Chapter 12

Cold Water Fish and Seafood

Poached Salmon with Green Sauce

Salmon Loaf with Marinated Cucumber Sauce

Fish Stock

Seafood Au Gratin

Crispy Codfish Balls (Torskeboller)

SAVU Smoked Salmon with Potatoes and Garlic

Smoked Trout with Summer Vegetables

Grilled Trout with Minted Nettle Sauce

Boiled Crayfish (Kräftor) with Dill

Butter-Braised Halibut with Saffron

Salt Baked Salmon

Baked Salmon with Caviar Cream in Puff Pastry

Nordic Fish Pizza

Norwegian Fish Pudding (Fiskepudding)

Shrimp Sauce

Fish Dumplings (Fiskefarse) with Curry Sauce

Poached Salmon with Green Sauce

Enhance the subtlety of lightly poached salmon with a fragrant and refreshing dill sauce.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

5 cloves garlic, peeled

14 rounded cup chopped walnuts

5 cups fresh dill, coarsely chopped

Zest of 1 large lemon

1 teaspoon salt

34 cup canola oil

4 cups water

13 cup white wine vinegar

1 medium onion, chopped

12 teaspoon white peppercorns

12 teaspoon mustard seed

1 teaspoon dill seed

3 bay leaves

6 (6-ounce) salmon fillets

Salmon: The Wonder Fish

The health benefits of salmon—rich in protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and vitamin D—is justly praised. Excellent for lowering bad LDL cholesterol while raising good HDL cholesterol, salmon promotes heart health, stabilizes blood-sugar levels, helps prevent blood clots, improves memory, and is a natural antidepressant. It may also help to stave off Parkinson’s disease and Alzheimer’s disease. All this and salmon tastes good, too! Try to enjoy it at least twice a week as part of your Nordic diet.

 

1. For the green sauce, combine the garlic cloves and the walnuts in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Add the fresh dill, lemon zest, and salt; process into a thick paste. Add the oil in a steady stream, until the sauce has the consistency of a thick tomato sauce. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

2. To poach the salmon, combine the water, white wine vinegar, onion, peppercorns, mustard seed, dill seed, and bay leaves in a large frying pan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes.

3. Reduce the heat from a boil to a steady simmer, then slide the salmon fillets into the water. Cover and poach for 8–10 minutes, just until the salmon starts to flake.

4. Transfer the fillets briefly to a paper towel–lined plate and pat dry, then place them on warmed plates or a platter and drizzle the green sauce on top. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve.

Salmon Loaf with Marinated Cucumber Sauce

To make marinated cucumbers, just follow the recipe for Norwegian Cucumber Salad (Agurksalat) in Chapter 4.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

1 (14.75-ounce) can red salmon, undrained

5 eggs, beaten

23 cup cracker crumbs or bread crumbs

2 tablespoons onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons celery, finely chopped

Zest and juice of 1 small lemon

12 teaspoon salt

14 teaspoon white pepper

1 cup sour cream or crème fraîche

1 cup marinated cucumbers from Norwegian Cucumber Salad (Agurksalat; see Chapter 4), roughly chopped

2 teaspoons fresh dill, finely chopped

 

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Gently fold together the salmon, eggs, cracker crumbs, onion, celery, lemon juice and zest, salt, and white pepper. Transfer the mixture to a greased loaf pan.

2. Bake on the center rack for 40 minutes or until browned.

3. As the salmon loaf bakes, stir together the sour cream, chopped marinated cucumbers, and dill. Refrigerate.

4. To serve, slice the warm salmon loaf and drizzle with the chilled cucumber sauce.

Fish Stock

Fish stock is a key element in intensifying the depth of flavor of many seafood casseroles, soups, and entrées. Use white-fleshed fish remnants rather than the oilier salmon to ensure a delicate stock.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 8 CUPS

5 pounds white-fleshed fish heads, bones, and roe (do not use the gills or intestines)

8 cups cold water

1 cup dry white wine

1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 celery rib, coarsely chopped

6 fresh dill sprigs

10 white peppercorns

2 bay leaves

 

1. Stir together all of the ingredients in a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a steady simmer and cook for 30 minutes, skimming off the froth as it rises to the surface.

