rows, and then sew the rows together. Press the seams as you go along.
Ensure that where the blocks are joined together the print fabric sections of the block are sewn to a print section, and a background fabric sections are sewn to a background section. It’s easy to get them the wrong way round by mistake.
Take the two pieces of backing fabric and sew them together so you have a piece measuring approximately 66in × 82in (167.6cm × 208.3cm).
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste using your chosen method.
Start quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
The design of this pretty quilt incorporates simple stylized flowers, which are raw-edge appliquéd on to a dark background fabric. The use of yellows and greens creates the effect of a sunny flowery garden.
• 1 jelly roll (24 strips)
• 1 charm pack (32 squares)
• 41⁄4 yards (3.9m) of fabric for background
• 41⁄2 yards (4.1m) of fabric for backing
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 81in (205.7cm) square
• 41⁄2 yards (4.1m) of fusible web, 171⁄2in (44.4cm) wide
Size: 78in × 78in (198.1cm × 198.1cm) square
From the jelly roll strips choose 16 for petals and eight for the border. From these strips cut eight strips, 19in (48.2cm) long, and four squares, 21⁄2in × 21⁄2in (6.3cm × 6.3cm).
From the background fabric cut 16 squares, 19in × 19in (48.3cm × 48.3cm).
From the charm squares choose 32 for flower centres and motifs.
From the backing fabric cut two pieces, 81in (205.7cm) × width of fabric and two pieces, 84in (213.4cm) × width of fabric. Remove all selvages.
From the fusible web cut 36 strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) long; 18 strips, 21⁄2in × 5in (6.3cm × 12.7cm); and 32 squares, 41⁄2in × 41⁄2in (11.4cm × 11.4cm).
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, press two 171⁄2in (44.4cm) long fusible web strips and one 5in (12.7cm) strip paper side up on to the back of 16 jelly roll strips.
Using template A and the diagram as a guide, draw the petals on to the paper side of the fusible web, butting them up as closely as possible to each other. You should get eight petals from each jelly roll strip.
Cut out all petals following the drawn lines. You should have 16 groups of eight petals.
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, press the 41⁄2in (11.4cm) fusible web squares paper side up on to the back of the 32 charm squares. Using template B, draw the centre circles on to the paper side of the fusible web and in the centre of each circle draw the small flower using template C.
Cut out all circles and flowers following the drawn lines. You should have 32 circles and 32 flowers in total. Take six circles and six flowers and cut them in half to make 12 halves. Take one circle and one flower and cut them in half and half again to make a total of four quarters.
For each block take a 19in (48.2cm) square of background fabric, fold it in half and press. Fold the square in half again and press. Then, fold in half on the diagonal, so you finish up with a triangle. Press the folded piece with a hot iron, ensuring that a crease is formed on all edges. Open the fabric out and the fabric piece should look like this.
Take a set of eight petals and place them on the background fabric with the points of the petals lining up with the pressed lines. Place a centre circle into the centre of the block and adjust the placement of the petals so that none of the inner points of the petals are visible in the centre of the circle. Place a small flower in the centre.
Once you have placed all the pieces and are happy with the placement of them, press following the manufacturer’s instructions until all pieces are adhered firmly to the background fabric. Complete all 16 blocks in the same way.
The next step is dependent on how you plan to quilt this and there are two options. If you are planning to quilt the finished quilt with an all-over pattern then you need to sew around the edge of the petals first to attach them permanently to the background squares. To do this, sew around the edge of every piece approximately 1⁄8in (0.3cm) in from the edge. If you plan to quilt sympathetically to the design then you can leave these unattached for the moment and stitch them down as part of your quilting.
Lay the blocks out in rows of four until you are happy with the placement. Join each strip of blocks together with a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and press the seams open. Once each row is joined, sew the rows together until the quilt top is complete. Press the seams open as you go along.
Once you have laid out your blocks and are happy with the placement, take a photograph and view the layout on your camera screen. Sometimes a smaller image enables you to spot blocks that may need switching.
In the corners where four blocks join, place a centre circle and adjust the placement so that the point where the four seams meet is in the centre of the circle. Then place a small flower in the centre. Once you are happy with the placement of the motifs, press until all pieces are adhered firmly to the background fabric.
To add the half-motifs around the edge of the quilt, place a semi-circle on the quilt so that its flat edge is against the quilt edge and the seam runs down the centre of the circle. Then place a small half-flower in the centre, again lining the flat edge up with the edge of the quilt. Press until all pieces are adhered firmly to the background fabric. Complete this for all edges where two blocks meet.
To complete the top, place the quarter-circles and flowers on the corners of the quilt and attach as below.
