The Logic Behind Leaks
When a home is built, it generally consists of a lot of wood nailed together, some insulation and drywall added, then small strips of wood trim slapped up to cover all the little cracks and holes you’d see otherwise. In most cases, the builder will take the time to fill the small voids around window and doorframes that could potentially be sources of air penetration. If you have an older home, chances are that the builder simply used wads of fiberglass insulation stuffed into those gaps to do the job. Or the builder may have used nothing at all!
In these photos of a door in a house I’m renovating, you can see the gap the trim was covering. In this case, the builder simply left an empty void, creating an area where air can leak. It may not seem like much, but if you add up all of the small nooks and crannies like this one, you’ll end up with a hole the size of a window. And since you most likely wouldn’t leave a window open and the furnace or air conditioner running, doesn’t it make sense to close these holes as well?
If you’ve ever taken off the trim from around a window or door and noticed that the insulation used to fill the small voids in the framing has turned black, you’ll understand why using insulation is a great way to simply filter the air. The insulation turned dark because of the dust and dirt particles that were caught as the air passed back and forth. Unfortunately, fiberglass insulation does little to stop the movement of the air.
That’s why in modern homes, spray foam is often used to fill the voids. It creates a solid barrier that cuts down tremendously on the amount of air that can leak in — or out. You can see in this photo that the gap between the door frame and the wall framing was filled to do just that.
That being said, it would be not only messy but time-consuming and costly to rip all the trim boards from around your windows and doors to install spray foam. Instead, we’ll use caulk to create a secondary barrier to air leakage. It’s more convenient and economical, and will do a great job at saving you the energy dollars.
While we’re at it, it’s a good idea to check these areas for gaps and openings:
• Dryer vents
• Cable and electrical line openings in exterior walls
• Around water spigots outside
• Light fixtures inside and out
Each of these areas is a candidate for either caulk, spray foam insulation, or in the case of a light fixture, a good drywall repair job, at the very least. All of these areas with small openings have the potential to let air pass through, and can lead to serious energy dollars lost!
Knowing whether or not gaps are sealed is a relatively simple process. You can hold a lit match near window frames and doorframes and see if the flame flickers. If so, the window or door is a likely candidate for a sealing job.
Just a reminder, make sure you never leave a lit match unattended and use caution when dealing with fire.
A candle or stick of incense is another way to detect leaks and less likely to burn your fingers! Don’t leave them burning unattended either!
There are also devices called thermal leak detectors on the market. They used to be only in the hands of professionals, but are now becoming a common item in home toolboxes. They usually cost less than $50 and are just plain fun to use.
Thermal Leak Detector
You begin by aiming the sensor at a wall in your home to get a “base” reading. Then simply aim it at everything else, from door frames to baseboard, to see if there is a significant temperature difference. If so, you probably have an air leak and a starting point for your sealing project.
With this particular tool, you can adjust the settings to detect specific temperature variations. If an object or area is hotter or colder than your base reading, it will be signified by a red or blue light.
Tools like this one make the process of fine-tuning your home a little more fun, but don’t feel like you have to run out and buy one. The candles, matches and incense are cheap and probably already in your kitchen drawer.
With that said, let’s take on one of the simplest projects in an older home — weatherstripping old, leaky windows.
Weatherstripping Drafty Windows
There are two types of old windows in this world: those that have been painted shut for years, and those that are drafty and hard to open and close. If you have an older home, you know what I mean. We have learned at least one thing from those old windows, though — paint makes a great sealant! If you have the drafty style, there’s a pretty simple fix that can cut down dramatically the amount of air that can escape or enter through the window.
Weatherstripping comes in several varieties. The most common type used for sealing gaps and cracks around windows is called “closed-cell foam”. It’s flexible, and has an adhesive backing that will stick to just about anything! Sold in small rolls, it’s inexpensive and easy to use.
1 Once you’ve identified your leaky window, open it up about halfway. Measure the bottom edge of the window from side to side. Be sure to measure all the way to the window frame on each side. And remember… measure twice and cut once!
2 Once you have your measurement, use scissors to cut a length of the weatherstripping. Don’t remove the backing at this time, though.
3 Clean the bottom edge of the window frame with a damp towel. Be sure to remove any remnants of old weatherstripping that may be present. The surface needs to be clean and smooth for the new seal to do its job.
4 Once the area has dried completely, start at one end of the window and slowly peel a small section of the backing off the weatherstripping material. Press the strip in place.
5 Slowly make your way across the bottom of the frame, removing only about 6 to 8 inches of backing at a time. Also, be careful not to stretch the foam or it will lose some of its ability to seal the gap!
6 Continue along the entire length of the window, being sure to smooth out any lumps or bumps.
7 Just as an insurance policy, I like to run a second strip of foam on the leading edge of the frame. This gives me two lines of protection against air leakage. Apply the second strip in the same manner as the first.
8 To give yourself a sense of accomplishment (and to see how well you did the job), you can test the area again for leaks using your favorite method. If you still see signs of air movement, make sure the weatherstripping material has adhered correctly.
Weather-sealing Windows & Doors
Once windows and doors are properly weathestripped, take a look at the trim molding. Remember, this stuff is used to hide gaps and cracks, not seal them! And if the builder didn’t do it, it’s up to you to make sure you’re not letting your store-bought air (as my dad says) outside!
Even small cracks like the one above can allow enough air movement to cause energy loss. Spaces like the one shown at right really need to be filled! Small cracks are a simple job to repair. As a matter of fact, a whole industry was created around just such a project. It’s called caulk, and second to duct tape, it’s a DIYer’s best friend!
Inspect the area where the trim meets the wall and where it’s fastened to the frame of the door or window. Generally speaking, the area between the trim and window frame or doorframe is likely sealed after years of being painted, but along the wall could be a different story!
Choosing the Right Tools
Be sure to choose the right caulk for your needs. It comes in different colors and several different formulas for use inside and out. I recommend looking for one that’s easily cleaned up with water, is paintable and waterproof.
I accidentally used a silicone caulk on a ceiling repair once and didn’t notice it wasn’t paintable. Take it from me, once it sets, caulk is one of the toughest substances I know of to remove from a painted wall. Double-check those labels!
ALL CAULK GUNS ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL
I also recommend buying a quality caulk gun. A standard gun can cost as little as $5 or $6. For about $10, you can get a tool that will last for several years around your house and be a lot less aggravating to operate. It’s well worth the $5 upgrade.
The difference is in the drive mechanism. The less expensive models work on a friction lever concept. After awhile the lever tends to slip. That results in uneven caulk beads and a general sense of frustration when the tool you paid good money for stops doing its job!
