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Widely thought of as one of the best places in Florida to live, Sarasota County anchors the southern end of Tampa Bay. A string of barrier islands borders it with 35 miles of gulf and bay beaches. Sarasota County has something for everyone, from the athletic to the artistic. Thirteen public beaches, two state parks, 22 municipal parks, plus more than 60 public and private golf courses will help keep the active in motion. Spring training was an original destination attraction that now shares the stage with international rowing, swimming, and sailing events. Add to that a plentiful cultural scene dating to the era of circus magnate John Ringling, who chose this area for the winter home of his circus and his family.
Bradenton
49 miles south of Tampa.
In 1539 Hernando de Soto landed near this Manatee River city, which has some 20 miles of beaches. Bradenton is well situated for access to fishing, both fresh- and saltwater, and it also has its share of golf courses and historic sites dating to the mid-1800s. Orange groves and cattle ranches mix with farmlands between Bradenton’s beaches and Interstate 75.
Getting Here and Around
You can get to Bradenton via Interstate 75, Interstate 275, and U.S. 41/301. West Manatee Avenue gets you out to the beaches. Manatee County Area Transit (MCAT) has buses throughout Bradenton and the nearby towns of Palmetto and Ellenton, as well as connections to Sarasota attractions. Fares for local bus service range from $1.25 to $3 (for an all-day pass); exact change is required. A $30 monthly “M-Card” is available for unlimited rides on all MCAT routes. However, if you want to get around efficiently—and want access to more places—you’re best off renting a car.
Contacts
Manatee County Area Transit. | 941/749–7116 | www.mymanatee.org.
Visitor Information
Contacts
Bradenton Area Convention and Visitors Bureau. This organization has all you need to know about everything Bradenton, Anna Maria Island, Palmetto, and Ellenton have to offer. | 941/729–9177 | www.bradentongulfislands.com.
Exploring
De Soto National Memorial.
One of the first Spanish explorers to land in North America, Hernando de Soto came ashore with his men and 200 horses near what is now Bradenton in 1539; this federal park commemorates De Soto’s expedition and the Native Americans he and his crew encountered. During the height of tourist season, from mid-December to late April, park staff and volunteers dress in period costumes at Camp Uzita, demonstrate the use of 16th-century weapons, and show how European explorers prepared and preserved food for their overland journeys. The season ends with a reenactment of the explorer’s landing. The site also offers a film and short nature trail through the mangroves. | 8300 De Soto Memorial Hwy. | 941/792–0458 | www.nps.gov/deso | Free (donations accepted) | Visitor center daily 9–5, grounds daily dawn–dusk.
Gamble Plantation Historic State Park.
Built in the 1840s, this antebellum mansion five miles northeast of Bradenton was home to Major Robert Gamble and is the headquarters of an extensive sugar plantation. It is the only surviving plantation house in South Florida. The Confederate secretary of state took refuge here when the Confederacy fell to Union forces. Picnic tables are available. Guided tours of the house are available six times a day. | 3708 Patten Ave. | Ellenton | 941/723–4536 | floridastateparks.org/gambleplantation | Free, tours $6 | Daily 8–sunset. Tours Thurs.–Mon. 8–5:40.
Pine Avenue.
Anna Maria Island’s newly restored “Main Street” features numerous upscale mom-and-pop boutiques, including beach-appropriate clothiers, beach-inspired home decor stores, and antique furniture shops. You can also find shops offering items such as quality jewelry and infused olive oil. The Anna Maria City Pier, which overlooks the southern end of Tampa Bay, sits at the end of the street. If you’re here in the morning, check out Anna Maria Donuts, which offers made-to-order custom donuts, some having sriracha sauce among their ingredients. | Pine Ave. | Anna Maria | 941/592–6642 | www.pineavenueinfo.com.
Robinson Preserve.
With miles of trails that wind through wetlands and mangroves to lookout towers and peaceful waterfront spots, this Manatee County park is a must for anyone who likes a quiet walk (or run) and sweeping views of the landscape and the wildlife that inhabit it. There’s also a kayak launch here, which links into a network of trails for small watercraft. Toward the front of the property the historic Valentine House, which was moved from its original site in Palmetto and restored, now serves as a visitor center and offers a few wonders of its own, including reptiles and shells the kids will dig. | 1704 99th St. NW | 941/742–5923 | mymanatee.org.
Off the Beaten Path: Solomon’s Castle.
For a visit to the wild and weird side, particularly fun for children, head to this “castle” about 45 minutes east of Bradenton through orange groves and cattle farms. Artist and Renaissance man Howard Solomon began building the 12,000-square-foot always-in-progress work out of thousands of aluminum offset printing plates. Inside, you’ll find tons of intrigues—everything from a knight assembled with Volkswagen parts to a chair fashioned out of 86 beer cans to an elephant made from seven oil drums. A restaurant serves sit-down lunches in a full-scale model of a Spanish galleon. It closes for the summer (July through September). | 4585 Solomon Rd. | Ona | 863/494–6077 | www.solomonscastle.org | $10 | Oct.–June, Tues.–Sun 11–4.
FAMILY | South Florida Museum and Parker Manatee Aquarium.
Snooty, the oldest manatee in captivity, is the headliner here. Programs about the endangered marine mammals run four times daily. View changing exhibits such as digital images of water and other natural resources in the East Gallery; glass cases and roll-out drawers on the second floor allow you to look at exhibits normally out of public view. At the Bishop Planetarium (with a domed theater screen), programs presented range from black holes to the origin of life itself. | 201 10th St. W | 941/746–4131 | www.southfloridamuseum.org | $19 | Mon.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. noon–5. May and June, Aug.–Dec., closed Mon.
Fodor’s Choice | TreeUmph! Adventure Course.
