Fodo_9781101879061_p02

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Updated By Paul Rubio

Three quarters of a century after the art deco movement, Miami remains one of the world’s trendiest and flashiest hot spots. Luckily for visitors, South Beach is no longer the only place to stand and pose in Miami. North of downtown, the growing Wynwood and Design districts—along with nearby Midtown—are home to Miami’s hipster and fashionista movements, and the South Beach “scene” continues to extend both north and west, with the addition of new venues north of 20th Street, south of 5th Street, and along the bay on West Avenue. The reopening of the mammoth Fontainebleau and its enclave of nightclubs and restaurants along Mid-Beach paved the way for a mid-beach renaissance, luring other globally renowned resorts, lounges, and restaurants into the neighborhood, such as the Soho Beach House and the Faena District Miami Beach, a multiblock project in mid-Beach by Argentinian icon and developer Alan Faena, scheduled for a 2017 completion.

Visit Miami today and it’s hard to believe that 100 years ago it was a mosquito-infested swampland, with an Indian trading post on the Miami River. Then hotel builder Henry Flagler brought his railroad to the outpost known as Fort Dallas. Other visionaries—Carl Fisher, Julia Tuttle, William Brickell, and John Sewell, among others—set out to tame the unruly wilderness. Hotels were erected, bridges were built, the port was dredged, and electricity arrived. The narrow strip of mangrove coast was transformed into Miami Beach—and the tourists started to come. They haven’t stopped since!

Greater Miami is many destinations in one. At its best it offers an unparalleled multicultural experience: melodic Latin and Caribbean tongues, international cuisines and cultural events, and an unmistakable joie de vivre—all against a beautiful beach backdrop. In Little Havana the air is tantalizing with the perfume of strong Cuban coffee. In Coconut Grove, Caribbean steel drums ring out during the Miami/Bahamas Goombay Festival. Anytime in colorful Miami Beach, restless crowds wait for entry to the hottest new clubs.

Many visitors don’t know that Miami and Miami Beach are really separate cities. Miami, on the mainland, is South Florida’s commercial hub. Miami Beach, on 17 islands in Biscayne Bay, is sometimes considered America’s Riviera, luring refugees from winter with its warm sunshine; sandy beaches; graceful, shady palms; and tireless nightlife. The natives know well that there’s more to Greater Miami than the bustle of South Beach and its Art Deco District. In addition to well-known places such as Ocean Drive and Lincoln Road, the less reported spots—like the burgeoning Design District in Miami, the historic buildings of Coral Gables, and the secluded beaches of Key Biscayne—are great insider destinations.

Top Reasons to Go

The beach: Miami Beach has been rated as one of the 10 best beaches in the world. White sand, warm water, and bronzed bodies everywhere provide just the right mix of relaxation and people-watching.

Dining delights: Miami’s eclectic residents have transformed the city into a museum of epicurean wonders, ranging from Cuban and Argentine fare to fusion haute cuisine.

Wee-hour parties: A 24-hour liquor license means clubs stay open until 5 am, and after-parties go until noon the following day.

Picture-perfect people: Miami is a watering hole for the vain and beautiful of South America, Europe, and the Northeast. Watch them—or join them—as they strut their stuff and flaunt their tans on the white beds of renowned art deco hotels.

Art Deco District: Iconic pastels and neon lights accessorize the architecture that first put South Beach on the map in the 1930s.

Getting Oriented

Long considered the gateway to Latin America, Miami is as close to Cuba and the Caribbean as you can get within the United States. The 36-square-mile city is at the southern tip of the Florida peninsula, bordered on the east by Biscayne Bay. Over the bay lies a series of barrier islands, the largest being a thin 18-square-mile strip called Miami Beach. To the east of Miami Beach is the Atlantic Ocean. To the south are the Florida Keys.

What’s Where

Downtown. Weave through the glass-and-steel labyrinth of new condo construction to catch a game or a new exhibition.

Coconut Grove. Catch dinner and a movie, listen to live music, or cruise the bohemian shops.

Coral Gables. Dine and shop on family-friendly Miracle Mile, and take a driving tour of the surrounding neighborhoods.

