For centuries, getting to the Yucatán Peninsula required a major sea voyage to one of the few ports on the Gulf of Mexico, only to be followed by harrowing and uncertain land treks limited to mule trains and narrow paths through the tangled jungle. Today, the peninsula is easily accessible. Visitors arrive every day via modern airports, a network of good highways, excellent bus service, or by cruise ship. From just about anywhere in the world, the Yucatán is only hours away.
AIR
The main international airports on the Yucatán Peninsula are in Cancún and Mérida. The Cancún airport is by far the busiest, with dozens of daily domestic and international flights. There are smaller airports in Cozumel and Chetumal, and another reportedly being built in Tulum, though it remains far from completion. There also is an airport near Chichén Itzá, but currently it only receives chartered flights. In addition, there are small airports in Mahahual and Isla Holbox for private planes and air taxis.
Most travelers use the Cancún airport—it’s well located for those vacationing in the Caribbean as well as for those traveling inland. Fares typically are cheaper to Cancún than to any other airport in the region.
© LIZA PRADO
Some travelers find Cancun’s airport somewhat daunting to navigate. The key is to not get drawn into any of the many sales pitches you’ll encounter. Leaving the plane, simply follow the crowd, queueing first for immigration, then retrieving your luggage, then queueing again for customs, where you’re asked to press a button: Green means go, red means stop and have your bags searched. Once through customs, you’ll enter a large busy foyer packed with vendor booths, salespeople and tourist office folks, ranging from peppy to pushy, virtually all of whom you can ignore or politely rebuff. If you’re renting a car, look for the booth of the company you’ve reserved with and let the attendant know you’ve arrived; he or she will direct you to a shuttle to take you to the rental center. If you need a taxi, look for one of three “Yellow Transfers” booths, the official airport taxi service. To catch a bus, walk out of the terminal—ignoring the hagglers and taxi drivers clustered in front—and look for large ADO buses parked a few steps to your right; you can buy your ticket at the mobile desk set up there. If your resort has arranged transport for you, look for a driver outside the terminal with your name or the name of the resort on a sign. None of the options requires much walking so you don’t really need a porter; if you do use one, a couple dollars per bag is the customary tip.
Travelers who are planning to spend their entire time inland often choose to fly to Mérida instead—the city itself is an important destination, and it’s close to many of the area’s key sights and archaeological ruins.
Similarly, many travelers who only will be visiting Isla Cozumel fly directly there—it’s often more expensive than landing in Cancún but avoids the time and hassle of traveling from the mainland to the island (more time to dive and to enjoy the island!).
There also are airports in Campeche City and Chetumal, which are typically used for domestic travel. However, for travelers planning to spend most of their time in Campeche, they may be more convenient.
Departure Tax
There is a US$48 departure tax to fly out of Mexico—most airlines incorporate the tax into their tickets, but it’s worth setting aside some cash just in case.
BUS
The Yucatán’s main interstate bus hubs are Mérida and Cancún, with service to and from Mexico City, Veracruz, Oaxaca, and other major destinations in the country. There also are buses between Chetumal and cities in Belize and Guatemala.
CAR
Foreigners driving into Mexico are required to show a valid driver’s license, title, registration, and proof of insurance for their vehicle. Mexican authorities do not recognize foreign-issued insurance; Mexican vehicle insurance is available at most border towns 24 hours a day, and several companies also sell policies over the Internet. Do not cross the border with your car until you have obtained the proper papers.
CRUISE SHIP
Increasing numbers of cruise ships stop along Mexico’s Caribbean coast every year, some carrying as many as 5,000 people. Many sail out of Miami and Fort Lauderdale, stopping at Key West before continuing to Punta Venado (Riviera Maya), Isla Cozumel, and Mahahual.
Prices are competitive, and ships vary in services, amenities, activities, and entertainment. Pools, restaurants, nightclubs, and cinemas are commonplace. Fitness centers and shops also make ship life convenient. To hone in on the type of cruise you’d like to go on, research options on the Internet, in the travel section of your local newspaper, and by contacting your travel agent.
If your budget is tight, consider traveling standby. Ships want to sail full and are willing to cut their prices—sometimes up to 50 percent—to do so. Airfare usually is not included. Note: Once you’re on the standby list, you likely will have no choice of cabin location or size.
NEIGHBORING COUNTRIES
Cancún is an important international hub, not only for tourists from North America and Europe but also for regional flights to Central America and the Caribbean. In southern Quintana Roo, Chetumal is the gateway to Belize, and there’s a direct bus to Flores, Guatemala. Most travel to Guatemala, however, is through Chiapas, from the towns of Palenque and San Cristóbal de las Casas.
Travel agencies can book tours to Belize, Guatemala, and Cuba, though it’s relatively easy to arrange a trip yourself. Most travelers do not need prearranged visas to enter either Belize or Guatemala, but they may have to pay an entrance fee at the airport or border. Call the respective consulates for additional information.
AIR
Although budget airlines like Interjet are starting to appear on the Mexican airline scene, flying domestically is still relatively expensive, and the Yucatán is no exception. Once you factor in the check-in process, security, and baggage claim, there are very few flights within the region that make sense travel-wise, unless your time is incredibly tight. And if that is the case, you may as well see what you can do by car or bus and start planning a return trip.
BUS
Mexico’s bus and public transportation system is one of the best in Latin America, if not the Western Hemisphere. In the Yucatán Peninsula, ADO and its affiliate bus lines practically have a monopoly, but that has not made bus travel any less efficient or less affordable. Dozens of buses cover every major route many times per day, and even smaller towns have frequent and reliable service.
Buses come in three main categories:
First Class: Known as primera clase or sometimes ejecutivo, first class is the most common and the one travelers use most often. Buses have reclining seats and TVs where movies are played on long trips. First-class buses make some intermediate stops but only in large towns. The main first-class lines in the Yucatán are ADO.