2. Use a slotted spoon to remove the largest fish remnants and the vegetables from the pot; discard. Allow stock to cool.

3. Line a colander with two layers of cheesecloth and strain the stock into a large bowl to ensure that all fish bones and solids are removed.

4. Refrigerate homemade fish stock and use within 48 hours, or freeze for up to 3 months.

Seafood Au Gratin

Be sure to use homemade fish stock in this casserole fit for company, a dish that proves just how sophisticated “comfort food” can be.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6–8

5 pounds white fish fillets (sole, cod, halibut, or flounder)

1 teaspoon salt

14 teaspoon white pepper

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

4 tablespoons butter, divided use

3 tablespoons flour

1 cup Fish Stock (see recipe in this chapter)

1 cup half-and-half

12 cup fresh dill, finely chopped

1 tablespoon lemon zest

3 cups mashed potatoes (homemade, not instant)

3 tablespoons grated Jarlsberg or Våsterbotten cheese

1 cup cooked and peeled bay (tiny) shrimp

 

1. Preheat oven to 425ºF. Make sure that all bones have been removed from the fish fillets, then season with salt and pepper. Place in a buttered 9 × 13 casserole dish, sprinkle with lemon juice, and dot with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Bake on center rack for 15 minutes.

2. Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in a medium saucepan at medium heat. When the butter turns frothy, stir in the flour to make a creamy roux. Once the flour is incorporated, whisk in the fish stock in a steady stream, followed by the half-and-half. Add the chopped dill and lemon zest; season with additional salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 10 minutes or until warmed through, stirring occasionally.

3. Remove the casserole dish from the oven and increase heat to 475ºF.

4. Pipe the mashed potatoes around the edges of the casserole dish, then pour the sauce over the center of the casserole. Sprinkle with grated cheese, then return to the oven and bake until browned, 10–15 minutes.

5. Garnish with the shrimp and additional fresh dill before serving.

Crispy Codfish Balls (Torskeboller)

There’s no better way to use one of Scandinavia’s primary exports—dried salt cod—than in these crunchy codfish balls. Your kids will eat them like tater tots!

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 4

1 pound dried salt cod

3 large potatoes

1 clove garlic, finely pressed

1 teaspoon dried dill

12 teaspoon lemon zest

4 egg whites

Canola oil for frying

Dill-Garlic Mayonnaise

To make a fast, no-fuss Dill-Garlic Mayonnaise, whisk together 1 cup of your favorite mayonnaise with 1–2 teaspoons of dried lemon-dill seasoning (to taste) and 1–2 cloves pressed garlic.

 

1. Rinse the salt cod well and cut into 2-long pieces. Cover with cold water and soak for at least 24 hours and up to 3 days, replacing the water every 6 hours.

2. Peel the potatoes, roughly dice, and boil until tender. Drain, rinse with cold water, and then press through a potato ricer or use a masher to pound them into a smooth purée.

3. Pat the cod dry with paper towels, then shred it into tiny pieces with your fingers. Mix it into the potatoes, then stir in the remaining ingredients, except oil. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

4. Flour your hands and pat the batter into walnut-sized balls.

5. Add enough oil to a heavy pot or deep-fryer to fill to a depth of 3. Heat the oil until a drop of water sizzles when dropped in the pot. Carefully fry the codfish balls, 3–5 at a time, for 3 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels.

6. Serve warm, with Dill-Garlic Mayonnaise (see sidebar recipe).

SAVU Smoked Salmon with Potatoes and Garlic

Trust it to the ingenious Finns to develop the easiest way in the world to smoke salmon!

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

1 garlic bulb

5 pounds salmon fillets or steaks, skin on

12 new potatoes, cut in half

1 SAVU Smoker Bag (Alder)

3 sugar cubes

SAVU Smoker Bags

Credit the Finns with inventing SAVU Smoker Bags (the Finnish word savu means “smoke”). Emeril Lagasse also distributes smoker bags under his Emerils brand; see www.emerilstore.com. Smoker bags are a miracle of Scandinavian simplicity: simply place the food you wish to smoke inside, seal, and either bake or grill it to smoky perfection.

