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Champs-Élysées | Around the Louvre | Opéra/Grands Boulevards | Montmartre | The Marais | Eastern Paris | Latin Quarter | St-Germain-des-Prés | Montparnasse
Reviews are alphabetical by neighborhood.
Champs-Élysées
Bars
Apicius.
Apicius offers sublime elegance mere steps from the Champs-Élysées. Wander through the luxe front garden and château restaurant to the sleekly modern black bar where couture cocktails are concocted to suit any cultured taste. Closed Saturday and Sunday. | 20 rue d’Artois, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–43–80–19–66 | Station: George V.
Bar La Table du 8, Maison Champs Elysées.
This spot, in Maison Champs Elysées (the first hotel to be decorated by Belgian designer Maison Martin Margiela) is a huge hit with the fashion crowd. | 8, rue Jean Goujon, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–40–74–64–65 | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, Champs-Ėlysées-Clémenceau.
Bar Metropolitan.
This cozy spot, which seats 25 at most, has one of the best bar views of the Eiffel Tower. It also serves delicious champagne cocktails dreamed up by the head bartender, who is only too happy to practice his English on you. | 10 pl. de Mexico, 16e, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75016 | 01–56–90–40–04 | Station: Trocadéro.
Buddha Bar.
While it may be past its prime with Parisians, visitors can’t seem to get enough of the bar’s high-camp towering gold Buddha that holds court over giant palm fronds, red satin walls, colorful chinoiserie, and a spacious mezzanine bar that, in turn, overlooks a dining room serving pan-Asian fare. | 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–53–05–90–00 | Station: Concorde.
Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels.
After jump-starting the Paris cocktail bar scene, the partners behind Experimental Cocktail Club and the Ballroom du Beef Club, among others, apply the same winning formula to this hybrid wine bar–nightclub to great success. The clubby atmosphere—plush sofas, carpets, low tables, and mood lighting—extensive wine list, and upscale nibbles draw a crowd of hip, young Parisians who can hone their wine-tasting skills on a list of classics in every price range. Natural wine aficionados get thee to a wine bar; though solid, the wine list does not deliver as promised. | 7 rue Lobineau, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 06–14–76–81–08 | compagniedesvinssurnaturels.com | Station: Odéon, Mabillon.
Drugstore Publicis.
This bustling, phantasmagorical, multilevel, open-until-2-am bar-resto-hipster-shop is just across the street from the Arc de Triomphe. | 133 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–44–43–79–00 | Station: Charles de Gaulle–Étoile.
English Bar.
You might find diplomats and other dignitaries discussing state affairs at this plush red den of masculinity at L’Hôtel Raphael, a stone’s throw from the Arc de Triomphe. TIP The hotel’s Rooftop Bar, a well-guarded Parisian secret, was voted the best bar in Europe in recent years. | 17 av. Kleber, 16e, Champs-Élysée | 75016 | 01–53–64–32–00 | Station: Kleber, Champs-Élysée Etoile.
Flûte Bar.
A Paris offshoot of the original Flûte bar in New York, Flûte L’Etoile is just off the Champs in the chic 17th. In a country where you might expect to find champagne bars on every corner, it’s one of only a handful that serve a serious selection by the glass or bottle. | 19 rue de l’Étoile, 17e, Champs-Élysées | 75017 | 01–45–72–10–14 | Ternes.
Hotel Daniel.
A quiet haven off the Champs-Élysées? Doesn’t exist, you say? At Hotel Daniel you can install yourself on an overstuffed silk couch or divan and sip on a flute of champagne while having a quiet conversation until late into the night. Really. | 8 rue Frédéric Bastiat, 8e, Champs-Élysée | 75008 | 01–42–56–17–00 | Station: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule.
Hôtel Plaza Athenée.
Hôtel Plaza Athenée, Paris’s perfectly chic chill-out spot, has a sexy, glowing bar designed by Philippe Starck protégé Patrick Jouin. Gather here for an apéritif to stoke your energy before hitting the nearby club scene. It’s party central during Paris Fashion Week. TIP You’ll find one of the most inventive cocktail lists in town here: try the acclaimed Rose Royale, with Alain Ducasse champagne and freshly crushed raspberries. | 25 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–53–67–66–00 | www.plaza-athenee-paris.com | Station: Alma Marceau.
Le Bar.
The Shangri-La Hotel’s popular bar serves cocktails with a signature Asian touch. On Tuesday and Wednesday La Bauhinia, the hotel’s restaurant, has well-attended jazz nights. | 10 av. d’Iéna, 16e, Trocadéro | 75016 | 01–53–67–19–98 | Station: Iéna.
Le Bar at George V.
An ultraluxe, clubby hideaway in the Four Seasons Hotel, Le Bar at George V is perfect for star-gazing from the plush wine-red armchairs, cognac in hand. Its charm still lures the glitterati, especially during fashion weeks. Be sure to notice the hotel’s signature—and stunning—flower arrangements. | 31 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–49–52–70–00 | Station: George V.
Le Bar du Bristol.
This splendid, newly updated spot is apparently not satisfied with its usual clientele of the rich and powerful. Now it’s vying for the impossibly hip, too. Along with the stellar cocktails, exceptional wines, and tapas by superchef Eric Frechon, the bar at Hôtel Le Bristol hosts art appreciation programs on weekdays between 9 and 10:30, and chic Paris DJs heat up the scene between 9:30 and 1:30 am, Thursday to Saturday. TIP Try the famous Crazy Horse cocktail or their signature raspberry puree and champagne, the Dolce Vita. | 112 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–53–43–43–00 | www.lebristolparis.com | Station: Miromesnil.
Pershing Hall.
Pershing Hall has an überstylish lounge with muted colors and minimalist lines, plus an enormous “vertical garden” in the simply stunning indoor courtyard. The chic ambience and hip lounge music make this a popular neighborhood nightspot; starting at 10 pm there’s a DJ. TIP Try the signature Lalique cocktail—it comes in an actual Lalique crystal glass. | 49 rue Pierre Charron, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 78008 | 01–58–36–58–00 | www.pershinghall.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Saint James Club Paris.
Like a library room out of Harry Potter, the bar at the Saint James Club Paris is studiously inviting. It’s very French, and open to nonmembers only after 7 pm or during Sunday brunch. The owners are a venerable old Bordeaux family; accordingly, you’ll find a respectable selection of champagnes and wines. | 43 av. Bugeaud, 16e, Passy, Western Paris | 75016 | 01–44–05–81–82 | Station: Porte Dauphine.
Cabaret
Crazy Horse.
This world-renowned cabaret has honed striptease to an elegant art. Founded in 1951 and renovated in 2007, it’s renowned for gorgeous dancers and raunchy routines characterized by lots of humor and few clothes. Burlesque artist extraordinaire and fashion show regular Dita von Teese has been known to perform here, elevating the reputation of this haunt. | 12 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–47–23–32–32 | Station: Alma-Marceau.
Lido.
The supercalifragilisticexpialidelicious Blubell Girls (picture feathers, spangles, boas, and lots of skin) are the stars here. Lido owners claim that no show this side of Vegas rivals theirs for special effects. | 116 bis, av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–40–76–56–10 | Station: George V.
Clubs
Black Calavados.
Known as “BC” to its trendsetting devotees, Black Calavados is a sleek bar where the party starts late (don’t bother coming before 1 am) and lasts until morning. Ring the buzzer out front for the doorman to assess your worth—this is a celebrity hangout. Inside, try the Black Kiss, a shot of black vodka served on ice with sugar-cube lips. TIP If all else fails, head upstairs to the smaller but equally sexy Blitz tequila bar. | 40 av. Pierre, 1er, de Serbie 8e, Champs-Élysées | 78001 | 01–47–20–77–77 | Station: Alma Marceau, George V.