Deluxe Class: Usually called lujo (luxury), deluxe class is a step up; they often are slightly faster since they’re typically nonstop. The main deluxe line is ADO-GL, which costs 10-25 percent more than regular ADO. ADO-GL buses have nicer seats and better televisions (and even more recent movies!). Sometimes there are even free bottles of water in a cooler at the back. Even nicer are ADO-Platino buses, which often charge twice as much as regular ADO. Platino offers cushy, extra-wide seats (only three across instead of four), headphones, and sometimes a light meal like a sandwich and soda.
Second Class: Segunda clase, or second class, is significantly slower and less comfortable than first class, and they’re not all that much cheaper. Whenever possible, pay the dollar or two extra for first class. Second-class buses are handy in that you can flag them down anywhere on the roadside, but that is also precisely the reason they’re so slow. In smaller towns, second class may be the only service available, and it’s fine for shorter trips. The main second-class lines in the Yucatán are Mayab, Oriente, Noreste, and ATS.
Buses, taxis, rental cars, and good old-fashioned walking: you’ll use them all while exploring the Riviera Maya.
© LIZA PRADO
For overnight trips, definitely take first-class or deluxe. Not only will you be much more comfortable, second-class buses are sometimes targeted by roadside thieves since they drive on secondary roads and stop frequently.
Wherever bus service is thin, you can count on there being frequent colectivos or combis—vans or minibuses—that cover local routes. They can be flagged down anywhere along the road.
FERRY
Ferries are used to get to and from the region’s most visited islands, including Isla Mujeres (reached from Cancún), Isla Cozumel (reached from Playa del Carmen), and Isla Holbox (reached from Chiquilá). Service is safe, reliable, frequent, and affordable.
CAR
As great as Mexico’s bus system is, a car is the best way to tour the Yucatán Peninsula. Most of the sights—ruins, deserted beaches, haciendas, caves, cenotes, wildlife—are well outside of the region’s cities, down long access roads, or on the way from one town to the next. Having a car also saves you the time and effort of walking or the cost of cabbing to all those “missing links”; it also allows you to enjoy the sights for as much or as little time as you choose.
If you’re here for a short time—a week or less—and want to sightsee, definitely get a car for the simple reason that you’ll have the option of seeing and doing twice as much. If renting for your entire vacation isn’t feasible moneywise, consider renting in choice locations: a couple of days in Mérida to see the Puuc Route, a few in Campeche to see the Río Bec archaeological zones, and a couple of days to explore the less-accessible parts of Quintana Roo. You also may want a car for a day in Cozumel to check out the island. Cars aren’t necessary to visit Cancún, Isla Mujeres, or Playa del Carmen.
Car Rental
The best rates (and best vehicles) are typically found online with the major international rental chains like Hertz, Thrifty, Budget, and Avis. That said, there are many local agencies in cities like Mérida and Cancún, however, and they occasionally have good walk-in deals.
• It’s best to book on the car rental company’s own website rather than a travel website. The prices are virtually the same, and if there are any problems, the rental office can’t blame it on the other website.
• Ask your credit card company if your card provides free collision (liability) insurance on rental cars abroad. (Most do.) Unlike ordinary insurance, you’ll have to pay any charges upfront and then file for reimbursement once you return. The coverage is usually better, though, with zero deductible and coverage even on dirt roads. Remember you have to actually use the card to pay for the rental in order to get the benefit!
• Car rental agencies make most of their money off the insurance, not the vehicle. That’s why they push so hard for you to buy coverage. They’ll warn you that with credit card insurance you’ll have to pay 100 percent of any damages upfront; this is true, but it will be reimbursed when you file a claim back home. They may require you to authorize a larger “hold” on your card, as much as US$5000, for potential damages. This is no big deal—it’s not an actual charge—but that amount will be unavailable for other purchases. Consider bringing two or more credit cards, especially if your credit limit is low.
Driving in Mexico
Having a car can make exploring the Yucatán Peninsula quicker and easier, and there are many places you can only reach with your own wheels. Here are some tips to make your driving experience a bit smoother:
Off the highways, the biggest hazard are topes (speed bumps). They are common on all roads and highways, save the toll roads. They vary in size, but many are big and burly, and hitting them at even a slow speed can do a number on you, your passengers, and your car. As soon as you see a sign announcing an upcoming town or village, be ready to slow down.
Narrow one-way streets are common in many cities in the Yucatán. Fortunately, the stop signs in those areas usually have smaller plaques (beneath the big red one) indicating direction and right of way. A black rectangle means you have the right of way, a red one means you don’t.
If you break down or run out of gas on a main road during daylight hours, stay with your car. Los Ángeles Verdes (The Green Angels, toll-free Mex. tel. 078 or 800/903-9200), a government-sponsored tow-truck and repair service, cruise these roads on the lookout for drivers in trouble. They carry a CB radio, gas, and small parts, and are prepared to fix tires. If you have a cell phone—or happen to be near a pay phone—call your car rental agency first; the Ángeles Verdes are a great backup.
• Third-party insurance is required by law, and rental agencies are technically required to provide it. Lately, however, rental agencies say third-party coverage is free for anyone who also purchases collision insurance. But if you decline their collision insurance (because you get it through your credit card), suddenly there’s a charge for third-party coverage. Credit cards typically do not offer third-party coverage, so you end up having to pay it. It’s less expensive than collision insurance, but still a bummer to pay.
Before driving off, the attendant will review the car for existing damage—definitely accompany him or her on this part and don’t be shy about pointing out every nick, scratch, and ding. Other things to confirm before driving off include:
• There is a spare tire (preferably a full-size, not temporary, one) and a working jack and tire iron.
• All doors lock and unlock, including the trunk.
