Adding a Bedlington Terrier to your household means adding a new family member who will need your care each and every day. When your Bedlington Terrier pup first comes home, you will start a routine with him so that, as he grows up, your dog will have a daily schedule just as you do. The aspects of your dog’s daily care will likewise become regular parts of your day, so you’ll both have a new schedule. Dogs learn by consistency and thrive on routine: regular times for meals, exercise, grooming and potty trips are just as important for your dog as they are for you. Your dog’s schedule will depend much on your family’s daily routine, but remember that you now have a new member of the family who is part of your day every day!
FEEDING
Feeding your dog the best diet is based on various factors, including age, activity level, overall condition and size of the breed. When you visit the breeder, he will share with you his advice about the proper diet for your dog based on his experience with the breed and the foods with which he has had success. Likewise, your vet will be a helpful source of advice throughout the dog’s life and will aid you in planning a diet for optimal health.
FEEDING THE PUPPY
Of course, your pup’s very first food will be his dam’s milk. There may be special situations in which pups fail to nurse, necessitating that the breeder hand-feed them with a formula, but for the most part pups spend the first weeks of life nursing from their dam. The breeder weans the pups by gradually introducing solid foods and decreasing the milk meals. Pups may even start themselves off on the weaning process, albeit inadvertently, if they snatch bites from their mom’s food bowl.
Discuss the puppy’s feeding schedule and type of food with the breeder to learn how best to continue feeding the pup at home.
Quality dog foods are more costly than generic brands, but the nutritional value is well worth the added expense.
By the time the pups are ready for new homes, they are fully weaned and eating a good puppy food. As a new owner, you may be thinking, “Great! The breeder has taken care of the hard part.” Not so fast.
A puppy’s first year of life is the time when all or most of his growth and development takes place. This is a delicate time, and diet plays a huge role in proper skeletal and muscular formation. Improper diet and exercise habits can lead to damaging problems that will compromise the dog’s health and movement for his entire life. That being said, new owners should not worry needlessly. With the myriad types of food formulated specifically for growing pups of different-sized breeds, dog-food manufacturers have taken much of the guesswork out of feeding your puppy well. Since growth-food formulas are designed to provide the nutrition that a growing puppy needs, it is unnecessary and, in fact, can prove harmful to add supplements to the diet. Research has shown that too much of certain vitamin supplements and minerals predispose a dog to skeletal problems. It’s by no means a case of “if a little is good, a lot is better.” At every stage of your dog’s life, too much or too little in the way of nutrients can be harmful, which is why a manufactured complete food is the easiest way to know that your dog is getting what he needs.
JUST ADD MEAT
An organic alternative to the traditional dog kibble or canned food comes in the form of grain-based feeds. These dry cereal-type products consist of oat and rye flakes, corn meal, wheat germ, dried kelp and other natural ingredients. The manufacturers recommend that the food be mixed with meat in a ratio of two parts grain to one part meat. As an alternative to fresh meat, investigate freeze-dried meat and fermented meat products, which makers claim are more nutritious and digestible for dogs.
Because of a young pup’s small body and accordingly small digestive system, his daily portion will be divided up into small meals throughout the day. This can mean starting off with three or more meals a day and decreasing the number of meals as the pup matures. For the adult, dividing the day’s food into two meals on a morning/evening schedule is healthier for the dog’s digestion than one large daily portion.
Regarding the feeding schedule, feeding the pup at the same times and in the same place each day is important for both house-breaking purposes and establishing the dog’s everyday routine. As for the amount to feed, growing puppies generally need proportionately more food per body weight than their adult counterparts, but a pup should never be allowed to gain excess weight. Dogs of all ages should be kept in proper body condition, but extra weight can strain a pup’s developing frame, causing skeletal problems.
Watch your pup’s weight as he grows and, if the recommended amounts seem to be too much or too little for your pup, consult the vet about appropriate dietary changes. Keep in mind that treats, although small, can quickly add up throughout the day, contributing unnecessary calories. Treats are fine when used prudently; opt for dog treats specially formulated to be healthy or for nutritious snacks like small pieces of cheese or cooked chicken.
DIET DON’TS
• Got milk? Don’t give it to your dog! Dogs cannot tolerate large quantities of cows’ milk, as they do not have the enzymes to digest lactose.
• You may have heard of dog owners who add raw eggs to their dogs’ food for a shiny coat or to make the food more palatable, but consumption of raw eggs too often can cause a deficiency of the vitamin biotin.
