JT'S GRILLED CHEESE

Who doesn’t love a grilled cheese sandwich? Like most people, I’ve worshiped this American staple since I was a kid. And I still love it today. A good grilled cheese should be both decadent and simple. My version was inspired by the beautiful grilled cheese made at Hog Island Oyster Company in San Francisco’s Ferry Building. It’s big and gooey and irresistible.

As I’ve said before, when it comes to bread, do as you like, but I still like the commercial white bread I grew up with. Pay attention to the construction and uniformity by layering the goat cheese in between the two cheddars. The combination of two cheddars with an herbed goat cheese provides a sophistication that’s joyfully undermined by the hedonistic sponginess of the white bread.

SERVES: 4

1 cup fresh soft goat cheese, like Montrachet

1 tablespoon chopped chives

1 heaping tablespoon thinly sliced basil leaves

1 tablespoon very thinly sliced scallion, white and light green parts

Pinch kosher salt

Pinch freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons butter, softened

8 slices commercial white bread, like Pepperidge Farm

16 thin (⅛-inch-thick) slices sharp New York cheddar

16 thin (⅛-inch-thick) slices white Vermont cheddar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Place the goat cheese in a small bowl. Add the chives, basil, scallion, salt, and pepper and work it all into the goat cheese using a fork or your very clean hand until everything is incorporated. Divide the cheese mixture into four equal portions and set aside.

In a nonstick skillet over medium heat, melt 1½ teaspoons of the butter. Butter one side of 2 slices of bread, using about ½ teaspoon per side. Place the bread, buttered-side down, into the pan. Place 2 slices of the New York cheddar on each slice of the bread, then 2 slices of the Vermont cheddar. Turn down the flame so the bread doesn’t burn before the cheese melts. Take one portion of the goat cheese mixture and press it evenly over one side of the bread and top with the other slice of bread.

Place the skillet in the oven for 4–5 minutes, until the cheese is soft and melted. Cut on the diagonal and serve.

Repeat with the remaining bread and cheeses to make 3 additional sandwiches.