This section covers just the basics on traveling in this region (for much more information, see Rick Steves’ Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol). Unless otherwise noted, you can assume that the information about Austria in this section also applies to Germany (the Bavarian ski town of Berchtesgaden). You’ll find free advice on specific topics at www.ricksteves.com/tips.
Austria and Germany use the euro currency: 1 euro (€) = about $1.30. To convert prices in euros to dollars, add about 30 percent: €20 = about $26, €50 = about $65. (Check www.oanda.com for the latest exchange rates.)
The standard way for travelers to get euros is to withdraw money from ATMs (which locals call a Bankomat in Austria, or a Geldautomat in Germany) using a debit or credit card, ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo. Before departing, call your bank or credit-card company: Confirm that your card(s) will work overseas, find out the PIN code for your credit card, ask about international transaction fees, and alert them that you’ll be making withdrawals in Europe. To keep your valuables safe, wear a money belt.
Dealing with “Chip and PIN”: Much of Europe is adopting a “chip-and-PIN” system for credit cards, and some merchants rely on it exclusively. European chip-and-PIN cards are embedded with an electronic chip, in addition to the magnetic stripe used on our American-style cards. This means that your credit (and debit) card might not work at automated payment machines, such as those at train and subway stations, toll roads, parking garages, luggage lockers, and self-serve gas pumps. Memorizing your credit card’s PIN lets you use it at some chip-and-PIN machines—just enter your PIN when prompted. If a machine won’t take your card, look for a machine that takes cash or see if there’s a cashier nearby who can process your transaction. The easiest solution is to pay for your purchases with cash you’ve withdrawn from an ATM using your debit card (Europe’s ATMs still accept magnetic-stripe cards).
Smart travelers use the telephone to reserve or reconfirm rooms, reserve restaurants, get directions, research transportation connections, confirm tour times, phone home, and lots more.
To call Austria from the US or Canada: Dial 011-43 and then the area code (minus its initial zero) and local number. (The 011 is our international access code, and 43 is Austria’s country code.)
To call Austria from a European country: Dial 00-43 followed by the area code (minus its initial zero) and local number. (The 00 is Europe’s international access code.)
To call Germany: Follow the same directions above, but use Germany’s country code: 49.
To call within Austria or Germany : If you’re dialing within an area code, just dial the local number; but if you’re calling outside your area code, you have to dial both the area code (which starts with a 0) and the local number.
To call from Austria or Germany to another country: Dial 00 followed by the country code (for example, 1 for the US or Canada), then the area code and number. If you’re calling European countries whose phone numbers begin with 0, you’ll usually have to omit that 0 when you dial.
Tips on Phoning: A mobile phone—whether an American one that works in Austria and Germany, or a European one you buy when you arrive—is handy, but can be pricey. If traveling with a smartphone, switch off data-roaming until you have free Wi-Fi.
To make cheap international calls, you can buy an international phone card in Austria or Germany; these work with a scratch-to-reveal PIN code at any phone, allow you to call home to the US for pennies a minute, and also work for domestic calls. In Germany, avoid using international phone cards at pay phones. Because the German phone company slaps on hefty surcharges, you’ll get far fewer minutes for your money (for example, 10 minutes instead of 100 on a €5 card) than if you call from your hotel room.
Another option is buying an insertable phone card in Austria or Germany. These are usable only at pay phones, are reasonable for making calls within a country, and work for international calls as well (though not as cheaply as the international phone cards). Note that insertable phone cards—and most international phone cards—work only in the country where you buy them.
Calling from your hotel-room phone is usually expensive, unless you use an international phone card. For much more on phoning, see www.ricksteves.com/phoning.
To ensure the best value, I recommend reserving rooms in advance, particularly during peak season. In Salzburg, rates always rise significantly during the summer music festival held late July through August, during the four weeks leading up to Christmas, and usually around Easter.
Email the hotelier with the following key pieces of information: number and type of rooms; number of nights; date of arrival; date of departure; and any special requests. (For a sample form, see www.ricksteves.com/reservation.) Use the European style for writing dates: day/month/year. For example, for a two-night stay in July, you could request: “1 double room for 2 nights, arrive 16/07/13, depart 18/07/13.” Hoteliers typically ask for your credit-card number as a deposit.
Given the economic downturn, hoteliers are often willing and eager to make a deal. I’d suggest emailing several hotels to ask for their best price. Comparison-shop and make your choice.
In general, hotel prices can soften if you do any of the following: offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or mention this book. You can also try asking for a cheaper room or a discount, or offer to skip breakfast.
