The Out Islands

Beyond Nassau and Freeport lie the 13 inhabited islands or island groups that make up the Out Islands of The Bahamas. These are the Abacos, Andros, Eleuthera, Cat Island, Long Island, Bimini, the Berry Islands, Crooked Island, San Salvador, the Inaguas, the Exumas, Ragged Island and Rum Cay. They are magical places, each with a character all its own. It's here in these tiny backwater paradises that adventures really begin. This is the land of the treasure hunter, scuba diver, beachcomber, explorer and hiker. It's where the old world ends and the new one begins, a land of emerald seas, snow-white sands and mysterious blue holes, where you can wander deserted beaches for hours on end and never set eyes on another living soul. Although there are no shopping malls, night clubs, casinos or any of the other major attractions that lure visitors to the two main islands of the Bahamas, life goes on here much as it has for more than 300 years, quietly, unchanged.

These are the islands of romance where couples can leave the bustling mainland and all its distractions behind. Sunshine, warm breezes, tropical drinks, soft music and solitude make for an unforgettable experience. If, after a week together here in the Out Islands, you don't get to know one another intimately, you never will.

Dotted around the Out Islands are a dozen or so resorts (some more deserving of the title than others) and perhaps five times as many small hotels and B&Bs. Accommodations run the gamut from spartan to delightful and almost luxurious. Don't expect all the modern conveniences here: telephones and televisions are rarities. Air-conditioning is available almost everywhere, but be sure you confirm before you book. The absence of climate control in your room, if you're not prepared for it, can be a vacation breaker.

Upscale restaurants and fine dining, as we know them, are the exception rather than the rule, but these islands do boast of some of the best little holes in the wall I've ever come across. The atmosphere in these sometimes raunchy little cafés and restaurants, and the often outrageous local cuisine, makes eating out an experience to remember. But even those who like fine dining and a good bottle of wine, will find opportunities to indulge. The Romora Bay Club on Harbour Island is one, the Green Turtle Club on Green Turtle Cay in the Abacos is another.

Adventures on land and sea abound in the Out Islands. Most of them, though, require a modicum of self-organization. Throughout the following pages you'll find references to beaches, dive sites, snorkeling, bicycling and walking opportunities. Very few of these activities, with the exception of scuba diving, can be formally structured. A good map and the ability to make friends with the locals - local knowledge can produce golden opportunities - is all you need. Hotel employees are also a good source for local secrets. Other than that, you'll need to head out on your own and see what you can find.

Beyond the Out Islands, far to the south, lie the Turks and Caicos Islands. These are not a part of the Bahamas per se, but they are a part of the Bahamian archipelago and an increasingly popular destination for Americans, Canadians and Europeans. So, it seems only right that we give them coverage in these pages.

Most people have heard of Nassau, some have heard of Freeport and Grand Bahama, but very few have heard of the Out Islands. If you really want to get away from life in the fast lane, enjoy a few quiet days in the sun on some of the most beautiful and unspoiled beaches in the world, the opportunities offered by the Out Islands are almost limitless. Start your quest by visiting the Bahamas website: www.bahamas.com.

• With rare exceptions, hotel standards in the Bahamas are not what you get on the US mainland, or in Europe. Due to the fact that almost everything has to be imported, and is therefore expensive, there is a definite trend to put off until tomorrow what should be done today. Hotels that might have been considered fairly upscale five years ago can quickly become slightly seedy as time and weather take their toll. Don't expect too much, especially in the Out Islands and Turks and Caicos. But don't let a little inconvenience spoil your vacation.

The Abacos

Often referred to as Abaco, this cluster of islands, islets, and rocky outcrops forms an archipelago that stretches for more than 100 miles, from Walker's Cay in the northeast Bahamas, all the way down to Hole in the Wall in the southwest. It is the second largest grouping of islands in the Bahamas. Abaco, aside from being the most affluent and most-visited of the Out Islands, is also the most developed. Marsh Harbour, its capital city, is the third largest city in the Bahamas.

Marsh Harbour

But, with more than 650 square miles of almost deserted land and a total population of around 11,000, Abaco is hardly a bustling metropolis. Still, there's plenty to see and do and the available amenities are, for the most part, modern.

The Abacos are a mixture of isolated, dusty settlements and neat towns and villages that might have been lifted straight out of New England. Pastel-colored clapboard houses and white picket fences contrast sharply with dusty, bumpy, deserted roads. The Abacos offer sun-drenched beaches, warm ocean breezes, tropical trees and flowers, and quiet country lanes. More than 50 species of wild and tropical birds inhabit the islands, along with wild boar, several species of lizards and, in the surrounding waters, bonefish. Most of the men earn their living from the ocean.

The Abacos offer all sorts of spectacular outdoor activities, including sailing, sport fishing, sea kayaking, snorkeling, wreck diving, boating, guided island hopping, beach picnics, all-day island safaris, bird-watching and nature tours, hiking, fishing, biking, shelling, and on and on.

Most of the settlements on the Abacos sprang up along the east side of the main island. On the other islands, including Great Guana, Man-O-War Cay, Green Turtle Cay, Elbow Cay, and Little Abaco, a number of quaint little towns have grown up, named New Plymouth, Hope Town, Cooper's Town and Treasure Cay.

The principle city, Marsh Harbour, is a dusty little town somewhat reminiscent of a frontier town in the American west. Stand here for a moment or two and you might expect to see a tumbleweed roll across the road beneath the town's single, lonely stop-light.

Founded by American loyalists in 1784, Marsh Harbour is located close to the center of the Abaco island chain and is the gateway to the nearby island settlements of Great Guana Cay, Man-O-War Cay and Hope Town. Almost everything begins and ends in Marsh Harbour.

History

The first foreigners to visit the Abacos were Spanish explorers. They called the islands Habacoa, from the Spanish phrase, "haba de cacau," a rough description of the islands' limestone substructure.

Juan Ponce de Leon is supposed to have stopped by the islands in 1513, during his search for the fabled Fountain of Youth, but he found nothing of value except the local inhabitants, a small number of Lucayan Indians. These he quickly enslaved and, by 1550, the poor Lucayans had died out completely.

Ponce de Leon

Then the pirates arrived. They, too, found little of value. They realized, however, that the remote location and the hundreds of tiny cays, bays and inlets made fine hideouts, and the rocky coastline was a great asset in increasing their second source of income, wrecking.

• It's said that more than 500 galleons, some still laden with treasure, lie at the bottom of the ocean around the Abacos; many of them are the victims of wreckers.

Following the pirates, and after the end of the American War of Independence, a new breed of adventurer arrived on the Abacos. Loyalists from Virginia, the Carolinas and New England put down roots at Charleton, near Treasure Cay in the center of the Abacos. But their crops failed and, finally, the town was destroyed in a hurricane. By the late 1700s, Charleton had been abandoned and, in 1784, a new settlement, Elizabeth Harbour, some 18 miles to the south, had been established with help from friends on nearby Eleuthera. There, the colonists took to fishing and, once again, to farming. The little settlement of Elizabeth Harbour eventually became Marsh Harbour.

New settlers came and stayed on the Abacos, bringing with them an assortment of skills. The islands became an important center for small shipbuilding. Soon, due to the high quality of the islanders' craftsmanship, sloops, fishing boats, and dinghies built on the Abacos became prized throughout the Bahamas.

In the early 1970s came the movement toward Bahamian independence. The white population of the Abacos remained fiercely loyal to Britain; they even tried to secede from the Bahamas. In the end, however, independence came to the islands.

Today, although the little settlements on Man-O-War Cay - Hope Town and Green Turtle Cay - are still predominantly white, the residents of the Abacos have somewhat reluctantly come to terms with their new situation. The Abacos are prosperous - a popular tourist destination - and they are playing an increasingly important part in the Bahamian tourist industry.

Getting There

By Air

The Abacos are well served, both locally and from the mainland. American, Continental, and USAir offer service from most US gateway cities.

Visitors from Europe can travel from London and other major continental cities on the same three airlines, or on other code-sharing partner airlines, making connections in the US through Miami, Atlanta, Orlando, and elsewhere. Also, your travel agent can hook you up with package operators - British Airways Holidays, Thomas Cook, or American Express Holiday, to mention just a few. See Package Vacations.

Flying in to the Abacos, you arrive at one of two international airports, both tiny. Treasure Cay Airport is in the middle of that island and serves Green Turtle Cay, Manjack Cay, Cooper's Town, and the rest of Little Abaco, while Marsh Harbour Airport, farther south, serves Hope Town, Man-O-War Cay, and Great Guana Cay.

 

By Mail Boat

MV Legacy leaves Potter's Cay, Nassau, for Marsh Harbour, Treasure Cay, Green Turtle Cay and Hope Town on Tuesday at 8 pm, returning on Thursday at 7 pm. Sailing time is 12 hours. The fare, one-way, is $45.

Bahamas Ferries now operates a direct service from Nassau aboard the Sea Wind. The trip to Sandy Point takes an hour and 50 minutes. A round-trip costs $99 per adult or $55 for children (free under two). tel. 242-323-2166 for information and bookings.

i Mail boat schedules depend on the weather, and therefore can be a little erratic. They do stick to the schedule most of the time but it's best to call ahead and make sure. tel. 242-393-1064.

By Private Boat

During recent years, the Abacos have become a popular sailing destination. For more than 130 miles, stretching north and south, the two major islands, along with dozens of tiny islets and cays, present a wealth of opportunities. While you can visit a limitless number of secluded, often deserted, inlets, bays and anchorages, you're always secure in the knowledge that civilization is never very far away. Official ports of entry are Walker's Cay, Green Turtle Cay, Marsh Harbour, Sandy Point, and Spanish Cay.

There's a marina at the south end of Spanish Cay. Facilities include 75 slips with a maximum depth of nine feet, showers, fuel, a laundromat, shops and a restaurant. tel. 888-722-6474, fax 561-655-0172, VHF 16.

Green Turtle Cay has two facilities, the Green Turtle Club and the Green Turtle Shipyard. They have a combined total of 44 slips and a maximum depth of eight feet. Other facilities include showers, fuel, shops, restaurant, laundromat and satellite TV. tel. 242-365-4271, fax 242-365-4272, VHF 16.

The Bluff House Beach Hotel on Green Turtle Cay at White Sound offers 20 slips with a maximum depth of 10 feet. There's also a restaurant, laundromat, showers, fuel service, and a shop. tel. 242-365-4247, fax 242-365-4248, VHF 16.

At Treasure Cay, the Treasure Cay Hotel Resort & Marina is a full-service operation with 150 slips with a maximum depth of 12 feet. It also has on-shore accommodations, a repair shop, fuel service, a laundromat, showers, a restaurant, and several shops. There's a 50-ton travel lift nearby. tel. 800-327-1584, fax 242-365-8847, VHF 16.