Daredevils of all ages will love this collection of aerial ropes courses and zip lines. Those who partake will traverse swinging bridges, Tarzan ropes, treacherous hanging nets, and other obstacles suspended high in the air between the tall trees here, not to mention the many zip lines at the end of each set of obstacles. Adrenaline will flow more than once during this half-day adventure, but cautious parents need not worry; everyone is secured in a harness, and staff require everyone to demonstrate that they understand the park’s many rules by watching a safety video and traversing a small demo course. There’s a course that’s just for small kids aged 7–12, but most can test their bravery on the five main courses, which get progressively more difficult (culminating in the ultratough Summit Course; most people don’t get that far). At the end, everyone, regardless of whether they finished, can partake in a 650 foot-long zip line that starts at 60 feet high and offers spectacular views (the only way to get there is to climb a series of ladders). TIP Check the weather before you go. If there’s lightning within a small radius, staff has to ground you for at least half an hour, and the clock gets set back every time there’s a nearby strike. | 21805 State Rd. 70 E | 941/322–2130, 855/322–2130 | treeumph.com | $49.95.
Beaches
Anna Maria Island, Bradenton’s 7-mile barrier island to the west, has a number of worthwhile beaches, as does Longboat Key. Manatee Avenue connects the mainland to the island via the Palma Sola Causeway, adjacent to which is a long, sandy beach fronting Palma Sola Bay. There are boat ramps, a dock, and picnic tables.
Anna Maria Bayfront Park.
This narrow yet secluded beach fronts Tampa Bay at Passage Key Inlet and the Gulf of Mexico. It’s also situated between two fishing piers. Don’t forget to bring the picnic gear to this unforgettably scenic stretch of shoreline. Amenities: lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: solitude; sunset. | 310 North Bay Blvd., adjacent to municipal pier, Anna Maria Island.
Coquina Beach.
Singles and families flock to Coquina Beach, a wider swath of sand is at the southern end of Anna Maria Island. Beach walkers love this stretch since it’s Anna Maria’s longest beach, and it also attracts crowds of young revelers. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: solitude; swimming; walking. | 1800 Gulf Dr. S, Anna Maria Island.
Cortez Beach.
Towering Australian pines greet you at the entrance of this popular beach park, a favorite among locals and visitors alike. Amenities: lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: solitude; swimming; walking. | Gulf Blvd., between 5th and 13th Aves. | Bradenton Beach.
Greer Island Beach.
Just across the inlet on the northern tip of Longboat Key, Greer Island Beach is accessible by boat or by car via North Shore Boulevard (you can walk here at low tide, but be sure to leave before the tide comes in. You’ll also hear this place referred to as Beer Can Island. The secluded peninsula has a wide beach and excellent shelling, but no facilities. Amenities: None. Best for: solitude; walking. | 7500 Gulf of Mexico Dr. | Longboat Key.
Manatee Beach Park.
In the middle of Anna Maria Island, Manatee County Beach is popular with beachgoers of all ages. Paid parking is in the gravel lot next to the beach. Amenities: food and drink; parking; showers; toilets. Best for: solitude; swimming; walking. | 4000 S.R. 64, at Gulf Dr. | Holmes Beach.
Where to Eat
Fodor’s Choice | Euphemia Haye.
$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | A lush tropical setting on the barrier island of Longboat Key, this is one of the most romantic restaurants around. The staff is friendly and gracious, the food delightful, and the atmosphere contagious. Its popular dessert display is a sweet ending to the pricey menu items that feature signature dishes such as crisp roast duckling with bread stuffing, and flambéed prime peppered steak. The upstairs Haye Loft, once the home of the original owner’s grandson, has been converted into a more casual bistro and lounge. | Average main: $40 | 5540 Gulf of Mexico Dr. | Longboat Key | 941/383–3633 | www.euphemiahaye.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Gulf Drive Café & Tiki.
$ | AMERICAN | Especially popular for breakfast (served all day), this unassuming landmark squats on the beach and serves cheap sit-down eats: mostly sandwiches, but also a wide array of entrées after 4 pm. | Average main: $14 | 900 N. Gulf Dr. N | Bradenton Beach | 941/778–1919.
Sandbar Restaurant.
$$$ | AMERICAN | While their ever-evolving menu features cutting-edge fare for the most sophisticated of palates, the margarita-and-coconut-shrimp crowd will thoroughly enjoy it here as well. Much of what you’ll find on the menu at this beachfront spot is harvested nearby, whether it’s herbs and vegetables from one of the gardens along Pine Avenue or fresh fish from nearby Cortez. If the grouper is not fresh, it is not on the menu. You can find grouper blackened or in taco form, or you can venture from the norm and order crab bellies and caviar or wild boar served with sauerkraut salsa verde. The vision here is quintessentially local and sustainable. If you opt for wine, the restaurant’s private-label bottles, produced in California, are a good option. | Average main: $22 | 100 Spring Ave., Anna Maria Island | 941/778–0444 | www.groupersandwich.com.
Where to Stay
BridgeWalk.
$$ | RENTAL | This circa-1947 Caribbean colonial-style property is across from the beach and a community within itself. Three buildings accommodate guests: The Royal Palm, the Sabal Palm Building, and the Queen Palm offer a range of options, from townhomes, studio suites, and “apartos.” Part of the charm of BridgeWalk is the brick walkway to the long, historic pier to various restaurants and quaint attractions. Since this is more of a condominium property than a hotel (though not all units have a full kitchen), minimum stays may be required during high season (February through April). Pros: great location; variety of lodging and dining experiences. Cons: can be pricey. | Rooms from: $219 | 100 Bridge St. | Bradenton Beach | 941/779–2545, 866/779–2545 | www.silverresorts.com | 28 apartments | No meals.
