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Jacksonville Beaches | Mayport | Fort George Island | Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach
Jacksonville Beaches
Atlantic Beach is 20 miles east of Jacksonville, on U.S. 90 (Beach Blvd.).
Perhaps because the Intracoastal Waterway isn’t all that wide where it separates the mainland from the beaches, people here aren’t likely to think of themselves as “islanders.” But they are, indeed, living on a barrier island, functioning with its own rhythms and led by its own elected officials. And, although there’s only one island, there are four beach communities, each with its own mayor and city officials, tax base, and local legislation. They are, from north to south, Atlantic Beach, Neptune Beach, Jacksonville Beach, and Ponte Vedra Beach. Technically, Ponte Vedra, which is home to the PGA Tour, crosses the border between Duval County and St. Johns County, but the four communities are all considered “Jacksonville’s beaches.” Further north are two other popular coastal destinations, Mayport and Fort George Island.
Oceanfront properties here can be worth millions, but a few blocks from the beach, things become more affordable. That means kids grow up and go to school together, and then stick around to live in and govern the towns together. Instead of pouring money into attractions designed to rake in tourism dollars, locals are likely to concentrate on subjects such as good schools and parks. Because of this, some visitors might find area beaches to be a little calmer and quieter than they expected.
But there’s a real sense of community—and a laid-back pace. You might want to embrace it all. In fact, many vacationers like the easy pace so much that they decide to make the area their permanent home.
Atlantic Beach
20 miles east of Jacksonville, on U.S. 90 (Beach Blvd.).
Beautiful sand and plentiful activities keep tourists coming back to this relatively tranquil beach community. You can even rejuvenate with some prime pampering at the One Ocean resort’s spa. Hotel guests and those wandering in from the beach can both use this luxurious oceanfront hotel’s beach rental services, which offer umbrellas, lounge chairs, Boogie boards, kayaks, and surfboards for a fee.
Beaches
Atlantic Beach.
If you’re looking for sun-soaked relaxation, head for Atlantic Beach, where you can sink your feet into its white, sugary sands or catch some waves in the warm surf. Beachgoers with canine companions are welcome at Atlantic Beach during the day and evening as long as the dog is leashed. Atlantic Beach and next-door Neptune Beach share the trendy Town Center, which has lots of tempting dining and shopping within a block of the beach. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards (seasonal); showers; water sports. Best for: sunrise; surfing; swimming; walking. | Beach Ave., between 18th and 20th Sts.; Dewees Ave., between 1st and 16th Sts.; Ahern St. and Atlantic Blvd. | 904/247–5828 | www.coab.us.
Where to Eat
Al’s Pizza.
$ | ITALIAN | The beach locations of this popular restaurant defy all expectations of a neighborhood pizza joint. Bright colors and geometric patterns accent the dining room, which manages to look retro (soda-fountain chairs) and modern (steel columns) at the same time. The menu is fairly predictable; there’s pizza by the slice and by the pie, plus standbys like lasagna and ravioli. The clientele, too, is typical beachgoer, with lots of young surfer dudes and dudettes and sunburned families, as well as a fair representation of older Atlantic Beach couples, who come for the food more than the scene. Service is quick, but finding parking at peak hours can be a problem. Check behind the restaurant as well as out front. There’s also a branch in Ponte Vedra Beach. | Average main: $10 | 303 Atlantic Blvd. | 904/249–0002 | www.alspizza.com | Reservations not accepted.
The Fish Company Restaurant and Oyster Bar.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | If you want fresh fish, this is the place. Owners Bill and Ann Pinner have lots of street cred: among other area culinary achievements, Bill worked at Ragtime Tavern for years, helping establish it as an institution. Options include perfectly blended crab cakes, oh-so-lightly fried Mayport shrimp (never a heavy batter that might cover up the flavor), seafood salads, and delicious sides. And there are plenty of offerings for meat lovers in the family, too. The raw bar is the centerpiece, with happy hour prices for raw or steamed on Tuesday and Wednesday. The full drinks bar has happy-hour prices 2–7 Monday through Saturday and all day on Sunday. | Average main: $22 | 725-12 Atlantic Blvd. | 904/246–0123 | www.thefishcojax.com | Reservations not accepted.
Fodor’s Choice | Ocean 60.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Despite being only a block from the Atlantic Ocean, this lively restaurant/wine bar/martini room has gone largely undiscovered by visitors, who might think fine dining and flip-flops don’t mix. Those who do stumble upon it, however, are pleasantly surprised to find that despite its casual aura, Ocean 60’s eclectic seasonal menu is quite sophisticated, with signature items including salmon gratin (seared salmon topped with a Parmesan and tomato gratin served over butternut squash risotto), rosemary grilled New York strip, and wild mushroom crepes. Things are anything but laid-back on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights, however, thanks to live music and potent cocktails. | Average main: $22 | 60 Ocean Blvd. | 904/247–0060 | www.ocean60.com | Closed Sun. No lunch.
Ragtime Tavern Seafood & Grill.
$$ | CAJUN | A New Orleans theme prevails at this lively venue, a long-time favorite with locals and visitors alike. The restaurant attracts a crowd ranging in age from 21 to midlife-crisis, both to sample the craft beer and eat the seafood-based fare. Grouper oscar (seared and topped with crabmeat, asparagus, and Bernaise sauce) and Ragtime shrimp (deep-fried fresh shrimp rolled in coconut) are specialties (as are microbrews made on the premises), or try a po’boy sandwich or fish sizzled on the grill. Brunch is served Sunday only. | Average main: $18 | 207 Atlantic Blvd. | 904/241–7877 | www.ragtimetavern.com.
Where to Stay
FAMILY | One Ocean.
$ | RESORT | Atlantic Beach’s only high-rise oceanfront hotel captures the serenity of the sea through a color palette of translucent green, sand, and sky blue, and reflective materials such as glass and marble. A sophisticated yet relaxed “art gallery” theme is carried through to the original photographs that hang in every room. Some guests may balk at the expensive $27 a day resort fee above and beyond the room rate, but considering all it includes (Wi-Fi, mini-refrigerator and amenities cabinet stocked with your favorite soft drinks and snacks, coffee delivery, and clothes-steaming service—but not parking), it’s not such bad deal. The resort is pet- and kid-friendly and has the only oceanfront spa in northeast Florida. Pros: exceptional service; walking distance to restaurants, shops, and the beach; all rooms have ocean view; 24-hour room service. Cons: tiny bathrooms; no self-parking on property; steep resort fee and separate parking fee. | Rooms from: $199 | 1 Ocean Blvd. | 904/249–7402 | www.oneoceanresort.com | 190 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.