You should be able to find a caulk gun with a geared mechanism for around $10. The gear system operates much more reliably over a longer period of time in my experience. I’ve had one of these for several years and it’s served me well…even after a couple falls off a ladder (the caulk gun — not me!).
To Avoid a Mess
When you’re using any caulk gun, remember to disengage the drive once you’re done laying out the caulk bead. Not doing so will cause the gun to continue to operate. This can result in a messy situation on your floor or worse.
To disengage the plunger on caulk guns like this one, you simply turn the lever on the back 90 degrees. This will turn the gear mechanism and stop the flow of caulk.
I forgot to do this once while taping a segment for a show on DIY Network. The resulting mess (fortunately, it happened out of sight of the camera) didn’t go over well with the guys who had to clean it up! They have my gratitude.
Filling Small Spaces
A job well done starts with the right size caulk bead. The right size caulk bead starts with the proper cut on the end of the caulk tube. Even though my caulk gun has a built-in cutter, I prefer to use a utility knife to make the cut. The cutter on the tool gets dull over time and can mash the tip on the tube. It may seem like a small thing, but you know what they say about the details!
1 Cut just enough off the tip of the tube to create about a 
opening in the end. It’s better to cut the hole a little small and then cut more than it is to overcut the tip to begin with — for obvious reasons. A slight angle will help when it comes time to apply.
2 For the small gaps along the side of the trim, simply apply a thin bead of caulk. Start at the top of the opening with the caulk gun angled slightly. This will allow you to “pull” the bead down the trim. It should be about 
"-wide along the length of the opening. Squeeze the trigger gently and move the tube along at the same time, keeping an even steady pace.
Notice in the two photos above that there are gaps in the bead. This can happen if there’s air in the tube or if consistent, even pressure isn’t applied along the length of the bead. No worries…it’s actually preferable to the situation on the right.
RIGHT WAY
3 Too much caulk can turn into a big mess in a hurry! If this happens, you can still use your finger as described in the next step. You’ll just need to follow it up with a damp rag to remove the excess.
In either case, dampen your finger and smooth the caulk along the seam. This forces the material down into the gap to seal it. With a nice small bead, your finger will act as a kind of plow, pushing the excess caulk farther down the seam.
It’s not the end of the world if you apply too much caulk; it’s simply a waste of money. And the whole point of this book is to save some cash! If you really want to be resourceful, you can scoop up the excess and use it on the next doorframe or window frame.
You can use a damp rag to wipe down the repair if you applied too much. Then, use your finger again to smooth the seam.
Be sure to smooth the caulk as much as you can without wiping it all off. If you leave lumps or blobs behind, they’ll be very difficult to remove after the material has cured.
NOT SO RIGHT WAY
Here’s what it looks like when someone does a sloppy job and then doesn’t clean it up. The culprit would be me and that doorframe is in my house. I remember the day I did the job; I was thinking I needed to wipe down the area and then the phone rang. The rest is history. It’ll get fixed…someday. Meanwhile, once the caulk on your repair has dried, a little touch-up paint will make the spot look good as new.
CLEAN-UP TIP
Be sure to immediately wash any rags that you want to keep and reuse. The caulk will wash out until it cures, then it becomes one with the fibers of the rag and you’ve created more of a scrunge — great for cleaning the sink, but not much else.
To keep the rest of the caulk in the tube from drying out too soon, wipe the top of the tube clean and use a small piece of duct tape to seal the opening. Just fold it over onto itself to make a seal. This will prevent air from getting in and drying it out. Don’t expect it to last forever like this, but you’ll get a couple months’ storage using this technique.
Filling the Big Gaps
For the larger gaps, spray foam insulation is the answer. It can fill a larger area than caulk and stop the airflow just as well. Be sure to use a minimally expanding version of the product or you could end up with a huge mess on your hands! The packaging is clearly marked for doors and windows, so be sure to look for it!
Also, when working with this foam, be sure to follow all the label instructions and precautions. This stuff is STICKY. That’s the good and bad news. It will stick to just about any repair job. However, it will also stick to your clothes, carpet, hair…you name it. And it’s not easy to get out. So, forewarned is forearmed!
1 Protect the floor around the repair if you’re inside. A perfect use for last Sunday’s newspaper. Then insert the tip into the gap and s…l…o…w…l…y squeeze the trigger. You only need to fill the gap half full. The expansion of the foam will take care of the rest.
2 Here’s the thing about spray foam insulation: Once you open it, you have to finish it. Once air gets down inside the tube and nozzle, the foam inside will begin to cure. Once that happens, the party’s over. For that reason, you might want to have a few other things planned for the foam before you start.
Yes, I know this is a section on windows and doors, but think about that outdoor spigot that needs sealing around its perimeter. Or maybe some cable wire or plumbing penetrations into your house.
3 Wait until the foam cures (sometimes as little as 30 minutes, depending on conditions) to remove the excess. It will become firm to the touch, but won’t be sticky anymore. It also yields under light pressure.
4 A sharp utility knife will trim the excess foam and leave an airtight repair. Once this area is painted, the only thing missing will be the draft that used to blow through the gap. Taking the time to fill and repair all the gaps and cracks around your windows and doors can pay off in the long run. By making these repairs, you’re helping to close what’s called the “building envelope.” That means that your home HVAC system doesn’t have to work as hard to keep the home warm or cool because less outside air is getting inside and vice versa. It’s a simple concept that can truly lower your energy bills if you do it right.
Securing the Perimeter
…of your door, that is. The rule of thumb is that if you can see daylight around your door, you need some weatherstripping. Newer doors have built-in protection integrated into the door jamb itself. However, in older homes (and sometimes even those new ones), an additional layer of protection is needed to prevent drafts.
This door leads from a shop that isn’t temperature controlled to the living space in the house. When the door is closed, it’s clear that the gap between the door and the jamb can let air (and in this case, sawdust) into the house. That means not only is this door responsible for energy loss, but excess vacuuming as well. Taken to the extreme, that’s additional electricity for the vacuum. I’m reaching, but you get the point. Sealing the perimeter of doors like this makes sense when we’re trying to save energy.
1 Weatherstripping comes in different shapes and styles, but my favorite is made with a rigid aluminum bar and has a rubber gasket incorporated. It’s the easiest to install and I think gives superior protection from both air and water infiltration. The rubber gasket compresses when the door is closed, effectively sealing the door to the outside elements. It’s generally sold in three-piece kits — one for each side of the door and one for the top edge.
2 The sides generally don’t need to be cut for standard doors. If you find that your doorframe is shorter than the length of weatherstripping, use a hacksaw to cut through the aluminum and a utility knife to make a clean cut in the runner gasket.
