Transportation
Getting There
Guatemala
By Air from the US and Canada
Most flights to Guatemala are routed through a few US hub cities: Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas, Fort Lauderdale, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, and Newark. You’ll also find several non-direct options via San Salvador (with TACA) and Mexico City (Aeroméxico and Interjet). Flying from Canada, you’ll have to travel via one of the US gateway cities. All international flights land at La Aurora International Airport (tel: 502-2332 6084) 4 miles (6km) south of Guatemala City, except for a few regional flights from Belize and Cancún which land at Mundo Maya Airport in Flores (near Tikal).
By Air from Europe
The only direct air itinerary linking Europe to Guatemala is from Madrid, flying with Spanish airline Iberia. Travelers from the UK and Ireland can also choose to fly via one of the US gateway cities, via Panama or via Cuba. Another option is to fly to Mexico, where connections to Guatemala are available with local airlines.
By Road
Bus is the most common way to enter Guatemala. Several bus services run from Mexico, Honduras, Belize, and El Salvador into Guatemala with the San Salvador–Guatemala City connection among the most frequent. There is also a route linking San José (in Costa Rica) with Guatemala City, which involves an overnight stopover.
Belize
By Air from the US and Canada
There are many flights from the US to Belize, but none from Canada. All international flights into Belize land at the Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport, which is located 10 miles (16km) northwest of Belize City on the Northern Highway. American Airlines operates direct flights from Dallas/Fort Worth and Miami, Delta Airlines from Atlanta, and United Airlines from Houston. US Airways operate seasonal flights from Newark.
By Air from Europe
To fly to Belize from the UK or Europe you change planes at one of the US gateways. This can be very inconvenient, as most flight times do not match up and can result in long stopovers in the States. An alternative option is to fly directly to Cancún and take a bus or drive from there into Belize. Unfortunately there are no direct flights from Mexico to Belize.
By Road
Several companies run regular buses from Chetumal in Mexico to Orange Walk and Belize City; the best are run by ADO, whose website is in Spanish only (www.ado.com.mx/ado/index.jsp). If you want to bring your own car into Belize you may incur significant customs charges, so it is worth checking before traveling.
Flight Information
Aeromexico: www.aeromexico.com
Aeromexico Connect: www.amconnect.com
American Airlines: www.aa.com
British Airways: www.britishairways.com
Delta: www.delta.com
Iberia: www.iberia.com
Interjet: www.interjet.com.mx
Spirit: www.spirit.com
United Airlines: www.united.com
US Airways: www.usairways.com
The Yucatán
By Air from the US and Canada
Frequent flights, scheduled and charter, run to Cancún from every part of the US and Canada. There are also scheduled flights to Mérida from Miami and Houston, and to Cozumel from Atlanta, Dallas, Charlotte, Houston, Newark, and Toronto. Both airports also have additional charter and seasonal services.
By Air from Europe
Direct flights to Cancún from Europe are provided by Iberia from Madrid, British Airways from London, and Air Berlin from Düsseldorf, but there are also many charter flights. The most common way to get there by scheduled flight is via a change in the US, usually in Miami or Houston.
By Road
The distance from the nearest main US border crossing (Brownsville, Texas) to Cancún is about 1,850km (1,150 miles). This amounts to about 30 hours’ driving, but most people take at least four days. To bring a US- or Canadian-registered car into Mexico beyond the border area you must obtain a temporary import permit (around US$15) and a Mexican insurance policy, as US and Canadian policies are not valid in Mexico. The AAA offices and insurance services such as www.mexinsure.com advise on current procedures.
Getting Around
Guatemala
Though Guatemala is a small country, the mountainous terrain and ancient buses mean that travel can be time-consuming and uncomfortable. Stick to the main highways and things move reasonably well, but many of the minor routes are unpaved, and the going can be tediously slow. Thankfully, the scenery is usually spectacular.
From the Airport
A public bus service departs from outside Aurora International Airport heading for Guatemala City’s historic centre, Zona 1, although this method is not recommended; the easiest, and far safer, way of getting to and from the airport is by taxi. Inside the Arrivals hall, a taxi desk enables you to prepay for your journey (expect to pay around US$12 to travel into Zona 1). Note that practically all of the city’s top-end hotels and a few of the guesthouses will lay on a free pickup service if you book ahead.
Travelers to Antigua can catch one of the shuttle buses (US$12) leaving at fairly regular intervals. Alternatively, a taxi will set you back around US$30.
By Air
The only scheduled internal flight currently in operation is the 50-minute Guatemala City–Flores flight (to visit Tikal) which saves an 8–10-hour trip by road – although you can expect to pay a fairly steep US$210–240 for a return ticket. TACA and TAG both offer flights, but you’ll probably get a better deal by booking your ticket via a travel agent, rather than the airline. Try to make reservations well in advance for all flights.
