Eating Out
Guatemala
In Guatemala most people only ever eat out at cheap restaurants called comedores, which are the rough equivalent of a North American diner. There will be a daily special or two and a basic menu of four or five standard dishes, usually grilled or fried meat (carne asada o frita) and vegetables (verduras), or a broth (caldo). Eggs (huevos), beans (frijoles), and tortillas are always available and make a useful vegetarian option. Anything with grander pretensions is a restaurant (restaurante), which will offer a more varied selection of food and perhaps a set menu of three courses (menú del día) – these are especially good value at lunchtime and start from around US$2.50. Finally, there is a plethora of street food, from tacos and shucos to pupusas and tostadas . Hygiene standards can be variable, but most of these snacks are fine. The capital’s restaurants are listed first, followed by the regions, in the order in which they appear in the book.
Belize
Many tourists eat at hotels, either out of convenience or because they are included in a package deal. Even so, try to experience some of the smaller Belizean restaurants. Since many of the resorts have a standard international style, this is a good way to meet Belizeans. Restaurants are listed in alphabetical order within each area.
Belize’s national dish is rice and beans; the tropical reef fish, lobster, and conch are luxurious ingredients that are regularly eaten by all Belizeans. Conch should not be eaten during the out-of-season months of July, August, and September, since it will have been illegally caught. Belize offers an exotic range of tropical fruits, especially in the interior. Try a “soursop” milkshake.
Alcohol
All Belizeans are loyal to the national brew – Belikin – with the cheaper domestic version more highly regarded than the export label. Remember that tap water should not be drunk on Caye Caulker or outside main towns in the south.
The Yucatán
Eating out in the Yucatán is a very social activity, to be treasured and enjoyed. There is an amazing variety of places to eat: charming traditional restaurants in bougainvillea-lined gardens, shiny tourist restaurants, beachside tables with fresh seafood, taco stands, and more. Even the smallest village will have at least one simple lonchería (so-named because they serve lonch). Restaurantes generally serve alcohol, and many have bars attached. Cheap loncherías and cocinas económicas (cheap kitchens) normally have only sodas and juices. There’s always a cluster of cocinas económicas in and around markets, which are among the cheapest places to eat. Breakfast (desayuno) is a major meal. Restaurants accordingly open early, around 7am. The main traditional meal, though, is the comida fuerte, starting around 2pm. Whenever there’s time, as on Sundays, it lasts long into the afternoon. After that, dinner (la cena) is a far lighter meal, after 9pm.
Guatemala
Price Categories
Price categories are based on a meal for two, including drinks:
$ = under US$20
$$ = US$20–40
$$$ = over US$40
Guatemala City
Altuna
5 Av 12-31, Zona 1
Tel: 2253 6743
One of the finest restaurants in the Old Town, it is an oasis of civilization in the chaos of Zona 1. Spanish menu, majoring in fish and seafood. $$$
El Gran Pavo
13 Calle 4-41, Zona 1; also at 6 Av 12-72, Zona 10
Tel: 2230 0049
“The Big Turkey” is the place for Mexican food, with an expansive, reasonably priced menu. $$
Hacienda Real
13 Calle 1-10, Zona 10
Tel: 2333 5408
Excellent steaks served with a variety of savory sauces. Lots of lovely warm tortillas. Mariachi bands will accompany you most evenings. $$–$$$
Jake’s
17 Calle 10-40, Zona 10
Tel: 2368 0351
One of the top spots in Guatemala City, with an impressive wine list. Booking recommended. $$–$$$
Kakao
1a Av 13-44, Zona 10
Tel: 2237 4188
A great place for traditional Guatemalan dishes, such as tapado, a seafood soup with coconut milk. $$
Piccadilly
Plaza España
7 Av 12-00, Zona 9
Tel: 2334 7442
(also at corner of 6 Av and 11 Calle, Zona 1; tel: 2253 4522)
Eclectic menu of international dishes, very popular with Guatemalans and overseas visitors. Beer on tap. $
Tamarindos
11 C 2-19 A, Zona 10
Tel: 2360 2815
Compelling Asian fusion cooking; the decor has a strong Japanese influence. Daily specials are highly recommended, and the four-cheese gnocchi and vegetarian Pad Thai are popular choices. $$
Tre Fratelli
2a Ave 13-25, Zona 10
Tel: 2366 2678
