DISTANCE: 1km (0.75 mile)
TIME: A full day
START: Malostranská metro station
END: Belvedere
POINTS TO NOTE: Although this route only covers a short distance, there is a lot to pack in, as it includes many of Prague’s top sights. As one of Europe’s major tourist attractions Prague Castle is busy year-round, but try to avoid the weekend crowds, especially in summer.
Prague Castle, or Pražský hrad (www.hrad.cz; for opening times see box), sprawls across the district known as Hradčany. Set on a hill overlooking the city, it is Prague’s most impressive sight, especially when illuminated at night. More than 1,000 years old, it was the residence of the early Přemyslid rulers, who did well to establish their headquarters in this strategic position over the Vltava. Generations of rulers continued to expand the complex with churches and palaces, defensive and residential buildings. It is also the centre of spiritual power in the city, as the site of the cathedral of St Vitus, and it retains its link with temporal power as the residence of the president of the Czech Republic.
St Vitus’s Cathedral and the Castle
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Old Castle Steps
Begin at Malostranská metro station or the neighbouring tram stop. Turn left out of the station and walk up the hill, crossing Valdštejnská. This brings you to the bottom of the Old Castle Steps.
Emblem at Prague Castle
Czech Tourism
Lobkowicz Palace
The steep climb brings you up to the Black Tower 1 [map] (Černá věž) entrance to the castle. Through the gate on the left is the entrance to the Lobkowicz Palace 2 [map] (Lobkovický palác; www.lobkowicz.cz; daily 10am–6pm). Previously in the hands of the state, this building was returned to the Lobkowicz family and is now home to their private art collection. The star exhibit is Pieter Brueghel the Elder’s Haymaking, but there are also manuscripts by Mozart and Beethoven as well as a display of armour.
Guarding the Castle
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Golden Lane
Further up Jiřská and to the right is the entrance to the attractive Golden Lane 3 [map] (Zlatá uličká), one of the most popular attractions of the castle. It is said that Rudolf II housed his alchemists in these tiny houses, and Franz Kafka lived for a while at No. 22. At the end of the lane is the Dalibor Tower 4 [map] (Daliborka), part of the castle wall.
St George’s Basilica
Jiřská ends at Námestí sv. Jiří (St George’s Square). Immediately on the right is St George’s Basilica 5 [map] (Bazilika sv. Jiří), the oldest church still standing in the castle complex. It was founded in about ad 920 and rebuilt after a fire in the 12th century. Despite later alterations, the church has largely retained its Romanesque appearance. To the right of the choir is the Ludmilla Chapel, housing the tomb of the saint, the grandmother of Prince Wenceslas.
The church was part of a large monastic complex and the convent buildings next door now house short-term art exhibitions.
Golden Lane
Rod Purcell/Apa Publications
Old Royal Palace
Dominating Námestí sv. Jiří is the large bulk of St Vitus’s Cathedral. However, ignore this for the moment and pass through the arch between the church and buildings to the left, and turn sharp left to find the entrance to the Old Royal Palace 6 [map] (Starý královský palác).
An anteroom opens on to the Vladislav Hall (Vladislavský sál), named after King Vladislav II. This imposing late Gothic throne room was built by the architect Benedikt Ried between 1493 and 1502.
On the same level, to the right, is the Bohemian Chancellery. It was from here that the imperial ambassadors were ‘defenestrated’ in 1618 (for more information, click here), sparking off the Thirty Years’ War. At the far end of the Vladislav Hall is a balcony overlooking the interior of All Saints’ Chapel, and the staircase that leads up from a doorway in the left-hand wall of the hall brings you to the New Land Records Office. This is decorated with the heraldic emblems of the Land Rolls officials on the ceiling and walls. The exit to the palace rooms takes you down the Riders’ Staircase, built to allow rulers and guests to enter on horseback.
The lowest Gothic levels of the palace are now home to the exhibition The Story of Prague Castle. This informative display is particularly good for children; the first part leads from room to room describing the development of the castle in chronological order; the second tells the ‘Story of …’ various subjects, including learning, burials, the Church and patronage.
The Basilica of St George
Rod Purcell/Apa Publications
St Vitus
Continue around the cathedral to the main entrance at its western end. St Vitus’s Cathedral 7 [map] (Katedrála sv. Víta; Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm, Nov–Mar Mon–Sat 9am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm; vestibule free) is the largest church in Prague, the metropolitan church of the Archdiocese of Prague, the royal and imperial burial church and also the place where the royal regalia are kept. Steeped in history, it was founded in 1344. Charles IV employed the French Gothic architect Matthew of Arras, and, when he died after eight years, the work was taken over by Petr Parléř. Construction was interrupted in the first half of the 15th century by the Hussite Wars. The cathedral remained incomplete until the 1860s, when a Czech patriotic association, using the old plans, recommenced building, finishing in 1929.
Basilica of St George door detail
Rod Purcell/Apa Publications
Wenceslas Chapel
Aside from the magnificent vaulting in Parléř’s splendid nave, the jewel in the crown is the Wenceslas Chapel. Built by Parléř on the south transept, it is where the national saint Wenceslas was interred, and the walls are covered with frescoes and precious stones. A little door leads to the Treasure Chamber directly above the chapel. Here the Bohemian royal regalia are kept, behind seven locks, the seven keys of which are held by seven separate institutions.
Picture Gallery
Leave the cathedral and carry on through the archway immediately opposite the exit. This brings you to the Second Courtyard of the castle. By now you will probably be in need of refreshment, so turn left and take the archway out over the bridge (the Powder Bridge, or Prašný most) that leads away from the castle: a little further on is the restaurant Lví Dvůr, see 1.
After eating, retrace your steps to the entrance to the Second Courtyard. On your right is the Prague Castle Picture Gallery 8 [map] (Obrazárna Pražského hradu). This small but valuable collection was put together by Rudolf II, and although it has been plundered over the years, it still includes notable works by Rubens, Tintoretto, Titian and Veronese. Across the courtyard the Chapel of the Holy Cross protrudes, which holds the Treasury of St Vitus Cathedral exhibition (daily 10am–6pm).
Royal Garden and Belvedere
Cross back over the bridge then turn right into the Royal Garden 9 [map] (Královská zahrada; 10am–6pm), home to two important Renaissance buildings. The first is the Ball-Game Hall ) [map] (Míčovna), built in 1565–9 with a sgraffito facade. On the lower level is a modern greenhouse designed by architect Eva Jiřičná, while at the end of the gardens is the Belvedere ! [map] (Belvedér), built in 1537 as a summer palace.
Castle tickets
Entry to the castle complex is free. Tickets for the castle buildings and attractions are sold in the Second and Third Courtyard Information Centres of Prague Castle (Informční středisko pražského hradu; tel: 224 373 368). Two combined tickets offer a long or short tour (so check what you want to see before buying) and are valid for two days. The two tickets cover St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, the Story of Prague Castle, St George’s Basilica, Golden Lane and Daliborka Tower, the Castle Picture Gallery and the Powder Tower. Some additional museums and exhibitions carry an extra charge. Most buildings are open daily, Apr–Oct 9am–5pm, Nov–Mar 9am–4pm (unless otherwise stated). Note that you usually have to queue to get in St Vitus Cathedral, as visitor numbers are regulated.
Food and Drink
1 Lví Dvůr
U Prašného mostu 6; tel: 224 372 361; daily 11am–11pm; €€
Previously the castle menagerie and now a decent restaurant, with a small outdoor café and views over the cathedral and the palace gardens from its terrace. The food is mostly hearty and Czech, such as pork and dumplings, although there are a few lighter, Italian-inspired dishes.