Neptune Beach
1.7 miles south of Atlantic Beach.
One of the quieter and less crowded beach towns in the area is a great destination if you want to escape for the day from the more crowded sands to the north and south. Slider’s Bar and Grill is a local favorite, or make a pit stop at the oldest bar at the beaches, Pete’s Bar, just to say you were there.
Beaches
Neptune Beach.
Between Atlantic and Jacksonville beaches, this is a great family spot. It’s an excellent destination for those wishing to combine a day at the beach with other activities. Because Neptune and Atlantic beaches share Atlantic Avenue’s Town Center, with its assortment of restaurants, galleries, stores, and boutiques, beachgoers can escape the sun when they’re ready for great food, shopping, and live entertainment. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards (seasonal); showers. Best for: sunrise; swimming; walking. | Strand St., between Atlantic Blvd. and Gaillardia Pl., Oak St. and Rose Pl., North St. and 20th Ave. | www.ci.neptune-beach.fl.us.
Where to Stay
Sea Horse Oceanfront Inn.
$ | HOTEL | This bright-pink-and-aqua 1950s-era throwback caters to budget-minded guests seeking an ultracasual, laid-back oceanfront experience. The vibe may be retro, but the technology is up-to-date, with free Wi-Fi and flat-screen TVs with HBO. Rooms were totally renovated in 2015 and are equipped with a microwave, coffeemaker, and small fridge. Each has an ocean view with a private balcony or patio from which to watch the sun or moon rise from the Atlantic. The kidney-shape pool and lounge chairs are pretty standard issue but offer a refreshing respite from the hot Florida sun or the salty ocean. The Lemon Bar is a hot spot for locals and hotel guests. Pros: beach access with private walk-over; popular bar on-site; walking distance to wide variety of restaurants and shops; free breakfast baskets available at front desk. Cons: no-frills; no room service; no elevator. | Rooms from: $139 | 120 Atlantic Blvd. | 904/246–2175, 800/881–2330 | www.seahorseoceanfrontinn.com | 38 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.
Nightlife
Pete’s Bar.
The oldest bar in the Jacksonville area is also notable for the cheapest drinks, cheapest pool tables, and most colorful clientele. Serving locals and tourists for more than seven decades, Pete’s has been written about by authors like John Grisham and James W. Hall, probably because it’s across from The BookMark, a great independent bookstore where writers love to give readings. | 117 1st St. | 904/249–9158.
Shopping
The BookMark.
It may be small in size, but this book shop is big in prestige. Thanks to its knowledgeable owners, many famous authors love this place and always include it on their publicity tours. Once you’ve bought books here a time or two, the staff will be able to recommend ones you’ll like with amazing accuracy. | 220 1st St. | 904/241–9026 | www.bookmarkbeach.com | Mon.–Wed. 10–7, Thurs.–Sat. 10–8, Sun. 11–5.
Jacksonville Beach
2.2 miles south of Neptune Beach.
This family-friendly beach community has blossomed in recent years and remains busy during the spring and summer. The municipal Seawalk Pavilion hosts outdoor movies, concerts, and festivals, and the 2-acre Oceanfront Park (1st Street South, between 5th Avenue South and 6th Avenue South) has a small playground, volleyball court, and picnic areas. Anglers can fish without a license from the wheelchair-accessible 1,320-foot fishing pier ($4, $1 spectator; daily 6 am–10 pm), which also has free fish-cleaning stations, a bait-and-tackle shop, and free parking. The historic Casa Marina Hotel, which opened its doors here in 1925, has a popular Sunday brunch.
Exploring
FAMILY | Adventure Landing and Shipwreck Island Water Park.
With go-karts, two miniature-golf courses, laser tag, batting cages, kiddie rides, and an arcade, Adventure Landing is more like an old-time boardwalk than a high-tech amusement park. But when the closest theme park is more than two hours away, you make do. The largest indoor/outdoor family-entertainment center in northeast Florida also encompasses Shipwreck Island Water Park, which features a lazy river for tubing, a 500,000-gallon wave pool, and four extreme slides—the Rage, HydroHalfpipe, Eye of the Storm, and Undertow. | 1944 Beach Blvd. | 904/246–4386 | www.adventurelanding.com | Adventure Landing free (fees for rides and games), Shipwreck Island $27.99 | Adventure Landing: Sun.–Thurs. 10–10, Fri. and Sat. 10 am–2 am; Shipwreck Island: late Mar.–late Sept., hrs vary.
Beaches Museum & History Park.
This charming museum has exhibitions on the history of the beaches communities, the St. Johns River, the fishing and shrimping industry, and the area’s early settlers. Its gift shop is a good place to find Florida souvenirs of every variety, from tasteful histories of the local area to pure kitsch. Admission includes a guided tour of the adjacent Historical Park with its 1911 steam locomotive, railroad foreman’s house, and the Mayport Depot. | 381 Beach Blvd. | 904/241–5657 | www.beachesmuseum.org | Free (donations accepted) | Tues.–Sat. 10–4, Sun. noon–4.
J. Johnson Gallery.
Built by photographer and art collector Jennifer Johnson, this stunning Mediterranean building just a block from the ocean in Jacksonville Beach hosts contemporary art exhibits you’d expect to find only in the nation’s largest and most sophisticated cities. Exhibits such as “Multiplicity” and “Contemporary Complexities” include work by emerging artists as well as established names. The gallery is also a sales gallery and, in addition, presents experimental and project work. | 177 4th Ave. N | 904/435–3200 | www.jjohnsongallery.com | Free | Tues.–Fri. 10–5, Sat. 1–5.
Beaches
Jacksonville Beach.
