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Exploring | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife and Performing Arts | Shopping
103 miles east of Panama City, 78 miles northeast of Apalachicola.
Tallahassee is Florida with a Southern accent. It maintains a tranquillity quite different from the sun-and-surf coastal towns. The only Southern capital spared in the Civil War, Tallahassee has preserved its history. Vestiges of the city’s colorful past are found throughout. For example, in the capitol complex, the turn-of-the-20th-century Old Capitol building is strikingly paired with the New Capitol skyscraper.
The canopies of ancient oaks and spring bowers of azaleas line many streets; among the best “canopy roads” are St. Augustine, Miccosukee, Meridian, Old Bainbridge, and Centerville, all dotted with country stores and antebellum plantation houses. Between March and April, flowers bloom, the legislature is in session, and the Springtime Tallahassee festival is in full swing.
Getting Here and Around
Just 14 miles south of the Georgia border and nearer to Atlanta than Miami, Tallahassee is midway between Jacksonville and Pensacola. Tallahassee Regional Airport is served by American, Delta, United Express, and American Airlines. From the airport to downtown is around $20 via City Taxi or Yellow Cab.
Contacts
City Taxi. | 850/562–4222.
Yellow Cab. | 850/575–1022.
Visitor Information
Contacts
Tallahassee Area Convention and Visitors Bureau. | 850/606–2305, 800/628–2866 | www.visittallahassee.com.
Exploring
Downtown
Top Attractions
FAMILY | Challenger Learning Center.
Visitors of all ages can’t help but get excited about math and science exploration at this museum that features a space mission simulator, an IMAX 3D theater, and the Downtown Digital Dome Theatre and Planetarium. Every kid, and kid at heart, can reenact a space mission with The Challenger Learning Center Space Mission Simulator. The next best thing to actual space flight, the simulator features a Mission Control room designed after NASA Johnson Space Center and an orbiting space station modeled after the laboratory on the International Space Station. Hands-on or demonstrational science techniques and equipment can be found throughout the museum. | 200 S. Duval St. | 850/645–7796, 850/644–4629 IMAX | www.challengertlh.com | Planetarium $5, IMAX $6–$8 | Show times vary.
Museum of Florida History.
If you thought Florida was founded by Walt Disney, stop in here. The displays explain the state’s past by highlighting the unique geological and historical events that have shaped the state. Exhibits include a mammoth armadillo grazing in a savanna, the remains of a giant mastodon found in nearby Wakulla Springs, and a dugout canoe that once carried American Indians into Florida’s backwaters. Florida’s history also includes settlements by the Spanish, British, French, and Confederates who fought for possession of the state.
Gold bars, weapons, flags, maps, furniture, steamboats, and other artifacts underscore the fact that although most Americans date the nation to 1776, Florida’s residents were building settlements hundreds of years earlier. If this intrigues you, one floor up is the Florida State Archives and Library, where there’s a treasure trove of government records, manuscripts, photographs, genealogical records, and other materials. TIP It was in these archives that researchers found footage of a young Jim Morrison appearing in a promotional film for Florida’s universities. | 500 S. Bronough St. | 850/245–6400, 850/245–6600 library, 850/245–6700 archives | www.museumoffloridahistory.com | Free | Weekdays 9–4:30, Sat. 10–4:30, Sun. noon–4:30.
New Capitol.
In the 1960s, when there was talk of relocating the capital to a more central location like Orlando, Panhandle legislators got to work and approved the construction of a 22-story skyscraper that would anchor the capital right where it was. It’s perfectly placed at the crest of a hill, sitting prominently behind the low-rise Old Capitol. The governor’s office is on the first floor, along with the Florida Artists Hall of Fame, a series of plaques that pay tribute to Floridians such as Ray Charles, Burt Reynolds, Tennessee Williams, Ernest Hemingway, and Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings.
The House and Senate chambers on the fifth floor provide viewer galleries for when the legislative sessions take place (March to May). Catch a panoramic view of Tallahassee and the surrounding countryside all the way into Georgia from the fabulous 22nd-floor observation deck. Although budget cuts have stopped scheduled guided tours, a free brochure can get you around; if you’re traveling in a group you can call ahead to have a guide usher you. To pick up information about the area, stop at the Florida Visitors Center on the plaza level, and check out the plaque on the north wall facing the elevators. It’s dedicated to Senator Lee Wissenborn “whose valiant effort to move the Capitol to Orlando was the prime motivation for the construction of this building.” | 400 S. Monroe St. | 850/488–6167 | www.myfloridacapitol.com | Free | Visitor center weekdays 8–5.
Old Capitol.