Traditional Austrian cuisine is heavy, hearty, and—by European standards—inexpensive. The classic dish, a stand-by on menus across Austria, is Wiener schnitzel (veal cutlet that’s been pounded flat with a mallet, breaded, and fried; many restaurants offer only cheaper pork cutlets). Variations include Cordon bleu (filled with ham and cheese), and Naturschnitzel (not breaded, and served with rice and sauce). Chicken (Huhn) is usually served grilled or breaded and baked. Pork (Schwein) comes in all forms, including Schweinsbraten (roasted and served with dumplings and sauerkraut). Beef appears in goulash, as schnitzel, and in the Viennese Tafelspitz (boiled and served with vegetables). Fish dishes are generally very good. The Austrian version of Gulasch—a thick, meaty stew inspired by the similar Hungarian dish—is a traditional favorite.
Vegetarians will want to try Eiernockerl (egg gnocchi) and Geröstete Knödel (roasted dumplings). Noodles, potatoes, lettuce, and rice are standard side dishes. Spargel (giant white asparagus) is a must in early summer.
If you prefer smaller portions in this land of hearty cuisine, order from the kleine Hunger (“small hunger”) section of the menu. Salads are big, leafy, and good; a Salatteller is a meal-sized salad. Europeans are passionate about choosing organic products—look for Bio.
Ethnic eateries—Turkish, Greek, Italian, and Asian—offer a good value and a welcome break from Germanic fare. The Turkish Döner Kebab (sliced meat and vegetables served in pita bread) rivals Wurst (sausage) as a fast-food staple.
This region has both great wine (Wein) and beer (Bier). Order wine süss (sweet), halb trocken (medium), or trocken (dry). The wine (85 percent white) from the Danube River Valley and eastern Austria is particularly good. For beer, lager (called Märzen here) is popular, as are Pils (barley-based), Weissbier (yeasty and wheat-based), and Bock (hoppy seasonal ale). Flaschenbier is bottled; vom Fass is on tap. When you order beer, ask for ein Pfiff (a fifth-liter, about 7 oz), ein Seidel (third-liter, 10 oz), ein Krügerl (half-liter, 17 oz), or eine Mass (a whole liter—about a quart).
Service: Good service is relaxed (slow to an American). When you want the bill, say, “Rechnung (REHKH-noong), bitte.” To tip for good service, it’s customary to round up around 5 to 10 percent. Rather than leave coins on the table, do as the locals do: When you pay, tell the waiter how much you want him to keep, including his tip. For example, for an €8.10 meal, give a €20 bill and say “Neun Euro”—“Nine euros”—to include a €0.90 tip and get €11 change.
By Train: Europe’s trains—speedy, comfortable, non-smoking, and fairly punctual—cover cities and small towns well. Faster trains (such as the high-speed ICE) are more expensive than slower “regional” trains. To see if a railpass could save you money—which can be the case in Austria and Germany—check www.ricksteves.com/rail. If buying point-to-point tickets, note that prices can fluctuate (you can usually save money by booking more expensive train journeys online; tickets are sold up to three months in advance). To research train schedules and fares, visit Germany’s excellent all-Europe timetable: www.bahn.com.
By Car: It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US. For tips on your insurance options, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw, and for route planning, consult www.viamichelin.com. Bring your driver’s license. If you’re driving in Austria, you’re technically required to have an International Driving Permit, which is a translation of your driver’s license (sold at your local AAA office for $15 plus the cost of two passport-type photos; see www.aaa.com). Note that to drive on Austria’s freeways, you’re required to buy a toll sticker (Vignette, €8/10 days, €23/2 months, sold at gas stations). Place it on your windshield exactly as shown on the back of the sticker, and keep the peel-off paper—it’s your receipt. Unlike Germany, Austria enforces a speed limit on its freeways.
Emergency Help: To summon the police or an ambulance, call 112. For passport problems, call the US Embassy in Austria (in Vienna: tel. 01/313-390; consular services tel. 01/313-397-535—Mon-Fri 8:00–11:30, www.usembassy.at), or in Germany (in Berlin: tel. 030/83050; consular services tel. 030/8305-1200—Mon–Thu 14:00–16:00 only, www.usembassy.de). For other concerns, get advice from your hotel.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see above). Cancel and replace your credit and debit cards by calling these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa—tel. 303/967-1096, MasterCard—tel. 636/722-7111, American Express—tel. 336/393-1111. File a police report either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen railpasses or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. Precautionary measures can minimize the effects of loss—back up your photos and other files frequently. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help.
