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As breeders started exhibiting at dog shows, it was realized that there must be more uniformity within each breed; i.e., all puppies in a litter should look similar as well as be of the same type as their sire and dam. Each breed approved by the American Kennel Club has a standard that gives the reader a mental picture of what the specific breed should look like. All reputable breeders strive to produce animals that will meet the requirements of the standard.

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The breed’s desired conformation, as set forth in the standard, is illustrated beautifully by this fine champion.

Many breeds were developed for a specific purpose, i.e., hunting, retrieving, going to ground, coursing, guarding, herding, etc. The terriers were all bred to go to ground and to pursue vermin. In addition to having a dog that looks like a proper Bedlington Terrier, the standard assures that he will have the personality, disposition and intelligence that are sought after in the breed. Standards were originally written by fanciers who had a love and a concern for the breed. They knew that the essential characteristics of the Bedlington Terrier were unlike those of any other breed and that care must be taken so that these characteristics were maintained through the generations.

As time progressed and breeders became more aware that certain points of the dog needed a better description or more definition, breeders would meet together and work out a new standard. However, standards for any breed are never changed on a whim, and serious study and exchange between breeders take place before any move is made.

LATHY AND LINTY

In the Bedlington lexicon, “lathy” means hard and muscular, supple and tough but not stiff or inactive. The flat ribs give the elbows freedom of movement. “Linty” refers to a particular feature of the coat that only the Bedlington has. The coat is not harsh and it is not soft. It forms a pile that stands out from the skin, is crisp to the touch and has a spring to its texture.

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Ch. Claremont Anchor Man, shown winning Best in Show at Ft. Lauderdale Dog Club under judge Judith Fellton in 1981. Anchor Man was one of the top Bedlingtons in the US that year.

THE AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB BREED STANDARD FOR THE BEDLINGTON TERRIER

GENERAL APPEARANCE

A graceful, lithe, well-balanced dog with no sign of coarseness, weakness or shelliness. In repose the expression is mild and gentle, not shy or nervous. Aroused, the dog is particularly alert and full of immense energy and courage. Noteworthy for endurance, Bedlingtons also gallop at great speed, as their body outline clearly shows.

BETTER THAN THE AVERAGE DOG

Even though you may never show your dog, you should still read the breed standard. The breed standard tells you more than just physical specifications such as how tall your dog should be; it also describes how he should act, how he should move and what unique qualities make him the breed that he is. You are not investing money in a pure-bred dog so that you can own a dog that “sort of looks like” the breed you’re purchasing. You want a typical, handsome representative of the breed, one that all of your friends and family and people you meet out in public will recognize as the breed you’ve so carefully selected and researched. If the parents of your prospective puppy bear little or no resemblance to the dog described in the breed standard, you should keep searching!

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HEAD

Narrow, but deep and rounded. Shorter in skull and longer in jaw. Covered with a profuse topknot which is lighter than the color of the body, highest at the crown and tapering gradually to just back of the nose. There must be no stop and the unbroken line from crown to nose end reveals a slender head without cheekiness or snipiness. Lips are black in the blue and blue and tans and brown in all other solid and bi-colors. Eyes—Almond-shaped, small, bright and well sunk with no tendency to tear or water. Set is oblique and fairly high on the head. Blues have dark eyes; blues and tans, less dark with amber lights; sandies, sandies and tans, light hazel; livers, livers and tans, slightly darker. Eye rims are black in the blue and blue and tans and brown in all other solid and bi-colors. Ears—Triangular with rounded tips. Set on low and hanging flat to the cheek in front with a slight projection at the base. Point of greatest width approximately 3 inches. Ear tips reach the corners of the mouth. Thin and velvety in texture, covered with fine hair forming a small silky tassel at the tip. Nose—Nostrils large and well defined. Blues and blues and tans have black noses. Livers, livers and tans, sandies, sandies and tans have brown noses. Jaws—Long and tapering. Strong muzzle well filled up with bone beneath the eye. Close-fitting lips, no flews. Teeth—Large, strong and white. Level or scissors bite. Lower canines clasp the outer surface of the upper gum just in front of the upper canines. Upper premolars and molars lie outside those of the lower jaw.