Sew the 19in (48.2cm) jelly roll strips together end to end into groups of four. You will then have four lengths that each measure 741⁄2in (189.2cm) long. On to each end of two of these strips sew one of the 21⁄2in × 21⁄2in (6.3cm × 6.3cm) squares. You will now have two lengths that measure 741⁄2in (189.2cm) long and two lengths that measure 761⁄2in (194.3cm) long.
On to each side of the quilt top sew a 741⁄2in (189.2cm) strip. Press seams outwards.
On to the top and bottom of the quilt top sew a 761⁄2in (194.3cm) strip. Press seams outwards.
Sew the two 81in (205.7cm) pieces together to form a piece approximately 81in × 84in (205.7cm × 213.4cm). Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste together using your chosen method. Start quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams open. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press open. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and join the ends. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
The more control you have when free motion quilting the better. To help increase your control, draw some shapes on to waste fabric, layer up with wadding (batting) and some more waste fabric and practise quilting along your drawn lines. Remember that practice makes perfect!
This traditional patchwork design is simple yet effective. Choose fabrics with a limited palette of toning colours and offset these against a pale background to create this eyecatching diamond-patterned design.
• 2 charm packs (80 squares)
• 2 charm packs of background fabric (48 squares)
• 1 yard (0.9m) of background fabric
• 13⁄4 yards (1.6m) of fabric for backing
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of fabric for binding
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 61in × 76in (154.9cm × 193cm)
Size: 55in × 70in (139.7cm × 177.8cm)
From the charm squares choose 60 for the nine-patch blocks and 20 for the small blocks in the sashing.
From the background fabric cut three strips, 14in (35.6cm) × width of fabric. Cross-cut these strips into 30 strips, 4in × 14in (10.2cm × 35.6cm). Then cut one strip, 4in (10.2cm) × width of fabric. From this strip cut one piece, 4in × 14in (10.2cm × 35.6cm).
From the binding fabric cut seven pieces, 63in (160cm) × width of fabric.
For each block take five focus fabric charm squares and four background charm squares. Sew the squares together to form a nine-patch block as per the diagram below. Press the seams outwards to reduce bulk. Complete these steps until you have 12 blocks.
Take two nine-patch blocks and lay one on top of the other. Ensure the seams are lined up and pin together. Take your ruler and draw a line from one corner to the other.
Taking a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew a line on both sides of the drawn line. Cut the block diagonally in half down the drawn line. Press seams open. Complete this for all 12 blocks.
Next, take two of the slashed nine-patch blocks and lay one on top of the other with the diagonal seams on top of each other. Ensure the seams are lined up and pin together. Take your ruler and draw a line from one corner to the other, the opposite corners to the ones that already have the seams. Taking a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew a line on both sides of the drawn line. Cut the block diagonally in half down the drawn line. Press seams open. Complete this for all 12 blocks. Trim all blocks to 14in (35.6cm) square.
From the remaining charm squares, take two and place them on top of each other.
Take your ruler and draw a line from one corner to the other. Taking a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew a line on both sides of the drawn line. Cut the squares diagonally in half down the drawn line. Press seams open. Complete this for all remaining charm squares.
Next, take two of the slashed charm squares and lay one on top of the other with the diagonal seam matching. Take your ruler and draw a line from one corner to the other, the opposite corners to the ones that already have the seams. Taking a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam, sew a line on both sides of the drawn line. Cut the block diagonally in half down the drawn line. Press seams open. Complete this for all blocks.
Trim these blocks to 4in (10.2cm) square.
Don’t underestimate the impact of a well-chosen binding fabric for your quilt. A contrasting colour works really well for a simple but striking design.
Using the photograph as a guide, lay out the blocks, the sashing blocks and the sashing until you are happy with the placement of the blocks. Sew each strip of blocks together. Press seams open as you go along. Once each row is joined, sew the rows together until the quilt top is complete. Press the seams open as you go along.
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste together using your chosen method. Start quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams open. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press open. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and join the ends. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
This gorgeous quilt is made from repeating blocks of spinning circles made from pieced wedges of different-coloured fabric. The resulting geometric design creates a fabulous effect over a whole quilt.
• 1 jelly roll (30 strips)
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of fabric for block centres
• 61⁄4yards (5.7m) of fabric for background and binding
• 51⁄2yards (5m) of fabric for backing
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 78in × 96in (198.1cm × 243.8cm)
• 22 degree wedge ruler
• Glue stick (optional)
Size: 72in × 90in (182.9cm × 228.6cm))
From the background fabric cut: 13 strips, 10in (25.4cm) wide × width of fabric; nine strips, 61⁄2 in (16.5in) wide × width of fabric; six strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) wide × width of fabric; eight strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) wide × width of fabric for binding. Remove all selvages.
