DISTANCE: 4km (2.5 miles)
TIME: A full day
START: Průmyslový Palace
END: Prague Botanical Garden
POINTS TO NOTE: Note that this tour visits the area just to the north of the one covered in route 12, so an option might be to combine the two, albeit by flitting past some sights to fit everything in. There are very few decent cafés and restaurants on the way to Troja; in summer there is a café in the palace grounds, a café outside the zoo (many more options inside) and a tea stall in the botanical garden. A good option is to take food and drink with you, as the Stromovka park is a great place for a picnic. It’s also a lovely place for children to run around in, which, coupled with a trip to the zoo, makes this a good route to do with kids.
The northern reaches of the city are often ignored by tourists, but contain important sights, including one of Prague’s first Art Nouveau buildings, a fine Baroque palace, a zoo and the city’s Botanical Garden.
Průmyslový Palace and the Lapidarium
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Výstaviště Exhibition Ground
Dominating the view down the long street of Dukelských hrdinů is the huge and ornate Průmyslový Palace 1 [map] (Průmyslový palác), part of the Výstaviště Exhibition Ground. Designed by František Prášil and Bedřich Münzberger, it was constructed for the Exhibition of 1891. One of the very first Art Nouveau buildings in Prague, it is still used for trade fairs and exhibitions – which vary hugely, from the mundane to the erotic – but when there is no show on it can appear a little strange and bleak.
To the rear of the main exhibition hall is the Křižík Fountain, designed by the electrical pioneer František Křižík. A masterpiece of kitsch, the fountain comprises hundreds of individually controlled jets and lights, all set to music.
The Lapidarium
To the right of the Průmyslový Palace, in one of the side pavilions, is the National Museum’s Lapidarium 2 [map] (www.nm.cz; May–Nov Wed 10am–4pm, Thu–Sun noon–6pm). This contains a collection of Bohemian stone sculptures from the 11th to 19th centuries, many of which at one time adorned the city. As well as information on the mining, selection and preparation of rocks used for stone carving, this chronologically arranged exhibition includes some outstanding works of art. Among the Romanesque and Gothic exhibits, one of the finest is the original of the bronze equestrian statue of St George, which originally stood outside St Vitus (now replaced by a copy). Also here is the original tympanum from the Týn Church (1380–90) and Petr Parléř’s exceptional figures from the Old Town Bridge Tower, as well as the original pillar and statue of the Bruncvík.
The Renaissance exhibits are dominated by the Krocín fountain that used to stand in Staroměstské náměstí. And the Baroque pieces include the original (earlier) equestrian statue of St Wenceslas from Wenceslas Square, as well as a series of interesting gilded and brightly painted statues.
The remainder of the collection is given over to works from the 19th century. Notable among these are the two tombs made by Václav Prachner and the four allegorical groups designed for the cupola of the National Museum by Bohuslav Schnirch.
Behind the Lapidarium is Sea World (Mořský Svět; www.morsky-svet.cz; Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm, Sat–Sun 9am–7pm), a small aquarium that features sharks.
The Troja Château and its formal gardens
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The Panorama
Also in the grounds of Výstaviště, behind the main exhibition hall, is the newly restored Panorama 3 [map] (Apr–Oct Tue–Fri 1–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm). Panoramas were very popular during the 19th century – especially of subjects that portrayed patriotic themes – and this huge circular painting by Luděk Marold (1865–98) depicts The Battle of Lipany of 1434, when citizens of Prague helped defeat the Hussite army of Prokop Holý.
Stromovka Park
To the left of the main entrance to Výstaviště is the way into Stromovka 4 [map]. Previously a royal hunting ground, this wooded park became a public space at the beginning of the 19th century and is one of the most extensive open spaces in the city. A signposted foot- and cycle-path leads through the park towards the Troja château. A turn-off to the right takes you under the railway line and over a footbridge to Císařský ostrov (Emperor’s Island). The path continues straight across the island to an elegant modern footbridge. On the other side turn left along the river and then right onto on U trojského zámku.