• Avoid feeding table scraps, as they will upset the balance of the dog’s complete food. Additionally, fatty or highly seasoned foods can cause upset canine stomachs.
• Do not offer raw meat to your dog. Raw meat can contain parasites; it also is high in fat.
• Vitamin A toxicity in dogs can be caused by too much raw liver, especially if the dog already gets enough vitamin A in his balanced diet, which should be the case.
• Bones like chicken, pork chop and other soft bones are not suitable, as they easily splinter.
For the adult (meaning physically mature) dog, feeding properly is about maintenance, not growth. Again, correct weight is a concern. Your dog should appear fit and should have an evident “waist.” His ribs should not be protruding (a sign of being underweight), but they should be covered by only a slight layer of fat. Under normal circumstances, an adult dog can be maintained fairly easily with a high-quality nutritionally complete adult-formula food.
FREE FEEDING
Many owners opt to feed their dogs the free way. That is, they serve dry kibble in a feeder or bowl that is available to the dog all day. Arguably, this is the most convenient method of feeding an adult dog, but it may encourage the dog to become fussy about food or defensive over his bowl. Free feeding is an option only for adult dogs, not puppies.
Factor treats into your dog’s overall daily caloric intake, and avoid offering table scraps. Overweight dogs are more prone to health problems. Research has even shown that obesity takes years off a dog’s life. With that in mind, resist the urge to overfeed and over-treat. Don’t make unnecessary additions to your dog’s diet, whether with tidbits or with extra vitamins and minerals.
The amount of food needed for proper maintenance will vary depending on the individual dog’s activity level, but you will be able to tell whether the daily portions are keeping him in good shape. With the wide variety of good complete foods available, choosing what to feed is largely a matter of personal preference. Just as with the puppy, the adult dog should have consistency in his mealtimes and feeding place. In addition to a consistent routine, regular mealtimes also allow the owner to see how much his dog is eating. If the dog seems never to be satisfied or, likewise, becomes uninterested in his food, the owner will know right away that something is wrong and can consult the vet.
DIETS FOR THE AGING DOG
A good rule of thumb is that once a dog has reached 75% of his expected lifespan, he has reached “senior citizen” or geriatric status. Your Bedlington Terrier will be considered a senior at about 9 years of age; based on size and breed-specific factors, he has a projected lifespan of about 12–14 years. (The smallest breeds generally enjoy the longest lives and the largest breeds the shortest.)
What does aging have to do with your dog’s diet? No, he won’t get a discount at the local diner’s early-bird special. Yes, he will require some dietary changes to accommodate the changes that come along with increased age. One change is that the older dog’s dietary needs become more similar to that of a puppy. Specifically, dogs can metabolize more protein as youngsters and seniors than in the adult-maintenance stage. Discuss with your vet at what age you need to switch to a higher-protein or senior-formulated food or whether your current adult-dog food contains sufficient nutrition for the senior.
Watching the dog’s weight remains essential, even more so in the senior stage. Older dogs are already more vulnerable to illness, and obesity only contributes to their susceptibility to problems. As the older dog becomes less active and thus exercises less, his regular portions may cause him to gain weight. At this point, you may consider decreasing his daily food intake or switching to a reduced-calorie food. As with other changes, you should consult your vet for advice.
SWITCHING FOODS
There are certain times in a dog’s life when it becomes necessary to switch his food; for example, from puppy to adult food and then from adult to senior-dog food. Additionally, you may decide to feed your pup a different type of food from what he received from the breeder, and there may be “emergency” situations in which you can’t find your dog’s normal brand and have to offer something else temporarily. Anytime a change is made, for whatever reason, the switch must be done gradually. You don’t want to upset the dog’s stomach or end up with a picky eater who refuses to eat something new. A tried-and-true approach is, over the course of about a week, to mix a little of the new food in with the old, increasing the proportion of new to old as the days progress. At the end of the week, you’ll be feeding his regular portions of the new food, and he will barely notice the change.
Bedlington siblings enjoy a “family-style” dinner.
DON’T FORGET THE WATER!
For a dog, it’s always time for a drink. Regardless of what type of food he eats, there’s no doubt that he needs plenty of water. Fresh cold water, in a clean bowl, should be freely available to your dog at all times. There are special circumstances, such as during puppy housebreaking, when you will want to monitor your pup’s water intake so that you will be able to predict when he will need to relieve himself, but water must be available to him nonetheless. Water is essential for hydration and proper body function just as it is for humans.