Enjoy the waves at one of Jacksonville’s busier beaches, which stretches along the coast for 4.1 miles. A boardwalk and a bevy of beachfront restaurants and shops are also draws, so expect moderate crowds during spring and summer school breaks. Amenities: toilets; showers; food and drink; lifeguards (seasonal); parking (free). Best for: partiers; sunrise; surfing; swimming. | 1st St., between Seagate and S. 16th Aves. | 904/241–1515 fishing pier | www.jacksonvillebeach.org.
Where to Eat
FAMILY | Ellen’s Kitchen.
$ | AMERICAN | Once upon a time, Ellen’s Kitchen was a breakfast and lunch place inside Silver’s Drug Store at First and Atlantic, a longtime landmark where locals came to salve their hangovers. Silver’s is no more, and Ellen’s long ago relocated to a shopping strip, but it’s still an institution, and probably will be for generations. It’s also a great place to bring the kids, thanks to the kid-friendly menu, very reasonable prices, and relaxed atmosphere. Sure, you can get your eggs over easy and your bacon crisp, but if you want to be mistaken for a local, ask for a Hippie or a Surfer, two poached-egg-on-English-muffin creations. If it’s hollandaise sauce you’re craving, the crab cake Benedict is brunch perfection. Breakfast is served until the doors close at 2 pm, but the lunch menu is also fairly extensive. Don’t expect too much chat from your server at “rush hour” on weekend mornings—everyone’s usually working at warp speed. Regardless, though, the staffers do their best to please, no matter how crowded. | Average main: $9 | 1824 3rd St. S | 904/246–1572 | Reservations not accepted | No dinner.
European Street Café.
$ | AMERICAN | This colorful, quirky, beer-hall inspired, family-owned eatery is part of a local chain and has a menu with an ambitious list of sandwiches, salads, and soups; an overflowing gourmet-food section; a mind-boggling beer list; cookies big enough to knock someone unconscious; and a range of other generous desserts. Thirsty locals belly up to the impressive, hand-carved bar for monthly beer tastings and daily happy hour (2–7 pm). More mature crowds prefer to sip their zinfandel in the bustling dining room. | Average main: $9 | 992 Beach Blvd. | 904/249–3001 | www.europeanstreet.com | Reservations not accepted.
Mojo Kitchen BBQ Pit & Blues Bar.
$ | BARBECUE | True barbecue aficionados know that the country’s really divided into four territories: North Carolina, Memphis, Kansas City, and Texas, each renowned for its own barbecue style. Owner Todd Lineberry did some serious research into each region before deciding his restaurants would honor all four traditions—along with some original flavor. In addition to great barbecue, you’ll find Deep South sides like cheese grits and fried green tomatoes as well as sweet tea and banana pudding. The beach location attracts young and old, blue collar and no-collar, all ready to chow down on generous portions, with a backdrop of bright, bold-color walls and edgy portraits of blues royalty. Mojo’s appreciation for the blues doesn’t end with the interior design. There’s good recorded blues at all times, and on occasion, some great live blues as well. | Average main: $14 | 1500 Beach Blvd. | 904/247–6636 | www.mojobbq.com | Reservations not accepted.
Where to Stay
Casa Marina Hotel.
$ | HOTEL | Compared with nearby oceanfront inns, it’s small, but Casa Marina’s creature comforts and rich history—it opened in 1925 and hosted Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Al Capone in its early days—make it a hit with those looking for a characterful retreat. Rooms are spacious, with comfy beds and period decor, and most have some view of the ocean. Unwind in the large courtyard behind the hotel with a drink from the bar, or take a stroll on the beach. The romance of the location and the building attracts weddings galore, so Friday and Saturday nights can get noisy with the Penthouse Lounge in operation. An acclaimed Sunday brunch brings flocks of locals to the restaurant. Pros: oceanfront location; comfortable beds; continental breakfast. Cons: no pool; noise from lounge. | Rooms from: $159 | 691 1st St. N | 904/270–0025 | www.casamarinahotel.com | 7 rooms, 16 suites | Breakfast.
Nightlife
Free Bird Live.
Named for local band Lynyrd Skynyrd’s iconic song, this medium-sized (it holds 700) concert venue is owned by Judy Van Zant-Jenness (widow of Lynyrd Skynyrd’s Ronnie Van Zant). While it draws some complaints about its standing-room-only tickets and slow bar service, it also gets raves for the chance to see great blues, rock, funk, rockabilly, and jam bands in an intimate setting. However, the club is only open when there’s a show, so that often limits openings to weekends. | 200 1st St. N | 904/246–2473 | www.freebirdlive.com | Admission varies by show.
Lynch’s Irish Pub.
Hoist a pint o’ Guinness and enjoy live local music. This popular Irish eatery also offers traditional fare, along with pub grub. | 514 N. 1st St. | 904/249–5181 | www.lynchsirishpub.com.
Penthouse Lounge.
If you’d rather gawk at sports stars in person than on the tube, head to this oceanfront spot, perched atop the historic Casa Marina Hotel, where local NFL and PGA stars have been known to congregate. But they are not the only stellar objects on view; the night sky or the moonrise over the ocean offer sights just as fabulous. | Casa Marina Hotel, 691 N. 1st St. | 904/270–0025 | www.casamarinahotel.com.
Sneakers Sports Grille.
With dozens of big screens and an impressive menu (by sports-bar standards anyway), this is the go-to sports bar at the beach. | 111 Beach Blvd. | 904/482–1000 | www.sneakerssportsgrille.com.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
Champion Cycling.
You can rent beach cruisers by the hour or the day—or get your high-end racing bike repaired—at this full-service bike shop. | 1303 N. 3rd St. | 904/241–0900.
Ponte Vedra Beach
3.9 miles south of Jacksonville Beach.
Although this upscale coastal community 18 miles southeast of downtown Jacksonville is primarily known for its golf courses and swanky homes, it also has beautiful beaches as well as a number of resorts: the Ponte Vedra Inn & Club, The Lodge & Club, and the Sawgrass Marriott.
Beaches
Ponte Vedra Beach.
Public beach access for nonresort guests is minimal in most areas because of heavily restricted parking. However, thanks to its free public parking, Mickler’s Landing, south of most residences, is the most popular beach access point. It’s also famous as a great place to find fossilized sharks’ teeth. Amenities: showers; toilets; lifeguards (seasonal); parking (free). Best for: solitude; sunrise; walking. | East of intersection of A1A S and Ponte Vedra Blvd.