Troja Château
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Autumn hues in Stromovka park
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Troja Château
Here is the entrance to the Troja Château 5 [map] (Trojský zámek; www.ghmp.cz; Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Fri 1–6pm; the Trojská karta joint ticket gives you access to the château, zoo and botanical garden). The building is set in large formal gardens (open until 7pm), part of which are given over to a large apple orchard.
Built in 1685 by Jean-Baptiste Mathey for Václav Vojtěch of Sternberg, this large Baroque mansion has an ornate interior covered in frescoes on Classical themes (not greatly enhanced by a bodged restoration). The château and gardens suffered greatly in the 2002 floods, but much of the damage has now been repaired. Approaching through the gardens does give you a view of the southern facade, with its staircase decorated by monumental sculpture representing the battle between the gods and Titans.
The interior
When you enter the building, you will be given a pair of overshoes, designed to protect the floors. The château is home to a collection of 19th-century Czech painting, the highlights of which are probably the landscapes on display in the first few rooms. Many of the same artists are represented as in the National Gallery’s collection of 19th-century art; of particular interest are Ludvík Kohl’s highly Romantic Gothic Hall with a Meeting of a Secret Brotherhood (1812); two lovely landscapes of mountain waterfalls by Charlotta Peipenhagenová (1880s); Forest Scene (1853) by Josef Mánes; and the virtuoso Path in a Deciduous Forest by Bedřich Havránek (1878).
The rooms upstairs are particularly wonderfully decorated, especially the Grand Hall, which is covered in frescoes by Abraham Godyn (1663–1724).
Prague Zoo resident
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Prague Zoo
Just outside the Troja Château is the stop for the No. 112 bus, behind which is the entrance to Prague Zoo 6 [map] (Zoologická zahrada; U Trojského zámku 3; www. zoopraha.cz; daily June–Aug 9am–9pm, Apr–May and Sept–Oct 9am–6pm, Mar 9am–5pm, Nov–Feb 9am–4pm). Spacious and well-kept enclosures are home to around 650 species. Extensive grounds stretch out over a lush river valley up a steep, rocky escarpment to rolling meadows. Animals range from penguins, big cats and elephants to giraffes, hippos and polar bears, which can be viewed via glass-fronted indoor viewing platforms and walkways if they are outdoors. The zoo was particularly badly affected by the 2002 flood, when there were tragic scenes of the animals trying to cope with the rising waters.
From the zoo, head further uphill, taking the footpath that leads off right from the road that climbs the hill above the château. A sign points you towards the Botanická zahrada Praha. At the top turn left to the main entrance to Prague Botanical Garden 7 [map] (Botanická zahrada Praha; www.botanicka.cz; daily May–Sept 9am–7pm, Apr 9am–6pm, Oct and Mar 9am–5pm, Nov–Feb 9am–4pm).
The gardens are very extensive and include, among other things, a Mediterranean and Japanese garden, medicinal and poisonous plants, as well as a perennial flower bed. Also attached to the garden, cascading down the hill towards the château, is the St Clara vineyard Established during the reign of King Václav II in the 13th century, today it is partly maintained for its heritage value, and partly as a fully working wine-producing business. The historic collection of vines includes an almost complete set of the approximately 50 grape varieties that are officially cultivated in Bohemia. In addition to an exhibition on viticulture, a selection of wines is for sale at the old vineyard house. The view from the top of the hill by the St Clara chapel is lovely.
Fata Morgana
Following the road up to the right of the main entrance brings you to the curving Fata Morgana Glasshouse 8 [map] (Skleník Fata Morgana; Tue–Sun, same times as the gardens). Divided into three main sections – semi-desert, tropical rainforest and cloud forest – it is now well established and the plants are flourishing. From the dry zone a subterranean passage leads through a divided pool, one side for the Americas, the other for Africa and Asia, before emerging into the hot and steamy tropics – very green, with huge tropical butterflies flitting amongst the plants. However, perhaps even more interesting is the cooler cloud-forest room, where jets provide a constant mist of water. Above, the glasshouse footpaths lead through an attractive woodland with picnic and play areas.
To get back into town, return to the bus stop outside the zoo entrance and take the No. 112 to Nádraží Holešovice metro station.