From the fabric for the block centres cut 20 squares, 5in × 5in (12.7cm × 12.7cm).
From the backing fabric cut two pieces, 96in (243.8cm) long × width of fabric. Remove all selvages.
Take the 30 focus fabric jelly roll strips and put them together into ten groups of three strips. Sew each group of jelly roll strips together along the width and press all seams. Pressing the seams open prevents the strips distorting too much when pressing and helps keeps them nice and straight.
Following the diagram, lay the wedge ruler on top of the strips so that the bottom of the ruler is at the bottom of the fabric and the 61⁄2in (16.5cm) mark is lined up with the top of the fabric. Cut down both sides.
As you cut the wedges down the length of the fabric, check that the centre of the ruler is square to the edge of the fabric. This will ensure that your wedges are accurate.
Then flip the ruler around so that the bottom of the ruler is at the top of the fabric and the 61⁄2in (16.5cm) mark is lined up with the bottom of the fabric. Cut the fabric to create another wedge piece.
Repeat this until you have 16 wedge pieces per strip. Keep the wedges together in groups of 8, according to the order of the fabrics within the wedge.
Repeat this for all strips so you have 20 groups of wedges in total.
Take the 10in (25.4cm) strips. Lay the wedge ruler on top of the strips so that the bottom of the ruler is at the bottom of the fabric and the 10in (25.4cm) mark is lined up with the top of the fabric. Cut down both sides. Then, as you did with the print fabric wedges, flip the ruler around so that the bottom of the ruler is at the top of the fabric and the 10in (25.4cm) mark is lined up with the bottom of the fabric. Cut another wedge piece. Repeat this until you have 160 wedges. These will be wedge A.
Take the 61⁄2in (16.5cm) strips. Lay the wedge ruler on top of the strips so that the 6in (15.2cm) mark on the ruler is at the bottom of the fabric and the 121⁄2in (31.7cm) mark is lined up with the top of the fabric. Cut down both sides. Again flip the ruler around so that the 6in (15.2cm) mark is at the top of the fabric and the 121⁄2in (31.7cm) mark is lined up with the bottom of the fabric. Cut another wedge piece. Repeat this until you have 80 wedges. These will be wedge B.
Take the 21⁄2in (6.3cm) strips and the leftover fabric from the above strips. Lay the wedge ruler on top of the strips so that the 6in (15.2cm) mark on the ruler is at the bottom of the fabric and the 81⁄2in (21.6cm) mark is lined up with the top of the fabric. Cut down both sides. Again flip the ruler around so that the 6in (15.2cm) mark is at the top of the fabric and the 81⁄2in (21.6cm) mark is lined up with the bottom of the fabric. Cut another wedge piece. Cut the remaining wedges from the leftover fabric from the above wedges until you have 80 wedges. These will be wedge C.
For each block you will need: one group of eight jelly roll wedges; 8 wedge A; 4 wedge B; 4 wedge C.
Using the diagrams below as a guide sew the wedges together. Sew first into four quarters, then two halves and then sew the whole block together. Press the seams towards the focus fabric.
Complete this for all groups of pieces until you have a total of 20 blocks.
Using the centre of the shortest pieces as the horizontal and vertical lines, align these with the lines on your cutting mat and trim each block to 181⁄2in (47cm).
Take copies of the octagon paper templates so that you have 20 papers.
Using the English paper piecing method, baste (tack) all the fabric pieces on to the paper templates using a contrasting coloured thread.
Press all centres so that the folds are nice and crisp. A little spray starch helps make the edges really crisp. Clip the basting stitches and then carefully remove the papers.
Place the octagons in the middle of the block, ensuring that the bottoms of all wedges are under the octagon. Pin them firmly in place. Machine or hand appliqué the octagons in place.
Lay out the blocks in four rows of five until you are happy with the placement. Join each strip of blocks together and press the seams. Once each row is joined, sew the rows together until the quilt top is complete. Press the seams as you go along.
When hand stitching the binding to the back of the quilt, hold the quilt by placing your fingers directly behind where you are sewing to ensure the threads do not go through to the front.
Take the two pieces of backing fabric and sew them together so you have a piece measuring approximately 82in × 96in (208.3cm × 243.8cm).
Layer up the backing, batting (wadding) and quilt top and baste using your chosen method. Start your quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
This deceptively simple patchwork baby quilt is made using machine-pieced blocks and decorated with quilted butterflies and dragonflies. Plain borders and sashing frame and separate the blocks.