Where to Eat
Aqua Grill.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Come hungry. That might be the best advice for visitors to this restaurant, whose menu covers all the bases—steaks, pasta, pork shank, burgers. But eclectic preparation of fresh seafood is what Aqua Grill does best. The constantly changing menu might include crispy red snapper Bangkok or pan-seared local triggerfish with pork belly confit and fried leeks. Portions are huge, so share an appetizer, several featuring local Mayport shrimp. The restaurant is a popular spot for locals celebrating special occasions, but it’s more casual than formal and has a charming lakeside patio dining area surrounded by waterfalls. Kids—and adults—love observing the colorful saltwater aquarium in the dining room. There’s a lively bar scene, with sports showing on seven HDTVs. The full menu is available at the bar, but there’s bar food, too, such as the chef’s El Presidente wings. | Average main: $25 | 950 Sawgrass Village | 904/285–3017 | www.aquagrill.net.
Where to Stay
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | The Lodge & Club.
$$$ | RESORT | This Mediterranean-revival oceanfront resort—with its white-stucco exterior and Spanish roof tiles—is luxury lodging at its best. Rooms, completely renovated in 2015, are spacious and have cozy window seats, appealing artwork, and private balconies overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Some units include a whirlpool tub and gas fireplace. Guests consistently praise staff for going the extra mile, whether it’s accommodating special diets in the dining room or coordinating day trips and shopping excursions. Relax at two heated pools (one a zero-entry splash pool and mini-water park) or on the private beach. Guests at the Lodge have full access to sports, recreation, and spa facilities at nearby sister property Ponte Vedra Inn & Club. Pros: high-end accommodations; excellent service; private beach. Cons: most recreation facilities are a few blocks away at Ponte Vedra Inn & Club; gratuity charge automatically added to bill nightly. | Rooms from: $319 | 607 Ponte Vedra Blvd. | 904/273–9500, 800/243–4304 | www.pontevedra.com | 42 rooms, 24 suites | No meals.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Ponte Vedra Inn & Club.
$$$ | RESORT | Considered northeast Florida’s premier resort for decades, this award-winning 1928 landmark continues to wow guests with its stellar service and large guest rooms housed in white-brick, red-tile-roof buildings lining the beach. Most rooms have ocean views, balconies, or terraces, and were renovated in 2015 to include oversize windows, designer furniture, luxury bedding, desks, flat-screen TVs, and Wi-Fi. The main house holds the registration area and some common spaces, including a big living room with fireplace. The inn’s renowned full-service spa attracts the rich and famous, including actors, supermodels, and former first ladies. Activities include golf, tennis, cycling, fishing, sailing, and swimming in your choice of four heated pools. Pros: accommodating, friendly staff; private beach; adults-only pool. Cons: charge for umbrellas and chaises on the beach; crowded pools at some times of year. | Rooms from: $399 | 200 Ponte Vedra Blvd. | 904/285–1111, 800/234–7842 | www.pontevedra.com | 250 rooms, 33 suites | No meals.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Sawgrass Marriott Golf Resort & Spa.
$$ | RESORT | Golf is at the heart of this luxurious resort, which underwent an extensive renovation in 2015, but there’s no lack of opportunity for other recreation or for sheer indulgent relaxation, if that’s what you’re after. Besides offering access to the renowned Stadium Course at TPC Sawgrass, which hosts The Players Championship each year, the resort has trails for jogging or biking, as well as an acclaimed 18-hole mini-golf course that appeals to the whole family. There are plenty of other activities for the kids, too. Or, you can simply laze about in the highly regarded spa or by one of four swimming pools. It’s not an oceanfront resort, but that’s just a technicality: the exclusive oceanfront Cabana Beach Club is a three-minute drive or shuttle ride away. The elegant hotel tower is home to several casual on-site restaurants, including Alice & Pete’s Pub and the upscale Vernon’s. Pros: championship golf courses; beautiful surroundings; readily available shuttle; efficient staff. Cons: beach not within walking distance; steep resort fee for in-room Wi-Fi, parking, and shuttle. | Rooms from: $219 | 1000 PGA Tour Blvd. | 904/285–7777, 800/457–4653 | www.sawgrassmarriott.com | 489 rooms, 21 suites | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Biking
Ponte Vedra Bicycles.
This outfitter includes free bike maps with your rental. | 250 Solana Rd. | 904/273–0199.
Golf
Every May millions of golf fans watch golf’s most elite competitors vie for the prestige of winning THE PLAYERS Championship. The event—considered by many to be the sport’s “unofficial fifth major”—takes place each year at the Tournament Players Club (TPC) Sawgrass in Ponte Vedra Beach, 20 miles southeast of Jacksonville. Designed and built for major tournament golf, TPC has elevated seating areas that give more than 40,000 fans a great view of the action. And while you’re in the area, be sure to visit the World Golf Hall of Fame a few miles down the road in St. Augustine.
Tournament Players Club Sawgrass.
There are two golf courses here: the Stadium Course (with its world-renowned Island Green), which hosts THE PLAYERS Championship each year, and the Pete Dye–designed Valley Course. In conjunction with the Sawgrass Marriott, TPC offers packages like the Tour Player Experience, which not only provides access to the TPC’s player area, but also gives you a caddie who wears your name on the back of his golf shirt just like he does when caddying for the pros. How cool is that? The Dye’s Valley Course will be open throughout 2016. However, at this writing the Stadium Course was expected to close for a six-month renovation of the stadium greens from May to November 2016. Though not as lauded as the Stadium Course, the Valley Course has hosted its share of major golf events, such as the Senior Players Championship and the NFL Golf Classic. Though challenging, it has wider fairways and more expansive greens than the Stadium Course, which was designed to test the world’s best players. If you want to play a round of golf and aren’t staying at the Marriott, check out the Resort Day Passes. | 110 Championship Way | 904/273–3235, 800/457–4653 | www.tpc.com/sawgrass | Stadium Course, $400; Dye’s Valley Course, $195 | Stadium Course: 18 holes, 7215 yards, par 72; Dye’s Valley Course: 18 holes, 6864 yards, par 72.