 

1. Preheat oven to 475°F.

2. Slice the top off the garlic bulb to expose the cloves. Place the salmon, garlic, potatoes, and sugar cubes in the SAVU bag.

3. Seal the bag, place in the oven, and cook for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F. Carefully make a slit in the top of the bag to allow the salmon and potatoes to brown—but take care that the escaping steam does not burn you. Then cook for 15 more minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

4. Transfer the salmon to plates (removing the skin, if desired). Squeeze the roasted garlic from the cloves and toss with the potatoes. Serve alongside the smoked salmon, with warm rolls and a salad.

Smoked Trout with Summer Vegetables

During Walpurgis Night and Midsummer’s Eve, Scandinavians often use their celebratory bonfires to roast freshly caught trout in the embers. You can achieve much the same effect at home (with a minimal fire hazard) by smoking trout and summer vegetables in a Finnish SAVU smoker bag.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

5 pounds trout fillets, skin on

1 lemon, zested and thinly sliced

3 sugar cubes

1 SAVU Smoker Bag (Alder)

2 small zucchini, sliced

2 yellow squash, sliced

12 thin asparagus stalks, trimmed and cut into 3" pieces

112 tablespoons canola or olive oil

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

12 teaspoon salt

14 teaspoon pepper

 

1. Preheat oven to 475°F.

2. Place the trout fillets, lemon slices, and sugar cubes in the smoker bag.

3. Toss together the vegetables, lemon zest, oil, thyme, salt, and pepper. Place in the bag with the trout and seal.

4. Place the bag in the oven and cook for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F. Carefully make a slit in the top of the bag to allow the trout to brown slightly—but take care that the escaping steam does not burn you. Then cook for 5 more minutes.

5. Transfer the vegetables and the smoked trout to plates (removing the skin, if desired).

Grilled Trout with Minted Nettle Sauce

Delicate and earthy at the same time, grilled trout with minted nettle sauce is a perfect conclusion to a spring day spent fishing and foraging. The nettle-challenged chef can, of course, substitute baby spinach (safer but not quite so interesting and unique)!

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 4

13 cup butter, softened

4 tablespoons fresh parsley, finely chopped

3 tablespoons fresh mint, finely chopped

2 (1-pound) trout, gutted and cleaned

1 large lemon, thinly sliced

12 teaspoon salt

14 teaspoon pepper

212 cups water

2 cups packed nettle leaves (or baby spinach)

23 cup half-and-half

6 tablespoons butter, cubed

 

1. Beat together the softened butter, parsley, and 2 tablespoons of the mint, then spread inside the cavity of each fish. Place the lemon slices inside as well, then sprinkle the inside and outside of the fish with salt and pepper. Secure with toothpicks or kitchen string and place in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to marry.

2. While the fish rest, bring water to a boil over high heat in a medium saucepan. Pull on rubber gloves and wash the nettles, removing all stems, and then drop them into the water and blanch for 5 minutes until tender (you can take off your gloves now!). Drain the cooked nettles well, removing as much water as possible, and chop them finely.

3. Pour the half-and-half into a saucepan and bring to a steady simmer over medium heat; cook until the cream has reduced to 14 cup, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. Reduce heat to low and whisk in the cubes of butter, one at a time.

4. Stir in the nettles and the remaining 1 tablespoon of the mint; thin to sauce consistency, if necessary, with additional half-and-half. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then keep sauce warm while you grill the fish.

5. Grease your grill grate well, then preheat on high. Reduce heat to medium, place the fish on the grill, and cook for 10 minutes, flipping once.

6. Debone and skin the grilled trout and transfer to warm plates. Serve, accompanied with the minted nettle sauce.

Boiled Crayfish (Kräftor) with Dill

Emulate the Swedes and serve August’s beloved boiled crayfish with garlic mayonnaise, Våsterbotten Pie (see Chapter 8), lager, ice-cold aquavit, and a strawberry cake.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

4 quarts water (or enough to cover the crayfish in the pot)

12 cup salt

50 dill crowns

14 cup sugar

1 bottle dark beer (optional)

8 pounds live large crayfish (15–20)

 

1. Bring the water, salt, dill crowns, sugar, and beer (if using) to a boil in a large stockpot.

2. Place the live crayfish in a basket sifter and lower into the boiling water. Cook for 10 minutes, then turn off the heat and allow the crayfish to cool in the water.

