Prague’s streets are chock-a-block with places to eat and the quality is improving all the time. Traditional Czech food, which is similar to other central European regional cuisines, still dominates among the increasing number of Thai, Italian, French and other world-cuisine options. There are a number of fast food chains as well, more so in the Nové Město area, such as McDonald’s, KFC and Starbucks, plus the local equivalents.
In a city with such a wide choice of places to eat – and where many are of a similar quality making it difficult to decide – it is worthwhile selecting somewhere with a memorable setting. Enjoy a hearty meal beneath the vaults of a medieval cellar, dine in the stately surroundings of an historic palace, or sit at a table with stunning views over spires and the Vltava River.
Prague restaurants are attuned to the needs of visitors with young children, and many restaurants have non-smoking sections, provide highchairs and offer children’s menus. Child-friendly establishments include Pizza Nuova, Pizzeria Grosseto and others, such as Taverna Olympos, which have seating outside.
Keep a watchful eye on the bill in Prague. Menu prices include value-added tax, but some waiters persist in adding it again to the total. In some of the more expensive restaurants, beware of the trays of hors d’oeuvres you may be offered; far from being complimentary, they may add substantially to the bill. Other items such as bread, butter, olives and mayonnaise also often cost extra.
Price guide for a two-course meal for one with a glass of house wine:
€€€€ = over 60 euros
€€€ = 40–60 euros
€€ = 20–40 euros
€ = below 20 euros
Hradčany (Castle District)
U Císařů
Loretánská 5; tel: 220 518 484; www.ucisaru.cz; daily 10am–midnight; €€€
The hotel name translates as ‘At the Emperor’s’; appropriately, it is on the other side of the square from the Castle. The old-fashioned menu includes roast beef, pork knuckle and duck, and there are, surprisingly, a few vegetarian dishes.
Malá Strana
Aquarius
Tržiště 19; tel: 257 286 019; www.aquarius-prague.com; daily noon–3pm, 7pm–11pm; €€€€
Exquisitely decorated with Venetian stucco and hand-painted murals, this hotel restaurant is the place to come if you have done rather well out of the post-Communist privatisations. If you can afford to ignore the prices, the tasting menu and long wine list are of a high standard.
The exquisite Aquarius
Leonardo
Café de Paris
Maltézské námĕstí 4; tel: 603 160 718; www.cafedeparis.cz; daily 11.30am–midnight; €€
Set back in a delightful spot in Malá Strana, the accomplished French-inspired cuisine at this family-run establishment is matched by its excellent wine selection. No credit cards.
Coda
Tržiště 9; tel: 225 334 761; www.codarestaurant.cz; Mon–Sun 7am–11.30pm; €€€€
Set in the Aria Hotel this smart restaurant has a rooftop terrace offering spectacular views of the Lesser Town. It has a good tasting menu of Czech cuisine with traditional kulajda soup, roasted duck and plum ravioli, prepared by the Czech chef David Šašek.
El Centro
Maltézské námĕstí 9; tel: 257 533 343; www.elcentro.cz; daily noon–midnight (closed Sat–Sun lunch); €€
Founded in 1999, El Centro was the first Spanish restaurant to set up in Prague. Authentic dishes from Andalucia and Latin America are served in a pleasant homey atmosphere. There is a selection of tasty tapas and the paella is renowned.
Lehka Hlava
Boršov 2/280; tel: 222 220 665; www.lehkahlava.cz; Mon–Fri 11.30am–11.30pm, Sat–Sun noon–11.30pm; €€
A short walk from Charles Bridge, the plain front of this vegetarian restaurant belies the eccentrically decorated interior. The menu incorporates influences from all over the world, including quesadillas, tofu red curry, tacos and kebabs.
Kampa Park
Na Kampě 8b; tel: 296 826 102; www.kampagroup.com; daily 11.30am–1am; €€€€
The food is good, and the views over the river are spectacular. The steep prices, however, may cause some indigestion. Popular with local celebrities.