Mayport
20 miles northeast of downtown Jacksonville, on Rte. A1A/105.
Dating back more than 300 years, this fishing village has several excellent and very casual seafood restaurants and markets, and a commercial shrimping fleet. It’s also home to one of the largest naval facilities in the country, Naval Station Mayport.
Getting Here and Around
St. Johns River Ferry.
The arrival of the Jean Ribault ferry in 1948 made everyday life here more convenient—and fun. The 153-vessel continues to delight passengers young and old as they embark on the 10-minute cruise across the river between Mayport and Fort George Island. The cost is $5 per motorcycle, $6 per car. Pedestrians enjoy the ride for just $1 each way. Call for departure times. | 904/241–9969 | www.stjohnsriverferry.com.
Exploring
Fodor’s Choice | Kathryn Abbey Hanna Park.
This 450-acre oceanfront park and campground just north of Atlantic Beach is beloved by surfers, swimmers, campers, hikers, and especially bikers, who regularly hit the many off-road bike trails from novice right up to those named Grunt and Misery. You can rent canoes, kayaks, or paddleboats to go out on the 60-acre freshwater lake. Younger kids delight in the lakefront playground and a water park with fountains and squirting hoses. There are restrooms, picnic areas, and grills throughout, and from Memorial Day to Labor Day lifeguards supervise all water activities. | 500 Wonderwood Dr. | 904/249–4700 | $5 per vehicle, cash only | Apr.–Oct., daily 8–8; Nov.–Mar., daily 8–6.
Fort George Island
25 miles northeast of Jacksonville, on Rte. A1A/105.
One of the oldest inhabited areas of Florida, Fort George Island is lush with foliage, natural vegetation, and wildlife. A 4-mile nature and bike trail meanders across the island, revealing shell mounds dating as far back as 5,000 years.
Exploring
Kingsley Plantation.
Built in 1792 by Zephaniah Kingsley, a landowner who produced Sea Island cotton, citrus, sugar cane, and corn with the aid of about 60 slaves, this is the oldest remaining cotton plantation in the state. The ruins of 23 tabby (a concretelike mixture of sand and crushed shells) slave houses, a barn, and the modest Kingsley home are open to the public via self-guided tours and reachable by bridge. | 11676 Palmetto Ave. | 904/251–3537 | www.nps.gov/timu | Free | Daily 9–5; plantation house weekends only; call ahead for reservations.
Talbot Island State Parks.
These parks, including Big and Little Talbot islands, have 17 miles of gorgeous beaches, sand dunes, and golden marshes that hum with birds and native waterfowl. Come to picnic, fish, swim, snorkel, or camp. Little Talbot Island, one of the few undeveloped barrier islands in Florida, has river otters, marsh rabbits, raccoons, alligators, and gopher tortoises. Canoe and kayak rentals are available, and the north area is considered the best surfing spot in northeast Florida. A 4-mile nature trail winds across Little Talbot, and there are several smaller trails on Big Talbot. | 12157 Heckscher Dr. | 904/251–2320 | www.floridastateparks.org/park/Big-Talbot-Island | $5 per vehicle, up to 8 people; $4 single occupant | Daily 8–sunset.
Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach
35 miles northeast of Jacksonville.
At the northeasternmost reach of Florida, Amelia Island has beautiful beaches with enormous sand dunes along its eastern flank, a state park with a Civil War fort, sophisticated restaurants, interesting shops, and accommodations that range from bed-and-breakfasts to luxury resorts. The town of Fernandina Beach is on the island’s northern end; a century ago casinos and brothels thrived here, but those are gone. Today there’s little reminder of the town’s wild days, though one event comes close: the Isle of Eight Flags Shrimp Festival, held during the first weekend of May.
Tours
Amelia River Cruises and Charters.
Narrated tours in shaded pontoon boats that glide near the area’s marshes, rivers, and wilderness beaches, from American Beach and Fernandina on Amelia Island, to Cumberland Island in Georgia. | 1 N. Front St. | 904/261–9972, 877/264–9972 | www.ameliarivercruises.com.
Visitor Information
Contact
Amelia Island Convention and Visitors Bureau. | 904/277–0717 | www.ameliaisland.com.
Exploring
Fernandina Historic District.
This district in Fernandina Beach, which is home to Florida’s oldest existing lighthouse, oldest bar, and oldest hotel, has more than 50 blocks of buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places; 450 ornate structures built before 1927 offer some of the nation’s finest examples of Queen Anne, Victorian, and Italianate homes. Many date from the haven’s mid-19th-century glory days. Pick up a self-guided-tour map at the chamber of commerce, in the old train depot—once a stopping point on the first cross-state railroad—and take your time exploring the quaint shops, restaurants, and boutiques that populate the district, especially along Centre Street.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Fort Clinch State Park.
One of the country’s best-preserved and most complete 19th-century brick forts, Fort Clinch was built to discourage further British intrusion after the War of 1812 and was occupied in 1863 by the Confederacy; a year later it was retaken by the North. During the Spanish-American War it was reactivated for a brief time, but no battles were ever fought on its grounds (which explains why it’s so well preserved). Wander through restored buildings, including furnished barracks, a kitchen, and a repair shop. Living-history reenactments of Civil War garrison life are scheduled throughout the year. The 1,086-acre park surrounding the fort has full-facility camping, nature trails, carriage rides, a swimming beach, and surf and pier fishing. Nature buffs enjoy the variety of flora and fauna, especially since Fort Clinch is the only state park in northeast Florida designated by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission as a viewing destination for the eastern brown pelican, green sea turtle, and loggerhead sea turtle. | 2601 Atlantic Ave. | 904/277–7274 | www.floridastateparks.org/fortclinch | $6 per vehicle, up to 8 people; $4 motorcycles; $2 per person entry to fort | Daily 8–sunset; fort 9–5.
St. Peter’s Episcopal Church.
Founded in 1858, the church is a Gothic Revival structure with Tiffany-glass-style memorials and a turn-of-the-20th-century L.C. Harrison organ with magnificent hand-painted pipes. | 801 Atlantic Ave. | 904/261–4293 | www.stpetersparish.org.
