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Exploring | Beaches | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife | Shopping | Sports and the Outdoors
15 miles south of West Palm Beach.
A onetime artists’ retreat with a small settlement of Japanese farmers, Delray has grown into a sophisticated beach town. Delray’s current popularity is caused in large part by the fact that it has the feel of an organic city rather than a planned development or subdivision—and it’s completely walkable. Atlantic Avenue, which fell from a tony downtown to a dilapidated main drag, has been reinvented into a mile-plus-long stretch of palm-dotted sidewalks lined with stores, art galleries, and restaurants. Running east–west and ending at the beach, it’s a happening place for a stroll, day or night. Another active pedestrian area, the Pineapple Grove Arts District, begins at Atlantic and stretches northward on Northeast 2nd Avenue about half a mile, and yet another active pedestrian way begins at the eastern edge of Atlantic Avenue and runs along the big, broad swimming beach that extends north to George Bush Boulevard and south to Casuarina Road. Renovations and buildings in progress in adjoining areas both south and north of the Avenue will offer more shops and restaurants, as well as condos.
Getting Here and Around
To reach Delray Beach from Boynton Beach, drive 2 miles south on I–95, U.S. 1, or Route A1A.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Contacts
Palm Beach County Convention and Visitors Bureau. | 1555 Palm Beach Lakes Blvd., Suite 800 | West Palm Beach | 561/233–3000 | www.palmbeachfl.com.
Exploring
Cason Cottage Museum.
This restored home that dates from about 1924 is a small museum run by the Delray Beach Historical Society. It’s furnished as though the original inhabitants still lived there and filled with period relics, including a pump organ donated by descendants of a Delray Beach pioneer family. There’s a garden of native plants out front and two small bungalow-style buildings on the property that have displays on the town’s architectural evolution and history. The cottage is a block north of Atlantic Avenue and right across from the Delray Beach Center for the Arts at Old School Square. | 5 N.E. 1st St. | 561/274–9578 | www.delraybeachhistory.org | $4 | Nov.–Apr., Thurs.–Sat. 11–3; May–Oct. by appointment only.
Colony Hotel.
The chief landmark along Atlantic Avenue since 1926 is this sunny Mediterranean revival–style building, which is a member of the National Trust’s Historic Hotels of America. Walk through the lobby to the parking lot where original garages still stand—relics of the days when hotel guests would arrive via chauffeured cars and stay there the whole season. | 525 E. Atlantic Ave. | 561/276–4123 | www.thecolonyhotel.com.
FAMILY | Delray Beach Center for the Arts at Old School Square.
Instrumental in the revitalization of Delray Beach circa 1995, this cluster of galleries and event spaces were established in restored school buildings dating from 1913 and 1925. The Cornell Museum of Art & American Culture offers ever-changing exhibits on fine arts, crafts, and pop culture, plus a hands-on children’s gallery. From November to April, the 323-seat Crest Theatre showcases national-touring Broadway musicals, cabaret concerts, dance performances, and lectures. The area is being renovated at this writing. | 51 N. Swinton Ave. | 561/243–7922 | www.oldschool.org | $10 for museum | Museum Tues.–Sat. 10:30–4:30, Sun. 1–4:30.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens.
The boonies west of Delray Beach seems an odd place to encounter one of the region’s most important cultural centers, but this is exactly where you can find a 200-acre cultural and recreational facility heralding the Yamato Colony of Japanese farmers that settled here in the early 20th century. A permanent exhibit details their history, and all together the museum’s collection has more than 7,000 artifacts and works of art on rotating display. Traditional tea ceremonies are conducted monthly from October to June, along with educational classes on topics like calligraphy and sushi-making (these require advance registration and come with a fee). The six main gardens are inspired by famous historic periods in Japanese garden design and have South Florida accents (think tropical bonsai), and the on-site Cornell Café serves light Asian fare at affordable prices and was recognized by the Food Network as being one of the country’s best museum eateries. | 4000 Morikami Park Rd. | 561/495–0233 | www.morikami.org | $15 | Tues.–Sun. 10–5.
