Chapter 7

Pancakes and Preserves

Swedish Pancakes (Plättar)

Finnish Oven-Baked Pancake (Pannakakku)

Åland Semolina Pancake

Åland Prune Cream

Rhubarb Jam

Gotland Saffron Pancake (Saffranspannkaka)

Danish Aebleskiver

Icelandic Crepes (Pönnukaka)

Swedish Potato Pancakes with Pork (Raggmunk med Fläsk)

Blueberry Spelt Pancakes

Waffles with Gjetost and Lingonberry Jam

Savory Potato Waffles

Barley Nut Waffle Bread

Chocolate Waffles

Lingonberry Jam

Gooseberry Jam

Swedish Pancakes (Plättar)

Swedish pancakes, or plättar, are probably the origin of American “silver dollar” pancakes. Thin and delicate, plättar are best prepared with a special plett pan, although you can certainly use a griddle or frying pan for equally tasty results.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 10

4 cups milk

2 eggs

2 cups all-purpose or spelt flour

12 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 tablespoons melted butter

 

1. Whisk together all ingredients except for the butter. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2. Heat a cast-iron plett pan over medium heat until a drop of water sizzles on the surface. Using a pastry brush, grease each well of the pan with the melted butter; whisk remaining butter into the pancake batter.

3. Pour batter by tablespoons into each well. Fry until golden, flipping once.

4. Serve with lingonberry preserves and whipped cream.

Finnish Oven-Baked Pancake (Pannakakku)

Try making pancakes the way the Finns do: baked in the oven. The basic batter requires an easy ratio of 1 egg to 14 cup flour to 14 cup milk; you can make the pancake sweet or savory by adding things like diced ham, chicken, blanched vegetables, fruit, lemon zest, or vanilla.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

6 eggs

112 cups milk

112 cups flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons melted butter

 

1. Whisk together the eggs, milk, flour, sugar, and salt. Allow to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, place butter in a large oven-proof frying pan. Place in a cold oven, then preheat oven to 450°F. Once oven reaches heat, remove frying pan and swirl gently so that the melted butter covers all surfaces.

3. Pour batter in prepared frying pan and return it to the oven. Cook 15–20 minutes, until pancake is puffed and golden.

4. Serve with plum jam, fresh berries, or fruit compote with whipped cream on the side.

Åland Semolina Pancake

Åland, an autonomous archipelago off the coast of Finland, is famous for this pancake. It’s commonly served with whipped cream and Åland Prune Cream (see recipe in this chapter).

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 8

4 cups milk

112 cups semolina (cream of wheat)

4 eggs

12 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup flour

14 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground cardamom

Whipped cream to taste

Rice Porridge

Leftover rice porridge is also sometimes used as the base for the Åland pancake. If you prefer rice, substitute 1 cup of pearl rice for the semolina and increase the cooking time for the porridge to 30 minutes, or until the rice is tender.

 

1. In a large saucepan, bring milk to a simmer; add semolina in a thin stream, whisking steadily to remove all lumps. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until porridge thickens, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely.

2. Preheat oven to 395°F. Beat together the eggs, sugar, and vanilla until they’re frothy. Stir in the flour, salt, cardamom, and cooled porridge.

3. Pour batter into a 12 × 9 greased baking dish and bake until firm and golden brown, about 40 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly.

4. Slice pancake into individual servings and top with whipped cream to taste, or with Åland Prune Cream.

Åland Prune Cream

Prunes—dried plums—are a favorite accompaniment for Scandinavian cakes and pancakes. Here they come into their own in a rich, cinnamon-scented “cream.”

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 3 CUPS

15 pitted prunes (dried plums), cut in quarters

4 cups water

1 cup prune juice

1 cinnamon stick

12 cup sugar

2 tablespoons potato starch flour or cornstarch plus 3 tablespoons water

 

1. Soak chopped prunes in water for 1 hour. After soaking, transfer to a large saucepan, add prune juice and cinnamon stick, and bring mixture to a low boil. Add sugar, stirring until it dissolves. Temporarily remove pot from heat.

2. Whisk together flour and water, then stir into the prune mixture. Return the pot to the burner and bring to a boil once again, stirring constantly. As soon as mixture begins to thicken, turn off the heat.