Longboat Key Club & Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | This spectacularly landscaped property is one of the best places to play golf in the state, and among the top tennis resorts in the country. There is debate about what attracts more guests: the 45 holes of challenging golf or the 291-slip marina. It could also be the Island House Spa or the delicious dinner in the resort’s Sand’s Pointe, one of six restaurants on the property. Water is the test on both golf courses, which have excellent pro shops. Hobie Cats, kayaks, and deep-sea charters are available. The 20-court Tennis Gardens is an outstanding tennis facility. All rooms have balconies overlooking the golf course, beach, or private lagoon where manatees and dolphins are occasionally spotted. Golf and dining facilities are for guests and members only. Pros: upscale vibe; lovely grounds; most rooms have private balcony. Cons: service can feel snooty. | Rooms from: $569 | 220 Sands Point Rd. | Longboat Key | 941/383–8821, 855/314–2619 | www.longboatkeyclub.com | 218 rooms and suites | No meals.
Mainsail Beach Inn.
$$$$ | RENTAL | If you’re looking for upscale digs on low-key Anna Maria Island, you’ll find them at this small, amenity-laden complex on the beach. Half of the units here are two bedrooms, the other have three, and all have a full kitchens with granite countertops as well as the latest appliances. The complex wraps around a large courtyard with a pool and a hot tub. All rooms have a balcony; all are also just steps from the beach. Beach Bistro is just across the parking lot. And while the shopping and dining on Pine Avenue isn’t exactly a quick walk (it’s a couple of miles north), a free beach trolley will get you where you need to go. Vacancies are scarce during high season, so book early. Pros: on beach; upscale apartments; full of amenities. Cons: not for the thrifty; early (10 am) checkout. | Rooms from: $534 | 101 66th St. | Holmes Beach | 888/849–2642 | mainsailbeachinn.com | 6 2-bedroom condos, 6 3-bedroom condos | No meals.
Silver Surf Gulf Beach Resort.
$$ | RESORT | A sister to BridgeWalk, the Silver Surf has the air of a well-maintained 1960s motel with a modern twist, thanks to recent renovations to all of the studios and full apartments. Consisting of three buildings—Seahorse, Sand Dollar, and Star Fish—it sits on its own private beach and has a heated pool; there are many restaurants nearby. The staff can arrange scooter, personal watercraft, and kayak rentals for you. A free trolley takes you to and from each tip of Anna Maria Island. Pros: location; freshly renovated rooms and exterior; good value for your money. Cons: while nice, the rooms are still pretty basic (this is not luxury). | Rooms from: $219 | 1301 Gulf Dr. N, Anna Maria Island | Bradenton Beach | 941/778–6626, 800/441–7873 | www.silverresorts.com | 10 rooms, 14 suites, 2 townhomes | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Golf
Buffalo Creek Golf Course.
The excellent county-owned course was designed by Ron Garl to resemble a Scottish links course, making it among the more challenging courses in the area. Still, novice golfers have a shot here. There are water hazards on several holes (not to mention a gator or two), and the terrain varies throughout. Some consider it to be the best public golf course in the Tampa Bay area. All greens were renovated in 2014. Players can choose to play the whole course or just a quick 9-hole game. The clubhouse offers cold beer at the end of the course. | 8100 Erie Rd. | Palmetto | 941/776–2611 | www.golfmanatee.com | $26 for 9 holes, $54 for 18 holes | 18 holes, 7005 yards, par 72.
The Legacy Golf Club at Lakewood Ranch.
Arnold Palmer was among the designers of this semiprivate course. Among the more memorable holes is the 3rd, which for obvious reasons is dubbed the “Island Hole.” It’s not the toughest one on the course, but it is probably the most scenic. One of the course’s more challenging, the lake-abutting “Watering Hole,” follows. Holes 7, 9, 13, and 17 (another island) are also full of water hazards. The Ranch Grille serves lunch daily. | 8255 Legacy Blvd. | 941/907–7067 | www.legacygolfclub.com | $69 | 18 holes, 7100 yards, par 72.
Ringling Bicycles.
This outfit rents bicycles for all needs and speeds for adults and kids starting at $45 a day, or $150 a week. | 3606 Manatee Ave. W | 941/749–1442 | www.ringlingbicycles.com.
Sarasota
30 miles south of Tampa and St. Petersburg.
Sarasota is a year-round destination and home to some of Florida’s most affluent residents. Circus magnate John Ringling and his wife, Mable, started the city on the road to becoming one of the state’s hotbeds for the arts. Today sporting and cultural events can be enjoyed anytime of the year, and there’s a higher concentration of upscale shops, restaurants, and hotels here than in other parts of the Tampa Bay area. Across the water from Sarasota lie the barrier islands of Siesta Key and Lido Key, with myriad beaches, shops, hotels, condominiums, and houses.
Getting Here and Around
Sarasota is accessible from Interstate 75, Interstate 275, and U.S. 41. The town’s public transit company is Sarasota County Area Transit (SCAT). Fares for local bus service range from $0.75 to $3 (for an all-day pass); exact change is required. A $60 monthly “R-Card” is available for unlimited rides on all SCAT and Manatee County Area Transit (MCAT) routes. If you want to make it to the farther reaches of the area, though, renting a car is probably your best bet.
Contacts
Sarasota County Area Transit (SCAT). | 941/861–5000 | www.scgov.net/scat.
Visitor Information
Contacts
Sarasota Convention and Visitors Bureau. This organization has the skinny on South Tampa Bay. | 701 N. Tamiami Trail | 941/957–1877 | www.sarasotafl.org.
Exploring
Top Attractions
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art.