The Morikami: Essence of Japan in Florida
A magical 200-acre garden where the Far East meets the South lies just beyond Palm Beach’s allure of sun, sea, and glittering resorts. It’s called the Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens and is a testament to one man’s perseverance. One of the largest Japanese gardens outside of Japan, it’s also a soothing destination for reflection, with a pine forest, trails, and lakes.
In 1904, Jo Sakai, a New York University graduate, returned to his homeland of Miyazu, Japan, to recruit hands for farming what is now northern Boca Raton. With help from Henry Flagler’s East Coast Railroad subsidiary, they colonized as Yamato, an ancient name for Japan. When crops fell short, everyone left except for George Sukeji Morikami, who carried on cultivating local crops, eventually donating his land to memorialize the Yamato Colony in the mid-1970s to Palm Beach County. His dream took on a new dimension with the 1977 opening of the Morikami complex, a living monument bridging cultural understanding between Morikami’s two homelands.
The original Yamato-kan building chronicles the Yamato Colony, and a 32,000-square-foot main museum that opened in 1993 has rotating exhibits with 7,000 art objects and artifacts from the permanent collection, including 200 examples of textiles and a 500-piece collection of tea-ceremony items. No visit is complete without exploring the expansive Japanese gardens that have strolling paths, a tropical bonsai collection, and lakes teeming with koi. Enjoy a demonstration of sado, the Japanese tea ceremony, in the Seishin-an teahouse (check website for schedule), learn about Japanese history in the 5,000-book library, or register in advance for classes like calligraphy, bonsai, art, and intro to sushi making. The gift shop has some great finds for the whole family, and the Cornell Café has excellent pan-Asian fare and a relaxing terrace that overlooks the gardens.
Beaches
Atlantic Dunes Park.
Quiet and green, this has the opposite vibe of the main beach a few miles up. What it also has are lush pine trees under which are picnic tables, nature trails through the dunes, and a boardwalk that takes you to the shore—in addition to restrooms and showers conveniently located on the ocean side of A1A (rather than across the street in the parking lot). Chair rentals are available, and like with the municipal beach, all lifeguards are certified EMTs. A surf wheelchair is on hand for first-come, first-serve use with a limit of two hours per person. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (fee); toilets; showers. Best for: solitude; swimming; walking. | 1605 S. Ocean Blvd., north of Linton Ave. | www.mydelraybeach.com | $1.50 per hr parking | Daily 8–sunset.
Fodor’s Choice | Delray Municipal Beach.
If you’re looking for a place to see and be seen, head for this wide expanse of sand, the heart of which is where Atlantic Avenue meets A1A, close to restaurants, bars, and quick-serve eateries. Singles, families, and water sports enthusiasts alike love it here. Lounge chairs and umbrellas can be rented every day, and lifeguards man stations half a mile out in each direction. The most popular section of beach is south of Atlantic Ave. on A1A, where the street parking is found. There are also two metered lots with restrooms across from A1A at Sandoway Park and Anchor Park (bring quarters if parking here!). On the beach by Anchor Park, north of Casuarina Rd., are six volleyball nets and a kiosk that offers Hobie Wave rentals, surfing lessons, and snorkeling excursions to the 1903 SS Inchulva shipwreck half a mile offshore. The beach itself is open 24 hours, if you’re at a nearby hotel and fancy a moonlight stroll. Amenities: water sports; food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); toilets; showers. Best for: windsurfing; partiers; swimming. | Rte. A1A and E. Atlantic Ave. | $1.50 per 1 hr parking | Daily 24 hrs.
Where to Eat
Blue Anchor.
$$ | BRITISH | Yes, this pub was actually shipped from England, where it had stood for 150 years in London’s historic Chancery Lane. There it was a watering hole for famed Englishmen, including Winston Churchill; here you may hear stories of lingering ghosts told over some suds. Chow down on a ploughman’s lunch (a chunk of Stilton cheese, a piece of bread, English pork pie, and pickled onions), fish-and-chips, and bangers and mash (sausages with mashed potatoes). This is a pub’s pub—nothing fancy, very hearty. English beers and ales are on tap and by the bottle. It’s also a late-night place and has live music on weekends. | Average main: $18 | 804 E. Atlantic Ave. | 561/272–7272 | www.theblueanchor.com.
