Basque fishermen’s stew with salmon

Marmitako de salmón

This dish is typically made with chunks of yellowfin tuna or bonito and was traditionally prepared on boats by fishermen. The first time I tried it was as an extremely privileged guest at Sydney’s very own Txoco, or secret Basque cooking club. Basque men have been meeting at these clandestine clubs to play cards, dominoes and sports, to drink together and, of course, to share recipes, for many decades. It’s a private world that has only recently been opened to women who, for the most part, are now allowed to become members. The general public, however, will have to remain in the dark, I’m afraid.

SERVES 4

olive oil, for frying

1 large brown onion, finely diced

1 teaspoon sea salt flakes

1 large ripe tomato, coarsely chopped

1 small red capsicum (pepper), finely diced

1 long green pepper, finely diced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) fish stock

2 large desiree potatoes, peeled (see method for chopping instructions)

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) salmon fillet, skinless, pinboned and cut into large chunks

1 teaspoon dried chilli flakes (optional)

Heat a large saucepan with a dash of the olive oil over medium heat. Sauté the onion and salt for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the tomato, capsicum, green pepper and garlic and cook for 2–3 minutes. Add the paprika and cook for 1 minute. Add the stock and bring to the boil.

Add the potato to the stock, using the following traditional technique known in Spanish as cachear. Hold the potato in one hand and insert a paring knife as if you were going to chop off a chunk, but stop just before you cut the whole way through, then snap off the chunk. This method helps to release the potato starch and thicken the stew.

Cook at a medium simmer for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are still firm but cooked through. Add the fish, turn off the heat and leave to cook in the residual heat for 5 minutes.

To serve, ladle into bowls and sprinkle with the chilli flakes, if desired.