Administered by Florida State University, the museum encompasses the entire Ringling estate, far more than just the art museum; there’s also the Tibbals Learning Center and Circus Museums as well as Ca’ d’Zan Mansion, the original Ringling home, and its expansive gardens. The entire compound covers 20 waterfront acres and also has the Historic Asolo Theater, restaurants, and a research library.
The Art Museum was a dream long in the making for John Ringling (of Ringling Brothers fame). Finally finished in 1931 after setbacks including a land bust and the death of his wife Mable, this enormous museum was originally built to house Ringling’s mindblowingly expansive art collection. You’ll find works ranging from Indian doorways elaborately carved with Jain deities to opalescent Baroque paintings from the likes of Rubens. There seems to be an endless number of rooms, themselves decorated in an appropriately gorgeous manner, housing these masterpieces. A wing that features traveling exhibits serves as a temporary home to many thought-provoking pieces throughout the year. The museum’s exit opens out into an enormous courtyard, over which a towering statue of David replica presides, flanked by royal palms.
Circus magnate John Ringling’s grand home, Ca’ d’Zan, which was built along Sarasota Bay, was patterned after Doge’s Palace in Venice. This exquisite mansion of 32 rooms, 15 bathrooms, and a 61-foot Belvedere Tower was completed in 1925, and today is the crowning jewel at the site of the Ringling Estate. Its 8,000-square-foot terrace overlooks the dock where Ringling’s wife, Mable, moored her gondola. Mansion tours occur on the hour, and last half an hour. If you don’t want a guided tour, show up on the half-hour for a self-guided tour.
Allot some extra time to wander around in the Mable Ringling’s Rose Garden, a lush labyrinth surrounded by towering banyans and full of rare roses and haunting statues.
Don’t let the name Tibbals Learning Center fool you. This Ringling estate attraction offers a colorful glimpse into a most wondrous element of a bygone era: the traveling circus. The center focuses on the history of the American circus and the collection of Howard Tibbals, master model builder, who spent 40 years building the world’s largest miniature circus. Perhaps the center’s main attraction, this impressive to-scale replica of the circa 1920s and ‘30s Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus is an astonishingly accurate portrayal of a circus coming through town—the number of pancakes the circus cooks are flipping, the exact likenesses and costumes of the performers, the correct names of the animals marked on the miniature mess buckets—you name it. Tibbals’s passion to re-create every exact detail continues in his on-site workshop, where kids can ask him questions and watch him carving animals and intricate wagons.
If you’re looking for clown noses, ringmaster hats, and circus-themed T-shirts, don’t leave before checking out the Ringling Museum of Art Store.
The Historic Asolo Theater is also on the estate grounds and is home to the Asolo Repertory Company. | 5401 Bay Shore Rd., ½ mile west of Sarasota-Bradenton Airport | 941/359–5700 | www.ringling.org | $25 (art museum only free Mon.) | Grounds daily 9:30–6; museums and mansion daily 10–5 (until 8 Thurs.).
Marie Selby Botanical Gardens.
Orchids make up nearly a third of the 20,000 species of flowers and plants here. You can stroll through the Tropical Display House, home of orchids and colorful bromeliads gathered from rain forests, and wander the garden pathway past plantings of bamboo, ancient banyans, and mangrove forests along Little Sarasota Bay. Although spring sees the best blooms, the greenhouses make this an attraction for all seasons. The added bonus is a spectacular view of downtown. There are rotating exhibits of botanical art and photography in a 1934 restored Southern Colonial mansion. Enjoy lunch at the Local Coffee + Tea, a cafe in the historic Selby House. | 811 S. Palm Ave. | 941/366–5731 | www.selby.org | $19 | Daily 10–5.
Worth Noting
FAMILY | Mote Aquarium.
A renowned research facility, the Mote is also a popular tourist attraction that draws families and others interested in its international array of ocean creatures. A 135,000-gallon shark tank lets you view various types of sharks from above and below the surface. Other tanks show off eels, rays, and other marine creatures native to the area. There’s also a touch tank where you can get friendly with horseshoe crabs, conchs, and other creatures. Fossil Creek offers aspiring marine paleontologists a chance to sift through a bucket of sand for ancient shark teeth and fossilized stingray tails. The expanded Seahorse Conservation Lab offers a glimpse into the unusual creatures’ lives and how the aquarium is working to help them survive and thrive. Hugh and Buffett are the resident manatees and, though not as venerable as Snooty at the Parker Manatee Aquarium, they have lived here since 1996 as part of a research program. There’s also a permanent sea-turtle exhibit. For an extra fee, Sarasota Bay Explorers offers boat tours from the museum’s dock (reservations required), guided kayak tours through the mangroves, private tours and a “Nature Safari.” | 1600 Ken Thompson Pkwy., City Island | 941/388–4441 | www.mote.org | $19.75 | Aquarium daily 10–5; boat tours daily at varying times.
FAMILY | Sarasota Jungle Gardens.
One of Old Florida’s charming, family-owned and -operated attractions, Sarasota Jungle Gardens fills 10 acres with native and exotic animals as well as tropical plants. The lush gardens date to 1939, and still have the small-world feel of yesterday’s Florida. You’ll find red-tailed hawks and great horned owls in the birds of prey show, American alligators and a variety of snakes in the reptile encounter, and bugs of many varieties in a show called Critters and Things. Among more cuddly residents here are lemurs, monkeys, and prairie dogs. You can talk to trainers and get to know such plants as the rare Australian nut tree and the Peruvian apple cactus in the gardens. Also on-site are flocks of flamingos that guests can hand-feed, plus reptiles and a butterfly garden. | 3701 Bay Shore Rd. | 941/355–5305 | www.sarasotajunglegardens.com | $15.99 | Daily 10–5.
