There is nothing like yarn. The variety of it, the textures, and the oh-so-many colors. Some horde it, some stash it, some even actually use it—imagine that! I don’t know of any crocheters who don’t have different yarns stored all over their house. Or, if they are lucky, they keep their yarns organized or cataloged, and some crocheters even have their own craft rooms! (By the way, I have a craft room. Lucky me! But it IS pretty disorganized.)
Yarns can be cool or warm, silky or scratchy, machine washable or hand washable. Yarns can be puffy, silky or even flat. Thick or thin, too. Look and you will see every color under the rainbow, from amazing brights to all-natural neutrals. You can purchase yarn in long, center-pull skeins, balls and even hanks that need to be made into balls before you can work with them.
Have I mentioned that crocheters love yarn? Where would we be without it?
Yarns come in many different fibers and contents. You can find plant- or animal-based natural yarns, man-made yarns and even blends of different yarns. Some of them can even be pretty exotic, too: ever hear of someone hand spinning yarn from human or cat hair? Prices can likewise vary from inexpensive to downright outrageous. Yarns have different textures and different properties. Don’t be afraid to feel the yarn, snuggle the yarn and even caress the yarn. I’ve seen people do it! Here is a basic rundown of some yarn characteristics to help you choose what will work for you and your new crochet project.
Natural yarns are exactly what they say they are: they come from either animals or plants. There are natural yarns that can keep you cool such as cotton, hemp or linen. These yarns come from plant-derived fibers and are great for summer wearables. They can whisk away and absorb water and make good dish cloths and pot holders. Other natural yarns can keep you very, very warm. Animal fur from sheep, goats and rabbits are spun into some of the most wonderful yarns you can imagine. Examples include wool and silk. These make great hats, scarves and sweaters.
Man-made yarns are probably the most popular with crocheters. They are usually made from a petroleum product, such as plastic. Examples include acrylic and nylon yarns. These yarns are usually very sturdy, inexpensive and machine washable. Unfortunately, man-made yarns are not as warm or absorbent as natural yarns.
If you hit some of your favorite local yarn stores, you are sure to find some wonderful exotic yarns made from alpacas, angora rabbits and even yaks! But beware, most exotic yarns are on the expensive side, so choose your crochet project wisely when using them.
One of my favorite types of yarn to crochet with are fiber blends. They usually take a desirable trait from two different fibers to make the perfect blend. For example, mixing acrylic yarn with an inelastic cotton yarn produces a light yarn with stretch. These are my favorites for summer clothing. Another great combination includes mixing acrylic with wool to make a usual hand-wash-only item into something washable. You can find so many unique combinations that I couldn’t even name them all. This is also a good way to keep costs of the yarns down while still being able to use some more exotic fibers.
One other type of yarn I would like to add here is recycled or repurposed yarns. Some yarn companies make Eco-friendly yarns out of recycled items like cotton fabrics and plastics. You can also make your own from old T-shirts, denim jeans, fabric and even used plastic grocery bags. I also love the idea of repurposing yarns from crocheted or knitted sweaters and blankets that you find at secondhand stores.
Next to color, texture is the second most attractive attribute of yarn. Some people love to work with novelty or specialty yarns like bouclé, which features a bubbly, thick/thin texture that is usually very soft and lofty. Other people like the uniqueness of fuzzy, hair-type yarns like chenille and eyelash yarns. I remember a time when flat, tape-like yarns were very popular, but now it appears that the new trend is ruffle yarns that are easy to crochet into fashionable scarves. Of course, the most popular texture of yarn is smooth because these yarns do not pill or fuzz.
The wonderful people over at the Craft Yarn Council have organized yarns into seven different standard weights and even designed cute symbols with numbers to help us identify them. These symbols help make yarn substitutions easier. Look for a picture of a skein of yarn with a number 0–6 on most kinds of yarn to figure out its “official” weight. All the projects in this book call for yarn based on these standards. The information in the chart below is taken from www.yarnstandards.com.
* Gauge (what UK crocheters call “tension”) is measured over 4" (10cm) in single crochet (except for Lace [0], which is worked in double crochet).
** US hook sizes are given first, with UK equivalents in parentheses.
*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks—the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.
Due to everyone’s unique gauge while crocheting, tension and the desired look of the finished product, suggested hook sizes are not always accurate. This chart only tells you the most common size hooks used with each yarn weight.
Let’s start with lace weight (0). This is the thin stuff, baby! Usually used for lacework, this yarn is also known as “fingering” weight yarn. Those scary steel hooks that I mentioned earlier are the standard sized hooks used with this weight of yarn. Don’t get me wrong, I am in awe of those beautiful Irish lace pieces. This intricate type of crocheting is not for everyone, though.
Super fine wieght (1) is next on the list. Also called “sock” or “fingering” yarn, this stuff is great for socks and can make some amazing lace items. As you can see, “fingering” can be another name for both sizes 0 and 1. It is standard practice for all crochet patterns written these days to use the number system to avoid confusion.
Fine weight (2) yarn is great for making socks, lace shawls and delicate baby items. That is why it is also called “baby” and “sport” weight.
Light weight (3) yarn is probably my favorite weight of yarn. You can make a variety of items from these yarns. It makes great summer wearables along and accessories. This weight of yarn is called “DK” and “light worsted.”
The most popular weight is medium weight (4). Most people know this yarn as “worsted,” “afghan” or “aran.” These yarns can be made into just about anything you desire: bags, scarves, cozy sweaters, etc.
Appropriately named, bulky weight (5) yarn makes great items that you want to be thick and warm. It is also called “chunky,” “craft” or “rug” yarn.
Last but not least is super bulky weight (6). I think it’s pretty self-explanatory, but I will add that it works up F-A-S-T! You’ll also find it called “bulky” or “roving” yarn.
Again, thanks to those wonderful people over at the Craft Yarn Council, you can walk into any craft and hobby store and be able to read all about your yarn. All of the labels will have the same information. Trust me, this makes yarn shopping so much easier! Please note that yarn labels at your local yarn store may not be as complete. Many of those yarns are made in different countries, and they do not always follow the same system when identifying their yarns.
SAMPLE YARN LABEL.
A word about dye lots: when buying multiple balls of yarn, check that all the balls have the same dye lot. This will ensure that the color is uniform between each ball. Some yarns will say “No Dye Lot” and you can rest assured that the colors will match.
Keep your yarn labels. If you make something for yourself, write on the label what it is. That way you’ll always be able to look up the care instructions for it. Giving your finished item as a gift? Give the label, too! They’ll love knowing how to take care of their precious gift.