Key Biscayne. Explore the pristine parks and stretches of award-winning beaches by boat, kayak, or foot.

Wynwood. Eat, shop, and gawk your way through this trendy, creative neighborhood north of downtown.

Midtown. Experience yuppie life in this residential enclave chock full of fabulous restaurants and lounges.

Design District. Browse the design showrooms and haute boutiques before dining at Miami’s trendiest restaurants.

Little Haiti. Practice your Creole and sample Haitian food in this interesting ethnic neighborhood.

Little Havana. Sip Cuban coffee, roll cigars, and play dominoes in the heart and soul of Cuba’s exile community.

South Beach. People-watch from sidewalk cafés, admire art deco, and party ’til dawn at the nation’s hottest clubs.

Mid-Beach. Experience the booming restaurant scene and trendy hotels just beyond South Beach.

Fisher and Belle Isle. Be near the pulse of Miami Beach but a man-made island away.

North Beach. Shop and relax in the quieter northern end of Miami Beach, which also encompasses Aventura, Bal Harbour, and Sunny Isles.

Planning

When to Go

Miami and Miami Beach are year-round destinations. Most people come from November through April, when the weather is close to perfect; hotels, restaurants, and attractions are busiest; and each weekend holds a festival or event. High season kicks off in December with Art Basel Miami Beach, and hotel rates don’t come down until after the college kids have left after spring break in late March.

It’s hot and steamy May through September, but nighttime temperatures are usually pleasant. Also, summer is a good time for the budget traveler. Many hotels lower their rates considerably, and many restaurants offer discounts—especially during Miami Spice in August and September, when a slew of top restaurants offer special tasting menus at a steep discount.

Festivals and Annual Events

Fodor’s Choice | Art Basel Miami Beach.
The most prestigious art show in the United States is held every December, with plenty of fabulous parties to go along with the pricey art. This is a who’s-who of the art world where collectors, emerging artists, renowned artists, curators, gallerists, and art aficionados convene alongside novices, trendsetters, and glitterati. While the main exhibition is held at the Miami Beach Convention Center, dozens of smaller exhibitions are set up on the beach, downtown, and in the Wynwood District at galleries, event spaces, and in hotel lobbies. The exquisite art and sensational people-watching more than soften the blow of exorbitant hotel prices, heavy traffic, and long waits. TIP Plan ahead to make the most of Art Basel, which includes purchasing tickets or securing your name on guest lists in advance. | www.artbasel.com.

Art Deco Weekend.
This annual weekend of all things art deco was started by the Miami Preservation League in the 1970s to draw attention to and celebrate Miami Beach’s Art Deco Historic District. Tours, lectures, film screenings, and dozens of other 1930s-themed events are on tap over this January weekend. Festivities—many of them free—begin on Friday, followed by a Saturday morning parade and street fair. More than a quarter of a million people join in the action, which centers on Ocean Drive between 5th and 15th streets. | www.artdecoweekend.com.

Carnaval Miami.
The Caribbean and Latin America know how to celebrate Carnival in style, so it’s only natural their tropical stepsister does, too! Each year, Miami’s pre-Lentan celebrations in February and/or March climax during Carnaval Miami. One of the main celebrations is held every year on Calle 8. The wild and fun street festival in the heart of Little Havana is the last blowout before Lent begins. This Sunday street party attracts more than a million people, who dance in the streets and enjoy more than two dozen stages of DJs and live music. | www.carnavalmiami.com.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Swim.
While Paris, Milan, New York, and London take center stage in the fashion world during fall, winter, and spring, summertime is Miami’s turn to steal the limelight during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Swim or “Miami Swim Week.” Since 2004, every mid-July the celeb-studded week is marked by official fashion shows and plenty of pre- and postparties. Expect to be wowed by the rockin’ bodies and the two pieces (or lack thereof). Check the official site to get the 411 on the fashion shows and events. For the parties, it’s best to rely on your friends in-the-know. | swimweek.com/.

Miami International Boat Show.
Every February, fans of leisure boating and related sports flock to Miami for the city’s renowned International Boat Show, held across three locations. Highlights of the five-day show include educational seminars, contests and giveaways, receptions, meet and greets with celebrity boaters, and plenty of exhibits on all aspects of boating. | www.miamiboatshow.com.