Le Baron.
Formerly a seedy “hostess” bar, Le Baron didn’t bother to update its decadent cabaret decor (red banquettes, mirror ball, and baronial top-hat sign) when it opened in 2004—and it didn’t need to. Models, musicians, and Oscar winners party until morning while indulging in the bar’s classic cocktail: a mix of red fruits, champagne, and vodka called the Baron Deluxe. It’s notoriously difficult to get in. | 6 av. Marceau, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–47–20–04–01 | Station: Alma-Marceau.
Mathi’s Bar.
Mathi’s Bar is one of the best-kept secrets on the Paris bar-lounge scene. If you can talk your way past the stern door-people, you can mingle with oligarchs, artists, and visiting American movie stars in the poshly decadent atmosphere. It gets cozier on weekends. | 3 rue Ponthieu, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–53–76–01–62 | Station: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule.
Neo.
Neo is a disco with rock-and-roll trimmings, a sleek dance floor, and a notoriously strict door policy. | 23 rue de Ponthieu, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–42–25–57–14 | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Queen.
This mythic gay club of the ’90s is not quite as monumental as it once was, but it still packs ’em in and the doors are still difficult to get through, especially—inevitably—on weekends. Proudly hosting a fantastic roster of top DJs, it’s known for its campy soirées. These days it attracts a gay-straight mix of international partygoers eager to dance on podiums. | 102 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–53–89–08–90 | Station: George V.
Sens.
Sens is all about the music, with a superb sound system and meticulous house DJs who spin a mix of techno and disco. Saved by its always slightly off-peak popularity, it nurtures a kind of retro superiority that continues to attract models and trendies. | 23 rue de Ponthieu, 8e, Concorde | 75008 | 01–42–25–95–00 | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Showcase.
Under the golden Pont Alexandre bridge, Showcase takes the gold medal for best location. Inside, a long bar, two VIP sections, and a stage that hosts a diverse range of talented groups and DJs makes this a mandatory stop on any night of clubbing. | Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Concorde | 75008 | 01–45–61–25–43 | Station: Champs-Élysées–Clemenceau, Invalides.
Jazz Clubs
Jazz Club Etoile.
This moody club at the Méridien Hotel hosts a roster of top-billed international musicians in a classy set of rooms. Check out the Sunday afternoon jazz brunch buffet and the interior garden. | Méridien Hotel,81 bd. Gouvion–St-Cyr, 17e, Champs-Élysées | 75017 | 01–40–68–30–42 | Station: Porte Maillot.
Around the Louvre
Les Halles
Bars
Ballroom du Beef Club.
Unmarked black door, basement setting, pressed tin ceilings, atmospheric lighting—did anyone say speakeasy? All this and luscious drinks draw a sophisticated crowd that appreciates all the extra touches that make this bar a standout. | 58 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, 1e, Les Halles | 75001 | 09–54–37–13–65 | Station: Les Halles, Palais-Royal–Musée du Louvre.
Bar at the Hotel Jules & Jim.
The look here is something between a chic contemporary Paris apartment and a low-key lounge. Enjoy a cocktail over a good book from the bar library, or relax with a smooth cocktail in front of the outdoor fireplace. | 11 rue des Gravilliers, 3e, Marais | 75003 | 01–44–54–13–13 | www.hoteljulesetjim.com | Station: Arts et Métiers, Rambuteau.
Candelaria.
If a muscled man bars your way, just whisper the magic word: cocktail. Then traverse the tiny Mexican taqueria (the best in Paris) through an unmarked door and into a crowded, steamy room where the tang of tequila hangs in the air. You’ve found one of Paris’s hip hideaways. | 52 rue de Saintonge, 3e, Marais | 75003 | 01–42–74–41–28 | www.candelariaparis.com | Station: Filles du Calvaire.
Chacha Club.
Behind a nondescript facade you’ll find a 1930s-style bar-club-restaurant arranged like a private home, with a series of rooms on three floors—including a special smoking lounge—and lots of corners where the casually stylish cool cats of Paris get cozy until the wee hours. | 47 rue Berger, 1er, Les Halles | 75001 | 01–40–13–12–12 | Station: Châtelet-Les Halles.
Experimental Cocktail Club.
Fashioned as a speakeasy on a tiny brick-paved street, the Experimental Cocktail Club seems like it should be lighted by gas lamps. The show is all about the alcool; colorful, innovative cocktails like the Lemon Drop are mixed with aplomb by friendly (and attractive) bartenders. By 11 pm it’s packed with a diverse mix of locals, professionals, and fashionistas, who occasionally dress up like characters from a Toulouse-Lautrec painting on special costume nights. | 37 rue Saint-Sauveur, 2e, Les Halles | 75002 | 01–45–08–88–09 | Station: Réamur-Sébastopol.
Glass.
Masquerading as a dive in Pigalle’s rapidly gentrifying red-light district, this dark, candlelit space is actually a shrine to urban cool. Hipsters party down to a DJ while knocking back sophisticated cocktails, artisanal beers, and frosty margaritas from the frozen drinks machine. It might also be the only place in Paris to find a boilermaker (beer and a shot). Excellent snacks help fuel the late-night party scene. | 9 rue Frochot, 9e, Pigalle | 75009 | 06–25–16–72–17 | www.glassparis.com | Station: Pigalle.
Jefrey’s.
The custom DJ’d music track, the love seats, and the inventive cocktails make this a sophisticated and easy choice for intimate evening in good company and stylish surroundings. Great for return customers, Jefrey’s lets you keep your bottle stored on the shelf, with your name on it, for next time. | 14 rue Saint-Sauveur, 2e, Les Halles | 75002 | 01–42–33–60–77 | Station: Étienne Marcel.
La Conserverie.
A rustic-elegant loft space with exposed ductwork, Aubusson tapestries, comfy sofas, and glass-bottle chandeliers, where skillful cocktails—for those on and off the wagon—and excellent food add up to a very convivial crowd. A popular place, it gets crowded fast. Reserve ahead to assure a table. | 37 bis, rue du Sentier, 2e, Grands Boulevards | 75002 | 01–40–26–14–94 | www.laconserveriebar.com | Station: Bonne Nouvelle, Sentier.
Le Café Noir.
Parisians from Bobos (bourgeois-bohemians) to pompiers (firefighters) are lured to Le Café Noir’s elegantly worn digs. In addition to cool drinks and friendly staff, the place features a pipe-smoking papier-mâché fish and a vintage leopard-print-covered motorbike. (The restaurant with the same name is unrelated.) | 65 rue Montmartre, 2e, Les Halles | 75002 | 01–40–39–07–36 | Station: Étienne Marcel.
Le Truskel.
What looks and sounds and feels like an English pub but kicks booty like a punk club? Le Truskel, whose basement showcases gigs by the globe’s hottest new alternative acts while a loud, happy Parisian rocker crowd staggers around the roomy bar. | 12 rue Feydeau, 2e, Les Halles | 75002 | 01–40–26–59–97 | Station: Bourse.
Gay and Lesbian Bars and Clubs
Banana Café.
Banana Café draws a trendy, scantily clad mixed crowd and offers show tunes in the cellar, where dancing on tables is the norm. Monday night is the soirée sans interdit (where nothing is forbidden)—ooh la la! | 13 rue de la Ferronnerie, 1er, Les Halles | 75001 | 01–42–33–35–31 | www.bananacafeparis.com | Station: Châtelet Les Halles.