Beaches
There are a number of places on Amelia Island where driving on the beach is allowed in designated areas, including Seaside Park, Peters Point, Burney Park, and Amelia Island State Park. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle (and a lot of beach equipment to haul), you may want to try this. Be warned, though: it’s easier to get stuck than you might think, and towing is expensive. You also need to watch the tides carefully if you don’t want your car floating out to sea. And unless you’re a county resident or disabled, you must buy a permit, which is available at the Nassau County Historic Courthouse (416 Centre St., Fernandina Beach | 904/491–6430), Beach Rentals and More (2012 S. Fletcher Ave., Fernandina Beach | 904/310–6124), and several other locations. All city beaches have free admission.
Huguenot Memorial Park.
Though it’s officially a Jacksonville city park, this popular spot on the northern side of the St. Johns River is usually grouped with Amelia’s beaches. Among a handful of places where driving on the beach is permitted, it’s unusual in that no special permit is required. Families with lots of beach equipment like the option of parking close to the water, but it takes vigilance to avoid soft sand and incoming tides. The ocean side offers good surfing, Boogie boarding, and surf fishing. On the western side is a shallow, sheltered lagoon that’s a favorite with windsurfers, paddleboarders, and parents of small children. The eastern side offers views of the aircraft carriers and destroyers at Mayport Naval Station. The park is also an important stop for migrating birds, so at certain times of the year, some areas are closed to vehicles. Amenities: showers; toilets; lifeguards (seasonal); parking (free). Best for: surfing; swimming; windsurfing. | 10980 Heckscher Dr. | Jacksonville | 904/251–3335 | $3 per person 8–10 am, $4 per car after 10 | Apr.–Oct., daily 8–8; Nov.–Mar., daily 8–6.
Main Beach Park.
Of all Fernandina Beach access points, this is likely to be the most crowded—but also the most fun for kids and teens. Not only are there sand volleyball courts, a beachfront playground, picnic tables, and a multipurpose court, at the park itself, but there’s old-school fun to be had at the adjacent skate park and vintage miniature-golf course, whose concession stand sells cold drinks, ice cream, and snow cones. A casual restaurant and bar are right on the beach. Amenities: showers; toilets; food and drink; lifeguards (seasonal); parking (free). Best for: swimming. | 32 N. Fletcher Ave.
Peters Point Beach.
At the south end of the island, this beach allows you free access to the same gorgeous sands used by vacationers at the Ritz-Carlton. It has a large parking area, a picnic area, barbecue grills, and three lifeguard towers. Amenities: showers; toilets; lifeguards (seasonal); parking (free). Best for: sunrise; surfing; swimming; walking. | 1974 S. Fletcher Ave.
Seaside Park Beach.
Like Main Beach to the north and Peters Point to the south, Seaside Park allows limited beach driving if you have a permit, but beware—vehicles here frequently get stuck and have to be towed. There are several pavilions with picnic tables and dune walkovers to the beach. It’s a great place to fish or to ride bikes at low tide. Bikes and other beach equipment can be rented at Beach Rentals and More, right across from the park (2021 S. Fletcher Ave.). Also nearby, Sliders Seaside Grill is a venerable oceanfront restaurant where you can enjoy food and drinks inside or at the tiki bar overlooking the beach, often with live music. Amenities: showers; toilets; food and drink; lifeguards (seasonal); parking (free). Best for: surfing; swimming; walking. | Sadler Rd. and S. Fletcher Ave. | www.fbfl.us.
Talbot Islands State Parks Beaches.
A few miles south of Fernandina Beach, the Talbot Islands State Parks system consists of seven parks, three of which have beach settings. All of the oceanfront parks have picnic areas and a small admission charge but free parking. Little Talbot is popular for swimming and beachcombing. Sand dollars are often found at the far north end. Big Talbot, with its Boneyard Beach of wind-twisted trees, is not recommended for swimming but is a photographer’s paradise. Amelia Island State Park is best known for letting you horseback ride on the beach as well as for the adjacent George Crady fishing pier. Kayak and canoe tours can be booked through the parks system’s vendor, Kayak Amelia. Amenities: showers; toilets; lifeguards (seasonal); parking (free). Best for: solitude; sunrise; swimming; walking. | Rte. A1A, south of Fernandina Beach | www.floridastateparks.org | Little Talbot, $5 per vehicle; Big Talbot, $3 per vehicle for The Bluffs picnic area; Amelia Island, $2 per person.
Where to Eat
PLAE.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | PLAE (People Laughing and Eating) has an extensive wine list and an upscale but eclectic menu with French, Asian, and Mediterranean influences. Adventurous diners love to order the Chef’s Plate, not knowing exactly what delights the chef has prepared for the evening until they appear at the table. The atmosphere varies greatly depending on your seating choice. Indoors has a sleek, contemporary ambience with intimate, high-backed booths. The outdoor patio provides a view over the beautiful natural surroundings of the adjacent golf course. Although the location at the Spa & Shops at Omni Amelia Island Plantation makes it a favorite with Plantation visitors, it’s an independently owned restaurant (the only one on property) and equally popular with locals. | Average main: $35 | Omni Amelia Island Plantation, 80 Amelia Village Circle | 904/277–2132 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun.
Fodor’s Choice | Salt.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | The Ritz-Carlton’s oceanfront restaurant serves inventive cuisine that utilizes seasonal ingredients such as golden tile fish with gnocchi, spinach, and grapefruit, or a Darling Downs Wagyu rib eye cooked on a wood-burning grill. The signature dish is beef tenderloin served on a block of Himalayan salt. The wine list has more than 300 bottles (24 by the glass), service is nothing short of impeccable, and there’s that view of the Atlantic from every table. For a unique dining experience, reserve a seat in the private dining room within the kitchen to “Dine With the Chefs,” watching them at work while you enjoy a personalized five-course meal. To learn the secrets of Salt’s cuisine, consider taking one of the Salt cooking school sessions. They’ve proven so popular, the Ritz-Carlton has expanded the schedule to several a year. Long pants and collared shirts are recommended (for dining, we mean; cooking students get their own Ritz-Carlton aprons). | Average main: $56 | The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island, 4750 Amelia Island Pkwy. | Amelia Island | 904/277–1000 | www.ritzcarlton.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. No lunch.