You will get to know how much your dog typically drinks in a day. Of course, in the heat or if exercising vigorously, he will be more thirsty and will drink more. However, if he begins to drink noticeably more water for no apparent reason, this could signal any of various problems, and you are advised to consult your vet.
Water is the best drink for dogs. Some owners are tempted to give milk from time to time or to moisten dry food with milk, but dogs do not have the enzymes necessary to digest the lactose in milk, which is much different from the milk that nursing puppies receive. Therefore stick with clean fresh water to quench your dog’s thirst, and always have it readily available to him.
EXERCISE
The terrier breeds are active dogs that require considerable exercise to stay fit and mentally balanced. Regardless of breed, a sedentary lifestyle is as harmful to a dog as it is to a person, and, with the Bedlington Terrier, more is more when it comes to activity. Nonetheless, you don’t have to be an Olympic athlete to provide your dog with a sufficient amount of exercise. Fortunately, those Bedlington limbs are short and you don’t have to run 5 miles a day to keep your buddy fit. Exercising your Bedlington Terrier can be enjoyable and healthy for both of you. Brisk walks, once the puppy reaches three or four months of age, will stimulate heart rates and build muscle for both dog and owner. As the dog reaches adulthood, the speed and distance of the walks can be increased as long as they are both kept reasonable and comfortable for both of you.
NOT HUNGRY?
No dog in his right mind would turn down his dinner, would he? If you notice that your dog has lost interest in his food, there could be any number of causes. Dental problems are a common cause of appetite loss, one that is often overlooked. If your dog has a toothache, a loose tooth or sore gums from infection, chances are it doesn’t feel so good to chew. Think about when you’ve had a toothache! If your dog does not approach the food bowl with his usual enthusiasm, look inside his mouth for signs of a problem. Whatever the cause, you’ll want to consult your vet so that your chow hound can get back to his happy, hungry self as soon as possible.
Play sessions in the yard and letting the dog run free in the yard under your supervision also are sufficient forms of exercise for the Bedlington Terrier. Fetching games can be played indoors or out; these are excellent for giving your dog active play that he will enjoy. Chasing things that move comes naturally to dogs of all breeds, and the Bedlington is the king of the chase. If you choose to play games outdoors, you must have a securely fenced-in yard and/or have the dog attached to at least a 25-foot light line for security. You want your Bedlington Terrier to run, but not run away!
Bear in mind that an over-weight dog should never be suddenly over-exercised; instead he should be encouraged to increase exercise slowly. Not only is exercise essential to keep the dog’s body fit, it is essential to his mental well-being. A bored dog will find something to do, which often manifests itself in some type of destructive behavior. In this sense, exercise is essential for the owner’s mental well-being as well!
QUENCHING HIS THIRST
Is your dog drinking more than normal and trying to lap up everything in sight? Excessive drinking has many different causes. Obvious causes for a dog’s being thirstier than usual are hot weather and vigorous exercise. However, if your dog is drinking more for no apparent reason, you could have cause for concern. Serious conditions like kidney or liver disease, diabetes and various types of hormonal problems can all be indicated by excessive drinking. If you notice your dog’s being excessively thirsty, contact your vet at once. Hopefully there will be a simpler explanation, but the earlier a serious problem is detected, the sooner it can be treated, with a better rate of cure.
Most dogs, no matter how short the coat, will require some grooming so that you can have a dog that can live in the house with you, who will be a reputable family member, who is clean and who smells nice. Do be aware when considering a Bedlington Terrier as a pet that this is a breed that needs grooming. If the dog is not groomed, you will eventually have a matted dog who will no longer resemble the lamb-like look that appealed to you when you purchased your Bedlington. The plus side of a Bedlington is that, unlike most other breeds, he is a non-shedding dog. However, he does need grooming to eliminate the dead hair, as this is what will mat if not removed.
PUPPY STEPS
Puppies are brimming with activity and enthusiasm. It seems that they can play all day and night without tiring, but don’t overdo your puppy’s exercise regimen. Easy does it for the puppy’s first six to nine months. Keep walks brief and don’t let the puppy engage in stressful jumping games. The puppy frame is delicate, and too much exercise during those critical growing months can cause injury to his bone structure, ligaments and musculature. Save his first jog for his first birthday!
