Things to See

Temples

The two most popular tourist attractions in Bangkok are the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew) and the Grand Palace. They are next to each other, and one ticket gets you into both places. The temple and the palace have something in common: they don't have full-time residents. No monks live in this temple, which makes it unique in Thailand, and the King doesn't live in the palace. His home is just a block or so away.



 

 

Wat Phra Kaew

 

The usual way to visit these two incredible sights is with a city tour. However, you can make your own way here. If you do that, come first thing in the morning; the complex opens at 8:30am, and it will be less crowded and a little cooler. The entrance fee is 200 Baht and, should you make the error of arriving inappropriately clad - sleeveless tops and shorts are not acceptable - more appropriate clothing can be borrowed at the entrance gates.


Temple of the Emerald Buddha: If you see just one temple in Thailand, make it this one. The dozens of buildings that make up the complex are an architectural delight adorned with brilliant mosaics and golden spires.

The main attraction is the temple that houses the Emerald Buddha, a tiny statue stuck up high and difficult to see. Three times a year the King comes to this temple to change the Buddha's robe. During the summer the robe is gold with diamonds; plain gold during the winter; and a monk's robe during the rainy season.


The Grand Palace that adjoins Wat Phra Kaew is made up of several very impressive halls, which have all played a role in Thai history. The Amarinda Hall is still used today for special occasions and houses the antique throne. The Grand Palace Hall is where the present king's elder brother was found shot dead in 1946; it has not been used as a royal residence since.


Wat Arun, Temple of Dawn, is probably the best known of all the Thai temples since it is featured in many of the ads promoting Thailand. Best views of the famous five-tower landmark are from the river. It stands majestically across from the Grand Palace. All river tours stop here for a short while; if you want more time, come on your own (take the 2-Baht ferry crossing from the Tha Tien Pier on Thai Wang Road). The temple's main feature is the 100-meter high central pagoda, which is covered in multi-colored Chinese porcelain chips - some of which were part of the ballast of the old Chinese ships that used to make crossings to Bangkok - that were donated by local people. Open daily from 7:30am to 5:30pm. Admission: 20 Baht. The ferry operates from 6am to 10pm. You can get great views by climbing up to the second tier of the base that supports the central tower.

Wat Pho: South of the Grand Palace, and better known to the Thais as Wat Phra Chetuphon. A temple might seem to be an unlikely place to learn massage, but this is one of the skills taught at this temple, the oldest and largest in Bangkok. The temple is best known for its enormous reclining Buddha image that is covered in gold leaf, 46 meters long and 15 meters high. Within the 20 acres that the temple complex occupies there are more than 1,000 other Buddha images - a record number for any one Thai temple. The original wat was built in the 16th century - 200 years before Bangkok became Thailand's capital. It has been rebuilt several times since and bears little resemblance to the original structure. The wat has played an important role in teaching traditional Thai medicine, and Thai massage in particular. The temple offers one-hour (250 Baht) and half-hour (150 Baht) treatments. Foot reflexology and herbal treatments are also offered. For those who want to learn the art, 30-hour courses are available at a cost of 6,000 Baht. The lessons can be taken over a period of up to 15 days. The massage center is at the rear of the wat; there's normally a wait for massages unless you get here at opening time. Open daily from 8am to 5pm; tel. 02221 2974. Admission is 20 Baht and you can hire an English-speaking guide at the entrance for 150 Baht.

 

 

 

Wat Phra Chetuphon

 

Museums

The National Museum, Bangkok: If you want to immerse yourself in Thai culture and history there is no better place than this. There is probably too much to see and it is easy to spend an entire day browsing and learning. With an admission fee of 40 Baht that includes a guide book and map, it is a Bangkok bargain. The place rarely gets crowded since it is not on many of the city tours. The museum (tel. 02224 1404) is on Naphra That Road between Thammasart University and the National Theater. It is opposite the Sanam Luang, that large oval field in front of the Grand Palace. Open every day from 9am to 4pm except Mondays, Tuesdays and national holidays.