Pálffy Palác
Valdštejnská 14; tel: 257 530 522; www.palffy.cz; daily 11am–11pm; €€€
Go through the door at the right-hand side of the imposing gateway and up the stairs to reach a dining hall that epitomises lavish faded glory: all gilded chandeliers and crystal. In operation since the 17th century, this restaurant has catered for everyone from diplomats to politicians in its time. An outdoor terrace leads out to breathtaking views of the castle. The European food is competent but unremarkable, but it is the surroundings that really count.
Terasa U Zlate Studne
U Zlaté studně 166/4; tel: 257 533 322; www.terasauzlatestudne.cz; daily 11am–11pm (Nov–Mar from noon); €€€€
On the roof of the Golden Well hotel, this elegant restaurant offers panoramic views of the Vltava and is ideal for a romantic dinner. The acclaimed chef Pavel Sapíc prepares a wonderful range of international dishes. There is a good list of international and Czech wines.
U Malířů
Maltézské náměstí 11; tel: 257 530 000; www.umaliru.cz; noon–11pm; €€€€
This restaurant is one the most expensive in Prague, found on a quiet square in the Lesser Quarter. French haute cuisine is served in a beautiful 15th-century dining room complete with an elaborately decorated ceiling, and a tiny outdoor terrace completes the picture. It’s perfect for that special occasion.
U Modré kachničky
Nebovidská 6; tel: 257 320 308; www.umodrekachnicky.cz; daily noon–4pm, 6.30pm–midnight; €€€
This charming Bohemian restaurant serves fine duck and game dishes. Try fallow deer with rosehip sauce and Carlsbad dumplings or duck with walnut stuffing. Save space for the lovely fruit dumplings.
U Patrona
Dražického náměstí 4; tel: 257 530 725; www.upatrona.cz; daily 10am–midnight; €€€
These elegant little dining rooms close to the Charles Bridge at the Bridge Tower are a good place to try some well-prepared Czech specialities. The restaurant is set out over two floors, and you can sit outside on the romantic balcony for two.
Staré Město
Bakeshop Café and Bistro
Kozi 1, tel: 222 316 823; www.bakeshop.cz; daily 7am–9pm; €
Bakeshop has a wide variety of freshly made soups and sandwiches, plus interesting salads, and the selection of cakes are hard to resist. It’s perfect for breakfast, lunch or a light evening meal.
Bellevue
Smetanovo nábřeží 18; tel: 222 221 443; www.bellevuerestaurant.cz; daily noon–3pm, 5.30–11pm; €€€€
Smart restaurant serving a competent version of modern international cuisine. Dishes such as roast veal loin with mushroom sauce are backed up by equally memorable desserts.
Brasileiro
U Radnice 8; tel: 224 234 474; www.ambi.cz; daily 11am–midnight; €€
One of the successful Ambiente group of restaurants, the Brasileiro specialises in Brazilian beef offered on an ‘as-much-as-you-can-eat’ basis. Accompany your meal with wine from Argentina.
Café Imperial
Na poříčí 15; tel: 246 011 440; www.cafeimperial.cz; daily 7am–11pm; €€
One of the grand old cafés of Prague, the Café Imperial is worth a visit just for the restored Art Nouveau interior with its wonderful tiling. Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and evening meals are served by friendly staff.
Café Montmartre
Retězová 7; tel: 222 221 244; Mon–Fri 9am–11pm, Sat–Sun noon–11pm; €
Historic café, once frequented by writers such as Jaroslav Hašek and Egon Erwin Kisch. Though no longer a hotbed of political and cultural debate, it remains a pleasant place to sit, read and drink.