Popular Italian chain serving wood-fired pizzas, pasta, salad, and seafood. Generous portions. $$
Antigua
Angie Angie
1 Av Sur 11A
Tel: 7832 3352
So good they named it twice, this fine restaurant has a lovely rear courtyard garden and a little deli at the front. All the cooking is excellent, but as Angie (the owner) is Argentinian, the grilled meats really stand out. $$
Bistrot Cinq
4 Calle Oriente 7
Tel: 7832 5510
Perhaps the best cooking in Antigua, this upscale bistro serves French classics such as steak frites and always has an interesting daily special or two. $$$
Doña Luisa’s
4 Calle Oriente 12
Tel: 7832 2578
An Antiguan institution and popular meeting place, with delicious cakes, snacks, and meals served in a converted colonial mansion and courtyard. The in-house bakery is unbeatable. $$
La Escudilla
4 Av Norte 4
Tel: 7832 1327
Delightful courtyard restaurant, with a very well-priced, eclectic menu. $
Fernando’s Kaffee
7 Av Norte 43
Tel: 5706 2438
Modest-looking place that serves the finest coffee in Antigua, roasted on the premises, plus good vegetarian food and homemade cakes. $
La Fonda de la Calle Real
5 Av Norte 5 (also at 3 Calle Poniente 7 and 5 Av Norte 12)
Tel: 7832 0507
Long-established Guatemalan restaurant with a selection of local specialties: highly flavorsome grilled meats, broths, and sausages. $$
Frida’s
5 Av Norte 29
Tel: 7832 0504
Antigua’s most popular Mexican restaurant, though the decor is pure Americana. Order a margarita at the bar before you dine. $$
El Mesón Panza Verde
5 Av Sur 19
Tel: 7832 1745
Tasteful and atmospheric European-style restaurant, with accomplished cooking and live music some nights. $$$
Rainbow Café & Reading Room
7 Av Sur 8
Tel: 7832 1919
Good, mainly vegetarian menu, best for a casual lunch or an afternoon smoothie or coffee. Live music and poetry readings in the evenings. $
Western Highlands
Chichicastenango
La Fonda del Tzijolaj
7 Calle and 4 Av, Centro Comercial Santo Tomás 30 (north side of market)
Located above the indoor vegetable market. Economical local menu and a fine view of the hubbub below. $
Restaurant La Villa de Los Cofrades
Corner of 6 Calle and 5 Calle
Tel: 7756 1643
Simple but well-executed Guatemalan menu. $$
Huehuetenango
La Fonda de Don Juan
2 Calle 5–35
Tel: 7764 1173
Attractive pizza/pasta parlor, although it is slightly overpriced, and the portions could be more generous. $$
Mi Tierra Café
4 Calle 6–46
Tel: 7764 1473
Popular cafe with friendly service and healthy, interesting food. Always busy at lunchtime. $
El Museo del Café
7 Calle 3–24 (no phone)
This “museum of coffee” not only whips up a mean espresso but also offers tasty Guatemalan grub and great cakes. $
Nebaj
El Descanso
3 Calle
Tel: 5847 4747
Large bar-restaurant that’s the best bet in town for a filling breakfast or grilled meat in the evening. They also serve wine by the glass. $
Panajachel
Chez Alex
Hotel Primavera, Calle Santander
Tel: 7762 0172
Arguably the most elegant place in Pana, with fine European cuisine including lobster and lamb. $$$
Las Chinitas
Calle Santander (no phone)
Stylish Malaysian-owned restaurant with a creative menu full of Chinese, Malay, and Thai curries and stir-fries. $
Deli
Calle Principal
Tel: 7762 2585
Very classy cafe with home-baked cakes, healthy sandwiches, and uplifting classical music. $$
Quezaltenango
Café Baviera
5 Calle 13–14, Zona 1 (no phone)
Good selection of coffees plus great cakes in a traditional wood-paneled dining room/cafe. $
Cardinali’s
14 Av 3–41, Zona 1
Tel: 7761 0924
Recommended for authentic Italian cooking; the pizzas are a treat and the pasta is delicious. $$
Dos Tejanos
Pasaje Enríquez
Tel: 7765 4360
Memorable Tex-Mex food in historic surrounds – try the ribs. $$
Restaurante Bonifaz
4 Calle 10–50, Zona 1 (inside Pensión Bonifaz)
Tel: 7723 1100
Good people-watching venue and a reliable, if not wildly exciting, menu. $$$
San Juan La Laguna
Café el Artesano
Village center
Tel: 4555 4773
A terrific courtyard restaurant where the speciality is cheese and wine. The chef sources wonderful cheeses from across the nation and offers a great wine list (with bottles from the Americas and Europe). $$
San Pedro La Laguna
Pinocchio
On the lakeside between the two jetties (no phone)
Good-value, simple Italian food, great for pizza, pasta, and fish. It’s in an attractive garden. $$
Pacific Coast
Monterrico
There is an assortment of restaurants along Calle Principal, and most of the hotels in Monterrico will serve food.