The centerpiece of the capitol complex, this 1842 structure has been added to and subtracted from several times. Having been restored, the jaunty red-and-white-striped awnings and combination gas-electric lights make it look much as it did in 1902. Inside, it houses a must-see museum of Florida’s political history as well as the old Supreme Court chambers and Senate Gallery—a very interesting peek into the past. | S. Monroe St. at Apalachee Pkwy. | 850/487–1902 | Free | Self-guided tours weekdays 9–4:30, Sat. 10–4:30, Sun. noon–4:30; call for guided tours.
Worth Noting
Meginnis-Monroe House.
This house served as a field hospital during the Civil War and is now the home of the LeMoyne Center for the Visual Arts. | 125 N. Gadsden St. | www.lemoyne.org | Free | Tues.–Sat. 10–5.
Away from Downtown
Top Attractions
Alfred B. Maclay Gardens State Park.
Starting in December, the grounds at this 1,200-acre estate are afire with azaleas, dogwood, Oriental magnolias, spring bulbs of tulips and irises, banana shrubs, honeysuckle, silverbell trees, pansies, and camellias. Allow half a day to wander past the reflecting pool into the tiny walled garden and around the lakes and woodlands. The Maclay residence (open January through April) is furnished as it was in the 1920s; picnic areas, gardens, and swimming and boating facilities are open to the public. | 3540 Thomasville Rd. | 850/487–4556 | www.floridastateparks.org/maclaygardens | $6 per vehicle, up to 8 people; garden extra $6 per person Jan.–Apr. (blooming season), free rest of yr | Daily 8–sunset.
Fodor’s Choice | Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park.
Known for having one of the deepest springs in the world, this very picturesque and highly recommended park remains relatively untouched, retaining the wild and exotic look it had in the 1930s, when the films Tarzan and Creature from the Black Lagoon were shot here. Even if they weren’t, you’d want to come here and see what Florida really looks like. Beyond the lodge is the spring where glass-bottom boats set off deep into the lush, jungle-lined waterways to catch glimpses of alligators, snakes, nesting limpkins, and other waterfowl. It costs $50 to rent a pontoon boat and go it alone—it may be worth it since an underground river flows into a pool so clear you can see the bottom more than 100 feet below. The park is 15 miles south of Tallahassee on Route 61. If you can’t pull yourself away from this idyllic spot, spend the night in the 1930s Spanish Mediterranean–style lodge. | 550 Wakulla Park Dr. | Wakulla Springs | 850/926–0700 | www.floridastateparks.org/wakullasprings | $6 per vehicle, up to 8 people; boat tour $8 | Daily 8–sunset; boat tours daily 9:30–4:30.
Mission San Luis Archaeological and Historic Site.
Long before New England’s residents began gaining a foothold in North America, the native Apalachee Indians as well as Spanish missionaries settled here. On the site of a 17th-century Spanish mission and Apalachee Indian town, this museum focuses on the archaeology of the late 1600s, when the Apalachee village here had a population of at least 1,400. By 1704, however, threatened by Creek Indians and British forces, the locals burned the village and fled. About once a year, researchers conduct digs, and then they spend the rest of the year analyzing their findings. If you’re here when they are, you can watch them dig. Otherwise, you’ll have to be content with roaming around the re-creation of a 17th-century Spanish village and speaking with the living-history guides, who offer tours by advance arrangement. Even without seeing researchers digging for clues, this is still a cool experience and a great way to learn about Florida’s impressive history. A 24,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art visitor center offers an expanded exhibit hall and gift shop. | 2100 W. Tennessee St. | 850/245–6406 | www.missionsanluis.org | $5 | Tues.–Sun. 10–4.
St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge and Lighthouse.
As its name suggests, this attraction is of both natural and historical interest. Natural salt marshes, tidal flats, and freshwater pools used by early natives set the stage for the once-powerful Fort San Marcos de Apalache, which was built nearby in 1639. Stones salvaged from the fort were used in the lighthouse, which is still in operation. In winter the 100,000-acre-plus refuge on the shores of Apalachee Bay is the resting place for thousands of migratory birds of more than 300 species, but the alligators seem to like it year-round (keep your camera ready). The visitor center has information on more than 75 miles of marked trails. Hardwood swamps and pine woodlands also provide habitat for wood ducks, black bears, otters, raccoons, deer, armadillos, coyotes, feral hogs, fox squirrels, gopher tortoises, and woodpeckers. Twenty-five miles south of Tallahassee, the refuge can be reached via Route 363. | 1255 Lighthouse Rd. | St. Marks | 850/925–6121 | saintmarks.fws.gov | $5 per vehicle | Refuge daily sunrise–sunset; visitor center weekdays 8–4, weekends 10–5.
Worth Noting
Lake Jackson Mounds Archaeological State Park.
