The small but perfectly formed Arenig Fawr bothy
Beyond the town of Bala sits a silent valley of Tryweryn, to which few bother to venture. At its centre sits Llyn Celyn, a massive reservoir that glistens and sparkles in the sunlight. On either side rise up two related peaks, the Arenigs – Fawr and Fach. They are by no means small, but their proximity to Snowdonia’s high mountains means they are rarely climbed – certainly not in the numbers their neighbours attract. Go there now and the lack of sound can be deafening. So it’s strange to think that this was a bustling village as recently as the 1950s.
Capel Celyn was the name of the village that once sat where this water does now. A bastion not only of Welsh culture but of the language itself, the village was controversially flooded in 1960 to build the reservoir that would – wait for it, because this really does add insult to injury – provide the city of Liverpool with water. Despite lobbying from locals and the fact that 35 of a possible 36 Welsh MPs voted against it in parliament (the 36th, in case you’re wondering, abstained from voting), it was allowed to happen. A total of 67 people were forcibly cleared from the area, and the following five years saw the fields and farms decimated as it was built. To make things worse, it also led to the flooding of the Bala to Blaenau Ffestiniog railway line – which was being considered for closure (as were many smaller lines across the UK). Although a promise of a diverted route was made initially, this, sadly, was the final nail in the coffin and the track was closed, never to reopen.
Nowadays a road is the only way in and out of the valley, and the train no longer ferries people in by the carriage-load, making this a quiet and perhaps even lonely place to venture. Although that was a while ago now, and Liverpool City Council formally apologised for it in 2005, memories somehow linger here. Whether in the form of old graffiti that reads ’Corfiwch Dryweryn’ (’remember Tryweryn’), or simply in the silent whispers of the wind, it’s a hard event to forget.
Across the road (literally) from this controversial water site another reservoir, Llyn Arenig fawr, sits. Older (dammed and piped in 1830) and much less controversial – this one provides water to the nearby town of Bala – it acts almost as a perfect mirror to the peak that shares its name. Along its banks sits a small old building (probably used by those who built this dam or maintained it), which is now an open shelter for walkers who decide to venture off the beaten mountain tracks. It’s the perfect place to spend a night and contemplate the fate of this now lonely valley.
Did you know?
Back in the early 1900s two artists were so smitten with this area that they decided to paint it, and the mountain under which the bothy sits appears in a lot of their work as a backdrop. The artists were James Dickson Innes and Augustus John, and you can see Innes’s painting ’Arenig, Sunny Evening’ in the Tate’s online gallery (www.tate.org.uk).
History: If you take the alternative route and head up to the summit of Arenig Fawr you’ll notice a memorial on the summit to eight airmen who died when their Flying Fortress bomber crashed on the mountain back in August 1943. Indeed, some of the wreckage can still be found lying a few hundred metres below it.
Nearby peak: If lingering beneath the flanks of Arenig Fawr has piqued your curiosity about this little-visited range, then after your night in the bothy head north to check out the other major hill – Arenig Fach. Standing at 689m it certainly deserves its moniker (Arenig Fach means ’small high ground’). To check it out head to its north face, which looks the most dramatic, before making your way up to its summit.
Top tip
The land near the reservoir offers many flat sections perfect for pitching a tent.
It smelt like burnt plastic. Someone had obviously tried to burn something here in the open-grate fire and things had clearly gotten out of hand. I had a packet of wet wipes in my backpack and began to clean the black smudges of smoke off the walls and windows.
Outside the sun shone brightly. I’d arrived thinking that a t-shirt would be enough for the walk-in but the wind had forced me to layer up, the cold wind made freezing as it blasted over the reservoir. Now inside scrubbing away at the glass I began to defrost. It annoyed me to think someone had come and caused this kind of mess and then left without even taking their rubbish out.
Cleaning felt good and as I did it I began to lose some anger. The black soot revealed a PVC noticeboard with an extract from a book called ’Lakes of Eryri’ by Geraint Roberts pinned up.
I scanned it as the words appeared before me. It said how this area is rife with legends of the Tylwyth Teg – more commonly known as fairies. Apparently they left a bull calf here that was taken by a farmer. He couldn’t believe his luck and managed to spawn from it a herd of cattle. But, years later, a man returned to this very spot and played a flute to summon all of them to join him and they disappeared into the lake.
The musical theme didn’t end there. It also stated that certain conditions up here can mimic the sounds of piano keys. That description made me pause and listen. I put down my cloth and headed outside. Climbing the little bank I peered out over the homely refuge, past the water and up to the mountain. I noted two people walking on the path. Expecting them to come over to see the bothy I prepared myself for pleasantries, but they never came. The walkers were oblivious to my, and the building’s presence, too engrossed in their own conversation to take in what lay a little off the path. Beginning to feel a little magical myself, I watched as another set of three mooched up the path and never once glanced over to where I sat.
When I finally went back to the building I cleared out the fire and swept the floor. I was lost to my thoughts once more. Someone may have done something foolish in the valley below, losing a whole community in a single act, but hopefully, I mused, maybe lessons had been learned from it. In a same way that someone nearly destroyed this beautiful building through stupidity, hopefully by cleaning up their mess it will mean that the next visitor after me will want to keep this place in the same way they found it. If every one of us took the time to be a more responsible bothy user – every time we visit – then hopefully these shelters will last and these secluded valleys will never be truly devoid of people, remembering the past.
Arenig Fawr bothy sits beside the llyn (lake) and hill of the same name
Classic: By far the quickest and most direct way to access the bothy is via the path that leaves the minor road (itself just off the A4212) above Llyn Celyn. There’s room for parking just off the road on the grass (watch for stones), as long as you park considerately. Then take the wide gravelly track uphill to Llyn Arenig fawr. Once there follow the rougher track above the water until you come to the signs and brickwork of the reservoir. The bothy is just off the path to your left.
Time: 1½hrs
Sleeping platforms don’t come much cosier than this!
Hard: If you have never explored the often-overlooked Arenigs you’re well placed to remedy that by bypassing the bothy on arrival and making your way, via the shoulder of Y Castell, to the summit of Arenig Fawr. From there you can enjoy commanding views over Snowdonia, the Berwyns and beyond. Retrace your steps back to the bothy and enjoy a well-deserved fireside night.
Arenig Fawr essentials
| Maps | OS Explorer 18; OS Landranger 124 |
| Grid ref | SH 850 379 |
| Terrain | Easy wide track up to Llyn Arenig Fawr, then rougher path to bothy |
| Water source | The adjacent Arenig Fawr Reservoir can be used – with care. Do not collect water by the stone walls, but go further down to where the grass meets the water. Otherwise the nearby Nant Aberderfel is convenient too. |
| Facilities | Open fire (bring your own fuel – do not burn anything except coal or smokeless fuel); shovel; two sleeping platforms |
| Building | Stone construction, concrete roof |
| Inside | There is just one room. As soon as you step inside you will see it all. It’s a cosy affair with a beautiful large window that allows in a lot of light, a fireplace and two sleeping platforms (although the floor can be used to sleep an extra person in an emergency). Large enough to sleep two in luxury, three in comfort and four at a tight squeeze. |
| Nearby hills | Arenig Fawr, Moel Llyfnant, Arenig Fach |