3. Remove from burner, discard cinnamon stick, and allow to cool before serving with Åland Semolina Pancake (see recipe in this chapter).

Rhubarb Jam

Rhubarb jam is a staple in Icelandic households, where it doubles as a fabulous filling for the secret to family bliss, “happy marriage cake” (hjónabandssæla).

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 3 CUPS

6 cups bright red rhubarb stalks

3 cups sugar

 

1. Clean the rhubarb stalks of all toxic leaves and cut into a 14 dice. Place in a glass bowl or measuring cup, stir in sugar, and place bowl in the refrigerator overnight so the sugar can draw out the rhubarb’s natural juices.

2. In the morning, transfer the rhubarb and its juices to a large nonreactive saucepan (stainless steel or enamel). Bring the rhubarb to a boil over high heat, then immediately reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour, stirring every so often to prevent sticking.

3. Cool and either preserve in hot jars or refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.

Gotland Saffron Pancake (Saffranspannkaka)

Actually more of a baked porridge casserole than a “pancake,” Gotland’s saffranspannkaka is lovely when served with blackberry or marionberry jam.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 4

112 cups water

1 tablespoon butter

12 teaspoon salt

1 cup sweet, short-grain rice (Jasmine or pearl)

412 cups milk

14 teaspoon saffron threads (or 18 teaspoon powdered saffron)

2 tablespoons sugar

12 cup blanched almonds, chopped

5 eggs

 

1. In a medium saucepan, mix water, butter, and salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Steadily pour in rice, stirring constantly. Reduce to low, cover pot, and simmer for 15 minutes, or until most of the water has been absorbed (at this point, stir occasionally to prevent sticking).

2. Whisk milk into the porridge, bring to a boil, then reduce heat again to low. Cover pot and simmer, undisturbed, for 30 minutes.

3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Using a mortar and pestle, muddle the saffron into the sugar, then stir the mixture, along with the chopped almonds, into the rice porridge.

4. Beat eggs together, then stir into porridge. Pour into a 12 × 9 greased baking dish, place in oven, and cook for 40 minutes. Serve warm.

Danish Aebleskiver

Prepared in a special aebleskiver pan, Denmark’s spherical pancake balls are the popcorn of the pancake spectrum. One great source for aebleskiver pans and for an excellent prepared mix is Aunt Else’s Æbleskiver; check out the website, www.auntelse.com, to watch a detailed video on how to do the tricky aebleskiver flip.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

2 eggs

1 tablespoon sugar

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)

1 teaspoon baking powder

112 cups buttermilk

Canola oil, as needed

Danish Apple Slices

The word aebleskiver means “apple slice,” since it’s common to insert a small piece of apple into the center of each pancake ball. If using apples, dice them coarsely and simply drop them on top of the batter before you first turn each pancake ball; the apple chunks will sink into the centers and bake quite happily there.

 

1. Separate the eggs and beat the whites until stiff peaks form. Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar, then in a separate bowl sift together the flour, cinnamon, and baking powder.

2. Gradually mix the flour mixture and buttermilk, in alternating 12-cup additions, into the egg yolks. Then, using a light hand, fold the egg whites into the batter.

3. Pour about 12 teaspoon oil into each well of your aebleskiver pan, then place over a medium burner. Heat pan for 15 minutes, then use a pastry brush to spread the oil across the wells and top surface of the pan.

4. Spoon the batter into the wells, filling to just below the top of each well (the pastries will expand).

5. You’ll need to make 3 one-quarter turns to form the balls into perfect spheres. After the edges of each ball have begun to brown and pull away from the sides, use a knitting needle or skewer to gently slide the aebleskiver up in a quarter-turn. After a minute or two, push the needle into the top corner you’ve created and slide it around in a 90-degree quarter-turn. Finally, stick the needle into the back of the cooked part and flip it completely over. You’ll know it’s done when you insert the needle into the center of the pastry and it comes out clean.

6. Remove from pan and serve warm with raspberry jam and powdered sugar.

Icelandic Crepes (Pönnukaka)

Paper-thin Icelandic pönnukaka, filled with jam and cream and folded into quarters, are often served as a treat with late-afternoon coffee.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 8

14 cup butter

3 eggs

3 cups milk

2 tablespoons sugar

2 cups flour

12 teaspoon baking powder

14 teaspoon baking soda

14 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground cardamom

Lingonberry Jam or Rhubarb Jam (see recipes in this chapter) or blueberry jam to taste

Whipped cream to taste

Scandinavian Pancake Pans

In Scandinavia, every pancake has its own special pan. The Swedes have the flat plett pan, the Danes use aebelskiver pans, and the Icelanders swear by their own particular crepe pan—a heavy, 712" flat pan with a raised 18" edge.