3. Use tongs to transfer the crayfish to a bowl; cover and refrigerate until well chilled.

4. To serve, transfer to a platter garnished with additional dill crowns.

Butter-Braised Halibut with Saffron

Lightly braising fish in butter is a simple way to produce a gourmet-class dish without a lot of effort. Any firm-fleshed fish (salmon, tilapia, cod) can be substituted. Cook this over low to medium-low heat (don’t let it boil) to prevent the butter liquid from separating.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

1 clove garlic, finely minced

1 shallot, finely minced

12 cup Fish Stock (see recipe in this chapter)

1 tablespoon kosher salt (or 112 teaspoons regular salt)

1 pound homemade or European-style unsalted butter (Kerrygold or Plugra brands), melted

1 pinch saffron threads (about 18 teaspoon), crumbled

5 pounds halibut steaks or cheeks

 

1. In a heavy-bottomed frying pan just large enough to hold the fish, combine the garlic, shallots, fish stock, and salt and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat.

2. Gradually whisk the melted butter into the liquid, stirring steadily. Heat to 130°F, then stir in the crumbled saffron.

3. Place the fish in the pan and poach for 15–20 minutes or until cooked through (spoon the liquid over the top of the fish a few times as it poaches).

4. Transfer to plates and spoon some of the poaching butter over the fish, if desired. Accompany with rice and steamed vegetables.

Salt Baked Salmon

When fully encased in salt, this dramatic baked salmon retains an unparalleled juiciness while absorbing just enough flavor from the fennel and spices. Serve it with flair at the table, using a hammer to crack open the hardened salt.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 16–20

1 whole salmon (7–9 pounds), scaled, gutted, and with gills removed

1 egg white per pound of salt (8–10)

112 pounds of kosher or sea salt per pound of salmon (8–10 pounds)

12 tablespoon mixed (black, red, white) peppercorns

5 teaspoons whole cloves

15 whole star anise

1 large fennel bulb

 

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a large roasting pan or baking sheet large enough to hold the salmon with heavy aluminum foil.

2. Whip the egg whites to firm peaks, then fold together with the salt to form a stiff paste, the consistency of wet sand, that holds together when squeezed.

3. Place 13 of the salt-egg paste in a 12-thick layer over the bottom of the foil-lined pan. Sprinkle half of the spices evenly over the salt paste.

4. Cut the fennel bulb in half and coarsely chop the fennel tops; core and thinly slice the bulb. Stuff the sliced bulb and fennel tops into the center of the salmon.

5. Place the salmon on the salt paste, then sprinkle the remaining spices on top. Use your hands to pack the rest of the paste over the top and around the sides of the fish, completely encasing it in the salt mixture.

6. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes per pound, until an instant-read thermometer stuck into the center of the fish registers 125°F (check it at 40 minutes). Remove from oven and allow to sit for 15 minutes before serving.

7. To serve, dramatically crack the salt crust open with a hammer. Peel the salt and the skin away from the fish, taking care to remove as much salt as possible. Slice the top half of the fish in serving size portions and transfer to plates; discard the fennel and the fish skeleton. Then slice the bottom half, lifting the individual pieces of salmon carefully away from the skin.

Baked Salmon with Caviar Cream in Puff Pastry

No, puff pastry isn’t Nordic (although it’s available in Scandinavian shops). Salmon caviar is, though, and it makes the perfect filling to top salmon encased in puff pastry.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

1 whole skinless salmon fillet (1–112 pounds), all pinbones removed

12 ounces cream cheese, softened

12 cup sour cream

Zest and juice of 1 small lemon

312 ounces (100 grams) black salmon caviar (Royal Sweden brand works well)

4 tablespoons chives, finely minced

2 8" × 11" sheets puff pastry

5 cups fresh spinach leaves

1 egg, beaten

Norwegian Food for Thought

Det er håp i hengende snore: “There is hope as long as your fishing line is in the water” (Norwegian proverb).