Fodor’s Choice | City Oyster & Sushi Bar.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | This trendy restaurant mingles the personalities and flavors of a New England oyster bar, a modern sushi eatery, an eclectic seafood grill, and an award-winning dessert bakery to create a can’t-miss foodie haven in the heart of Delray’s bustling Atlantic Avenue. Dishes like the oyster bisque, New Orleans–style shrimp and crab gumbo, tuna crudo, and lobster fried rice are simply sublime. The restaurant’s colossal bakery adds an unexpected element of carb bliss with a full roster of house-made breads and desserts, including seasonal pies and an insanely divine pecan pie in a glass. Pastas, too, are made in-house. On the downside, the place can be so busy and noisy that you can’t hear your dining companions, especially in high season. | Average main: $26 | 213 E. Atlantic Ave. | 561/272–0220 | www.cityoysterdelray.com.
D’Angelo Trattoria.
$$$ | ITALIAN | One of South Florida’s most renowned Italian chefs, Angelo Elia, continues to expand his empire with this lively trattoria off Atlantic Avenue in Delray Beach. In a refurbished and reinvented beach house, the restaurant delivers hefty portions of original Italian favorites—such as gnocchi quattro formaggi (four cheeses) and seafood risotto—as well as American-Italian delights, like jumbo-shrimp parmigiana over spicy linguini. The wood oven also commands a lot of attention for its excellent pizzas, from the more traditional margherita to the more avant-garde, like the Integrale made with whole-wheat flour and topped with mozzarella, brie, zucchini, and smoked salmon. Come hungry and prepare yourself for a major food hangover that’s worth every bite. | Average main: $28 | 9 S.E. 7th Ave. | 561/330–1237 | www.dangelotrattoria.com | No lunch.
50 Ocean.
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Upstairs from the legendary Boston’s on the Beach, you’ll find its fancier annex, 50 Ocean. In contrast to the no-frills sports bar on the ground floor, 50 Ocean is a more refined restaurant featuring dishes like four pepper-crusted tuna with spiced butternut puree and roasted root vegetables sourced locally. The views from above are spectacular, and the setting is casually elegant, with an outdoor veranda and notable quartz bar. If it feels too fancy upstairs, just head back downstairs for some decent bar fare that includes New England clam chowder, several lobster dishes, and fresh fish. | Average main: $34 | 40 S. Ocean Blvd., Rte. A1A | 561/278–3364 | www.bostonsonthebeach.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Max’s Harvest.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | A few blocks off Atlantic Avenue in the artsy Pineapple Grove neighborhood, a tree-shaded, fenced-in courtyard welcomes foodies eager to dig into its “farm-to-fork” offerings. The menu encourages people to experiment with “to share,” “start small,” and “think big” plates. An ideal sampling: organic deviled eggs with chives and truffle sea salt; tequila-cured salmon; ricotta gnocchi, boiled then sautéed with porcini mushrooms and truffle tremor (goat cheese with truffles); and a pork chop over mustard spaetzle. Sunday brunch is wildly popular and includes an unlimited interactive Bloody Mary bar and champagne cocktails. | Average main: $27 | 169 N.E. 2nd Ave. | 561/381–9970 | www.maxsharvest.com | No lunch Mon.–Sat.
Fodor’s Choice | The Office.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Scenesters line the massive indoor-outdoor bar from noon ‘til the wee hours at this cooler-than-thou retro library restaurant, but it’s worth your time to stop here for the best burger in town. There’s a whole selection, but the Prime CEO steals the show: Maytag bleu cheese and Gruyere with tomato-onion confit, arugula, and bacon. It’s so juicy, you’ll quickly forget the mess you’re making. Other upscale renditions of comforting classics like nachos (a delicate puff of whipped crab per chip served with jicama slaw), fried green tomatoes (panko-and-cornmeal crusted with crisped bits of Serrano ham), and “naughty” alcoholic shakes are worth every indulgent calorie. | Average main: $24 | 201 E. Atlantic Ave. | 561/276–3600 | www.theofficedelray.com.