• The headlights, brake lights, and turn signals work.
• All the windows roll up and down properly.
• The proper—and current—car registration is in the car. In some cases, your car rental contract serves as the registration.
• The amount of gas in the tank—you’ll have to return it with the same amount.
• There is a 24-hour telephone number for the rental agency in case of an emergency.
Highways and Road Conditions
Driving in the Yucatán isn’t as nerve-wracking as you might think. The highways are in excellent condition, and even secondary roads are well maintained. There are a few dirt and sand roads—mostly along the Costa Maya, in the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, and to some of the lesser-visited archaeological sites in Campeche. If anything, frequent—and sometimes unexpected—topes (speed bumps) in small towns are the biggest driving hazard.
The main highways in the region are Highway 307, which runs the length of Mexico’s Caribbean coast; Highway 180, the thoroughfare that links Cancún, Mérida, and Campeche City; and Highway 186, which crosses the southern portion of the Yucatán Peninsula and leads travelers to Campeche’s Río Bec region and Comalcalco in Tabasco.
In the entire region, there are only two toll roads, both sections of Highway 180: between Mérida and Cancún (a whopping US$33) and between Campeche City and the town of Champotón (US$5.50). Although far from cheap, they can save a significant amount of time driving, and are safer for driving at night. Secondary roads are free and pass through picturesque countryside and indigenous villages; they are slower and have more obstacles like pedestrians, bicycles, and speed bumps, but can be a rewarding way to go.
Taxi Scam
Beware of any taxi driver who tries to convince you that the hotel you’re going to is closed, roach infested, flooded, burned down, has no running water, was destroyed by a hurricane (add your disaster of choice). As sincere as the driver might seem, he is more often than not retaliating against hotels that refuse to pay a finder’s fee. Taxi drivers in Cancún and throughout the Riviera Maya earn significant commissions—as much as US$10 per person per night—for bringing guests to certain establishments. Some hotels refuse to pay the fee, and taxi drivers, in turn, try to take their clients to “cooperative” hotels instead. Don’t fall for it. You may have to be firm, but insist that your driver take you to the hotel of your choice. Your best option is to call ahead for a room reservation, which also serves to confirm that the hotel actually is open and operational.
Driving Scams
Most travelers have heard horror stories about Mexican police and worry about being taken for all their money or trundled off to jail without reason. While it is true that there is corruption among the police, they don’t target tourists; foreigners are, after all, the economic lifeblood of the region—the police don’t want to scare them away.
As long as you are a careful and defensive driver, it is very unlikely you’ll have any interaction with the police. Most travelers who are pulled over actually have done something wrong—speeding, running a stop sign, turning on red. In those situations, remain calm and polite. If you have an explanation, definitely give it; it is not uncommon to discuss a given situation with an officer. Who knows, you may even convince him you’re right—it’s happened to us!
Of greater concern are gas station attendants. Full service is the norm here—you pull up, tell the person how much you want, and he or she does the rest. A common scam is for one attendant to distract you with questions about wiper fluid or gas additives while another starts the pump at 50 or 100 pesos. Before you answer any questions, be sure the attendant resets, or “zeroes,” the pump before starting to pump.
HITCHHIKING
Hitchhiking is not recommended for either men or women. That said, it sometimes can be hard to know what is a private vehicle and what is a colectivo (shared van). If there’s no bus terminal nearby, your best bet is to look for locals who are waiting for public transportation and see which vans they take. If you have no choice but to hitch a ride, opt for a pickup truck, where you can sit in the back.
TOURS
Regional travel agents and tour operators offer a vast range of organized trips. You pay extra, of course, but all arrangements and reservations are made for you: from guides and transportation to hotels and meals. Special-interest trips also are common—archaeological tours, hacienda and convent routes, bird-watching and dive trips. Ask around and surf the Internet—you’ll find a world of organized adventure.
PASSPORTS
Gone are the days you could zip down to Mexico with just your driver’s license and birth certificate. Since January 2007, all U.S. citizens returning from Mexico (and elsewhere) by air, land, or sea are required to have a passport. Canadians may travel to Mexico without a passport; they simply need an official photo ID and proof of citizenship, such as an original birth certificate. All other nationalities must have a valid passport.
VISAS AND TOURIST CARDS
Citizens of most countries, including the United States, Canada, and members of the E.U., do not need to obtain a visa to enter Mexico. All foreigners, however, are issued a white tourist card when they enter, with the number of days that they are permitted to stay in the country written at the bottom, typically 30-60 days. If you plan to stay for more than a month, politely ask the official to give you the amount of time you need; the maximum stay is 180 days.
Hold onto your tourist card! It must be returned to immigration officials when you leave Mexico. If you lose it, you’ll be fined and may not be permitted to leave the country (much less the immigration office) until you pay.
To extend your stay up to 180 days, head to the nearest immigration office a week before your tourist card expires. Be sure to bring it along with your passport. There, you’ll fill out several forms, go to a bank to pay the US$25 processing fee, make photocopies of all the paperwork (including your passport, entry stamp, tourist card, and credit card), and then return to the office to get the extension. For every extra 30 days requested, foreigners must prove that they have US$1,000 available, either in cash or travelers checks, or simply by showing a current credit card. The process can take anywhere from a couple of hours to a week, depending on the office.
CUSTOMS
Plants and fresh foods are not allowed into Mexico and there are special limits on alcohol, tobacco, and electronic products. Archaeological artifacts, certain antiques, and colonial art cannot be exported from Mexico without special permission.
Above all, do not attempt to bring marijuana or any other narcotic in or out of Mexico. Jail is one place your trusty guidebook won’t come in handy.
Returning home, you will be required to declare all items you bought in Mexico. Citizens of the United States are allowed to reenter with US$800 worth of purchases duty-free; the figure for other travelers varies by country.