• 1 charm pack (40 squares)*
• 1 jelly roll (27 strips)
• 1 jelly roll of background fabric (17 strips)
• 1 charm pack of background fabric (40 squares)
• 13⁄4 yards (1.6m) of fabric for backing
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 64 × 78in (162.6cm × 198.1cm)
* If you want all four pieces of each pinwheel to match either choose a charm pack with two squares of each print, or use two separate charm packs
Size: 58in × 72in (147.3cm × 182.9cm)
From the charm squares choose 20 sets of two squares for the pinwheels.
From the jelly roll strips choose seven strips for binding. Cut each strip in half and remove all selvages. The remaining 20 strips will be for the pinwheel borders. Cut these jelly roll strips into two strips, 81⁄2in (21.6cm) long, and two strips, 121⁄2in (31.7cm) long.
From the background jelly roll strips cut 15 strips, 121⁄2in (31.7cm) long. Leave the remaining 12 strips uncut.
For each pinwheel take two charm squares and two background charm squares.
Make four half-square triangles (see Machine Piecing). Trim each half-square triangle to 41⁄2in (11.4cm) square. Lay the half-square triangles out to form a pinwheel and sew them together taking a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Press seams open. Trim the pinwheel blocks to 81⁄2in (21.6cm) square.
To each side of the 20 pinwheel blocks for the front of the quilt, sew a 21⁄2in × 81⁄2in (6.3cm × 21.6cm) strip of jelly roll fabric. Press seams outwards. To each end of the pinwheel blocks sew a 21⁄2in × 121⁄2in (6.3cm × 31.7cm) strip. Press seams outwards. Trim all 20 blocks to 121⁄2in (31.7cm) square.
Remove the selvages from the remaining 12 background jelly roll strips. Sew them all together end to end, and press seams open.
From the long strip cut four strips, 581⁄2in (148.6cm) long; two strips, 721⁄2in (184.1cm) long; and two strips, 621⁄2in (158.7cm) long.
Lay the blocks out using the quilt photograph as a guide until you are happy with the placement of the blocks. Sew each row of three blocks together, adding a 121⁄2in (31.7cm) strip of background fabric between each one. Press seams towards the blocks.
Once each row is joined, add a sashing between each of the rows and sew the rows together until the quilt top is complete. Press the seams open as you go along.
When you are joining the rows together, make sure you match the seams of each block as closely as possible and pin the rows well.
Take the two 721⁄2in (184.6cm) strips and sew one strip to each side of the quilt top. Take the two 621⁄2in (158.7cm) strips and sew one strip to the top and one to the bottom of the quilt top. Press seams open as you go along.
Layer up the backing fabric, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste together using your chosen method. Start quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the four 581⁄2in (148.6cm) strips together and press the seams open. Fold this binding strip in half lengthways and press. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and join the ends. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
This decorative quilt uses fabrics in reds, blues and greens to create a repeating pattern of spinning windmill blocks interspersed with diamond shapes. Pebble quilting completes the effect.
• 10 fat eighths of print fabric
• 4 fat eighths of co-ordinating solids
• 11⁄2yards (1.4m) of fabric for diamonds
• 3 yards (2.7m) of background fabric
• 21⁄4 yards (2m) of fabric for backing
• 1⁄2 yard (0.4m) of fabric for binding
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 54in × 66in (137.2cm × 167.6cm)
• Printer paper
• Glue stick (optional)
Size: 48in × 60in (121.9cm × 152.4in)
From each of the 10 fat eighths cut eight wedge shapes using the template. You will have 80 in total.
From the co-ordinating fat eighths cut 80 pieces, 13⁄4in × 21⁄4in (4.4cm × 5.7cm).
From the fabric for the diamonds cut 240 pieces, 21⁄4in × 33⁄4in (5.7cm × 9.5cm).
From the binding fabric cut six strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) long × width of fabric. Remove all selvages.
From the background fabric cut 160 pieces, 31⁄4in × 8in (8.2cm × 20.3cm).
From the backing fabric cut: one piece, 54in (137.2cm) × width of fabric; and one piece, 27in (68.6cm) × width of fabric. Cut this second piece in half down the centre to yield two pieces measuring 27in (68.6cm) × width of fabric. Remove all selvages.
Take 80 copies of the foundation pattern on to printer paper and cut them out roughly.
Take a foundation paper piece and turn it upside down so that the lines are face down. Take one of the wedge shapes cut from the fat eighths and place in the centre of the block, right side up. Hold the paper up to the light and ensure that the edges of the fabric overlap the lines for the centre wedge.
On to one side of the wedge, place a 31⁄4in × 8in (8.2cm × 20.3cm) strip of background fabric face down, and align the cut edge of the fabric with the cut edge of the wedge. Ensure that the ends of the blocks overlap the edge of the lines on the paper. Hold this up to the light to ensure that the placement of the piece is correct.