Smetanovo nábřeži 2; www.cafeslavia.cz; tel: 224 218 493; daily 8am–midnight (Sat–Sun from 9am); €
This famous café, with views over the river and National Theatre, was once the haunt of artists and writers, including Václav Havel. The spacious and elegant Art Deco interior encourages you to linger, and morning coffee turns into lunch with a range of salads, pancakes and Czech dishes.
Choose CottoCrudo for contemporary Italian fare
Four Seasons Hotels
CottoCrudo
Four Seasons Hotel, Veleslavínova 2; tel: 221 426 880; www.cottocrudo.cz; daily 7am–11pm; €€€€
Replacing Allegro (the first Michelin-starred restaurant in post-Communist Eastern Europe), this sleek restaurant boasts Chef Luca de Astis, who adds a contemporary twist to authentic Italian dishes, beautifully cooked and presented using the best ingredients and artisan products from the Piedmont and Tuscany regions of Italy.
Kogo Havelská
Havelská 27; tel: 224 210 259; www.kogohavelska.cz; daily 11pm−11pm; €€
A relaxed but upmarket Italian restaurant located not far from Staroměstské náměstí. It offers the full range of Italian cuisine, with enticing starters and desserts. Booking is recommended.
Kolkovna Celnice
V celnice 4; tel: 224 212 240; www.kolkovna.cz; daily 11am–midnight; €€
Another Pilsner Urquell-owned beer hall, with all the advantages they bring of excellent beer and calorific Bohemian food. Celnice has the advantage of being on top of one of Prague’s best clubs, where you can dance off the dumplings.
La Casa Argentina
Dlouhá 35; tel: 222 311 512; www.lacasaargentina.cz; Tue–Sat 11:30am–2am; Sun–Mon 11.30am–1am; €€€
The tastes and ambience of South America have come to Prague at this fun Argentinian restaurant serving the best succulent steaks. Each room represents a different aspect of the country: a nautical tavern with lanterns and swinging chairs; Buenos Aires piano bar; and the Iguazu Falls.
Haštalská 18; tel: 222 311 234; www.ladegustation.cz; daily 6pm–midnight; €€€
If you’re feeling adventurous, this L-shaped Michelin-star restaurant is one of the finest in the city. Choose between two tasting menus giving very different culinary experiences: the first (11 courses) is a gourmet ensemble carefully prepared by Chef Oldřich Sahajdák; the second offers a Bohemian tasting selection (6 courses) that adds a creative twist to traditional 19th- and 20th-century Czech cuisine.
Lokal
Dlouhá 33; tel: 222 316 265; www.ambi.cz; Mon–Fri 11am–1am, Sun until midnight; €
Set on the edge of the Josefov district, this friendly beer hall serves traditional, home-made Czech fare made from fresh ingredients and at reasonable prices. You can also learn how to draw beer form the bartenders, the courses are held in Czech and English.
Maitrea
Týnská ulička 6; tel: 221 711 631; www.restaurace-maitrea.cz; Mon−Fri 11.30am−11.30pm, Sat−Sun noon−11.30; €
Over two floors, Maitrea is one of the best meat-free options in Prague. The feng-shui style creates a calm and contemplative atmosphere with fountains and Buddha statues adding to the bespoke look.
Mlynec
Novotného lávka 9; tel: 227 000 777; www.mlynec.cz; daily noon–3pm, 5.30–11pm; €€€
Mlynec is set in a beautiful location by the river, with views of the Charles Bridge. The degustation menu that can feature dishes such as coquilles St-Jacques, oxtail consommé and saddle of deer is well worth trying.
The chandeliered Francouzscá, inside the Obecní dům building
Obecní dům, a.s.