Fodor’s Choice | 32 East.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Although restaurants come and go every year on Atlantic Avenue, 32 East remains one of the best—if not the best—in Delray Beach. An ever-changing daily menu defines modern American cuisine. Depending on what is fresh and plentiful, you might indulge in oak-fired organic dates and pears wrapped in bacon or perfectly prepared cumin-chile spiced cobia over black bean-tomato salad. Medium-tone wood accents and dim lighting make this brasserie seem cozy. There’s a packed bar in front, an open kitchen in back, and patio seating on the sidewalk. TIP If you splurge on one dinner in Delray, make it 32 East. | Average main: $36 | 32 E. Atlantic Ave. | 561/276–7868 | www.32east.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Where to Stay
Colony Hotel & Cabaña Club.
$$ | HOTEL | Not to be confused with the luxurious Colony in Palm Beach, this charming hotel in the heart of downtown Delray dates back to 1926; and although it’s landlocked, it does have a cabana club 2 miles away for hotel guests only. The hotel is a member of the National Trust’s Historic Hotels of America and maintains an air of the 1920s with its Mediterranean-revival architecture and retro Old Florida furnishings. The hotel’s Cabaña Club, just under 2 miles away by shuttle, oversees a private stretch of beach and heated saltwater pool. A convivial bar and live music on weekend nights make the lobby area a great place to wind down. In fact, yoga classes are held there daily as well. Fine shops selling leather goods, body products, and stationery fill the lower-level storefronts. Pros: pet-friendly; full breakfast buffet included with rooms; free use of cabanas, umbrellas, and hammocks. Cons: no pool at main hotel building; must walk to public beach for water sport rentals. | Rooms from: $219 | 525 E. Atlantic Ave. | 561/276–4123, 800/552–2363 | www.thecolonyhotel.com | 48 rooms, 22 suites | Breakfast.
Crane’s Beach House Boutique Hotel & Luxury Villas.
$$$ | HOTEL | A tropical oasis, this boutique hotel last renovated in 2014 is a hidden jungle of lush exotic and tropical plants, only a block from the beach. Each room is individually decorated in tropical prints, with rattan and wicker or sleek modern furnishings. New luxe villas opened in late 2014 and have Smart TVs, private patios or balconies, and dedicated Wi-Fi access. Both suites and rooms have full kitchens (kitchenettes are in the studios). Two pools, including a waterfall pool, along with thatched Tiki Bar, plus hammocks under the palms, promise the perfect South Florida experience. Live music at the Tiki Bar draws locals as well as hotel guests. House-made sangrias and a list of frozen concoctions are the drinks du jour. Though no restaurants are on-site, there are many—along with cute shops—within the block on Atlantic Avenue. Pros: private location within the city setting; short walk to the beach; free parking; property is smoke-free. Cons: pricey; no restaurants on-site; no fitness or spa facilities. | Rooms from: $329 | 82 Gleason St. | 866/372–7263, 561/278–1700 | www.cranesbeachhouse.com | 28 rooms: 4 villas | No meals.
