The Golden Angel Pancake House

Or coming out of Bento on a wild midwinter

midnight, or later, closing time Ron says, the last

rack of pool balls ratcheted down until dawn,

bottles corked and watered, lights out, going out

the door beneath the El tracks over Clark and Sheffield,

always a train showing up just then, loud, sure

as hell showering sparks upon the snowfall,

shaking slightly the lights and trestles, us

in our fellowship shouting and scurrying

like the more sprightly selves we once inhabited

behind parked cars and street signs, thinking,

hey, should we toss some snowballs? Bull’s-eye,

the beauty of fresh snow in the hands, like rubbing

tree bark to catch that contact high direct

from the inexplicable source, unique however

often repeated, carried along on woolen thumbs

to the next absolutely necessary thing,

sloe gin fizzes to Green Mill jazz or the horror

of Jägermeister at the Ginger Man or

one of those German bars up around Irving Park

where a sup of the Weiss beer on tap is enough

to convince me to forswear my stake in any vision

of the afterlife you might care to construct, say

the one with the photo of the owner in his Nazi

uniform beside a pristine fjord, could be Norway,

1940? Whichever, we’re hungry now, cast out

into the false dawn of snow-coiffed streetlights

embowed like bowl-cut adolescents or

Roman emperors sated on frost, thumbs up

or down to hash & eggs at Manny’s

or the locally infamous Alps, then there’s one

at which I never ate though it looked absolutely

irreplaceable, the Golden Angel Pancake House,

which is a poem by Rilke I’ve never read

though I’ve used its restroom, seen its dim

celestial figures like alien life-forms

in a goldfish bowl, tasted its lonely nectar

in every stack of silver dollar buttermilk flapjacks,

though the food, for all I know, is unutterably

awful, the way it resonates is what carries me

down the swirled chords of memory

toward the bottom of the frosted glass

aquarium of dreams, whatever that means, it’s

what it meant to me coming home those nights

from the Lutheran College after teaching

the Duino Elegies to the daughters and sons

of Minnesota farmers, the footbridge over

the North Branch of the Chicago River, frozen

solid, eddies of whirling ionized powder

around my boots in the bone-cold subzero

that makes the lights in the windows of houses

so painfully beautiful—is it the longing

to get the hell inside or the tears the wind

inevitably summons forth? Homeward,

all the way down Lincoln Avenue’s amazing

arabesques and ethnic configurations

of Korean babushkas and Croatian karaoke

that feeling set upon me like the overture to god

knows what dread disease, that cathartic, lustral,

yes, idiot laughter, threat of tears in the gullet,

Adam’s apple stringing its yoyo to follow

the bouncing ball, as if boulevards of such purity

could countenance no science but eudaemonics,

hardly likely, as if this promethean eruption

were merely one of the more colorful dog-

and-pony acts of simple happiness, acrobatic

dromedaries or narcoleptic dancing bears,

but which I’ve come to see with perfect hindsight

was no less than the mighty strongman

joy himself bending bars of steel upon a tattooed

skull, so much nobler and more rapacious

than his country cousins, bliss, elation, glee,

a troupe of toothless, dipsomaniacal clowns,

multiform and variable as flurries from blizzards,

while joy is singular, present tense, predatory, priapic,

paradoxically composed of sorrow and terror

as ice is made of water, dense and pure,

darkly bejeweled, music rather than poetry,

preliterate, lapidary, dumb as an ox, cruel as youth,

magnificent and remorseless as Chicago in winter.