Grouting Your Project Grout is a cement-based material (like mortar, but made with a much finer sand) that is used to fill in the gaps between glued tiles and found objects. There are hundreds of colors to choose from; I find that many of the colors I choose are readily available in powdered form. You can mix your own grout colors, if you want to, by adding grout pigments or artist’s acrylics. Experimenting is always good. Just make sure to whip up enough of your custom color the first time. Somehow, you never can quite come up with the same color twice.

An Important Grout Rule

Do not allow grout, wet or dry, to come in contact with drains or commodes.

Grout color is a matter of personal preference and will completely change the final look of your project. The best choices include dark gray, shades of dark brown, off-white, and black. Keep in mind that a grout color that is very similar to the object colors will blend with the design and may not give you the “pop” you’re looking for.

Fact: Grout can be up to two shades darker when wet.

There are two types of grout: sanded and unsanded.

1. Sanded grout is best used for tile projects with ⅛-inch or larger gaps.
2. Unsanded grout is suggested for gaps smaller than ⅛ inch.

You’ll find premixed groutadhesive combination products at your local home improvement store. While they look appealing, a way to save time and money, I do not recommend these products. They are great as an adhesive but a real mess to grout with. However, I do recommend mixing your grout with a latex additive in lieu of water, for more flexibility.

Grout can be mixed in a variety of bowls, buckets, old cans, and Ziploc bags. I prefer to mix smaller quantities of grout in Ziploc bags. It’s so much easier to thoroughly mix, keep wet, and dispose of! Mixed grout cannot be reused.

Gloves and a facemask should always be worn when mixing powdered grout.

Grout should be mixed with water or a grout additive to a consistency close to that of peanut butter and not quite that of oatmeal.

Leftover grout should never be washed down any drain or emptied into a water source. This can prove to be a very costly mistake. Grout can be disposed of in your regular garbage.

A little bit of pre-grouting advice: it’s best to get into the habit of protecting all delicate areas that shouldn’t be exposed to grout, such as jewelry, metals, wood pieces, pearls, and the like. Painter’s tape (blue masking tape) seems to be the easiest solution. It just takes a few minutes and is certainly worth the extra time you save in cleanup alone. Plus, you’ll be protecting precious metals, wood, and beautiful jewels from being permanently discolored. It’s better to be safe than sorry. You’ll be glad you did!

Mixing Grout

1. Scoop about 1½ to 2 cups of grout into a plastic bag.

   

2. Start by adding small amounts of water and blend.

   

3. Knead the grout to moisten. Make sure to shake down the corners.

   

4. Add water by the tablespoon, as needed. Grout too wet? Add a little more grout.
5. Keep kneading. Add water as needed.
6. When the grout has reached a “almost peanut butter, not quite oatmeal” consistency, let it set up for a minute or two.
7. Knead it again and you’re ready to start grouting!

Grouting Your Project

You should always wear gloves when applying grout.

1. Take a handful of grout and start to push it gently into the gaps of your piece.

   

2. Keep filling gaps, smoothing as you go.

   

3. Don’t get carried away. Just cover the pieces with grout, making sure that all of the cracks and crevices are filled.

   

4. Build up the grout around extruded objects for a more secure hold.

   

   If your grout starts to crumble, don’t add more water—it may crack when dry. Mix a new batch and start again.

5. Smaller projects can be grouted completely before removing grout. Larger projects should be grouted in sections to help keep cleanup somewhat easier. The drier the grout, the harder you have to work to get it off.
6. Once the project is covered with grout and all gaps have been filled, grab a roll of paper towels and rip off a few sheets to start the cleanup.
7. Start rubbing the excess grout away from the surface with the paper towel. Use a new paper towel as often as you need one.

   

8. Keep wiping, cleaning, and removing excess grout. You will eventually get it all off.

   

   If an object that you have glued becomes dislodged during the grouting process, remove it. Clean the excess grout from the piece and the area. Wait until you’ve finished grouting to try to repair that area. Grab your adhesive and glue the object back in place. Grout is not an adhesive, so don’t skip the glue. Let it set up for a short time, then carefully, using the same grout as before, push it gently into the repaired area. Be careful. Don’t fuss with it. Just let it be. Patience!

9. You can use a wooden skewer or other pointed object to remove additional grout around the piece, exposing more of the item. This is a matter of personal choice and should be a gentle process that is best done with, again, patience.

   

10. Keep smoothing, pressing, and wiping.

    

11. Inspect the piece to make sure that all of the crevices, holes, and gaps have been filled. If not, press a little more grout into those areas. Smooth and clean.
12. When the piece is clean and you are satisfied that everything has been uncovered, remove the painter’s tape from the delicate areas and let the grout dry.

    

13. Mix equal parts vinegar and water. Dampen, don’t soak, a paper towel or soft sponge. Carefully start to clean off the grout haze that may have developed.
14. Let the piece set up a bit. Continue to wipe down with the vinegar and water mixture every so often. The grout will eventually settle and stop shedding.
15. Grout appears to be dry in a few hours but it can take up to three days to completely dry. This really depends on the environment and the size of the project.

    For projects used in a functional capacity, or outdoors, it’s recommended that the grout be sealed with a silicone sealant when completely dry, to prevent moisture from getting in and staining the project.

16. Any sharp edges that remain should be smoothed with a Dremel tool after the grout has completely dried.