A little bit of free-form knitting – I like to create on the needles, just letting shapes and stitches evolve and inform the construction. Inspired by the flotsam and jetsam of the city streets, scattered and assorted fibres – from paper and cotton to wool and silk – are reassembled in this sleeveless vest. This is a great project for using stash yarns. The back is in a voluminous wool, with a rib hem and then worked in stocking stitch with simple decreases. The front is knitted in a mix of yarns with an asymmetric split hem and a contrast yoke. Graphic shapes are worked in rib with stitch deflections and using the intarsia technique. It is finished with random rib rows for the neck and hand-stitched with contrast colour and hanging threads.
YARN
erika knight maxi wool – A, F
100% pure British wool
Approx. 80m (87yd) per 100g (3½oz) hank
erika knight gossypium cotton – B, C
100% cotton
Approx. 100m (109yd) per 50g (1¾oz) ball
Habu Silk Wrapped Paper – D
99% linen, 1% raw silk
Approx. 143m (156yd) per 14g (½oz) bundle
Isager Japansk Bomuld – E 2 strands held tog
100% cotton
Approx. 315m (344yd) per 50g (1¾oz) ball
NOTE
Design shown in all photos is a size Small. Colours:
A Canvas; B Milk; C Pitch; D White/black; E 13;
F Pitch. Model: UK size 6–8. Height: 5’6”.
MATERIALS
Quantity:
A 2(2:3) x 100g (3½oz) hanks
B 3(3:3) x 50g (1¾oz) balls
C 1(1:1) x 50g (1¾oz) balls
D 2(2:2) x 14g (½oz) bundles
E 1(1:1) x 50g (1¾oz) ball – 2 strands held tog
F 1(1:1) x 100g (3½oz) hank
4mm and 10mm needles
Stitch markers
Stitch holders
Spare needle
Large-eyed blunt-tipped sewing needle
NOTE
Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.
TENSION
9 sts and 13 rows to 10cm measured over St st using erika knight maxi wool and 10mm needles, after steaming.
21 sts and approx. 29 rows to 10cm measured over St st using erika knight gossypium cotton and 4mm needles, after steaming.
Change needle size as necessary to ensure the correct tension.
CHARTS
Visit hardiegrant.com/uk/quadrille/texture to view and download the chart for this project.
MAKE
BACK
Worked in rib and stocking stitch.
Using 10mm needles and A cast on 47(51:55) sts and work in K1, P1 rib as foll:
Row 1 (RS): [K1, P1] to last st, K1.
Row 2: [P1, K1] to last st, P1.
Rep last 2 rows 4(6:8) times more.
Place a marker at start of last WS row.
Beg with a K row cont in St st until work meas 30(32:34)cm from cast-on edge, ending with RS facing for next row.
Shape armholes:
Cast off 3(3:3) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 41(45:49) sts.
Next row (dec) (RS): K3, K2tog, K to last 4 sts, K2tog tbl, K3.
Next row (dec): P3, P2tog tbl, P to last 4 sts, P2tog, P3.
Rep last 2 rows once more. 33(37:41) sts.
Cont straight until armhole meas 17(19:21)cm from start of shaping, ending with RS facing for next row.
Shape back neck and shoulders:
Next row (RS): K11(12:13), turn and leave rem 22(25:28) sts on a holder.
Next row: Cast off 1(1:1) st, P to end of row. 10(11:12) sts.
Next row: Cast off 4(4:4) sts, K to end of row. 6(7:8) sts.
Next row: P to end of row.
Next row: Cast off 3(4:4) sts, K to end of row. 3(3:4) sts.
Next row: P to end of row.
Cast off rem sts.
With RS facing slip centre 11(13:15) sts onto a holder. Rejoin A to rem 11(12:13) sts and work as foll:
Next row (RS): Cast off 1(1:1) st, K to end of row. 10(11:12) sts.
Next row: Cast off 4(4:4) sts, P to end of row. 6(7:8) sts.
Next row: K to end of row.
Next row: Cast off 3(4:4) sts, P to end of row. 3(3:4) sts.
Cast off rem sts.