The collections of art and antiquities are phenomenal. The highlight for us was the royal family's funeral chariots that are housed in building 17. Yes, there are a lot of buildings many of which are not air conditioned. The chariot that caught our eye is named Vejayant Rajarot and was built in 1785 on the orders of Rama I. It was used to carry the urn containinghis remains at his funeral. It was last used in 1985 for the funeral of Queen Rambhai Bharni, wife of Rama VII. The chariot weighs 40 tons, stands 13 meters high and it takes 300 men to pull it.


As you wander around there are things ancient, and very ancient and modern. There are weapons and musical instruments, jewels and royal regalia, furniture and architectural wonders. Fortunately there is an inexpensive café in the center of things where you can regain your strength. Volunteers give free tours in English every Wednesday and Thursday starting at 9:30am. The museum is open from 9am to 4pm from Wednesday thru Sunday.


Vimanmek Mansion Museum: If you want to see some royal treasures without the crowds, then this largest-in-the-world teak building is the place to head for. The main three-story teak mansion and its associated buildings are in the Dusit Palace on Ratchawithi Road. The royal collection includes photography by the King and special handicrafts from around the country that have been collected by the Queen. There is a demonstration of Thai dancing twice a day, at 10:30am and 2pm. Open daily, except holidays, from 9:30am to 4pm; the 100-Baht admission charge includes a guided tour in English. Appropriate attire required. tel. 02628 6300.


Jim Thompson's House: The life story of James Harrison Wilson Thompson is like a James Bond novel. His life was as colorful and exciting as the colors of the vast silk empire that he created. Born in Greenville, Delaware in 1906, he became an architect in New York. He volunteered to join the army when the Second World War began and was enrolled into the OSS, the Office of Strategic Services that later became the Central Intelligence Agency, and his clandestine work took him to North Africa and Asia. At the end of the war he was station head in Bangkok.


He became enamored of Thailand and at the end of the war decided to stay on. His first project was to help in the remodeling of the Oriental Hotel. And then he turned his attention to developing the silk industry, which at the time was a dying industry. His artistic and marketing skills created the Jim Thompson silk empire and have made Thailand a major source of quality silk today.

The home he created in Bangkok is a complex of six traditional Thai houses that were brought from different parts of Thailand and set in lavish grounds. If you wish to tour the property you must take a guide; the tour will give you an insight into the man who became known as the host with the most. He loved entertaining and his guests included people like Noel Coward and W. Somerset Maugham.


The house is in the center of Bangkok, opposite the National Stadium on Rama I Road. Open from 9am to 5pm. Admission: 100 Baht for adults and 50 Baht for students.


The Royal Barge Museum: Thailand's royal barges have played a major role in Bangkok's life for centuries. Today there is only a handful left and they are on display here. Originally used as ships of war, they date back as far as 1357. Back in the 1600s there were hundreds in use to ferry the nobility around but since then they have taken a battering. When the Burmese attacked the Thai capital in 1782 they burned the entire fleet, and King Rama I was only able to replace some of them. In more recent times most of the remaining fleet was damaged by bombing in World War II. The present King restored a number of those to the condition that you see them in today. Star of the fleet has to be the Suphanahong (Golden Swan), weighing fifteen tons and needing a crew of 80 to power her. She was carved out of one huge tree trunk. The royal family used to make an annual trip down the river to give robes to monks at the end of the Buddhist Lent, a time when the holy men are not allowed to travel. Easiest way to get to the museum is by boat; most of the river and canal tours stop here. Arun Amarin Road, tel. 2424 0004. Admission is 30 Baht and the museum, more of a warehouse, is open from 8:30am until 4:30pm.


Kasetsart University: Exhibition of Thai textiles and traditional costumes. For those interested in learning about the history of textiles and costumes, the university has set up a permanent exhibition at its Office of Agricultural Museum & Culture, 50 Phahon Yothin Road, Chatuchak. Object of the exhibition is show how culture and traditions have been handed down through weaving and textiles. More info at tel. 2942 8711, ext 108.

