Nant Syddion bothy sits beside thick forest
Looking through the ’Wales’ section in this book you may be thinking that most Welsh bothies are fairly small affairs – so just to prove otherwise I introduce you to Nant Syddion. Thought to have been built in the 1930s, this massive house is the antithesis to petite Grwyne Fawr-type bothies. Sitting within Forestry Commission land, on a sloping field, it is surrounded by trees on all sides. With a total of four rooms upstairs and two sitting rooms downstairs, a similar property, if transported to southern England, would be worth close to a million pounds – if not more. As it is, this old farmstead is completely free for walkers and mountain bikers to use, proving the true value of such a fantastic network.
Although the house that you see today is relatively new, this site has been home to people since around the early 1500s. It was farmed and habited by local families, many of them miners. The area itself was important for lead mining, particularly in the 1700 and 1800s. Indeed, to this day there are ruins of old buildings and concealed shaft entrances within the surrounding forest and on the hillside, with one entrance going under the forestry track not far from the bothy itself. However, by the early 1900s there was much less demand for home-mined lead, and many of the mines closed. It’s thought that families continued to live at Nant Syddion for a while afterwards, mainly farmers, but the last people left the house in the 1940s. And now, since the late 1990s, this bothy has been in the MBA’s care.
As with many bothies, stories of former residents abound. But of all the stories about this particular shelter, by far the most heartbreaking is that of the ill-fated Hughes family who lived here in 1856. In that year, at Nant Syddion, one Margaret Hughes, who already had a young son and daughter, was celebrating with her husband Isaac after giving birth to quadruplets – believed to have been the first ones in Wales ever recorded. The celebrations did not last, however. It seems that two died that same day, another four days later, and the final one the following day. Tragic as that story is, it doesn’t end there. A week later her son died, five days after that her husband passed away, then four days later her last child, a daughter, died too. Historical records indicate infection, and some sources suggest smallpox or a form of flu. Either way, the loss must have been devastating for Margaret. Some historians say she moved away, while others have it that she killed herself, but no one knows for sure. If after your stay you have time, call in to the churchyard at St John’s in nearby Ysbyty Cynfyn, where the Hughes’ graves can be found.
Upstairs in Nant Syddion
’I’m telling you it’s this way.’
’No – you’re wrong – give me the map...’
’I’m navigating, leave it to me!’
So went the discourse of the Duke of Edinburgh group who were training for their expedition when I arrived in the woods above Nant Syddion. Packed as though prepared for a crossing of a continent, their mammoth rucksacks were a giveaway as I strode up to them and overheard their minor tantrum.
I never did my D of E. When I was their age I had far more important things to occupy my time – mainly dreaming of the day I would be a rock star. For those still curious I’ll confess, that never actually happened, and so now I wistfully watch them learning the ropes of the outdoors – although am secretly pleased I don’t have to travel in groups arguing over who holds the map and compass.
Room with a view: Nant Syddion overlooks the little-explored mid-Wales valley of the same name
Knowing I couldn’t help them in any way – they fail instantly if they ask a person for assistance – I continued past them content that younger people were hopefully getting a taste for the wilder places and happy that over the years my backpack had been fine-tuned into a much more lightweight and manageable load.
The bothy came not long after and for a minute I had to pinch myself – this was a proper country house – it even had an outside loo (with a view) and a nearby pipe from which fresh water trickled. For a minute I was worried that I would be spoilt by this stay and any other bothy would seem like a downgrade, then I thought to hell with it and set about choosing a bedroom. I decided I’d sleep in the main room with the fire then, if more people arrived, I’d claim the smallest bedroom near the back.
A mist crept into the valley before sunset and I kept the door open to freshen the smell of old firewood, moving my chair in front of it to watch the sky change colours. Looking through the bothy book I knew that no D of E group is allowed to stay inside a bothy like this and, besides, I’d already seen their tents back at the start.
As the light dimmed and the flames from my fire seemed to glow brighter in the darkening room, I did what I often do when alone in such a large space – I started to sing. I may not have made it as rock star, life may have had other plans, but to be in a secluded valley like this, and for one night have a four-bedroomed house all to myself, made me feel like a VIP.
One of the storerooms
Birds: The forest around the bothy – Bwlch Nant yr Arian – has been home to the red kite feeding station since 1999. They get as many as 150 kites coming to grab some of the beef they give them – including one rare ’white kite’, so called because of its pale colouring, caused by a genetic fault. Even if you don’t stop in at the centre you have a high chance of seeing one of these birds in the skies over the woodland, so keep a lookout.
History: The remains of Nant Syddion mine can still be spied. Just south of the bothy is the hidden entrance, cutting below the forestry track and passing underneath it; it’s usually flooded with water.
Top tip
Remember to keep the wicket gate on the front door closed at all times to stop sheep coming inside the building. If the bothy is full (fairly unlikely given the size) there is plenty of land outside suitable for pitching a tent.
Classic: The fastest route comes up from the campsite at Tymawr farm. There is limited parking here for a small fee – otherwise there are a few more spaces in the hamlet of Ysbyty Cynfyn. Follow the wide track up to and past the farm buildings (remember to shut the gates). Then climb steadily along the 4x4 track until you reach a kissing gate, which gives access into the forest. Go left and follow the track downhill. Where it forks, turn right and continue downhill. At the next fork turn right to go almost back on yourself, and shortly you’ll come to this large bothy.
Time: 1½hrs
Did you know?
The nearby village of Devil’s Bridge is so named after a legend about a local old woman outwitting the devil. The fable tells of the Devil building a bridge on the promise of having the soul of the first living thing to cross it. Thinking he would get the old lady when she crossed, he was mortified to find that she sent her dog over instead. It’s said that out of embarrassment he left and has never been seen in Wales since...
Longer: If you want to discover more of the forest then consider coming in from Devil’s Bridge (Pontarfynach). From there you can take the footpath that follows the north bank of the Mynach river and then the Afon Merin. You’ll approach the bothy from the southwest.
Nant Syddion essentials
| Maps | OS Explorer 213; OS Landranger 135 |
| Grid ref | SN 773 790 |
| Terrain | Easy-to-follow farm track, then forestry tracks to the bothy through woodland |
| Water source | Stream right outside the bothy |
| Facilities | Two multi-fuel stoves (bring your own fuel – if you use wood there, replace it before you leave from the dead wood left by the MO); saws; shovel; bike lock-up; separate outside earth toilet (bring your own paper) |
| Building | Stone construction, slate roof |
| Inside | Inside there are an impressive six rooms plus two storerooms. Downstairs on entering there are stairs immediately in front of you. The main sitting area is through the door to the left, a large room with a table, chairs and stove. To the right is a kind of kitchen area, with sinks and worktops as well as chairs and a bed frame – there is also a stove and access to the two storerooms. Upstairs are four ’bedrooms’. One had a bed frame on last visit, but this is not guaranteed. The two front rooms are the largest, easily sleeping six or more in each. The smaller back rooms are suitable for two each. If extra space is needed the two downstairs rooms would sleep perhaps as many as 10 between them. |
| Nearby hills | Pen y Garn |