There are two delicate subjects that visitors to Thailand should be aware of - the Royal family and religion. The Thai people hold a deep reverence for the King and Queen and their children, and they expect visitors to show respect. King Bhumibol is an elderly man in his late 70s but he still plays a major role in Thai life. His lengthy unscripted speeches are listened to by almost everyone, and his word is important. He keeps a watchful eye on national affairs and is often critical of the prime minister and the government. In his 77th-birthday speech he covered a range of topics, from the dangers of smoking to his concern for young people's music and the damage it can cause to their hearing. His greatest attribute is that, despite his royal position, he is very much a man of the people and enjoys simple pleasures. After this latest speech he drove himself home in a Honda Civic. His birthday, on December 5, is celebrated as a national holiday. We have attended celebrations for his birthday; at exactly 7:27pm the nation maintains a one-minute silence in tribute to him, and many people do this while holding an illuminated candle.