Around the City

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market: This is one of those little adventures you've got to make time for when you visit Bangkok. Yes, it is very touristy, but you'll see a slice of Thai life that has dominated this kingdom for centuries - living on the canals. Children born here are normally dunked into the murky water soon after birth to immunize them from the tropical diseases. And when you look around you'll see how well they survive. The big plus is the color of the whole thing. The fruits and vegetables that are grown in orchards and gardens around the water are piled high on rowing boats and traded between the river dwellers. There is a wide variety of produce - including cabbages, grapes, papayas, oranges and onions.

 

 

 

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

 

There are several ways to see this spectacle, which happens every day of the year, starting around 6am. It normally lasts around five hours and it is advisable to be here early to see the best of the produce, with fewer tourists, and cooler temperatures. You can come with a group tour, or drive down on your own; the market is just over 100 kilometers southwest of Bangkok and the drive will take about two hours. A private tour will cost about 3,500 Baht. For the economically minded there are buses leaving Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes. The air conditioned bus costs 50 Baht, and one without A/C a mere 30 Baht.


If you take a tour it will begin at a staging area ahead of the market and be ferried in on a diesel-powered longtail boat. This gives you the advantage of being on the same level as the traders. When we took the ride we really thought we were in the middle of the wilderness until we saw an old tin sign hanging from a tree demanding that we Drink Coca Cola.


Most of the tours stop for lunch at the Rose Garden on the return journey. This retreat, though touristy, gives a great insight into Thai culture. There are demonstrations of Thai dancing and Thai boxing, a chance to see elephants at work and a ceremony involving monks. If you are going on your own it's worth a visit, and the food is good too.


If you buy the full-day tour it will include a visit to Nakorn Pathom, site of the world's largest Buddhist monument, and the most important in Thailand. You'll leave Bangkok at 7:30am and return at 6pm; the full-day tour will cost around 1,500 Baht, and it's a fun and educational day.

Chinatown: You can't call the Chinese interlopers in Bangkok society. They were moved to this area almost 300 years ago when King Rama I moved the Thai capital from Ayutthaya and wanted the land the Chinese merchants occupied to build the Grand Palace.


And in all that time the place hasn't really entered the 20th century, let alone the current one. It is tough and grimy. Its traffic-choked streets are full of cheap markets and delightful smelly food stalls. If you came to see modern-day Bangkok you are in the wrong place. There is one tourist attraction here - yes, you guessed it, a temple. Wat Traimit attracts a lot of attention, not because it is a wonderful temple, but because it has a big solid-gold Buddha weighing in at five tons. Legend has it that the Buddha, covered in a thick coat of stucco, was being moved when it fell from a crane. The stucco fell apart to reveal the gold. It is believed that the coating was put on hundreds of years ago to stop the Buddha being stolen by the invading Burmese.

 

 

 

Buddha in Wat Traimit

 

The entrance fee to Wat Traimit is 20 Baht, and it is open from 9am to 5pm. To avoid the constant traffic snarl, the easiest way to get here is by boat. Tha Ratchawong pier is only a couple of hundred yards from Yaowarat Road, Chinatown's main road, where the temple is located.


As you poke around the noisy streets of Chinatown you'll find the best prices in Bangkok for almost everything, from jewelry to auto parts, fabrics and paints. There are dozens of places selling gold and antiques, both old and newly antiquated. Then there are the fascinating Chinese medicine shops with something for anything that ails you. Few people here speak English and most of the Chinese don't speak Chinese. There's no such thing as a quiet time to visit. There are lots of good places to eat authentic Thai-Chinese food, which seems to have fewer of those dreaded tiny red bits.


Records show that 100 years ago the area had a green-light district (brothel keepers hung green lanterns to advertise their trade) with - in addition to the brothels - over 200 opium dens, plenty of pawn shops and countless gaming houses. Most of that stuff is illegal now. And we certainly didn't see any opium dens.

Pahurat: If you detected the aroma of curry in the area while you were in Chinatown, it was coming from here. Pahurat is just west of Chinatown; it is Bangkok's Little India, the site of the city's largest textile market.


