THE BEAST

I was right on the crest of the Beast—a wave so big that some of the surf pros were having second thoughts about going back out into the swells again.

But not me. I waved to them as they stared at me from shore, amazed at my graceful glide along the craziest wave they’d ever seen. One cute surfer girl waved back, so I did a quick backflip to show her that I wasn’t afraid. That’s when the Beast rose even higher and started crashing down over me, pulling me under and—PING!