CONSULATES
The consulates in Cancún and Mérida handle passport issues (replacing a lost one, adding pages, etc.) and can help their citizens if they are in a serious or emergency situation, including hospitalization, assault, arrest, lawsuits, or death. They usually do not help resolve common disputes—with tour operators or hotels, for example.
Foreign consulates and consular agencies in the region include:
AUSTRIA
Cancún: Av. Tulum at Calle Pecari, tel. 998/884-5431, claudiaemx@yahoo.com.mx, 9am-2pm Monday-Friday
Mérida: Av. Colón Norte 501-C, tel. 999/925-6386, bulnesa@prodigy.net.mx, 9:30am-1pm and 5pm-8pm Monday-Friday
BELGIUM
Cancún: Plaza Tropical, Av. Tulum 192, Local 59, tel. 998/892-2512, www.diplomatie.be, 10am-2pm Monday-Friday
BELIZE
Chetumal: Calle Ramon F. Iturbe No. 476, tel. 983/832-5764, conbelizeqroo@gmail.com, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday
Mérida: Calle 53 between Calles 56 and 58, tel. 999/928-6152, consbelize@dutton.com.mx, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday
CANADA
Cancún: Plaza Caracol, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 8.5, Local 330, tel. 998/883-3360, www.canada.org.mx, 9am-5pm Monday-Friday
CUBA
Cancún: Pecari 17, tel. 998/884-3423, www.cubadiplomatica.cu/mexico, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday
Mérida: Calle 1-D between Calles 42 and 44, tel. 999/944-4216, www.cubadiplomatica.cu/mexico, 8:30am-1:30pm Monday-Friday
DENMARK
Cancún: Omni Hotel, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 16.5, tel. 998/881-0600, apresidencia@grupocancun.net, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday
FINLAND
Cancún: Edificio Popolnah, Av. Nader 28-1, tel. 998/884-1600, notariacancun@prodigy.net.mx, 9am-2pm and 5pm-8pm Monday-Friday
Mérida: Calle 86-B No. 595-B, tel. 999/984-0399
FRANCE
Mérida: Calle 60 btwn Calles 41 and 43, tel. 999/930-1500, consuladofrancia@sipse.com.mx, 9am-5pm Monday-Friday
GERMANY
Cancún: Calle Punta Conocó 36, tel. 998/884-5333, konsul_d@yahoo.com.mx, 9am-noon Monday-Friday
Mérida: Calle 49 between Calles 30 and 32, tel. 999/944-3252, konsulat@jerommel.de, 9am-noon Monday-Friday
GUATEMALA
Cancún: Edificio Barcelona, Av. Nader 148, 998/884-8296, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday Chetumal: Avenida Héroes de Chapultepec 356, tel. 983/832-3045, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday
IRELAND
Cancún: Av. Cobá 15, tel. 998/112-5436, consul@gruporoyale.com, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday
ITALY
Cancún: Parque Las Palapas, Alcatraces 39, tel. 998/884-1261, conitaca@prodigy.net.mx, 9am-2pm Monday-Friday
NETHERLANDS
Cancún: Pabellón Caribe, Av. Nichupté MZ 2, SM 19, tel. 998/884-8672, nlconsulcancun@prodigy.net.mx, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday
Mérida: Calle 64 btwn Calles 47 and 49, tel. 999/924-3122, pixan2003@prodigy.net.mx, 8am-5pm Monday-Friday
NORWAY
Cancún: Calle Venado 30, tel. 998/887-4412, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday
SPAIN
Cancún: Edificio Oasis, Blvd. Kukulcán at Calle Cenzontle, tel. 998/848-9918, consules@oasishotel.com.mx, 10am-1pm Monday-Friday
Mérida: Calle 8 btwn Calles 5 and 7, tel. 999/948-0181, 10am-1pm Monday-Friday
SWEDEN
Cancún: Omni Hotel, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 16.5, tel. 998/881-0600, katiavara@omnicancun.com.mx, tel. 998/881-0600, 9am-6pm Monday-Friday
SWITZERLAND
Cancún: above Rolandi’s restaurant, Av. Cobá 12, tel. 998/884-8446, 9am-2pm Monday-Friday
UNITED KINGDOM
Cancún: The Royal Sands Resort, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 13.5, tel. 998/881-0100, http://ukinmexico.fco.gov.uk/en, 9am-3pm Monday-Friday
UNITED STATES
Cancún: Torre La Europea, Blvd. Kukulcán Km. 13, tel. 998/883-0272, cancunagency@gmail.com, 8am-1pm Monday-Friday, appointment required for some services
Isla Cozumel: Plaza Villamar, central plaza, tel. 987/872-4574, usgov@cozumel.net, noon-2pm Monday-Friday
Mérida: Calle 60 No. 338-K btwn Calles 29 and 31, tel. 999/942-5700, www.merida.usconsulate.gov, 7:30am-4:30pm Monday-Friday, appointment required for some services
Playa del Carmen: The Palapa, Calle 1 btwn Avs. 15 and 20, tel. 984/873-0303, playausca@gmail.com, 9am-1pm Monday-Friday
UNDERAGE TRAVELERS
In the United States, anyone under 18 traveling internationally without both parents or legal guardians must present a signed, notarized letter from the parent(s) or guardian(s) granting the minor permission to leave the country. This requirement is aimed at preventing international abductions, but it causes frequent and major disruptions for vacationers.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Lodging in Cancún, Cozumel, and the surrounding area truly runs the gamut: campgrounds, hostels, small hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, boutique hotels, large modern hotels, and all-inclusive resorts. There are a handful of fishing lodges in places like Sian Ka’an reserve.
