Caesar salad would be a cliché these days if it were not just so delicious. In this world of hypergarlicky and pungently anchovied dressing, however, I like to go back to the classic incarnation of the salad, when it was a more elegant emulsion. I follow the directions of Cardini, the gentleman who invented the salad in Tijuana in 1924. The surprising fact that no one remembers about this original version of the salad is that it doesn’t contain actual anchovies. Instead, it uses Worcestershire sauce, which is made from anchovies and provides the umami kick.
Mine differs from Cardini’s in that I’ve adapted it to be made in a food processor for convenience and consistency. I’m also using whole garlic cloves instead of the garlic-infused olive oil that Cardini called for. Also, I use raw egg yolks instead of a coddled egg. Source the freshest eggs you can, but raw eggs shouldn’t be eaten by the very young, the very old, pregnant women, or anyone with a compromised immune system.
The salad is truly best when made with the light green interior heart of the romaine. Don’t throw the outer leaves away—just save them for a different salad mix. If you don’t have time to make your own croutons, buy some focaccia, which is already laden with olive oil, and cut it up into cubes and toast it in the oven for a couple of minutes. This dressing recipe is enough for 7–10 people, but if you have leftover dressing, it will keep in your refrigerator for at least a week.
SERVES: 2 AS AN ENTRÉE (WITH ADDITIONAL MEAT, SHRIMP, OR FISH) OR 4 AS AN APPETIZER
FOR THE CAESAR DRESSING:
3 egg yolks
6 medium garlic cloves, peeled and stem ends removed
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
⅛ teaspoon Tabasco
¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ cup plus 2–3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1½ teaspoons red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
½ cup packed grated Parmesan cheese, plus additional for garnish
2 cups 75/25 canola/olive oil blend (see here)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
FOR THE SALAD:
2 hearts of romaine, any dark leaves removed and tops and ends trimmed
¼ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
FOR THE CROUTONS:
2 slices good white bread
2 tablespoons clarified butter
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
Chunk of Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese
Make the dressing: In the bowl of a food processor, place the egg yolks and garlic. Process until the garlic is finely chopped, about 1 minute. Shut off the processor and add the Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, mustard, ¼ cup of the lemon juice, the vinegar, pepper, and Parmesan. Process until completely blended. While the machine is running, add the blended oi and then the olive oil in a thin stream. Don’t be shy; the dressing won’t break. You should have a nice creamy dressing that just coats the back of a metal spoon. Taste and add the remaining 2–3 tablespoons lemon juice to the dressing, a tablespoon at a time, until you’re happy with the consistency and taste.
Make the salad: Cut the romaine hearts crosswise into 1–1½ inch pieces. Place the pieces in a large bowl and add the pepper and Parmesan. Add 5 tablespoons of the dressing and toss until the lettuce is coated. Divide the salad between 2 serving plates (or 4 plates, if serving as an appetizer).
Make the croutons: Cut the crusts off the bread and cut the bread into 1-inch squares. Place the clarified butter into a skillet or sauté pan over high heat. Throw in one square of bread; it should toast but not burn. Once the sacrificial crouton is golden brown, remove it and throw the rest of the bread into the pan. Season with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Gently stir and toss the croutons until toasted and golden on all sides.
To serve: Divide the croutons between the salads. Using a cheese plane or a vegetable peeler, shave thin strips of Parmesan over the salads and garnish with grated Parmesan. Serve immediately, while the croutons are still warm.