3 To install, close the door and place the strip firmly against it, lining it up on the jamb molding.
4 Then use a pencil or an awl to mark the location of each of the screw holes, being sure to press the strip against the door along its length. This will ensure a snug fit. Try to center the mark in the hole as best you can. Since the holes are elongated to allow for fine adjustment of the strip (which we’ll cover in a moment), it’s easy to angle the pencil and get an incorrect mark.
5 Remove the strip and use a drill and a 
" drill bit to make pilot holes for the screws. This step will be easier with the door open.
6 When you’re finished drilling all the pilot holes for both sides of the door, line the strip up again and install the screws loosely at this point. Don’t drive them all the way home!
7 Now, close the door and use moderate pressure to fit the rubber gasket snugly up against it. You want the gasket to compress about halfway. Again, this is to make sure we have a tight seal! Too much compression will eventually damage the gasket and make the door hard to close as well! Install the hinge side strip in the same manner.
8 The last step is to install the top strip. Simply measure between the two strips already installed using a tape measure. Be sure to get an accurate measurement. You want the top strip to fit snugly between the two sides. It’s best to make your first cut a little on the long side and then trim from there. Once you cut it too short, you’re sunk.
9 Cut the strip to length using the hacksaw and knife, then install the screws and test fit. Cut properly, the strip should fit snugly against one side and slide into place against the opposite strip with gentle pressure. Open and close the door a few times and make any adjustments necessary. If the door is too hard to close, simply loosen the screws and slide the strip away from the door slightly until it latches without too much pressure. Once the door is closed, you shouldn’t see a gap between the strip and the surface of the door. If you do, readjust the strips until the gap is gone.
Closing the Gap
That takes care of three sides of the door. Now, what about the bottom? That needs a good seal as well to complete the job.
Remember, if you can see light between the door and the threshold, you have an energy drain on your hands.
Door sweeps or threshold seals, as they’re called, are easy to install as well. They have the added benefit of looking (and working) much better than a rolled-up towel placed along the bottom of the door to prevent drafts.
In the photo on the right below, you can see how it works. The rubber fins create a tight seal against the wood strip of the threshold.
A metal framework with an integrated gasket fits snugly against the threshold when the door is closed. The fins adjust to any irregularities in the threshold creating a good seal along the entire width.
The additional drip-edge incorporated into this sweep causes any water that hits the surface of the door to roll out and away from the bottom, preventing it from wicking up inside the wood or into your home. This is the perfect style for exterior doors without overhangs, to prevent rain from hitting the door. On the right above, you can see what happens to a door when it’s left unprotected from moisture. The laminated surface on this door has begun splitting and peeling. The drip-edge helps prevent damage like this from occurring to your door!
1 Drip-edges often come in several lengths, so measure the width of your door and purchase the sweep that comes closest to its measurement, without going under. Next, cut the metal frame to match the width of the door using a hacksaw. To make this step easier, try clamping the metal to a scrap piece of wood. This will stabilize the metal frame and make the cut smoother and faster.
2 Use a pair of scissors or snips to cut the rubber gasket to the same length and slide it back into the channel on the frame.
3 Next, slide the seal under the door. Hold it in place while you close the door. Be sure that the sweep contacts the threshold and that the frame clears the stops on both sides.
4 You may need to trim a small section of the drip-edge to clear the doorstop molding. That’s been my experience with the ones I’ve installed. It’s a simple cut. Just mark where the drip edge contacts the stop molding and use a hacksaw to cut a small section of the metal.
5 After removing the gasket, secure the metal to the scrap wood and make the first cut along the drip-edge side. Then, cut the metal laterally with the saw and remove the cut section. Be careful….this metal can be sharp after you cut it. Wear gloves when handling the cut edges!
6 To complete the installation, with the door closed and the sweep in place, mark the locations for the screws using a pencil. Remember to center the marks so that the pilot holes will be properly positioned to make adjustment of the seal possible. Drill pilot holes and install the screws loosely. Close the door with the seal in place. Once you’ve made sure the gasket is in place all along the width of the threshold, tighten the screws to secure the seal. One issue you may run into after a few weeks or months is the gasket sliding out of the metal channel. Friction can cause it to creep out over time. The simple fix is to apply a small dab of glue or rubber cement to the gasket and push it back into the channel.
7 Why go to this extra trouble instead of simply cutting the entire frame and gasket shorter? By cutting this section out and leaving the bottom intact, the frame can now fit around the molding and weatherstripping, but we haven’t sacrificed any of the sealing ability of the gasket along the threshold. It’s all about getting the most protection possible against energy loss! Notice how the drip edge extends all the way to the weatherstripping, giving the door complete protection against water infiltration as well!
Installing Window Film
Standing next to a window in a recently built home, you’d have a hard time telling what the temperature outside is. Modern windows are well insulated and have a slew of features that make them more energy efficient.
Stand next to a window in a home built just a few decades ago and you can really feel the difference. On a summer day, the heat and UV rays pass right through the old glass, heating up the interior of the house and fading the furniture at the same time!
In the winter, you can almost feel the chilly breeze on your skin. Older windows simply aren’t designed to keep the heat and harmful rays of the sun where they belong — outside!
The real solution, of course, is to replace your old leaky windows with new energy-efficient replacement windows (how many times have you heard that ad on TV?). Unfortunately, for a lot of people, that’s just not practical. And in some cases, not even necessary to accomplish the job of preventing heat buildup and energy loss.
I had window film installed in an older home I lived in a few years ago. At that time, window tinting kits were harder to find and not the easiest project to tackle, so I opted for a professional installation. The windows on the west-facing side of the house let in a ton of light and heat in the afternoon. The bedroom and office there got uncomfortably warm and I needed a quick, cheap solution.
The AC just couldn’t keep the rooms cool enough, and I was tired of falling asleep at my desk! I like my workspaces nice and cool (cold, most people would tell you who’ve ever worked with me in a TV studio — I’ve seen the crew wear parkas when I was in a short-sleeved shirt!).
After the installation, the rooms were noticeably cooler. The filtered light through the tinting was actually more pleasant — not so blinding. While the tint was definitely less expensive than replacement windows, the fix still cost a few bucks. It did have the added benefit of cutting down on cooling costs, though.
Now, years later, window-tinting kits are available at just about every home improvement store for a fraction of what I paid to have it done. They’re pretty easy to use and come with complete instructions. And it may just be me, but I’d swear the tint film is easier to wrangle than it was way back.
This installation is on a set of garage doors that face east. On summer mornings, sunlight blasts through the windows and heats up the garage. The heat rises and raises the temperature in the bedroom above. The quick and easy solution? Install window tint to cut down on some of that heat transference into the garage. That should keep the bedroom at least a little cooler and help cut down on the air conditioning bill.