Taxes on your hotel bill, referred to generally as I.V.A. (value-added tax; pronounced EE-va in Spanish), are usually 12 percent but can be as high as 17-22 percent. Be sure to ask if the rate you’re quoted includes taxes (¿Incluye impuestos?); in many cases, especially at smaller hotels, the taxes are applied only if you pay by credit card.
You may be required to make a deposit in order to reserve a room, especially in popular areas during high season. However, in Mexico credit cards cannot be charged without a physical signature, so they aren’t much help as a deposit. Many hotels utilize PayPal or a similar service; those that do not will give you the name of their bank and account number, and you must stop by a branch and make the deposit with the teller. Be sure to get a receipt, and notify the hotel after making the deposit.
Cancellation policies tend to be rather unforgiving, especially during high season; you may be required to give a month or more advance notice to receive even a partial refund. Trip insurance is a good idea if your plans are less than concrete.
FOOD
Considered among the most distinct cuisines of the country, Yucatecan food reflects the influences of its Maya, European, and Caribbean heritage. Some of the most popular menu items include:
Cochinita Pibil: pork that has been marinated in achiote, Seville orange juice, peppercorn, garlic, cumin, salt, and pepper, wrapped in banana leaves, and baked. It’s typically served on weekends.
Dzoto-bichay: tamales made of chaya (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach) and eggs. It comes smothered in tomato sauce.
Empanizado: slices of pork or chicken that has been breaded and fried, often served with salad, rice, and beans.
Panucho: handmade tortilla stuffed with refried beans and covered with shredded turkey, pickled onion, and slices of avocado. Like a salbute plus!
Papadzules: hard-boiled eggs chopped and rolled into a corn tortilla, smothered in a creamy pumpkin-seed sauce.
Poc-Chuc: slices of pork that have been marinated in Seville orange juice and coated with a tangy sauce. Pickled onions are added on the side.
Salbute: handmade tortilla covered with shredded turkey, pickled onion, and slices of avocado.
Sopa de Lima: turkey-stock soup prepared with shredded turkey or chicken, fried tortilla strips, and juice from lima, a lime-like citrus fruit.
CLOTHING
Perhaps the single most-abused social custom in Mexico is the use of shorts. Mexicans rarely wear them outside the home or off the beach, while many foreign travelers seem to have packed nothing but. There is a bit more flexibility in beach areas, but it’s worth getting in the habit of wearing long pants or skirts whenever going to dinner, attending performances, and especially when entering churches and government offices, where shorts and tank tops are inappropriate.
Artists of all kinds can be found demonstrating their skills and plying their wares in the plazas of Cozumel and elsewhere.
© LIZA PRADO
Topless and nude sunbathing are not customary on Mexican beaches, and are rarely practiced in Cancún and other areas frequented by Americans and Canadians. However, on beaches popular with Europeans, especially Playa del Carmen and Tulum, it is more commonplace. Wherever you are, take a look around to help decide whether baring some or all is appropriate.
PHOTOGRAPHING LOCALS
No one enjoys having a stranger take his or her picture for no good reason, and indigenous people are no different. The best policy is simply not to take these photographs unless you’ve first asked the person’s permission and he or she has agreed. Tip: If the potential subject of your photo is a vendor, buy something and then ask if you can take a photo—you’re more likely to get a positive response.
GREETINGS
Even a small amount of Spanish can go a long way in showing respect and consideration for people you encounter. Make a point of learning basic greetings like buenos días (good morning) and buenas tardes (good afternoon) and using them in passing, or as preface to a conversation; it is considered somewhat impolite to launch into a discussion without greeting the other person first.
WHAT TO TAKE
Essentials for the Yucatán include sunscreen, sunglasses, and a billed hat. If you wear contacts or glasses, bring a replacement set. A good pair of shoes—or at least Teva-style sandals—are vital for exploring Maya ruins safely, and insect repellent definitely can come in handy. If you lose or forget something, Cancún, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, Mérida, and Campeche all have huge supermarkets, including Walmart.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR STUDY AND EMPLOYMENT
While it may never approach neighboring Guatemala for the sheer number of Spanish schools, the Yucatán Peninsula has a variety of options for travelers who want to learn the language. Cancún, Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen, Mérida, and Campeche City all have schools or private instruction available. All are also well positioned to maximize travelers’ enjoyment of the area’s richness, whether its beaches, Maya ruins, or colonial cities.
ACCESS FOR TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
Mexico has made many improvements for the blind and people in wheelchairs—many large stores and tourist centers have ramps or elevators. A growing number of hotels also have rooms designed for guests with disabilities, and museums occasionally create exhibits with, for example, replicas of Maya artifacts or folk art that visually impaired travelers can hold and touch. (None were currently on display at the time of research, however.) That said, Mexico is still a hard place to navigate if you have a disability. Smaller towns are the most problematic, as their sidewalks can be narrow, and even some main streets are not paved. Definitely ask for help—for what Mexico lacks in infrastructure, its people often make up for in graciousness.
TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN
The Yucatán Peninsula is a great place to take kids, whether youngsters or teenagers. The variety of activities and relative ease of transportation help keep everyone happy and engaged. Cancún and the Riviera Maya are especially family friendly, with several different ecoparks and water parks, miles of beaches, and (if all else fails) plenty of malls with movie theaters, arcades, bowling, mini-golf, aquariums, and more. Perhaps best of all, Mexico is a country where family is paramount, so kids—even fussy ones—are welcome just about everywhere.
Solo women should expect a certain amount of unwanted attention, mostly in the form of whistles and catcalls. It typically happens as they walk down the street and sometimes comes from the most unlikely sources—we saw a man dressed as a clown turn mid-balloon animal to whistle at a woman walking by. Two or more women walking together attract much less unwanted attention, and a woman and man walking together will get none at all (at least of this sort—street vendors are a different story). While annoying and often unnerving, this sort of attention is almost always completely benign, and ignoring it is definitely the best response. Making eye contact or snapping a smart retort only will inspire more attention. Occasionally men will hustle alongside a woman and try to strike up a conversation—if you don’t want to engage, a brief no, gracias should make that clear. To minimize unwanted attention, avoid revealing clothing, such as tight jeans, low-cut shirts, or bikini tops, as street wear. Carrying a notebook—or creating the appearance of working—also helps.