Bargaining is expected at the enormous fabric market, which is known for its variety, everything from your basic white to the multi-colored cottons and silks for which it's famous. If you want fabrics for clothes or for covering furniture this is the place to find it. As you might expect, there are numerous excellent Indian restaurants in addition to the small stalls selling tidbits to munch while you shop. Great place to find those ornate sandals with large globs of colored glass and Indian jewelry. Other items worth buying are Indian spices and incense. Temple seekers do not despair. There is one in Pahurat - the largest Sikh temple outside of India. Here you not only have to remove your shoes before entering but you must also cover your head.


Rice-Barge Cruise: There are numerous ways to get between Bangkok and the kingdom's ancient capital of Ayutthaya, just 76 kilometers north. The most recent trip we made was aboard the luxury train Eastern & Oriental Express. There are several enjoyable cruises, and it's an easy ride by bus.

Tharnatep Pintusan, owner of Educational Travel Center, has developed another way to make the journey using a converted rice barge, the Thanatharee. You can't call it luxury but you do get to live like the locals and learn Thai cooking - not in a luxury hotel kitchen under the supervision of a master chef, but on the stern of the barge as it chugs slowly up the Chao Phraya River.


Mr. Tharnatep feels that Thai life has changed dramatically in Bangkok. "I noticed that once you sail upstream, away from the city, the inseparable link between the river and Thai people reasserts itself. We can capture that on our barge trip," he says. For his efforts Mr. Tharnatep gained the 2004 Award of Excellence for inbound tours awarded by Tourism Authority of Thailand.


The Thanatharee carries 12 passengers who sleep in bunks, multi-share style, on the lower deck of the stout teakwood barge. There is just one shower and two toilets but, "Our guests have all day to shower so it is not an issue on a slow-moving barge," Mr. Tharnatep says.


While this is not the most luxurious of river barges, the price for the three-day, two-night adventure, including all meals, is a reasonable $196 per person. No fancy designer toiletries or lotions provided but you will get soap and towels.


Mr. Tharnatep says says his tours are meant to be a learning experience, an encounter with rural Thai values and heritage. He offers a hands-on approach to travel; guests can learn how to cook a meal in the small galley tucked into the stern of the barge. At an early-morning stop at the thriving market of Prathum Thani, 35 kilometers north of Bangkok, passengers can shop for fresh spices, vegetables and fruits, learning firsthand about the ingredients that make Thai cuisine so special.


"Passengers live for two and a half days almost as the villagers do, close to the river, dining on its fresh fish and the finest rice harvested in the vast emerald-green paddy fields of the Chao Phraya delta," he says. He has several itineraries; the one that follows was particularly appealing.


Day One: The Thanatharee departs Bangkok at 8:30am and heads to Ko Kred, an island in the middle of the Chao Phraya River. Here you explore the Mon pottery-making village before moving on to Pathum Thani market, where fresh meats, vegetables and various local goods are sold. Lunch is served on the way. There is a short stop at Wat Pailom, well known as a winter nesting ground of the Asian openbill stork, which migrates from Northern India and Siberia. The barge then heads upriver on Maenam Noi, a small branch of the main Chao Phraya River. You arrive at Wat Singh at approximately 6pm, tie up for the night and enjoy dinner on board.


Day Two: Before the cruise moves on there is an opportunity to give food to the monks on their morning alms round. After breakfast the cruise continues along the Maenam Noi. There are bicycles available, and you'll have time to explore the villages along the river, then rejoin the barge at Wat Kophai. The cruise continues to Bang Sadej, where it's back on the bikes to visit the town's famous temple and a local orphanage where hill-tribe children receive an education and vocational training. At the main village you'll meet the local people and see the cottage industries they engage in. The second night is spent at Pamok.

Day Three: You can take a short morning bicycle ride to Pamok market and get some local food to add to your breakfast, if you wish. After breakfast there is time to visit the local Pamok School, and visits to a local family that makes drums and the local market are included before the cruise moves on to Ayutthaya, where it docks at the train-station pier around noon.


The Educational Travel Center can arrange transfers to and from Bangkok and sightseeing in the country's ancient capital. Thanatharee Rice Barge, Educational Travel Center, tel. 02224 0043, www.thanatharee.com.