While the waters here can make bass anglers weep, the real find are the half-dozen temple mounds (and one possible burial mound), the largest of which is nearly 300 feet square at its base and 35 feet high. Inside these mounds, archaeologists have found pre-Columbian artifacts including jewelry, copper breastplates, and cloaks. Also on the site are the ruins of an early-19th-century plantation built by Colonel Robert Butler, adjutant to General Andrew Jackson during the siege of New Orleans. | 3600 Indian Mounds Rd. | 850/922–6007 | $3 | Daily 8–sunset.
FAMILY | Tallahassee Museum.
Not exactly a museum, this is really an expansive, bucolic park that showcases a peaceful and intriguing look at Old Florida, located about 20 minutes from downtown. The theme and presentation here is of a working 1880s pioneer farm that offers daily hands-on activities for children, such as soap-making and blacksmithing. A boardwalk meanders through the 52 acres of natural habitat that make up the zoo, which has such varied animals as panthers, bobcats, white-tailed deer, bald eagles, red wolves, hawks, owls, otters, and black bears—many of which were brought here injured or orphaned. Also on-site are nature trails, a one-room schoolhouse dating from 1897, and an 1840s Southern plantation manor, where you can usually find someone cooking on weekends. It’s peaceful, pleasing, and educational. | 3945 Museum Dr. | 850/575–8684 | www.tallahasseemuseum.org | $7.50 | Mon.–Sat. 9–5, Sun. 11–5.
Where to Eat
Andrew’s 228.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Part of a smart complex in the heart of the political district, this two-story “urban Tuscan villa” (contradiction noted) is the latest of owner Andy Reiss’s restaurant incarnations to occupy the same space (the last was Andrew’s Second Act). Leaning toward upscale, the menu includes a range of chicken, steak, pasta, and fish dishes such as grouper picatta, pesto salmon, wild-mushroom risotto, chicken marsala, and double-cut pork chops. If you’re so inclined, try the specialty $6 martini. | Average main: $26 | 228 S. Adams St. | 850/222–3444 | www.andrewsdowntown.com | Closed Sun. No lunch.
Avenue Eat and Drink.
$$$ | SOUTHERN | Elegant yet unpretentious, this cozy restaurant offers an eclectic mix of Southern fusion food that delights taste buds in small bites and larger plates. You can’t go wrong with tuna two ways or the melt-in-your-mouth boneless short ribs served with mashed parsnip and potatoes with a rosemary-Cabernet reduction. There is an extensive wine selection and a specialty martini menu. | Average main: $28 | 115 E. Park Ave. | 850/224–0115 | www.avenueeatanddrink.com.
Decent Pizza.
$$ | PIZZA | The name is terribly modest—the pizza here is much more than decent, and the prices are more than reasonable. A couple of Florida State University grads opened this simple pizzeria, which became an instant hit with those on an undergraduate budget: slices and salads start at $4 each, and at $1.25 each, the 9-ounce draft beers are cheaper than sodas. Choose from more than 30 toppings for regular red-sauce, pesto, or white pies. | Average main: $19 | 1026 N. Monroe St. | 850/222–6400 | www.decent-pizza.com | Reservations not accepted.
Hopkins’ Eatery.
$ | AMERICAN | Locals in the know flock here for superb salads, homemade soups, and sandwiches—expect a short wait at lunchtime—via simple counter service. Kids like the traditional peanut butter–and-jelly sandwich (with bananas and sprouts, if they dare); adults might opt for a chunky chicken melt, smothered beef, or garden vegetarian sub. The spearmint iced tea is a must-have, as is a slice of freshly baked chocolate cake. A second location on North Monroe Street offers the same menu; a third location has also opened at 1208 Capital Circle SE. | Average main: $6 | 1415 Market St. | 850/668–0311 | www.hopkinseatery.com | Closed Sun. No dinner Sat.
Kool Beanz Café.
$$ | CARIBBEAN | The cuisine is as eclectic and cozy as the atmosphere at this Tallahassee staple, loved by locals and visitors alike. The decor is part of the charm, with a vibrant setting of dark pastels and modern art. The menu changes daily but typically includes seafood and vegetables served island-style. For a real treat, try brunch. | Average main: $20 | 921 Thomasville Rd. | 850/224–2466 | www.kool-beanz.com.
Where to Stay
Aloft Tallahassee Downtown.
$$ | HOTEL | This urban-chic hotel provides the tree-lined downtown district with a bit of trendy fun courtesy of loft-style rooms with bright, minimalist decor. The hotel encourages travelers to get social in the w xyz bar, which buzzes after dark, or around the pool table in the re:mix lounge. Guest rooms are on the small side but have great amenities for the techie—a plug-and-play connectivity station and complimentary Wi-Fi—as well as bathrooms with overhead showerheads. Pros: convenient to downtown, universities, and nightlife/restaurants. Cons: small, utilitarian rooms; lobby can get packed from the bar on weekend nights. | Rooms from: $139 | 200 N. Monroe St. | 850/513–0313, 866/513–0313 | 162 rooms | No meals.