The marina at the Guana Beach Resort on Abaco offers 22 slips with a maximum depth of 10 feet, along with on-shore accommodations, a popular bar and restaurant, an excellent beach with pink sand and several shops close by. If, however, you're looking for fuel or showers, you'll need to go elsewhere. tel. 242-365-5133, fax 242-365-5134, VHF 16.

The Abaco Beach Resort and Boat Harbour Marina is very popular. Facilities include 180 full-service slips with a maximum depth of 10 feet, repair service, fuel, a modern bathhouse with hot showers and dressing rooms, shops, a great restaurant, and a sailor's bar. tel. 800-468-4799, fax 242-367-2819, VHF 16.

There are more marinas scattered across the Abacos: Admiral's Yacht Haven, Harbour View Marina, Hope Town Harbour Marina on Elbow Cay, Marsh Harbour Marina, Mango's Marina, and the Conch Inn Marina, which has a great outdoor/indoor bar and restaurant, as well as more than 30 full-service slips, postal service, and mini-market; there's even a dive shop on the property. Call the Conch Inn Hotel and Marina at tel. 800-688-4752 or 242-367-4000.

Conch Inn Marina

Package Vacations

Unless you're a completely independent traveler, a package vacation is the best way to visit the Abacos, especially if you've not been before. Several companies offer air/hotel-inclusive packages with a variety of hotels to choose from; contact a reliable travel agent for a presentation of all the options. I recommend a package by American Airlines FlyAAWay Vacations (tel. 800-321-2121, www.aavacations.com) because they supply their own air portion of the vacation. This is an advantage if something goes wrong, especially when flights are delayed or cancelled. An airline will always see that their own customers are looked after before those of package operators.

American Airlines does not offer packages into Treasure Cay International Airport because they do not serve that airport. Destination Bahamas is a wholesaler that packages a more diverse number of properties with air on Abaco. Their number for reservations is tel. 1-800-224-2627. More information on this wholesaler or alternatives can be found at www.bahamas.com.

Both of the airports and the docks are well served by independently owned taxis, and you'll find them waiting to meet all of the inter-island ferries. Fares are reasonable, starting at around $12 for two people to ride from Treasure Cay or Marsh Harbour to any of the local hotels or ferry docks.

If you're traveling to Green Turtle Cay or Hope Town, take a taxi from the airport to the dock. The inter-island ferries are scheduled to coincide with incoming air services.

Getting Around

On Great Abaco a taxi is the most convenient mode of transportation. If you're headed on to the islands, it's the ferry.

By Ferry

To get to Green Turtle Cay, catch the ferry near Treasure Cay Airport. Taxi fare from the airport to the dock is $5. The ferry ride over to Green Turtle Cay will take about 50 minutes and cost $8; a same-day, round-trip ticket costs $15.

The taxi fare from Marsh Harbour Airport into town, or to Albury's Ferry Station, is about $12. Boats depart for Man-O-War Cay and Elbow Cay from Crossing Beach twice each day at 10:30 am and 4:30 pm. The one-way fare is $12; a same-day round-trip ticket costs $18. The ferry to Great Guana Cay leaves twice a day from the dock at the Conch Inn Marina at 9:30 am and 4:30 pm. The fare is $12 one-way and $18 for a same-day round-trip ticket. Children ride for half-fare.

If you miss the ferry, either at Marsh Harbour or Treasure Cay, don't worry, you're not stranded. You can arrange a special charter by calling Albury's Ferry Service at tel. 809-367-2306. A one-way ride will cost around $40. At Treasure Cay you can call the Green Turtle Ferry at tel. 809-365-4166 or 4151.

By Bicycle, Moped or Car

Bicycles are available to rent at many of the hotels and resorts throughout the Abacos and at Brendal's Dive Shop on Green Turtle Cay. Rental cars, bicycles and mopeds are also available in Marsh Harbour. At the time of this writing, the going rate for a rental car was negotiable, starting at about $60 per day. It's cheaper by the week. For a bicycle, you'll pay at least $10 per day or $50 per week. A moped will cost $40 for 24 hours, or $200 by the week - maybe less if you're prepared to haggle. tel. 242-365-4411, www.brendal.com.

Donna's Cart Rentals, by Joseph Satto. Just up the road from the ferry dock, Donna's offer golf cart rentals at $45 per day or $270 for a full week. Carts are equipped with headlights for getting around in the evening. Definitely worth the investment if you are staying out of town and want the option of exploring the island or dining out. tel. 242-365-5195, seansun@batelnet.bs.

Marsh Harbour

With a permanent population of just over 3,000 and a single traffic light (the only one on the Out Islands), the Bahamas' third largest city could be regarded as a major commercial center for the islands. It is, in addition, a major boating center, with craft of all shapes and sizes coming through for fuel, rest, food and water.

The little town has a shopping center of sorts, several small hotels, a couple of gift shops, and a number of restaurants.

Vacationers using Marsh Harbour as a center of operations will find the tiny community refreshingly quiet and well-equipped for most of your needs. From Marsh Harbour you can drive Great Abaco, or cruise the cays in a rental boat.

Walking

There are a number of good hikes. A leisurely half-hour stroll will take you to most of the sights and sounds of Marsh Harbour, while longer walks of up to three miles can provide a pleasant afternoon in the sunshine and some excellent views of the small off-shore cays and tiny outlying settlements.

A good place to begin is the Conch Inn (tel. 242-367-4000; see above). This is where the yachting fraternity congregates in ever-increasing numbers. The water here is crystal clear, and you can watch the fish, crabs, and the boats as they come and go. You can even rent a boat yourself and take a leisurely cruise. Visit the Conch Inn for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The dockside bar and restaurant with its open-air dining is famous across the islands as a gathering spot and watering hole. There are several other restaurants close to the waterfront, including Wally's and Mangoes. The waterfront is also home to Dive Abaco, one of the largest scuba and snorkeling centers in the Abacos. Along the way, bicycles can be rented at Abaco Towns by the Sea, a time-share apartment complex in downtown Marsh Harbour off Bay Street on the South Shore.

South from Town

A short walk from the old harbour to the south you will find Marsh Town and the Abaco Beach Resort & Boat Harbour (tel. 800-468-4799; www.abacoresort.com), with its full-service marina and 160 slips. The hotel, set back a little from the water, is also the location of one of the most popular watering holes: the Angler's Restaurant. The Great Abaco Beach Resort is also home to The Dive Shop. On the waterfront in Marsh Harbour, Seahorse Boat Rentals, tel. 242-367-2513, at Boat Harbour Marina on Bay Street, has boats, bicycles, windsurfers and snorkel equipment for rent. Follow Bay Street a little way to the east from Marsh Town and you'll pass through the tiny settlements of Pond Bay, Pelican Shores, Fanny Bay, and Upper Cut. The walk is a pleasant and leisurely way of spending an hour or two, and there are shady rest stops conveniently placed along the way.

North from Town

Go north from the waterfront in Marsh Harbour for an agreeable three-mile walk along Harbour Road to the quaint little fishing villages of Dundas Town and Murphy Town, two little communities with little churches and tiny clapboard houses. Be sure to drop in at Mother Merle's Fishnet in Dundas Town for conch salad, fresh fish, or a lobster plate that's excellent (take-out service only).

Driving

If you decide to drive, head out east or west where the country roads are something of an experience in themselves. Drive south to Sandy Point or Hole in the Wall, and you're in for a drive of about 100 miles, round-trip, with stops along the way at Cherokee Sound and Casuarina Point, where you'll find one of the island's most fascinating and not-to-be-missed characters, Nettie Symonette. Go north and a scenic drive of similar length will take you through Treasure Cay and on to the tiny villages of Cooper's Town, Cedar Harbour, Mount Hope, Fox Town and Crown Haven.

Man-O-War Cay

Man-O-War Cay is a small island community some three miles by boat from Marsh Harbour. It's the boat-building capital of the Abacos, and home to the Albury family, whose roots on the Abacos go back for many generations. They have something to do with almost everything that happens on the island - they operate the Albury ferry, the grocery store, the famous Albury's Sail Shop, the Harbour Store, Aunt Mady's Boutique, the Man-O-War Marina, Joe's Studio and many more of the island's prosperous businesses. Man-O-War Cay is a delightful place. There are no cars; the main mode of transport is either the golf cart or walking. There is just one hotel, Schooner's Landing Resort, and a few rental cottages and apartments.

Sailing off Man-O-War Cay

Exploring

Along the Queen's Highway, a big name for such a narrow thoroughfare, is an assortment of quaint gift shops, stores, churches and the island's tiny post office. A few yards down one of the miniscule side roads is Man-O-War's magnificent beach, often deserted, but always inviting. If you enjoy walking, there's probably no nicer hike than the couple of hours it will take you to walk from one end of the island to the other. To visit Man-O-War, take the ferry from the Marsh Harbour dock. A same-day round-trip will cost you $12, and it's well worth the money.

Elbow Cay & Hope Town

Hope Town is a quaint little place reminiscent of old New England. The town is a labyrinth of tiny streets, of gaily painted blue, yellow, pink and white clapboard cottages, small-town stores, and old-fashioned churches. And the town is ablaze with flowers growing in tiny gardens and along the sidewalks: pink oleander, purple bougainvillea, and yellow and red hibiscus. Boats bob at anchor in the harbour, above which the famous candy-striped lighthouse dominates the land and seascape for miles around.

Hope Town houses

Hope Town's harbor is almost completely enclosed. Only when you've navigated its narrow entrance does the town heave into view. As with Man-O-War, you won't find any cars in the city.

Located on the narrow northern end of Elbow Cay, Hope Town faces the harbor to the west. To the east is the ocean and, only yards from the main highway at the end of a narrow street, a magnificent stretch of white sandy beach. Almost always, there's the irresistible smell of fresh-baked bread, cakes and pies that permeates the air.

Exploring

Hope Town Harbour

The town's two museums - the Wyannie Malone Museum, off Bark Street at Hope Town Beach (open 10 am to 12:30, Monday-Saturday; entrance fee $1) and the Hope Town Lighthouse, across the harbour, close to Club Soleil - offer a peek into the town's and Elbow Cay's past.

You can stop for a cold drink at the Hope Town Harbour Lodge Hotel on Bay Street and enjoy lunch at Captain Jack's. From there, you might like to stroll up the hill to the Bryle Patterson Memorial Garden; a more peaceful or picturesque view would be hard to find. Hope Town is one of those story-book settings you may read about, but rarely find.