Red Cross Snake Farm: If you've looked ahead in the book and sneaked a peek at the Phuket chapter you'll know what we think about snake shows. However, this one does have some redeeming features. This is Bangkok's largest collection of those slithery creatures, and it is right in the city center at 1871 Rama IV Road, tel. 02252 0161, across from the Montien Hotel. The redeeming feature is that the Red Cross sells a helpful medical guide and has a clinic where you can be immunized against some of those unpleasant tropical diseases like cholera and typhoid. Twice a day, at 10am and 2pm, there is a 20-minute slide presentation about Thailand's dangerous snakes and the antidotes produced by the Red Cross. If you stay on, you'll get to see a live show with professionals handling cobras, vipers and kraits. There is also a two-meter-long python you can play with. Fortunately this is not compulsory. Entrance fee is 70 Baht.


Erawan Shrine: The daily highjinks here are as bizarre as the history of this highly ornate shrine. It is at the corner of Ploenchit and Rajdamri Roads, one of Bangkok's noisiest and busiest intersections. Fifty years ago the Thai Hotel and Tourist Company was trying to build a hotel on the site. Everything went wrong.

 

 

 

Erawan Shrine

 

After numerous delays and labor disputes it was decided, as is the Thai way, to bring in a holy man to see if he could sort things out. He decided that they had picked the wrong date to lay the foundation stone and the only way to solve the problem was to erect a shrine dedicated to Brahma, the Hindu creation god, and Erawan, his three-headed elephant. It worked: the hotel, now the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, was completed without a hitch.


This is the place to come seeking good fortune and to pay homage for receiving it. And come they do. Many bring gifts of flowers, miniature wooden elephants, and candles. Plenty of incense is burned, so much that it overpowers the traffic fumes. Should you forget to bring a gift there are nearby stalls selling suitable presents. And you can also hire dancers attired in traditional Thai costumes or an orchestra. The whole thing is a great photo opportunity and a wonderful way to watch Thai dancing. This is very true Thai and a big plus is that is free - provided you don't pay for the piper or presents. Closest SkyTrain station is Chit Lom.


Bang Pa-In Palace: This one-time summer residence of the royal family is worth the 40-mile drive north from Bangkok. Little used today except for a rare ceremonial occasion, this collection of buildings gives you an idea of the opulence enjoyed by the kings of yesteryear. The original palace was built on an island in the Chao Phraya river in the 17th century by King Prasat Thong, who was shipwrecked here as a young man. The site was abandoned, and it was King Mongkut (King Rama IV) who began rebuilding the site in the 19th century. This is the king of Anna and the King of Siam fame. There has always been controversy in Thailand over the novel by Anna Leonowens and the films that were based on her writing, but certain things are fact. Mongkut did have over 80 children by dozens of wives. And he did have a huge harem. In 1862 he employed "Mrs. Anna" to educate his wives and children. What happened after that is a matter of opinion and myth.. Today there is a modern boat to take you round the island, which is home to yet another temple, Wat Niwettham Prawat. The boat departs every hour from Bang Pa-In Pier from 9am until 3pm and the cost is just 35 Baht.


Thai Boxing: We decided to list this under Things to See rather than Things to Do. There are indeed several gyms where you can learn or practice this ancient art of self-defense but we opted to be spectators rather than hospital patients. There are two main arenas where you can enjoy the spectacle. Ratchadamnoen Stadium, Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue, tel. 2281 4205, has fights on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays; the action switches to the Lumphini Stadium on Rama IV Road, tel. 2251 4303 on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. We use the word "spectacle" deliberately. It's not just the athletic kick-boxing that you get to see but the pre-fight ceremonies and the frantic betting. And it all comes with music from a small orchestra, which varies its program depending on the pace of the boxing.

Thai boxing has been around for 500 years. The ancient rulers were masters of the art and insisted that all their fighting forces were trained in hand-to-hand combat; it is still used in military training today. What you see today is tame compared to the old days, when the fists became weapons of mega-destruction. The hands were bandaged with string and sprinkled with fragments of glass, then submerged in a gooey substance that eventually set rock hard. Then the battle commenced. It could be one of the reasons the country was never colonized.