FRONT
Hems worked in two pieces and joined.
Note: Left and right are as worn.
RIGHT SIDE
Worked in K2, P2 rib.
Using 4mm needles and B cast on 38(42:46) sts and work in K2, P2 rib as foll:
Sizes M and L only
Setup row 1 (RS): [K2, P2] to last 2 sts, K2.
Setup row 2: [P2, K2] to last 2 sts, P2.
Rep last 2 rows -(1:3) times more.
All sizes:
Row 1 (RS): [K2, P2] to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 2: [P2, K2] to last 2 sts, P2.
Row 3 (inc): K2, M1, rib as set to end of row. 39(43:47) sts.
Row 4: Rib as set to last 5 sts, K3, P2.
Row 5: K2, P3, rib as set to end of row.
Row 6: Rib as set to last 5 sts, K3, P2.
Row 7 (inc): K2, M1, K1, rib as set to end of row. 40(44:48) sts.
Row 8: Rib as set to last 4 sts, P1, K1, P2.
Row 9: K2, P1, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 10: Rib as set to last 4 sts, P1, K1, P2.
Row 11 (inc): K2, M1, P1, K1, rib as set to end of row. 41(45:49) sts.
Row 12: Rib as set to last 5 sts, P2, K1, P2.
Row 13: K2, P1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 14: Rib as set to last 3 sts, K1, P2.
Row 15 (inc): K2, M1, P1, rib as set to end of row. 42(46:50) sts.
Row 16: Rib as set to last 4 sts, P2, K2.
Row 17: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 18: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 19 (inc): K2, M1, rib as set to end of row. 43(47:51) sts.
Row 20: Rib as set to last 5 sts, K3, P2.
Slip these sts onto a holder. Do not cut yarn.
LEFT SIDE
Worked in K1, P1 rib, stocking stitch and garter stitch.
Using 4mm needles and C cast on 38(42:46) sts and work in K1, P1 rib as foll:
Sizes M and L only:
Set up row 1 (RS): [K1, P1] to end of row.
Rep last row -(3:9) times more.
All sizes:
Row 1 (RS): [K1, P1] to end of row.
Row 2: [K1, P1] to end of row.
Row 3 (inc): Rib as set to last 5 sts, M1, rib 5 as set. 39(43:47) sts.
Row 4: Rib 5 as set, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 5: Rib to last 6 sts, P1, rib 5 as set.
Row 6: Rib 5 as set, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 7 (inc): Rib as set to last 5 sts, M1, rib 5 as set. 40(44:48) sts.
Row 8: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 9: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 10: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 11 (inc): Rib as set to last 5 sts, M1, rib 5 as set. 41(45:49) sts.
Row 12: Rib 5 as set, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 13: Rib to last 6 sts, P1, rib 5 as set.
Row 14: Rib 5 as set, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 15 (inc): Rib to last 5 sts, M1, rib 5 as set. 42(46:50) sts.
Row 16: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 17: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 18: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 19 (inc): Rib to last 5 sts, M1, rib 5 as set. 43(47:51) sts.
Row 20: Rib 5 as set, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 21: Rib to last 6 sts, P1, rib 5 as set.
Row 22: Rib 5 as set, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 23 (inc): Rib to last 5 sts, M1, rib 5 as set. 44(48:52) sts.
Row 24: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 25: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 26: Rib as set to end of row.
Row 27 (inc): Rib to last 5 sts, M1, rib 5 as set. 45(49:53) sts.
Row 28: Rib 5 as set, K1, rib as set to end of row. Pm at end of this row. Change to D.
Row 29 (RS): K to end of row.
Row 30: P to end of row.
Row 31 (inc): K to last 3 sts, M1, K3. 46(50:54) sts.
Row 32: P to end of row.
Row 34: P to end of row.
Row 35 (inc): K to last 3 sts, M1, K3. 47(51:55) sts.
Row 36: P to end of row.
Row 37: K to end of row.
Row 38: P to end of row.
Row 39 (inc): K to last 3 sts, M1, K3. 48(52:56) sts.
Row 40: P to end of row.