Governors Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Only a block from the capitol, this plushly restored historic warehouse is abuzz during the week with politicians, press, and lobbyists. It’s a perfect location for business travelers and, on weekends, tourists who want to visit downtown. Rooms are a rich blend of brass, mahogany, and classic prints. The Governor offers a welcome reception and a complimentary breakfast, and it was seen in the HBO movie Recount about Florida’s goofball handling of the 2000 election. Pros: well run and well placed, a few steps from museums, restaurants, and the capitol; the rooms and lobby are warm and inviting. Cons: during session and football season, the district can get crowded and busy, and accessing the area may be a challenge. | Rooms from: $169 | 209 S. Adams St. | 850/681–6855 | www.thegovinn.com | 41 rooms, 8 suites | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Hotel Duval.
$$ | HOTEL | This boutique hotel, a renovated version of the landmark build in 1951, sets a high standard for small luxury hotels in the capital. Far from cookie-cutter, the hotel offers a modern mood-ring concept in which you can choose from six floors, each with its own color theme. Sleek, contemporary guest rooms have the latest technology, and showers’ pebbled floors and rainshower heads provide a sense of luxury. Dining at LeRoc and Shula’s 347 Grill is a treat, and the hotel’s unusual meeting spaces include a rooftop ballroom next to the hotel’s signature bar, the Level 8 Lounge. The hotel belongs to Marriott’s “Autograph Collection” of independent luxury hotels. Pros: top-level amenities; good restaurants. Cons: not suited to families; small rooms. | Rooms from: $109 | 415 N. Monroe St. | 850/224–6000 | www.hotelduval.com | 108 rooms, 9 suites | No meals.
Nightlife and Performing Arts
There are endless options for after-dark entertainment for Tallahassee’s government and university populations. When you’re in town, be sure to check the college newspapers for the latest developments.
Florida State University.
If you’re too shy to crash a frat party, FSU might just offer a more civilized evening out. It hosts more than 400 concerts and recitals annually in year-round performances by its School of Music, and many productions by its School of Theatre. | 850/645–7949 School of Music, 850/644–6500 School of Theatre | www.music.fsu.edu.
Level 8 Lounge.
This rooftop lounge oozes a sleek, chic sophistication that matches the boutique hotel to which it’s attached. Enjoy panoramic views of the capital city while you sip a drink from the custom drink menu (try the Cougarita) or nibble on small bites from the bar menu. | Hotel Duval, 415 N. Monroe St. | 850/224–6000 | hotelduval.com.
The Moon.
For decades, this has been one of the capital city’s most active nightclubs, capable of changing its music to suit the tastes of the new students attending FSU. Live bands and DJs have kept this club going since 1985 and will likely sustain its collegiate appeal for years to come. | 1105 E. Lafayette St. | 850/878–6900, 850/222–6666 event line | tallahassee.moonevents.com.
Tallahassee Symphony Orchestra.
Concerts and events are held throughout the year; enjoy pre-concert lectures with composers as well as a variety of productions. Most concerts are held at Florida State University. | 850/224–0461 | www.tallahasseesymphony.org.
Theatre Tallahassee.
This theater has a six-production season that runs from September through June. | 1861 Thomasville Rd. | 850/224–8474 | theatretallahassee.org.
Waterworks.
With its retro-chic tiki-bar fittings, Waterworks attracts the college art crowd, jazz fans, and hipsters of all ages for cocktails and DJ-spun dance music. On Friday night there’s a banjo player, a retro-cool treat. | 1133 Thomasville Rd. | 850/224–1887 | www.waterworkstallahassee.com.
Shopping
Market District.
Hop off I–10 at Exit 203 to head to this shopping and dining district filled with locally owned specialty shops, salons, cafés, and restaurants. My Favorite Things and Cotton Colors are popular, as are many other stores scattered around the area in smaller enclaves. Not to worry, though—most are within walking distance of one another. The Market District is the place for a taste of true local culture. It’s slightly west of Thomasville Road at the intersection of Timberline Road and Market Street. | Timberline Rd. at Market St. | www.themarketdistricttallahassee.com.
Midtown District.
This area mixes a little bit of Southern charm with city chic, offering everything from the stylish and cutting-edge fashions of Cole Couture and Divas and Devils to luxury beauty and spa services at Kanvas. Shops adorn the sides of North Monroe Street heading toward downtown, as well as some of the side streets. If you get hungry picking up purchases, try the delicious treats at Lucy & Leo’s Cupcakery, featured on Cupcake Wars. | Between North Moore St. and Thomasville Rd., between W. 7th Ave. and W. 4th Ave.