The first step was to get the windows clean enough to apply the film. Sure, dirt acts as a nice filter for sunlight, but it gets in the way of proper adhesion!
Like painting walls and trim, preparation in this project is key. If you don’t start out with a clean, clear window, your results will be less than perfect.
1 Start by using a garden hose or a bucket and sponge if your windows are as dirty as these. That’ll help get the thick stuff off. Even though we’ll be adding the film to the inside of the glass, this is the perfect time to get the windows their cleanest.
2 Use window cleaner and shop towels (I like them better than paper towels because they hold up better in tough jobs and don’t leave flakes and fibers) to give the inside and outside of the windows a good scrubbing. Here’s an old trick for tracking down stubborn streaks and smudges on windows: clean the outside of the pane with horizontal strokes and the inside with vertical. That way, when you see a mark, you can tell which side of the glass it’s on.
3 Once the thickest of the dirt and grime was removed, the windows were still…dirty. You may have this problem, as well — hard water deposits and mineral buildup. Over the years, and especially if you have errant sprinklers that douse your windows, the deposits can get nasty. The solution that works best for me is vinegar. Pour some on a rag or use it in a spray bottle and give the windows a second go-over. You will see a difference immediately. The acidic vinegar cuts right through the buildup. Let it dry and repeat this step if necessary.
4 Once you get the glass clean, you’re not done. Again, you know what they say about details. Now we need to look for specks and spots. Not much fun, but a must-do. If not removed, they’ll cause lumps and bumps in the tint — not what you want! Use a razor scraper to remove any foreign material on the glass surface. Again, this is more important on the inside of the glass, but it’s a good time to take care of the outside as well.
5 The edges of the glass need special attention to ensure a smooth-looking tint. If there’s too much crud in the corners, the tint could begin to peel up. To avoid that, use the razor scraper to get rid of paint and grime along the perimeter of the frame. Then use a rag to wipe it clean.
6 Also, be sure to look for stickers or remnants of decals that may be on your window. This one had faded so badly that it was nearly transparent and difficult to see. Because it was on the inside of the window where the tint was to be applied, it had to go! Use the scraper to remove as much as possible, then use an adhesive remover or paint thinner to get rid of the residue.
7 OK, so you think your window’s clean enough? It’s not. To make sure your film adheres as it should, use the glass cleaner that comes with the installation kit. It’s designed to remove any trace residue of all the fluids and cleaners we’ve used to this point.
8 The kit also contains a squeegee for the final cleaning and to install the film. Hold it at a slightly downward angle and pull it from top to bottom, using moderate pressure. Work side to side until the window is completely dry. You might want to use your finger on top of the blade to add pressure if needed. The rubber blade will push the cleaning solution and any contaminants to the bottom of the window. Use a rag to wipe the residue from the window frame, then wipe the blade clean and continue.
Here’s a look at the windows before and after the cleaning. What a difference! Who knew there were trees outside!
9 Before you start to unroll the tint, be sure you have a large, clean surface to work from. It’s important to be able to unroll the film without it becoming contaminated with dirt and other foreign matter. I’m using a sheet of plywood that I’ve vacuumed for a clean work surface. Lay out your tools so you’ll know right where to find them.
10 Next, measure the glass in the window. Once you know the height and width, add at least an inch to those measurements. This will be the size you’ll cut the tint. Cutting it larger than the window will allow you to trim it to the exact size once it’s in place.
11 Before you unroll the tint, take a look at one corner and you’ll notice a protective layer laminated to one side. We’ll be removing this layer prior to installation, so it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with it beforehand. The easiest way to remove it is with two small pieces of Scotch tape. Apply a piece to opposite sides of the film and pull apart with gentle pressure. The backing layer should separate fairly easily from the tint. The tint itself is sticky to the touch. This adhesive is what holds the film to the window. Be very careful not to let the film fold over on itself and keep it away from dust and other particles that could get stuck to its surface.
12 Once you’re comfortable working with the film, unroll enough to cut the first piece. In this case, we’re cutting ours to about 24 inches square. Use a long straightedge to make the cut with a utility knife. The knife comes with the installation kit; the straightedge doesn’t. I used a drywall t-square, but a yardstick, level or a simple length of trim molding will work. Be sure not to scratch the surface of the film when you’re working with it! Use firm, even pressure when making the cut. Apply downward pressure on the straightedge to hold the film in place.
13 Once you’ve cut the tint to size, separate the film from the backing using the method described earlier. You may find it easier to have someone help you with this process. With two people, each of you can hold two corners of each layer and pull them apart evenly. Once separated from the backing, the film needs to be sprayed with the application solution, as does the window itself. Again, if you’re working alone, it might be easier to simply hang the film using the taped corners. This worked perfectly in this project. I hung it below the window and was able to spray both at the same time. Be sure to hang the sticky side out!
14 Once the film and the window are sufficiently doused with the spray, carefully lift the film and apply the sticky side to the glass. Because both are wet, the film should slide easily on the glass. Get it centered on the window before moving onto the next step.
15 Spray the film again with the solution. The key to a successful installation is to keep the film wet as you smooth it using the squeegee.
16 Again, use gentle pressure to work out any air bubbles under the film. Pull the bubble to the closest edge using the rubber blade. Remember to keep the film and the rubber blade wet for the best performance.
17 Once the film is reasonably smooth, it’s time for a trim. The nice thing about getting the installation kit is that it comes with a nifty little plastic gadget designed to make cutting corners easy (and a good thing in this case). It fits into each corner and has slots cut out for the blade. Just slide the razor along the slots and vo-ee-la (as a director I once worked with loved to say), you have a perfectly cut corner.
18 It also works for trimming the sides of the film along the edge of the window frame. If you don’t have one of these cool little tools, you can use a credit card or small ruler.
19 Once the film is cut, gently pull the excess away. Remove the strips slowly to keep from pulling the film off the glass. Use the razor knife to cut any stubborn spots — don’t try to tear the film!
20 The small gap along the edge is necessary for a couple of reasons. First, it allows for thermal expansion of the glass (yup…it moves). And second, the gap will allow you to push air bubbles out in the next step. Wet the film again and use the rubber squeegee to push any remaining air bubbles out. You can move from side to side, or up and down, or a combination of both to move the air bubbles to the nearest exit. Just be sure to get all the air out and be careful not to shift the film on the window.
21 The good news is….we’re done with one window! Now, only 7 more to go in this project. Here’s what the final comparison looked like on this garage. What a difference! I love projects that give you immediate gratification. It makes all the work worth it. Plus, this project can lead to real energy savings when it’s done. According to the manufacturer of this film, it’s designed to last upwards of 10 years, making it a very worthwhile investment in time and money.