FAMILY | Delray Beach Marriott.
$$$$ | HOTEL | By far the largest hotel in Delray Beach, the Marriott has two towers on a stellar plot of land at the east end of Atlantic Avenue—it’s the only hotel that directly overlooks the water, yet it is still within walking distance of restaurants, shopping, and nightlife. Rooms and suites are spacious, and many have stunning ocean views. If you want a bit of pampering, there’s also a spa. Furthermore, the property houses eight tricked-out Villas by the Sea, catering to its most well heeled guests. The main resort pool is surrounded by a comfortable deck, and there’s a second pool in a quiet area that’s just for adults. Pros: fantastic ocean views; pampering spa; two pools. Cons: chain-hotel feel; charge for parking; must rent beach chairs. | Rooms from: $499 | 10 N. Ocean Blvd. | 561/274–3200 | www.delraybeachmarriott.com | 181 rooms, 88 suites | No meals.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | The Seagate Hotel & Spa.
$$$$ | RESORT | Those who crave 21st-century luxury in its full glory (ultraswank tilework and fixtures, marble vanities, seamless shower doors) will love this LEED-certified hotel that offers a subtle Zen coastal motif throughout. Although the hotel celebrated its 100th birthday in 2011, everything, including its private off-site beach club, was built afresh in 2009. A saltwater pool, one of the first in the area, was grandfathered in during the remodeling and is a highlight of the beach club. Water sport rentals are available year-round, and the restaurant is perfect for a leisurely lunch. Back at the hotel, a quiet infinity pool can be found adjacent to the spa, and it’s hard not to be smitten with the aquariums peppering the common spaces; four in total, with the centerpiece being the lobby’s 2,500-gallon tank, they are home to a wide range of creatures, from beautiful lionfish to slithering moray eels, and the concierges have fact sheets on the inhabitants for you to peruse. Rooms are decorated in relaxing neutrals and have plush bedding and Keurig coffeemakers. Opt for the deluxe category—they are one step above the standard rooms, and all have balconies. There’s a complimentary trolley that takes you to the beach club, and the hotel offers car transport within a 5-mile radius from 8 am to 11 pm. Pros: two swimming pools; fabulous beach club; exceptionally knowledgeable concierge team. Cons: main building not directly on beach; daily resort fee; separate charge for parking. | Rooms from: $489 | 1000 E. Atlantic Ave. | 561/665–4800, 877/577–3242 | www.theseagatehotel.com | 154 rooms | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Sundy House.
$$ | B&B/INN | Just about everything in this bungalow-style B&B is executed to perfection—especially its tropical, verdant grounds, which are actually a nonprofit botanical garden (something anyone can check out during free weekday tours) with a natural, freshwater swimming pool where your feet glide along limestone rocks and mingle with fish. Guest rooms and cottages are luxuriously decorated, and some offer full kitchens and laundry facilities. Situated a few blocks south of Atlantic Avenue, the inn’s only real downside is a long walk to the beach (although the complimentary shuttle lessens the inconvenience). Dine at the exceptional restaurant under an expansive indoor canopy or on the patios set among the koi ponds. Pros: charming eclectic decor; each room is unique; renowned restaurant with popular indoor-outdoor bar and free breakfast; in quiet area off Atlantic Avenue. Cons: need to walk through garden to reach rooms (i.e., no covered walkways); beach shuttle requires roughly half-hour advance notice; no private beach facilities. | Rooms from: $209 | 106 Swinton Ave. | 561/272–5678, 877/434–9601 | www.sundyhouse.com | 11 rooms | Breakfast.
Wright by the Sea.
$$ | HOTEL | Here’s a 1950s throwback to beachfront hotels in Florida—down to the Venetian blinds and tropical-beachy decor in the rooms, which were last remodeled in fall 2014. The family who built the hotel still owns it, and the longtime staff are friendly, giving it serious dose of hometown charm. They remember their returning guests, many who book years in advance. A broad mix of room sizes—from studios suitable for singles to a 1,000 square-feet suite-apartment—accommodate everyone, including large families, so it’s a perfect spot for a reunion. Each of the 29 rooms in the two-story building has an ocean view, and they overlook the large heated pool and tiki hut central to the open space. It’s the perfect spot to unplug here, too. You’ll find basketball courts, croquet, and shuffleboard, but the TVs aren’t flat- screen or high-def. Though no restaurants are on site, it’s within walking distance to several on the west side of the nearby Intracoastal Waterway, plus there are kitchenettes in every room. Pros: directly on the beach; free laundry; free beach cabanas; free parking. Cons: dated decor in some rooms; no elevators; no restaurant. | Rooms from: $273 | 1901 S. Ocean Blvd. | 561/257–0885 | www.wbtsea.com | 29 rooms | No meals.