Thai boxing, or Muay Thai, to use the local words, is big business in Thailand. There are over 60,000 professional fighters in the country and to perform at either of these two stadiums is considered a great honor. Each match consists of five three-minute rounds with a welcome two-minute breather between each round. The boxers battle with feet, fists, arms and anything else but their heads. It's exhausting even to watch. Ringside seats cost 1,000 Baht, but we were quite happy to sit farther away from the fighters and paid about half of that fee. You can arrive by taxi and purchase tickets at the windows, which are clearly marked with the price of tickets, or do as we did and have the hotel organize the tickets and transportation.


Dusit Zoo: Not only is it a zoo but a fine park, where you can rent paddleboats and dine under the shade of large trees. The zoo, also known as Khao Din, is between the Chitralada Royal Palace and the National Assembly. There's a good variety of African and Asian animals, including the royal white elephants, and tropical birds in an ornamental garden. Elephant rides for the younger ones. Open daily from 8am to 6 pm. Adults pay 30 Baht, children 5 Baht.


Siam Water Park: A visit to this attraction, northeast of Bangkok, is a good example of how much more you get for your money in Thailand. Admission for a child here is 100 Baht. We visited several water parks in southern Spain earlier in the year and spent almost four times that amount for admission. And then we had to pay for the extras: a sun bed, use of the changing rooms and a locker. That's all included here, and there's a lot more for everyone to do. There's an aviary, zoo, playground and botanical gardens, plus a full selection of water activities. It's open longer, from 10am to 10pm, the food and service are better and cheaper and, of course, it doesn't close in the winter. The park is in Munburi, a 30-minute drive east from the Lat Phrao flyover, tel. 02919 7200.


Horse Racing: Bangkok has two race tracks. The Royal Turf Club of Thailand is on Phitsanulok Road, tel. 2800 0020. The Royal Bangkok Sports Club track is on Henri Dunant Road, tel. 2510 0181. Meetings alternate every Sunday between the two tracks. Admission charges range from 50 Baht to 100 Baht.


Benjasiri Park: This park was opened to commemorate the 60th birthday of Queen Sirikit in 1992. It adjoins the Queens Park Hotel on Sukhumvit Road and is close to the Emporium shopping complex. There are several contemporary sculptures and a Thai pavilion showing some of the work undertaken by the Queen. There is a children's playground, roller-skating rink, swimming pool and basketball and takraw courts. No charge for admission and open daily from 5am until 8pm.

Suan Luang Rama IX Park: This royal park at Sukhumvit 103 Road opened in 1987 to commemorate the King's 60th birthday. The grounds are divided into six areas. There is a botanical garden on the north side and in another area there is a nine-sided tower honoring King Rama IX. There's a great use of water with ponds, streams and a waterfall. There is a reservoir that is used for water sports, and a large arena used for shows, both agricultural and cultural.


Seri Thai Park: This 145-acre park is the only lake park in Bangkok and was formerly known as Bueng-ta-thong Pond; it is named in honor of the Seri Thai movement, the World War II resistance group that worked with the allies during the Japanese occupation. For many years the area was an abandoned reservoir. When it was transformed into a park it became part of a flood-prevention project to help control water during the rainy season. There is a wide selection of Thai plants and trees. Among the tree varieties spread through the park are Borneo mahogany, cassia, banyan and royal poinciana in addition to numerous varieties of palm and fruit trees. Plants and flowers originating in Thailand dominate in the flower and fruit gardens. Admission is free and the park, open from 5am to 8pm, is near the Siam Water Park at Sukhaphiban 2 Road, Khlongkum.


The Princess Mother Memorial Park: This royal park, Somdet Phra Sri Nagarindra, also has a museum and a model of the house where the Princess Mother lived as a child. The main park area is filled with very old fig trees and numerous flowering shrubs. The exhibition halls display gifts given for the royal funeral as well as many of her personal effects. There is a paved jogging track. The park, on Somdet Chao Phraya Road, is open every from 6am to 6pm and the museum from 9am to 4pm but closed on public holidays. Admission is free. Nearby is the Chao Phor Seua Shrine, highly regarded by the Chinese community. The shrine, with a red and gold main arch, is covered with ornate carvings of fish, dragons and swords. Followers pay homage with flowers and garlands, which can be bought at the nearby street stalls.