Fodor’s Choice | South Beach Wine and Food Festival.
The Food Network’s star-studded four-day weekend each February, presented by Food & Wine, showcases the flavors and ingenuity of the country’s top chefs and wine and spirits producers. Personalities like Anne Burrell, Masahuru Morimoto, and Rachel Ray headline brunches, lunches, dinners, and seminars across Miami Beach. The festival attracts more than 60,000 attendees annually. To avoid disappointment, book your choice events far in advance. | 877/762–3933 for ticketed events | www.sobefest.com.

Ultra Music Festival.
One of the world’s best-known electronic music events, the massive Ultra Music Festival has been taking place in Miami every spring since 1999. The festival has drawn crowds of nearly 200,000 revelers. Until 2011 the Ultra Music Festival was part of the Winter Music Conference but has since spun off into its own mega-event. | www.ultramusicfestival.com.

White Party Week.
More than 30 years strong, White Party began in 1985 as a pioneering fund-raiser to raise money for AIDS research and awareness. Nowadays, Thanksgiving weekend is one of the most anticipated weekends of the year in LGBT community thanks to the White Party (and another reason not to have that extra scoop of stuffing). The official “White Party” takes place on Saturday evening, when thousands of gay men, women, and their friends get decked out in white and party the night away under the stars at the Perez Art Musuem to the sounds of world-famous DJs and recording artists. There are plenty of after-parties later that Saturday as well as several the Friday before and the Sunday after. On Sunday, the Muscle Beach Party attracts over 5,000 muscle boys for an afternoon of bare-chested dancing, inebriation, and barefoot escapades. Like its genesis, the event remains a charitable event to support Care-Resource, a nonprofit, community-based AIDS service organization. So tickets are tax deductible! Host hotels change annually, so check the website to see which SoBe favorite is hosting this year. | www.whiteparty.org.

Winter Music Conference.
Since 1985, the largest DJ showcase in the world has rocked Miami every March, when South Beach truly turns into one big ‘ole party with more than 100,000 attendees. The latest and greatest in electronic music (to the tune of 2,000 performers and 500 events) diffuses through the lobbies and pools of Miami’s most iconic hotels, public spaces, and local event arenas. | www.wintermusicconference.com.

Winter Party Festival.
An extended weekend of LGBTQ beach parties, pool parties, and raging nightlife attracts more than 10,000 to South Beach in early March, benefitting the National Gay and Lesbian Task Force. More than 20 years strong, this long weekend is the ultimate pageantry of big muscles and hard bodies. | www.winterparty.com.

Getting Here and Around

You’ll need a car to visit many attractions and points of interest. If possible, avoid driving during the rush hours of 7–9 am and 5–7 pm—the hour just after and right before the peak times also can be slow going. During rainy weather, be especially cautious of flooding in South Beach and Key Biscayne.

Air Travel

Miami is serviced by Miami International Airport (MIA), 8 miles northwest of downtown, and Fort Lauderdale–Hollywood International Airport (FLL), 26 miles northeast. Many discount carriers, like Spirit Airlines, Southwest Airlines, and JetBlue, fly into FLL, making it a smart bargain if you’re renting a car. Otherwise, look for flights to MIA, which recently underwent an extensive face-lift, improving facilities, common spaces, and the overall aesthetic of the airport.

Car Travel

Interstate 95 is the major expressway connecting South Florida with points north; State Road 836 is the major east–west expressway and connects to Florida’s Turnpike, State Road 826, and Interstate 95. Seven causeways link Miami and Miami Beach, with I–195 and I–395 offering the most convenient routes; the Rickenbacker Causeway extends to Key Biscayne from I–95 and U.S. 1. The high-speed lanes on the left-hand side of I–95 require a prepaid toll pass called a “Sunpass,” available in most drug and grocery stores or can be ordered by mail before your trip. It is sometimes included with your rental car (but you are billed for the tolls and associated fees later).