SENIOR TRAVELERS
Seniors should feel very welcome and safe visiting the Yucatán. Mexico is a country that affords great respect to personas de la tercera edad (literally, “people of the third age”), and especially in the tradition-minded Yucatán Peninsula. But as anywhere, older travelers should take certain precautions. The Yucatán, especially Mérida and the surrounding area, is known to be extremely hot and humid, especially May-July. Seniors should take extra care to stay cool and hydrated. Exploring the Maya ruins also can be hot, not to mention exhausting. Bring water and snacks, especially to smaller sites where they may not be commonly sold. Travelers with balance or mobility concerns should think twice about climbing any of the pyramids or other structures. They can be deceptively treacherous, with steps that are steep, uneven, and slick.
Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and Mérida all have state-of-the-art hospitals, staffed by skilled doctors, nurses, and technicians, many of whom speak English. Most prescription medications are available in Mexico, often at discount prices. However, pharmacists are woefully under-trained, and you should always double-check the active ingredients and dosage of any pills you buy here.
GAY AND LESBIAN TRAVELERS
While openly gay women are still rare in Mexico, gay men are increasingly visible in large cities and certain tourist areas. Mérida has a fairly large gay community, of which a number of expat hotel and guesthouse owners are a prominent part. Cancún and Playa del Carmen both have a visible gay presence and a number of gay-friendly venues. Nevertheless, many locals—even in large cities—are not accustomed to open displays of homosexuality and may react openly and negatively. Many hotel attendants also simply don’t understand that two travel companions of the same gender may prefer one bed—in some cases they will outright refuse to grant the request. Some couples find it easier to book a room with two queen-size beds and just sleep in one.
TRAVELING WITH IMPORTANT DOCUMENTS
Scan and/or make copies of your passport, tourist card, and airline tickets. Whether you’re traveling solo or with others, leave a copy with someone you trust at home. Store another copy online (i.e., your email account) and if you have a travel companion, give a copy to him or her. Be sure to carry a copy of your passport and tourist card in your purse or wallet and leave the originals in the hotel safe or locked in your bag; they’re a lot more likely to be lost or stolen on the street than taken by hotel staff. When you move from place to place, carry your passport and important documents in a travel pouch, always under your clothing. Write down your credit card and ATM numbers and the 24-hour service numbers and keep those in a safe place.
SUNBURN
Common sense is the most important factor in avoiding sunburn. Use waterproof and sweatproof sunscreen with a high SPF. Reapply regularly—even the most heavy-duty waterproof sunscreen washes off faster than it claims to on the bottle (or gets rubbed off when you use your towel to dry off). Be extra careful to protect parts of your body that aren’t normally exposed to the sun—a good way to cover every inch is to apply sunscreen before you get dressed—and give your skin a break from direct sun every few hours. Remember that redness from a sunburn takes several hours to appear—that is, you can be sunburned long before you look sunburned.
If you get sunburned, treat it like any other burn by running cool water over it for as long and as often as you can. Do not expose your skin to more sun. Re-burning the skin can result in painful blisters that can easily become infected. There are a number of products designed to relieve sunburns, most with aloe extracts. Finally, be sure to drink plenty of water to keep your skin hydrated.
HEAT EXHAUSTION AND HEAT STROKE
The symptoms of heat exhaustion are cool moist skin, profuse sweating, headache, fatigue, and drowsiness. It is associated with dehydration and commonly happens during or after a strenuous day in the sun, such as while visiting ruins. You should get out of the sun, remove any tight or restrictive clothing, and sip a sports drink such as Gatorade. Cool compresses and raising your feet and legs helps too.
Heat exhaustion is not the same as heat stroke, which is distinguished by a high body temperature, a rapid pulse, and sometimes delirium or even unconsciousness. It is an extremely serious, potentially fatal condition, and victims should be taken to the hospital immediately. In the meantime, wrap the victim in wet sheets, massage the arms and legs to increase circulation, and do not administer large amounts of liquids. Never give liquids if the victim is unconscious.
DIARRHEA
Diarrhea is not an illness in itself, but your body’s attempt to get rid of something bad in a hurry; that something can be any one of a number of strains of bacteria, parasites, or amoebae that are often passed from contaminated water. No fun, it is usually accompanied by cramping, dehydration, fever, and of course, frequent trips to the bathroom.
If you get diarrhea, it should pass in a day or two. Anti-diarrheals such as Lomotil and Imodium A-D will plug you up but don’t cure you—use them only if you can’t be near a bathroom. The malaise you feel from diarrhea typically is from dehydration, not the actual infection, so be sure to drink plenty of fluids—a sports drink such as Gatorade is best. If it’s especially bad, ask at your hotel for the nearest laboratorio (laboratory or clinic), where the staff can analyze a stool sample for around US$5 and tell you if you have a parasitic infection or a virus. If it’s a common infection, the lab technician will tell you what medicine to take. Be aware that medicines for stomach infection are seriously potent, killing not only the bad stuff but the good stuff as well; they’ll cure you but leave you vulnerable to another infection. Avoid alcohol and spicy foods for several days afterward.
A few tips for avoiding stomach problems include:
• Only drink bottled water. Avoid using tap water even for brushing your teeth.
• Avoid raw fruits or vegetables that you haven’t disinfected and cut yourself. Lettuce is particularly dangerous since water is easily trapped in the leaves. Also, as tasty as they look, avoid the bags of sliced fruit sold from street carts.