 

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Trim the edges of the salmon so that all sides are even.

2. Using a whisk (or whisk attachment of an electric beater), beat together the cream cheese, sour cream, and lemon juice. Drain and rinse the caviar, then gently fold it and the chives into the whipped cream cheese with a spatula.

3. Grease a large baking sheet. Roll the 2 puff pastry sheets into rectangles that are 1 wider than the salmon fillet. Transfer 1 pastry sheet to the baking sheet.

4. Place the salmon fillet on top of the puff pastry sheet and drizzle with the lemon zest. Cover with two or three layers of spinach leaves.

5. Spoon the caviar cream evenly across the top of the fillet, then cover with the second sheet of puff pastry. Seal and trim the edges and brush the top and sides of the pastry with the beaten egg. Cut 3 or 4 slits in the top crust.

6. Bake for 20 minutes or until puffed and golden. Cool slightly, then slice and serve.

Nordic Fish Pizza

The most-consumed food in Scandinavia isn’t meatballs or gravlax—it’s pizza! Still, there’s no reason that pizza can’t be part of a healthy Nordic diet, particularly when an herbed spelt crust supports smoked salmon, red onions, and tomatoes.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

23 cup finger-warm water (105ºF–110ºF)

112 teaspoons sugar

112 teaspoons quick-rising yeast

112 tablespoons plus 34 cup canola oil, divided use

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon dill or fennel seeds

5 cups light spelt flour

3 cups fresh dill, coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic

1 red onion, thinly sliced and separated into rings

14 pound smoked salmon, diced small

2 Meyer lemons, thinly sliced

23 cup dill Havarti cheese, shredded

 

1. In a medium bowl, stir together water, sugar, and yeast. Allow to sit for 15 minutes until the yeast bubbles, then mix together with 112 tablespoons canola oil, salt, and dill or fennel seeds. Stir in flour.

2. Place into an oiled bowl, turning to cover with the oil. Cover with a tea towel and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour. Punch down and roll into a crust.

3. While pizza dough is rising, preheat a pizza stone in your oven at 475°F for 30 minutes.

4. Reduce heat to 400°F. Lightly dust a pizza peel with cornmeal, place the pizza crust on it, and slide the pizza into the oven to prebake for 10 minutes.

5. Place 34 cup canola oil, 3 cups chopped dill, and garlic in a food processor and pulse into a smooth sauce.

6. Remove the prebaked pizza crust from the oven; spread the dill sauce evenly across the top. Arrange the red onion rings, smoked salmon, and lemon slices over the sauce, then sprinkle with the grated cheese.

7. Return the pizza to the oven and cook until the cheese has melted, about 10 minutes.

Norwegian Fish Pudding (Fiskepudding)

A true classic, Norwegian Fish Pudding is not only wonderful in its own right, but it can also be used as the base for fish cakes and fish balls. Slice it and serve it as is with Shrimp Sauce (see recipe in this chapter), or lightly fry the slices for a crispier entrée.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

112 pounds white fish (haddock, cod, or halibut), skinned and deboned

4 teaspoons salt

12 cup crushed ice

112 tablespoons potato starch flour (or substitute cornstarch)

3 egg whites

112 cups cream, well chilled

18 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon butter, softened

2 tablespoons dried rye bread crumbs

A kettle full of boiling water

Shrimp Sauce to taste (see recipe in this chapter)

 

1. Chop the fish into 2 chunks, place in the bowl of a food processor (equipped with its blade), cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Place a mixing bowl (of a stand mixer, if you have one) in the freezer to chill, as well.

2. Place the chilled bowl with the fish on the processor and sprinkle in the salt. Pulse for a few seconds, then add the crushed ice and the potato starch flour. Pulse again to combine.