Bar d’Art/Le Duplex.
Young tortured-artist types flock here to enjoy the frequent art exhibitions, alternative music, and mood-inspiring ambient lighting. | 25 rue Michel-Le-Comte, 3e, Les Halles | 75003 | 01–42–72–80–86 | Station: Rambuteau.
Le Dépôt.
Le Dépôt is a cruising bar, club, and the largest back room in Europe. The ever-popular Gay Tea Dance spices up Sunday afternoon. | 10 rue aux Ours, 3e, Les Halles | 75003 | 01–44–54–96–96 | Station: Étienne Marcel.
Jazz Clubs
Le Sunset-Sunside.
This two-part club hosts French and American jazz musicians: the Sunside upstairs is devoted mostly to acoustic jazz, while the Sunset downstairs features everything from electronic jazz, fusion, and groove to classic and swing. Jam sessions have been known to last well into the wee hours. | 60 rue des Lombards, 1er, Les Halles | 75001 | 01–40–26–46–60 | Station: Châtelet Les Halles.
Louvre
Bars
Bar 8.
Since this monolithic marble bar at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel opened its doors, it has been the “in” game in town. There’s an extensive champagne menu, and the terrace was an instant hit with the Fashion Week gang. | 251 rue Saint-Honoré, 1e, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–70–98–78–88 | Station: Concorde, Tuileries.
Bar 228.
Hôtel Meurice converted its ground-floor Fontainebleau library into the intimate Bar 228, with wood paneling and huge murals depicting the royal hunting forests of Fontainebleau. Its loyal fashion crowd is continually wooed by Philippe Starck decor updates and lubricated with the bar’s famous Bellinis. TIP Try the Meurice Millennium cocktail, made with champagne, rose liqueur, and Cointreau. | 228 rue de Rivoli, 1er, Louvre | 75001 | 01–44–58–10–66 | Station: Tuileries.
The Hemingway Bar & the Ritz Bar.
Literature lovers, cocktail connoisseurs, and other drink-swilling devotees drew a collective sigh when the iconic Hemingway Bar & the Ritz Bar were shuttered—along with the rest of the super-luxe Ritz—when the hotel closed for a top-to-bottom makeover in 2012. Although an opening date has not yet been set, it’s expected that libations will started being poured again in late 2014 or early 2015. Watch for the big reveal: this is one of the most hotly anticipated face-lifts in Paris. | 15 pl. Vendôme, 1er | 75001 | www.ritzparis.com | Station: Opéra.
Hôtel Costes.
Hôtel Costes draws the big names, and not just during fashion week. Despite years on the scene, this place has lost none of its flair, or star clientele. Expect to cross paths with anyone from Kylie Minogue to Bruce Willis, as long as you make it past the chilly greeting of the statuesque hostess. Dressing to kill is strongly advised, especially for newcomers; otherwise expect all the tables to be suddenly reserved. | 239 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre | 75001 | 01–42–44–50–25 | Station: Tuileries.
L’Assaggio Bar.
At this bar, in Chanel’s old neighborhood, you can order tea and macarons until midnight—in addition to cocktails. | 33–37 rue Cambon, 1e, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–44–58–44–58 | Station: Concorde, Madeleine.
Le Bar O d’Oro Ïto.
Slip into a sinuous banquette at Hôtel O’s intimate, stylish bar while you still can. It’s an undiscovered gem, ideal for savoring a choice selection of ambrosial cocktails. TIP The Cointreau Fizz—a blend of ginger soda, lemon, and Cointreau, with a split vanilla bean and a hint of rose—is as classy as they come. | 19 rue Herold, 1e, Around the Louvre | 75001 | 01–42–36–04–02 | www.hotel-o-paris.com | Station: Palais-Royal–Musée du Louvre, Sentier, Les Halles.
Le Fumoir.
Le Fumoir is an oh-so-reliably ultrachic charmer across from the Louvre, where fashionable neighborhood gallery owners and young professionals meet for late-afternoon wine, early-evening cocktails, or dinner. It features a super-stocked bar in the front, an ample multilingual library in the back, and chessboards for the clientele to use while sipping martinis. | 6 rue de l’Amiral-Coligny, 1er, Louvre | 75001 | 01–42–92–00–24 | Station: Louvre.
Clubs
Cab.
Models, photographers, and stylists bypass lesser beings at the velvet rope at this popular fashion-centric club across from the Louvre. If you make it inside, you’ll appreciate the chic Space Odyssey atmosphere. Depending on the night, you’ll hear funk, hip-hop, electro, or house. | 2 pl. du Palais-Royal, 1er, Louvre | 75001 | 01–58–62–56–25 | Station: Palais-Royal.
Kong.
Kong is glorious not only for its panoramic skyline views, but for its exquisite manga-inspired decor, the top-shelf DJs for weekend dancing, and its kooky, disco-ball-and-kid-sumo-adorned bathrooms. It was featured as a chic eatery in Sex and the City; need we say more? | 1 rue du Pont-Neuf, 1er, Louvre | 75001 | 01–40–39–09–00 | Station: Pont-Neuf.
Soirée Bus.
Traveling with a tribe? You and up to 60 of your closest friends can drink and dance in this private disco on wheels—with a DJ and a bouncer—while touring Paris sights such as the Eiffel Tower, the Champs-Élysées, and Place Vendôme. | Louvre/Palais-Royal | 06–32–62–14–34.
VIP Room.
Although it’s no longer on the Champs-Élysées, this temple of bling still attracts the hot DJs, beautiful people, and …VIPs! Check the website for the latest soirée: usually R&B/hip-hop/top 40 crowd pleasers. There’s a gift shop, a ground-floor café, and a pricey Italian restaurant on the top floor. Dress to impress. | 188 bis, rue de Rivoli, 1er, Louvre | 75001 | 01–58–36–46–00 | Station: Palais-Royal.
Gay Clubs
Club 18.
This elegant spot (the oldest gay club in Paris) takes gay pride to the heart of the Louvre district on the weekends. Club 18 boasts a well-earned reputation as a “friendly party scene.” | 18 rue de Beaujolais, 1er, Louvre | 75003 | 01–42–97–52–13 | Station: Palais- Royale.
Opéra/Grands Boulevards
Bars
Barramundi.
The city’s nouveau-riche chill to electro-lounge tunes and world music here, drinking in Barramundi’s cool golden ambience as they sip cold tropical drinks at the long copper bar. | 3 rue Taitbout, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–47–70–21–21 | Station: Richelieu Drouot.
Café Oz.
Café Oz zips you Down Under to big-screen soccer and rugby games amid Aussie expats. There are several locations around Paris. | 8 bd. Montmartre, 9e, Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–47–70–18–52 | Station: Grands Boulevards.
Jazz Clubs
The French fell hard for jazz during World War I, but the real coup de foudre—literally “lightning bolt” or figuratively “love at first sight”—came after the war when Yank sax man Sidney Bechet and 19-year-old song-and-dance vamp Josephine Baker of St. Louis joined a European tour of the Revue Nègre musical. Baker, or the “Black Venus that haunted Baudelaire,” as she was known by French critics, instantly became the sweetheart of Paris. Note: A larger-than-life picture of Baker wearing only a smile, a string of pearls, and a thigh-high skirt today adorns a wall of historic photographs along the platform of the Tuileries métro.