Jib

While exploring Hope Town, you're sure to come across the Jib, one of the oldest residences on the island. If you're lucky enough to be there between October and March, be sure to visit Dr. Hermann Schadt, a German artist. He and his wife, Ann, have been living between Frankfurt and Hope Town for the past 30 years. Locally, some just refer to him as "the artist" and after seeing his work you'll understand why. He works in watercolors. They burst with vibrant colors, yet are subtle enough to stare at endlessly. And they certainly manage to capture the radiance of Hope Town. The vast majority of his paintings are inspired by his local surroundings. It's likely that if you walked around town before visiting you'll recognize some of the buildings and beaches in his paintings. Although some of his work is for sale at local boutiques, you'll find a much larger selection at the Jib. You'll also find handbags and decorations designed by Ann Schadt. She uses only locally produced textiles and the designs are simple and fresh. (Joseph Satto)

Green Turtle Cay & New Plymouth

Green Turtle Cay is perhaps the Abacos' most popular vacation destination. New Plymouth, the island's only town, is another quaint little colonial community. It was founded by English loyalists in 1783 after the close of the American War of Independence, making it one of the oldest settlements in the Abacos. Once the second largest city in the Bahamas after Nassau, the old town is a photo album of neat clapboard cottages, picket fences, and a profusion of flowers. Unlike Hope Town and Man-O-War Cay, however, New Plymouth is open to vehicular traffic.

Main road on Green Turtle Cay

Exploring

With the Albert Lowe Museum as the focal point of your tour, New Plymouth's narrow streets, galleries, quaint shops and restaurants are wonderful to explore. The museum, on Parliament Street among the bougainvillea, is in an old colonial building. It contains a fine collection of maritime memorabilia and will provide you with a unique peek into the life and times of the loyalist settlers. They are located at Parliament and King Streets. Open from 9 to 11:45 am and 1 to 4:30 pm, Monday through Saturday. Entrance fee is $1. 

Lowe Museum

Other places of interest include the Loyalist Memorial Sculpture Garden, the New Plymouth Cemetery with gravestones dating back to the 18th century, and the old New Plymouth Jail, unused now for more than two centuries.

New Plymouth street

But there's more to Green Turtle Cay than New Plymouth. The island boasts a number of fine beaches, some of the best diving locations in the Bahamas, and a network of roads that will take you on long hikes to romantic bays and inlets, quiet little harbors where boats sit at anchor, and a number of out-of-the-way restaurants and cafés where you can enjoy fish and lobster straight from the ocean.

Bluff house on Green Turtle Cay

Green Turtle Cay has three hotels, one in New Plymouth, the others on the harbor at White Sound. The island can be reached only by private boat or by the ferry. The ferry service is good. You can leave for New Plymouth early in the morning from either Treasure Cay or the Green Turtle Club, returning to either dock in the mid-afternoon. There are also a couple of local tour operators who run trips to the island on a weekly basis.

Treasure Cay

Treasure Cay - the name is misleading, for it's not a cay at all - is on Great Abaco Island some 25 miles north of Marsh Harbour, and was the scene of the first major tourist development in the Abacos. During the 1950s, work began on the resort community. It has continued ever since. Today, the small town offers a variety of accommodations and facilities. There are luxury villas, condos, and time-share units. There's also a hotel, a 150-slip marina, several shops, a post office, grocery store, health clinic, dive shop and more. Best of all, Treasure Cay boasts one of the best beaches in the Bahamas. The four-mile crescent of sugar-white sand and waving palms, offset against a background of shallow, pale green sea, is the sort of stuff you see on the quintessential vacation poster. A major attraction is the golf course at Treasure Cay Hotel Resort & Marina, the only one in the Out Islands. There is also a dive shop at the resort, Treasure Divers.

Treasure Cay Hotel

• Treasure Cay is close to the site where the first settlers of the Abacos built their homes in Charleton, near the northern end of Treasure Cay. It lasted only a year or two before its population moved on to what would eventually become modern-day Marsh Harbour.

Great Guana Cay

Great Guana is one of the largest of the outer Abaco cays. It's also the location of one of the smallest settlements on the Abacos, Guana Harbour. The community is set at about the midway point on the seven-mile-long island, and you won't find it until you've navigated the tiny harbour entrance. Guana Harbour has a permanent population of only 80. Most of the men make their living either by farming or fishing. Those that don't are employed at the Abaco Beach Resort and Marina.

Like most of the cays in the Abacos, Great Guana is accessible only by private boat or ferry. The ferry runs a scheduled service from Marsh Harbour. The tiny village with its clapboard cottages, café, gift shop, liquor store, and grocery store, is a quiet retreat with narrow streets and waving palms. So, for the most part, Great Guana remains an unspoiled tropical paradise with more than seven miles of pristine white beaches, grassy dunes, and emerald waters, all set against a deep blue sky.

The Abaco Resort & Marina and Seaside Villas, above, the only hotel on the island, sits amid the palms, seagrapes and casuarina trees on a tiny peninsula. The resort is a sportsman's dream. Here you can windsurf, snorkel, water-ski, sail, and go deep-sea fishing.

Walker's Cay

Far away at the northern tip of the archipelago, two tiny islands, Walker's Cay and Grand Cay, represent the end of the world, at least as far as the Abacos are concerned. Walker's Cay, reached only by private plane or boat, is the last stop in the Bahamas - a mecca for sport fishermen from around the world. It's a lonely place, with only one hotel, a marina, and a population of marine life that will delight angler and diver alike. Walker's Cay, protected and unspoiled, was once a refuge for pirates and ne'er-do-wells. Today it's a haven for anglers, divers, and sailors. It's also a sanctuary for those who want to spend a few days in total seclusion - where the air is sweet, the beaches deserted, the sea clear, and the sunsets spectacular.

Guided Tours & Sightseeing

Bird Watching & Nature Tours

These tours, operated by Bahamas Naturalists Expeditions, Ltd., give you the opportunity to explore the nature trails in the Caribbean pine forests of the Abaco National Park with an experienced naturalist guide, who will explain everything of interest. You'll go in search of the endangered Bahama parrot, see a variety of orchids and bromeliads, and enjoy a catered picnic lunch on a deserted beach in southern Abaco. You'll also be able to snorkel in a freshwater, inland blue hole and see colossal stalagmites and stalactites that were formed more than 10,000 years ago.

Tours depart Marsh Harbour at 10 am and return at 4 pm. They cost $75 per person, including lunch and beverages. Snorkeling equipment is not included (you must bring your own). tel. 809-359-6783 for reservations, or inquire at Sapodilly's Restaurant & Bar on Bay Street in Marsh Harbour, or at Sea Horse Boat Rentals, either in Hope Town or Marsh Harbour at Boat Harbour Marina.

The Different of Abaco

This is at Casuarina Point, Abaco. Also the home of the Great Abaco Bonefishing Club, the Different of Abaco is the dream of Nettie Symonette. The natural resort, a small, rustic hotel in the wilds of southern Abaco off Cherokee Sound, is an on-going development of naturally landscaped gardens, rock gardens, freshwater ponds, and saltwater inlets, where bougainvillea, hibiscus, croton, oleander, star of Bethlehem and native orchids provide a riot of color and greenery. The rock gardens are a natural home for a variety of land and marine life that includes crabs, curly tailed lizards and snakes, while Nettie's personal collection of wildlife includes the Exuma iguana, the Abaco wild boar, dozens of friendly ducks, local chickens, and a lovable old donkey - all living happily together in a habitat that closely emulates their own natural environments.

To visit The Different of Abaco you must take either a taxi or rent a moped or bicycle. Once there, you can enjoy a home-cooked meal, wander the grounds, spend hours watching the more than 50 species of wild birds that inhabit the area and, before you leave, enjoy a cup of Nettie's famous Bush Tea. Hike a mile or two south on Great Abaco Highway and you can see hundreds of Abaco parrots. A little farther on, about five miles from The Different, is the village of Cherokee, a picturesque colonial town at the edge of Cherokee Sound. If you're interested in staying for a few days, call Nettie at % 242-366-2150 or 327-7921. If you want to try some bonefishing, there's no better place than here (see Fishing Packages).

Adventures on Water

Sport Fishing

The waters off the Abacos offer some great sport fishing. The flats around Cherokee Sound and Casuarina Point teem with bonefish. Boats are available for rent from a number of operators and the hotels on the islands offer a wide variety of sport and bonefishing packages. There are also several deep-sea charter fishing outfits that will take you right to the best waters to catch marlin, sailfish, wahoo, kingfish and barracuda.

Boat Rentals

• Rich's Rentals, Marsh Harbour. 17- and 21-foot Paramounts, daily, three-day, weekly and monthly rates. From $95 to $140 per day. tel. 242-367-2742.
• Conch Inn Resort & Marina, operated by The Moorings. Charter sailboats, bareboat and crewed. Expensive - call for rates. tel. 242-367-4000.
• Island Marine. Boston Whalers and Aquasports, Rates start at $40 per day for a 15-foot Boston Whaler. tel. 242-366-0181.
• Sea Horse Boat Rentals, Great Abaco Beach Resort. 18- to 21-foot Boston Whalers, $85-$140 per day, depending on size. tel. 242-367-2513.
• Rainbow Rentals, 17-foot Paramounts and 21-foot Chris Craft. tel. 242-367-2452.
• Donny's Boat Rentals, Green Turtle Cay. 14- to 17-foot Boston Whalers and 19- to 23-foot Makos. Daily, three-day and weekly rates. tel. 242-365-4119.
• Dames Rentals, Green Turtle Cay. 14- to 23-foot boats available at daily and weekly rates. tel. 242-365-4247.
• Hope Town Dive Shop & Boat Rentals, Hope Town. Boats from 13 to 23 feet available, with daily, three-day, and weekly rates. tel. 242-366-0029.

Fishing Tournaments

One of the first two legs of the Bahamas Billfish Championship Tournament, which takes place during the spring and early summer each year at five different locations, is held in April at Walker's Cay. The third and fourth legs are at Treasure Cay and Boat Harbour. For details and registration, tel. 305-923-8022 or 242-367-2158.

• The Penny Turtle Billfish Tournament is held at the Great Abaco Beach Resort in May. tel. 800-468-4799 or 242-367-2158.
• The Billfish Foundation's Tag Tournament is held in May at the Walker's Cay Hotel and Marina. tel. 800-WALKERS.
• The Annual Treasure Cay International Billfish Tournament is held in June. tel. 800-327-1584.
• The Green Turtle Cay Yacht Club hosts its annual fishing tournament in May. tel. 242-365-4271.
  The Boat Harbour Billfish Championship is held in June at the Marsh Harbour Resort. tel. 305-920-7877 or 242-367-2158.

Fishing/Accommodation Packages

Sport fishing packages are offered by several hotels on the Abacos, including those listed here. The rates quoted below are, unless otherwise stated, per person, double occupancy. For a full list of package operators, call either the Bahamas Tourism Office at tel. 800-32-SPORT, or the Bahama Out Islands Promotion Board at tel. 800-688-4725.

The Tangelo Hotel

Wood Cay, Abaco. tel. 242-365-2222 for reservations. http://oii.net/tangelo. This hotel specializes in bonefishing. Their basic package is a four-day/three-night stay that includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner, round-trip ground transfers, and two full days of fishing. The basic four-day package costs $778 for two persons based on double occupancy - a significant saving over the single rate of $686 per person. The package rate does not include airfare, taxes, or gratuities. An additional day of fishing will cost $200. Fly to Treasure Cay and take a taxi to the hotel or call for a pick-up.