Insulating a Water Heater
One of the easiest ways to save money on your energy bill is to stop heat loss from your water heater. If it sits in a space that isn’t climate controlled, your water heater can be a big drain on your wallet. Typically, a water heater insulation kit costs under $25, but can pay back big dividends simply by keeping the heat inside the heater where it belongs! The water heater shown here sits in the corner of an unconditioned garage/basement. Because of its location, it has the potential to cost the homeowner money simply by losing heat to the outside air, especially in the cold winter months. It’s the perfect candidate for a blanket of insulation!
Water heaters installed in temperature-controlled spaces are less likely to lose energy through heat transference, but they can still benefit from having additional insulation!
Above is a standard-size insulation blanket available at most stores that stock insulation. It measures 48" long by 75" wide. It will be perfect for our project.
1 First, measure your water heater top to bottom to make sure you purchase a blanket that will fit. Since the tanks come in different shapes and sizes, it’s important to have the information on hand when you go to the hardware store.
2 Lay the blanket out on a clean surface to cut it to length. You’ll need a straightedge — I’m using a drywall square — and a sharp utility knife. Be sure to orient the blanket so that you’re cutting the proper dimension. It’s a good idea to test fit the blanket so that you know you’ll have enough material to go all the way around! I’ve made this mistake in the past, and this is a perfect time to remember the old adage: “Measure twice…cut once!”
3 It’s also possible that you won’t have to cut any off the length, so again, be careful on this step! Once the material is cut to length, wrap it around the heater and mark the spot where it overlaps itself. Be sure not to pull the blanket too tight. The insulation needs to remain in its “expanded” form to properly insulate the tank.
4 Then, lay the blanket out on the clean surface once again and use the straightedge to cut the width along the edge where you made the mark. Again, be careful to keep a consistent line along the entire length of the material.
5 Once the blanket is cut to the proper width, again wrap it around the heater and use two or three short pieces of tape to hold it in place. A piece at the top, halfway down and near the bottom should do the trick. During this step, make a mental note of where you’ll need to cut around the thermostat access panels and overflow valve. You might even want to make a small mark on the outside of the blanket to help you remember where they’re located. Once the blanket is in place, it can be difficult to remember where those cutouts need to be!
6 Now, locate the overflow valve and use the utility knife to cut the insulation around it. Use just enough pressure to cut through the jacket and the insulation and cut within a half inch or so of the valve. Don’t worry if the cutout isn’t perfect. It just has to be functional and allow access to the valve. Notice that we’re installing the blanket on a newly installed heater. It doesn’t have the overflow tube installed yet, which makes wrapping the blanket around the tank much easier. If your tank has the overflow installed, be sure to slide the blanket underneath the pipe.
7 Next, cut the blanket around the thermostat access panels. You should trim the blanket to clear the panels about a half inch on each side. Again, neatness isn’t crucial here, but do your best! You may also have to cut around the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, depending on how large your tank and blanket are. Just use common sense.
8 When you’re done, the blanket should look something like this. Your heater may have only one thermostat access panel, in which case you’d have one less opening.
9 Once all the cutouts are complete, it’s time to secure the seam on the side of the tank. Gently pull the two sides together and use a length of tape long enough to run the entire height of the blanket, closing up the seam. This step might be easier if you have a friend helping. One of you can hold the seam closed while the other applies the tape. If you have any favors to call in, this may be the time to do it! You’ll find out who your real friends are!
10 Finally, to secure the top of the blanket to the tank, you can simply fold the jacket material over itself and tape in place. I like to make the installation a little neater by cutting slits about every 6" along the top of the tank, creating flaps. Then each of the flaps will fold neatly onto the top of the tank, where you can tape them in place.
11 If you have excess insulation left over from your initial cut, you can use it on the top of the water heater to add an additional layer of protection against heat loss. Otherwise, you can consider your work here done! If you listen closely, you can almost hear the money you’re saving by keeping those energy dollars hard at work inside the tank!
Insulating Water Pipes
Now that you’ve completed the first step in saving money by making sure your water heater has the proper winter coat (it works just as well during the summer, by the way), let’s move on down the line, so to speak.
Think about it…the water that’s been heated in the tank is all set to move to your bath or kitchen faucet — through cold, uninsulated pipes! That means all those energy dollars you just saved could be disappearing into thin air. The good news? There’s a pretty easy way to keep that from happening, or at least cut down on the amount of energy lost while the water reaches its destination.
Depending on where your pipes are located, it might be a good idea to insulate both the hot and cold water lines. That’s especially true if the pipes are in your garage or crawl space and you live in an area where cold winter temperatures might cause the pipes to freeze. This is one of the least expensive insurance policies you can buy.
We’ll focus on the hot water line coming from the water heater in this project. If you decide to do your cold water lines, it’s the same process.
There are a couple of different options when it comes to foam pipe insulation. My favorite has built-in adhesive strips in the seam. The adhesive is covered by protective plastic that is easily removed once the insulation is in place. Don’t make the mistake of taking this plastic off before you install the tubes. Once it adheres to itself, it can be tougher than Krazy-Glued fingers to get unstuck!
We’ll tackle the pipe one section at a time, measuring and cutting lengths of insulation to fit perfectly.
1 Measure the length of the pipe coming from the top of the water heater. Since we’re mitering the joints, you’ll need to measure just beyond the union of the two pipes. The photo on the left above gives you an overall view of the pipes we’ll be insulating. On the right, you can see the first section that we’ll be working with.
2 We measured and cut a section of insulation that would cover the joints at each end of the short section. The insulation is easily cut with an ordinary pair of scissors or a utility knife.
3 Notice we cut this piece at a 45 degree angle so that it would form a miter joint when the next piece is attached. You don’t have to get out the miter gauge to get the exact measurement. A good old-fashioned eyeballing should do the trick.
4 The next step is to slip the insulation around the pipe. Once it’s in place, grasp the protective plastic covers and remove, then press the two adhesive sides together for a snug fit. Notice in the second picture that the insulation does not completely wrap around the pipe union. The simple solution is to use the scraps left over from the miter cut and place them in the gap. If oriented correctly, they should fit almost perfectly. Once in place, wrap the area with duct tape to secure in place.
5 Next, measure from the miter you just completed to the end of the pipe, or at least to the next joint if it doesn’t continue in a straight line. Then cut and install another section of insulation in the same manner as the first.
6 To secure the joint, use a strap of duct tape over the top of the second piece of insulation and down the sides of the first. This will lock the two pieces together to prevent the joint from slipping.
