Kershopehead bothy
Murder and bothies are natural bedfellows. Not in the sense that murders happen in bothies, you understand, but in the sense that people often attach horror stories and tales of strange happenings to the wildest places in the UK, which are, of course, where bothies tend to be situated. Among all these macabre tales, however, the one of the murder of a gamekeeper near Kershopehead bothy is actually true...
It all happened back in November 1849, and although I’m connecting it with this bothy, the actual site of the foul play was in fact 2km away from the structure that you will sleep in – but nonetheless... Thomas Davidson, a gamekeeper for Sir James Graham for over 20 years, set out to do his rounds of the land a couple miles from his home. When he didn’t return that evening his wife raised the alarm and a search began. His body was finally discovered two days later. He was found lying face down in blood, strangled by his own neck scarf. Three people suspected of the murder were taken in by police. They were a poacher called James Hogg (who had been fined not long before for his illegal shooting activities based on evidence that none other than one Thomas Davidson had given), his cousin known as John Nichol and a third man called Andrew Turnbull.
Looking out from the main room
Accused and imprisoned to await trail, Turnbull always protested his innocence and was found hung in his prison cell. He left a note once again stating his innocence and firmly pointing the finger at the other two. Perhaps shockingly, when the case went to trial the other two were found not guilty and no one was ever charged. Hogg and Nichols, shortly after being released, mysteriously left the country. Now, to commemorate the loyal Davidson for his service, a stone pillar stands at the very spot where he was found.
It may sound like an unhappy tale, but the actual bothy itself has no strange atmosphere or gloomy undertones. Lovingly kept by the local Maintenance Officer it’s full of quirky nick-nacks, including an old kettle and comfy furniture, and even relics from the past – an old wagon wheel adorns the wall, and bed frames upstairs and down make sleep that much more comfortable.
So the lesson is don’t let a grisly story put you off a place – judging a bothy by its cover, in this case, would mean you’d miss out on one of the best places to sleep in northern England. So go forth and have your own adventures, form your own memories and tell your own stories.
History: As mentioned in the alternative route description, it’s certainly worth the diversion (around 2km extra) to check out the weathered stone memorial cairn to the gamekeeper Thomas Davidson who was murdered in this forest while protecting the land back on 8 November 1848.
Landmark: Further north up the river, on the opposite bank, is the Three Counties Meeting Point, a place where the Scottish Borders, Cumbria and Northumberland all meet. If you’ve decided to come along on your mountain bike, you’d certainly have time to explore more of this huge patch of woodland.
Did you know?
The Kershope Burn that flows a little way downhill beneath the bothy runs along the border between England and Scotland. A little before the bothy it’s actually known as Hobb’s Flow, but it changes its name once it reaches the bothy area.
Inside Kershopehead – a home from home
When I was a child there was a small public woodland behind my house. In the summer me and my friends would spend hours exploring it, making dens among the tree trunks, hanging rope swings from the branches and wishing we could spend the night amongst the old oak trees. But around teatime we always heard our mums calling us back home and our forest adventures were relegated to distant dreams of what could have been.
Now, as a grown up (in age although not in spirit), I get to live out the missions I planned all those years ago. Packing up my sleeping bag and camping stove – and some candles to make a place homely – I spend my weekends escaping back to childhood by heading into the wild and sleeping out under the stars or in abandoned buildings – running away from the mundane responsibilities that daily life brings with it.
That’s why I was particularly excited to stay at Kershopehead. It had all the ingredients for a proper expedition – a gruesome back-story, a house in the middle of the forest and effort to reach it. As I walked underneath the conifer canopy I felt the anticipation growing as I imagined what lay ahead. The confusion at some of the path junctions, made so by work on the forest that had forged new tracks where they shouldn’t be, only served to add to the sense of adventure.
Arriving at the house I felt adrenaline surge through me as I realised that half the building was a shell of a structure and a crow circled above the hole where the window should be. I nervously opened the door, unsure of what I might find, then the familiar scent of wood smoke filled my nostrils, and the aroma of aged paper from old books added to it and I felt as though I was coming home.