Beaches
Fodor’s Choice | Siesta Beach.
With 40 acres of nature trails, this park is popular; you’ll find tons of amenities. This beach has fine, powdery quartz sand that squeaks under your feet, very much like the sand along the state’s northwestern coast. Don’t forget to bring a volleyball—or a tennis racket. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets. Best for: partiers; sunset; swimming; walking. | 948 Beach Rd. | Siesta Key.
South Lido Park.
At the southern tip of the island, South Lido Park has one of the best beaches in the region, but there are no lifeguards. The 100-acre park interacts with four significant bodies of water: the Gulf of Mexico, Big Pass, Sarasota Bay, and Brushy Bayou. The sugar-sand beach has plenty of early morning sand dollars and is a popular place to fish. Picnic as the sun sets through the Australian pines into the water. Facilities include nature trails, canoe and kayak trails, restrooms, and picnic grounds. This park was purchased by John Ringling in 1920 as part of his ambitious plan to develop island properties. His plan collapsed with the great Florida Land bust of 1926. Because of swift rip currents, swimming here is not recommended. Amenities: showers; toilets. Best for: solitude; walking. | 2201 Ben Franklin Dr. | Lido Key.
Turtle Beach.
A 14-acre beach-park that’s popular with families, Turtle has 2,600 linear feet of beach frontage and is more secluded than most gulf beaches. Though narrower than most of the region’s beaches, it’s also much less crowded, so it doesn’t feel so narrow. It’s known for abundant sea turtles. It has covered picnic shelters, grills, and a volleyball court. Locals like the 40-site campground that is also open to visitors with advance reservations. Fittingly enough, this beach is near the über-mellow Turtle Beach Resort. Amenities: toilets. Best for: solitude; sunset; swimming; walking. | 8918 Midnight Pass Rd. | Siesta Key | 941/349–3839.
Where to Eat
Beach Bistro.
$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | The menu at this cozy beachfront spot features “One Helluva Soup” made of plum tomatoes with sweet cream and blue cheese—it can be “goosed” with a half-shot of Grey Goose if ordered. Standards here include a melt-in-your-mouth, herb-rubbed rack of lamb, a seafood bouillabaisse, and duckling confit with a peppercorn-and-cognac demi-glace. There also are five or six nightly specials such as nut-and-coconut-crusted grouper. Smaller appetites can save some pesos by ordering from the menu of smaller plates that features the likes of lobster, duckling, and a single lamb chop. Outside seating at new tables that are directly on the beach offers amazing sunset views, and a special beachfront menu features more casual fare. | Average main: $45 | 6600 Gulf Dr. | Holmes Beach | 941/778–6444 | www.beachbistro.com | No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Bijou Café.
$$$ | CAFÉ | Once a 50-seat 1920 gas station–turned-restaurant, the Bijou is now a 140-seat restaurant with the type of enchanting decor you might expect in a quaint, modern European café—think French windows and doors, sparkling glassware, bouquets of freshly picked flowers, and the soft glow of candlelight. Lunches begin with an inspired soup, salads, or sandwiches such as the pesto chicken salad croissant. Dinners emphasize fresh local produce and sustainable seafood. Opera season—typically February and March—is the only time Sunday dinner is served. | Average main: $30 | 1287 1st St. | 941/366–8111 | www.bijoucafe.net | Apr.–Jan., closed Sun. No lunch weekends.
Café Baci.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Specializing in Tuscan and Roman cuisine, Café Baci appeals to loyal locals and savvy travelers alike. Its menu highlights original family recipes; specialties range from fresh, succulent seafood dishes and homemade pastas to traditional veal recipes such as piccata de vitella simmered with white wine, lemon, and capers or grilled salmon served on spinach pesto risotto. From the moment you walk through the door, you’ll enjoy the peaceful, elegant, Italian-inspired atmosphere. | Average main: $23 | 4001 S. Tamiami Trail | 941/921–4848 | www.cafebacisarasota.com | No lunch weekends
Café L’Europe.
$$$$ | CAFÉ | Located in St. Armand’s Circle, this sidewalk and indoor café has a spectacular menu featuring tableside specialties such as chateaubriand for two. Other popular entrées range from potato-crusted grouper and brandied duckling to rack of lamb. There’s also a nice choice of wines by the glass. Veranda tables are a great place to watch shoppers and strollers. A doggie dining menu is available if you want to bring your best friend along. | Average main: $33 | 431 St. Armands Circle | Lido Key | 941/388–4415 | www.cafeleurope.net.
Columbia.
$$$ | SPANISH | On trendy St. Armand’s Circle, patrons perch for a good meal and amazing people-watching. The local chain’s 1905 salad—with ham, olives, cheese, and garlic—deserves its cult status. October through May sees stone crabs fresh from the Gulf of Mexico. Order them chilled, steamed, with butter, with mustard sauce and lemon, or broiled “Carioca” style with Latin spices. The crusty bread and Spanish bean soup enhance the flavors. | Average main: $19 | 411 St. Armand’s Circle | Lido Key | 941/388–3987 | www.columbiarestaurant.com/sarasota.
Michael’s on East.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Not only do the lounge and piano bar, with their extensive wines and vintage cocktails, lure the after-theater set, but inspired cuisine and superior service also entice. Inside its Midtown Plaza shopping center location, you’ll find a decor similar to New York’s better bistros of the 1930s and ‘40s, but there is plenty of veranda seating for enjoying Sarasota’s balmy weather. The fare ranges from pan-roasted cobia to Manchester Farm grilled quail with anise-scented sweet potato puree. The ever-evolving dessert menu features creative combinations for concluding your cuisine adventure. | Average main: $26 | 1212 East Ave. S | 941/366–0007 | www.michaelsoneast.com | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.