7 Since our water heater is in the garage, we decided to insulate the cold water supply line as well. The process is the same, but here’s a trick when it comes to connecting insulation at 90 degree angles for a clean, professional look. Cut a small section from the length of insulation where it meets the 90 degree joint. This is easily done with a pair of scissors.
8 Then, cut the insulation that will be butting up to this piece in a “V” shape. Again, a simple cut with scissors. Note that the adhesive strip runs along the long side of the “V.” This will allow it to more easily fit over the valve stem on the line, visible at the far right in the photos below.
9 Finally, another short piece of duct tape will keep the joint from separating. Remember that the entire length of pipe in exposed areas needs to be insulated for the job to be effective. It’s a simple project that, when combined with insulating your water heater, can really add up in energy savings over time.
Installing a Programmable Thermostat
One of the simplest, least expensive and fastest ways to start saving energy dollars immediately is by installing a programmable thermostat to control your home’s HVAC system. Not only can it take the bite out of high utility bills, but it can actually solve arguments over who gets to control the temperature of the house. OK, that last point may be a stretch because someone will still have to decide what temperature to set the thermostat to, but from there, it’s “set it and forget it!”
A programmable thermostat saves money by preventing the wasteful use of energy to cool or heat your home when nobody’s there. In the winter, you can set the thermostat to a lower temperature overnight, saving you the cost of heating the house while everyone’s asleep. Personally, I love a cold, dark bedroom to sleep in, but in the morning, it’s nice to get out of bed to a warmer room.
Basically, the thermostat can think ahead for you and begin to heat the house an hour or so before you get up. That way, you wake to a nice, comfortable home. At night, about an hour before you’re ready for bed, the thermostat can turn the heat down to let the house cool gradually.
In the summer, the opposite is true. While you’re at work, the thermostat automatically raises the temperature of the system so you’re not paying to cool a home that no one’s enjoying. But it’ll make sure you come home to a cooler house by starting the cooling process before you get there.
It all works through the magic of electronic circuitry, and the best part is — you can buy one for under $40 that’ll do everything you need it to! That money can be made up in no time by saving you those wasted energy dollars.
1 To begin, locate your home’s thermostat and set it to the “Off” position. Wait until you hear the unit shut off if it was running.
2 Most thermostats simply snap off the backing plate screwed to the wall. You may need to use a small screwdriver to pry it from the plate. Be gentle, though, to avoid breaking the small wires connected to the unit. In some older homes, the wires may be attached to the thermostat itself instead of the connection shown here. In any case, they all work to send signals to the main HVAC unit to trigger it On and Off.
3 Next, remove the screws holding the wires to the wall mounting plate. Be sure to note any markings on the terminals and which colored wires were connected to each. It’s a good idea to take a digital picture at this point in case you need to refer back to it. If the thermostat you purchased came with wire coding stickers, use them at this point so you can readily identify the wires during the next few steps.
4 There will likely be two or three screws that need to be removed and these should be fairly obvious to your eye. Once you have removed them all, gently pry the mounting plate from the wall. You might need to score around the outside of the plate to cut through any paint buildup. Don’t force the plate off or you could end up with a drywall repair job at the same time!
5 In our project, we found a dual-plate system (above). Both need to be removed. That left us with some paint touch-up to do. You may find yourself in the same boat, but this is the best time to tackle that side project so you don’t have to remove the new thermostat to make the repair!
6 A hair dryer will help dry the paint faster and speed up the job.
7 Next, follow the instructions that came with your new thermostat by installing the new mounting plate. Align it on the wall, pull the wires through the appropriate opening and drill a pilot hole for the mounting screws. If you’re lucky enough to hit a stud, you won’t need to use wall anchors. You can use a small level if you absolutely, positively have to have the plate perfectly level on your wall. However, I’d say trust your eye and you should be able to get it close to perfect without one! Then, install the rest of the mounting screws.
8 Once all the screws are installed, it’s time to reconnect the wires. Your new thermostat will have detailed instructions on where to connect them, but the new unit will likely have color-coded terminals that match the colors of your existing wires. You may also need to straighten the wires for some terminals with a small pair of pliers. These small gauge wires are easily broken, so be gentle during this step, especially if there’s not much wire to work with coming out of the wall.
9 Once all the wires are connected, the next step is to make any necessary adjustments on the internal controls of the thermostat. One of the most important adjustments to be made is setting the “heating energy source” switch to the correct position. If your heating system uses gas, the switch in this case needs to remain in the “HG” position. If your system utilizes electricity for the heating function, the switch must be slid to the “HE” position. If you’re not sure which type of system yours is, be sure to call a professional to identify it before completing the thermostat installation.
10 Finally, some programmable thermostats today offer a “Recovery Mode” option. Basically, this allows the thermostat to gradually change the temperature in your home, rather than trying to make the change all at once. The logic behind the feature is simple — think of it in terms of driving a car. You’ve long heard the lessons about not making “jackrabbit” starts when you drive. They waste gas. The same is true for your HVAC system when it needs to make a temperature adjustment in your home. Making the change gradually will, in theory, use less energy than trying to make the temperature jump all at once. Now that you know the reasoning, just be sure to check the instructions on your thermostat and look for the small switch on the back. Set “Recovery Mode” to the “Enable” position to avoid those jackrabbit temperature changes. The switch simply slides into place with light pressure. My suggestion is this: Try the thermostat in “Recovery Mode” for a couple of months and then disable the function for another couple. If you see a difference in your utility bills, you can decide whether or not you want to utilize the feature.
11 Once the thermostat is set to your liking, it simply snaps in place on the mounting plate. Usually, it slides over mounting studs along the top of the plate, then gentle pressure is used to finish the installation.
12 Next, lift the front cover and install the correct batteries. Be sure to note which way to orient the polarity to avoid any possible damage to the unit!
13 Finally, you can program the thermostat now and let the energy savings begin! And don’t be intimidated by all the buttons and numbers. Most thermostats like this one give you the option of having one schedule throughout the week and a separate schedule on the weekend. That way, since your home is more likely to be occupied more hours during the day on the weekend (unless you’re a workaholic), you can set the program to make fewer changes. In other words, once it begins cooling or heating the house in the early morning hours, it doesn’t necessarily have to make another temperature change until you retire for the night.
Installing a Motion Sensor Light Switch
“Turn off the lights when you leave a room!”
How many times did we hear that as kids or yell it as parents? Not sure I know how to count that high, really… Not that it ever made any difference when it was yelled at me, anyway! I’m betting it was somebody’s whizbang engineer of a dad who finally got fed up and invented the motion sensor light switch. What a brilliant idea!