By 1934 France had created its own impressive claim to jazz fame, the all-string Quintette du Hot Club de France, which featured Gypsy guitarist Django Reinhardt and his partner, violinist Stéphane Grappelli. They, in turn, influenced string players from country musicians to Carlos Santana. Reinhardt performed throughout much of World War II in the underground French jazz scene. In the 1950s Paris grew to become a major destination of the bebop diaspora, and expat jazz musicians including Bechet, Bud Powell, and Dexter Gordon played the venues along with such jazz greats as Dizzy Gillespie, Charlie Parker, and Miles Davis. France embraced the evolving jazz sound that many Americans were still struggling to accept and provided a worshipful welcome to musicians battling discrimination at home. In Paris, Davis said, he was “treated like a human being.”
Want to experience a night of jazz yourself?
The French obsession with jazz continues to this day, and travelers seeking a quintessential Parisian experience have the opportunity to hear jazz artists from all over the world nearly any night of the week. Aficionados can choose from traditional jazz to the latest experimental efforts, in clubs ranging from casual to chichi, sedate to hopping. Many venues present a wide spectrum of music. A good option is the double club on Rue des Lombards near Les Halles: Le Sunside specializes in more traditional jazz, and its downstairs sister, Le Sunset, features edgier options.
Music generally begins after 9 pm, so plan accordingly. You can dine at some of the clubs, including Le Petit Journal Montparnasse, or in the Hotel Méridien on the Champs-Élysées, which houses the classy Jazz Club Etoile.
As everywhere else in the city, the French folks at the clubs tend to dress more stylishly than the average traveler with a limited wardrobe, but they’re generally a tolerant bunch—particularly in venues frequented by students and in the heart of tourist areas (like Caveau de la Huchette, a hot cellar dance club across the river from Notre-Dame). Keep in mind, though, that the French are serious about their jazz: with a few exceptions, the audience is generally focused and quiet during performances.
Recognizable names to watch for include expat Yank flute and sax man Bobby Rangell and singer Sara Lazarus, and much-loved French musicians like the pianists Alain Jean-Marie and Pierre de Bethman, sax man Didier Malherbe, and Olivier Ker Ourio on the harmonica. You might want to check out a jazz style you’re less likely to find at home, though, like the latest iteration of Gypsy musette (a distinctive, swing-infused interpretation of old Paris dance music) presented by virtuosos like accordionist Richard Galliano, violinist Didier Lockwood, and the guitar-picking Ferre brothers, Boulou and Elios. Look for them inside Duc des Lombards at 42 rue des Lombards (01–42–33–22–88 | www.ducdeslombards.com).
The best place to find out what’s playing and even purchase tickets is at www.infoconcert.com or on club websites, some of which offer English versions. Pariscope, Jazz Magazine, and Jazz Hot, available at newsstands, also have listings in French. Reservations can be critical, especially for leading U.S. jazz musicians.
Entrance charges are rarely more than €20 and often less. Some venues have free jam sessions, depending on the night, so check listings. Drink prices can be sky-high, but most table staff won’t harass budget-conscious customers nursing a single drink.
Another way to experience a variety of top-quality jazz is by attending world-renowned Paris festivals that run from early spring through September, including the Banlieues Bleues (01–49–22–10–10 | www.banlieuesbleues.org), the Paris Jazz Festival (01–48–72–32–97 | www.parisjazzfestival.fr), and the Villette Jazz Festival (01–44–84–44–84 | www.citedelamusique.fr).
Word of Mouth
“OK, if I were hip . . . and wanted jazz . . . I’d stay in the 10th and find my way to New Morning jazz club.” —SuzieC
Club Silencio.
David Lynch named his nightclub after a reference in his Oscar hit, Mulholland Drive. Club Silencio, whose buzzwords are secret and mysterious, made a splash from the start. The club, which puts up concerts, films, and other performances, is open only to members and their guests until midnight; after that, theoretically, everyone is allowed. | 142 rue Montmartre, 2e, Grands Boulevards | 75002 | 01–40–13–12–33 | www.silencio-club.com | Station: Bourse, Sentier.
Corcoran’s Irish Pub.
This roomy pub, with several locations in central Paris, has an ample menu, a gorgeous bar, and old-timey photos and quotations on the walls—such as “He who opens his mouth most is the one who opens his purse least.” Conversation turns to dancing at night with a regulated guy-to-girl ratio, so men shouldn’t try coming alone. | 23 bd. Poissonière, 2e, Grands Boulevards | 75002 | 01–40–39–00–16 | Station: Grands Boulevards.
Fodor’s Choice | Delaville Café.
With its huge, heated sidewalk terrace, Belle Époque mosaic-tile bar, graffiti’d walls, and swishy lounge, Delaville Café boasts a funky baroque ambience. Hot Paris DJs ignite the scene Thursday to Saturday, so arrive early on weekends if you want a seat. | 34 bd. Bonne Nouvelle, 10e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75010 | 01–48–24–48–09 | Station: Bonne Nouvelle, Grands Boulevards.
Duke’s Bar.
A favorite not only for its prestigious location between Opéra and Place Vendôme, but also for its worn leather chairs and English private club feel, the Westminster Hotel’s bar offers drinks like the “James Bond” and “Duke’s Martini.” At times you get the feeling that Mr. Hercule Poirot is lurking just behind that wingback chair. | 13, rue de la Paix, 2e, Opéra | 75002 | 01–42–61–55–11 | Station: Opéra.
Harry’s Bar.
Also known as Harry’s New York Bar, this cozy, wood-paneled hangout founded in 1911 and decorated with dusty college pennants is popular with expats and American-loving French people who welcome the ghosts of Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald, who drank himself unconscious here. Gershwin composed “An American in Paris” in the piano bar downstairs and the Bloody Mary is said to have its origins here. | 5 rue Daunou, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75002 | 01–42–61–71–14 | www.harrys-bar.fr | Station: Opéra.
Kitty O’Shea’s.
This ever-popular Irish pub near the Place Vendôme attracts both a posh after-work crowd and salt-of-the-earth types. Authentic trimmings—including stained glass and Gaelic street signs—are decor highlights. A restaurant serves pub standards like fish-and-chips, and rugby games are shown on the big screen in season. Theme nights also run regularly (come Wednesday for quiz night). | 10 rue des Capucines, 2e, Opéra | 75002 | 01–40–15–00–30 | Station: Opéra.
Le Bar Long.
At the Royal Monceau’s innovative bar your mixologist will fix your drink right next to you at the illuminated, Philippe Stark–designed bar. The collection of glasses on the walls isn’t just decoration—you may choose which to drink from. A light tapas menu is served between 6 and 11 pm. | 37 av. Hoche, 8e, Parc Monceau | 75008 | 01–42–99–88–00 | Station: Ternes.
Le Lucien Bar.
This bar, at Hôtel Fouquet’s Barrière, in the center of Paris’s Golden Triangle, offers the kind of bling you’d expect from a designated palace hotel—picture a life-size panther covered in Swarovski crystal. It’s a favorite among the French and Russian jet set, with a lounge vibe and an inviting courtyard terrace. | 46 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–40–69–60–00 | Station: George V.
No Comment.
This newly renovated nightclub is housed in a former swinger’s club and boasts that it has retained the libertine vibe without the libertine ways. Only the trendiest seem to go… and get in. | 36 rue de Ponthieu, 8e, Champs-Élysée | 75008 | 01–43–59–23–95 | Station: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule.
Cabaret
Le Limonaire.
This Old World–style wine-and-chanson bistro oozes Parisian charm. It serves food until 10 pm Tuesday through Sunday before giving way to the singing of traditional French songs of “expression,” with musical accompaniment bien sûr. There’s no entrance fee; musicians pass the hat. | 18 cité Bergère, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–45–23–33–33 | Station: Grands Boulevards.