Hotel Pez de Oro
Tel: 5204 5249
Excellent restaurant serving Italian and international dishes. On the menu are spaghetti alla marinara (spaghetti with seafood) and gamberi al limone (prawns cooked in lemon). $
Johnny’s Place
Tel: 7762 0015
The restaurant/bar is very popular as a backpacker hangout. Ceviche is the specialty here, or there’s inexpensive pasta, burgers, and cold drinks. $$
Taberna El Pelícano
Across from Johnny’s Place
Tel: 4001 5885
Swiss-owned place with an excellent international menu that covers fish, seafood, pasta, risotto, and vegetarian dishes. $$$
Retalhuleu
Lo de Chaz
5a Calle 4–65, Zona 1
Tel: 7771 4649
Situated just off the plaza, serving breakfasts, beer, and snacks. $
Hotel Posada de Don José
5a Calle 3–67, Zona 1
Tel: 7771 0180
Dependable hotel-restaurant. Try pancakes and orange juice for breakfast and roast chicken for dinner. $$
The East
Cobán
Bistro d’Acuña
4 Calle 3–17
Tel: 7951 0482
Extremely civilized bastion of European cooking, with good dishes on the menu, fine coffee, and an amazing dessert cabinet. $$
Lívingston
Bahía Azul
Av de Commercio (Main St)
Tel: 7947 0133
Simple, informal cafe-restaurant, great for breakfast or an inexpensive meal. $
Casa Rosada
Hotel Casa Rosada
Tel: 7947 0303
About 10 minutes’ walk west of the dock. Fine vegetarian cooking, but lobster and filet mignon are also on the menu. Eat overlooking the Lívingston bay. $$
Vecchia Toscana
Barrio Paris beach
Tel: 7947 0884
A hotel restaurant offering fine Italian dining in relaxed surroundings. $$
Puerto Barrios
Rincón Uruguayo
Corner of 7 Av and 16 Calle
Tel: 7948 6803
Excellent South American-style barbecue meat feasts. Eat outside or in an informal interior setting. $$
Safari
Corner of 5 Av and 1 Calle
Tel: 7948 0563
Open-air seafood restaurant overlooking Bahía de Amatique. $$
Río Dulce
Sundog Cafe
Lakeside, by the bridge
Tel: 5760 1844
Excellent if humble-looking cafe-restaurant where the chef-patron bakes his own bread daily and has the best pizza (fresh from a wood-fired oven) in the region. $
Petén
El Remate
Mon Ami
Lakeside, 1km (0.6 miles) west of junction
Tel: 7928 8413
A great French-owned place where the jovial owner takes good care of his customers. Try the delicious shrimps with garlic and butter or just a crêpe. The set lunch is a steal. $$
Flores
Café Arqueológico Yaxha
Calle 15 de Septiembre
Tel: 5830 2060
Unusual place serving a variety of pre-Hispanic dishes, including spicy chicken with yucca. There are plenty of books and maps on the Mayan culture to look through and the owner is a real authority on the Maya. $$
El Café Chilero (Cool Beans Café)
Calle 15 de Septiembre
Tel: 5571 9240
Find lots of fresh coffee, smoothies, sandwiches, and nachos. Has a peaceful, relaxing garden with hammocks. $
La Luna
Corner of Calle 30 de Junio and Calle 10 de Noviembre
Tel: 7926 3346
Elegant place in a historic wooden building, with an eclectic menu that includes pasta and fish in its French and Italian classics. Very popular in the high season, so book ahead. $$
Las Puertas
Corner Calle Central and Av Santa Ana
Tel: 7867 5242
Lively cafe-bar that also serves breakfast. Lots of spaghetti and salads. Live music most evenings. $$
El Tucán
On the lakeside, by the causeway
Tel: 7926 0536
An extensive, mainly Mexican menu of salads and fish dishes that come in huge portions. $
Santa Elena
Restaurante Mijaro
4a Calle Principal
Tel: 7926 1615
On the main street with a little garden area. Menu includes meat and fish dishes, pasta and burgers. $
Belize
Price Categories
Price categories are based on a meal for one, not including drinks:
$ = under US$10
$$ = US$10–25
$$$ = over US$25
Belize City
Big Daddy’s Diner
2nd Floor, Commercial Center, Market Square
Tel: 227 0932
Cafeteria offering standard rice and beans and other specialties. Great view of the harbor and bridge from the upper deck. Serves Belizean breakfast of fry jacks and eggs, and is very popular with lunchtime workers, so get there after the rush. $
Chateau Caribbean
6 Marine Parade
Tel: 223 0800
Waterfront location with a colonial atmosphere, offering a Chinese and Caribbean menu. $$
Harbour View
14 Fort Street, near the Tourism Village
Tel: 223 6420
Waterfront restaurant serving East Asian and Belizean cuisine, especially good for fresh seafood. Has air con and tables on an outdoor deck. $$
Jambel’s Jerk Pit
2B King Street
Tel: 227 6080
Restaurant serving the same spicy blend of Jamaican and Belizean dishes – such as jerk chicken and jerk lobster – as the long-established Jambel Jerk Pit in San Pedro. Here you can dine either indoors or on a shady patio adorned with palms. Good daily special. $
Macy’s
18 Bishop Street
Tel: 207 3419
A lunchtime favorite with business people, the Creole food served is cheap and plentiful. Try the fish balls if they are available. $$
Wet Lizard
1 Fort Street
Tel: 223 5973
Brightly painted and on a deck overlooking the Swing Bridge and Belize City’s harbor. Start with coconut shrimp or conch fritters, then progress to wraps, fajitas, or quesadillas. Variety of cocktails and beers. $$
Northern Districts
Corozal
You’ll probably find that the best meals to be had in Corozal are in the hotels, but below are a couple of suggestions.