The Old Salty Dog.
$$ | AMERICAN | A menu of steamer and raw-bar options has been added to the much-enjoyed old favorites, including quarter-pound hot dogs, fish-and-chips, wings, and burgers. With views of New Pass between Longboat and Lido Keys, this is a popular stop for locals and visitors en route from Mote Aquarium and the adjoining bayfront park. Open-air dining area is comfortable even in summer, thanks to a pleasant breeze. Its bar is shaped from the hull of an old boat. There’s another branch on Siesta Key (5023 Ocean Blvd., 941/349–0158). | Average main: $15 | 1601 Ken Thompson Pkwy., City Island | 941/388–4311 | www.theoldsaltydog.com | Reservations not accepted.
Ophelia’s on the Bay.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Florida the way it should be: you can watch as dolphins swim past while blue herons lounge on the dock. Enjoy the flowering gardens while dining alfresco on the outdoor patio on its dock at Market #48 or in one of two casually elegant dining rooms. An ever-evolving menu highlights the Florida surroundings with selections such as Gulf mangrove snapper served with a side of truffle gratin dauphinoise. A popular dish is the “lazy” Maine lobster, served without a shell with stewed San Marzano tomatoes and crushed chilis. The tuna (bigeye, yellowfin, and more) is flown in from Hawaii thanks to owner Jane Ferro, who is also the grandniece of the restaurant’s namesake. | Average main: $32 | 9105 Midnight Pass Rd. | Siesta Key | 941/349–2212 | www.opheliasonthebay.net | No lunch Mon.–Sat.
Owen’s Fish Camp.
$$ | SOUTHERN | Nestled in a banyan-shaded corner of the hip Burns Court district of downtown Sarasota, this spot dishes out quintessentially Southern fare (though the menu is not geographically limited) that is particularly heavy on the seafood options—everything from an oyster po’ boy with bacon to grilled giant prawns with chili, a popular appetizer. The restaurant is a converted cottage built in 1923, and the setting gives an additional layer of charm to a casual eatery that’s already won the hearts of tourists and locals alike. Takeaway “jars” offered include smoked fish spread with saltines, fried pickles, and boiled peanuts. Note: there can often be a wait, so get here early because you can’t reserve a table. | Average main: $16 | 516 Burns Ct. | 941/951–6936 | owensfishcamp.com | Reservations not accepted | No lunch.
Yoder’s.
$ | AMERICAN | Lines for meals stretch well beyond the hostess podium here. Pies—key lime, egg custard, banana cream, peanut butter, strawberry rhubarb, and others—are the main event at this family restaurant in the heart of Sarasota’s Amish community. Daily specials typically include zesty goulash, chicken and dumplings, and pulled smoked pork. For breakfast, choose from French toast stuffed with cream cheese (or Oreos) or perhaps a hearty stack of pancakes. Sandwiches include Manhattans (roast beef, turkey, or meat loaf on homemade bread with mashed potatoes and gravy). The entire village is always crowded, but there’s plenty of waitstaff who keep tables clean and cleared, so the flow is steady. The decor retains its Old Florida efficiency appearance. | Average main: $10 | 3434 Bahia Vista | 941/955–7771 | www.yodersrestaurant.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Sun.
Where to Stay
Gulf Beach Resort.
$$ | RENTAL | Lido Key’s first motel, this beachfront condo complex has been designated a historic property. It’s composed of condominium units that are rented out as motel rooms; since each unit is individually owned, renovations at the property are continuous, but there is no uniformity. Rooms are bright and each has a different decor—many return visitors have their favorite rooms and book several years in advance. Pros: near shopping; well maintained; lots of beach; free Wi-Fi. Cons: basic rooms; motel feel. | Rooms from: $205 | 930 Ben Franklin Dr. | Lido Key | 941/388–2127, 800/232–2489 | www.gulfbeachsarasota.com | 8 rooms, 41 suites | No meals.
Hyatt Regency Sarasota.
$$$ | HOTEL | Popular among business travelers, the Hyatt Regency is contemporary in design and sits in the heart of the city across from the Van Wezel Performing Arts Hall. Rooms have some high-tech touches, such as flat-screen TVs and docking stations for electronics. All overlook Sarasota Bay or the marina and the lagoon-style pool and hot tub, which have waterfalls flowing into them. The higher floors have the best views. Your concierge will arrange fishing, golfing, and even babysitting. Pros: great location; stellar views. Cons: chain-hotel feel. | Rooms from: $369 | 1000 Blvd. of the Arts | 941/953–1234, 800/233–1234 | www.sarasota.hyatt.com | 294 rooms, 12 suites | Multiple meal plans.
Lido Beach Resort.
$$$ | RENTAL | Superb gulf views can be found at this stylish beachfront resort. In the South Tower, the majority of rooms have beach and gulf views. There are two free-form pools and three hot tubs, all right on the beach. Spring training packages are available for Orioles fans. Pros: beachfront location; many rooms have kitchens. Cons: bland, somewhat dated furnishings. | Rooms from: $369 | 700 Ben Franklin Dr. | Lido Key | 941/388–2161, 800/441–2113 | www.lidobeachresort.com | 158 rooms, 64 suites | No meals.
Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota.
$$$$ | HOTEL | With a style that developers like to say is circus magnate John Ringling’s realized dream, The Ritz is appointed with fine artwork and fresh-cut flowers. Its marble-floored hallways are softened with plush Oriental rugs. Rooms have marble bathrooms, and private balconies with views of the bay, the marina, or the downtown skyline. A private 18-hole Tom Fazio–designed golf course is 12 miles northeast of the property on the Braden River; guests can also lounge at the beach club three miles away on Lido Key. A Victorian-style spa and guest-and-members-only beach facility on Lido Key, about 4 miles away, make this city resort full-service. As far as dining goes, Jack Dusty serves creative local seafood dishes alongside handcrafted cocktails, and Bayview Burger Bar offers all-American favorites as well as unforgettable panoramic views of the gulf. Pros: Ritz-style glitz; lots of amenities; attentive staff. Cons: long distance to golf course; not on the beach. | Rooms from: $559 | 1111 Ritz-Carlton Dr. | 941/309–2000, 800/241–3333 | www.ritzcarlton.com/sarasota | 266 rooms, 30 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Turtle Beach Resort.
$$ | HOTEL | Reminiscent of a quieter time, many of the cottages at this friendly, affordable, family- and pet-friendly resort date to the 1940s, a romantic plus for yesteryear lovers. In all, there are two studios, two one-bedroom units, and six two-bedroom cottages with full kitchens (all for adults only), as well as 10 cottages that allow children. Some units have courtyards; those on the bay side have the best view. The grounds are private, shielded by high wooden fences and palms, bougainvilleas, and other tropical foliage. The inn sits on Sarasota Bay and is named for the sea turtle nesting sites that lie across the street. If you really want to escape, use one of the resort’s canoes or kayaks to paddle a short distance south to a beach dotted with sand dunes and sea oats. Pros: nice location; romantic setting; self-serve laundry and Wi-Fi included. Cons: far from the area’s cultural attractions. | Rooms from: $299 | 9049 Midnight Pass Rd. | Siesta Key | 941/349–4554 | www.turtlebeachresort.com | 7 rooms, 3 suites, 10 cottages | No meals.
Nightlife and Performing Arts
Nightlife
Blase Cafe and Lounge.
Siesta Key Village doesn’t shut down after the dinner crowd vacates its eateries. To the contrary, there are quite a few places to grab a beverage or two. Blase is a good pick if you’re in a martini mood. While the cafe has some pretty sophisticated fare, you can be dressed casual if you want to belly up to the circular bar. | 5263 Ocean Blvd. | Siesta Key | 941/349–9822 | www.theblasecafe.com.
5 O’clock Club.
If you find yourself in Southside Village after dinner and are looking for a watering hole that offers live music, look no further. This spot has been one of Sarasota’s key music venues for years. Musical offerings differ by night, but you can expect to hear blues, jazz, or rock covers on a given night. If you’re looking for a more upscale club, look elsewhere; this is a no-frills kind of place. | 1930 Hillview St. | 941/366–5555 | www.5oclockclub.net.
Gator Club.
A famous nightclub located in a beautifully restored, brick historic cornerstone building downtown, the Gator Club has live music and dancing 365 days a year. | 1490 Main St. | 941/366–5969 | www.thegatorclub.com.
Straight Up Night Club @ 15 South.
St. Armand’s Circle is a pretty bustling place in the daytime, but the action continues into the wee hours—if you know where to find it. This bar, which is upstairs from the popular upscale Italian restaurant of the same name, has an excellent martini list and plenty of live music, namely salsa on weekends. | 15 S. Blvd. of the Presidents | Lido Key | 877/708–8312 | www.15southristorante.com.
Performing Arts
Asolo Repertory Theatre.
One of the best theaters in Sarasota stages productions from November to June in varying venues, which include the Historic Asolo Theater in the Ringling Estate. | 5555 Tamiami Trail | 941/351–8000 | www.asolorep.org.
Burns Court Cinema.
There aren’t many places in the Tampa Bay area where you can catch indie and foreign films. Since it first opened on the edge of downtown Sarasota in 1993, this old-timey four-screen movie house has been one of the few. It’s less than a block from Burns Square’s many stylish yet low-key dining offerings, and, unlike your average corporate movie theater, admission doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. Beer and wine are also available. | 506 Burns Ct. | 941/955–3456 | filmsociety.org.
The Players Theatre.
A long-established community theater, having launched such actors as Montgomery Clift and Paul Reubens, this troupe performs comedies, special events, live concerts, and musicals. | 838 N. Tamiami Trail, U.S. 41 and 9th St. | 941/365–2494 | www.theplayers.org.
Sarasota Opera.
Performing in a historic 1,122-seat downtown theater, the Sarasota Opera features internationally known artists singing the principal roles, supported by a professional chorus of young apprentices. | The Edwards Theater, 61 N. Pineapple Ave. | 941/328–1300 | sarasotaopera.org.
Sarasota Orchestra.
Performers include members of the Florida West Coast Symphony, Florida String Quartet, Florida Brass Quintet, Florida Wind Quintet, and New Artists Piano Quartet. | 709 N. Tamiami Trail | 941/953–3434 | www.sarasotaorchestra.org.
Shopping
St. Armand’s Circle has a cluster of oh-so-exclusive shops and laid-back restaurants. It’s just east of Lido Beach.
Elysian Fields Bookstore.
This independent store carries a diverse selection of books and periodicals, as well as gifts, candles, and jewelry, and hosts various events and art fairs. | Midtown Plaza, 1273 S. Tamiami Trail | 941/361–3006 | www.elysianfieldsonline.com.
L. Boutique.
Find the trendiest fashions and most stylish handbags and shoes from top designers in this downtown Sarasota shop. Attached is a swanky spa. | 556 S. Pineapple Ave. | 941/906–1350 | www.lboutiques.com.
Lotus.
The specialties here include women’s denim and fashion, cute handbags, perfumes, and lingerie. | 1451 Main St. | 941/906–7080 | www.lotussarasota.com.
St. Armand’s Circle.