If you are purchasing your Bedlington as a show dog, he will need extensive grooming. This is a skill that is best learned from an experienced individual such as the breeder of your pup. This is also a skill that cannot be learned in an hour or even a day, as it takes time and experience to perfect the well-groomed dog for the show ring.
Since the vast majority of dog owners buy their dogs for companions rather than show dogs, we will assume that you will be doing a pet clip for your dog. This is perfectly acceptable and relatively easy to do, and you will have a dog that looks like the proper Bedlington.
There is some basic equipment that you will need before starting. You will need a grooming table, which is a sturdy table with a non-skid surface covering the top. On this you will have an arm, or “hanger,” with which you will attach the leash so that your dog cannot jump off the table or lie down “on the job,” as this makes grooming extremely difficult. Stop by your local pet-supply store and they will show you what you will need.
You will also need a steel comb, a slicker brush, a sharp pair of barber scissors and a toenail trimmer. Be sure that your scissors are sharp, as a dull pair will be difficult to use and will not do a neat job. You will also need electric clippers with a #15 (or #30 or #40) blade for close work and a #5 blade for clipping the body.
The Bedlington Terrier Club of America offers show-and pet-grooming diagrams and advice on its website (www.bedlingtonamerica.com). Here also is a method of doing a pet trim:
Put your dog on the grooming table and thoroughly comb out the entire dog. Look at a picture of a groomed Bedlington and try to envision your dog in the proper clip.
After your dog is combed out, pick up your clipper and, with the finer (#15) blade, clip the dog’s ears, leaving a little tuft at the bottom of the ears. Then, clip the face, throat, tuck-up, belly and tail. (Note: Cutting against the direction of the hair growth gives a more even and shorter trim.)
Next, with your #5 blade, clip the back of the hind legs, stopping about 3 inches above the hock joint where the leg begins to get thicker. Continue with the #5 blade and clip the front edge of the thighs, the tail root, the whole back, but not the brisket, to below the widest part of the ribs.
Continue to clip the chest and shoulders down to the elbows. The throat and sides of the neck will be trimmed to below the base of the ears, but leave a strip like a horse’s mane down the back of the neck. Comb out the hair on the legs, brisket, head and neck; with your scissors, cut the long hair so that it blends into the clipped areas. Cut the hair shorter on the back of the neck, the elbows and the sides of the body. Trim the hair on the feet and legs, and, of course, trim the toenails with your toenail clipper.
Remember, this will be a bit tricky the first few times you do it, but with each grooming you will become more experienced. I grew up with a Wire Fox Terrier, which my mother learned to groom by herself. The dog always looked like a proper Wire Fox Terrier even though she was never trimmed to the extent that a show dog would be. After a few experiences of grooming, you and your dog will walk down the street and passers-by will say, “Look, that dog looks like a lamb!”
SCOOTING HIS BOTTOM
Here’s a doggy problem that many owners tend to neglect. If your dog is scooting his rear end around the carpet, he probably is experiencing anal-sac impaction or blockage. The anal sacs are the two grape-sized glands on either side of the dog’s vent. The dog cannot empty these glands, which become filled with a foul-smelling material. The dog may attempt to lick the area to relieve the pressure. He may also rub his anus on your walls, furniture or floors.
Don’t neglect your dog’s rear end during grooming sessions. By squeezing both sides of the anus with a soft cloth, you can express some of the material in the sacs. If the material is pasty and thick, you likely will need the assistance of a veterinarian. Vets know how to express the glands and can show you how to do it correctly without hurting the dog or spraying yourself with the unpleasant liquid.
The ear before clipping and trimming.
Cutting around the edge of the ear.
The finished ear.
Puppy tail prior to grooming.
Putting the finishing touches to the tail.
A puppy with the left leg untrimmed and the right leg trimmed.
Scissors are used to neaten up the legs.
The facial hair is combed gently, using a comb with widely spaced teeth.
Trimming the puppy coat with electric clippers.
Use a specially formulated cleaner and cotton wipe around the eyes to clean the area and remove any tear stains.
You should comb out your dog’s coat once a week and give a bath as needed. Your dog will probably need a trimming about every three months and, if you keep up with your grooming, once you have set the grooming pattern you will find that the next grooming will be much easier. Of course, you can always take your dog to a grooming shop to be cleaned up, usually every three months, but you may enjoy the challenge of learning to groom, and it gives you some quality time with your pet.
