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Exploring | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Sports and the Outdoors
40 miles west of West Palm Beach.
Rimming the western edges of Palm Beach and Martin counties, the second-largest freshwater lake completely within the United States is girdled by 120 miles of road, yet remains shielded from sight for almost its entire circumference. Lake Okeechobee—the Seminole’s Big Water and gateway to the great Everglades watershed—measures 730 square miles, roughly 33 miles from north to south, and 30 miles from east to west, with an average natural depth of only 10 feet (flood control brings the figure up to 12 feet and deeper). Six major lock systems and 32 separate water-control structures manage the water. Encircling the lake is a 34-foot-high grassy levee—locals call it “the wall”—and the Lake Okeechobee Scenic Trail, a segment of the Florida National Scenic Trail, which is an easy flat ride for bikers. TIP There’s no shade, so wear a hat, sunscreen, and bug repellent. Be sure to bring lots of bottled water, too, because restaurants and stores are few and far between.
You’re likely to see alligators in the tall grass along the shore, as well as birds, including herons, ibises, and bald eagles, which have made a comeback in the area. The 110-mile trail encircles the lake atop the 34-foot Herbert Hoover Dike. On the lake you’ll spot happy anglers hooked on some of the best bass fishing in North America. There are 40 species of fish in “Lake O,” including largemouth bass, bluegill, catfish, and speckled perch. You can fish from the shore or hire a guide for a half-day or all-day boat trip.
Small towns dot the lakeshore in this predominantly agricultural area. To the southeast is Belle Glade—motto: “her soil is her fortune”—playing a role as the eastern hub of the 700,000-acre Everglades Agricultural Area, the crescent of farmlands south and east of the lake. Southwest lies Clewiston, billing itself as “America’s Sweetest Town” thanks to the presence of “Big Sugar,” more formally known as the United States Sugar Corporation. At the lake’s north end, around Okeechobee, citrus production and cattle ranching are the principal economic engines. Set back from the eastern edge of the lake, Indiantown is the western hub of Martin County, noteworthy for citrus production, cattle ranching, and timbering. The town reached its apex in 1927, when the Seaboard Air Line Railroad briefly established its southern headquarters and a model town here.
Getting Here and Around
The best way to get to the southern end of Lake Okeechobee (towns like Belle Glade and Clewiston) from West Palm Beach is to drive west on Southern Boulevard from I–95 past the cutoff road to Lion Country Safari. From there, the boulevard is designated U.S. 98/441. To get to the northern end—the town of Okeechobee itself and Indiantown en route—take State Road 710 northwest from the West Palm Beach area.
Clewiston is the city due south of Lake Okeechobee, built around the sugar industry. Access to Lake Okeechobee is at the locks here.
Visitor Information
Clewiston Chamber of Commerce. | 109 Central Ave. | Clewiston | 863/983–7979 | www.clewiston.org.
Martin County Convention & Visitors Bureau. | 772/288–5451, 877/585–0085 | www.discovermartin.com.
Exploring
Clewiston Museum.
Detailing city history, the Clewiston Museum tells stories not only of Big Sugar and the Herbert Hoover Dike construction, but also of the World War II British Royal Air Force pilots training at the Clewiston airfield. Artifacts from the Seminole tribe and even fossils found by a local paleontologist are on display, too. Historical eco-tours are held on Friday, 9–4:30 ($20) and include bird-watching, lunch, and a tour through the museum and nearby Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Seminole Indian Museum. | 109 Central Ave. | Clewiston | 863/983–2870 | www.clewistonmuseum.org | $4 | Weekdays 9–4, weekends by appointment.
Where to Eat
Lightsey’s Seafood Restaurant.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | The pick of the lake, this lodge-style restaurant at the Okee-Tantie campground started as a fish place with four tables in a corner. Nowadays, the taxidermy-filled joint welcomes bikers and tourist for fresh catfish (the signature dish) and “cooter” (a variety of freshwater turtle). The restaurant also serves frogs’ legs, alligator tenderloin, and oysters on the half-shell, along with a selection of ocean fish like mahi and snapper. Not feeling like fruits of the Everglades and Lake Okeechobee? There’s steak and other land-spun delights. They’ll cook your catch, too. The restaurant may relocate in late 2015, so keep an eye on its Facebook page. | Average main: $23 | 10435 Rte. 78 W | Okeechobee | 863/763–4276.
Where to Stay
The Clewiston Inn.
$ | HOTEL | A classic antebellum-style hotel in the heart of town, the Clewiston Inn was built in 1938 to impress visiting businessmen and dignitaries. In 2007, the hotel underwent major renovations, and the cypress-paneled lobby, wood-burning fireplace, Colonial Dining Room, and Everglades Lounge with a wraparound Everglades mural are standouts. The 40 standard rooms, 4 suites, and 8 efficiency apartments are furnished with pieces representative of the 1930s and 1940s with some more modern accents thrown in. Rates include a full breakfast cooked to order. There’s a public pool across the street. Pros: full of charm; lovely restaurant; a good value. Cons: rooms are small; steps to climb. | Rooms from: $119 | 108 Royal Palm Ave., at U.S. 27 | Clewiston | 863/983–8151, 800/749–4466 | www.clewistoninn.com | 52 rooms | Breakfast.
Pier II Resort.
$ | HOTEL | This two-story hotel has one of the only swimming pools in the area, and it is on the rim canal that has a five-story observation tower for peeking over Lake Okeechobee’s levee. Out back are a 650-foot fishing pier and The Boathouse, one of the lake area’s best hangouts for shooting pool or watching TV, attracting a mix of locals and out-of-towners. You get a free drink ticket upon arrival. The best rooms are the suites, which are actually efficiency apartments with full kitchens. Pros: swimming pool; nice fishing pier; lovely views from observation tower; pet-friendly. Cons: early morning noise from anglers. | Rooms from: $85 | 2200 S.E. U.S. 441 | Okeechobee | 863/763–8003, 800/874–3744 | 83 rooms, 6 suites | Breakfast.
Seminole Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | This historic Mediterranean-revival inn has lovely Old Florida original touches like cypress ceilings and pine floors. It’s run by Jonnie Wall Flewelling, an Indiantown native whose family has owned the property for decades. Hunters, fishers, and birders are fans of this spot for its location, but it’s got enough Southern charm to attract everyone—and the restaurant serves the finest fried-green tomatoes around. Carpeted rooms are done in country ruffles, and there are rocking chairs on the porch and a sitting area on the second floor. Indiantown memorabilia decorates the lobby, and there’s good local art throughout, including a mural depicting the Seminole tribe’s history. Pros: very charming; swimming pool; historic building; tasty Sunday brunch at its restaurant. Cons: steps to climb; a 20-minute drive to the lake. | Rooms from: $88 | 15885 S.W. Warfield Blvd. | Indiantown | 772/597–3777 | www.seminoleinn.com | 23 rooms | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Fishing
Slim’s Fish Camp.
In addition to operating the bridge to Torry Island (among Florida’s last remaining swing bridges—it’s cranked open by hand), owner Charles Corbin runs Slim’s Fish Camp, which offers guided trips on Lake Okeechobee and supplies for boating, fishing, and air-boating on the lake, but not boat rentals. | 215 Marina Dr. | Belle Glade | 888/629–2277 | www.slimsfishcamp.com.