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Exploring | Where to Eat | Sports and the Outdoors
Through the early 1960s the world’s largest cypress-logging industry prospered in Big Cypress Swamp until nearly all the trees were cut down. With the demise of the industry, government entities began buying parcels. Now more than 729,000 acres, or nearly half of the swamp, form this national preserve. “Big” refers not to the new-growth trees but to the swamp, jutting into the north edge of Everglades National Park like a jigsaw-puzzle piece. Size and strategic location make Big Cypress an important link in the region’s hydrological system, where rainwater first flows through the preserve, then south into the park, and eventually into Florida Bay. Its variegated pattern of wet prairies, ponds, marshes, sloughs, and strands provides a wildlife sanctuary, and thanks to a policy of balanced land use—”use without abuse”—the watery wilderness is devoted to recreation as well as to research and preservation. Bald cypress trees that may look dead are actually dormant, with green needles springing to life in spring. The preserve allows—in limited areas—hiking, hunting, and off-road vehicle use (airboat, swamp buggy, four-wheel drive) by permit. Compared with Everglades National Park, the preserve is less developed and hosts fewer visitors. That makes it ideal for naturalists, birders, and hikers preferring to see more wildlife than people.
Several scenic drives link from Tamiami Trail, some requiring four-wheel-drive vehicles, especially in wet summer months. A few lead to camping areas and roadside picnic spots. Apart from the Oasis Visitor Center, popular as a springboard for viewing alligators, the newer Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center features a platform for watching manatees. Both centers, along Tamiami Trail between Miami and Naples, feature a top-notch 25-minute film on Big Cypress.
Park Essentials
Admission Fees There’s no admission fee to visit the preserve.
Admission Hours The park is open 24 hours daily, year-round. Accessible only by boat, Adams Key is for day use only.
Contacts Big Cypress National Preserve.
Big Cypress, open year-round, has an allure all its own, especially for those who prefer few people and more wildlife roaming about. To avoid steam heat, try visiting in winter. | 239/695–1201 | www.nps.gov/bicy.
Exploring
Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center.
As a sister to the Oasis Visitor Center, the newer Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center on the preserve’s western side has abundant information, as well as restrooms, picnic facilities, and a 70-seat auditorium. An outdoor breezeway showcases an interactive Big Cypress watershed exhibit, illustrating Florida water flow. It’s a great place to stop when crossing from either coast. TIP Love manatees? A platform allows for viewing these intriguing mammals, attracted to warm water. (They were possibly once mistaken for mermaids by thirsty or love-starved ancient sailors.) | 33000 Tamiami Trail E, 5 miles east of SR29 | Ochopee | 239/695–4758 | www.nps.gov/bicy/planyourvisit/visitorcenters.htm | Free | Daily 9–4:30.
Clyde Butcher’s Big Cypress Gallery.
For taking swamp memories in stark black and white back home, you can’t do better than picking up a postcard, calendar, or more serious piece of artwork by photographer Clyde Butcher at his namesake trailside gallery. Butcher, a big guy with an even bigger beard, is an affable personality renowned for his knowledge of the ‘Glades and his ability to capture its magnetism through a large-format lens. Even if you can’t afford his big stuff, you’re warmly invited to gaze. Out back, Butcher and his wife Niki also rent a bungalow ($225 per night, October–April) and a cottage ($295 per night, year-round). TIP Ask about Clyde’s muck-abouts or Saturday Swamp Walks ($50), September through March. You’ll need a hat, long pants, old sneakers, and—because you will get wet—spare, dry clothing. | MM 54.5, 52388 Tamiami Trail | Ochopee | 239/695–2428 | www.clydebutchersbigcypressgallery.com | Daily 10–5.
Oasis Visitor Center.