The truth is, turning off the lights in an unoccupied room saves energy and saves money. That’s the bottom line. Dead men tell no tales and dark bulbs use no energy. So, if you’re sick and tired of yelling at the kids or simply forgetting to flip the switch yourself, this is your dream project!
A motion sensor switch works by sensing changes in heat or movement in a room. It can tell when someone has walked into a space and immediately turns the lights on. Once the room is empty, or at least until the device senses no more movement for a period of time, it can be set to turn the switch off.
Usually switches like this come with just about everything needed for the installation and well-detailed instructions for less than $20.
Also, be sure to check the packaging to make sure the switch will control fluorescent light fixtures. Some are designed specifically for this purpose, while others can actually be damaged or damage the light fixture if installed.
Most switches of this type allow you to set the sensitivity to movement so that small pets don’t run around turning your lights on in the middle of the night. They also allow you to set the duration of their “On” time. Most range anywhere from five minutes to an hour.
Think of them not only in terms of saving energy, but of offering you convenience. Your hands are full with groceries, boxes, kids, you name it…and the motion sensor switch will automatically turn the lights on for you.
Installing one of these in a walk-in closet is a great idea. Even a kid’s playroom makes sense. I installed this one in a storage area of my shop. That way, I don’t have to yell at me for leaving the lights on!
1 The first step in this project is to turn the power to the circuit off at the breaker panel. Then, use a piece of painter’s tape as a sign to anyone who might accidentally turn the breaker on while you’re working. Better safe than sorry!
2 Then, turn the switch to the “On” position. Most likely, if you turned off the correct breaker, the lights won’t come on. That’s good. But not enough precaution! The next step may seem unnecessary, but when you’re working with electricity, it’s wise to work with the Department of Redundancy Department. Unlike plumbing, where finding out you accidentally left the water on in the middle of a project can cause a horrible mess and cost you some cash when things get soaked, discovering you left the electricity on can cost you your life. Okay, let me jump down off my soapbox and let’s continue.
3 Remove the two screws and the switch-plate. Next, remove the two screws holding the switch to the electrical box. Although the power is “presumably” off, be very careful not to let the screwdriver slide into the area where the wires are connected to the switch. Again, better safe than sorry.
4 Next, gently pull the switch out and away from the box, exposing the wires attached to it. Be gentle pulling the switch out. Sometimes, there’s very little excess wire to work with inside the box — don’t force it and risk breaking a wire.
5 Use a circuit tester to make sure there’s no current running to the switch before moving on to the next step. There are a number of different testers available. This one is simple to use. Just touch the probes to the appropriate wires and if electricity is present, a small lamp will glow in the tester, as you can see in the photo on the left. Since the lamp remained dark (photo above) I’m confident there’s no electricity running through the switch.
6 The next step is to loosen the terminal screws holding the wires in place. Also, remove the ground screw if one is present. It will be a bare copper wire attached to the grounding terminal of the switch. Once I removed the switch from this box, I found the ground wire tucked in the back of the box. Someone had done some sloppy electrical work in the past. It’s amazing the mistakes and shortcuts you’ll find others have taken when you start tackling home improvement projects. The nice thing is that you get the satisfaction of knowing you corrected the problem and truly made an “improvement” over a potentially unsafe situation!
7 Next, be sure each of the wires is bent straight and that the black and white wires have only about one half inch of bare copper showing. Use a pair of pliers to straighten the wires if necessary.
8 The new switch has 3 wires attached. One of them is the ground wire and the other 2 connect to the hot and neutral (black and white) wires.
9 Twist the green ground wire together with the bare copper coming from the electrical box. Use a wire nut to secure the connection. The next step is the extra mile I like to go every time I’m working with electricity. You can never be too rich, too good-looking or too careful when it comes to electrical current. To prevent the connections from coming apart inside the box and posing a potential hazard, I like to wrap each connection with electrical tape. Because electrical tape is rather elastic, it tends to pull back on itself when wrapped around an object. Because of that tendency to stretch back to its original state, wrap the connection in a counterclockwise (looking down at the top of the wire nut) direction. This way, it will tend to tighten the connection rather than working against it. Be sure to wrap both the nut and the wires, thereby giving the connection another layer of security against coming loose.
10 Repeat this process with the remaining two wires, being sure to follow any special instructions that came with the switch!
11 Next, tuck the wires back into the electrical box and press the switch into place. Use the screws from the old switch to secure the new one if there were no screws in the new packaging.
12 Before installing the cover, check the instructions that came with the switch. You’ll find a small cover on the front that when removed, reveals the controls for sensitivity and duration. You need to decide what settings are best for your application. I generally have the lights in my storage area shut off after about 5 minutes. That seems to be plenty of time to get in and get out.
13 Once you’ve made the adjustments, replace the panel and install the switch cover using the screws provided. Turn the switch to the “Off” position and turn the breaker to the circuit back on. Then set the switch to “Auto” and watch your energy savings add up! You may find that you need to adjust the settings on your switch after a few days. You can fine-tune it so that it fits your needs perfectly.
Sealing Outlets & Switch Plates
They seem so small and innocent, but in larger numbers, outlets and switch plates can be energy thieves.
Think of each one as being a hole venting directly to the outside of your home…and it could be as big as half an inch! When you add up the number of outlets and switch plates in your home and think about the fact that air can pass through those little openings, letting both drafts inside and store-bought air outside, you can see that closing off all those little leaks might be a smart thing to do!
The key to solving this problem is sold in packages that contain enough insulation material to do a number of outlets or switch plates. They’re inexpensive and easy to install. All you need to do is pop out the perforated pieces and slide them into place. It’s literally a three-step project, and identical for both a switch or outlet, so I’ve mixed the steps together on the following pages.
1 Remove the cover screws (two for switch plates, and one in the center for outlets). As always, be careful when working around electrical boxes, being sure to never put the tip of the screwdriver near the wires attached to the sides of the switch or outlet. Doing so could give you a nasty jolt! Remove the cover itself and set aside.
2 After removing the perforated cutouts on the insulation, place the insulation sheet over the outlet in the wall. It should fit snugly and remain in place without having to be held. A tight fit ensures maximum air leak stoppage!
3 The last step is to simply replace the cover and put the screws in. I recommend doing this simple 3-step process on all your exterior wall electrical boxes.
Insulating Garage & Basement Walls
It’s been said that the two biggest reasons for insulating a garage are comfort and cost.
First, adding insulation can make a noticeable difference in that area year-round. It will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. If you spend any time at all in the garage tinkering on cars or projects, the added comfort level is worth the effort.