Cactus Plaza
6 6th Street South
Tel: 422 0394
Popular restaurant serving simple Mexican dishes: tacos, tostados, rice and beans. At weekends it turns into a nightclub (sometimes noisy). $
Patty’s Bistro
13 4th Av, three blocks north of the park
Tel: 402 0174
Belizean, Mexican, and American dishes. Try Patty’s special burrito, coconut curried shrimp, and the conch soup. Look out for “Specials of the Day” outside on the chalkboard. The walls are covered in comments written by previous customers. $
Orange Walk
You will find an abundance of Chinese restaurants here, but the following is also worth mentioning:
El Establo Bar & Grill
Indian Hill, Northern Highway
Tel: 322 0094
Popular restaurant serving simple Mexican and Belizean dishes. $
The South
Belmopan and Cayo
Bull Frog Inn
25 Half Moon Ave, Belmopan
Tel: 822 2111
The best restaurant in Belmopan, it serves local and international cuisine. $$$
Hannah’s
5 Burns Avenue, San Ignacio
Tel: 824 3014
Small, very popular restaurant serving tasty, inexpensive meals. Everything from breakfast to authentic Maya dishes are on the menu, with all mains accompanied by large, fresh salads. $
The Running W Steakhouse Restaurant
San Ignacio Resort Hotel, 18 Buena Vista Street
Tel: 824 2034
Specializing in steaks from the resort’s own ranch, but also serves a range of dishes, many with a Lebanese flavor, excellent seafood, and vegetarian meals. All are delicious and good value, served on a terrace overlooking the pool. $$
Dangriga
Family Restaurant
Commerce St (no phone)
Genuine Chinese food served up on a beach in Belize that’s highly popular with locals and tourists. $$
Placencia
De Tatch Café
North of the centre
Tel: 503 3385
Inexpensive Belizean and Caribbean meals served on a wooden deck on the beach, under a thatched roof – “De Tatch.” Does great breakfasts and has internet access. $
The Galley
Next to the playing fields
Tel: 523 3133
Serves some of the best fish in the village. Try the conch fritters. $$
Pickled Parrot Bar & Grill
Pickled Parrot Cabañas
Tel: 605 4451
Popular, friendly place with excellent seafood and pasta. Has a daily happy hour with fabulous tropical blended drinks. Closed Sunday. $$
Rumfish
On the main drag, towards the southern end
Tel: 523 3293
This is as close as you can get to gourmet dining in town, with excellent, very creative Western and Creole dishes and a decent wine list. $$$
Trattoria Placencia
On the beach near the center
Tel: 623 3394
Italian specialties including handmade pasta are accompanied by a very nice salad and good wines, served in a small, relaxing restaurant. Open Mon–Sat for dinner from 5pm. $
Punta Gorda
Earth Runnins
13 Main Middle St
Tel: 702 2093
Putting a very accomplished and ambitious spin on Belizean and Carib dishes, this excellent place has lots of seafood and veggie options. Live Garífuna music most nights. $$
Grace’s Restaurant
19 Main Street
Tel: 702 2414
Popular, clean restaurant serving inexpensive Belizean food. Conveniently located in the center of town; you can change money here and the buses stop right outside. $
The Cayes
Caye Caulker
Amor y Café
Front Street
Tel: 601 4458
The best place in the island for breakfast, this cafe serves up fine pancakes, homemade yoghurt, brilliant juices, and aromatic coffee. $
Coco Plum Garden
Middle Street (before the airstrip)
Tel: 226 0226
Wonderful cafe and deli in a lush, shady garden. Well worth the walk to get here. Menu includes pizza, sandwiches, and cakes. Also serves breakfast. $
Happy Lobster
Front Street
Tel: 226 0064
Popular and good-value, family-run restaurant serving inexpensive, well-presented seafood, pasta, and rice and beans. $
Jolly Roger
On the main street, south of the center
Tel: 603 1976
The best seafood barbecue on the island. Serves tasty fish and lobster cooked over hot coals. $
Rasta Pasta
Front street, north of the center
Tel: 206 0356
Fantastic pasta and seafood cooked with home-blended herbs and spices, served at tables on the sand. $
Trattoria Don Corleone
Front Street
Tel: 226 0025
Quality Italian dining, with traditional pasta and salads and a good wine list. $$
San Pedro
Nearly all the hotels listed in the Accommodations section have their own restaurants. Any stroll along the beachfront or sandy streets of San Pedro takes you past an endless string of blackboards advertising the daily dining specials. New places open (and close) every week, mostly quite decent, but the following are known successes.