BATHING
In general, dogs need to be bathed only a few times a year, possibly more often if your dog gets into something messy or if he starts to smell like a dog. Show dogs are usually bathed more frequently, depending on the show schedule and the owner. Bathing too frequently can have negative effects on the skin and coat, removing natural oils and causing dryness.
If you give your dog his first bath when he is young, he will become accustomed to the process. Wrestling a dog into the tub or chasing a freshly shampooed dog who has escaped from the bath will be no fun! Most dogs don’t naturally enjoy their baths, but you at least want yours to cooperate with you.
Before bathing the dog, have the items you’ll need close at hand. First, decide where you will bathe the dog. You should have a tub or basin with a non-slip surface. Puppies can even be bathed in a sink. In warm weather, some like to use a portable pool in the yard, although you’ll want to make sure your dog doesn’t head for the nearest dirt pile following his bath! You will also need a hose or shower spray to wet the coat thoroughly, a shampoo formulated for dogs, absorbent towels and perhaps a blow dryer. Human shampoos are too harsh for dogs’ coats and will dry them out.
Before wetting the dog, give him a brush-through to remove any dead hair, dirt and mats. Make sure he is at ease in the tub and have the water at a comfortable temperature. Begin bathing by wetting the coat all the way down to the skin. Massage in the shampoo, keeping it away from his face and eyes. Rinse him thoroughly, again avoiding the eyes and ears, as you don’t want to get water into the ear canals. A thorough rinsing is important, as shampoo residue is drying and itchy to the dog. After rinsing, wrap him in a towel to absorb the initial moisture. You can finish drying with either a towel or a blow dryer on low heat, held at a safe distance from the dog. You should keep the dog indoors and away from drafts until he is completely dry.
The throat area should be closely trimmed.
The throat after trimming.
Having their nails trimmed is not on many dogs’ lists of favorite things to do. With this in mind, you will need to accustom your puppy to the procedure at a young age so that he will sit still (well, as still as he can) for his pedicures. Long nails can cause the dog’s feet to spread, which is not good for him; likewise, long nails can hurt if they unintentionally scratch, not good for you!
Some dogs’ nails are worn down naturally by regular walking on hard surfaces, so the frequency with which you clip depends on your individual dog. Look at his nails from time to time and clip as needed; a good way to know when it’s time for a trim is if you hear your dog clicking as he walks across the floor.
There are several types of nail clippers and even electric nail-grinding tools made for dogs. First we’ll discuss using the clipper. To start, have your clipper ready and some doggie treats on hand. You want your pup to view his nail-clipping sessions in a positive light, and what better way to convince him than with food? You may want to enlist the help of an assistant to comfort the pup and offer treats as you concentrate on the clipping itself. The guillotine-type clipper is thought of by many as the easiest type to use; the nail tip is inserted into the opening, and blades on the top and bottom snip it off in one clip.
WATER SHORTAGE
No matter how well behaved your dog is, bathing is always a project! Nothing can substitute for a good warm bath, but owners do have the option of giving their dogs “dry” baths. Pet shops sell excellent products, in both powder and spray forms, designed for spot-cleaning your dog. These dry shampoos are convenient for touch-up jobs when you don’t have the time to bathe your dog in the traditional way.
Muddy feet, messy behinds and smelly coats can be spot-cleaned and deodorized with a “wet-nap”-style cleaner. On those days when your dog insists on rolling in fresh goose droppings and there’s no time for a bath, a spot bath can save the day. These pre-moistened wipes are also handy for other grooming needs like wiping faces, ears and eyes and freshening tails and behinds.
Start by grasping the pup’s paw; a little pressure on the foot pad causes the nail to extend, making it easier to clip. Clip off a little at a time. If you can see the “quick,” which is a blood vessel that runs through each nail, you will know how much to trim, as you do not want to cut into the quick. On that note, if you do cut the quick, which will cause bleeding, you can stem the flow of blood with a styptic pencil or other clotting agent. If you mistakenly nip the quick, do not panic or fuss, as this will cause the pup to be afraid. Simply reassure the pup, stop the bleeding and move on to the next nail. Don’t be discouraged; you will become a professional canine pedicurist with practice.
You may or may not be able to see the quick, so it’s best to just clip off a small bit at a time. If you see a dark dot in the center of the nail, this is the quick and your cue to stop clipping. Tell the puppy he’s a “good boy” and offer a piece of treat with each nail. You can also use nail-clipping time to examine the footpads, making sure that they are not dry and cracked and that nothing has become embedded in them.
