RESOURCES

Clickable links for all these resources, and many more, can be found online at my Pinterest site (Shirtmaking with DPC) and my website (www.shirtmakingwithdpc.com).

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION

My previous books and videos on shirtmaking are available wherever books and videos are sold. The first, Shirtmaking, covers the construction of a classic dress shirt in great detail and only turning to other styles briefly in the final chapter. The specific techniques I developed for this book are shown in the DVD Shirtmaking Techniques, both from The Taunton Press.

The Shirtmaking Workbook, from Creative Publishing International, covers—and provides many full-size downloadable patterns—the details for a wide range of shirt styles, from dress and sport to knit and folk shirts, including shirt jackets. Extensive construction details are also offered as downloadable pdf documents. Many of these techniques and a few patterns are also available in my Craftsy class “Shirtmaking Details: Beyond the Basics.” Neither of these resources cover fitting, however. Other Craftsy classes pertinent to the topics in this book include “The Classic Tailored Shirt,” by Pam Howard, “Sew Better, Sew Faster, Shirtmaking,” by Janet Pray, and “Customize Your Dress Form,” by Judy Jackson. There are many other pattern-fitting classes at Craftsy, but none to-date cover draping to fit.

There are of course many mostly free online resources on all aspects of shirtmaking, although again, none that I know of on draping to fit. An excellent collection of these is at www.curvysewingcollective.com/round-up-of-shirt-making-technique-resources-online

DRAPING AND PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

The gingham and solid fabrics I used for all the draping demonstrations shown in this book were bought from www.fabric.com. Search for Richcheck Gingham, and Premium Broadcloth to locate the exact items.

I always prefer poly/cotton-blend 60" (152 cm) wide ginghams for initial draping tests, typically tearing off a 20" or 24" (50 or 60 cm) length across the entire width of the unwashed, pressed yardage for each project, from which I’ve been able to cut both front and back draping rectangles for all the forms shown in this book. I bought several colors of the all-cotton 42" (107 cm) Premium Broadcloth for construction demos, but I found it to be good for crisp-fabric draping tests as well, as it has virtually no stretch. I don’t wash this stuff either. There’s nothing special about either fabric, but they’re easy to find and well-priced, plus occasionally on sale at a good discount. My wide-striped blue and taupe yoke fabric is an upholstery-weight cotton I’ve had around forever.

My preferred pattern papers include 27" x 34" (70 x 85 cm) Easel Pads for medium-weight durability, a useful size and easy storage without rolling, which I mostly use for garment pin-tracing and detail drafting of large pattern pieces for specific designs. For smaller pieces, easy pencil-tracing, and less-durable needs, I also keep on hand a roll of translucent, inexpensive 21"-wide (53 cm) Medical Pattern Paper. Both italicized names are good search terms at online retailers.

Saral brand washable tracing carbon works well and comes in rolls and various colors for large projects. I wish I had a good source for large waxed-carbon sheets.

Ordinary poster and foam-core boards are easier to buy as single sheets locally. Online, I find them usually sold in packs, which can be expensive if in a wider range of sizes. The poster board is for cutting out precise pressing templates (manila file folders work well, too). Foam core is for sliding underneath the top easel-pad sheet when pin-tracing, although corrugated cardboard can work as well in a pinch. Tape two small foam-core sheets together if necessary to get complete coverage.

I depend on several colors and sizes of permanent marker, such as Sharpie brand, my usual choice. The fat ones are perfect for bleed-through marking on double fabric layers, the thin ones are better for precision permanent drawing on fabric or paper, although I usually prefer ordinary graphite pencils for paper.

My favorite curved rulers and measuring wheels come from SA Curve. Go online and search at www.etsy.com for SA Curve or LunaGrafixCo.