Public Transportation

Some sights are accessible via the public transportation system, run by the Metro-Dade Transit Agency, which maintains 740 Metrobuses on 90 routes; the 23-mile Metrorail elevated rapid-transit system; and the Metromover, an elevated light-rail system. Those planning to use public transportation should get an EASY Card or EASY Ticket available at any Metrorail station and most supermarkets. Fares are discounted, and transfer fees are nominal. The bus stops for the Metrobus are marked with blue-and-green signs with a bus logo and route information. The fare is $2.25 (exact change only). Cash-paying customers must pay for another ride if transferring. Some express routes carry a surcharge of 40¢. Elevated Metrorail trains run from downtown Miami north to Hialeah and south along U.S. 1 to Dadeland. The system operates daily 5 am–midnight. The fare is $2.25; $0.60 transfers to Metrobus are available only for EASY Card and EASY Ticket holders. The free Metromover resembles an airport shuttle and runs on two loops around downtown Miami, linking major hotels, office buildings, and shopping areas. The system spans 4.4 miles, including the 1-mile Omni Loop and the 1-mile Brickell Loop. Tri-Rail, South Florida’s commuter-train system, stops at 18 stations north of MIA along a 71-mile route. There’s a Metrorail transfer station two stops north of MIA. Prices range from $2.50 to $6.90 for a one-way ticket.

Contacts
Metro-Dade Transit Agency. | 305/891–3131 | www.miamidade.gov/transit/.
Tri-Rail. | 800/874–7245 | www.tri-rail.com.

Cruise Ship Travel

PortMiami, in downtown Miami near Bayside Marketplace and the MacArthur Causeway, justifiably bills itself as the Cruise Capital of the World (2014 was another record-breaking year with 4.8 million multiday cruise passengers). Home to eight passenger terminals and the largest year-round cruise fleet in the world, the port accommodates more than 4 million passengers a year for sailings from 3 to 14 days and sometimes longer duration. You can get taxis at all the terminals, and car-rental agencies offer shuttles to off-site lots.

If you are driving, take Interstate 95 north or south to Interstate 395. Follow the directional signs to the Biscayne Boulevard exit. When you get to Biscayne Boulevard, make a right. Go to 5th Street, which becomes Port Boulevard (look for the AmericanAirlines Arena); then follow the signs for the Miami Port Tunnel. Follow the directional signs to your terminal.

Contacts
PortMiami. | 1015 North American Way | Miami | 305/347–4800 | www.miamidade.gov/portmiami.

Taxi Travel

Except in South Beach, it’s difficult to hail a cab on the street; in most cases you’ll need to call a cab company or have a hotel doorman hail one for you. Taxi drivers in Miami are notorious for bad customer service and not having credit card machines in their vehicles. These days, many people use Uber to avoid this taxi drama; however, in order to use Uber you must sign up with the company and have the Uber app installed on your smartphone. If using a regular taxi, note that fares run $2.50 for the first 1/6 of a mile and $2.40 every mile thereafter. Flat-rate fares are also available from the airport to a variety of zones (including Miami Beach) for $32. Expect a $2 surcharge on rides leaving from Miami International Airport or the Port of Miami. For those heading from MIA to downtown, the 15-minute, 7-mile trip costs around $22. Some cabs accept credit cards but not all, so ask when you get in.

Train Travel

Amtrak provides service from 500 destinations to the Greater Miami area. The trains make several stops along the way; north–south service stops in the major Florida cities of Jacksonville, Orlando, Tampa, West Palm Beach, and Fort Lauderdale, but stations are not always conveniently located. The Auto Train (where you bring your car along) travels from Lorton, Virginia, just outside Washington, D.C., to Sanford, Florida, just outside Orlando. From there it’s less than a four-hour drive to Miami. Fares vary, but expect to pay between around $275 and $350 for a basic sleeper seat and car passage each way. TIP You must be traveling with an automobile to purchase a ticket on the Auto Train.

Visitor Information

For additional information about Miami and Miami Beach, contact the city’s visitor bureaus. You can also pick up a free Miami Beach INcard at the Miami Beach Visitors Center 10–4, seven days a week, entitling you to discounts and offers at restaurants, shops, galleries, and more.