The nail grinder, the other choice, is many owners’ first choice. Accustoming the puppy to the sound of the grinder and sensation of the buzz presents fewer challenges than the clipper, and there’s no chance of cutting through the quick. Use the grinder on a low setting and always talk soothingly to your dog. He won’t mind his salon visit, and he’ll have nicely polished nails as well.
Part of keeping the ears clean is gently removing any excess hairs that grow inside the ears. The hairs can be plucked carefully, using your thumb and forefinger.
EAR CLEANING
While keeping your dog’s ears clean unfortunately will not cause him to “hear” your commands any better, it will protect him from ear infection and ear-mite infestation. In addition, a dog’s ears are vulnerable to waxy buildup and to collecting foreign matter from the outdoors. Look in your dog’s ears regularly to ensure that they look pink, clean and otherwise healthy. Even if they look fine, an odor in the ears signals a problem and means it’s time to call the vet.
A dog’s ears should be cleaned regularly; once a week is suggested, and you can do this along with your regular brushing. Using a cotton ball or pad, and never probing into the ear canal, wipe the ear gently. You can use an ear-cleansing liquid or powder available from your vet or pet-supply store; alternatively, you might prefer to use homemade solutions with ingredients like one part white vinegar and one part hydrogen peroxide. Ask your vet about home remedies before you attempt to concoct something on your own!
If you will use clippers to trim your dog’s nails, purchase ones made for dogs.
Keep your dog’s ears free of excess hair by plucking it as needed. If done gently, this will be painless for the dog. Look for wax, brown droppings (a sign of ear mites), redness or any other abnormalities. At the first sign of a problem, contact your vet so that he can prescribe an appropriate medication.
EYE CARE
During grooming sessions, pay extra attention to the condition of your dog’s eyes. If the area around the eyes is soiled or if tear staining has occurred, there are various cleaning agents made especially for this purpose. Look at the dog’s eyes to make sure no debris has entered; dogs with large eyes and those who spend time outdoors are especially prone to this.
The signs of an eye infection are obvious: mucus, redness, puffiness, scabs or other signs of irritation. If your dog’s eyes become infected, the vet will likely prescribe an antibiotic ointment for treatment. If you notice signs of more serious problems, such as opacities in the eye, which usually indicate cataracts, consult the vet at once. Taking time to pay attention to your dog’s eyes will alert you in the early stages of any problem so that you can get your dog treatment as soon as possible. You could save your dog’s sight!
THE MONTHLY GRIND
If your dog doesn’t like the feeling of nail clippers or if you’re not comfortable using them, you may wish to try an electric nail grinder. This tool has a small sandpaper disc on the end that rotates to grind the nails down. Some feel that using a grinder reduces the risk of cutting into the quick; this can be true if the tool is used properly. Usually you will be able to tell where the quick is before you get to it. A benefit of the grinder is that it creates a smooth finish on the nails so that there are no ragged edges.
Because the tool makes noise, your dog should be introduced to it before the actual grinding takes place. Turn it on and let your dog hear the noise; turn it off and let him inspect it with you holding it. Use the grinder gently, holding it firmly and progressing a little at a time until you reach the proper length. Look at the nail as you grind so that you do not go too short. Stop at any indication that you are nearing the quick. It will take a few sessions for both you and the puppy to get used to the grinder. Make sure that you don’t let his hair get tangled in the grinder!
ID FOR YOUR DOG
You love your Bedlington Terrier and want to keep him safe. Of course you take every precaution to prevent his escaping from the yard or becoming lost or stolen. You have a sturdy high fence and you always keep your dog on lead when out and about in public places. If your dog is not properly identified, however, you are overlooking a major aspect of his safety. We hope to never be in a situation where our dog is missing, but we should practice prevention in the unfortunate case that this happens; identification greatly increases the chances of your dog’s being returned to you.
There are several ways to identify your dog. First, the traditional dog tag should be a staple in your dog’s wardrobe, attached to his everyday collar. Tags can be made of sturdy plastic and various metals and should include your contact information so that a person who finds the dog can get in touch with you right away to arrange his return. Many people today enjoy the wide range of decorative tags available, so have fun and create a tag to match your dog’s personality. Of course, it is important that the tag stays on the collar, so have a secure “O” ring attachment; you also can explore the type of tag that slides right onto the collar.
PET OR STRAY?