• Order your meat dishes well done, even if it’s an upscale restaurant. If you’ve been to a market, you’ll see that meat is handled very differently here.
INSECTS
Insects are not of particular concern in the Yucatán, certainly not as they are in other parts of the tropics. Mosquitoes are common, but are not known to carry malaria. Dengue fever, also transmitted by mosquitoes, is present but still rare. Some remote beaches, like Isla Holbox and the Costa Maya, may have sand flies or horseflies, but they have been all but eliminated in the more touristed areas. Certain destinations are more likely to be buggy, like forested archaeological zones and coastal bird-watching areas, and travelers should bring and use insect repellent there, if only for extra comfort.
CRIME
The Yucatán Peninsula is generally quite safe, and few travelers report problems with crime of any kind. Cancún is the one area where particular care should be taken, however. You may find illicit drugs relatively easy to obtain, but bear in mind that drug crimes are prosecuted vigorously in Mexico (especially ones involving foreigners), and your country’s embassy can do very little to help. Sexual assault and rape have been reported by women at nightclubs, sometimes after having been slipped a “date rape” drug. While the clubs are raucous and sexually charged by definition, women should be especially alert to the people around them and wary of accepting drinks from strangers. In all areas, commonsense precautions are always recommended, such as taking a taxi at night instead of walking (especially if you’ve been drinking) and avoiding flashing your money and valuables, or leaving them unattended on the beach or elsewhere. Utilize the safety deposit box in your hotel room, if one is available; if you rent a car, get one with a trunk so your bags will not be visible through the window.
MONEY
Currency and Exchange Rates
Mexico’s official currency is the peso, divided into 100 centavos. It is typically designated with the symbol $, but you may also see MN$ (moneda nacional, or national currency). We’ve listed virtually all prices in their U.S. dollar equivalent, but occasionally use M$ to indicate the price is in Mexican pesos.
U.S. dollars and E.U. euros are accepted in a few highly touristed locations like the Zona Hotelera in Cancún and the shopping districts of Cozumel and Playa del Carmen. However, you’ll want and need pesos everywhere else, as most shopkeepers appreciate visitors paying in the local currency.
At the time of research, US$1 was equal to M$12, slightly less for Canadian dollars, and M$16.25 for euros.
ATMs
Almost every town in the Yucatán Peninsula has an ATM, and they are without question the easiest, fastest, and best way to manage your money. Be aware that you may be charged a transaction fee by the ATM (US$1-3 typically) as well as your home bank (as much as US$5). It’s worth asking your bank if it partners with a Mexican bank, and whether transaction fees are lower if you use that bank’s cash machines.
Travelers Checks
With the spread of ATMs, travelers checks have stopped being convenient for most travel, especially in a country as developed as Mexico. If you do bring them, you will have to exchange them at a bank or a casa de cambio (exchange booth).
Credit Cards
Visa and MasterCard are accepted at all large hotels and many medium and small ones, upscale restaurants, main bus terminals, travel agencies, and many shops throughout Mexico. American Express is accepted much less frequently. Some merchants tack on a 5-10 percent surcharge for any credit card purchase—ask before you pay.
Cash
It’s a good idea to bring a small amount of U.S. cash, on the off chance that your ATM or credit cards suddenly stop working; a US$200 reserve should be more than enough for a two-week visit. Stow it away with your other important documents, to be used only if necessary.
Tax
A 12 percent value-added tax (IVA in Spanish) applies to hotel rates, restaurant and bar tabs, and gift purchases. When checking in or making reservations at a hotel, ask if tax has already been added. In some cases, the tax is 17 percent.
Bargaining
Bargaining is common and expected in street and artisans’ markets, but try not to be too aggressive. Some tourists derive immense and almost irrational pride from haggling over every last cent, and then turn around and spend several times that amount on beer or snacks. The fact is, most bargaining comes down to the difference of a few dollars or even less, and earning those extra dollars is a much bigger deal for most artisans than spending them is to most tourists.
Tipping
While tipping is always a choice, it is a key supplement to many workers’ paychecks. In fact, for some—like baggers at the grocery store—the tip is the only pay they receive. And while dollars and euros are appreciated, pesos are preferred. Note: Foreign coins can’t be changed to pesos, so are useless to workers. Average gratuities in the region include:
A little haggling is okay, but avoid going overboard.
© LIZA PRADO
• Archaeological zone guides: 10-15 percent if you’re satisfied with the service; for informal guides (typically boys who show you around the site), US$1-2 is customary.
• Gas station attendants: around US$0.50 if your windshield has been cleaned, tires have been filled, or the oil and water have been checked; no tip is expected for simply pumping gas.
• Grocery store baggers: US$0.25-0.50.
• Housekeepers: US$1-2 per day; either left daily or as a lump sum at the end of your stay.
• Porters: about US$1 per bag.
• Taxi drivers: Tipping is not customary.
• Tour guides: 10-15 percent; don’t forget the driver—US$1-2 is typical.
• Waiters: 10-15 percent; make sure the gratuity is not already included in the bill.
COMMUNICATIONS AND MEDIA
Postal Service
Mailing letters and postcards from Mexico is neither cheap nor necessarily reliable. Delivery times vary greatly, and letters get “lost” somewhat more than postcards. Letters (under 20 grams) and postcards cost US$1 to the United States and Canada, US$1.20 to Europe and South America, and US$1.35 to the rest of the world. Visit the Correos de México website (www.correosdemexico.com.mx) for pricing on larger packages and other services.