No visit to Sarasota is complete without a visit to this busy yet laid-back shopping and dining hub. One can literally refer to it as a hub because it’s arranged around a large traffic circle in the middle of Lido Key. You’ll find a sprinkling of upscale retail chains, including White House Black Market, but the area’s small, imaginative boutiques are the real draw. Among them is Foxy Lady, which sells trendy women’s clothing. The Met is also a good option for women’s fashion. St. Armand’s Circle also offers plenty of dining/desert (especially ice cream) options, nightlife, and just plain people watching. Some days you can even spot a busker or two performing on one of the area’s many street corners. | 300 Madison Dr. | 941/388–1554 | www.starmandscircleassoc.com.
Siesta Key Village.
Not too far from Siesta Key’s wildly popular beaches is a cluster of shops, restaurants, and watering holes you won’t want to miss. This is a great place to shop and grab a bite after the beach—or earlier if it’s not a beach day. Park in the municipal lot at the end of Avenida Madera, then stroll down Ocean Boulevard, where you’ll find clusters of upscale shops and a range of restaurants and bars. | Ocean Blvd., between Beach Rd. and Av. Madera | Siesta Key | www.siestakeyvillage.org.
Southside Village.
This is one of Sarasota’s newer spots, with tons of sidewalk cafés, hip boutiques, jewelry stores, and an excellent gourmet market. This place hasn’t gotten as much attention as St. Armand’s Circle, but it’s also got a much shorter history. It’s popular among locals and is now starting to get on the radar for visitors. | Osprey Ave. at Hillview St. | 941/366–0771.
Sports and the Outdoors
Boat Tours
Sarasota Bay Explorers.
Many visitors to the Mote Aquarium take the 105-minute boat trip onto Sarasota Bay. Conducted by Sarasota Bay Explorers, all boat trips are done in conjunction with the aquarium and leave from the aquarium’s dock. The crew brings marine life on board, explains what it is, and throws it back to swim away. You are almost guaranteed to see bottlenose dolphins. Reservations are recommended. You can also charter the Miss Explorer, a 24-foot Sea Ray Sundeck, or take a guided kayak or nature tour. | Mote Aquarium, 1600 Ken Thompson Pkwy. | 941/388–4200 | www.sarasotabayexplorers.com | Boat tour $27, kayak tour $55, nature tour $45, charters $295–$445 | Tours daily at 11, 1:30, and 4 (reservations required).
Fishing
Flying Fish Fleet.
Several boats can be chartered for deep-sea fishing, and there are daily group trips on a “party” fishing boat. | 2 Marina Plaza, U.S. 41, on bay front at Marina Jack | 941/366–3373 | www.flyingfishfleet.com.
Golf
Bobby Jones Golf Course.
This public 45-hole course is over a century old and caters to a range of golfers. The setting is lush and green, with plenty of live oak trees and water. The grounds here are so pleasant that many choose to walk their chosen course, of which there are three. The American Course is best for less experienced golfers or those who want to practice their short shot, and features a range of lakes and varied terrain. The British Course is slightly more challenging, offering longer fairways dotted with water hazards and sand bunkers. The Gillespie Executive Course is recommended for beginners or those lacking the time needed for a full 18 holes. A large ravine divides much of the course from several of its greens approaches. | 1000 Circus Blvd. | 941/365–2200 | www.bobbyjonesgolfclub.com | $25 for 9 holes, $35 for 18 holes | American Course: 18 holes, 6032 yards, par 71; British Course: 18 holes, 6710 yards, par 72; Gillespie Executive Course: 9 holes, 1716 yards, par 30.
Kayaking
Sarasota Bay Explorers, which operates from the Mote Aquarium, also offers guided kayaking trips.
Siesta Sports Rentals.
Up for rent here are kayaks, bikes, beach chairs, scooters, and beach wheelchairs and strollers. Guided kayaking trips are also available. | 6551 Midnight Pass Rd. | Siesta Key | 941/346–1797 | www.siestasportsrentals.com.
Venice
18 miles south of Sarasota.
This small town is crisscrossed with canals like the city for which it was named. Venice beaches are good for shell collecting, but they’re best known for their wealth of sharks’ teeth and fossils, washed up from the ancient shark burial grounds just offshore.
Beaches
Blind Pass Beach.
This is a good beach for nature lovers and a great spot if you are looking for a tranquil stretch of beach. The park contains about 60 acres of gulf-to-bay land. If you’re up for a hike, check out the short nature trail on site, and keep an eye out for the Hermitage House, one of the oldest structures in the area. Amenities: showers; toilets. Best for: solitude; swimming. | 6725 Manasota Key Rd. | Manasota Key.
Caspersen Beach.
Sarasota County’s largest park is known for its fossil finds. Amenities: toilets, showers. Best for: solitude; walking. | 4100 Harbor Dr.
Englewood Beach.
This beach is popular with teenagers, although beachgoers of all ages frequent it. While it attracts crowds, it’s easy to find your own patch of beach. Parking can be tough on busy weekends. Amenities: showers; toilets. Best for: partiers; swimming. | N. Beach Rd., at Beach Rd. | Manasota Key.
Manasota Beach.
Consisting of both gulf and Intracoastal Waterway frontage, this beach is best reached on foot from Caspersen Beach. By road, it’s a lot less direct. Features include a boardwalk, boat launch, and picnic shelters. Amenities: toilets; showers. Best for: swimming; walking. | 8570 Manasota Key Rd. | Manasota Key.
Nokomis Beach.
This beach is on the island just north of Venice Beach, across the pass near North Jetty Park. It’s frequented more by sunbathing retirees than young partiers. Amenities: food and drink; parking; showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming. | 100 Casey Key Rd. | Nokomis.
North Jetty Park.
At the south end of Casey Key, this beach is a favorite for family outings and fishermen. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets. Best for: swimming; walking. | 1000 S. Casey Rd. | Nokomis.