The strip of sand between Pedregalejo and El Palo beachfront, only 10 minutes east of the city of Málaga, is famous for its ‘walk of seafood’. We go there for the simple but fabulous restaurants, and for the best and freshest sardines you are ever likely to eat from the many improvised coal-fired barbecues along the way.

Stuffed sardines

Sardinas rellenas

SERVES 4

olive oil

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

¼ preserved lemon, flesh discarded, rind rinsed and finely chopped

2 handfuls cooked couscous, made from 95 g (3¼ oz/½ cup) uncooked couscous, or fresh breadcrumbs

12 large sardines, butterflied (see How to clean & prepare seafood)

Preheat the oven to 240°C (475°F/Gas Mark 8). Splash a large dash of olive oil into the base of a baking dish. Set aside.

Combine the garlic, parsley, preserved lemon and couscous in a large bowl and mix to combine. Set aside.

Season the flesh side of each sardine fillet. Put half of the sardines into the baking dish, skin side down. Spoon some filling onto each fillet, then top with another sardine, skin side up.

Bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 8 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.