LAKE DISTRICT
Warnscale Head
This simple slate-built building offers amazing views over Buttermere
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Warnscale Head bothy blends into the landscape in this slate-mining area

If the theme for bothy locations in Wales is reservoirs, then the theme for England is undoubtedly mining, and this perfectly placed Lake District shelter is no exception. Almost moulded into the mountainside from the slate that’s smattered across the slopes, Warnscale Head bothy sits above the glorious Buttermere valley and boasts a window with a money-can’t-buy view down over it.

Running parallel to Fleetwith Pike, the bothy is located near to Honister Slate Mine, where the search for high-quality green slate has taken place since the 1750s. Although the industry has slowed down significantly since then, and the need for all the old paraphernalia such as tramways, excavation wheels and workers’ lodges high in the hills is no more, the slate mine still makes a trade – although, granted, nowadays it’s more about people coming to try the mine’s via ferrata (fixed ladders and ropes on the quarry walls that a climber safely attaches themselves to) and new rope bridges.

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Heading up to the bothy from Gatesgarth

Thankfully those old miners’ shelters remain in small numbers, and this little bothy happens to be one of them. The MBA advises that its size and construction make it a more suitable temporary shelter or lunch stop than an overnight stay, but as long as there’s only one or two of you there shouldn’t be any problems – and, as there’s a flat space outside perfect for tents, it can be a great wild camp spot too.

Its location is perfect for fans of eminent guidebook author Alfred Wainwright. This flat-cap-wearing, pipe-smoking writer and illustrator was so smitten with the nearby peak of Haystacks that when he died in 1991 his friends and family were instructed to scatter his ashes up at its summit near Innominate Tarn – a fitting resting place for a man who helped so many people to fall in love with the Lakes. Be careful when visiting, as a trip to this spectacular valley, bothy and summit will see you leaving a little part of yourself here with it too...

Look out for...

Innominate Tarn: Beneath the heights of Haystacks is this so-called nameless patch of water. It was here where the legendary fellwalker Alfred Wainwright’s ashes were scattered on his death in 1991. It’s certainly a serene place to stop and think. If you’re intrigued further, once you’ve visited the summit and bothy make your way to Buttermere and pop into the church. There on the window at the rear, on your right as you enter, is an etching commemorating the man that perfectly frames the mountain where he remains.

Nearby peak: If the weather is good and you want to vary your descent route you could try making your way over to the small hill of Fleetwith Pike. The views from the summit are spectacular. On the way down keep a lookout for the white cross (that you’ll have spotted from the road when you arrived). It marks the death of Fanny Mercer here back in 1887.

Did you know?

There is another bothy, owned by the Honister Slate Mine, not far from Warnscale Head called Dubs Hut, which many people mistakenly believe is this one. It’s much larger and even marked on the map; however, it’s not very warm and there is no fireplace, so you’ll need to take plenty of warm layers with you if you go.

I love setting off for a walk near the end of a day. The looks of concern from other walkers at seeing you heading up when everyone else is heading down; the confusion caused when they watch you going off-piste away from the crowd, and the curiosity in their eyes when they wonder just what sort of person you are and just where you are going...

I’d enjoyed many such glances on my way up to Warnscale Head. Being my first visit here I couldn’t watch them watching me for too long, though, as I had a bothy to find and knew this one had the potential to be tricky. I’d done my research before I came, knew it seemingly morphed out of the slate that sat around it, and had read how several people had set off to find it and resorted to camping when they couldn’t. But I was determined.

I had a plan to keep my eyes peeled for the window – because surely the window would reflect the tiny bit of sunlight. Making my way up the rocky slopes I had never felt so alert. Getting closer to the col I felt eyes burning on me, and looked to the left to see a group of five staring at me across the river that by now cut so deep into the valley it was practically a gorge between us. Yet still I carried on.

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Warm and cosy inside Warnscale Head

Soon a faint tracing of years of footfall gave itself away. I took a chance and followed it and soon emerged onto a flat grassy protrusion. The bothy was in front of me. I disappeared from view into the slate room. It may have been dark, but I was instantly drawn to the window from where I could gaze down at Buttermere’s expansive water and – if I squinted – even make out the pub that sits at the end.

Once the crowds had gone from the opposite path, and the sun began to set, I sat outside the structure and watched as one by one tiny lights flickered in the houses in the valley. It began to rain and I pulled my jacket closer. They may have the warmth of their houses, the modern conveniences of a kitchen and a comfy mattress, but I wouldn’t have traded places for the world.

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How to get there

Classic: Park in the pay-and-display area around Gatesgarth. Take the path that heads around the lower slopes of Fleetwith Pike. Where it forks alongside the river that feeds Buttermere, take the path on the right to head steeply uphill. The path crosses a stream, which is straightforward enough as long as there’s not been too much rain. Continue on and before the path levels out at a col you’ll see the bothy disguised by the surrounding slate to your right. Look at the grass and you’ll be able to make out a faint path leading to it.

Time: 2hrs

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Remember to duck when you enter through the tiny door

Top tip

Outside the bothy is a lot of soft grass suitable for pitching a tent. However, if it’s full you may want to take the path and make your way to Blackbeck Tarn – this is a perfect secluded spot for a wild camp, with water right outside and a short walk for great views not just down to Buttermere but over to Ennerdale too.

Alternative route

Hard: There are a number of other routes in that you could take. For one with altitude start instead in Buttermere and head up onto the ridge taking either the path to Red Pike or High Stile. From there continue along it southeast to take in Seat and Haystacks. Contour round past Blackbeck Tarn and then follow the path that curves downhill – you’ll very soon reach the bothy on your left.

Warnscale Head essentials

Maps OS Explorer 4; OS Landranger 89, 90
Grid ref NY 205 133
Terrain Rough but obvious path from Gatesgarth. Becomes faint around Warnscale Bottom, but then presents itself once more. Stick to the zig-zags to get yourself over the wet and loose slate and stones. Higher up, confusion is possible at the river crossing, but follow your nose and you should pick up the path again. It’s easy to miss the bothy in bad weather – it’s easier to see on the way down than the way up, so if all else fails continue on to the col and then retrace your steps, keeping a lookout for it on the left.
Water source Small stream fairly near the bothy – NOT the river below. Head uphill a little to access it – take a couple of containers to avoid several trips in the dark.
Facilities Open fire grate (no fuel – bring your own); two sleeping platforms; shovel
Building Stone construction, slate and stone roof; shell of two rooms before you reach the door; slate bench outside
Inside The bothy has just one room. You will need to duck to get inside – and probably remove your pack too! It’s certainly cosy. There’s an L-shaped stone/slate sleeping platform that will comfortably sleep two – any more would be a squeeze. The floor could take an additional two if needed. There’s one window with a million-dollar view down to Buttermere.
Nearby hills Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks, Seat, Brandreth, Grey Knotts
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