Obecní dům
Náměstí Republiky 5; Francouzscá restaurace: tel: 222 002 770; www.francouzskarestaurace.cz; daily noon–11pm; €€€€; Plzeňská restaurace: tel: 222 002 780; www.plzenskarestaurace.cz; daily 11.30am–11pm; €€; Kavárna Obecní dům; tel: 222 002 763; www.kavarnaod.cz; daily 7.30am–11pm; €€
Prague’s most opulent Art Nouveau building is home to three eateries. The finest, Francouzscá restaurace, is pricey and French, offering passable food in a spectacular gilded and chandeliered interior. The café Kavárna Obecní dům serves more basic meals and cakes in equally impressive surroundings. Downstairs in the basement is the cheaper, smartly decorated, Plzeňská restaurace, serving tasty Czech dishes in a beer hall atmosphere.
The cheaper, but still impressive, Plzeňská restaurace
Obecní dům, a.s.
Pizza Nuova
Revoluční 1; tel: 221 803 308; http://pizzanuova.ambi.cz; daily 11am–11pm; €€
Tasty authentic Naples-style pizzas hand rolled and baked in a traditional oven using a beech wood fire. Pastas and meat dishes are also on the menu. Families dining here appreciate the kids’ play room.
Pizzeria Rugantino
Dušní 4; tel: 222 318 172; Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun noon–11pm; €€
Handily close to Old Town Square, the Rugantino serves large, tasty pizzas at reasonable prices. There is a no-smoking section at the front, overlooking the street, and the staff are friendly.
Potrefená husa
Platnéřská 9; tel: 224 813 819; www.potrefena-husa-praha.cz; Mon–Sat 11am–midnight, Sun noon–11pm; €€
Part of a successful chain, this lively, contemporary gastropub has a well-designed interior, moderate prices, updated Czech dishes and a good choice of drinks.
Le Terroir
Vejvodova 1; tel: 222 220 260; www.leterroir.cz; Tue–Sat 4–11pm; €€€
Set in vaulted brick cellars, Le Terroir boasts high-end, creative French-inspired cooking and an extensive wine cellar to complement the excellent food. The service is exceptional, too.
U medvídků
Na perštýně 7; tel: 224 211 916; www.umedvidku.cz; Mon–Sat 11.30am–11pm, Sun until 10pm; €€
This traditional beer hall, founded in 1466, is friendly, bustling and noisy. Excellent Budvar beer washes down a succession of classic Czech dishes, including hearty beef broth, pork with cabbage and dumplings and the ubiquitous fried cheese.
Ungelt
Týn 5; tel: 777 427 000; www.restaurant-ungelt.cz; daily 11am–midnight; €€€
In the charming surroundings of the cobbled Týn Court, behind the Týn Church, the restaurant offers a good variety of fish and meat dishes. An outdoor terrace makes a pretty setting for summertime dining. Specialities include lobster roasted in tarragon butter and rib-eye steak with roasted liver foie gras and black truffle poached in port wine.
U Vejvodů
Jilská 4; tel: 224 219 999; www.restauraceuvejvodu.cz; daily 9am–2am; €
From Gothic to Art Nouveau, the architectural styles provide an atmospheric Bohemian setting for traditional Czech and international cuisine, beer and live music.
La Veranda
Elišky Krásnohorské 2; tel: 224 814 733; www.laveranda.cz; Mon–Sat noon–11pm; €€€
A gourmet restaurant near the Spanish Synagogue, La Veranda is a light, stylish venue filled with flowers. It specialises in delicate fish dishes but has good meat and vegetarian options too. Cooking styles range from Mediterranean to pan-Asian. Excellent service and above average prices, but it’s certainly worth the splurge.
Yami
Másna 3; tel: 222 312 756; www.yami.cz; daily noon–11pm; €€
Dine out on highly fresh Japanese and Korean dishes and succulent sushi at this small fusion restaurant. You can sit at the bar and watch the chefs prepare the food or relax at a table or outside in the garden.
Zlatá Praha
Intercontinental Hotel, Pařížská 30; tel: 296 630 914; www.zlatapraharestaurant.cz; Mon–Sat 6–11.30pm, Sun 11am–3pm; €€€
For an unforgettable dining experience, Zlatá Praha offers breathtaking views of the Old Town from the ninth floor of the Communist-era Intercontinental Hotel. Cutting-edge cooking consistently produces superb Czech and international dishes.