3. Place the egg whites in the chilled mixing bowl and use the whip attachment (or a balloon whisk) to beat them to soft peaks. Fold the fish paste into the beaten eggs whites. With the mixer on low, gradually pour the cream in a steady stream into the bowl until the mixture has turned into a thick, smooth purée. Increase the speed to high and whip for 2–3 minutes, until light and fluffy.

4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Use the softened butter to grease a 112-quart loaf pan, then dust the bottom and sides with the dried bread crumbs. Spoon the fish batter into the pan, cover it tightly with aluminum foil, then place the pan in the center of a larger casserole dish. Add enough boiling water to the casserole to fill it 34 of the way up.

5. Place the casserole dish in the oven on the middle rack and bake for 60–70 minutes, making sure that the water bath simmers but does not reach a boil. The pudding is done when a bamboo skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean and dry.

6. To serve, pour off any juices that may have collected on the top of the pudding. Invert the pan onto a warmed platter, cut into slices, and accompany with Shrimp Sauce.

Shrimp Sauce

Enjoy this shrimp sauce as a topping for Norwegian Fiskepudding, on pasta, or over buttered wild rice.

INGREDIENTS | MAKES 2 CUPS

112 sticks butter (34 cup), divided use

14 cup flour

5 cups half-and-half

1 teaspoon salt

12 teaspoon white pepper

12 cup dry white wine

4 shallots, finely chopped

16 ounces uncooked shrimp, peeled and deveined

13 cup fresh dill, finely chopped

 

1. Melt 14 cup of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat until frothy. Whisk in the flour and cook for 2–3 minutes, until the roux begins to bubble. Stir in the half-and-half, salt, and white pepper; cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, 5–7 minutes. Whisk in the wine and reduce heat to low.

2. In a frying pan over medium heat, melt the remaining butter. Stir in the shallots, and sauté just until they soften and begin to brown; add the shrimp and cook 5 more minutes, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp turn pink.

3. Fold the sautéed shrimp and shallots into the sauce, mix in the dill, and season with additional salt and pepper to taste.

Fish Dumplings (Fiskefarse) with Curry Sauce

Norwegian Fiskefarse begin with the same components as Fiskepudding, but after the fish is processed into a smooth batter, it is formed into small dumplings that are quickly poached before serving with a savory sauce.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

112 pounds white fish (haddock, cod, or halibut), skinned and deboned

412 teaspoons salt, divided use

12 cup crushed ice

112 tablespoons potato starch flour (or substitute cornstarch)

3 egg whites

112 cups cream, well chilled

14 cup butter

14 cup flour

2 cups milk

14 teaspoon white pepper

112 teaspoons curry powder

Other Sauce Suggestions

Not a curry fan? Norwegian fiskefarse are also quite good when served with dill sauce, Shrimp Sauce (see recipe in this chapter), or lobster sauce (these canned varieties are all packaged and distributed by Sweden’s Abba Seafood company).

 

1. Chop the fish into 2 chunks, place in the bowl of a food processor (equipped with its blade), cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Place a mixing bowl (of a stand mixer, if you have one) in the freezer to chill as well.

2. Place the chilled bowl with the fish on the processor and sprinkle in 2 teaspoons of the salt. Pulse for a few seconds, then add the crushed ice and the potato starch flour. Pulse again to combine.

3. Place the egg whites in the chilled mixing bowl and use the whip attachment (or a balloon whisk) to beat them to soft peaks. Fold the fish paste into the beaten egg whites. Then, with the mixer on low, gradually pour the cream in a steady stream into the bowl until the mixture has turned into a thick, smooth purée. Increase the mixer speed to high and whip for 2–3 minutes, until light and fluffy.

4. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

5. While the fish chills, make a curry sauce by melting the butter in a saucepan until frothy. Stir in the flour to make a roux, then gradually whisk in the milk. After the sauce thickens, stir in remaining 12 teaspoon salt, the white pepper, and curry powder; reduce heat to low and keep warm.

6. To make the dumplings, flour your hands and roll 1 tablespoon of the fish at a time into 1-long balls. Fill a pot with salted water to the depth of 4, bring to a low boil, then gently lower the dumplings into the water. Poach for 2–3 minutes or until firm. Remove, drain, and serve warm with the curry sauce.