DISTANCE: 2km (1.25 miles)
TIME: A full day
START: The Rudolfinum
END: House of the Black Madonna
POINTS TO NOTE: This route is quite art heavy, and, after two galleries, visitors might be reluctant to see a third; even so, continuing the route to the House of the Black Madonna is highly recommended. If it is any incentive, the Grand Café Orient on the first floor is a good place to rest your feet.
Start this tour of the outskirts of the Old Town at náměstí Jana Palacha. Staroměstská metro station is close by, on Kaprova; from there, turn left out of the station and walk down towards the river to enter the square.
The Rudolfinum
Dominating the square is the Rudolfinum 1 [map], an impressive neo-Renaissance building built as a concert hall from 1875 to 1884. From 1918 to 1938 it was the seat of the Czechoslovak Parliament, but after World War II it was returned to its original use as the home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra (www.ceskafilharmonie.cz), who regularly perform in the magnificent Dvořák Hall (for more information, click here). The Galerie Rudolfinum (www.galerierudolfinum.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm) is an important venue for the work of contemporary artists and has a lovely café.
The Rudolfinum
Rod Purcell/Apa Publications
Museum of Decorative Arts
Across the road – No.17 listopadu – from the Rudolfinum is the UPM or Museum of Decorative Arts 2 [map] (Uměleckoprůmyslové muzeum; www.upm.cz; closed for renovation but open for exhibitions). The building dates from 1900 and is itself a fine example of the decorative arts. This is one of the most interesting museums in Prague dedicated to the history and development of decorative art and design from textiles, fashion and jewellery to glass, ceramics, wood and metal.
The collections
Each section has some wonderful items, but among the best are the collections of late 19th- and 20th-century women’s costume. The collections include not only clothing but an excellent selection of shoes and accessories.
The glass and ceramics collection includes some fine examples of 16th- to 17th-century Venetian glass, but of course it is the Bohemian work that is best represented. Of the metalwork, it is probably the pieces from 1900–30 that are most interesting; look out for Josef Gočár’s Cubist clock (1913). There are also fine examples of 20th-century jewellery, particularly the pieces from the 1970s and 1980s by Jozef Soukup.
The Czechs have long had a reputation for good graphic design, and this is borne out by the early 20th-century posters; chief among these are those displaying the influence of Cubism.
Fashion exhibits at the Museum of Decorative Arts
Olivia Rutherford/REX/Shutterstock
Cubist Architecture
Turn right out of the museum, along the wall of the Old Jewish Cemetery (for more information, click here) and then turn right into Břehová, which brings you out into an open square. On your left is Les Moules, see 1, a good place for lunch. Cross over the wide street of Pařížská and take Bílkova, the road directly in front of you. As you leave the square look to your left along Elišky Krásnohorské and there is a Cubist apartment block 3 [map] built by Otakar Novotný in 1921.
Continue to the end of the road and turn right, and at the next junction take the second left into Haštalská. Here you will find a second good option for lunch, Chez Marcel, see 2.
The Powder Tower
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St Agnes’s Convent
In front of the restaurant is the church of St Hastala, and behind this – taking the lane to the left around the church – is St Agnes’s Convent 4 [map] (Anežský klášter; U milosrdných 17). The convent is the first early-Gothic building in Prague, having been founded in 1234. However, the complex fell into decay and parts of it were destroyed. After many years, restorers succeeded in bringing some rooms back to their original state. These were linked to form the present-day historic complex by means of carefully reconstructed additions.
The convent buildings hold the National Gallery’s collection of Medieval Art in Bohemia and Central Europe (Středověké uměni v Čechách; www.ngprague.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm). The superb collection has been sensitively displayed and fits well into the space.
The collections
The exhibits are shown in broadly chronological order, starting with a very important early wooden statue, the Madonna of Michle (c.1330). Among the star exhibits are the museum’s two Bohemian altarpieces: the first from Vyšší Brod (1350) and the second from Třeboň (1380–5), whose artist was one of the most important figures of the International Style. Also look out for the series from the Chapel of the Holy Cross at Karlštejn (1360–4) by Master Theodoric.