The personal touches made me forget the murder and the foreboding crow, and instead I settled down for what can only be akin to a stay in a holiday home, with a warm fire a comfy chair and plenty of reading material.
As I left the following day I felt as refreshed as if I’d been sleeping in my own bed. I followed the path to pay my respects to the murdered gamekeeper and took my time meandering through the trees as a mountain biker whizzed by on the tracks. The sun began to burn even warmer and I didn’t want the journey here to end.
Once I reached the long straight track to the car I spied three young boys coming along it on their bikes. As they got closer I realised that they were watching me nervously. I bade them hello and they started to look less concerned – they had spotted my larger rucksack. When they rode away I looked back and realised that strapped to the back of their bicycle racks were pillows, sleeping bags and camping mats. I couldn’t help but feel contented.
A new generation were discovering bothies, having their own adventures in the great outdoors, rather than rushing back home to play on their computer games or update their Facebook status. They are the reason we all need to work together to retain these shelters, for they are tomorrow’s intrepid explorers attempting to find their way in Britain’s beautiful wild spaces.
The monument commemorating Thomas Davidson, the murdered gamekeeper
Quickest: The most obvious route starts from Kershope Bridge. Follow the forestry track alongside the burn until you finally get to head into the trees just after the bridge. Where the path forks make sure you head on the route that bears uphill slightly, and continue on this to the crossroads at English Kershope. To get to the bothy fast go straight on. At the next fork, head left, then at the final one straight on. Soon you’ll begin to descend downhill a little and the bothy will be on your left.
Time: 2hrs
Top tip
There are not many other places to sleep than the bothy – the land immediately outside is rocky and sloping, so unsuitable for a tent, and the surrounding land is forestry and thick with trees, so impossible to cut through/sleep among. Be prepared to have to abandon the overnight if the bothy is full (given the size and good bothy etiquette, this should not be a common event).
Added history: Follow the route above but when you reach the English Kershope crossroads head right, rather than straight on. Continue on the main path, ignoring any turn-offs. On the map it looks die straight but in reality it does curve – follow it and soon it straightens out once more, heading northeast. Follow it for a little under half a kilometre and, on your left, you’ll spot the monument to the gamekeeper who was murdered on this very spot all those years ago. To reach the bothy from here carry on the path to the crossroads, turn left, then at the next path junction turn right. You’re now on the main path again described above. At the next fork keep straight on and the bothy will shortly be on your left.
Kershopehead essentials
| Maps | OS Explorer 324; OS Landranger 79, 80 |
| Grid ref | NY 544 863 |
| Terrain | Forestry tracks – well defined, but can be muddy and wet after rain and sustained vehicle use. Confusion possible after felling, as new paths frequently appear – keep your map to hand and don’t be afraid to backtrack if needed. |
| Water source | There used to be a spring here, but not any more. It’s best to bring in enough water for your stay. If you get desperate head downhill to Kershope Burn, but care is needed. |
| Facilities | Stove (bring your own fuel; if using wood left in bothy remember to replace it – with dead wood only); saw; shovel |
| Building | Stone construction, corrugated metal roof |
| Inside | There are three rooms. On entering the bothy you are faced with a flight of stairs. These take you up to the main sleeping area, where there is an old bed frame and lots of floor space – would sleep 10 comfortably (although remember that groups of more than six must seek permission from the landowner/MBA first). The door to your right leads into the main sitting area, where there is also a bed frame. There are several chairs, tables and benches, and it is kept immaculately, with historical points of interest on the wall. Another door leads to a small kitchen area and even a mini-library of outdoor books and magazines (if you take one, replace it – or better yet bring one to donate). The far left of the building is left empty/for storage and is unsuitable for a stay. |
| Nearby hills | Glendhu Hill, Black Knowe, Wilson’s Pike |