Holding the piece firmly in place, turn the paper over and, with a 1.5mm stitch length, stitch down the line for the side of the wedge.
Fold the paper foundation back and trim the seam allowance to 1⁄4in (0.6cm), flip the background piece back and press gently.
A dab of glue stick or a pin will keep the first fabric piece in place until it has been stitched down.
Using the same method, add all the remaining pieces in the order shown on the foundation pattern.
Once the block is complete, trim it using the outside of the foundation paper as a guide and then very gently remove the papers from the back of the block.
Take four blocks with the same centre wedge fabric and, using the diagram as a guide, sew the blocks together. Trim to 121⁄2in (31.7cm) square. Repeat this for all pieces until you have 20 blocks.
Lay out the blocks with four across the width and four down the length. Once you are happy with the placement, sew the blocks together into rows, and then sew the rows together. Press the seams as you go along.
Take the two pieces of 27in × 42in (68.6cm × 106.7cm) backing fabric and sew them together end to end so you have one piece measuring approximately 54in × 42in (137.2cm × 106.7cm).
Sew the 27in × width of fabric piece down the width of fabric side of the width of fabric × 54in (106.7cm × 137.2cm) piece so that you have a piece measuring approximately 54in × 69in (137.2cm × 175.3cm). Press all seams.
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste using your chosen method. Start your quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
Strip piecing jelly rolls makes light work of creating this simple colourful quilt. Change the design of the jelly rolls to make this a great quilt for babies and small children or a perfect quilt for snuggling under on cold winter evenings.
• 1 jelly roll of focus fabric for quilt and binding (37 jelly roll strips)
• 1 jelly roll for background (42 jelly roll strips)
• 31⁄2 yards (3.2m) of fabric for backing
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 65in × 82in (165.1cm × 208.3cm)
Size: 58in × 76in (147.3cm × 193cm)
From the focus fabric jelly roll strips choose: 30 for the blocks and border; and seven for the binding. Cut the seven binding strips in half and remove the selvages. From one half-strip of binding cut four 21⁄2in (6.3cm) squares and then discard the rest of that half-strip.
From the backing fabric cut two pieces, 63in (160cm) × width of fabric.
Take the 30 focus fabric jelly roll strips and divide them into ten groups of three strips. Sew each group of jelly roll strips together along the length and press all seams.
Pressing the seams open prevents the strips distorting too much when pressing and helps keeps them nice and straight.
From the ten groups cut a total of 160 strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) long.
Take the 42 background jelly roll strips and divide them into 14 groups of three strips. Sew each group of jelly roll strips together along their length and press all seams.
From the 14 groups cut 216 strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) long.
Take one focus fabric strip. On to each side sew one background strip, matching the seams as closely as possible. Press seams.
Complete this for all strips until you have a total of 108 nine-patch blocks.
Lay out the blocks into twelve rows of nine so that the focus fabric runs horizontally across the quilt. Once you are happy with the placement of the blocks, join the blocks together, pressing the seams as you go along.
Once each row is joined, sew the rows together until the quilt top is complete. Press the seams as you go along.
Sew the remaining focus fabric strips together end to end so that you have two lengths each containing nine units 541⁄2in (138.4cm) long, and two lengths each containing 12 units 721⁄2in (184.1cm) long.
On to each end of both of the 541⁄2in (138.4cm) strips, sew one of the 21⁄2in (6.3cm) squares cut from the half-strip so that they measure 581⁄2in (148.6cm) long.
On to each side of the quilt top sew a 721⁄2in (184.1cm) strip. Press seams outwards. On to the top and bottom of the quilt top sew a 581⁄2in (148.6cm) strip. Press seams outwards.
When sewing the rows together and when adding the borders, match the seams as closely as possible and pin to hold the pieces together securely during sewing.
Take the two pieces of backing fabric and sew them together so you have a piece measuring approximately 63in × 82in (160cm × 208.3cm).
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste using your chosen method. Start your quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
This zigzag quilt is easier to make than it looks as there are no seams to match up. It is simply a matter of piecing the fabric pieces into strips and then joining them together. Follow the pattern carefully and you can’t go wrong.
• 1 layer cake of print fabric (34 squares)
• 1 layer cake of background fabric (37 squares)
• 5 yards (4.6m) of fabric for backing
• 1⁄3 yard (0.6m) of fabric for binding
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 82in × 92in (208.3cm × 233.7cm)
Size: 76in × 86in (193cm × 218.4cm)
Cut the 34 layer cake print fabric squares in half to yield 68 rectangles, 5in × 10in (12.7cm × 25.4cm).
Cut 28 layer cake background fabric squares in half to yield 56 rectangles, 5in × 10in (12.7cm × 25.4cm).