Clubs
Le Rex.
This temple of techno and house is popular with students and open Wednesday through Sunday. One of France’s most famous DJs, Laurent Garnier, is sometimes at the turntables. | 5 bd. Poissonnière, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75002 | 01–42–36–10–96 | Station: Grands Boulevards.
Scop Club.
Formerly called Le Scopitone and re-christened Le Scop Club in late 2011, the venue hosts rock concerts, electro-rock, and folk bands as well as DJ sets until 5 am most nights. Their motto: “We eat, we listen, we look.” | 5 av. de l’Opéra, 2e, Opéra | 75002 | 01–42–60–64–45 | Station: Pyramides.
Jazz Clubs
Fodor’s Choice | New Morning.
At New Morning—the premier spot for serious fans of avant-garde jazz, folk, and world music—the look is spartan, the mood reverential. | 7 rue des Petites-Ecuries, 10e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75010 | 01–45–23–51–41 | Station: Château d’Eau.
Montmartre
Bars
Café la Fourmi.
One of Pigalle’s trendiest addresses, Café la Fourmi has a funky, spacious bar-café where cool locals party. | 74 rue des Martyrs, 18e, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–42–64–70–35 | Station: Pigalle.
Ice Kube.
Ice Kube proves you don’t have to be hot to be popular: this ice-theme bar in Montmartre isn’t cheap—it’s €38 for the session degustation (entrance fee and vodkas)—but the fur banquettes, aurora borealis lighting, glasses carved from ice, and subzero vodka chamber make for an unforgettably “chill” experience. | 1–5 Passage Ruelle, 18e, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–42–05–20–00 | Station: La Chapelle.
Le Rendez-Vous des Amis.
This makes an intriguing midway breather if you climb the hill of Montmartre by foot. Le Rendez-Vous des Amis has a jovial staff, eclectic music, and a century’s worth of previous patrons immortalized in photos. | 23 rue Gabrielle, 18e, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–46–06–01–60 | Station: Abbesses.
Le Sancerre.
Café by day, Le Sancerre turns into an essential watering hole for Montmartrois and artists at night, with Belgian beers on tap and an impressive list of cocktails. It was spruced up in 2007 but still maintains its traditional old-school vibe. | 35 rue des Abbesses, 18e, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–42–58–08–20 | Station: Abbesses.
Cabaret
Fodor’s Choice | Au Lapin Agile.
An authentic survivor from the 19th century, Au Lapin Agile considers itself the doyen of cabarets. Founded in 1860, it inhabits the same modest house that was a favorite subject of painter Maurice Utrillo. It became the home-away-from-home for Braque, Modigliani, Apollinaire, and Picasso—who once paid for a meal with one of his paintings, then promptly exited and painted another that he named after this place. There are no topless dancers; this is a genuine French cabaret with songs, poetry, and humor (in French) in a publike setting. Entry is €24. | 22 rue des Saules, 18e, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–46–06–85–87 | www.au-lapin-agile.com | Station: Lamarck Caulaincourt.
Michou.
The always-decked-out-in-blue owner, Michou, presents an over-the-top show here. It features tranformiste men on stage in extravagant drag, performing with high camp for a radically different cabaret experience. Dinner shows are €110 and €140, or you can watch from the bar for €40, which includes a drink. | 80 rue des Martyrs, 18e, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–46–06–16–04 | Station: Pigalle.
Moulin Rouge.
When it opened in 1889, the Moulin Rouge lured Parisians of all social stripes—including, of course, the famous Toulouse-Lautrec, who immortalized the venue and its dancers in his paintings. Although shows are no longer quite so exotic (no elephants or donkey rides for the ladies), you will still see the incomparable French cancan. It’s the highlight of what is now a classy version of a Vegas-y revue, starring 100 dancers, acrobats, ventriloquists, and contortionists, and more than 1,000 costumes. Dinner starts at 7, revues at 9 and 11 (arrive 30 minutes early). Men are expected to wear a jacket and tie. Prices range from €95 for just a revue to €200 for luxe dinner and a show. | 82 bd. de Clichy, 18e, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–53–09–82–82 | www.moulinrouge.fr | Station: Blanche.
Clubs
Le Folie’s Pigalle.
Decorated like a ’30s-era bordello, this former cabaret cultivates a decadent ambience, with music that ranges from house and techno to R&B and electro. After-parties hop on Sunday morning. | 11 pl. Pigalle, 9e, Montmartre | 75011 | 01–48–78–55–25 | Station: Pigalle.
Gay and Lesbian Bars and Clubs
Chez Moune.
Chez Moune is the former lesbian cabaret now run by the same team as Le Baron (expect the same strict door policy), with regular DJs and after-show parties that keep the devoted dancing until dawn. | 54 rue Jean-Baptise Pigalle, 9e, Pigalle | 75009 | 01–45–26–64–64 | Station: Pigalle.
Jazz Clubs
Bar le Houdon.
Perhaps a little humdrum by day, Bar le Houdon transforms into a warm jazz venue on Friday and Saturday. The musicians are top-notch and the price is right. | 5 rue des Abbesses, 18e, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–42–62–21–34 | Station: Abbesses.
Craving Steak
Craving steak au poivre after a postmidnight party? Most late-night brasseries and ‘round-the-clock restaurants don’t need reservations. Here are some of the best.
Á la Cloche d’Or.
This Paris classic, whose traditional French dishes satisfied the likes of the late president François Mitterrand and Moulin Rouge dancers (though not together), is open until 4 am every day but Sunday. It also shuts down in August. | 3 rue Mansart, 9e, Montmartre | 75009 | 01–48–74–48–88 | Station: Place de Clichy.
Au Chien Qui Fume.
Au Chien Qui Fume, a picturesque spot founded in 1740, is decorated with droll old master–style paintings of smoking dogs—which explains the name (literally “At the Smoking Dog’s). Traditional French cuisine and seafood platters are served until the 2 am closing. | 33 rue du Pont-Neuf, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–42–36–07–42 | auchienquifume.com/ | Station: Les Halles.
Au Pied de Cochon.
This historic bistro once catered to all-night workers at the adjacent Les Halles food market. Its Second Empire carvings have been restored, and traditional dishes like chitterling sausage and pig’s trotters still grace the menu. (You haven’t tasted pig’s trotters until you’ve tasted them at 6 am!) This place is nothing less than an institution, and it’s open 24 hours daily. | 6 rue Coquillière, 1er, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 75001 | 01–40–13–77–00 | Station: Les Halles.
Grand Café Capucines.
Grand Café Capucines has an exuberant pseudo–Belle Époque dining room that matches the bustling mood of the neighboring Opéra; it serves excellent oysters, fish, and meat dishes at hefty prices, and is open around the clock. | 4 bd. des Capucines, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–43–12–19–00 | Station: Opéra.
Le Bienvenu.
Le Bienvenu doesn’t look like much (notice the kitsch mural on the back wall), but it serves simple French food and couscous in the wee hours of the morning until 6 am. | 42 rue d’Argout, 2e, Louvre/Tuileries | 75002 | 01–42–33–31–08 | Station: Louvre.
Le Tambour.
For wackiness and flea-market charm, Le Tambour wins hands-down. The eye-catching decor includes everything but the proverbial kitchen sink. The food is especially fine here—think onion soup, foie gras, steak tartare, and confit de canard. Open 6 pm–6 am; last dinner service at 3:30 am. | 41 rue Montmartre, 2e, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 75002 | 01–42–33–06–90 | Station: Étienne Marcel, Les Halles.
Le Théâtre Saint-Germain.