Nové Město
Radisson SAS Alcron Hotel, Stěpánská 40; tel: 222 820 038; www.alcron.cz; Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5.30–11.30pm, Sat 5.30–11.30pm; €€€€
Dating from the 1930s, the Radisson Hotel offers wonderful period decor as well as this decent fish restaurant. A varied menu, ranging from South-East Asian to French dishes, uses fresh ingredients.
The Art Deco Alcron
Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group
Café Louvre
Národní třída 22; tel: 224 930 949; www.cafelouvre.cz; daily 8am–11.30pm (Sat–Sun from 9pm); €
An elegant Art Nouveau café, much loved in the past by Prague’s intellectuals, Café and Galerie Louvre is a great place to sit and browse through the papers. Below the café proper is a gallery displaying contemporary art, while upstairs you can get breakfast, lunch and an evening meal.
Cicala
Zitna 43; tel: 222 210 375; www.trattoria.cz; Mon–Sat 11.30am–3pm, 5–10pm; €€
Set in a basement off a busy street, Cicala serves the most authentic, and some of the tastiest, Italian food in the city. The menu offers antipasti, pasta and meat dishes, plus daily specials.
Estella
Opatovická 17; tel: 777 431 344; www.estrellarestaurant.cz; daily 11.30am–10.30pm; €€
This excellent vegetarian restaurant serves tasty and inventive dishes, many cooked with organic ingredients. On offer are such classics as mushroom risotto or quinoa and spinach burgers. The Czech wines and beers are worth a try, as are the excellent teas and desserts. Cash only.
Globe Bookstore and Café
Pštrossova 6; tel: 224 934 203; www.globebookstore.cz; Mon–Fri 10am–midnight, Sat–Sun 9.30am–1am; €
Well known as a centre of expat intellectual life. As well as the friendly café, with good coffee and light meals (pasta, salads and burgers), the book shop has occasional live music, lectures and book readings and signings. It is also one of the most pleasant, and cheapest, places to check your email.
Hybernia
Hybernská 7; tel: 222 226 004; www.hybernia.cz; Mon–Fri 8am–midnight, Sat–Sun 11am–midnight; €
Known for its generous portions and good value, this is a popular spot for reliable Czech fare not far from the Municipal House. There is an outside terrace for dining in warmer weather.
A view to dine for
Leonardo
Kogo
Na Příkopě 22; tel: 221 451 259; www.kogo.cz; daily 11am–11pm; €€€
Kogo’s a large, bustling, and very popular Mediterranean-style eatery in the contemporary Slovanský Dům arcade on Prague’s main shopping street, which offers a vast range of fish, meat, and pasta dishes.
Lemon Leaf
Myslíkova 14; tel: 224 919 056; www.lemon.cz; Mon–Fri 11am–11pm, Sat–Sun noon–11pm (Sat until midnight); €
This popular Nové Město eatery serves Thai favourites and other global dishes. Start with a refreshing papaya salad then try the green curry washed down with Czech beer.
Pivovarský dům
Ječná/Lípová 15; tel: 296 216 666; www.pivovarskydum.com; daily 11am–11.30pm; €
This microbrewery and restaurant is noted for its wide and varied range of beers brewed on the premises (even including coffee and banana beer). The hearty Czech food (such as roast pork and stuffed dumplings) is tasty and helps to soak up the drink. Among the other offerings are wheat beer, mead and a delicious dark beer.
Renommé
Na struze 1; tel: 224 934 109; www.renomme.cz; daily 11am–11pm; €€
A small family restaurant offering French food, confit of duck with bacon, dumplings and thyme, foie gras and good soups. Homemade vanilla crème brûlée and chocolate fondant with apple and cinnamon are also highly recommended. Booking is advised.