Time: Europe uses the 24-hour clock. It’s the same through 12:00 noon, then keep going: 13:00, 14:00, and so on. Austria and Germany, like most of continental Europe, are six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US.
Business Hours: In Austria and Germany, most shops are open from about 9:00 until 18:00 to 20:00 on weekdays, but close early on Saturday (generally as early as 12:00 and as late as 17:00). Most shops close entirely on Sundays.
Smoking Policies: Unlike Germany, conservative Austria has been slow to embrace the smoke-free movement. By law, big restaurants must offer smoke-free zones. Smaller places choose to be either smoking or non-smoking, indicated by green and red stickers on the door. Hotel lobbies, halls, and breakfast rooms are off-limits to smokers, though they can light up in their rooms. Most hotels have non-smoking rooms or floors—let them know your preference when you book.
Holidays and Festivals: Europe celebrates many holidays, which can close sights and attract crowds (book hotel rooms ahead). For more on holidays and festivals, check the national websites: www.austria.info and www.cometogermany.com. For a simple list showing major—though not all—events, see www.ricksteves.com/festivals.
Numbers and Stumblers: What Americans call the second floor of a building is the first floor in Europe. Europeans write dates as day/month/year, so Christmas is 25/12/13. Commas are decimal points and vice versa—a dollar and a half is 1,50, and there are 5.280 feet in a mile. Europe uses the metric system: A kilogram is 2.2 pounds; a liter is about a quart; and a kilometer is six-tenths of a mile.
This Snapshot guide is excerpted from the latest edition of Rick Steves’ Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol, which is one of more than 30 titles in my series of guidebooks on European travel. I also produce a public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, and a public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves. My website, www.ricksteves.com, offers free travel information, a Graffiti Wall for travelers’ comments, guidebook updates, my travel blog, an online travel store, and information on European railpasses and our tours of Europe. If you’re bringing a mobile device on your trip, you can download free information from Rick Steves Audio Europe, featuring a self-guided walking tour of Salzburg, podcasts of my radio shows, free audio tours of other major sights in Europe, and travel interviews about Austria and Germany (via www.ricksteves.com/audioeurope, iTunes, Google Play, or the Rick Steves Audio Europe free smartphone app). You can follow me on Facebook and Twitter.
Tourist Information: www.austria.info and www.cometogermany.com
Passports and Red Tape: www.travel.state.gov
Packing List: www.ricksteves.com/packlist
Travel Insurance: www.ricksteves.com/insurance
Cheap Flights: www.kayak.com
Airplane Carry-on Restrictions: www.tsa.gov/travelers
Updates for This Book: www.ricksteves.com/update
If you’d like to share your tips, concerns, and discoveries after using this book, please fill out the survey at www.ricksteves.com/feedback. Thanks in advance—it helps a lot.
When using the phonetics, pronounce ī as the long I sound in “light.”
| Good day. | Grüss Gott. | grews gote |
| Do you speak English? | Sprechen Sie Englisch? | shprehkh-ehn zee ehng-lish |
| Yes. / No. | Ja. / Nein. | yah / nīn |
| I (don’t) understand. | Ich verstehe (nicht). | ikh fehr-shtay-heh (nikht) |
| Please. | Bitte. | bit-teh |
| Thank you. | Danke. | dahng-keh |
| I’m sorry. | Es tut mir leid. | ehs toot meer līt |
| Excuse me. | Entschuldigung. | ehnt-shool-dig-oong |
| (No) problem. | (Kein) Problem. | (kīn) proh-blaym |
| (Very) good. | (Sehr) gut. | (zehr) goot |
| Goodbye. | Auf Wiedersehen. | owf vee-der-zayn |
| one / two | eins / zwei | īns / tsvī |