Blue Water Grill
Barrier Reef Drive, at the Sunbreeze Hotel
Tel: 226 3347
Ever-busy decked restaurant with ocean aspect and an eclectic menu: seafood, pizza, and Asian dishes. Extensive wine list. $$
Celi’s Restaurant
In the Holiday Hotel, on the seafront
Tel: 226 2014
Fun beach barbecues and tasty snacks served on a wooden deck. The Wednesday night barbecue is legendary. $
Dande’s Frozen Custard
Pescador Drive (no phone)
Every beach town should have a place like this. “Frozen custard” actually means ice cream, which is thicker and creamier here than anywhere else on the cayes. Try the papaya or coconut flavors. $
Jambel Jerk Pit
Barrier Reef Drive
Tel: 226 3515
Jambel tastily blends Jamaican and Belizean dishes such as jerk chicken and pork, rice and beans, and fish and chips at good prices. Live reggae music on Wednesdays. $
The Yucatán
Price Categories
Price categories are based on a meal for one, not including drinks:
$ = under US$15
$$ = US$15–25
$$$ = over US$25
Mérida
Alberto’s Continental
Calle 64, 482, corner of Calle 57
Tel: 999 928 5367
An old house full of eccentric antiques, serving delicious Yucatecan and Lebanese food, plus great liqueur ice creams. $$$
Amaro
Calle 59, between calles 60 and 62
Tel: 999 928 2451
Occupies a very pretty, romantic patio, and serves many vegetarian options as well as classic Yucatecan dishes. $
La Bella Epoca
Calle 60, 497, Hotel del Parque
Tel: 999 928 1928
A rather ornately decorated restaurant serving Yucatecan and European food, and looking out over Parque Hidalgo and Calle 60. $$
Cafetería El Mesón
Calle 59, 500, by Calle 60
Tel: 999 924 9022
The outdoor cafe of the Hotel Caribe, on Parque Hidalgo, is an ideal spot for people-watching. $
La Casa de Frida
Calle 61, 526A, between calles 66 and 66A
Tel: 999 928 2311
Very pretty restaurant with a patio decorated in the rich colors typical of painter Frida Kahlo, and with delicious dishes from around Mexico. $$
La Casona
Calle 60, 434, between calles 47 and 49
Tel: 999 923 8348
Italian restaurant in a lovely patio-garden, with authentic cuisine and imported and Mexican wines. $$
Hacienda Teya
Carretera Mérida–Cancún (Highway 180) Km 12.5
Tel: 999 988 0800
A short trip outside town takes you to this 17th-century hacienda, where excellent classic Yucatecan dishes such as pollo pibil (chicken marinated in citrus and achiote spices) are served on a terrace beside a lovely garden. $$$
Pancho’s
Calle 59, between calles 60 and 62
Tel: 999 942 0202
Lively patio bar with a Mexican Revolution-theme decor, enjoyable food, and music. $$
Pórtico del Peregrino
Calle 57, 501
Tel: 999 928 6163
International and Mexican cuisine served on a romantic patio, alongside a decent wine selection. $$
La Prosperidad
Calle 53, 491, corner of Calle 56
Tel: 999 924 1407
A traditional cantina-style bar-restaurant, so you normally only pay for drinks, not the delicious and substantial botanas (snacks). A fabulous bargain. $
Northern Yucatán
Celestún
La Palapa
Calle 12, on the seafront
Tel: 998 916 2063
Large restaurant serving good seafood with a prime location on Celestún beach. Tables are set beneath a giant palm palapa. $$
Around Chichén Itzá
The Hotel Dolores Alba (Highway 180, Km 122, 4km/2.5 miles east of the ruins) and the larger hotels near the ruins have restaurants open to all; those at the Villas Arqueológicas and Hacienda Chichén are especially attractive. Otherwise, there are plenty of places to eat along the Highway (called Calle 15 in the town) in the neighbouring town of Pisté, such as:
Las Mestizas
Calle 15 (Highway 180), Pisté
No phone
Las Mestizas has expanded over the years, but maintains its Yucatecan small-town charm. Classic local dishes – salbutes (stuffed tortillas), lomitos de Valladolid (chops cooked Valladolid-style), sopa de lima (lime and chicken soup) – are done well, and the terrace is a fine place to wind down after exploring Chichén. $$
