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Updated by Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne

A new wave of culinary confidence has been running through one of the world’s great food cities and spilling over both banks of the Seine. Whether cooking up grand-mère’s roast chicken and riz au lait or placing a whimsical hat of cotton candy atop wild-strawberry-and-rose ice cream, Paris chefs have been breaking free from the tyranny of tradition and following their passions.

Emblematic of this movement is the proliferation of haute cuisine—trained bistro chefs who have opened their own restaurants. Among the newcomers to the bistronomique scene are David Rathgeber, who left Benoît to take over the chic Montparnasse bistro L’Assiette; Mickaël Gaignon, a veteran of Pierre Gagnaire and Le Pré Catelan who now runs the Marais bistro Le Gaigne; and Stéphane Marcouzzi, who was maître d’hôtel at Guy Savoy’s Le Cap Vernet before opening L’Epigramme in St-Germain with chef Aymeric Kräml, and now L’Epicuriste, in the 15th arrondissement. But self-expression is not the only driving force behind the current changes. A traditional high-end restaurant can be prohibitively expensive to operate. As a result, more casual bistros and cafés, which often have lower operating costs and higher profit margins, have become attractive businesses for even top chefs.

For tourists, this development can only be good news, because it makes the cooking of geniuses such as Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy, Alain Senderens, and Pierre Gagnaire more accessible (even if these star chefs rarely cook in their lower-price restaurants).

Like the chefs themselves, Paris diners are breaking away—albeit cautiously—from tradition. New restaurants, wine bars, and rapidly multiplying sandwich shops recognize that not everyone wants a three-course blowout every time they dine out. And because Parisians are more widely traveled than in the past, many ethnic restaurants—notably the best North African, Vietnamese/Laotian, Chinese, Spanish, and Japanese spots—are making fewer concessions to French tastes, resulting in far better food.

Wine Bars

For tantalizing wines, good food, and great value, look no farther than one of Paris’s many wine bars. The past 10 years have seen an explosion of a new kind of bar à vins, or, more accurately, cave à manger—essentially amplified wineshops with a few tables, which serve a plate or two of regional cheeses or artisanal charcuterie to complement the wines. The new generation of cavists stood apart as champions of natural wines, which are unfiltered, contain minimal or no added sulphites, and are often bio (organic) or grown biodynamically, that is, according to a specific set of agricultural guidelines. As the natural wine movement dovetailed with the crusade toward simply prepared foods made from quality seasonal ingredients, the contemporary wine bar was born. Indeed, the food in a handful of wine bars now rivals that in the best Paris bistros—and can be a lot more affordable. Whatever the emphasis, the upward trajectory of the wine bar has had a major hand in reinvigorating Paris’s wine and food scene.

Wine bars usually keep restaurant hours (noon–2 pm and 7:30–11 pm); some combine with an épicerie (gourmet grocer), stay open all day, and close earlier in the evening; others offer a late-night scene. Although casual, most wine bars nowadays require reservations, so call in advance, especially if Sunday brunch is available—still a rarity in Paris. Look for the “wine bar” designation in our restaurant listings.

Children

Some restaurants provide booster seats, but don’t count on them: be sure to ask when you confirm your reservation.

Dining Strategy

Where should we eat? With thousands of Paris eateries competing for your attention, it may seem like a daunting question. But fret not—our expert writers and editors have done the legwork. The 120-plus selections here represent the best this city has to offer. Delve in, and enjoy!

Hours

Paris restaurants generally serve food from noon to 2 pm and from 7:30 or 8 pm to about 11 pm. Brasseries have longer hours and often serve all day and late into the evening; some are open 24 hours. Surprisingly, many restaurants close on Saturday as well as Sunday, and Monday closings are also not uncommon. July and August are common months for annual closings, but restaurants may also close for a week in February, around Easter, or at Christmas.

Menus

All establishments must post menus outside so they’re available to look over before you enter. Most have two basic types of menu: à la carte and fixed price (prix fixe, le menu, or la formule). Although it limits your choices, the prix fixe is usually the best value. If you feel like indulging, the menu dégustation (tasting menu), consisting of numerous small courses, lets you sample the chef’s offerings.

Ordering Wine

Most sommeliers are knowledgeable about their lists and can make appropriate suggestions after you’ve made your tastes and budget known. Simpler spots serve wine in carafes (en carafe, or en pichet). Many restaurants now sell wine by the glass, but prices can be steep; be sure to do the math.

Reservations

Restaurant staff will nearly always greet you with the phrase “Avez-vous réservé?” (Have you reserved?) and a confident “Oui” is the best answer, even in a neighborhood bistro. Although some wine bars do not take reservations, many do, so call and check.

Smoking

Many Parisians are accustomed to smoking before, during, and after meals, but since 2008, the national smoking ban was extended to restaurants, bars, and cafés. Many establishments have compensated by adding covered terraces for smokers, but you’ll be happy to know that inside, the air is much clearer.

Tipping and Taxes

According to French law, prices must include tax and tip (service compris or prix nets), but pocket change left on the table in cafés, or an additional 5% in better restaurants, is always appreciated. Beware of bills stamped “Service Not Included” in English or restaurants slyly using American-style credit-card slips, hoping that you’ll be confused and add the habitual 15% tip.

What It Costs

You’ll be lucky to find a good bistro meal for €25 or less, even at lunch, so consider economizing on some meals to have more to spend on the others. Slurping inexpensive Japanese noodles on Rue Ste-Anne or having a picnic in a park at lunch will save euros for dinner. And, of course, if you’ve rented an apartment, you can shop at the city’s wonderful markets and cook a few meals at “home.” Prices in the reviews are the average cost of a main course at dinner or, if dinner is not served, at lunch.

What to Wear

Casual dress is acceptable at all but the fanciest restaurants—this usually means stylish sportswear, which might be a bit dressier than in the United States. When in doubt, leave the T-shirts and sneakers behind. If an establishment requires jacket and tie, it’s noted in the review.

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