FAMILY | Sliders Seaside Grill.
$$ | SEAFOOD | After the condo-building boom of the last decade or so, not many oceanfront restaurants remain, but thankfully this is one of them. Indeed there aren’t many places where you can enjoy an ocean view like this—a surf break offshore makes it a good place to watch surfers do their thing—and even fewer with a moderately priced menu that allows for an affordable family outing. These are some of the reasons Sliders has evolved into a local favorite, but another is its award-winning Florida seafood dishes, including shrimp and grits, and Apalachicola oysters in season. Sliders also has three bars and live music every night during the summer, including the region’s favorite reggae band, Pili Pili, on Wednesday. | Average main: $18 | 1998 S. Fletcher Ave. | 904/277–6652 | www.slidersseaside.com.
Verandah Restaurant.
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Although it’s at the Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort, this family-friendly restaurant is open to nonresort guests, many of whom drive in from Jacksonville. The dining room has a casual vibe, with plush, roomy booths and tables overlooking the tennis facility, but the menu is all business, with a focus on Southern and local food. Start with the crab cake—nearly 100% blue crab—or deviled eggs topped with pecanwood smoked bacon. Fresh seafood entrées are a highlight, including the Florida fish muddle (fresh catch with Mayport shrimp and clams) and line-caught pink snapper with Cohen Farm’s pecans and local strawberries. And if you luck out and find she-crab soup on the menu (it’s seasonal and not always available), order yourself the biggest bowl or bucket they have. If it isn’t she-crab season, go for the Low Country Oyster Chowder. | Average main: $39 | Omni Amelia Island Plantation, 142 Raquet Park Dr. | Amelia Island | 904/277–5958 | www.omnihotels.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Where to Stay
FAMILY | Amelia Hotel at the Beach.
$ | HOTEL | Across the street from the beach, this mid-size inn is not only convenient but an economical and family-friendly alternative to the area’s luxury resorts and romantic and kid-unfriendly B&Bs. The beach and several restaurants are within walking distance, particularly convenient for families. Parents also appreciate the hotel-wide no-smoking policy and full breakfast served each morning in the lobby. Rooms are modestly furnished and have ocean views (provided you’re not near-sighted) and pool views (though the pool is practically in the parking lot, so it’s not much to look at). Pros: complimentary breakfast; free Wi-Fi; comfy beds. Cons: small pool; not all rooms have balconies. | Rooms from: $159 | 1997 S. Fletcher Ave. | 904/206–5200, 877/263–5428 | www.ameliahotel.com | 86 rooms | Breakfast.
Elizabeth Pointe Lodge.
$$ | B&B/INN | Guests at this oceanfront inn, built to resemble an 1890s sea-captain’s house, can’t say enough about the impeccable personal service, legendary breakfasts, and enjoyable evening social hour. Start the day with dill scrambled eggs or French toast, and end it with evening hors d’oeuvres and wine in the library. Ocean-side units have great water views, albeit through disappointingly small windows. The Tradewinds Suite, with an ocean view, private patio, and plantation-style shutters, is the most romantic. A chair-lined porch lets you rock in ocean breezes, and on cold nights you can cluster around the living-room fireplace. An adjacent cottage has additional rooms and a suite. Pros: beachfront location; hospitable staff; 24-hour desk attendant; convenient to recreation possibilities; free Wi-Fi. Cons: pricey for a B&B; not all rooms are oceanfront; must reserve well in advance in high season. | Rooms from: $280 | 98 S. Fletcher Ave. | 904/277–4851, 800/772–3359 | www.elizabethpointelodge.com | 24 rooms, 1 2-bedroom cottage | Breakfast.
Florida House Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | This charming, 150-year-old inn, once used by guests of the Vanderbilt, DuPont, and Carnegie families, whose “cottages” sat nearby on Cumberland and Jekyll islands, has been fully restored, with a rambling two-story clapboard main building full of character. Rooms have handmade quilts and hooked rugs, king-size beds, and whirlpool tubs. The Mermaid Bar, a lively first-floor pub, can be a blessing or a curse, depending on whether you’re trying to catch up on your social skills or your sleep. Request a room in the south wing if you’re attempting the latter. Pros: breakfast included; outstanding service; walk to restaurants and shops; free Wi-Fi; bridal suite. Cons: bar can be noisy; rooms are small. | Rooms from: $160 | 22 S. 3rd St. | 904/491–3322, 800/258–3301 | www.floridahouseinn.com | 16 rooms | Breakfast.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort and the Villas of Amelia Island Plantation.
$$$ | RESORT | This huge resort (1,350 acres) was folded into the Omni hotel chain and transformed by an $85-million renovation and expansion in 2013, including 155 additional oceanfront rooms and stunning oceanfront Beach Club pools. The emphasis is on family-oriented accommodations and activities, including golf courses (54 holes, some oceanfront), 23 Har-Tru tennis courts, and expansive spa facilities. Dining options have expanded to nine, including a private chef’s kitchen, French-style market and deli, and pizzeria. All hotel rooms are oceanfront, with private balconies or patios. If the sound of waves crashing on the beach doesn’t lull you to sleep, the luxurious beds and bedding should do the trick. With ancient oaks, marshes, and lagoons, the resort is also a worthy destination for nature walks, cycling, fishing, and guided kayak tours. Extensive kids’ programs give grown-ups a bit of time to themselves. Villas, which can be rented through the Omni, are privately owned, so availability, amenities, and decor vary. Pros: family-friendly; variety of outdoor activities; shuttle service throughout property; kids’ programs; “green” practices; largest poolscape in Northern Florida. Cons: some facilities require a golf cart or shuttle ride; quality of villas inconsistent. | Rooms from: $349 | 39 Beach Lagoon Rd. | Amelia Island | 904/261–6161, 800/843–6664 | www.omnihotels.com | 404 rooms, more than 300 1-, 2-, and 3-bedroom villas | No meals.
Residence Inn Amelia Island.