The grotto setting at Triton
Libor Svacek/Adria – Neptun
Triton
Václavské námĕstĕ 26; tel: 221 081 218; www.tritonrestaurant.com; daily 11.30am–11pm; €€€
Enjoy a romantic candlelight dinner in the unique atmosphere of what appears to be a stalactite grotto. Situated in the Adria Hotel’s ancient cellars, Triton offers a creative fine dining experience prepared by renowned Chef Michael Novák.
Universal
V Jirchářích 6; tel: 224 934 416; www.universalrestaurant.cz; daily 11.30am–1am; €€
This is a well-priced, comfortable French bistro serving good food. Once settled in the slick interior, you can choose from dishes such as meal-sized salade Niçoise, steaks, and some classic desserts.
U Fleků
Křemencova 11; tel: 224 934 019; www.ufleku.cz; daily 10am–11pm; €€
An ancient and well-known brewery with an illustrious past. Its present is not so glorious, filled as it is with hordes of tourists who bash tables, scoff down plates of goulash and quaff beer. However, the dark beer, brewed on site, is just as wonderful as ever.
U Pinkasů
Jungmannova 16; tel: 221 1111 152; www.upinkasu.cz; daily 10am–11.30pm; €€
While the ground floor and basement of this traditional establishment are given over to rather serious drinkers of Plzeňský prazdroj (on tap here since 1843), the more genteel upper floor is an attractive restaurant serving a range of authentic Bohemian dishes.
Vinohrady and Zižkov
Hlučná samota
Záhřebská 14, Vinohrady; tel: 222 522 839; www.hlucna-samota.cz; Mon–Sat 11am–midnight, Sat–Sun noon–midnight; €€
Situated a few blocks down Belgická from náměstí Míru, this pub-cum-restaurant guarantees a convivial atmosphere every evening. As well as serving excellent beer, the menu comprises Czech culinary stalwarts such as beef goulash with dumplings alongside a good selection of lighter dishes that includes salads and vegetarian options.
Orange Moon
Vinohradska 151; tel: 255 742 038; www.orangemoon.cz; daily 11am–10pm; €€
This Thai, Burmese and Indian restaurant is housed in the Atrium Flora shopping gallery. Dishes range from chicken satay and spring rolls to pad thai and fish masala. The food is hot, spicy and tasty.
Pizzeria Grosseto
Francouzská 2/náměstí Míru; tel: 224 252 778; www.grosseto.cz; daily 11.30am–11pm; €
Popular with local residents and office workers, this friendly restaurant serves some of the best pizza in Prague (all freshly cooked in a wood-burning oven). If you enjoy this one you might want to look out for their other branches in Dejvice (Jugoslávských partyzánů 8), Průhonice (Květnové náměstí 11) and Brumlovka (Vyskoĉilova 2).
Radost FX
Bělehradská 120; tel: 224 254 776; www.radostfx.cz; Mon–Sat 11am–1am, Sun 10.30am–midnight; €
Connected to the eponymous club, this vegetarian restaurant offers a wide range of dishes with influences from the Mediterranean to Mexico to China.
Taverna Olympos
Kubelíkova 9; tel: 222 722 239; www.taverna-olympos.eu; daily 11.30am–11pm; €
Cheerful, popular Greek establishment, with a garden that is a favourite with families. Greek wine as well as tasty Hellenic comestibles.
The wood-beamed U Bílé Krávy
Bílá kráva
U Bílé Krávy
Rubešova 10, Vinohrady; tel: 224 239 570; www.bilakrava.cz; Mon–Fri 11.30am–11pm, Sat 5–11pm; €€
Tucked behind the National Museum, the ‘White Cow’ owes its name to the occupation of its owner, a cattle farmer in Burgundy, France. Most of the dishes use meat from his herd but a variety of seafood and lamb dishes also have their place on the menu. The wood-beamed, cottage-like building has a delightful ambience.