Izamal
Kinich Kakmo
Calle 27, 299
Tel: 988 954 0489
Classic Yucatecan restaurant serving all the local specialties in a lovely garden, next to Izamal’s largest pyramid. $$
Restaurante El Toro
Calle 33, 303
Tel: 988 954 1169
Try a limited but enjoyable menu of tacos, salbutes (stuffed tortillas), and other snacks whilst seated at red tablecloths (in homage to the restaurant’s name, which is Spanish for “bull”). $
Progreso
Le Saint Bonnet
Calle 19 (Malecón), 150, by Calle 78
Tel: 969 935 2299
Charming terrace situated on Progreso’s waterfront facing the beach, with delicious, imaginative local seafood specialties, from shrimp ceviches to giant feasts. Live music on afternoons and weekend nights. $–$$
Valladolid
Hostería del Marqués
In the Hotel Mesón del Marqués, Calle 39, 203, on the main plaza
Tel: 985 856 2073
Lovely hotel restaurant on a colonial patio serving authentic Yucatecan cuisine and local Valladolid specialties. $$
Squimz
Calle 39 and Calle 44
Tel: 985 856 4156
Stylish bistro-cum-café with an interesting menu that features traditional dishes with a modern spin. The decor features imposing artwork and hip lighting, and the setting is a colonial house. $$
The Caribbean Coast
Akumal
La Cueva del Pescador
Akumal village
Tel: 984 875 9205
Romantic, sand-floored restaurant with great fish and seafood. $$
Turtle Bay Bakery
Near the main square, Akumal village
Popular breakfast spot, with freshly baked pastries. $
Cancún
All the various malls along the Hotel Zone Strip contain food courts with the familiar, internationally known fast-food counters.
Captain’s Cove
Blvd Kukulcán Km 16.5
Tel: 998 885 0016
Palapa-covered terrace looking out over the water, with bargain breakfasts. $$
La Casa de las Margaritas
La Isla Shopping Village, Blvd Kukulcán Km 12.5
Tel: 998 883 3222
Slightly over the top but fun Mexican restaurant in Cancún’s most stylish mall, with mariachis and other traditional music. $$$
Casa Maguey
Kukulcán Plaza,
Blvd Kukulcán Km 13
Tel: 998 887 8224
Classic Mexican cuisine. Open all day, and a nightly mariachi show accompanies dinner. $$
Casa Rolandi
Plaza Caracol, Blvd Kukulcán Km 8.5
Tel: 998 883 2557
Popular Italian place with pasta, seafood, and pizzas cooked in a proper wood-fired oven. $$
La Destilería
Blvd Kukulcán Km 12.5
Tel: 998 885 1086
Serves refined Mexican cuisine, and is the owner of Cancún’s best tequila selection. $$$
La Habichuela
Calle Margaritas 25, downtown
Tel: 998 884 3158
High-quality Yucatecan cuisine served in a garden that’s a peaceful oasis in downtown Cancún. $$–$$$
Lorenzillo’s
Blvd Kukulcán Km 10.5
Tel: 998 883 1254
Serves seafood, lobster, and prime beef beside the lagoon, under the largest palapa roof in the area. $$$
Matilda
Plaza Las Américas, Av Tulum, downtown
Tel: 998 884 9174
An off-the-beaten-track French bistro with fresh bread, pastries, and Roquefort-and-apple pizza. $$
Mikado
Marriott Casa Magna hotel, Blvd Kukulcán Km 15
Tel: 998 881 2000
Japanese and Thai food in chic surroundings, with a very relaxing patio. $$$
The Plantation House
Blvd Kukulcán Km 10.5
Tel: 998 883 1455
New Orleans-style mansion looking out over the water, with piano music and Cajun-Caribbean cooking. $$$
Sanborns
Av Uxmal, corner of Av Tulum
Tel: 998 884 0002
Classic Mexican standby, open 24 hours, and serves just about everything: the Sopa Especial is the best recipe for upset stomachs. $$
Ty-Coz
Av Tulum
Tel: 998 884 6060
Ideal stop for a crusty, freshly baked French baguette, stuffed with the filling of your choice. Also offers delicious croissants and coffee. Closed Sun. $
Chetumal
Las Arracheras de Don José
Boulevard de la Bahía, corner of Av O.P. Bianco
Tel: 983 832 8895
Tacos de arracheras (tenderized beef tacos) are specialties here, but pizza and a variety of other dishes available. Great view over the bay. $