Sea Spray Resort & Villas

Elbow Cay, Abaco, tel. 242-366-0065, www.seasprayresort.com. Fly into Marsh Harbour, then take the ferry to Elbow Cay. This operator offers two options:

• The basic four-day, three-night package is based on a group of four people and includes stay in an oceanfront villa with maid service and dinner each day. It also includes use of a 22-foot boat for three days, with bait and a boxed lunch each day, and 2½ days fishing with a local guide. $1,450.
• The seven-night package includes use of the boat for six days, 3½ days fishing with a local guide, bait, and boxed lunches on fishing days. Four people: $2,450.

Both packages also include use of a Sunfish sailboat, freezer space, ice, local charts, gratuities, and the 8% hotel tax. Airfare, breakfast, and fuel for the boat are not included.

Sea Spray Resort & Villas

Schooner's Landing Resort

Man-O-War Cay, Abaco, tel. 242-365-6143, www.schoonerslanding.com. Fly into Marsh Harbour then take the ferry over to Man-O-War Cay. A resort representative will meet you at the ferry dock. Schooner's Landing offers two packages:

• The basic four-day, three-night package includes a beachfront, two-bedroom townhouse, fully equipped; maid service; use of a 20-foot boat for three days, including ice and bait; a local fishing guide for 2½ days; a box lunch on fishing days and evening meals. $275 per day.
• The extended eight-day, seven-night package includes all the above, with the boat for six days and the guide for 3½ days, boxed lunches for three days and evening meals for three nights. $1,850.

Both packages include freezer space, private dock, local charts, gratuities and the 8% hotel tax. Airfare, fuel for the boat, tackle, taxi and ferry transportation are not included in the rates.

• Note: Visa/Mastercard and American Express charges are subject to a 5% surcharge.

The Conch Inn

Marsh Harbour, Abaco, tel. 242-367-4000, www.theconchinn.com. Fly into Marsh Harbour Airport and take a taxi to the hotel. The Conch Inn offers a basic four-day, as well as an extended eight-day, package. Included in the rate is transportation to and from the Marsh Harbour Airport; accommodations; use of the private pool and beach; daily maid service; a half-day of bonefishing, including bait, tackle and ice; and one full day of deep-sea fishing, including bait, tackle and ice. Meals, beverages, taxes and gratuities are extra. Call for rates.

Guana Beach Resort

Guana Cay, Abaco, tel. 800-227-3366, wwwguanabeach.com. Fly into Marsh Harbour Airport, take a taxi to the ferry dock, and then take the ferry to Guana Cay. Guana Beach Resort's package includes five days (four nights) of deluxe accommodations; a welcome "Guana Grabber" cocktail; use of a Sunfish sailboat and beach boat; and three half-day fishing trips for $550. Airfare and meals are not included, but breakfast and dinner are available for an extra $32 per person, per day.

The Great Abaco Bonefishing Club

Located at The Different of Abaco, Casuarina Point, Abaco, tel. 242-366-2150 or 327-7921. The Different of Abaco is a small, naturally developed retreat/resort with 10 guest rooms located just off Cherokee Sound. If you are looking for something different, want to get back to basics and away from it all for some fine bonefishing, this is the place. The Different offers four days of bonefishing and seclusion for $1,000 per person. The rate includes accommodations, meals, and three days of fishing with an expert local guide. More than that, though, you'll be taken to virgin flats where, rather than the elusive, skittish quarry you might expect, the bonefish have never seen a fly and will fight each other to take your bait. The bonefish here, from the tales of those who stalk them, fight harder and longer than anywhere else. The Different operates 10 boats, all with expert local guides, for fishing the flats of the Cherokee Sound or the flats at the Marls, some 18 miles down water.

Fishing Guides

Rates shown are per boat. Where no rates are given, they will be comparable to those that are shown. For more information, go to http://oii.net.

Will Key is available all year. He can take up to four people fishing on his 21-foot offshore boat, Day's Catch. Will specializes in bonefishing, reef and deep-sea fishing, snorkeling, sightseeing and shelling. Rates: $150 for a half-day; $250 for a full day. tel. 242-266-0059.

Robert Lowe runs charters April through August. His 30-foot Stapleton, Sea Gull, has a capacity of six persons for deep-sea fishing. Rates: $220 for a half-day; $440 for a full day. tel. 242-366-0266.

Maitland Lowe, an expert bonefisherman as well as deep-sea fisherman, takes anglers out in his 19-foot boat and charges $200 for a day's bonefishing; $150 for a half-day deep-sea fishing; and $250 for a full day. tel. 242-366-0004.

Truman Major is a guide for all types of fishing, except bonefishing, year-round. Truman takes anglers out in his 30-foot Sea Hawk, Lucky Strike, and supplies all tackle, bait and ice. Rates: $220 for a half-day; $320 for a full day. tel. 242-366-0101.

Captain Creswell Archer is available for deep-sea fishing and sightseeing out of Marsh Harbour. tel. 242-367-4000 for reservations.

Orthnell Russell, the "Bonefish King," is in Treasure Cay. Contact the Treasure Cay Marina, tel. 242-367-2570, or in Copper's Town, tel. 242-365-0125.

The King Fish II, Treasure Cay. Sportfishing daily. tel. 242-367-2570.

Lincoln Jones, Green Turtle Cay, tel. 242-365-4223.

Joe Sawyer, Green Turtle Cay, tel. 242-365-4173.

Trevor Sawyer, Cherokee, tel. 242-366-2065.

Diving & Snorkeling

Manta ray

The Abacos have plenty of coral reefs and ancient shipwrecks to explore. Or just float around close to the surface and watch the thousands of brightly colored fish, crabs and other marine life.

From Walker's Cay to Sandy Point, the shoreline of the Abacos offers a huge and varied assortment of shallow flats, sand banks, patch reefs, and fringe and barrier reefs. Diving is mostly done in shallow waters, six to 15 feet deep, easily within the scope of inexperienced snorkelers. Visibility ranges, according to depth, up to a couple of hundred feet. The coral structures, which include everything from sea fans to brain coral, and from antlers to tubes, are often fissured, undercut and dotted with mysterious blue holes. Everywhere there is a never-ending parade of reef and pelagic (deep-sea) fish of every color imaginable. Add to that a dozen or so wreck sites and you have an underwater enthusiast's dream come true.

Best Dive Sites

It's generally acknowledged that the best diving in the Abacos is between its eastern shores and the long line of cays on the 150-mile eastern barrier reef. For snorkelers, almost every beach throughout the archipelago offers something special.

Marsh Harbour

• The Towers. Huge coral pinnacles extend upward some 60 feet from the ocean floor and are riddled with spectacular tunnels and caverns.
• The Cathedral, a huge cavern where shafts of sunlight filter through, splashing the seabed with color.
• Grouper Alley, where, in 40 feet of unclouded water, great coral heads are honeycombed with tunnels.
• Wayne's World, where the water approaches 70 feet in depth, and you can take a thrilling excursion along the outer wall of the barrier reef.

Pelican Cays National Land & Sea Park

Located just north of Cherokee Sound, this is a 2,100-acre undersea wildlife refuge where you'll swim among coral heads, dive into undersea caves, and visit with gaily colored fish and other reef dwellers. Pelican Cays incorporates the only inshore fringed reef in the Abacos and is home to some 170 different species of marine life, including green turtles and spotted eagle rays.

Green Turtle Cay

Green Turtle Cay is located some three miles off the northeast coast of Great Abaco, , a tiny island that measures no more than three and a half miles long by a half-mile wide. It has a coastline of small bays, inlets and sandy beaches, along with excellent diving.

• Coral Canyons is a series of great canyons with an overhang that goes back into the reef some 60 to 80 feet. Often filled with huge schools of silver fish, the site provides great opportunities for underwater photography.
• The Catacombs, another great site for underwater photography, is a shallow, sunlit cavern.
• Coral Condos, in 60 to 70 feet of clear water, are a series of huge coral heads that provide homes for dozens of brilliantly colored reef fish.
• Tarpon Reef, another magnificent series of coral formations, is home to a school of tarpon from which it gets its name, as well as a large green moray eel. The wrecks of the Viceroy and the San Jacinto (see Shipwrecks, below) lie in some 30 to 50 feet of water and, although scattered over a wide area, present some unique photographic opportunities.

Green Turtle Cay

Walker's Cay

Accessible only by private plane or boat or through the services offered by the Walker's Cay Hotel and Marina, this is the northernmost of the chain of islands that makes up the Abacos. Because of its splendid isolation and inaccessibility, the island enjoys a reputation for fine diving and there's no shortage of facilities, guides, or support. Walker's Cay Undersea Adventures (see Dive Operators) will provide expert guides, rental gear, and instruction. The diving off Walker's Cay features bank, fringe and patch reefs, as well as drop-offs. It's dense with coral formations in shallow waters, crowded with marine life and, because of its isolation, is a world unspoiled and now well protected.

Ragged-tooth shark off Walker's Cay

Spectacular dive sites can be found throughout the area. These include:

• Spiral Caverns, a dramatic series of caverns in less than 50 feet of water that meander through vast coral formations filled with clouds of silver minnows.
• Pirates' Cathedral is a magnificent reef cavern with a series of chambers and openings filled with fish and other marine life.
• Barracuda Alley, the home of Charlie, a scary-looking, six-foot barracuda, provides a dive through 45 feet of water into a canyon-like coral reef formation.
• Shark Canyon. A dive through almost 100 feet of crystalline water and coral formations into a canyon, where sleeping sharks can often be found on the sandy bottom.

Shipwrecks

Dozens of shipwrecks lie off the Abacos. Some of the wreck sites are spectacular; some are barely recognizable. Some are accessible only by private boat; others can be explored through the dive operators working out of Marsh Harbour, Hope Town, and Green Turtle Cay. Following is a list of some of the better known wrecks in the Abacos:

The USS Adirondack

The USS Adirondack, an Ossipee class, wooden, steam- and sail-driven sloop of 1,240 tons and 207 feet in length, was launched on February 22, 1862. Hers was a short life. She was a Federal gunboat, operating as a part of the South Atlantic Blockading Squadron, that went down on August 23, 1862 after running aground on the Little Bahama Bank during a voyage from Port Royal to Nassau. Every member of her crew was rescued, but attempts to salvage the ship failed. The wind and surf soon smashed her into pieces and she sank.

Today, there's not much left of her. What remains lies scattered in 10-30 feet of water over a wide area between No Name Cay and Man-O-War Cay. Two of her 11-inch guns, as well as several other smaller guns, can still be seen, but that's about all. The wreck can be reached via either Dive Abaco or Dave Malone at the Hope Town Dive Shop. Dave will tell you that it's hardly worth the effort. Even so, if you're a Civil War buff, the Adirondack offers at least some historic significance.