Join front pieces:
Note: When changing colours at the marker, twist the two yarns around each other on every row to avoid making a hole and always cross the yarns over on the WS of your work.
Row 1 (RS): Cont in D, K48(52:56), pm, then with RS of right side facing work across 43(47:51) sts from holder as foll, using B: K2, P3, rib as set to end of row. 91(99:107) sts.
Row 2: Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, K3, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 3 (inc): K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, K1, rib as set to last 2 sts, M1, K2. 92(100:108) sts.
Row 4: P2, K1, rib as set to 4 sts before marker, P1, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 5: K to marker, sm, K2, P1, rib as set to last 5 sts, P3, K2.
Row 6: P2, K3, rib as set to marker, sm, P to end of row.
Row 7 (inc): K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, K2, rib as set to last 3 sts, K1, M1, K2. 93(101:109) sts.
Row 8: P2, K1, P1, rib as set to 3 sts before marker, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 9: K to marker, sm, K2, P1, rib as set to last 4 sts, K1, P1, K2.
Row 10: P2, K1, P1, rib as set to 3 sts before marker, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 11 (inc): K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, P1, rib as set to last 4 sts, K1, P1, M1, K2. 94(102:110) sts.
Row 12: P2, K1, P2, rib as set to 4 sts before marker, K2, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 13: K to marker, sm, rib as set to last 3 sts, P1, K2.
Row 14: P2, K1, rib as set to marker, sm, P to end of row.
Row 15 (inc): K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, rib as set to last 3 sts, P1, M1, K2. 95(103:11) sts. Pm at end of this row.
Row 16: P2, K2, rib as set to 3 sts before marker, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 17: K to marker, sm, K2, P3, rib as set to end of row.
Row 18: Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, K3, P2, sm, P to end of row, placing a marker at beg of this row.
Row 19: K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 20: Rib as set to 4 sts before marker, P1, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 21: K to marker, sm, K2, P1, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 22: Rib as set to 4 sts before marker, P1, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 23: K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, K2, rib as set to end of row.
Row 24: Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, P2, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 25: K to marker, sm, K2, P1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 26: Rib as set to 3 sts before marker, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 27: K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, P1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 28: Rib as set to 3 sts before marker, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 29: K to marker, sm, rib as set to end of row.
Row 30: Rib as set to marker, sm, P to end of row.
Row 31: K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 32: Rib as set to 3 sts before marker, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 33: K to marker, sm, K2, P3, rib to end of row.
Row 34: Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, K3, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 35: K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, K1, P2, rib as set to end of row.
Row 36: Rib as set to 4 sts before marker, P1, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 37: K to marker, sm, K2, P1, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 38: Rib as set to 4 sts before marker, P1, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 39: K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, K2, rib as set to end of row.
Row 40: Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, P2, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 41: K to marker, sm, K2, P1, K2, rib as set to end of row.
Row 42: Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, P2, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 43: K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, P1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 44: Rib as set to 4 sts before marker, K2, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 45: K to marker, sm, rib as set to end of row.
Row 46: Rib as set to marker, sm, P to end of row.
Row 47: K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 48: Rib as set to 3 sts before marker, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 49: K to marker, K2, P3, rib as set to end of row.
Row 50: Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, K3, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Shape armholes:
Row 51 (RS): Cast off 5(5:5) sts, K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, K1, P2, rib as set to end of row. 90(98:106) sts.
Row 52: Cast off 5(5:5) sts, rib as set to 4 sts before marker, P1, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row. 85(93:101) sts.
Row 53 (dec): K5, K2tog, K to marker, sm, K2, P1, K1, P2, rib as set to last 8 sts, K2tog tbl, rib 6 as set. 83(91:99) sts.
Row 54: Rib as set to 4 sts before marker, P1, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 55 (dec): K5, K2tog, K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, K2, rib as set to last 8 sts, K2tog tbl, rib 6 as set. 81(89:97) sts.
Row 56: Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, P2, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 57 (dec): K5, K2tog, K to marker, sm, K2, P1, K2, rib as set to last 8 sts, K2tog tbl, rib 6 as set. 79(87:95) sts.