Sergio’s
Corner of Av Obregón and Calle 5 de Mayo
Tel: 983 832 0882
This is Chetumal’s best, a comfortable place with welcome air conditioning and enjoyable local food, including excellent breakfasts. $$
Cozumel
Casa Denis
Calle 1a Sur, 132, off the main plaza
Tel: 987 872 0067
Cozumel’s oldest restaurant, and still family-owned, with some good Yucatecan specials. $
La Choza
Calle Adolfo Rosado Salas 198, at Av 10
Tel: 987 872 0958
Yucatecan food in a palapa-roofed restaurant. Their lunchtime set meal is great value. $$
Cocos Cozumel
Av 5, 180, just off the main plaza
Tel: 987 872 0241
Very friendly, and a fine place for Mexican or American breakfasts. $
Los Dorados de Villa
Calle 1a Sur, 72, on the main square
Tel: 987 872 0196
Ideal for people-watching on the plaza, with a menu of classic Mexican fare. $$
Guidos
Av Rafael E. Melgar, 23, between calles 6 and 8
Tel: 987 872 0946
Fresh, well-prepared Italian cuisine served in a charming setting. $$
Kinta
Av 5 and 2 Calle
Tel: 987 869 0544
Interesting, modern Mexican food, some of it perhaps a little over-complicated, but the garden setting is great and it’s good value. $$
Mesa 17
Calle 17, corner of Av 25
Tel: 987 878 4928
Mexican and international cuisine prepared by an American chef. $$$
Isla Holbox
Buena Vista
Calle Juárez
No phone
A no-frills seafood restaurant that offers simply prepared fried fish and shrimp, at moderate prices. $$
Los Pelones
West side of the main plaza
Tel: 998 212 4850
Authentic, enjoyable Italian food including delicious homemade pasta. $$
Isla Mujeres
Some of the best Isla restaurants are in hotels, notably the Zazil-Ha (which serves Maya, Mexican, Caribbean, and wholefood) in the Hotel Na-Balam on Calle Zazil-Ha.
Casa O’s
Carretera Garrafón
Tel: 998 888 0170
A delightful waterfront restaurant near the south of the island. Seafood, especially spiny lobster, is a specialty, but there is also plenty of choice for meat-eaters and vegetarians. $$–$$$
French Bistro Français
Av Matamoros, between Av Juárez and Rueda Medina
No phone
Authentic French cuisine served in a big, beachcomber-style wooden house. Great breakfasts. $–$$
Mahahual
Ki Taco’o
Calle Cherna and Guachinango
Relaxed place that offers mighty fine fish and shrimp tacos and other good seafood dishes, including crab. $–$$
Travel In’
Beach road Km 5.8
Tel: 983 110 9496
This popular hangout has local and international dishes including oven-baked fish fillet as well as a kids’ menu. $
Playa del Carmen
Blue Lobster
Calle 12 and Av 5
Tel: 984 873 1360
Attractive American-style steak and lobster house. $$$
La Casa del Agua
Av 5, by Calle 2
Tel: 984 803 0232
An elegant dining space in the shade of a giant palm palapa above the bustle of Av 5, with an original Mexican and international menu. $$–$$$
Casa Mediterránea
Av 5, between calles 6 and 8
Tel: 984 876 3926
Tranquil, cozy Italian restaurant with fresh pasta and seafood, and menu specials inspired by northern Italian recipes. $$
El Chiringuito
Calle 10, between Av 5 and 10
Tel: 984 844 3078
Playa’s only Spanish restaurant, with tapas, paella, and flamenco dancers a few nights each week. $$
Coctelería Las Brisas
Calle 4 Norte, between Av 5 and 10
No phone
Unfussy local terrace restaurant with great seafood at budget prices. $
The Glass Bar
Calle 10, between Av 1 and 5
Tel: 984 803 1676
Trendy, upscale bar and restaurant with an imaginative, modern Italian menu. Dine inside in air-conditioned comfort or outside on the terrace. $$$
La Parrilla
Av 5, corner of Calle 8
Tel: 984 873 0687
Traditional Mexican flame-grilled meats, including delicious tacos and fajitas. $–$$
Rosy
Calle 4, between Av 10 and 15
Stop by here for good coffee, drinks, snacks, and an internet cafe. $
Yaxche
Calle 8, between Av 5 and 10
Tel: 984 873 2502