Cut three layer cake background fabric squares in quarters to yield 12 squares, 5in × 5in.
Cut six layer cake background fabric squares in half to yield 12 rectangles, 5in × 10in (12.7cm × 25.4cm). Cross-cut these to yield 12 rectangles, 5in × 71⁄2in (12.7cm × 19cm) and 12 rectangles, 21⁄2in × 5in (6.3cm × 12.7cm).
From the backing fabric cut two pieces, 90in (228.6cm) × width of fabric. Remove all selvages.
From the binding fabric cut eight strips, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) × width of fabric. Remove all selvages.
You need 17 strips in total. For each strip take four 5in × 10in (12.7cm × 25.4cm) rectangles of print fabric and three 5in × 10in (12.7cm × 25.4cm) rectangles of background fabric. Starting with a rectangle of print fabric, sew the pieces end to end, alternating between print and background fabric.
Separate the 17 strips into four groups:
Group A – 3 strips
On the top of each strip sew a 5in × 10in (12.7cm × 25.4cm) piece of background fabric, and on the bottom sew a 5in × 21⁄2in (12.7cm × 6.3cm) piece.
Group B – 6 strips
On the top of each strip sew a 5in × 71⁄2in (12.7cm × 19cm) piece of background fabric, and on the bottom sew a 5in (12.7cm) square.
Group C – 6 strips
On the top of each strip sew a 5in (12.7cm) square of background fabric, and on the bottom sew a 5in × 71⁄2in (12.7cm × 19cm) piece.
Group D – 2 strips
On the top of each strip sew a 5in × 21⁄2in (12.7cm × 6.3cm) piece of background fabric, and on the bottom sew a 5in × 10in (12.7cm × 25.4cm) piece.
Press all seams.
Lay out the strips according to the diagram below. Once you are happy with the placement, sew the rows together until all strips have been attached. Press the seams as you go along.
Take the two pieces of backing fabric and sew them together so you have a piece measuring approximately 82in × 90in (208.3cm × 228.7cm).
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste using your chosen method. Start your quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
Pressing the seams open prevents the strips distorting too much when pressing and helps keeps them nice and straight.
This quilt reminds me of fun fairs and merry-go-rounds with its bold primary colours and graphic shapes. This pattern looks way more complicated than it actually is as there are few seams to match, so choose some great fabrics and have fun!
• 1 jelly roll (40 strips)
• 2 layer cakes for background (40 squares in each)
• 51⁄3 yards (4.9m) of fabric for backing
• 1⁄3 yard (0.6m) of fabric for binding
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 76in × 96in (193.1cm × 243.8cm)
• Fabric marking pen or pencil suitable for the background colour
Size: 72in × 90in (182.9cm × 228.6cm)
From each of the jelly roll strips, remove the selvages. Then fold each strip in half lengthways. Fold in half again, and then again. Cut along each folded edge with scissors so you have eight equal-sized pieces. The pieces do not have to be 100 per cent accurate so cutting this way will save time.
From the 80 background layer cakes cut 320 squares, 5in × 5in (12.7cm × 12.7cm).
From the binding fabric cut eight pieces, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) × width of fabric. Remove all selvages.
From the backing fabric cut two pieces, 96in (243.8cm) × width of fabric. Remove all selvages.
Take one 5in (12.7cm) square cut from the background layer cake fabric and lay it on your cutting board so the edges are aligned with the lines on your cutting mat.
Using a ruler and a fabric marking pen or pencil, draw a line between the 2in (5.1cm) mark on the left edge of the piece to the 41⁄2in (11.4cm) mark on the bottom of the piece as in the diagram. Repeat this for all squares.
For light background colours, you could use an air-removable pen, a water-soluble pen or a pencil to mark your lines. For darker background colours, use tailor’s chalk or pale coloured fabric-marking pencils.
For each block take four 5in (12.7cm) squares of background layer cake fabric. On each of the drawn lines lay a strip cut from the jelly roll strips, making sure that the zigzag edge of the strip is lined up with the drawn line.
Attach the strip to the background fabric by sewing a seam 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the edge of the strip. Repeat this for all four pieces.
Trim off the excess background fabric and then trim the block to 5in (12.7cm) square.
Sew the four squares together as shown in the diagram below. Press seams as you go along.
Repeat this until you have 80 blocks. Trim all blocks to 91⁄2in × 91⁄2in (24.1cm × 24.1cm) square.
Join each strip of blocks together and press the seams. Once each row is joined, sew the rows together until the quilt top is complete. Press the seams as you go along.
Sew the two pieces of backing fabric together so you have a piece measuring approximately 82in × 96in (208.3cm × 243.8cm).