Telephone
Ladatel—Mexico’s national phone company—maintains good public phones all over the peninsula and country. Plastic phone cards with little chips in them are sold at most mini-marts and supermarkets in 30-, 50-, 100-, and 200-peso denominations. Ask for a tarjeta Ladatel—they are the size and stiffness of a credit card, as opposed to the thin cards used for cell phones. Insert the card into the phone, and the amount on the card is displayed on the screen. Rates and dialing instructions (in Spanish and English) are inside the phone cabin. At the time of research, rates were roughly US$0.10 per minute for local calls, US$0.40 per minute for national calls, and US$0.50 per minute for calls to the United States and Canada.
Useful Telephone Numbers
TRAVELER ASSISTANCE
• Emergencies: 060 or 066
• Ángeles Verdes (Green Angels): 078 or 800/903-9200
• Directory Assistance: 044
LONG-DISTANCE DIRECT DIALING
• Domestic long-distance: 01 + area code + number
• International long-distance (United States only): 001 + area code + number
• International long-distance (rest of the world): 00 + country code + area code + number
LONG-DISTANCE COLLECT CALLS
• Domestic long-distance operator: 02
• International long-distance operator (English-speaking): 09
A number of Internet cafés offer inexpensive Web-based phone service, especially in the larger cities where broadband connections are fastest. Rates tend to be significantly lower than those of Ladatel, and you don’t have to worry about your card running out.
Beware of phones offering “free” collect or credit card calls; far from being free, their rates are outrageous.
If you’ve got an unlocked GSM cell phone, you can purchase a local SIM card for around US$15, including US$5 credit, for use during your trip. Calls are expensive, but text messaging is relatively cheap, including to the United States; having two local phones/chips can be especially useful for couples or families traveling together.
To call a local Mexican cellular phone from within Mexico, dial 044 plus the area code and number. If you’re calling a Mexican cellular phone that’s registered out of the area you’re calling from, use the 045 prefix instead. If you’re calling a Mexican mobile phone from outside Mexico, add a 1 between the country code and the area code, and do not use the 044 or 045 prefixes. Be aware that calling a cell phone within Mexico can be very pricey, regardless of where you’re calling from.
Internet Access
Internet cafés can be found in virtually every town in the Yucatán Peninsula. Most charge around US$1 per hour, though prices can be much higher in malls and heavily touristed areas. Most places also will burn digital photos onto a CD or DVD—they typically sell blank discs, but travelers should bring their own USB cable.
Wireless Internet is also becoming popular at all levels of hotels; if you need to stay connected while you’re on the road, and you’re willing to travel with a laptop or tablet, it’s easy—and free—to access the Internet.
Newspapers
The most popular daily newspapers in the Yucatán Peninsula are El Diario de Yucatán, Novedades Quintana Roo, and Tribuna de Campeche. The main national newspapers are also readily available, including Reforma, La Prensa, and La Jornada. For news in English, you’ll find the Miami Herald Cancún Edition in Cancún and occasionally in Playa del Carmen and Isla Cozumel.
MEXICAN LANDLINE TO MEXICAN CELL PHONE:
• Within the same area code: 044 + 3-digit area code + 7-digit phone number
• Different area code: 045 + 3-digit area code + 7-digit phone number
MEXICAN CELL PHONE TO MEXICAN CELL PHONE:
• Within the same area code: 7-digit number only
• Different area code: 3-digit area code + 7-digit number
INTERNATIONAL LANDLINE/CELL PHONE TO A MEXICAN CELL PHONE:
• From U.S. or Canada: 011 + 52 + 1 + 3-digit area code + 7-digit number
• From other countries: international access code + 52 + 1 + 3-digit area code + 7-digit number
Radio and Television
Most large hotels and a number of midsize and small ones have cable or satellite TV, which usually includes CNN (though sometimes in Spanish only), MTV, and other U.S. channels. AM and FM radio options are surprisingly bland—you’re more likely to find a good rock en español station in California than you are in the Yucatán.
MAPS AND TOURIST INFORMATION
Maps
A husband-and-wife team creates outstanding and exhaustively detailed maps of Cancún, Playa del Carmen, Isla Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, and inland archaeological zones, sold at their website www.cancunmap.com. They’re as much guidebooks as maps, with virtually every building and business identified, many with short personal reviews, plus useful information like taxi rates, driving distances, ferry schedules, and more. Maps cost around US$10 and often come with a couple of smaller secondary maps.
Dante produces reasonably reliable maps of the entire Yucatán Peninsula; it also operates a chain of excellent bookstores in Mérida and at various archaeological sites.
Most local tourist offices distribute maps to tourists free of charge, though quality varies considerably. Car rental agencies often have maps, and many hotels create maps for their guests of nearby restaurants and sights.
Tourist Offices
Most cities in the Yucatán have a tourist office, and some have two or more. Some tourist offices are staffed with friendly and knowledgeable people and have a good sense of what tourists are looking for. At others, you’ll seriously wonder how the people there were hired. It is certainly worth stopping in if you have a question—you may well get it answered, but don’t be surprised if you don’t.
Photography and Video
Digital cameras are as ubiquitous in Mexico as they are everywhere else, but memory sticks and other paraphernalia can be prohibitively expensive; bring a spare chip in case your primary one gets lost or damaged. If your chip’s capacity is relatively small, and you’re not bringing your laptop along, pack a couple of blank DVDs and a USB cable to download and burn photos, which you can do at most Internet cafés.
Video is another great way to capture the color and movement of the Yucatán. Be aware that all archaeological sites charge an additional US$3.75 to bring in a video camera; tripods often are prohibited.
Measurements
Mexico uses the metric system, so distances are in kilometers, weights are in kilograms, gasoline is sold by the liter, and temperatures are given in Celsius. See the chart at the back of this book for conversions from the imperial system.
Time Zone
The Yucatán Peninsula is in U.S. Central Standard Time. Daylight Savings Time is recognized April-October.
Electricity
Mexico uses the 60-cycle, 110-volt AC current common in the United States. Bring a surge protector if you plan to plug in a laptop.
