POTATO CROQUETTES

(Crocchè di Patate)

Serves 6

1.25 kg/2½ lb potatoes

2 egg yolks

50 g/2 oz grated caciocavallo or pecorino cheese

1 garlic clove, minced very fine

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, very finely minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pieces of anchovy fillets, fresh caciocavallo, diced salami (optional)

50 g/2 oz flour

2 egg whites, beaten lightly

125 g/4 oz dried breadcrumbs

Vegetable oil for frying

Peel the potatoes. Cook in boiling salted water until tender, then pass through a ricer or food mill. Mix in the egg yolks, grated cheese, garlic, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Blend well, and shape the potatoes into small finger-shaped croquettes about 2 cm/¾ inch in diameter and 5 cm/2 inches long. Although it is a deviation from the classic cazzillo, my mother-in-law used to hide a piece of anchovy or cheese or salami in the middle of each croquette, an innovation that everyone approved of.

Dredge the croquettes in flour, then dip in the egg whites, then in the breadcrumbs, binding them well. Fry, a few at a time, in abundant and very hot (190C/375F) vegetable oil until they are a deep golden brown.

A much more delicate version of these—perhaps the fruit of a monzù’s elaboration—and not to be found in the fryshops, should be served together with calf ’s brains and rice croquettes in an aristocratic fritto misto.