Layer the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste using your chosen method.
Start quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press.
Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and join the ends. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
This fabulous quilt incorporates stars, squares, diamonds and stripes in a colourful geometric kaleidoscope. It uses a combination of strip-pieced jelly rolls and pre-cut charm squares and is finished with quilted star patterns.
• 1 jelly roll (39 strips)
• 1 charm pack (40 squares)
• 13⁄4 yards (1.6m) of fabric for stars
• 13⁄4 yards (1.6m) of background fabric
• 4 yards (3.6m) of fabric for backing
• Piece of wadding (batting) at least 66in × 86in (167.6cm × 218.4cm)
• Template plastic or piece of card at least 41⁄4in (10.8cm) square
• Marking pen or pencil
Size: 60in × 80in (152.4cm × 20.3cm)
From the jelly roll strips choose 32 strips for the pieced sections and seven strips for the binding. Remove the selvages and cut the seven binding strips in half.
From the fabric for stars cut 48 squares, 5in (12.7cm). Cut these diagonally to yield 96 triangles. From the same fabric, cut 48 strips, 21⁄4in × 5in (5.7cm × 12.7cm), and 48 strips, 21⁄4in × 81⁄2in (5.7cm × 21.6cm).
From the background fabric cut 48 strips, 21⁄2in × 81⁄2in (6.3cm × 21.6cm) and 48 strips, 1⁄2in × 121⁄2in (6.3cm × 31.7cm).
From the backing fabric cut two pieces, 42in × 72in (106.7cm × 182.9cm). Remove all selvages.
Take 32 jelly roll strips for the pieced sections and put them together into eight groups of four strips. Sew each group of jelly roll strips together along the width and press all seams open. Pressing the seams open prevents the strips distorting too much and helps keep them nice and straight. From each of the eight groups cut three 121⁄2in (31.7cm) units.
On a piece of template plastic or card, draw a 41⁄8in (10.5cm) square. Draw a line diagonally across the square, and cut out one of the triangles. This is the template that will be used to help you place the star points correctly. On each of the four corners of each long stripy unit, place the template in the corner and draw a line from one edge of the fabric to the other (see the diagram).
On each of the drawn lines lay a triangle cut from the 5in (12.7cm) squares, making sure that the edge of the triangle is lined up with the drawn line and that the outer points overlap the edges of the unit by the same amount at each side (see the diagram).
Using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam allowance down the edge of the triangle, attach the triangle to the stripy unit. Complete all of the corners in the same way. Trim the excess fabric from the back, fold back the triangles and press.
Trim the excess fabric away so that the long units measure 121⁄2in × 81⁄2in (31.7cm × 21.6cm). Take seven blocks and cut them in half across the width so that you have 14 blocks measuring 61⁄4in × 81⁄2in (15.9cm × 21.6cm).
Take 24 charm squares and to two sides of each one sew a 21⁄4in × 5in (5.7cm × 12.7cm) strip of star fabric. Press seams outwards. To each end then sew a 21⁄4in × 81⁄2in (5.7cm × 21.6cm) strip of star fabric.
Press seams outwards. To each side of each block sew a 21⁄4in × 81⁄2in (5.7cm × 21.6cm) strip of star fabric. Press seams outwards. To each end then sew a 21⁄4in × 121⁄2in (5.7cm × 31.7cm) strip of star fabric. Press seams outwards. Trim all blocks to 81⁄2in (21.6cm) square.
Take 12 of the star centre blocks. To each side of the block sew a 21⁄4in × 81⁄2in (5.7cm × 21.6cm) strip of background fabric. Press seams outwards. To the top and bottom of each block sew a 21⁄4in × 121⁄2in strip of background fabric. Press seams outwards.
Trim all 12 blocks to 121⁄2in (31.7cm) square. Take five of the blocks and cut them in half across so that you have ten half-blocks that measure 61⁄4in × 121⁄4in (15.9cm × 31.1cm).
Take one block and cut it in half across, and then in half again so that you have four quarter blocks that measure 61⁄4in (15.9cm) square.
Use a little spray starch on your blocks before trimming them. This helps to make all the seams nice and flat, which helps with accuracy when trimming the blocks to size. It also adds stability to the blocks and prevents them from stretching when you sew them together.
Lay the blocks out using the diagram as a guide until you are happy with the placement of the blocks. Sew each row of blocks together, taking a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam. Press seams open. Then sew the rows together until the quilt top is complete. Press the seams open as you go along.
Sew the remaining 16 charm squares so that they form a row measuring 5in × 721⁄2in (12.7 × 184.1cm). Sew the row of charm squares to one side of the 72in (182.9cm) length of backing fabric and then sew the last piece of backing fabric on to the other side. Press seams open. You will now have a piece that measures approximately 72in × 88in (182.9cm × 223.5cm).