Second, the cost of this project is minimal given the benefits in return. It could eventually even pay for itself in energy cost savings if done properly.
There are a few different scenarios we’ll cover on this project:
1. Exposed-stud walls
2. Cinder block or concrete walls
3. Rock foundations/walls
In all cases, remember that the insulation should not be left exposed, but covered with drywall or plywood. Check your local codes for any special requirements.
Choosing the Insulation
Insulated walls are most common in garages. They’re generally 2×4s, but some builders use 2×6s when building exterior walls, so be sure you know what size you’re dealing with before you buy the insulation.
A 2×4 stud wall (actually only about 3½" deep) will accept R-13, while 2×6s (actually about 5½" deep) will allow you to install R-19 insulation.
Calculating the amount of insulation you’ll need is pretty simple as well. Measure the height of the wall (generally 8', but yours could be taller) and multiply it by the length.
If your garage is 24 feet deep, you’ll be covering a total of 192 square feet along one wall. Each package of insulation will indicate the area it will cover, so from here on, it’s just simple division.
The roll of R-13 at the right will cover 45 square feet, so it would take 4¼ rolls to do that wall.
Choose faced insulation for this project. The vapor barrier will help prevent moisture from transferring through the wall.
Finally, choose precut for standard walls. If your walls are taller than 8 feet, get the continuous roll. You’ll be able to cut the insulation to the proper length for a perfect fit.
The Right Tools
In addition to a stepladder, you’ll also need a good staple gun. Traditional staplers apply pressure to the back of the gun, while forward-action staplers allow you to put the pressure directly over the staple being driven. This is my preferred tool, but not everyone likes them, so be sure to test-fire one in the store before purchasing. 1Quarter-inch staples are usually adequate.
You’ll also need a utility knife and a straightedge to cut the insulation to length or width when necessary. If you don’t already have one, buy one with a retractable, replaceable blade system. You can usually get one for around $5-$10. A straightedge can be something as simple as a scrap of wood, as long as it’s a little wider than the insulation.
Finally, be sure to wear all the protective gear recommended by the insulation manufacturer. That includes gloves, long-sleeved shirt and pants and a dust mask. These will protect your skin and lungs from the irritating fibers that may become airborne when installing the insulation.
Exposed-stud Installation
Most older garages and unfinished basements are likely to have exposed-stud framing. The reason is simple; the builder saved money by leaving the walls unfinished. Ironically, you can save some money (on energy) by insulating and finishing them yourself. The process is really very simple, and the savings (and added comfort) is well worth the time.
1 If your garage has standard eight-foot exposed studs, the job is relatively simple. Unroll the insulation and press it into the wall cavity, starting at the top. Pull the paper tab over one of the studs and staple it in place.
2 Fold the other tab onto the adjacent stud and staple. Don’t stretch the facing too much or it might tear. Then work your way down the length of the insulation, lightly pulling any wrinkles out of the facing and stapling it into place about every foot.
3 Repeat this process on each wall cavity, folding the tab over the one next to it and securing it with staples. Use a hammer to flatten any staples that don’t seat correctly. This will help avoid tearing the facing when installing the next batting.
Cutting Insulation
You’ll need to cut the insulation to fit into narrower or shorter spaces, such as areas above doors and windows. Don’t try to stuff a full-width piece of insulation into a narrow cavity, as it will lose its insulating properties — it needs to fully expand to do its job correctly.
To cut the insulation, lay it out flat on a work surface that won’t be damaged by the razor knife. A scrap of plywood works well. Use the straightedge to compress the insulation and draw the knife toward you in several passes. Don’t try to cut all the way through on the first draw. Also, be sure to make a clean cut through the vapor barrier — don’t try to tear it.
Cinder Block or Concrete Walls
Often, basement and garage walls are block or poured concrete. In these cases, you need to “fur” the wall. That means simply adding studs that will hold the insulation. There are a couple different ways to accomplish this.
First, determine whether or not you should waterproof the wall. This is a good idea, especially if the wall is below grade (underground). That’s often the case with basement walls, although houses built on sloping ground can have at least one basement wall that isn’t underground.
In any case, if there’s noticeable moisture coming through the wall, apply a good coat of waterproofng before continuing. I prefer the oil-based versions over the water-based, despite the odor and cleanup. If you have any doubt about whether or not the problem can be remedied, call a professional and have it checked.
While furring can be installed with concrete screws, specialized tools will make the job easier and faster.
Powder-actuated fastening tools use a small amount of gunpowder to shoot a fastener through the stud and into the wall. Inexpensive models are available for as little as $30, and heavy-duty versions like this one made by Hilti can be rented for about that same price on a daily basis.
While using wood studs is fine in most situations, I was introduced to a product called EcoStud while doing product reviews for HGTVPro.com Weekly. It’s made from recycled resin and is impervious to moisture and insects. Dimensionally the same as a standard 2×4 wood stud, EcoStuds are great for a project like this.
The EcoStud is secured in place with construction adhesive and concrete fasteners. A flange along its entire length has predrilled holes for the fasteners. The studs also have precut locations for running electrical or plumbing lines.
Be sure to use ear protection when using tools like this and always read the instructions prior to operation!
1 Since we’re using standard insulation widths in this project, the studs need to be spaced 16" on center. Measure and mark the location for each stud along the length of the wall you’re insulating. Using a thick marker will eliminate guesswork later! Next, apply a bead of the recommended polyurethane construction adhesive along the back of the stud.
2 Hold it in place on the wall at the first marked location. Use a level to be sure it’s plumb.
3 Install at least three or foiur fasteners along the length of the flange.
4 Once you’ve installed the studs along the wall, you can begin the insulation process. The manufacturer designed the EcoStud for use with spray-foam, rigid, or fiberglass insulation. The only difference in the installation process is the recommendation that packing tape be used instead of staples to secure the vapor barrier.
Rock Foundations
This presented an interesting dilemma for the homeowners when they decided to insulate their garage. It’s a situation you may run into as well. I’m offering a brief outline of the procedure here. Since every situation is different, you may be able to take some of these techniques and apply them to your project.
1 After removing the old shelving and debris along the wall, a pressure-treated bottom plate is installed. It needs to be far enough from the wall’s surface to allow the installation of studs between it and the joists above. The bottom plate is secured with the same concrete fasteners as used in the cinder block wall.
2 Studs are then cut and installed by securing the top end to the joist, making sure they’re plumb using a level, and then toe-nailing them to the bottom plate.
3 Once all the studs are secured, the insulation can be installed and covered with drywall or the material you choose. I prefer plywood in areas like this, as it gives you nearly unlimited storage options. Nails or screws can be installed anywhere, and plywood is capable of holding more weight than drywall.