The big attraction at Oasis Visitor Center, on the east side of Big Cypress Preserve, is the observation deck for viewing fish, birds, and other wildlife. A small butterfly garden’s native plants seasonally attract winged wonders. Inside, you’ll find an exhibit area, bookshop, and a theater showing an informative 25-minute film on Big Cypress Preserve swamplands. Leashed pets allowed, but not on boardwalk deck. TIP Get your gator watch on at the center’s observation deck where big alligators congregate. | 52105 Tamiami Trail | Ochopee | 24 miles east of Everglades City, 50 miles west of Miami, 20 miles west of Shark Valley | 239/695–1201 | www.nps.gov/bicy/planyourvisit/visitorcenters | Free | Daily 9–4:30.
FAMILY | Ochopee Post Office.
North America’s smallest post office is a former irrigation pipe shed on the Tamiami Trail’s south side. Blink and you’ll risk missing it. To support this picturesque outpost during an era of postal service cutbacks, why not buy a postcard of this one-room shack for mailing to whomever would appreciate it? Mail packages or buy money orders here, too. | 38000 E. Tamiami Trail, 4 miles east of Rte. 29 | Ochopee | 239/695–2099 | Weekdays 8–10 and noon–4, Sat. 10–11:30.
Where to Eat
Joanie’s Blue Crab Cafe.
$ | SEAFOOD | West of the nation’s tiniest post office by a quarter mile or so, you’ll find this red barn of a place dishing out catfish, frogs’ legs, gator, grouper, burgers, salads, and (no surprise here) an abundance of soft-shell crabs, crab cakes, and she-crab soup. Entrées run from around $15 and up, and peanut butter pie makes for a solid finish. Grab an icy beer from the cooler or order wine by the glass and eat out front or on the back patio—keep an eye out for Gertrude, a neighborhood gator on the loose. Joanie’s doors are open from 11 am to 5 pm, so don’t be late for supper, and don’t be surprised if there’s some live entertainment. | Average main: $13 | 39395 Tamiami Trail | Ochopee | About 3.5 miles east of Hwy. 29, less than a mile west of Ochopee post office | 239/695–2682 | www.joaniesbluecrabcafe.com | Closed Mon. (varies seasonally; call to confirm).
Sports and the Outdoors
There are three types of trails—walking (including part of the extensive Florida National Scenic Trail), canoeing, and bicycling. All three trail types are easily accessed from the Tamiami Trail near the preserve visitor center, and one boardwalk trail departs from the center. Canoe and bike equipment can be rented from outfitters in Everglades City, 24 miles west, and Naples, 40 miles west.
Hikers can tackle the Florida National Scenic Trail, which begins in the preserve and is divided into segments 6.5 to 28 miles each. Two 5-mile trails, Concho Billy and Fire Prairie, can be accessed off Turner River Road, a few miles east. Turner River Road and Birdon Road form a 17-mile gravel loop drive that’s excellent for birding. Bear Island has about 32 miles of scenic, flat, looped trails that are ideal for bicycling. Most trails are hard-packed lime rock, but a few miles are gravel. Cyclists share the road with off-road vehicles, most plentiful from mid-November through December.
To see the best variety of wildlife from your vehicle, follow 26-mile Loop Road, south of U.S. 41 and west of Shark Valley, where alligators, raccoons, and soft-shell turtles crawl around beside the gravel road, often swooped upon by swallowtail kites and brown-shouldered hawks. Stop at H. P. Williams Roadside Park, west of the Oasis, and walk along the boardwalk to spy gators, turtles, and garfish in the river waters.
Ranger Programs
From the Oasis Visitor Center you can get in on the seasonal ranger-led or self-guided activities, such as campfire and wildlife talks, hikes, slough slogs, and canoe excursions. The 8-mile Turner River Canoe Trail begins nearby and crosses through Everglades National Park before ending in Chokoloskee Bay, near Everglades City. Rangers lead four-hour canoe trips and two-hour swamp walks in season; call for days and times. Bring shoes and long pants for swamp walks and be prepared to wade at least knee-deep in water. Ranger program reservations are accepted up to 14 days in advance.