Nightlife
Boston’s on the Beach.
You’ll find beer flowing and the ocean breeze blowing at this beach bar and eatery, a local watering hole since 1983. The walls are laden with paraphernalia from the Boston Bruins, New England Patriots, and Boston Red Sox, including a shrine to Ted Williams. Boston’s can get loud and rowdy (or lively, depending on your taste) later at night. Groove to reggae on Monday, live blues music on Tuesday, and other live music from rock to country on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. | 40 S. Ocean Blvd. | 561/278–3364 | www.bostonsonthebeach.com.
Dada.
Bands play in the living room of this historic house, though much of the action is outdoors on the lawn in fair weather, where huge trees and lanterns make it a fun stop for drinks or a group night out. It’s a place where those who don’t drink will also feel comfortable, however, and excellent gourmet nibbles are a huge bonus (a full dinner menu is available, too). A bohemian, younger crowd gathers later into the night. | 52 N. Swinton Ave. | 561/330–3232 | www.sub-culture.org/dada.
Jellies Bar at the Atlantic Grille.
Within the Seagate Hotel, the fun and fabulous bar at the Atlantic Grille is known locally as Jellies Bar. The over-30 set consistently floats over to this stunning bar to shimmy to live music Tuesdays to Saturdays; the namesake jellyfish tank never fails to entertain as well. | The Seagate Hotel & Spa, 1000 E. Atlantic Ave. | 561/665–4900 | www.theatlanticgrille.com.
Shopping
Atlantic Avenue and Pineapple Grove, both charming neighborhoods for shoppers, have maintained Delray Beach’s small-town integrity. Atlantic Avenue is the main street, with art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, and bars lining it from just west of Swinton Avenue all the way east to the ocean. The now established Pineapple Grove Arts District is centered on the half-mile strip of Northeast 2nd Avenue that goes north from Atlantic; these areas are broadening as the downtown area expands south and east.
Furst.
This studio-shop gives you the chance to watch designer Flavie Furst or her pupils at work—and then purchase their fine, hand-crafted gold, gold filled, and silver jewelry. | 123 N.E. 2nd Ave. | 561/272–6422 | www.flaviefurst.com | Closed Sun.
Snappy Turtle.
Jack Rogers sandals and Trina Turk dresses mingle with other fun resort fashions and beachy gifts for the home and family at this family-run store. | 1100 E. Atlantic Ave. | 888/762–7798 | www.snappy-turtle.com.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
There’s a bicycle path in Barwick Park, but the most popular place to ride is up and down the special oceanfront bike lane along Route A1A. The city also has an illustrated and annotated map on key downtown sights available through the Palm Beach Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Richwagen’s Bike & Sport.
Rent bikes by the hour, day, or week (they come with locks, baskets, and helmets); Richwagen’s also has copies of city maps on hand. A 7-Speed Cruiser rents for $60 per week, or $30 a day. They also rent bike trailers, child seats and electric carts. The shop is closed both Sunday and Monday. | 298 N.E. 6th Ave. | 561/276–4234 | www.delraybeachbicycles.com.
Tennis
Delray Beach Tennis Center.
Each year this complex hosts simultaneous professional tournaments where current stars like Ivo Karlovic and Marin Cilic along with legends like Andy Roddick, Ivan Lendl and Michael Chang duke it out (www.yellowtennisball.com). Florida’s own Chris Evert hosts the Pro-Celebrity Tennis Classic charity event here (www.chrisevert.org). The rest of the time, you can practice or learn on 14 clay courts and 7 hard courts; private lessons and clinics are available, and it’s open from 7:30 am to 9 pm weekdays and until 6 pm weekends. Since most hotels in the area do not have courts, tennis players visiting Delray Beach often come here to play. | 201 W. Atlantic Ave. | 561/243–7360 | www.delraytennis.com.