Besides the obvious benefit of providing your contact information to whoever finds your lost dog, an ID tag makes your dog more approachable and more likely to be recovered. A strange dog wandering the neighborhood without a collar and tags will look like a stray, while the collar and tags indicate that the dog is someone’s pet. Even if the ID tags become detached from the collar, the collar alone will make a person more likely to pick up the dog.
In addition to the ID tag, which every dog should wear even if identified by another method, two other forms of identification have become popular: microchipping and tattooing. In microchipping, a tiny scannable chip is painlessly inserted under the dog’s skin. The number is registered to you so that, if your lost dog turns up at a clinic or shelter, the chip can be scanned to retrieve your contact information.
You should research boarding kennels prior to your actually needing one. Meet the staff, see the facilities and discuss such things as costs, feeding, exercise, medical care, etc.
The advantage of the microchip is that it is a permanent form of ID, but there are some factors to consider. Several different companies make microchips, and not all are compatible with the others’ scanning devices. It’s best to find a company with a universal microchip that can be read by scanners made by other companies as well. It won’t do any good to have the dog chipped if the information cannot be retrieved. Also, not every humane society, shelter and clinic is equipped with a scanner, although more and more facilities are equipping themselves. In fact, many shelters microchip dogs that they adopt out to new homes.
In the US, there are five or six major microchip manufacturers as well as a few databases. The American Kennel Club’s Companion Animal Recovery unit works in conjunction with HomeAgain™ Companion Animal Retrieval System (Schering-Plough). In the UK, The Kennel Club is affiliated with the National Pet Register, operated by Wood Green Animal Shelters.
Because the microchip is not visible to the eye, the dog must wear a tag that states that he is microchipped so that whoever picks him up will know to have him scanned. He of course also should have a tag with your contact information in case his chip cannot be read. Humane societies and veterinary clinics offer microchipping service, which is usually very affordable.
Though less popular than microchipping, tattooing is another permanent method of ID for dogs. Most vets perform this service, and there are also clinics that perform dog tattooing. This is also an affordable procedure and one that will not cause much discomfort for the dog. It is best to put the tattoo in a visible area, such as the ear, to deter theft. It is sad to say that there are cases of dogs’ being stolen and sold to research laboratories, but such laboratories will not accept tattooed dogs.
To ensure that the tattoo is effective in aiding your dog’s return to you, the tattoo number must be registered with a national organization. That way, when someone finds a tattooed dog, a phone call to the registry will quickly match the dog with his owner.
HIT THE ROAD
Car travel with your Bedlington Terrier may be limited to necessity only, such as trips to the vet, or you may bring your dog along almost everywhere you go. This will depend much on your individual dog and how he reacts to rides in the car. You can begin desensitizing your dog to car travel as a pup so that it’s something that he’s used to. Still, some dogs suffer from motion sickness. Your vet may prescribe a medication for this if trips in the car pose a problem for your dog. At the very least, you will need to get him to the vet, so he will need to tolerate these trips with the least amount of hassle possible.
Start taking your pup on short trips, maybe just around the block to start. If he is fine with short trips, lengthen your rides a little at a time. Start to take him on your errands or just for drives around town. By this time it will be easy to tell whether your dog is a born traveler or would prefer staying at home when you are on the road.
Of course, safety is a concern for dogs in the car. First, he must travel securely, not left loose to roam about the car where he could be injured or distract the driver. A young pup can be held by a passenger initially but should soon graduate to a travel crate, which can be the same crate he uses in the home. Other options include a car harness (like a seat belt for dogs) and partitioning the back of the car with a gate made for this purpose.
DOGGONE!
Wendy Ballard is the editor and publisher of the DogGone™ newsletter, which comes out bimonthly and features fun articles by dog owners who love to travel with their dogs. The newsletter includes information about fun places to go with your dogs, including popular vacation spots, dog-friendly hotels, parks, campgrounds, resorts, etc., as well as interesting activities to do with your dog, such as flyball, agility and much more. You can subscribe to the publication by contacting the publisher at PO Box 651155, Vero Beach, FL 32965-1155.
Bring along what you will need for the dog. He should wear his collar and ID tags, of course, and you should bring his leash, water (and food if a long trip) and clean-up materials for potty breaks and in case of motion sickness. Always keep your dog on his leash when you make stops, and never leave him alone in the car. Many a dog has died from the heat inside a closed car; this does not take much time at all. A dog left alone inside a car can also be a target for thieves.