This two-story rococo salon, formerly Le Lup, is sultry and intimate, with red velvet and soft lights. The Asian-influenced French cuisine lures the post-opera and theater set, and there’s a resident DJ on weekends. | 2–4 rue du Sabot, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–45–48–86–47 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés, St-Sulpice.
Les Coulisses.
Near picturesque Place du Tertre, Les Coulisses has more character than most late-night restaurants: red banquettes and 18th-century Venetian mirrors make it look like an Italian theater. Traditional French food is served until 2 am, and there’s a club in the basement (open Thursday to Saturday), where dancers work up a late-night appetite. | 1 rue St-Rustique, 18e, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–42–62–89–99 | Station: Abbesses.
The Marais
Bars
Andy Wahloo.
Andy Wahloo has a hip crowd and an Andy Warhol–meets–Casablanca decor. Fans of the ginger-rum Wahloo spéciales relax on oversize paint-can stools beneath high-kitsch silk-screened Moroccan coffee ads, and listen to funky Arabic Raï remixes. Dancing to DJs starts later in the night. | 69 rue des Gravilliers, 3e, Marais | 75003 | 01–42–71–20–38 | Station: Arts et Métiers.
Auld Alliance.
Auld Alliance has Scottish shields on the walls, and the bar staff dresses in kilts for special events. There are more than 120 whiskeys, Scottish beer, soccer, and rugby on TV, and sometimes live music. | 80 rue François Miron, 4e, Marais | 75004 | 01–48–04–30–40 | Station: St-Paul.
La Belle Hortense.
La Belle Hortense is heaven for anyone who ever wished they had a book in a bar (or a drink in a bookstore). The bar litteraire is the infamous spot where gal-about-town Catherine M. launched her vie sexuelle that became a bawdy best seller. | 31 rue Vielle-du-Temple, 4e, Marais | 75004 | 01–48–04–74–60 | Station: St-Paul.
La Perle.
La Perle is a bustling, buzzy Marais masterpiece, where straights, gays, and lesbians of all types come to mingle. The crowd makes this place interesting, not the neon lights, diner-style seats, or stripped-down decor. It continues to pack in some of the city’s fashion movers and shakers from midafternoon on. | 78 rue Vielle-du-Temple, 3e, Marais | 75003 | 01–42–72–69–93 | Station: Chemin-Vert.
Le Trésor.
Le Trésor is lively and sophisticated, with mismatched baroque furnishings in a large space and a chill vibe on a tiny street that’s a tad separate from the sometimes madding crowd of the Marais. | 7 rue du Trésor, 4e, Marais | 75003 | 01–42–71–35–17 | Station: St-Paul.
Max y Jeremy.
An almost-too-cool crowd can be found in Max y Jeremy’s red emberlike interior, drinking cocktails and eating the sultry bite-size pintxos of Basque country. There’s a distinct party atmosphere here, which can spill into the street, especially in summer. | 6 rue Dupuis, 3e, Marais | 75003 | 01–42–78–00–68 | Station: Temple.
Gay and Lesbian Bars and Clubs
3W Kafé.
3W, as in “Women With Women,” is a pillar of the lesbian scene. | 8 rue des Ecouffes, 4e, Marais | 75004 | 01–48–87–39–26 | Station: St-Paul.
Café Cox.
“Le Cox” is a prime gay pickup joint. Behind the frosted glass windows of the fire-engine red hotspot, men appraise the talent. The café is known for its Thursday DJ night, and Sunday happy hour—from 6 pm to 1 am—is always a rollicking good time. | 15 rue des Archives, 4e, Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–08–00 | Station: Hôtel de Ville.
Open Café.
Open Café is a relaxed, packed Marais favorite with a disco-café vibe. Drawing everyone from suits to punks, it’s less of a gay meat market than neighboring Café Cox. | 17 rue des Archives, 4e, Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–26–18 | Station: Hôtel de Ville.
Raidd Bar.
Raidd Bar is popular and friendly, with a darker downstairs bar and potent drinks. The men are hot, and so is the steamy shower show presented after 11 pm—not for timid voyeurs. | 23 rue du Temple, 3e, Marais | 75003 | 01–42–77–04–88 | Station: Hôtel de Ville, St-Paul.
So What! So What! is a happening lesbian bar in the heart of the gay district that welcomes all comers (including small groups of men). The DJ in the tiny basement cooks on Friday and Saturday nights. | 30 rue du Roi de Sicile, 4e, Marais | 75004 | No phone | Station: St-Paul.
Tango.
Tango has carefully safeguarded its dance-hall origins and lures a friendly mixed crowd of gays, lesbians, and “open-minded” heteros. Late-night music is mostly French and American pop, but the DJ plays classic chansons (French torch songs) before midnight—so arrive early to waltz and swing! | 13 rue au Maire, 3e, Marais | 75003 | 01–42–72–17–78 | Station: Arts et Métiers.
Eastern Paris
Bastille/Nation
Bars
Bar Sans Nom.
In the increasing hubbub of the Bastille, the warm, red decor of this cozy getaway exudes a sultry glow, and hip lounge music adds to the charm. A flaming Kucaracha shot will turn up the heat. | 49 rue de Lappe, 11e, Bastille | 75011 | 01–48–05–59–36 | Station: Bastille.
Barrio Latino.
Barrio Latino rocks the rafters for adventurers who love to indulge in Latin cultures from Brazilian to Cuban in the middle of Paris. The quirky four-story hacienda-resto, two dance bars, and top-floor nightclub fuel the devoted who shake to salsa and samba beats all night. The pricey €20 weekend entrance fee includes a drink. | 46–48 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, 12e, Bastille | 75012 | 01–55–78–84–75 | Station: Bastille.
Sanz Sans.
Sanz Sans glows in red velvet and gilt with lamp shades fashioned from cymbals, which the staff clang mischievously. Arrive early on weekends, when it’s heaving with cosmopolitan twentysomethings juicing up for a night of dancing until dawn. | 49 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, 11e, Bastille/Nation | 75011 | 01–44–75–85–24 | Station: Bastille.
Clubs
La Scène Bastille.
With a laid-back, eclectic crowd and an intimate (if uncreatively decorated) lounge atmosphere, La Scène Bastille is one of the more refreshing venues in the club scene here. A variety of theme nights keep this place interesting, especially the “Techno Sweet Peak” and “In Funk We Trust.” Gay nights also attract a lively crowd. | 2 bis, rue des Taillandiers, 11e, Bastille/Nation | 75011 | 01–48–06–50–70 | Station: Bastille.
Le Balajo.
A casual dance club in an old ballroom, Le Balajo has been around since 1936. Latin groove, funk, and R&B disco are the standards, with old-style musette Sunday afternoons, salsa on Tuesday and Thursday nights, and rock on Wednesday. Saturday is ladies’ night with half-price entrance charge. | 9 rue de Lappe, 11e, Bastille | 75011 | 01–47–00–07–87 | Station: Bastille.
Bercy
Bars
Folie en Tête.
Folie en Tête or “Lunacy in the Head,” is a former mainstay of Paris’s ’70s punk scene. The comfortable interior is decorated with percussion instruments, comic books, and old skis. It’s known for world music and jazz, not to mention the traffic light in the toilet that lets you know when it’s safe to enter. | 33 rue de la Butte aux Cailles, 13e, Bercy/Tolbiac | 75013 | 01–45–80–65–99 | Station: Corvisart, Place d’Italie.
FrogPubs.