Row 58: Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, P2, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 59 (dec): K5, K2tog, K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, P1, rib as set to last 8 sts, K2tog tbl, rib 6 as set. 77(85:93) sts.
Row 60: Rib as set to 4 sts before marker, K2, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 61 (dec): K5, K2tog, K to marker, sm, rib as set to last 8 sts, K2tog tbl, rib 6 as set. 75(83:91) sts.
Row 62: Rib as set to marker, sm, P to end of row.
Row 63 (dec): K5, K2tog, K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, rib as set to last 8 sts, K2tog tbl, rib 6 as set. 73(81:89) sts.
Row 64: Rib as set to 3 sts before marker, K1, P2, sm, P to end of row.
Row 65: K to marker, sm, K2, P3, rib as set to end of row.
Row 66 (WS): Rib as set to 5 sts before marker, K3, P2, sm, change to E, K to end of row.
Row 67: K to 4 sts before marker, K2tog tbl, K2, sm, K2, M1, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 68: Rib as set to 4 sts before marker, P1, K1, P2, sm, K to end of row.
Row 69: K to marker, sm, K2, P1, K1, rib as set to end of row.
Row 70: Rib as set to 4 sts before marker, P1, K1, P2, sm, K to end of row.
Row 71 (dec): K1, [K2tog] to end of row, removing marker. 37(41:45) sts.
Change to 10mm needles and F, and work across all sts as foll:
Next row (WS): K to end of row.
Next row (dec): P to end of row, dec 4 sts evenly. 33(37:41) sts.
Cont in Rev St st until armhole meas 15(17:19)cm from start of shaping, ending with RS facing for next row.
Shape neck:
Next row (RS): P13(14:15), turn and leave rem 20(23:26) sts on a holder.
Next row: Cast off 2(2:2) sts, K to end of row. 11(12:13) sts.
Next row: P to end of row.
Next row: Cast off 1(1:1) st, K to end of row. 10(11:12) sts.
Shape shoulder:
Next row (RS): Cast off 4(4:4) sts, P to end of row. 6(7:8) sts.
Next row: K to end of row.
Next row: Cast off 3(4:4) sts, P to end of row. 3(3:4) sts.
Next row: K to end of row.
Cast off rem sts.
Cut yarn leaving a long end.
With RS facing slip centre 7(9:11) sts onto a holder. Rejoin F to rem 13(14:15) sts and work as foll:
Next row (RS): Cast off 2(2:2) sts, P to end of row. 11(12:13) sts.
Next row: K to end of row.
Next row: Cast off 1(1:1) st, P to end of row. 10(11:12) sts.
Shape shoulder:
Next row (WS): Cast off 4(4:4) sts, K to end of row. 6(7:8) sts.
Next row: P to end of row.
Next row: Cast off 3(4:4) sts, K to end of row. 3(3:4) sts.
Next row: P to end of row.
Cast off rem sts.
Cut yarn leaving a long end.
FINISH
Join right shoulder seam with RS tog.
Using 10mm needles, RS facing and F, and starting at left shoulder pick up and K 9(9:9) sts down left front neck, 7(9:11) sts from centre front holder, 9(9:9) sts up right front neck, 6(6:6) sts down right back neck, 11(13:15) sts from centre back holder, and pick up and K 6(6:6) sts up left back neck. 48(52:56) sts.
Next row (WS): [K1, P1] to end of row. Rep last row 3 times more.
Next row: Cast off 25(27:29) sts, rib as set to end of row. 23(25:27) sts.
Cast off in rib.
Cut yarn leaving a long end.
Weave in any ends on the WS of the work. Choose a flat padded surface or blocking board, pin work out to measurements with WS facing. Cover with a damp cloth and gently steam. Leave to dry flat.
Place a marker 13cm down from the start of the armhole shaping on the right side of the back.
Join neckband seam and sew side seams, starting from the armholes, leaving them undone below the markers to create side vents.
Using multiple strands of E and blanket st, embroider along front of neck, leaving ends hanging free. On the back meas approx. 9(10:11)cm down from shoulder and using 2 strands of F embroider running sts horizontally (refer to photos).