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste together using your chosen method. Start quilting from the centre and work your way out to the edges. Join all the binding strips together and press the seams open. Fold the binding strip in half lengthways and press. Join the binding to the front of the quilt using a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam and join the ends. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.
• 16 fat quarters of focus fabric
• 3 yards (2.8m) of background fabric A for centres, long diamonds and large octagons
• 23⁄4 yards (2.5m) of background fabric B for squares for main background
• 53⁄4 yards (5.2m) of fabric for backing
• 1⁄3 yard (0.7m) of fabric for binding
• Piece of wadding at least 92in × 92in (233.7cm × 233.7cm)
• Template plastic
• Marker pen
• Printer paper
Size: 86in × 86in (218.4cm × 218.4cm)
From each fat quarter cut four pieces, 41⁄2in × 22in (11.4cm × 55.9cm). Cross-cut these at 5in (12.7cm) so that you have 16 pieces from each fat quarter.
From background fabric A cut: 64 pieces, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) square; 256 shapes of template A; 49 pieces, 51⁄2in (14cm) square; 28 rectangles, 3in × 6in (7.6cm × 15.2cm); and four pieces, 3in (7.6cm) square.
From background fabric B cut: 504 pieces, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) square; and 112 strips, 21⁄2in × 6in (6.3cm × 15.2cm).
From the binding fabric cut eight pieces, 21⁄2in (6.3cm) × width of fabric.
From the backing fabric cut: two pieces, 92in (233.7cm) × width of fabric; and three pieces, 7in (17.8cm) × width of fabric. Remove all selvages.
Trace templates C and D on to template plastic using permanent marker. Carefully cut out.
You will need the following number of paper shapes: 256 hexagons (template B); 576 squares (template A); and 112 strips with triangle ends (template D). Photocopy each template and repeat several times to create a sheet of each shape. Then photocopy each sheet until you have the required number of paper shapes.
Cut these paper pieces out by stapling several sheets of shapes together and cutting along the lines on the top sheet.
Tack (baste) all the fabric pieces on to paper templates using a contrasting thread (see English paper piecing).
You will need 64 blocks in total and for each block you will need: four hexagons of focus fabric of one design; one flower centre of background fabric B; eight squares of background fabric A; and four long diamonds of background fabric B.
Arrange and hand sew the pieces together as per the diagrams, ensuring that the edges of the pieces are lined up as accurately as possible (see English paper piecing).
Once the pieces have been joined together, add the long thin triangles. Firstly sew the corners of the background squares together as per the diagram. Turn the block over, place the triangles over the spaces and pin securely.
Stitch the edges of the background pieces down to the diamonds in the same way you would for appliqué. If you wish, you could use water-based glue stick or appliqué glue to hold the diamond and large polygon appliqué pieces in place while you do this.
Sew the blocks into eight rows of eight blocks, inserting triangle strip pieces between the blocks. Do not add triangle strip pieces to the end of each row.
Lay the rows out and sew together, inserting triangle strip pieces between the rows. You will have holes where the octagons should be – these will be added in next.
Once the rows have been joined, turn the quilt top over, tuck the ends of the diamonds in and place the 51⁄2in (14cm) squares of background fabric A over the octagon shapes and pin securely.
You could use water-based glue stick or appliqué glue to firmly adhere the pieces in place. Stitch the edges of the English paper pieces down to the octagons.
To fill in the half-octagons around the edges of the quilt, again tuck the ends of the diamonds in and place the 3in × 6in (7.6cm × 15.2cm) rectangles over the half-octagon shapes and pin securely. Again stitch the edges of the English paper pieces down to the octagons.
Line your ruler up with the edge of the hexagons and draw a line. Sew around the quilt top 1⁄8in (0.3cm) from the drawn line and edge of the hexagons using a short stitch length. Trim the quilt along the drawn lines.
Snip all the threads on the face of the quilt top and gently ease all the papers out. If you use the English paper piecing method described in the Materials and techniques section, you do not need to remove the threads as when you will the papers out the threads will automatically be pulled through to the back.
Sew the backing pieces together down their length to give you a piece that measures 86in × 92in (218.4cm × 233.7cm).
Sew the three 7in (17.8cm) strips end to end and trim to 92in (233.7cm) long. Sew this piece down the length of the backing so that you have a piece that measures approximately 90in × 92in (228.6cm × 233.7cm). Press seams.
Layer up the backing, wadding (batting) and quilt top and baste using your chosen method.
Join all the binding strips together and press the seams. Join the binding to the front of the quilt and join the ends. Hand stitch the binding down to the back of the quilt.