$ | HOTEL | Discerning, value-driven travelers love this newer all-suites property for its great location, modern design features, and family-friendly amenities. As one guest put it, “this hotel has everything.” The beach is a short walk away. So are restaurants, though many prefer to prepare meals in their suites (all are equipped with contemporary kitchens). Adjacent to the pool is an outdoor lounge and fire pit, where guests gather for manager receptions featuring complimentary BBQ and drinks. A full breakfast is included, and if you’re in a hurry to walk off the biscuits and gravy, the parking lot serves as an entry point to the hiking trails of scenic Egans Creek Greenway. Spacious suites have an upscale feel, with cozy sitting areas, wood-paneled accent walls, and mood lighting in the bedrooms. Pros: proximity to beach and restaurants; complimentary breakfast; free Wi-Fi; bike rental on property; pet friendly (restrictions). Cons: no on-site restaurant or room service; historic district not within walking distance. | Rooms from: $199 | 2301 Sadler Rd. | 904/277–2440 | www.residenceinnameliaisland.com | 133 suites | Breakfast.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island.
$$$$ | RESORT | Guests know what to expect from the Ritz—elegance, superb comfort, excellent service—and the Amelia Island location is no exception. All accommodations in the eight-story building have balconies and ocean or coastal views; suites and rooms are spacious and luxurious, with beds so comfortable, you’ll need a drag-out call instead of a wake-up one. Public areas are exquisitely maintained, and there are plenty of good restaurants, including the upscale Salt. Room service is available 24/7, and the Club Level provides a personal concierge. Pros: fine-dining restaurant; world-class spa; private beach access; accommodating staff; great programs, activities, and amenities for kids, teens, and families. Cons: resort fee; no self-parking ($20 per day valet); a drive to sites and other restaurants. | Rooms from: $519 | 4750 Amelia Island Pkwy. | 904/277–1100 | www.ritzcarlton.com/ameliaisland | 446 rooms, 50 suites | No meals.
Nightlife
Falcon’s Nest.
The 7,000-square-foot, aviation-themed club in Amelia Island Plantation has a dance floor and outdoor deck. | Omni Amelia Island Plantation, 36 Amelia Village Circle | Amelia Island | 904/277–5166 | www.omnihotels.com/ameliaisland.
Palace Saloon.
Florida’s oldest continuously operating saloon entertained the Rockefellers and Carnegies at the turn of the 20th century but now caters to common folk. When you enter the swinging doors and see the massive mahogany bar, tiled floors, and classic mural-adorned walls, you may feel as if you’ve gone back in time. The Palace also operates a package store, the only one in downtown Fernandina. | 117 Centre St. | 904/491–3332 | www.thepalacesaloon.com.
The Surf Restaurant & Bar.
Locals like to congregate on the outdoor deck here for drinks and good old-fashioned bar food (burgers, wings, nachos). The restaurant has an extensive menu. | 3199 S. Fletcher Ave. | 904/261–5711 | www.thesurfonline.com.
Shopping
Amelia SanJon Gallery.
One of a cluster of “Ash and Third” galleries, the Amelia SanJon offers watercolors, acrylic paintings, fused-glass art, and custom jewelry. | 218-A Ash St. | 904/491–8040 | www.ameliasanjongallery.com.
Book Loft.
Popular for its readings and book signings, this old-fashioned bookstore fits perfectly in an old-fashioned town. In keeping with Fernandina’s emphasis on its pirate heritage, the store includes kid-friendly pirate volumes like The Pirate of Kindergarten and Do Pirates Change Diapers? | 214 Centre St. | 904/261–8991 | www.facebook.com/thebookloftamelia.
Celtic Charm.
In addition to the obvious coffee cup with shamrocks and Irish-blessing plaque, this shop carries wonderful clothing—such as colorful and artistic Bill Baber Scottish sweaters—as well as Galway Irish crystal and Donegal Town Hana Hats. | 310 Centre St. | 904/277–8009 | www.celticcharmamelia.com.
Fantastic Fudge.
Right there in the window, resting in splendor on several marble-topped tables, are huge blocks of fudge just calling your name—enough fudge to put every citizen of the town into a coma—not to mention ice cream (with house-made waffle cones), hand-dipped chocolates, caramel corn, and so on. Indeed, if you hang out at one of the tables in front of this confectionery/ice cream shop, you’ll see just about every kind of person imaginable pause by the door, sigh, and give in to temptation. The service is fast and friendly, and the ice cream is excellent, too. | 218 Centre St. | 904/277–4801 | www.fantasticfudge.com.
Gallery C.
Up a wildly painted staircase, this gallery owned by artist Carol Winner (the “C” in the gallery’s name) displays and sells one-of-a-kind semiprecious jewelry and mixed-media creations, as well as paintings of local nature scenes. | 218-B Ash St. | 904/583–4676 | www.carolwinnerart.com.
Lindy’s Jewelry.
For tasteful jewelry that reflects beach life, Lindy’s is a good place to shop. Those who wish to commemorate their vacations in jewelry may be charmed by the Fernandina Beach and Cumberland Island map charms or fossilized sharks teeth set into earrings and necklaces. | 202 Centre St. | 904/277–4880 | www.lindysjewelry.com.
Sea Jade.
Inside, it’s funny T-shirts and cheap souvenirs; outside, it’s fishnet floats and seashells in all their natural beauty, heaped up in old-fashioned wooden baskets. Whether you want to buy sand dollars or saltwater taffy, if it’s beach related, there’s a good chance you’ll find it here. | 208 Centre St. | 904/277–2977.
Slightly Off Centre Gallery & Gifts.
Just a block off the main drag, this store sells artistic ceramics as well as vivid photographs, paintings, pottery, and metalwork. | 218-C Ash St. | 904/277–1147 | Closed Tues.
Sports and the Outdoors
Horseback Riding
Kelly Seahorse Ranch.
At this concession within the Amelia Island State Park, you can arrange horseback rides on the beach. | Amelia Island State Park, 9500 1st Coast Hwy. | Amelia Island | 904/491–5166 | www.kellyranchinc.net | Closed Mon.
Kayaking
Kayak Amelia.
This outfitter takes adventurous types on guided kayak tours of salt marshes and Fort George River and also rents equipment for those looking to create their own adventures. Reservations are required. | 4 N. 2nd. St. | 904/251–0016 | www.kayakamelia.com.