Cuban Food

If the tropical vibe has you hankering for Cuban food, you’ve come to the right place. Miami is the top spot in the country to enjoy authentic Cuban cooking.

The flavors and preparations of Cuban cuisine are influenced by the island nation’s natural bounty (yuca, sugarcane, guava), as well as its rich immigrant history, from near (Caribbean countries) and far (Spanish and African traditions). Chefs in Miami tend to stick with the classic versions of beloved dishes, though you’ll find some variation from restaurant to restaurant, as recipes have often been passed down through generations of home cooks. For a true Cuban experience, try either the popular Versailles (3555 S.W. 8th St. | 305/444–0240 | www.versaillesrestaurant.com) or classic La Carreta (3632 S.W. 8th St. | 305/444–7501) in Little Havana, appealing to families seeking a home-cooked, Cuban-style meal. For a modern interpretation of Cuban eats, head to Coral Gable’s Havana Harry’s (4612 S. Le Jeune Rd. | 305/661–2622). South Beach eatery Puerto Sagua Restaurant (700 Collins Ave. | 305/673–1115) is the beach’s favorite Cuban hole-in-the-wall, open daily from 7 am to 2 am.

The Cuban Sandwich

A great cubano (Cuban sandwich) requires pillowy Cuban bread layered with ham, garlic-citrus-marinated slow-roasted pork, Swiss cheese, and pickles (plus salami in Tampa, lettuce and tomatoes in Key West), with butter and/or mustard. The sandwich is grilled in a sandwich press until the cheese melts and all the elements are fused together. Try one at Enriqueta’s Sandwich Shop (2830 N.E. 2nd Ave. | 305/573–4681 | Weekdays 6 am–4 pm, Sat. 6 am–2 pm) in Wynwood, or Exquisito Restaurant (1510 S.W. 8th St. | 305/643–0227 | Daily 7 am–midnight) in Little Havana.

Key Cuban Dishes

Arroz con Pollo

This chicken-and-rice dish is Cuban comfort food. Found throughout Latin America, the Cuban version is typically seasoned with garlic, paprika, and onions, then colored golden or reddish with saffron or achiote (a seed paste), and enlivened with a sizable splash of beer near the end of cooking. Green peas and sliced, roasted red peppers are standard toppings.

Bistec de Palomilla

This thinly sliced sirloin steak is marinated in lime juice and garlic and fried with onions. The steak is often served with chimichurri sauce, an olive oil, garlic, and cilantro sauce that sometimes comes with bread (slather bread with butter and dab on the chimichurri). Also try ropa vieja, a slow-cooked, shredded flank steak in a garlic-tomato sauce.

Desserts

Treat yourself to a slice of tres leches cake. The “three milks” come from the sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, and heavy cream that are poured over the cake until it’s an utterly irresistible gooey mess. Also, don’t miss the pastelitos, Cuban fruit-filled turnovers. Traditional flavors include plain guava, guava with cream cheese, and cream cheese with coconut. Yum!

Drinks

Sip guarapo (gwa-RA-poh), a fresh sugarcane juice that isn’t really as sweet as you might think, or grab a straw and enjoy a frothy batido (bah-TEE-doe), a Cuban-style milk shake made with tropical fruits like mango, piña (pineapple), or mamey (mah-MAY, a tropical fruit with a melon-cherry taste). For a real twist, try the batido de trigo—a wheat shake that will remind you of sugar-glazed breakfast cereal.

Fritas

If you’re in the mood for an inexpensive, casual Cuban meal, have a frita—a hamburger with distinctive Cuban flair. It’s made with ground beef that’s mixed with ground or finely chopped chorizo, spiced with pepper, paprika, and salt, topped with sautéed onions and shoestring potato fries, and then served on a bun slathered with a special tomato-based ketchup-like sauce.

Lechon Asado

Fresh ham or an entire suckling pig marinated in mojo criollo (parsley, garlic, sour orange, and olive oil) is roasted until fork tender and served with white rice, black beans, and tostones (fried plantains) or yuca (pronounced YU-kah), a starchy tuber with a mild nut taste that’s often sliced into fat sticks and deep-fried like fries.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents