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Lauderdale-by-the-Sea | Pompano Beach | Deerfield Beach
North of Fort Lauderdale’s Birch Recreation Area, Route A1A edges away from the beach through a stretch known as Galt Ocean Mile, and a succession of oceanside communities line up against the sea. Traffic can line up, too, as it passes through a changing pattern of beach-blocking high-rises and modest family vacation towns and back again. As far as tourism goes, these communities tend to cater to a different demographic than Fort Lauderdale. Europeans and cost-conscious families head to Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, Pompano, and Deerfield for fewer frills and longer stays.
Lauderdale-by-the-Sea
Lauderdale-by-the-Sea is 5 miles north of Fort Lauderdale.
Just north of Fort Lauderdale’s northern boundary, this low-rise family resort town traditionally digs in its heels at the mere mention of high-rises. The result is choice shoreline access that’s rapidly disappearing in nearby communities. Without a doubt, Lauderdale-by-the-Sea takes delight in embracing its small beach-town feel and welcoming guests to a different world of years gone by.
Getting Here and Around
Lauderdale-by-the-Sea is just north of Fort Lauderdale. If you’re driving from Interstate 95, exit east onto Commercial Boulevard and head over the Intracoastal Waterway. From U.S. 1 (aka Federal Highway), turn east on Commercial Boulevard. If coming from A1A, just continue north from Fort Lauderdale Beach.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Lauderdale-by-the-Sea Chamber of Commerce. | 4201 N Ocean Dr. | 954/776–1000 | www.lbts.com.
Beaches
FAMILY | Lauderdale-by-the-Sea Beach.
Especially popular with divers and snorkelers, this laid-back stretch of sand provides great access to lovely coral reefs. When you’re not underwater, look up and you’ll likely see a pelican flying by. Gentle trade winds make this an utterly relaxing retreat from the hubbub of Fort Lauderdale’s busier beaches. That said, the southern part of the beach at Commercial Boulevard. and A1A is often busy due to a concentrated number of restaurants at the intersection, including the wildly popular Aruba Beach Cafe. Going north from Commercial Boulevard, the beach is lined with no-frills hotels and small inns for families and vacationers visiting Fort Lauderdale for longer periods of time, mainly Europeans. Look for metered parking around Commercial Boulevard and A1A. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee). Best for: snorkeling; swimming. | Commercial Blvd. at Hwy. A1A.
Where to Eat
FAMILY | Aruba Beach Café.
$$$ | CAFÉ | This casual beachfront eatery is always crowded and always fun. One of Lauderdale-by-the-Sea’s most famous restaurants, Aruba Beach serves a wide range of American and Caribbean cuisine, including Caribbean conch chowder and conch fritters. There are also fresh tropical salads, sandwiches, and seafood. The café is famous for its divine fresh-baked Bimini bread with Aruba glaze (think challah with donut glaze). A band performs day and night, so head for the back corner with excellent views of the beach if you want conversation while you eat and drink. Sunday breakfast buffet starts at 9 am. | Average main: $21 | 1 Commercial Blvd. | 954/776–0001 | www.arubabeachcafe.com.
Blue Moon Fish Company.
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Since the late 1990s, Blue Moon Fish Company has never faltered on the magic that comes from the seafood-centric kitchen, where chefs create moon-and-stars-worthy dishes. Though the restaurant was completely renovated in 2014, the menu remains true to its ocean-to-table core with incredibly fresh local catch and stellar New England seafood. Start with whole roasted garlic and bread and continue on to the mussels, the rosemary roasted golden beets salad, and the pan-roasted yellowtail snapper. For Sunday’s Champagne brunch extravaganza ($58.95) book early, even in the off-season. Ask to sit outside to enjoy the vistas of the Intracoastal Waterway. | Average main: $42 | 4405 W. Tradewinds Ave. | 954/267–9888 | www.bluemoonfishco.com.
Fodor’s Choice | JoJo’s Tacos.
$ | MODERN MEXICAN | Following 20 years in the world of white-glove dining, Chef Joseph Parsons returned home to Fort Lauderdale to open this intimate, no-frills yet fabulous taco joint that mixes authentic Mexican flavors with hefty portions of innovation to produce some pretty amazing fusion eats. This place is true foodie fantasia with an adventurous menu of $6 tacos, including the blow-your-mind delish vegetarian “Shrooms & Asp” taco and the sweet-and-sour “Peachy Pollo” taco (two to three tacos usually is big enough for a meal). The resto’s motto “We Rock The Guac!” is a testament to just how darn good the guacamole is; the savory fire-roasted street corn and the coconut and macadamia nut-crusted fried ice cream ain’t bad either! | Average main: $14 | 216 Commercial Blvd. | 954/835–5561 | www.jojostacos.com.
LaSpada’s Original Hoagies.
$ | AMERICAN | The crew at this seaside hole-in-the-wall puts on quite a show of ingredient-tossing flair while assembling takeout hoagies, subs, and deli sandwiches. Locals rave that they are the best around. LaSpada’s popularity has resulted in higher prices and the addition of four other South Florida locations, taking away from the joint’s former one-of-a-kind appeal. Fill up on the foot-long “Monster” (ham, cheese, roast beef, and turkey piled high), “Hot Meatballs Marinara,” or an assortment of salads. | Average main: $9 | 233 Commercial Blvd. | 954/776–7893 | www.laspadashoagies.com.
Sea Watch.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Since 1974 this nautical-themed restaurant, with a prime beach location, has catered to large crowds for lunch and dinner. Thankfully, this kitsch slice of Old Florida got a makeover in 2013, not quite bringing the restaurant to modern times . let’s settle on 1997 and call it a day. Among appetizers are oysters Rockefeller, gulf shrimp, clams casino, and Bahamian conch fritters. Main courses might include oat-crusted yellowtail snapper, charbroiled swordfish, grilled orange roughy, or paella. Early-bird dinners (May through December, 5–6 pm nightly) are $21.95 and include an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. | Average main: $25 | 6002 N. Ocean Blvd., Rte. A1A | 954/781–2200 | www.seawatchontheocean.com.
Where to Stay
Best Florida Resort.
$ | HOTEL | Although the name might seem a bit cocky, this two-story property a block or two from the beach is typical, no-frills Lauderdale-by-the-Sea fare. Subtropical palm-fringed landscaping, creative decor, and whimsical touches like a supply-room sign warning of a make-believe attack alligator are part of the charm. Rooms showcase a fresh take on old-school rattan and bamboo furnishings. Hospitable owners Bozena and Tomasz Jurczak make sure there’s no spring-break-style revelry, so you can be assured of a tranquil experience. There’s free Wi-Fi in all rooms, plus a barbecue grill for guest use. Pros: attentive management; low-key vibe; free Wi-Fi. Cons: not on the beach; despite the name, not a resort. | Rooms from: $105 | 4628 N. Ocean Dr. | 866/332–3590 | www.bestfloridaresortlauderdale.com | 12 rooms | No meals.
Blue Seas Courtyard.
$ | B&B/INN | Husband-and-wife team Cristie and Marc Furth run this quaint Mexican-themed motel across the street from Lauderdale-by-the-Sea’s family-friendly beaches. Lattice fences, gurgling fountains, and gardens of cacti and impatiens provide privacy around the brick patio and heated pool. A palm-fringed Mexican-hacienda look predominates, with guest quarters boasting hand-painted and stenciled furnishings, and terra-cotta tiles. Pros: south-of-the-border vibe; friendly owners; vintage stoves from 1972; memory-foam mattress toppers. Cons: rooms lack ocean views; old bathtubs in some rooms. | Rooms from: $168 | 4525 El Mar Dr. | 954/772–3336 | www.blueseascourtyard.com | 12 rooms | Breakfast.
High Noon Beach Resort.
$$ | HOTEL | Family-run since 1961, this hotel sits on 300 feet of beautiful beach, with plenty of cozy spots and an old-school homey ambience that keeps repeat visitors coming back for more. Accommodations, poolside or oceanfront, range from standard rooms to efficiencies with kitchens to full apartments with separate bedrooms and one or two baths. Nine rooms have private balconies. There’s also a two-bedroom beach house. Wicker furnishings prevail in all the rooms and apartments. Pros: smack on the beach; friendly vibe; great staff. Cons: early booking required; not on happening part of beach. | Rooms from: $201 | 4424 El Mar Dr. | 954/776–1121, 800/382–1265 | www.highnoonresort.com | 40 rooms | Breakfast.
Sea Lord Hotel & Suites.
$ | HOTEL | This ocean-side hotel received major upgrades back in 2010, including a new pool deck, restaurant, lobby, sundeck, entranceway, small fitness center, and room enhancements, making it one of the nicest in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea. More than half of the 47 units have great ocean views, balconies, and full kitchens. Enjoy a complimentary continental breakfast by the pool overlooking the ocean. Rooms and common areas have free Wi-Fi. Amicable staff create a warm hospitable environment. Pros: terrific beach location; void of the moldy smell in nearby older hotels. Cons: shaky elevators; limited parking. | Rooms from: $170 | 4140 El Mar Dr. | 954/776–1505, 800/344–4451 | www.sealordhotel.com | 47 rooms | Breakfast.
FAMILY | Tropic Seas Resort Motel.
$$ | HOTEL | This two-story property has an unbeatable location—directly on the beach, flanking 150 feet of pristine sands and sparkling blues—and is a favorite of annual European vacationers looking for longer stays. Built in the 1950s and last renovated back in 2007, the tiled units are clean and comfortable, with tropical rattan furniture and ceiling fans. Coffee and Danish pastry are served daily. Accommodation is generally more spacious here than at nearby competitors. Pros: family-owned friendliness; great lawn furniture. Cons: must reserve far ahead; dated bathrooms. | Rooms from: $220 | 4616 El Mar Dr. | 954/491–3733 reservations, 954/772–2555 hotel direct line | www.tropicseasresort.com | 16 rooms | Breakfast.
Sports and the Outdoors
Anglin’s Fishing Pier.
This longtime favorite for 24-hour fishing has a fresh, renovated appearance after shaking off repeated storm damage that closed the pier at intervals during the past decade. | 2 Commercial Blvd. | 954/491–9403 | www.boatlessfishing.com/anglins.htm.
Pompano Beach
Pompano Beach is 3 miles north of Lauderdale-by-the-Sea.
As Route A1A enters this town directly north of Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, the high-rise scene resumes. Sportfishing is big in Pompano Beach, as its name implies, but there’s more to beachside attractions than the popular Fisherman’s Wharf. Behind a low coral-rock wall, Alsdorf Park (also called the 14th Street boat ramp) extends north and south of the wharf along the road and beach.
Getting Here and Around
From Interstate 95, Pompano Beach exits include Sample Road, Copans Road, or Atlantic Boulevard.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Greater Pompano Beach Chamber of Commerce. | 2200 E Atlantic Blvd. | 954/941–2940 | www.pompanobeachchamber.com.
Exploring
There aren’t many “sights” to see in Pompano Beach, but to the north, Route A1A traverses the so-called Hillsboro Mile (actually more than 2 miles), a millionaire’s row of some of Broward’s most beautiful and expensive homes. The road runs along a narrow strip of land between the Intracoastal Waterway and the ocean, with bougainvillea and oleander edging the way and yachts docked along both banks. Traffic often moves at a snail’s pace, especially in winter, as vacationers (and sometimes even envious locals) gawk.
Hillsboro Lighthouse.
About 2 miles north of Pompano Beach you are afforded a beautiful view across Hillsboro Inlet to this lighthouse, often called the brightest lighthouse in the Southeast and used by mariners as a landmark for decades. When at sea you can see its light from almost halfway to the Bahamas. Although the octagonal-pyramid, iron-skeletal tower lighthouse is on private property inaccessible to the public, it’s well worth a peek, even from afar. The Hillsboro Lighthouse Preservation Society offers tours about eight Saturdays a year (usually on holiday weekends); call for schedule and tips on viewing vantage points. | Hillsboro Inlet off Hwy. A1A | 954/942–2102 | www.hillsborolighthouse.org.
Where to Eat
Cafe Maxx.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | New-wave epicurean dining had its South Florida start here circa 1984, but Darrel and Oliver’s Cafe Maxx remains fresh. The menu changes nightly showcasing tropical appeal with dishes that may include jerk-spiced sea scallops, jumbo stone crab claws with honey-lime mustard sauce, or black-bean-and-banana-pepper chili with Florida avocado. Appetizers often include caviar pie and crispy sweetbreads. Desserts such as banana spring rolls and the vanilla bean crème brûlée stay the tropical course with their secondary ingredients. Select from some 300 wines by the bottle, and many by the glass. | Average main: $35 | 2601 E. Atlantic Blvd. | 954/782–0606 | www.cafemaxx.com | No lunch.
Cap’s Place Island Restaurant.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | On an island once a bootlegger’s haunt, Lighthouse Point’s ramshackle seafood spot reached by launch has served the famous as well as the infamous, including the likes of Winston Churchill, FDR, JFK, and Al Capone. Cap was Captain Theodore Knight, born in 1871, who, with partner-in-crime Al Hasis, floated a derelict barge to the area in the 1920s. Broward’s oldest restaurant, built on the barge, is run by Hasis’s descendants. Sesame-crusted mahimahi is served with soy-ginger sauce, flaky rolls are baked fresh, and tangy lime pie is a great finale. Clams and oysters are shucked to order and the hearts of palm salad is made from local Okeechobee harvest. | Average main: $26 | Cap’s Dock, 2765 N.E. 28th Ct. | 954/941–0418 | www.capsplace.com | Closed Mon. No lunch.
Where to Stay
FAMILY | Cottages by the Ocean.
$$ | RENTAL | For families wanting longer-term stays and favoring home-style comforts over resort-style bling, Cottages by the Ocean is one of five beach-area properties run by Beach Vacation Rentals offering furnished, well-equipped condo-style lodging. Accommodations take shape as refurbished cottages or condos, either studios, one-bedrooms (with one bath) or two-bedrooms (with two baths); all have full kitchens, king or queen beds plus sleeper sofas, a self-serve coin laundry, and BBQ areas. Units are available for daily, weekly, and monthly rental. The company’s other four properties are Bahama Beach Club, Pineapple Place, Pelican Place, and Sunny Place, most of which have swimming pools, though Cottages by the Ocean does not. Pros: shops within walking distance, complimentary Wi-Fi; no resort fees (though there are cleaning fees). Cons: not directly on beach; no pool; old TVs; sometimes three-night minimum stay. | Rooms from: $214 | 3309 S.E. 3rd St. | 954/283–1111 | www.4rentbythebeach.com | 6 cottages | No meals.
FAMILY | Fort Lauderdale Marriott Pompano Beach Resort & Spa.
$$$ | RESORT | Opened in mid-2013, this high-end Marriott property breathes new life into Pompano Beach, with modern, beach-inspired, all-balcony guest rooms; two swimming pools; a rum bar; a spa; and a sprawling beach area. The Marriott comprises two buildings—one constructed from the ground up, the other a head-to-toe renovation of a former condominium building. Guest rooms are blanketed in soothing colors like beiges, browns, and light blues, adorned by modern art constructed from driftwood and photographs of the nearby Lightouse Point. Downstairs, the signature restaurant McCoys serves local seafood delights, both indoors and on an expansive alfresco ocean terrace. The loungers lining the swimming pools feature retractable flags, which, are placed up when poolside service is desired. The on-site SiSpa is a fabulous, full service spa with four treatment rooms. The kid-friendly property also features a full recreation program for tots, a sand pit for kids, and great snorkeling opportunities right off the beach. Pros: oceanfront fitness center; all rooms have balconies; beach volleyball; great beach. Cons: this part of the beach can be windy; neighbored by older condos. | Rooms from: $349 | 1200 N. Ocean Blvd. | www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/fllpm-fort-lauderdale-marriott-pompano-beach-resort-and-spa/ | 219 rooms | No meals.
Shopping
Sugar Chest Antique Mall.
At once kitsch and interesting, this indoor arcade houses the collectibles and antiques of more than 200 vendors. Bargain hunters and antique junkies browse through the clutter in search for finds in art, jewelry, dishware, chandeliers, porcelain, pottery, and random artifacts. | 960 N. Federal Hwy. | 954/942–8601 | www.thesugarchestantiquemall.com.
Sports and the Outdoors
Fishing
FAMILY | Pompano Pier.
The 24-hour pier extends more than 1,000 feet into the Atlantic and was partially rebuilt after Hurricane Sandy in 2012. The pier tackle shop sells beer and snacks. There’s no longer a charge to enter the pier or to fish. Anglers brag about catching barracuda, jack, and snapper here in the same sitting, along with bluefish, cobia, and, yes, even pompano. | 222 N. Pompano Beach Blvd. | 954/786–4073.
FAMILY | Fish City Pride.
Fish City Pride is one of the many available boats at Hillsboro Inlet offering drift fishing trips and regular fishing charters. Fish City offers morning, afternoon, and evening drift-fishing trips that start at $40 and include fishing gear and bait. | Hillsboro Inlet Fishing Center, 2705 N. Riverside Dr. | 954/781–1211 | www.fishcitypride.com.
Scuba Diving
SS CopenhagenState Underwater Archaeological Preserve.
The wreck of the SS Copenhagen lies in 15- to 30-foot depths just outside the second reef on the Pompano Ledge, 3.6 miles south of Hillsboro Inlet. The 325-foot-long steamer’s final voyage, from Philadelphia bound for Havana, began May 20, 1900, ending six days later when the captain—attempting to avoid gulf currents—crashed onto a reef off what’s now Pompano Beach. In 2000, the missing bow section was identified a half mile to the south. The wreck, a haven for colorful fish and corals and a magnet for skin and scuba divers, became Florida’s fifth Underwater Archaeological Preserve in 1994, listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2001. Outfitters such as Dixie Divers in Deerfield Beach offer regular trips to the wreck site.
Deerfield Beach
Deerfield Beach is 2 miles north of Pompano Beach.
As posh Hillsboro Mile comes to an end, Route A1A spills out onto Deerfield Beach, Broward’s northernmost oceanside community.
Getting Here and Around
From Interstate 95, take the Hillsboro Boulevard exit east. From A1A, continue north past Pompano Beach and Hillsboro Beach.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Greater Deerfield Beach Chamber of Commerce. | 1601 E. Hillsboro Blvd. | 954/427–1050 | www.deerfieldchamber.com.
Exploring
Deerfield Island Park.
Reached only by boat, this officially designated Urban Wilderness Area showcases coastal hammock island and contains a mangrove swamp that provides a critical habitat for manatees, gopher tortoises, gray foxes, raccoons, and armadillos. County-operated boat shuttles run from the dock at Sullivan Park 10–3 on weekends (on the hour only). Shuttles return to the mainland on the half hour, with the last one departing the island at 4:30 pm. Amenities include two nature trails, one of which is a boardwalk, while the other leads to an observation platform. | 1720 Deerfield Island Park | 954/357–5100 (phone inquiries taken at Quiet Waters Park) | www.broward.org/parks/DeerfieldIslandPark | Free.
FAMILY | Quiet Waters Park.
Its name belies what’s in store for kids here. Splash Adventure is a high-tech water-play system with slides and tunnels, among other activities. There’s also cable water-skiing and boat rental on this county park’s lake, and a skate park. Note that this space functions mostly as a public park for locals rather than as a tourist attraction and is located near a highway. | 401 S. Powerline Rd. | 954/357–5100 | www.broward.org/parks/quietwaterspark | Park $1.50 weekends, free weekdays | Nov.–Feb., daily 8–6; Mar.–Oct., daily 8–7:30.
Where to Eat
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Charm City Burger Company.
$ | DINER | This fun and funky grease pit in Deerfield Beach is one of Broward County’s favorite dives on the supercheap. Serving up oversize beef burgers, chicken burgers, and veggie burgers piled high with unapologetically fattening toppings like candied bacon strips, haystack onion straws, hash browns, and blue cheese spread, this is the true diet Antichrist. Grab a side of hand-cut sweet potato fries with your burger, wash it all down with a thick key lime milk shake, and then seal the food coma deal with a dessert of fried “Oreos fritters” or “The Carnie,” fried Twinkies with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, and powdered sugar. | Average main: $7 | 1136 E. Hillsboro Blvd. | 954/531–0300 | www.charmcityburgers.com.
FAMILY | Olympia Flame Diner.
$ | DINER | The family-owned Flame burned white-hot back in 2009 when finance guru Suze Orman did a star turn as a waitress here for an Oprah TV segment. Orman has a condo nearby, and her fitness trainer—who dines here regularly—suggested the blue-awning diner as an illuminated best bet for a hot, home-style meal accompanied by megawatt chatter. Greek specialties from spinach pie to baklava dominate the menu, but you can order seafood, deli-style sandwiches, and burgers along with beer or wine. And no, Oprah and Orman megaexposure hasn’t changed the homey mood here at all. | Average main: $10 | 80 S. Federal Hwy. | 954/480–8402 | www.olympiaflamediner.com.
The Whale’s Rib Raw Bar.
$$ | SEAFOOD | For a casual, almost funky, nautical experience near the beach, look no further than this raw bar featured on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. If you want to blend in, order a fish special with whale fries—thinly sliced potatoes that look like hot potato chips. People come from near and far for the famous whale fries. Those with smaller appetites can choose from salads and fish sandwiches, or raw-bar favorites like Ipswich clams. | Average main: $17 | 2031 N.E. 2nd St. | 954/421–8880 | www.whalesrib.com.
Where to Stay
Carriage House Resort Motel.
$ | HOTEL | This tidy no-frills motel, accredited as an SSL (Superior Small Lodging), is less than a block from the ocean and consists of a two-story, colonial-style building with a second-story sundeck. Steady improvements have been made to the quiet facility, and kitchenettes are equipped with quality utensils. Rooms are cheerful and color-splashed, with complimentary Wi-Fi, walk-in closets, and safes. Pros: friendly staff; bargain rates. Cons: nothing fancy; tacky bedspreads. | Rooms from: $140 | 250 S.E. 20 Ave. | 954/427–7670 | www.carriagehouseresort.com | 6 rooms, 14 efficiencies, 10 apartments | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Fishing
Deerfield Pier.
This picturesque 976-foot pier teems with fishermen and tourists. Admission is $4 to fish, $1 to sightsee. The pier is open 24 hours Thursday to Sunday; otherwise, it’s open from 6 am to midnight. Common catches include king mackerel, snapper, blue fish, and barracuda. | 200 N.E. 21st Ave. | 954/480–4407 | www.deerfield-beach.com.
Scuba Diving
FAMILY | Dixie Divers.
Among the area’s most popular dive operators, this outfit offers daily dive and snorkel trips aboard the 48-foot Lady-Go-Diver. Certified divers and snorkelers can explore the marine life of nearby reefs and shipwrecks, including the SS Copenhagen. The cost is $40 for the snorkeling trip, but departure times change daily, so call ahead. Dixie Divers also offers scuba courses of all levels. | 455 S. Federal Hwy. (U.S.-1) | 800/630–3441 | www.dixiediver.com.