 

1. Place butter in a large crepe pan or 8 skillet and melt over medium heat, swirling the pan to make sure all surfaces are greased. Remove from burner and allow butter to cool.

2. In a large bowl, vigorously whisk together the eggs, milk, and sugar. Sift together the dry ingredients in a separate bowl, then slowly incorporate them into the batter until it has the consistency of heavy cream. Stir in the cooled butter.

3. Return greased crepe pan to the burner and heat at medium-high until a drop of water sizzles on the surface.

4. Place a generous tablespoon of batter on the pan, rotating the pan back and forth until the batter covers the surface evenly. When the bottom of the crepe has browned, use a spatula to flip the crepe over. Cook just until the underside is browned (about 1 minute); remove from pan.

5. If your first crepe is too dark, breathe deeply and sacrifice it to the Norse gods; the first crepe is often overdone because it absorbs any excess butter on the pan. With the pan thus readied, the rest of your crepes should be fine.

6. To serve, spread crepes with jam, spoon a dollop of cream in one quarter, then fold twice into triangles.

Swedish Potato Pancakes with Pork (Raggmunk med Fläsk)

When cooking dishes like potato pancakes or potato bread (lefse), it’s best to use the oldest, mealiest potatoes you can find; fresh young potatoes contain too much water to work well. The Swedes serve potato pancakes as a comforting evening meal, with fried pork and sweetened lingonberries.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

12 slices thick bacon (preferably unsmoked) or salt pork

2 pounds Idaho russet potatoes

1 cup milk

1 egg

12 cup flour

2 teaspoons salt

 

1. Fry the bacon in a heavy skillet until crisp. Remove to a warm plate, and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of bacon fat.

2. Peel and coarsely grate the potatoes, then place them in a sturdy paper towel and squeeze out any excess water.

3. Whisk together the milk, egg, flour, and salt; fold the grated potatoes into the batter.

4. Increase the burner under the frying pan to medium-high heat. Use a 13-cup measuring scoop to transfer batter to the pan; use the bottom of the cup to flatten each pancake slightly to a 3 diameter. Fry until both sides are golden, a few minutes on each side.

5. Serve with bacon and with fresh or frozen lingonberries sweetened with a little sugar.

Blueberry Spelt Pancakes

Blueberries thrive in Nordic climes, and are a valuable source of antioxidants, vitamin C, manganese, and dietary fiber. Combine them with equally nutritious spelt flour to create what just may be the healthiest pancakes on the planet.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 4–6

3 eggs

134 cups buttermilk

1 cup all-purpose flour

4 cups spelt flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

12 teaspoon baking soda

12 teaspoon salt

112 cups blueberries (wild ones if available)

 

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and buttermilk. In a separate bowl, sift together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; combine with the buttermilk mixture into a thick batter. Fold in blueberries.

2. Prepare a griddle or frying pan with cooking spray; bring to heat over a medium burner. Use a serving spoon to drop generous dollops of batter onto the griddle. Cook, turning only once (turning pancakes more than once makes them tough).

3. Serve warm, accompanied with additional blueberries and powdered sugar.

Waffles with Gjetost and Lingonberry Jam

Norway’s own gjetost cheese melts beautifully on freshly baked cardamom waffles. For the prettiest results, use a heart-shaped Scandinavian waffle iron.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 10

4 eggs

112 cups milk

14 cup sugar

1 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

12 teaspoon baking soda

12 teaspoon melted butter

1 block Ski Queen gjetost cheese

12 cup lingonberry jam

 

1. In a medium bowl, combine the eggs with the milk, sugar, and cardamom. Sift together the dry ingredients in a separate bowl, then add them to the mixture, stirring strongly until the batter is smooth. Allow the batter to sit and swell at room temperature for at least 30 minutes (overnight in the refrigerator is even better).