British-style FrogPubs serve decently priced burgers and fish-and-chips that pair nicely with the selection of locally brewed beers on tap. There are four fun locations in Paris. | 25 cour St-Emilion, 12e, Bercy | 75012 | 01–43–40–70–71 | www.frogpubs.com | Station: Cour St-Emilion | 114 av. de France, 13e, Bercy | 75013 | 01–45–84–34–26 | Station: Bibliothèque François | 9 rue Princesse, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–40–51–77–38 | Station: Mabillon | 116 rue St-Denis, 2e, Les Halles | 75002 | 01–42–36–34–73 | Station: Etienne Marcel | 110 bis, av. Kléber, 16e, Champs-Élysées | 75016 | 01–47–27–88–88 | Station: Trocadéro.
Clubs
Le Batofar.
An old tugboat refitted as a hip (yet reasonably priced) bar and concert venue, Le Batofar plays eclectic music, from live world-beat to electronic and techno. TIP (Stylish) sneakers are recommended on the slippery deck. | Port de la Gare, 13e, Bercy/Tolbiac | 75013 | 09–71–25–50–61 | Station: Bibliothèque.
Le Djoon.
This is not the place to stand around. Le Djoon attracts a devoted dance crowd, and DJs (inspired by the ’80s New York house scene) mix afro, disco, and funk. It’s a taxi ride away from everywhere, but a fun diversion from the normally cramped clubs. Open Friday and Saturday from 11:30 to 5 am, Sunday from 6 to 1 am. | 22 bd. Vincent Auriol, 13e, Bercy/Tolbiac | 75013 | 01–45–70–83–49 | Station: Quai de la Gare.
Canal St-Martin
Bars
Hôtel du Nord.
Hôtel du Nord—which starred in the classic Marcel Carné film of the same name—has been spiffed up but still maintains its cool with a vibrant lounge-bar (and restaurant) scene in the buzz-worthy Canal St-Martin district. | 102 quai de Jemmapes, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 75010 | 01–40–40–78–78 | Station: Goncourt.
La Patache.
Among the bars and eateries lining Rue Lancry, you’ll find La Patache. It has a wide selection of wines and a retro-inspired ambience fueled by a jukebox and candlelight that illuminates the vintage photos on the wall. | 60 rue Lancry, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 75010 | 01–42–08–14–35 | Station: Jacques-Bonsergent.
Oberkampf
Bars
Café Charbon.
Neighborhood bohos are seduced by Café Charbon’s warm wooden Belle Époque charm and floor-to-soaring-ceiling mirrors. The attached Nouveau Casino offers cutting-edge live performances. | 109 rue Oberkampf, 11e, Oberkampf | 75011 | 01–43–57–55–13 | Station: Rue St-Maur, Parmentier.
L’Entrée des Artistes.
Veterans of some of Paris’s best new-generation cocktail clubs, the bar talent here strikes out with a few rarified options that will please both amateurs and aficionados. Small, dark, and in the hip Oberkampf area, the bar feels more like an atmospheric neighborhood joint than a magnet for trendy bar crawlers. Some very good nibbles and a skillful wine selection are just icing on the cake. | 8 rue Crussol, 11e, Pigalle | 09–50–99–67–11 | Station: Filles du Calvaire, Oberkampf.
Père Lachaise
Bars
Flèche d’Or.
A bastion of rock concerts and other musical performances, this venue is just across the street from Mama Shelter, in a neighborhood some like to call the Brooklyn of Paris. | 102 bis, rue Bagnolet, 20e, Père Lachaise | 75020 | 01–44–64–01–02 | Station: Alexandre Dumas.
Mama Shelter.
Hip Parisians make the pilgrimage to visit the Island Bar at this hotel, the happeningest spot around. Beautiful people flock in for solid cocktails, foosball, and even an adjacent pizza bar. It’s always packed, but lines will be out the door on Saturday, when DJs and other international artists perform. | 109 rue de Bagnolet, 20e, Père Lachaise | 75020 | 01–43–48–48–48 | www.mamashelter.com | Station: Alexandre Dumas.
Cabaret
Le Bellevilloise.
This multiuse exhibition space in a hip, up-and-coming neighborhood functions as a bar, dance club, restaurant, and performance venue, with concerts and burlesque shows. | 19–21 rue Boyer, 20e, Belleville | 75020 | 01–46–36–07–07 | www.labellevilloise.com/ | Station: Gambetta, Ménilmontant.
République
Bars
Chez Prune.
Epitomizing the effortless cool of this arty neighborhood, Chez Prune is a lively golden getaway. It offers the designers, architects, and journalists who gather here a prime terrace for gazing out at the arched footbridges and funkier locals of Canal St-Martin. | 36 rue Beaurepaire, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 75010 | 01–42–41–30–47 | Station: Republique, Jacques Bonsergent.
Favela Chic.
This popular Latin cocktail bar took the scene early, forging Oberkampf’s hip reputation. Back behind courtyard gates you’ll find caipirinhas and mojitos, guest DJs presenting an eclectic mix of samba, soul, and hip-hop, and a nonstop dance scene. | 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple, 11e, République | 75011 | 01–40–21–38–14 | Station: République.
Murano Urban Resort.
This bar is Paris’s epitome of space-age-bachelor-pad-hipness du jour with a black-stone bar, candy-color walls, and a friendly staff. It overflows nightly with beautiful Marais culture vultures and is grabbing the late-night buzz with its theme soirées. | 13 bd. du Temple, 3e, République | 75003 | 01–42–71–20–00 | www.muranoresort.com | Station: Filles du Calvaire, République.
Clubs
La Java.
The spot where Piaf and Chevalier made their names, La Java has reinvented itself as a dance club with rock–pop and soul music. It also hosts inexpensive performances by up-and-coming bands. | 105 rue du Faubourg du Temple, 10e, République | 75010 | 01–42–02–20–52 | Station: Belleville, Goncourt.
Le Gibus.
Le Gibus is one of Paris’s most famous music venues. More than 6,500 concerts (including the Police, Deep Purple, and Billy Idol) have packed in fans for 30-plus years. Today the Gibus’s cellars are the place for trance, techno, and especially hip-hop. | 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple, 11e, République | 75011 | 01–47–00–78–88 | www.gibus.fr | Station: République.
Le Nouveau Casino.
Le Nouveau Casino is a concert hall and club tucked behind the Café Charbon. Pop and rock concerts prevail during the week, with revelry on Friday and Saturday from midnight until dawn. Electronic, house, disco, and techno DJs are the standard. | 109 rue Oberkampf, 11e, Oberkampf | 75011 | 01–43–57–57–40 | Station: Parmentier.
Pop-In.
On a back street just off the Boulevard Beaumarchais (which links the Bastille to République), this dark, hard-partying boho playhouse has a pronounced English-rocker feel. | 105 rue Amelot, 4e, République | 75004 | 01–48–05–56–11 | Station: St-Sebastien-Froissart.
Latin Quarter
Bars
Curio Parlor.
Hidden away on a quiet street at the eastern end of the Latin Quarter, this low-lighted speakeasy was created by the team from the Experimental Cocktail Club. It serves that establishment’s same creative libations in an Art Deco setting, complete with emerald velour, curtained niches, and taxidermied animals. TIP Regular Japanese whiskey tastings are offered in the lower-level bar. | 16 rue des Bernadins, 5e, Latin Quarter | 75005 | 01–44–07–12–47 | Station: Maubert.
Delmas.
This bar-café-resto attracts a buzzing student crowd with its comfy leather couches, exposed-brick walls, trompe l’oeil bookcases, and diner-style food. | 2 pl. de la Contrescarpe, 5e, Latin Quarter | 75005 | 01–43–26–51–26 | Station: Cardinal Lemoine.
