(Vegetales y Mas)
In traditional Mexican cuisine, the main dishes were meats that had been slow-roasted in a riot of spices. Side dishes, on the other hand, were made from the plants and vegetables that grew wild or were grown in the region.
When I lived in San Miguel de Allende, I always looked forward to the weekly tianguis—open markets that traveled around the nearby towns, stopping in each once a week. On Wednesdays, vendors would set up their stalls, laying out baskets of fresh fruits, cartfuls of greens, burlap sacks full of dried chiles, and spices that all called for my attention.
I would ask the vendors what to do with each ingredient. Each one happily cut me pieces of their fresh fruits or let me sample a taste of their soft cheeses, and all of them were generous enough to share their secret recipes.
The women who bought produce from my dad were just as generous in sharing their secrets. They would ask my dad to sell a certain type of vegetable, like wrinkled green chayotes or Mexican zucchini (as opposed to their darker Italian cousins). I would ask how to cook them and not only would the ladies share their recipes, but they would bring me containers of their treasured dishes—warm Aztec Zucchini dotted with ripe tomatoes, roasted peppers overstuffed with melting cheese, and dozens of variations on rice and bean dishes.
Sure, chile peppers and tomatoes end up in a lot of the dishes (like the salsas in chapter 1), but fruits and vegetables are just as regular a part of everyday meals. Freshly steamed corn on the cob—Spicy Corn on the Cob—is sold slathered in mayonnaise, butter, and chili powder from street carts, while every meal has some sort of vegetable or fruit to accompany the meat and tortillas.
Although traditional cooking involves some frying in lard, modern Mexican dishes can be well adapted to suit vegetarian tastes. Take, for instance, the Vegetarian Quesadilla. It can easily be made with any seasonal vegetable, sliced and sautéed, then stuffed in a warm tortilla. Roasted Poblano Chiles can be cut into strips and used as a filling for enchiladas, tacos, burritos, or substituted in many meat dishes.
The side dishes are as important as the main course, so don’t skimp on the beans. Adjust the seasonings in your rice to make it your own and just revel in all the delicious flavors that will make your table that much more inviting.