The USS San Jacinto

The USS San Jacinto was also a Civil War gunboat. Launched on April 16, 1850, she was an experimental ship - one of the first to be powered by steam and sail. Unfortunately, her engines were not as reliable as those used in later ships and were a problem throughout her service. At the time of her demise she was employed as a part of the blockade against the Confederate ports on the east coast of the US. She ran aground off Chub Rocks on New Year's Day, 1865. In her time, although plagued by her unreliable machinery, she was credited with the capture of such Confederate blockade runners as the Lizzie Davis, the Roebuck, the Fox and others.

Today, what little remains of the San Jacinto lies scattered over a wide area in some 40 feet of water. Her superstructure is all gone, smashed to pieces by 145 years of pounding surf. She can be explored with Brendal's Dive International Shop of Green Turtle Cay (tel. 800-780-9941).

The Viceroy

The Viceroy,a turn-of-the-century steamship, lies in about 50 feet of water close to Chub Rocks, not far from the wreck of the San Jacinto. The ship's engines and props are still intact and make for some great close-up photography.

• The Viceroy is also the home of "Pickles," a seven-foot green moray eel who likes to be fed tidbits.

The H.M.S. Mermaid

The H.M.S. Mermaid set sail from Charleston, South Carolina on December 1, 1759, bound for New Providence; she never made it. On the morning of December 4th, fighting gale force winds and heavy seas, she found herself driven relentlessly toward the breakers. In a futile attempt to save his ship, Captain James Hackman tried three times to anchor her, and each time the ropes snapped under the force of the storm. For hours, the captain and crew fought to save the ship. The heavy guns were thrown overboard in a last-ditch attempt to lighten the ship and float it over the reef; it was not enough. The Mermaid finally ran aground about a half-mile offshore. For almost a month, the ship lay on the rocks, the surf pounding at her hull. Finally, on January 6, 1760, she broke up and sank; her remains were to lie undiscovered for 227 years until 1987, when Carl Fismer of the Spanish Main Treasure Company found her resting in only 10 feet of water. Fismer, using a magnetometer, first found one of her anchors, then another. Then, one by one, he found her long-abandoned guns and, finally, what was left of her hull among the rocks and sand off Mermaid Beach.

The wreck is easily accessible to both divers and snorkelers, and can be reached via a guided tour by Gary Adkinson and Barry Albury at the Walker's Cay Hotel and Marina Dive Shop. tel. 800-327-8150.

The Bonita

The Bonita, an English World War II transport vessel, was sunk in a location known only to Brendal Stevens of Brendal's Dive Shop, is now a grouper feeding station in 60 feet of water and is included in Brendal's schedule of dive sites.

The Barge

This wreck consists of the scattered remains of an old landing craft in 40 feet of water off Fiddle Cay.

The Demira

A 411-foot steel-hulled freighter that sank during a hurricane in 1928, she lies in 30 feet of water and is accessible to both scuba divers and snorkelers.

Elbow Cay diving

Best Snorkeling Sites

Nine hotels in the Abacos participate in the Jean Michel Cousteau "Snorkeling Adventures" program. All are featured at the http://oii.net website.

• Abaco Inn, Elbow Cay, tel. 800-468-8799
• Bluff House Club, Green Turtle Cay, tel. 800-688-4752
• Great Abaco Beach Resort, Marsh Harbour, tel. 800-468-4799
• Green Turtle Club, Green Turtle Cay, tel. 800-688-4752
• Guana Beach Resort, tel. 800-227-3366
• Hope Town Harbour Lodge, Elbow Cay, tel. 800-316-7844
• Pelican Beach Villas, Marsh Harbour, tel. 800-642-7268
• Spanish Cay Inn, Cooperstown, tel. 800-688-4752
• Walker's Cay Hotel, tel. 800-WALKERS

The best sites are as follows:

Angelfish Reef
An area of the reef where angelfish school in large numbers. The water here is less than 20 feet deep; it's ideal for beginners.

Blue Strip Reef

Spawning grounds for a variety of reef fish. Lots of colorful underwater formations. Large schools of blue striped grunts.

Crawfish Shallows

A fun place to visit, great for lobsters and the occasional sleeping nurse shark.

Elkhorn Park

A vast area of reef with acres of elk and staghorn corals. Lots of colorful reef fish, and lots of octopus. Coral heads are close to the surface.

Fowl Cay Reef

A large expanse of coral reef just a few minutes swim from the beach. Many interesting formations, and a large friendly grouper named "Gillie."

Hope Town Reef

An area of reef with lots of soft and hard corals, multitudes of colorful reef fish. Great for beginners.

Jeanette's Reef
Lots of small invertebrates, schools of colorful fish, and the occasional marauding barracuda.

Meghan's Mesa

An area where you can see a variety of soft and hard corals, all sorts of little critters, and lots of plume worms.

Pirates Cathedral

A labyrinth of caverns and underwater arches, all safe to swim through. Great for experienced snorkelers.

Pelican Park

This is a great site to observe sea turtles and eagle rays, along with a wide variety of other marine life.

Smugglers Rest

Lots of fun to be had here. The remains of a plane wreck, now home to all sorts of marine life.

Spanish Cannon

Very little is left of the Spanish galleon that sank here on the reef. Look for the cannon scattered among the ballast stones.

Sandy Cay Reef

A great place to observe some of the larger inhabitants of the coral reef: southern stingrays, spotted eagle rays, etc.

Dive Operators

Dive Abaco

Marsh Harbour, Abaco, Bahamas. tel. 800-247-5338, fax 242-367-2787, www.diveabaco.com. Dive Abaco, a small operation catering to divers and snorkelers, has been in business for more than 15 years and operates out of a wooden building on the waterfront at the Conch Inn, East Bay Street.. They have a staff of four, including two instructors, and their boat can carry up to 12 divers. Dive Abaco's retail store sells snorkel gear, accessories, and carries 35 sets of rental gear. The company is affiliated with NAUI, PADI, and CMAS.

Brendal's Dive Center International

Green Turtle Cay, Abaco, Bahamas. tel. 800-780-9941, www.brendal.com. Brendal Stevens, in business now for more than 10 years, offers instruction and a variety of specialized and individual tours. There is an all-day dive, snorkel, and glass-bottom boat tour, plus a sailing trip to a secluded island with a seafood cookout. The shop offers two-tank morning dives, one-tank afternoon dives, and night dives (by special arrangement). The operation has two boats: a new custom dive boat with capacity of up to 24 passengers and a smaller boat with capacity of 12. There's a staff of three, including an instructor. The shop store sells a full range of gear and accessories, and it carries 30 sets of rental gear. Brendal's is affiliated with SSI, CMAS, and NAUI.

Dive Guana

The only dive operator on Guana Cay, Troy has been in business five years and has an extensive knowledge of the best spots on the reef. Both half-day and full-day dive/snorkel trips are available and free transportation is provided to/from your property. The full-day trips include a combination of diving/snorkeling and a guided tour of one of the local islands. The full-service dive center offers instruction as well as equipment, underwater camera and boat rentals. In addition, they offer bicycle, kayak and fishing pole rentals. They can also arrange private villa or hotel accommodations. Dive/snorkel packages are available if staying at the Dolphin Beach Resort or Oceanfrontier Hideaways. tel. 242-365-5178, www.diveguana.com. (by Joseph Satto)

Froggies Dive Shop

For over six years, Lambert and Teresa Albury have been satisfying divers/snorkelers with their wide-ranging reef knowledge and top-quality service. They offer both half- and full-day scuba and snorkeling options. Full-day tours include a combination of snorkeling/diving and island-hopping. They are happy to arrange specialty trips such as night dives and shark dives. They have three boats at their disposal so large groups can be easily accommodated. A full-service dive center has everything you might need for purchase or rental. Although they are PADI-affiliated they accept SSI and NAUI as well. tel. 242-366-0431, froggies @batelnet.bs. (by Joseph Satto)

Walker's Cay Undersea Adventures

PO Box 21766, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33335. tel. 800-327-8150, www.nealwatson.com. With more than 21 years in business, they offer a wide range of diving options: two-tank dives in the morning and afternoon, two night dives each week, and shark dives three times a week. The outfit has a staff of six, including four instructors, and two boats with capacities of 16-25 passengers. The company store sells gear and accessories and keeps 15 sets of rental gear on hand. Walker's Cay Undersea is affiliated with PADI, SSI, NAUI, and YMCA.

The Dive Shop

Great Abaco Beach Resort, Marsh Harbour, Abaco, Bahamas. tel. 800-468-4799, wwwabacoresort.com. This is operated by Doug Laurie, who offers diving and snorkeling excursions for novice and experienced divers.

The Hope Town Dive Shop

Hope Town, Abaco, Bahamas. tel. 242-366-0029. A fully equipped shop: B/Cs, regulators, masks, fins, belts, and boat rentals.

Dive/Accommodation Packages

Dive packages are offered by several hotels on the Abacos, including those listed below. The rates quoted are, unless otherwise stated, per person, double occupancy, and were current at the time of writing. Credit cards are accepted unless otherwise stated.

The Conch Inn

Marsh Harbour, Abaco, Bahamas. tel. 800-247-5338, fax 242-367-4004. This package includes professionally guided scuba diving trips from Dive Abaco's full-service dive shop, tank and weights, two dives per day, hotel accommodations, and use of the fresh-water pool. The package does not include airfare, meals, taxes, or gratuities.

• 5 days/4 nights (includes 3 days of diving): call for rates.
• 8 days/7 nights (includes 4 days of diving): call for rates.

A special airfare is available, either from Miami or Fort Lauderdale, for $150 per person, plus $15 tax. Airlines serving Marsh Harbour are US Air Express, American Eagle, Gulfstream, and Bahamasair.

Schooner's Landing Resort

Man-O-War Cay, Abaco, Bahamas. tel. 242-365-6072, fax 242-365-6285, e-mail info@schoonerslanding.com. Fly into Marsh Harbour, take a taxi to the ferry dock and ride the ferry to Man-O-War Cay, where you will be met by a Schooner's Landing Resort representative. They offer two packages based upon a four-person occupancy. The four-day package includes a fully equipped beachfront, two-bedroom townhouse with maid service; a 20-foot boat for two days to explore the surrounding islands or dive the national parks; a one-day professionally guided dive trip (two-tank dive); one full tank per person each day for two days; boxed lunches for three days; evening meals; use of a private dock; gratuities, and hotel taxes. The eight-day package includes all the above plus use of the 20-foot boat for five days and one full tank per person for five days. Packages do not include air fare, fuel for the boat, taxi and ferry transportation, snorkel gear, regulator, and B/C. Visa/Mastercard and American Express charges are subject to a 5% surcharge.

