Tuning

In order for the PID to work its magic, various parameters must be set on the controller itself. Fortunately, the PID controller takes care of the hard parts through a process called “autotuning”; through trial and error, the PID determines its own optimum settings necessary to hold the boiler at the desired setpoint. There are a few parameters, however, which need to be set by hand.

Make the following settings by hand. There are about 50 parameters that can be set manually; I only changed 5.

1. Primary Menu: Press and hold SEL key for 3 seconds. The only item of interest on the primary menu is autotune, which is discussed in the autotuning section below.

2. Secondary Menu: Press and hold SEL key for 7 seconds.

TC (cycle time): I have mine set to 1.

P-n2 (input type): Make sure this is set to 2 for type J thermocouple or 3 for type K.

P-dP (decimal point resolution): Set this to 1 to display temps in one-tenth degree increments.

3. Factory Presets Menu: Press and hold SEL for 9 seconds.

P-dF (input filter constant): This setting filters out quick changes in thermocouple readings and slows down PID responses, which is a bad thing for our application. I have mine set to 0.

FUZY (fuzzy logic): Helps eliminate overshoot. Set to On.

Autotuning is the process where the PID controller determines how output to the heating element affects boiler temperature. After autotuning, the PID sets its own proportional, integral, and derivative parameters so you don’t have to worry about it.

That’s all there is to it. Silvia is ready to go.