NECK AND SHOULDERS

Long, tapering neck with no throatiness, deep at the base and rising well up from the shoulders which are flat and sloping with no excessive musculature. The head is carried high.

BODY

Muscular and markedly flexible. Chest deep. Flat-ribbed and deep through the brisket, which reaches to the elbows. Back has a good natural arch over the loin, creating a definite tuck-up of the underline. Body slightly greater in length than height. Well-muscled quarters are also fine and graceful.

LEGS AND FEET

Lithe and muscular. The hind legs are longer than the forelegs, which are straight and wider apart at the chest than at the feet. Slight bend to pasterns which are long and sloping without weakness. Stifles well angulated. Hocks strong and well let down, turning neither in nor out. Long hare feet with thick, well-closed-up, smooth pads. Dewclaws should be removed.

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Head study of a champion Bedlington, showing both proper structure and proper grooming.

COAT

A very distinctive mixture of hard and soft hair standing well out from the skin. Crisp to the touch but not wiry, having a tendency to curl, especially on the head and face. When in show trim must not exceed 1 inch on body; hair on legs is slightly longer.

TAIL

Set low, scimitar-shaped, thick at the root and tapering to a point which reaches the hock. Not carried over the back or tight to the underbody.

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Correct body structure, showing both grace and musculature with proper proportions.

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Incorrect body structure; back is flat without natural arch over loin.

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Correct forequarters; legs straight and strong, wider apart at chest than at feet.

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Incorrect forequarters; wider at feet than at chest and toeing out.

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Correct head with “top-knot,” no apparent stop and eye giving almond-shaped appearance.

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Incorrect head; not enough “top-knot,” stop is visible, muzzle tends to be snipy and eye gives impression of roundness.

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Correct low carriage and curve of tail.

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Incorrect tail carriage; should not curve over back.

BREEDING FOR DOLLARS?

Are you thinking about breeding your bitch so that you can make a quick, easy profit by selling the puppies? Why not? You know that raising a litter is no work at all—the dogs take care of themselves! Stop right there. Before you start building that whelping box, let reality be your roadblock.

There is no money in breeding dogs. Consider the costs involved: the bitch’s maintenance and special care; the food, formula and veterinary bills for the dam and her pups; the equipment needed to convert part of your home into a kennel, etc. Once you’ve paid for these things (and there’s more!), you wouldn’t break even were you to get top dollar for every puppy, which you won’t! If you’re looking to make money, get a real estate license, become a professional caterer, sell your kid’s toys or grandmother’s china on eBay®—something along those lines. Any of those ventures will prove more profitable, and then you’ll have more money to spend on your canine best friend.

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COLOR

Blue, sandy, liver, blue and tan, sandy and tan, liver and tan. In bi-colors the tan markings are found on the legs, chest, under the tail, inside the hindquarters and over each eye. The topknots of all adults should be lighter than the body color. Patches of darker hair from an injury are not objectionable, as these are only temporary. Darker body pigmentation of all colors is to be encouraged.

HEIGHT

The preferred Bedlington Terrier dog measures 16.5 inches at the withers, the bitch 15.5 inches. Under 16 inches or over 17.5 inches for dogs and under 15 inches or over 16.5 inches for bitches are serious faults. Only where comparative superiority of a specimen outside these ranges clearly justifies it, should greater latitude be taken.

WEIGHT

To be proportionate to height within the range of 17 to 23 pounds.

GAIT

Unique lightness of movement. Springy in the slower paces, not stilted or hackneyed. Must not cross, weave or paddle.

APPROVED SEPTEMBER 12, 1967