MEASURING GAUGE IN THE ROUND.
Ask any crocheter what their least favorite part of crocheting is, and you’ll have a fifty-fifty chance of hearing “Making a gauge swatch.” (The other half will tell you it’s weaving in ends!) As much as we dislike it, gauge is a necessary evil. If your gauge does not match the design, then your finished item has the opportunity to take on a life of its own. In the case of this book, your hat could end up fitting an elephant if your gauge is too big. Or it could end up becoming a great item to donate to your local NICU ward for premature babies.
With this book, I have tried to make the gauge process as easy as possible. Most of the designs require you to make a round gauge. You will start the hat and then, within the first few rounds, you measure your gauge. If you’re lucky, you’ll be spot-on at that point. If your circle is too small or big, you’ll only have to rip out a few rounds (instead of the entire hat!) and change your hook. But no matter what, it is important to check your gauge.
When the gauge of the pattern reads something like “First 5 rounds in pattern = 4" (10.2cm),” this means to start working the pattern exactly as it is written. Once you complete round 5, lay your circle flat and place your ruler vertically across the top. Make sure that the ruler is centered and hitting the exact center of your circle. If your hat measures 4" (10.2cm), your gauge is perfect and you can continue crocheting your hat. If it measures less than 4" (10.2cm), go up a hook size or two. More than 4" (10.2cm)? Grab a smaller hook and start again.
MEASURING GAUGE IN THE ROUND.
When you come across a pattern where the gauge reads “10 sts and 11 rows in sc = 4" (10.2cm),” this means you will be working in rows. Unfortunately, you will have to take a few extra minutes before starting your project to make a gauge swatch. Since it reads “sc” (single crochet), you will start by chaining at least that number of stitches plus one. I usually add at least half of the original desired number because I want my gauge swatch to be bigger than the 4" (10.2cm): it is easier to measure that way. So, I would then chain 16 stitches (10 + 1 + 5). Then single crochet in the second chain from the hook and each chain across, ending with a total of 15 single crochet stitches. Chain one and then turn. Continue to work single crochet stitches in each stitch across until you have a total of about 17 rows. Once row 17 is complete, measure for gauge.
To do that, lay your swatch out flat and lay your ruler horizontally on top. You may want to mark the 0" and 4" (10.2cm) points with a straight pin or a different color of yarn. How many stitches do you have in between?
Next, you need to measure the rows. Turn your ruler vertically. Now place your pins or yarn at the 0" and 4" (10.2cm) marks, making sure the ruler aligns with the bottom of a row. How many rows do you have in between?
Do you have too many stitches and/or rows? Then go down a hook size or two. Not enough? Go up a hook size. Unfortunately, you have to create another swatch to see if your new hook size meets the required gauge. Once you meet your gauge, you are ready to move on to creating your new hat!
MEASURING GAUGE IN ROWS.
What happens if your square gauge swatch meets one of the requirements, but not the other? You’ll have to make a choice. Usually it’s better to have the hat fit around the circumference of your head than to have the height of the hat be perfect. Make sure that your horizontal measure (number of stitches) meets the gauge requirements and use that hook.