• 4 days/3 nights: $1,650
• 8 days/7 nights: $2,525

The Green Turtle Club

Green Turtle Cay, Abaco, Bahamas. tel. 800-780-9941, www.greenturtleclub.com. Fly into Treasure Cay Airport, take the ferry to Green Turtle Cay and disembark at the Green Turtle Club. The lobby is just a few yards in front of you. Airlines serving Treasure Cay are USAir Express, American Eagle, Gulfstream, Island Express, and Bahamasair. The club offers a wide variety of dive package options for all seasons. Included in all rates are luxury accommodations at the Green Turtle Yacht Club, use of the freshwater swimming pool, windsurfing, beach chairs, tennis, two daily dive trips to the reefs or wrecks, tanks, back pack, weight belts, and a welcome drink. Not included are air fares, meals, transfers, the ferry from and to Treasure Cay, and airport departure taxes. Diving is with Brendal's Dive Shop on Green Turtle Cay, close to the Green Turtle Yacht Club. Call the toll-free number for rates.

Walker's Cay Hotel and Marina

Walker's Cay, Abaco, Bahamas. tel. 800-327-8150. Walker's Cay Hotel and Marina operates its own plane service out of Fort Lauderdale. Dive packages include round-trip airfare from Fort Lauderdale; transfers to and from the hotel; deluxe air-conditioned accommodations; breakfast and dinner daily; three dives per day (two in the morning and one in the afternoon); tank, weights and belt; room taxes, maid, and MAP meal gratuities. Not included are bar charges, incidentals, US and Bahamian departure taxes. Non-divers may deduct $40 per night from the above. Private pilots may deduct $150 from the packages rate. Call the toll-free number for rates.

Dive packages are also offered by the following:

Marsh Harbour

• Lofty Fig Villas (tel. 242-367-2681)
• Abaco Towns by the Sea (tel. 242-367-2227)
• Green Turtle Cay
• Bluff House (tel. 242-365-4246)
• Coco Bay Cottages (tel. 800-752-0166)
• Hope Town
• Hope Town Hideaways (tel. 242-366-0030)

Where to Stay & Eat

Restaurant Price Scale
$ less than $20 per person
$$ $20-$50 per person
$$$ $50+ per person

Dining

Elbow Cay

Path in Hope Town

$$ The Abaco Inn Restaurant on White Sound is open to the public for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Free transportation is provided to and from Hope Town, so give them a call to get the ferry times - you'll need to make a reservation anyway. Conch fritters, conch salad, lobster, dolphin, grouper and rack of lamb are a few of the items you're likely to find on the evening menu. tel. 242-366-0133.

$$ Club Soleil is at Hope Town Marina across the water from the Hope Town itself, so you'll need a boat to get there. If you don't have one, the restaurant will provide transportation. Located under the famous candy striped lighthouse, Club Soleil specializes in continental cuisine and fresh fish, with a champagne brunch on Sundays. tel. 242-366-0224.

$-$$ Captain Jack's is a great little waterfront café next to Hope Town Harbour. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the veranda in an easy-going atmosphere. Specialties include seafood of all sorts, home-made bread, and even turtle burgers. tel. 242-366-0247.

$-$$ The Harbour's Edge, as its name indicates, is right on the waterfront in Hope Town where you can enjoy a fine view. The restaurant, with its inside bar, is a popular watering hole for nautical types and locals alike. The food is always good, and the specialties include crawfish salad, conch chowder, and gullywings (chicken wings). Happy Hour is 5 pm until 6 pm. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner only. tel. 242-366-0087.

$$ Hope Town Harbour Lodge in Hope Town is a good spot for a quiet breakfast on the veranda, lunch by the pool, or candlelight dining in an intimate atmosphere. There is also a Sunday champagne brunch with fresh seafood, roast beef, and chicken. tel. 242-366-0095.

On Da Beach Restaurant/Bar. They weren't lying when they named this restaurant. It sits, perched on a dune no more than 50 feet from the ocean. Their motto, "no shirts, no shoes, no problem," holds true, so feel free to go barefoot. All of the grilled seafood options are excellent and on certain nights they serve specially prepared Bahamian dishes. On Sundays, they offer the local favorite, chicken souse, served with grits and Johnny cakes, alleged to be the perfect cure for a hangover - something you'll probably need if you make it for their monthly full moon party where generous pours, bustling crowds, and festive music will keep you up socializing into the wee-hours of the morning. (by Joseph Satto)

$$ Rudy's Place is about a mile from Hope Town and is open for dinner only. They do provide free transportation from the town and from many of the hotels, so you'll need to make a reservation. The atmosphere is simple but the food is always good and you can expect to find lamb, steak, turtle, and fresh fish on the menu, all complemented by excellent home-made bread. tel. 242-366-0062.

Great Abaco & Marsh Harbour

$-$$ The Conch Inn Restaurant at the marina is a popular gathering place for all sorts of interesting people, many of them sailors. Some are locals; others are visitors. The semi-outdoor, harbour-view dining room and bar, with its rustic décor and yachting memorabilia, has a beachcomber, waterfront atmosphere. It's relaxed and easy going - canvas shorts, colored shirts, and sandals are the standard dress. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The menu offers a wide variety, mostly Bahamian, of ocean-fresh seafood, including conch salad, cracked conch, and lobster; or you can have steak or chops. tel. 242-367-4000.

$$ Angler's Restaurant, at the Boat Harbour Marina, specializes both in Bahamian and American cuisine. If you want to enjoy a quiet drink at the poolside you can drop in at the Sand Bar, or go indoors for a little mother's ruin (gin) at Penny's Pub. Both are close by. tel. 242-367-2158.

$$ Café La Florence. Located on Queen Elizabeth Drive, just across from Memorial Plaza, La Florence is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday. Specialties include a variety of Bahamian dishes, lots of fresh seafood, including lobster and grouper, and a wide selection of fresh-baked goodies.

$$ The Castle Café is a charming little restaurant set high on a hill overlooking Marsh Harbour and the ocean. Unfortunately, they are open only for lunch, which is served daily from 11 am until 5 pm on the terrace. The house itself is a large, old-world mansion. It's a gathering spot for the locals and for the sailing fraternity. Home-made specialties, including wonderful soups, seafood salads, and sandwiches, are all prepared by the owner.

$ The Golden Grouper is in Dove Plaza. Open Monday through Saturday from 7 am until 3 pm daily for breakfast and lunch. It serves Cuban, Chinese, and Bahamian dishes.

$ The Main Street Grill at Royal Harbour specializes in fried chicken, home-made burgers, and gourmet potatoes. Open daily from 11 am until 10 pm. This is a great place to take the kids for a quiet family meal.

$ Kool Scoops is the ice cream parlor in the Abacos. Located in downtown Marsh Harbour, next to the Canadian Imperial Bank, Kool Scoops offers a wide selection of flavors and an air-conditioned dining room. Open from 11 am until 10 pm, Monday through Saturday, and from 1 pm until 10 pm on Sunday.

$$ The Bayview Restaurant is on the water in Marsh Harbour, a mile west of the traffic light. Specialties include seafood and prime rib. Open daily for lunch and dinner from 11 am until 11 pm; champagne brunch is served on Sunday from 11:30 am until 3:30 pm. The restaurant has an all-tide dinghy dock.

$ The Sand Bar is a popular gathering spot at the Abaco Beach Resort. There's a pool with a swim-up bar. Snacks are available from 11 am until late, but you can also choose from a full bar menu. The specialty is frozen tropical drinks.

$$ The Jib Room is just across the water from the Conch Inn and is open for lunch daily and for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. You'll enjoy your meal on the waterfront at an umbrella-covered table in a Bahamian, rustic-garden atmosphere.

$$ Mangoes on the waterfront, just across the road from the Lofty Fig, is another of Marsh Harbour's institutions. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner every day except Sunday, specializing in burgers and fresh seafood at lunchtime and candlelight dinners in the evening. The bar on the waterside veranda is the ideal spot for an evening drink while watching the sun go down.

$ The Tiki Hut on Bay Street near the Conch Inn is the place to go for American sandwiches, burgers and Bahamian dishes.

$$ Wally's, across the road from and facing the harbour, is the most famous restaurant in Marsh Harbour. The colonial-style, two-story building is reminiscent of a pink-and-white Southern mansion. Dine inside or outside on the veranda, but first sit at the bar and enjoy one of Marine's or Barbara's special island drinks. The Bahamian cooks specialize in local cuisine and, so they say, "you can't get fish any fresher anywhere in the Bahamas. It comes straight from the boat and into the kitchen." Try the fried grouper or, better yet, the coconut curried wahoo. If you don't like seafood, they also offer a number of beef and poultry dishes.

$ Mother Merle's, on Dundas Road about two miles north of the stoplight, is open for dinner only. Bahamian specialties include conch salad, cracked conch, chicken, home-made pies, and fresh fish. No credit cards.

Great Guana Cay

$$ The Guana Beach Resort Restaurant serves breakfast to hotel guests only, but opens up to everyone for lunch and dinner. Lunch can be eaten on the pool deck or inside. The dinner menu includes an assortment of Bahamian dishes, as well as fish, chicken, and steak. tel. 242-365-5133.

$$ Nippers Beach Bar & Grill. This is the kind of place to sit and stay a while. And that's exactly what hundreds of islanders and tourists do every Sunday for the famous afternoon pig-roast. But on any day of the week, the multicolored picnic tables and the cast of local characters make this a fun place to hang out. When in season, be sure to try the grilled wahoo. It's seasoned to perfection and accompanied by the local Bahamian rice, a truly addictive dish. Thirsty? Give the famous Nipper's punch a try; it packs a wallop and goes down easy. If in the mood for graffiti, scribble a message on a dollar bill and post it along with the hundreds of other bills tacked to the walls. Menu includes a large selection of Bahamian seafood. Prices range from $9 to $16 for lunch and $18-$30 for dinner. tel. 242-365-5143, www.nippersbar.com. (by Joseph Satto)

$$ Blue Water Grill. The opening of Blue Water Grill in 2003 introduced casual gourmet dining to this island. Request a table on the outdoor deck and catch a spectacular sunset over the Sea of Abaco and then be treated to a masterfully crafted meal with Bahamian flavor and flair. Although the taste of the food is likely to have you feeling good physically, the fact that much of the produce is organically grown will leave your karmic side feeling satisfied as well. They serve both lunch and dinner, along with a charming selection of wines. Appetizer prices range from $9 to $16, entrées range from $24-$32. tel. 242-365-5230, www.bluewatergrillredskylounge.com. (by Joseph Satto)

Art Café & Bakery. Just opened in 2005, Shawna Sands' fresh-baked goods have already become a staple in many residents' diets. The treats include cookies, cakes and pies. But her real specialty is bread. Cinnamon-raisin, coconut and plain white top the list. If you have something special in mind, just ask and she's likely to whip one up the next day. Choose from a selection of international coffee and take a seat on the outdoor deck to enjoy views of the harbor. Large ceiling fans keep the place cool, even in the midday sun. In the evenings, locals congregate for ice cream and homemade desserts. They serve breakfast (one of the only places on the island), lunch and dinner. Wireless Internet access. Located in the bright periwinkle building adjacent to the ferry dock. (by Joseph Satto)

Green Turtle Cay

$$ The Bluff House Restaurant sits on a hill overlooking White Sound and is a romantic spot for a candlelight dinner with breathtaking views of the ocean and the lights of New Plymouth in the distance. Your dinner includes complimentary wine and the menu offers a range of dishes such as fresh lobster, prime rib and roast duck. The restaurant provides free transportation to and from New Plymouth, and from hotels and boats. tel. 242-365-4247.

$$ The Green Turtle Club is also on White Sound. Breakfast and lunch are served outdoors on the patio. Dinner is served at a single sitting at 7 pm in the opulent dining room. Reservations must be made before 5 pm. The menu offers a choice of three entrées each evening, which might include lobster, duck, chicken, veal, or prime rib. tel. 242-365-4271.