Charming restaurant that has some of the best Yucatecan cuisine in the region, with inventive recipes based on traditional ingredients such as cochinita pipil (roast suckling pig). $$–$$$
Tulum
Cetli
Polar and Orion
Tel: 984 108 0681
For a real gastronomic experience, this restaurant is Tulum’s best bet as the chef has created a fine menu of inventive, often quirky Mexican dishes like prawns with black corn – all of which deliver – as does the wine list and atmosphere. $$$
Don Cafeto
Av Tulum 64, between calles Orion and Centauro
Tel: 984 871 2207
A Tulum fixture, this big open terrace on the Pueblo’s main street has satisfying breakfasts and classic Yucatecan and Mexican fare. $–$$
Ph at Mezzanine
Beach Road, Km 1.5
Tel: 998 131 1596
Tulum’s trendiest boutique hotel naturally has its most chic restaurant in a stylish terrace and enticingly comfortable dining room, with oriental fittings to match the global, Thai-oriented cuisine. The lounge bar here is the hippest on the coast. $$$
¡Qué Fresco!
Zamas cabañas, Beach Road, Km 4
No phone
A great outlook is one of the charms of this palapa-shaded terrace, on a crag above the sea. Lively fish dishes, such as grouper (mero) in garlic and lime. One of Tulum’s best beachside restaurants. Cash only. $$
La Zebra
Beach Road, Km 8.5
Tel: 998 115 4276
This cabaña hotel has a lot of style, and its “beach cantina” is run with verve, with fresh seafood grills, ceviches, and other food ideal for the beach. Excellent margaritas too. $$
Xcalak
Leaky Palapa
Beach Road, Km 8.5
Tel: 998 115 4276
A Xcalak institution, this fine “beach cantina” works brilliantly on every level: it’s great for a glass of wine or coffee, a snack, or a full-blown gourmet experience with dishes like chili-crusted scallops on mango coulis, ceviche, and snapper fillet with a mandarin habanero glaze. $$–$$$
Campeche and Chiapas
Campeche
Cactus Steak House
Av Ruiz Cortines, at the Malecón
Tel: 981 811 1453
Big restaurant near the waterfront with American-style steaks and fajitas, amongst other options. $$
Casa Vieja
Calle 10, 319
Tel: 981 811 8016
A restaurant with a wonderful location overlooking Campeche’s central plaza, plus charming service and enjoyable local fish and other dishes. $$
Chac-Pel
Av Lázaro Cardenas 8, Valle del Sol
Tel: 981 813 1071
Out of the way south of the Old City (take a taxi), this buzzy restaurant is an unassuming showcase for Campeche cuisine. The daily fish specials are fabulous, and huge. In line with tradition it’s only open for long lunches (until 7pm), but plan to give it a whole afternoon. $$$
La Parroquia
Calle 55, between calles 10 and 12
Tel: 981 816 2530
Whirring roof fans set the tone at this Campeche institution. Open all hours, it just seems to invite people to come and go. Perfect for breakfast, it has some good campechano dishes and Mexican standards for later in the day. $
La Pigua
Av Miguel Alemán 179A
Tel: 981 811 3365
A showcase for Campeche’s distinctive cuisine, with many interesting dishes combining fish and seafood with tropical fruit and vegetables. $$$
Chiapas
Restaurant Maya Cañada
Calle Merle Green , Palenque Town
Tel: 916 345 0042
Relaxing restaurant on a big terrace serving tasty Mexican seafood, fish, and meat dishes. $$
Sr Molino
Av Juárez 120C, Palenque Town
No phone
Nothing fancy, but this big restaurant in a palapa-shaded first-floor terrace above the traffic of Palenque’s main drag is a fun place to enjoy punchy tacos and other Mexican favorites. $
La Casa del Pan
Calle Dr Navarro 10 and Calle Real de Guadalupe 55, San Cristóbal de las Casas
Tel: 967 678 5895
Renowned vegetarian restaurant, now with two locations in San Cristóbal, both with a mellow feel and interesting dishes based on traditional local cooking and organic ingredients. $–$$
Mayambé
Calle Real de Guadalupe 66, San Cristóbal de las Casas
Tel: 967 674 6278
Attractive restaurant in a covered courtyard, with authentic Indian and Southeast Asian cuisine. $