| three / four | drei / vier | drī / feer |
| five / six | fünf / sechs | fewnf / zehkhs |
| seven / eight | sieben / acht | zee-behn / ahkht |
| nine / ten | neun / zehn | noyn / tsayn |
| How much is it? | Wieviel kostet das? | vee-feel kohs-teht dahs |
| Write it? | Schreiben? | shrī-behn |
| Is it free? | Ist es umsonst? | ist ehs oom-zohnst |
| Included? | Inklusive? | in-kloo-zee-veh |
| Where can I buy / find...? | Wo kann ich kaufen / finden...? | voh kahn ikh kow-fehn / fin-dehn |
| I’d like / We’d like... | Ich hätte gern / Wir hätten gern... | ikh heh-teh gehrn / veer heh-tehn gehrn |
| ...a room. | ...ein Zimmer. | īn tsim-mer |
| ...a ticket to ___. | ...eine Fahrkarte nach ___. | ī-neh far-kar-teh nahkh |
| Is it possible? | Ist es möglich? | ist ehs mur-glikh |
| Where is...? | Wo ist...? | voh ist |
| ...the train station | ...der Bahnhof | dehr bahn-hohf |
| ...the bus station | ...der Busbahnhof | dehr boos-bahn-hohf |
| ...tourist information | ...das Touristen-informationsbüro | dahs too-ris-tehn-in-for-maht-see-ohns-bew-roh |
| ...toilet | ...die Toilette | dee toh-leh-teh |
| men | Herren | hehr-rehn |
| women | Damen | dah-mehn |
| left / right | links / rechts | links / rehkhts |
| straight | geradeaus | geh-rah-deh-ows |
| When is this open / closed? | Um wieviel Uhr ist hier geöffnet / geschlossen? | oom vee-feel oor ist heer geh-urf-neht / geh-shloh-sehn |
| At what time? | Um wieviel Uhr? | oom vee-feel oor |
| Just a moment. | Moment. | moh-mehnt |
| now / soon / later | jetzt / bald / später | yehtst / bahld / shpay-ter |
| today / tomorrow | heute / morgen | hoy-teh / mor-gehn |
| I’d like / We’d like... | Ich hätte gern / Wir hätten gern... | ikh heh-teh gehm / veer heh-tehn gehm |
| ...a reservation for... | ...eine Reservierung für... | ī-neh reh-zer-feer-oong fewr |
| ...a table for one / two. | ...einen Tisch für ein / zwei. | ī-nehn tish fewr īn / tsvī |
| Non-smoking. | Nichtraucher. | nikht-rowkh-er |
| Is this seat free? | Ist hier frei? | ist heer frī |
| Menu (in English), please. | Speisekarte (auf Englisch), bitte. | shpī-zeh-kar-teh (owf ehng-lish) bit-teh |
| service (not) included | Trinkgeld (nicht) inklusive | trink-gehlt (nikht) in-kloo-zee-veh |
| cover charge | Eintritt | īn-trit |
| to go | zum Mitnehmen | tsoom mit-nay-mehn |
| with / without | mit / ohne | mit / oh-neh |
| and / or | und / oder | oont / oh-der |
| menu (of the day) | (Tages-) Karte | (tah-gehs-) kar-teh |
| set meal for tourists | Touristenmenü | too-ris-tehn-meh-new |
| specialty of the house | Spezialität des Hauses | shpayt-see-ah-lee-tayt dehs how-zehs |
| appetizers | Vorspeise | for-shpī-zeh |
| bread | Brot | broht |
| cheese | Käse | kay-zeh |
| sandwich | Sandwich | zahnd-vich |
| soup | Suppe | zup-peh |
| salad | Salat | zah-laht |
| meat | Fleisch | flīsh |
| poultry | Geflügel | geh-flew-gehl |
| fish | Fisch | fish |
| seafood | Meeresfrüchte | meh-rehs-frewkh-teh |
| fruit | Obst | ohpst |
| vegetables | Gemüse | geh-mew-zeh |
| dessert | Nachspeise | nahkh-shpī-zeh |
| mineral water | Mineralwasser | min-eh-rahl-vah-ser |
| tap water | Leitungswasser | Iī-toongs-vah-ser |
| milk | Milch | milkh |
| (orange) juice | (Orangen-) Saft | (oh-rahn-zhehn-) zahft |
| coffee | Kaffee | kah-fay |
| tea | Tee | tay |
| wine | Wein | vīn |
| red / white | rot / weiß | roht / vīs |
| glass / bottle | Glas / Flasche | glahs / flah-sheh |
| beer | Bier | beer |
| Cheers! | Prost! | prohst |
| More. / Another. | Mehr. / Noch ein. | mehr / nohkh īn |
| The same. | Das gleiche. | dahs glīkh-ech |
| Bill, please. | Rechnung, bitte. | rehkh-noong bit-teh |
| tip | Trinkgeld | trink-gehlt |
| Delicious! | Lecker! | lehk-er |
For more user-friendly German phrases, check out Rick Steves’ German Phrase Book and Dictionary or Rick Steves’ French, Italian & German Phrase Book.