$ Laura's Kitchen is on King Street in New Plymouth. You can eat inside or take out your order. The restaurant serves conch, fish, chicken, conch burgers, and ice cream. tel. 242-365-4287.

$$ The New Plymouth Inn Restaurant is just across the way from the Sculpture Garden, right in the center of Hope Town. It is one of Hope Town's popular gathering places. You'll need to make a reservation, as the dining room is small and intimate. Dinner is served in a single sitting at 7:30 pm, and the menu will include a choice of three entrées. tel. 242-365-4161.

$ Plymouth Rock Café is at the end of Parliament Street on the main government dock. The café is open only from 9 am until 3 pm, serving sandwiches and burgers at the counter. tel. 242-365-4234.

$$ The Wrecking Tree, on New Plymouth Harbour, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. This is the place to enjoy a beer, or any one of a range of exotic tropical drinks. Specialties include Bahamian pastries, conch salad, and chicken. tel. 242-365-4263.

McIntosh Restaurant and Bakery. In business 10 years and for good reason. The fresh-baked pies, cakes, and pastries draw a regular crowd. Local favorites include the key lime pie, coconut cream pie and bread pudding. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are also an option from a menu that includes local Bahamian favorites, conch and grouper, as well as more standard American fare. If you need to cool down, they also have an ice cream shop where you can sample both traditional and more creative options. (by Joseph Satto)

$ Harvey's Restaurant. Open for just over a year, they have already developed a very loyal following. If you go for lunch try one of the sandwiches served on locally baked Bahamian bread. The blackened grouper is a flavorful option and the seafood sampler gives you a great overview of some of the island's most popular culinary delights. Bahamian and American fare. They serve lunch and dinner and offer a kids' menu. Prices range run $6-$10 for lunch and average around $14 for dinner entrées. (by Joseph Satto)

Man-O-War Cay

Albury's Bakery is in a private home just across the way from the Man-O-War Grocery on Queen's Highway. They sell some of the best bread, home-made pies, and conch fritters on the islands. Call ahead to place your order. tel. 242-367-3147.

$$ The Man-O-War Pavillion is an open-air reastaurant at the harbour. The menu is mostly Bahamian and includes a variety of seafood dishes - conch, grouper, dolphin, shrimp - along with chicken, burgers and an assortment of side orders. On a fine day, this can be a very relaxing dining experience. tel. 242-365-6185.

Accommodations

Hotel Meal Plans

• CP (Continental Plan) includes a continental breakfast.
• EP (European Plan) denotes no meals, although restaurant facilities are available either on the property or nearby.
• MAP (Modified American Plan) denotes breakfast and dinner.
• FAP (Full American Plan) includes all meals.
• All-Inc. (All-Inclusive Plan) includes all meals, beverages (alcoholic and soft), watersports, tennis and golf, if available.

Elbow Cay

Hope Town Harbour Lodge

Hope Town Harbour Lodge sits on top of a bluff and, though still "in town," is just as close to the harbour as it is to the beach. The view from the Lodge is one of the best on the island. Some of the rooms are in the main building, some in quaint little cottages by the water, and some in the Butterfly House, one of the oldest buildings in Hope Town. Some rooms are air-conditioned. The others are cooled by soft breezes blowing in from the ocean and, except on the hottest days, remain comfortable throughout the year. The rate is $100 per night for one person, $115-135 for two, and $125-$145 for three people. MAP is $33 extra per night. tel. 800-316-7844, or write Hope Town Harbour Lodge, Hope Town, Abaco, Bahamas. www.hopetownlodge.com.

The Club Soleil at the Hope Town Marina is just across the harbour from Hope Town itself, so you'll need a boat or the ferry to get back and forth, but that's half the fun. 

Club Soleil

From its romantic spot beneath Hope Town's famous candy-striped lighthouse, you have a fine view of the harbour and the town itself. Lunch is served on a deck that surrounds the pool. There's also a great place to eat, the Club Soleil Restaurant, close by, or you can take the ferry over to town for your evening meal. The rate per night for up to two persons is $115, and for three persons it's $125. MAP will cost $32 per night extra. tel. 242-366-0003, or write Club Soleil Resort, Hope Town, Abaco, Bahamas.

The Abaco Inn is two miles south of Hope Town on Queen's Highway. It lies on a narrow ridge with the ocean at one side and White Sound at the other. This small hotel offers 12 guest units, six on the ocean side and six with harbour views. Some units are air-conditioned. There is a pool built right into the coral rock, hammocks for two, and a fleet of bicycles for guests to use free of charge. Complimentary transportation is provided into Hope Town. The rate is $120 per night for one person, $135 for two, and $155 for three. MAP is $33 extra per night. tel. 800-468-8799 or write Abaco Inn, Hope Town, Abaco, Bahamas. www.abacoinn.com.

Hope Town Hideaways is one of the newest and most luxurious accommodations on the island. Each of the four large, air-conditioned villas has a modern kitchen, breakfast bar, dining room, living room, and wrap-around deck so you can follow the sun - or stay in the shade - all day long if you wish. The villas are set on 11 landscaped acres across the water from Hope Town. The views of the town, harbour, and lighthouse are spectacular and, although Hope Town is a short boat ride away, you are within easy reach of shops, restaurants, and beaches. Rates start at around $140 per night, per person, and go up to $220 per night, EP only. tel. 242-366-0224, or write Hope Town Hideaways, One Purple Porpoise Place, Hope Town, Abaco, Bahamas. www.hopetown.com.

Casa Luisa in Hope Town Hideaways

The Sea Spray Resort & Villas is at the south end of the island about three miles from town on White Sound. The resort offers a selection of one- and two-bedroom ocean-view cottages and villas, all with air-conditioning and daily maid service. Each unit has a deck and a barbecue pit. The beach is a bit rocky, but has lots of character. You'll have the use of a Sunfish sailboat or windsurfer, free of charge, and you can rent a bike just down the road at the Abaco Inn. The resort is a great place for hiking, too. Hope Town is just an hour away on foot, and Tahiti Beach less than 30 minutes. Fly into Marsh Harbour and take the ferry over to Elbow Cay; transfer from the dock to the resort is free. The daily rate per person is $150; EP only, but you can arrange to have your meals catered. tel. 242-366-0065, or write the Sea Spray Resort, White Sound, Elbow Cay, Abaco, Bahamas. www.seasprayresort.com.

Sea Spray Resort & Villas

Turtle Hill Villas. Located a short-ride away from the ferry dock, Turtle Hill offers both two- and three-bedroom villas, each with a large deck looking out to the ocean. Inside, the villas have a spacious and airy feel with large, fully equipped kitchens. Air conditioning and ceiling fans adorn each villa. If you need to cool off, you can choose from two freshwater pools or the ocean. If you choose the ocean, a short boardwalk takes you to a pristine expanse of soft sand. The sandy bottom invites you to spend plenty of time frolicking in the waves. If you want to explore the charming streets and shops of Hope Town, a walk to town will take 20 minutes on foot. Feeling more adventurous? It's very common to simply wave down a passing vehicle for the two-minute ride into town. On Da Beach Restaurant & Bar is on the premises and is perched just above the beach. It's a great place to laze away with a drink in one hand and a book in the other. A minimum three-night stay is required. Depending on the number of guests and the villa you choose, rates range from $340 to $550 per night and include a golf cart rental. tel. 800-339-2124, 242-366-0557, www.turtlehillvillas.com. (by Joseph Satto)

Great Guana Cay

Oceanfrontier Hideaways. Although you may be more accustomed to log cabins in the mountains or woods, these six three-bedroom log cabins nestled among the palm trees will shatter any preconceived notions you have. In fact, the cozy cabins actually enhance the laid-back feel on Guana Cay. Half-refrigerators, coffee makers, microwaves, toasters, hot plates, and air conditioners are standard. The barbecue on the private deck gives you another cooking option. Everything is located on the main floor of the cabin except for the third bedroom, which requires a steep climb up a secure ladder. A walkway winds its way through the small property to a deck overlooking a magnificent beach. Take 17 steps down a private stairway and you're in the stunning beach landscape. The sturdy cabins eliminate outside noise, a good thing considering that directly adjacent sits Nippers Beach Bar & Grill, one of the most popular bars in all of the Abacos. Noise probably won't be an issue, however, as you'll likely find yourself there most evenings sharing drinks and swapping stories with the locals. EP only. Rates range from $225 daily to $1500 weekly. tel. 519-389-4846, 888-541-1616, www.oceanfrontier.com. (by Joseph Satto)

Dolphin Beach Resort. Peeking out from the dense tropical landscape, the lodge and cottages are painted in a kaleidoscope of colors. The Colors of Junkanoo, an annual Bahamian festival, reflect the festive feel of the resort. If you're in the mood for a dip, you can head out to the swimming pool or saunter along the short walkway to a five-mile sweep of coral-colored sand with great swimming, beachcombing, snorkeling and kayaking. On a lazy, hazy afternoon, grab a book from the library, a soft drink from the cooler, and while away the hours on your own private deck.

Dolphin Beach Resort

While the lodge offers four spacious rooms and a somewhat luxurious level of living, the tiny one- , two- and three-bedroom cottages offer a more self-contained experience. Ceiling fans and the ocean breezes keep things cool in most of the cottages, but a few do offer air conditioners. There is no restaurant on the premises but a few good options are close by. The office doubles as a gift shop in case you need to stock up on gifts. Rates range from $200 per night in the Lodge to $440 per night for a three-bedroom cottage, with discounted weekly rates. EP only. tel. 800-222-2646, 242-365-5137, www.dolphinbeachresort.com. (by Joseph Satto)

The Guana Beach Resort is the place where you can get away from life in the fast lane. There are no telephones or television sets in the guest rooms, but all are air-conditioned and some even have kitchens. There's also a bar and a restaurant that specializes in exceptional seafood.