Influence from the Netherlands can be seen in later works such as Hans Pleydenwurff’s Beheading of St Barbara (c.1470), and, at the end of the 15th century, from the Italian Renaissance in the work of the Master of Grossgmain. As well as some fabulous Swabian and Bohemian woodcarving, there are two excellent paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder (the Madonna of Poleň, 1520, and Young Lady with a Hat, 1538). There are also fine woodcuts, notably Dürer’s Apocalypse (1511) and The Passion Cycle (1509) by Cranach.
Municipal House
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Municipal House
Now return to Haštalská and at the end of the street turn right into Rybná. Walk down Rybná, past the Modernist Hotel Josef, designed by Eva Jiřičná, to the Hotel Paříž. The short streets of Obecního domu open out into náměstí Republiky (Republic Square). Here is the Art Nouveau Municipal House 5 [map] (Obecní dům; www.obecni-dum.cz; daily 10am– 8pm; tours in Czech and English).
Built in 1911, it was created in response to the politically and economically strengthened national consciousness of the Czech bourgeoisie around the turn of the 20th century. A whole generation of artists worked on this building, including Alfons Mucha (1860–1939), who has left here some wonderful examples of his art. Every corner of the building, both inside and out, is elegantly decorated, and has been carefully maintained. It was also here that the independent Czechoslovak Republic was declared in October 1918.
Today, the building is home to the Prague Symphony Orchestra (www.fok.cz), which plays in the Smetana Hall (Smetanova síň). Some idea of the building’s splendour can be gained in its café and restaurants.
House of the Black Madonna
Rod Purcell/Apa Publications
Powder Tower
Adjoining the Municipal House, on Celetná, is the late-Gothic Powder Tower 6 [map] (Prašná brána; daily Apr–Sept 10am–10pm, Mar and Oct 10am–8pm, Nov–Feb 10am–6pm). It was built in the later 15th century as a city gate and acquired its name when it was used as a gunpowder storehouse; the neo-Gothic roof was added during the 19th century. It houses an exhibition ‘Prague Towers’ and photographs by Ladislav Sitensky. It is possible to climb the 186 steps for a fine view across the Old Town.
Czech Cubism Exhibition
Walking down Celetná brings you to the Cubist House of the Black Madonna 7 [map] (Dům u Černé Matky Boži; Ovocný trh 19; www.czkubismus.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Tue until 7pm). The entrance to the house is via a beautiful spiralling staircase with a Cubist motif on the bannister supports. Now under the umbrella of the Museum of Decorative Arts, the Czech Cubism Exhibition at the house is presented to combine fine arts, applied arts and architecture. Displayed over four floors above the charming Grand Café Orient, you will find works by Czech doyens of the movement, including Otto Gutfreund (1889–1927), Pavel Janák (1882–1956), Emil Filla (1882–1953), Josef Gočár (1880–1945), Jaroslav Benda (1882–1970) and Bohumil Kubišta (1884–1918). The top floor is used for workshops and educational programmes. The exhibitions throughout have fine examples of paintings, sculpture, furniture and graphic design, but the star exhibit is probably the building itself.
Food and Drink
1 Les Moules
Pařížká 19; tel: 222 315 022; www.lesmoules.cz; daily 11.30am–midnight; €€
Within sight of the Old-New Synagogue, this Belgian bar and restaurant is a good place to while away a few hours. As well as an excellent variety of Belgian beer, bottled and on tap, the food is both delicious and filling, with pride of place going to the mussels.
2 Chez Marcel
Haštalská 12; tel: 222 315 676; www.chezmarcel.cz; daily 11.30am–11.30pm; no credit cards; €€
Very French, even down to the occasionally grumpy service, this bistro opposite St Agnes’s Convent has all the expected dishes (steak, salads and tarte tartin), plus a few more interesting plates and French wines by the glass. Tasty, simple food.