Long Hop.
The Long Hop is a go-to dive bar for young Anglophones. It’s the perfect place to watch a game in the afternoon or to dance to pop and house music later on with a mix of locals and study abroaders. Extensive cocktails and shots keep the party going. | 25 rue Frédéric Sauton, 5e, Latin Quarter | 75005 | 01–43–29–40–54 | Station: Maubert-Mutualité.
Polly Maggoo.
This convivial hangout is legendary as the student rioters’ unofficial HQ during the May ’68 uprising and is named after the satirical French art-house movie about a supermodel. Weekends are wild, with drinks at the wacky tile bar and live Latino music that keeps the party thumping until morning. | 3–5 rue du Petit Pont, 5e, Latin Quarter | 75005 | 01–46–33–33–64 | Station: St-Michel.
Cabaret
Paradis Latin.
Occupying a building that’s attributed to Gustav Eiffel, Paradis Latin peppers its quirky show with acrobatics and eye-popping lighting effects, making this the liveliest and trendiest cabaret on the Left Bank. It’s closed Tuesday. | 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 5e, Latin Quarter | 75005 | 01–43–25–28–28 | www.paradislatin.com/ | Station: Cardinal Lemoine.
Jazz Clubs
Caveau de la Huchette.
Caveau de la Huchette is one of the few surviving cellar clubs from the 1940s. It boasts the “best boppers” in the city, and packs ’em in for swing dancing and Dixieland tunes. It’s a killer jazz spot for everyone but claustrophobics. The music continues till dawn Thursday to Saturday. | 5 rue de la Huchette, 5e, Latin Quarter | 75005 | 01–43–26–65–05 | Station: St-Michel.
Le Petit Journal.
Le Petit Journal, with two locations, has long attracted great French and international jazz names. It specializes in big-band (Montparnasse) and Dixieland (St-Michel) jazz, with dinner served from 8 pm to 1 am. | 71 bd. St-Michel, 5e, Latin Quarter | 75005 | 01–43–26–28–59 | Station: Luxembourg | 13 rue du Commandant-Mouchotte, 14e, Montparnasse | 75014 | 01–43–21–56–70 | Station: Montparnasse Bienvenüe.
St-Germain-des-Prés
Bars
Alcazar.
Alcazar is Sir Terence Conran’s makeover of a 17th-century Parisian jeu de paume court that features a stylish mezzanine-level bar under a greenhouse-glass roof. DJs and “sound designers” spin mixes into the wee hours every night of the week. | 62 rue Mazarine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–53–10–19–99 | www.alcazar.fr | Station: Odéon.
Bar du Marché.
Bar du Marché is a local legend where waiters wearing red overalls and revolutionary “Gavroche” hats serve drinks every day of the week (they demonstrate particular zeal around happy hour). With bottles of wine at about €25, it draws a quintessential Left Bank mix of expat locals, fashion-house interns, and even some professional rugby players. Sit outside on the terrace and enjoy the prime corner location. | 75 rue de Seine, 6e, St-Germain/Buci | 75006 | 01–43–26–55–15 | Station: Mabillon, Odéon.
Chez Georges.
Chez Georges has been serving red wine, pastis, and beer for the past 60-odd years in pretty much the same caveau that still packs in devotees today. Older students and locals fill sofas and crowd around tiny tables glowing with candles in the cellar bar before grinding to pulsing world music all night. | 11 rue de Canettes, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–43–26–79–15 | Station: Mabillon.
L’Hôtel.
L’Hôtel’s hushed baroque bar is the perfect place for a discreet rendezvous. Designed in typically jaw-dropping Jacques Garcia style, the hideaway has a photo of a louche Keanu Reeves on the wall and evokes the decadent spirit of onetime resident Oscar Wilde. | 13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 78006 | 01–44–41–99–00 | www.l-hotel.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Playtime Cocktails.
The banquettes and throw pillow may mislead, but at this snug little hotel bar “playtime” means choose according to suit. Veteran barman Emeric Aguillar, who learned his trade at the Dorcester and the Royal Monceau, skillfully executes a clever cocktail menu that reads like a deck of cards. Happy hour starts at 6. | 34 rue Buci, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–43–29–07–20 | www.artushotel.com | Station: Odéon, St-Germain-des-Prés.
Prescription Cocktail Club.
This club is brought to you by the owners of popular cocktails bars in London, New York, and Paris—including Ballroom du Beef Club and the Experimental Cocktail Club. So rest assured: the atmosphere will be stylish (think upholstered chairs, dim lighting, and vintage touches), the crowd hip, and the drinks tasty. Located in the fashionable St-Germain-des-Prés, it’s a good after-shopping apéro or dinner option. | 23 rue Mazarine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–46–34–67–73 | www.prescriptioncocktailclub.com | Station: Odéon.
Clubs
Chez Castel.
Chez Castel is the swankiest of private Paris clubs: a three-story gold-and-red-velvet mansion with vaulted ceilings where celebrities like Monica Bellucci and Vincent Cassel cavort far from the St-Germain tourists. Making reservations at the two dining rooms (one more formal than the other) will ease your entry. | 15 rue Princesse, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–40–51–52–80 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés, Mabillon.
Le Montana.
It’s notoriously difficult to get past the doorman at Le Montana: a sleek St-Germain club owned by French nightlife king André (Le Baron). A Studio 54 vibe, Vincent Darré decor, and enormous cocktails make it popular among models, actors, artists, and Parisian playboys. | 28 rue St-Benoît, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–44–39–71–00 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés, Mabillon.
WAGG.
WAGG is tucked beneath the popular bar-resto Alcazar, in a vaulted stone cellar that was Jim Morrison’s hangout back in the ’70s when the Whiskey-a-Go-Go was located here. It’s now a welcoming dance club with state-of-the-art sound, lighting, and guest DJs. You’ll hear vintage disco, funk, groove, and salsa (the last of these on Sunday nights, with classes that start at 3:30 pm). | 62 rue Mazarine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–55–42–22–01 | Station: Odéon.
Montparnasse
Bars
Closerie des Lilas.
La Closerie’s swank “American-style” bar lets you drink in the swirling action of the adjacent restaurant and brasserie at a piano bar adorned with plaques honoring former habitués like Man Ray, Jean-Paul Sartre, Samuel Beckett, and Ernest Hemingway, who talks of “the Lilas” in A Moveable Feast. | 171 bd. du Montparnasse, 6e, Montparnasse | 75006 | 01–40–51–34–50 | Station: Montparnasse.
Le Rosebud.
Step through the Art Nouveau front door of Jean-Paul Sartre’s onetime haunt and you’re instantly immersed in the dark, moody, fourth dimension of Old Montparnasse, where white-jacketed servers and red-lacquered tables transport you into the past. | 11 bis, rue Delambre, 14e, Montparnasse | 75014 | 01–43–35–38–54 | Station: Vavin.
Clubs
Le Red Light.
Le Red Light’s two giant dance floors draw a casual, mixed crowd. Friday and Saturday, from midnight until dawn, expect mainly house and electronic music played by big-name, international DJs. | 34 rue du Départ, 15e, Montparnasse | 75015 | 01–42–79–94–53 | Station: Montparnasse Bienvenüe.
Mix Club.
This massive, self-described “temple of house music” has enough sound-system wattage, blinding lights, and dancing bodies to land you in the ninth circle of Disco Inferno. A Thursday night party is free for the study-abroad crowd (student ID required). | 24 rue de l’Arrivee, 14e, Montparnasse | 75014 | 01–56–80–37–37 | Station: Montparnasse Bienvenue.
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