You can eat outside on the deck if you wish. Set back among the palms, the hotel is on a small peninsula with the marina on one side and the bay on the other. There are seven miles of deserted beaches, the crystal waters of the ocean, a fleet of Sunfish sailboats for guests to use free of charge, and an abundance of opportunities for snorkeling, fishing, shelling or exploring. The ferry makes pickups twice each day in Marsh Harbour, which is only a few minutes ride from the airport. The rate for up to two persons per night is $140 and $150 for three persons. MAP is $35 per night extra. tel. 242-365-5133 or write to Guana Beach Resort, PO Box 474, Marsh Harbour, Abaco, Bahamas. www.guanabeach.com.

Green Turtle Cay

Coco Bay Cottages, Green Turtle Cay. The five-minute ride on the "highway" is a bumpy affair but once you arrive you'll understand why 80% of their guests are repeat visitors. Six cottages sit a literal stone's throw away from both the ocean and the bay. Walk the popular bone-fishing flats on the bayside or grab your beach blanket and snorkeling gear and head to the deserted beach on the oceanside. The two- and three-bedroom cottages are clean and well tended. Although each cottage has air-conditioning and ceiling fans, you'll find the tradewinds that blow regularly are just as effective at keeping you cool. Don't be surprised if you get an invite for a cocktail or a bite to eat. The owners, Nicole and Larry Fleming, treat guests more like family. For those traveling with children or in large groups, the 'rec' cottage is stocked with games, books, beach equipment and a satellite television. All units are fully equipped for cooking. If you prefer to eat out, a quick scamper in a golf cart opens up various dining options on the southern end of the island. Daily rates range run $250-$300, with discounted weekly rates on all cottages. EP only. tel. 800-753-0166 or 242-365-5464, www.cocobaycottages.com. (by Joseph Satto)

Coco Bay Cottage

The New Plymouth Inn is in the heart of New Plymouth on Parliament Street among the shops and galleries and only a short walk away from the beach. Once the home of sea Captain Billy Roberts, the restored 150-year-old building has 10 comfortable guest rooms, each with private bath, some with canopied beds and some with twin beds. The hotel also has a bar and dining room, a saltwater pool, and a landscaped garden entrance with a wrought-iron table and chairs. The room rate is $85 per night for one person, $120 for two, and $180 for three persons MAP. tel. 242-365-4161 for reservations, or write New Plymouth Inn, Green Turtle Cay, Abaco, Bahamas.

New Plymouth Inn

The Green Turtle Club & Marina is at the end of White Sound, north of New Plymouth. It's a place known around the world in yachting circles. The walls of the tiny bar and lounge are papered with autographed dollar bills - thousands of them - and the ceiling is hung with yacht club pennants of all shapes and sizes. Dinner at the Green Turtle Club is an experience in itself. Guests are escorted into an elegant, formal dining room for the single-sitting meal, and are served a series of delicious courses in candlelit splendor. Outside, the club's tiny strip of private beach faces the sun and the harbour where dozens of boats, large and small, bob at anchor. The guest rooms are devoid of phones and television sets, but all are air-conditioned and all have private decks with views of the harbour or sound. At night, you'll wend your way along a dimly lighted path from your room to the lounge or dining room. From Treasure Cay, take a taxi to the dock and then the ferry over to Green Turtle Cay. The rate for one or two persons per night is $145 and for three, $165. MAP is an extra $36 per night. tel. 242-365-4271, or write The Green Turtle Club, PO Box 270, Green Turtle Cay, Abaco, Bahamas. www.greenturtleclub.com.

The Green Turtle Club & Marina

The Bluff House Beach Hotel & Yacht Club is up on a hill overlooking White Sound and offers fine views of the island and the town of New Plymouth in the distance. The hotel has 30 guest accommodations, including rooms, suites and villas. All are air-conditioned, have private porches, and views of the water. The clubhouse, overlooking the pool and the ocean, is decorated with original paintings and framed posters. Guests can use the tennis courts free of charge, and the staff will arrange diving and fishing trips. Daytime boat rides to New Plymouth are also free for guests. The daily room rate is $90 for up to two persons, and $125 for three people. MAP is $34 extra per day. tel. 242-365-4247, or write Bluff House, Green Turtle Cay, Abaco, Bahamas. e-mail info@bluffhouse.com, www.bluffhouse.com.

Cottage at the Bluff House

Man-O-War Cay

Schooner's Landing sits on the water's edge a short walk from the marina. Each of the resort's two-story units has two bedrooms, two baths, and comes fully equipped with all the amenities you expect to find at a luxury resort, including a beach far away from the crowds and smell of the city. 

With no motor vehicles on the island except for those of the utilities, you must walk everywhere, but that's a large part of the resort's appeal. Nowhere is more than a mile away and the fresh air and splendid views, not to mention the exercise you'll get, are food for the soul. To get to Man-O-War, fly into Marsh Harbour, take a taxi to the ferry dock and then ride over to the island, where a representative from the resort will meet you. The rate per person per night is $150, EP only. tel. 242-365-6072, or write Schooner's Landing, Man-O-War Cay, Abaco, Bahamas. http://oii.net/schooners.

Marsh Harbour

The Conch Inn at Marsh Harbour is on the waterfront, East Bay Street, less than 10 minutes from the airport, and only five minutes from the ferry dock. There are 10 rooms, each with a view of the water, twin beds, private baths, televisions, and air-conditioning, but no telephones. The hotel restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, is something of an institution and watering hole for locals and visitors. The room rate is $85 per night for one or two persons, and $95 for three persons, EP only. tel. 242-367-4000 for reservations, or write to The Conch Inn, PO Box 434, Marsh Harbour, Abaco, Bahamas. www.go-abacos.com/conchinn.

Pelican Beach Villas, a small resort on Pelican Shores across from Marsh Harbour Marina, offers five comfortable, two-bedroom, two-bathroom villas, each with a full kitchen, living room, and private deck on the beachfront. With all the amenities of Marsh Harbour and its marina close by, you'll always have plenty to see and do, from deep-sea fishing to scuba diving, and from boating to hiking. The resort is only minutes away from the airport and ferry dock, where you can take a sightseeing trip around the islands. The rate is $145 per night for one person, $160 for two, and $175 for three; EP only. The weekly rate is $975, with an additional $75 per extra person. To make reservations, tel. 800-642-7268, or write Pelican Beach Villas, PO Box AB20304, Marsh Harbour, Abaco, Bahamas. www.pelicanbeachvillas.com.

Abaco Beach Resort & Boat Harbour in Marsh Harbour adjoins Boat Harbour Marina. It's a modern hotel with an extensive range of facilities. The opulent rooms and two-bedroom villas, all facing the pool, beach and/or the marina, have air-conditioning, satellite television, telephones (a real luxury in the Abacos), balconies and well-lit dressing areas. You'll find there's lots to see and do. You can rent a boat at the marina and go exploring by yourself, take a guided boat trip around the nearby islands, or go deep-sea fishing or scuba diving. 

Room at Abaco Beach Resort

You can stroll the waterfront and pristine beaches, go shelling in front of the hotel, or grab a bike and head off into town or down the road for a day of sightseeing. There is also a fine restaurant with a five-star chef in charge of the cuisine. The daily rate, depending upon the season, varies from a low of $95 per person for an ocean-view room to a high of $350 for what they call a "Grand Villa." Fly into Marsh Harbour and take a taxi to the resort. tel. 800-468-4799, or write the Great Abaco Beach Hotel, PO Box 511, Marsh Harbour, Abaco, Bahamas. www.abacoresort.com.

Spanish Cay

Spanish Cay Resort & Marina. If you're looking for something really different, this is it. Spanish Cay is a private island, a world away from civilization. Privacy is the essence of a vacation here. With more than 180 acres of tropical forests and mangroves, miles and miles of secluded beaches where the water is the palest jade, and the reef at the ocean's edge only a mile away, you'll find seclusion easily. That's not to say that you'll have to give up all those little luxuries that make for an enjoyable vacation. With its five luxury suites and seven apartments, the Inn is a small, self-contained resort with two restaurants, four tennis courts, and the outgoing atmosphere of a local yacht club. 

Spanish Cay Resort & Marina

While on the island, you'll have the use of a golf cart and a set of snorkeling gear. You can hike around the island, go fishing, or rent a boat and spend your days on the water. To get there, fly into Treasure Cay and take a taxi to the ferry dock, where you'll find a boat waiting to take you over to Spanish Cay. The rate per night per person is $180; EP only. tel. 800-688-4725, 242-365-0083, www.spanishcay.com, or write the Inn at Spanish Cay, PO Box AB22504, Cooper's Town, Abaco, Bahamas.

Treasure Cay

Treasure Cay Hotel Resort & Marina. Located some 17 miles north of Marsh Harbour, Treasure Cay is home to one of the largest resorts in the Out Islands. It caters to a wide cross-section of adventurers: golfers, boaters, divers, bone fishermen and -women, and blue water anglers. The resort is a a diverse complex of hotel rooms, cottages and condos - some 95 units in all. All guest units are air-conditioned and come with mini-fridges, hair dryers, coffeemakers, and ironing gear; the larger, deluxe units have microwave ovens too. The villas, recently renovated, have full kitchens and washers and dryers. Some of the suites have loft bedrooms, some have marina views, all are nicely furnished and tastefully decorated. Perhaps the most unusual facility on the property is its 18-hole golf course, the only one in the Abacos. Golfers take note: if you're looking for something really different, give this one a try. Also of note to blue water anglers is the resort's Annual Treasure Cay International Billfish Tournament held in June each year (call tel. 800-224-2627 or visit www.treasurecayfishing.com for details). As to the rest of the property: the gardens are a riot of tropical color, the beach is spectacular, the restaurant menu includes cuisine from Europe and America, the bars serve just about any concoction you might be able to imagine. There's also a full service dive shop, six tennis courts, a 150-slip marina, and you can hire fishing guides and dive guides on the property. Treasure Cay, Abaco. tel. 800-327-1584; fax 242-365-8847; www.treasurecay.com. Rates from $180 through $395. MAP available.

Walker's Cay

Walker's Cay Hotel & Marina provides the only accommodation on Walker's Cay. The 62 rooms and four villas make for a comfortable stay, although there are no telephones or televisions. The main house has a dining room, a shop, an indoor game room, and an indoor-outdoor bar. The island itself is a sportsman's paradise, and the hotel staff will be pleased to make arrangements for custom excursions to scuba dive, deep-sea fish, or shark dive. The nightly rate for two persons is $100, for three persons it's $120. MAP costs $32-50 extra per night. tel. 800-925-5377; e-mail info@walkerscay@com, www.walkerscay.com.

Wood Cay

The Tangelo Hotel, on the main highway in Wood Cay, has 12 rooms with private baths, air-conditioning, ceiling fans, satellite TV, and complimentary pick-up for boaters in Fox Town, or from the airport. The restaurant, with its bar, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, specializing in Bahamian food such as stewed fish, conch salad, fresh grouper, and peas and rice. Fishing trips and guides can be arranged. The room rate is $66 per night, EP only. tel. 242-367-2222 for reservations, or write to The Tangelo Hotel, PO Box 830, Cooper's Town, Abaco, Bahamas. http://oii.net/tangelo.