2. Coat your waffle iron with cooking spray and bring it to heat. Bake waffles according to your iron’s specifications.

3. Use a cheese slicer to shave thin curls of gjetost cheese. Place the cheese immediately on top of each waffle and crown with a spoonful of lingonberry jam.

Savory Potato Waffles

A popular concession at soccer games in the Norwegian county of Østfold is potetvafler med pølse—potato waffles with sausage. Long, grilled hot dog–style sausages are tucked into potato waffles and topped with ketchup, mustard, and relish.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 10

4 eggs

4 cups milk

3 tablespoons melted butter, at room temperature

5 dry, mealy baking potatoes (Idaho potatoes work beautifully)

212 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

Potato Waffle Starters

If you have a heart-shaped waffle iron, separate the fried potato waffles into individual hearts and use them as you would buckwheat blini—topped with sour cream and caviar. Other suggestions: serve them as Norwegians often do, topped with salad greens and crispy bacon, or draw your inspiration from your favorite baked-potato toppers.

 

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, and melted butter.

2. Peel and finely grate the potatoes (or use a food processor to grind them finely). Place them in a colander lined with a paper towel and press all excess water out of them; transfer them to the mixing bowl.

3. Stir the flour, salt, and baking powder into the batter. Allow to sit on the counter at room temperature for at least 20 minutes.

4. Grease your waffle iron and fry waffles as directed by the manufacturer, flipping once.

5. Serve warm with bacon, or save and use as a wrap for Norwegian pølse (hot dogs).

Barley Nut Waffle Bread

Savory and heartier than sweet dessert waffles, barley-nut waffle bread provides a delicious and unique base for open-faced sandwiches.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 8

4 cups milk

3 eggs

4 tablespoons melted butter, at room temperature

112 cups all-purpose flour

212 cups barley flour

1 cup cooked barley

12 cup walnuts, finely chopped

12 teaspoon salt

12 teaspoon baking powder

 

1. In a large mixing bowl, beat together the milk, eggs, and melted butter. Stir in the all-purpose and barley flours, cooked barley, walnuts, salt, and baking powder. Allow to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2. Grease and heat your waffle iron according to the manufacturer’s directions. Bake the waffles until well browned, flipping once (keep in mind that the barley batter may take longer to cook than batters made from all-purpose flour).

3. Serve topped with your favorite spreads, cheese, or cold cuts.

Chocolate Waffles

Dessert waffles are never better than when made using a high-quality European cocoa!

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 10

4 cups milk

2 eggs

3 tablespoons melted butter, at room temperature

3 teaspoons confectioner’s sugar

3 teaspoons vanilla sugar

112 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

12 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons European cocoa powder

 

1. In a large bowl, cream together the milk, eggs, melted butter, confectioner’s sugar, and vanilla sugar.

2. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and cocoa powder. Add to the waffle batter in 12-cup increments, beating well with each addition. Allow batter to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

3. Grease and preheat your waffle iron. Pour batter by tablespoons into each well. Fry until the waffles are baked through, flipping once.

4. Dust with additional confectioner’s sugar and serve warm with whipped cream and fruit.

Lingonberry Jam

Lingonberries are a true delight. Less than half the size of cranberries, they possess a delicate, refreshing tartness that’s ideal for making jam that pair remarkably well with both baked goods and meats.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 212 CUPS

4 cups fresh or frozen lingonberries

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

 

1. Rinse off the lingonberries and drain them, then transfer them to a medium saucepan filled with 1 cup water.

5. Bring the berries to a boil, lower heat to medium-low, and simmer for around 15 minutes. Once the berries begin to pop, remove from heat.

4. Stir in up to 1 cup of sugar, to your preference for sweetness.

5. Store jam in the refrigerator (where it will keep for months).

Gooseberry Jam

Gooseberry bushes adore cold weather and rocky soil, and thus are easy to find in Scandinavia. Use the jam not only on toast and baked goods but also as a unique topping for ice cream.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 2 CUPS

112 pounds gooseberries

1 cup water

3 tablespoons lemon juice

4 cups sugar

 

1. Wash the gooseberries well and pick through them, removing all flower tops and stems.

2. Place gooseberries with water and lemon juice in a large nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes, until the berries start to burst.

3. Stir in sugar, bring the pot to a steady boil, and, stirring constantly, cook the jam for 5 more minutes until it gels. Remove from heat and either preserve in hot jars or store in the refrigerator.