Domestic Airlines
TACA
Tel: 2470 8222
TAG
Tel: 2332 1897
By Bus
The regular Guatemalan bus, called a camioneta, is an old North American school bus. It’s three to a seat, and as many as possible standing in the aisle. Progress is always pretty slow, but never dull, as ranchero and merengue music blares from tinny speakers, children wail, and chickens cluck. Travelling on a “chicken” bus is one of the quintessential Guatemalan experiences; just make sure you get a more comfortable bus for long journeys. A camioneta will stop just about anywhere, and, as the joke goes, a “chicken” bus can never be full. Expect to pay about Q8 an hour.
There are also first-class buses (pullmanes) that connect the major towns along the main highways and into Mexico and the other Central American countries. They are a little quicker, don’t stop so frequently, and you’ll have a seat reservation. Expect to pay Q10–12 an hour.
Shuttle buses, usually modern Japanese minibuses, provide a useful, fast, and comfortable alternative. They mainly cover the prime tourist destinations, such as Antigua–Chichicastenango–Panajachel, but are increasingly common throughout the country. If your destination does not happen to be on a regular route, it is even possible to organise a custom-made, especial service – although this comes at a higher cost. Expect to pay about US$5 per hour.
Another method of transport now common in Guatemala is non-tourist minibuses (microbuses) which have replaced the old chicken buses on many paved-road routes. Expect to pay about Q8 an hour.
By Boat
Boats connect the villages around Lago de Atitlán, Puerto Barrios, and Lívingston, and Lívingston and Río Dulce town. These routes all have daily services, and it’s not possible or necessary to book in advance.
By Car
Driving in Guatemala can be a hair-raising experience due to a combination of local practices – such as overtaking on blind corners – and the rough, unpaved condition of many roads bar the main ones. Traffic congestion is high in the capital, and the Interamericana and the highway to Puerto Barrios tend to be busy. Security is also an issue you will need to bear in mind: always choose a guarded car park in which to leave your vehicle. However, driving in Guatemala will undoubtedly open up the country to you.
Renting a car here costs US$35–70 a day. Many companies will ask you to sign a clause accepting your responsibility for the first US$1,000 of expenses in the event of an accident, theft, or damage – so ensure you take out full-cover insurance.
By Train
There are currently no passenger train services at all in Guatemala.
Belize
The main roads in Belize are paved, and there are frequent, cheap buses to most destinations. There is also an excellent network of internal flights – the quickest, but certainly not the greenest, way to get around. Boat transfers to the cayes are easy to come by and relatively cheap.
From the Airport
At Phillip Goldson International Airport immigration can be entertaining or infuriating, depending on your attitude. There is a currency-exchange window near the exit (if this is closed, you can get by on US dollars without a problem), as well as an ATM machine and a tourist information booth.
Most tour operators put visitors straight on to connecting flights or provide a minibus service to out-of-town hotels or jungle lodges.
There is a taxi rank outside the airport. Rates into Belize City are fixed and are fairly hefty for the 20-minute ride (B$50/US$25). Rates to other parts of Belize can be negotiated (confirm the price before you get in).
By Air
Small propeller plane services cover most of Belize. This is by far the most convenient way to get around. Most of the flights run on time and few take longer than half an hour. The most popular destinations are from the International Airport to San Pedro on Ambergris Caye (which takes 20 minutes, and gives you spectacular views of the coral reef), and to Placencia and Dangriga, both in the south. If leaving from Belize City, make sure you know whether the flight you are taking will be departing from the International Airport, or the smaller but more commonly used (and cheaper) Municipal Airport in the northern suburbs of Belize City.
National Operators
Maya Island Air
Tel: 223 1140
Tropic Air
Tel: 226 2012
By Boat
The alternative to flying to Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye is to take a boat service from Belize City’s Marine Terminal next to the Swing Bridge, or from Courthouse Wharf on the other side of the creek. Some services will stop off at St George’s Caye on request. Transport to and from other cayes by boat is mostly arranged by hotels. Alternatively, you can book your own boat at the docks.
By Bus
Buses run at least hourly between Belize City and the major towns to the north and the west, and hourly to Punta Gorda in the south. Most are the non-air-conditioned US school bus variety. The main bus station in Belize City is just west of the center, and is used by all companies serving all the towns and main roads in Belize; smaller bus lines serving some villages depart from nearby streets. Most buses will stop whenever requested, but Express buses, which cost a little more, only stop in the main towns.
By Car
One way to start your trip is to pick up a rental car (or preferably 4x4) from the airport. Your own transport comes in very handy in the interior of Belize. Lodges tend to be in isolated areas, and having your own transportation allows you to come and go as you please; you are free to visit wildlife reserves and archeological sites at your own pace, and make trips into town whenever you wish.
Driving is on the right-hand side of the road. Speeds and distances are measured in miles, and although signposting is rare, surprisingly you don’t get lost.
Renting a car in Belize is expensive and a large damage deposit, taken by credit card, is required; insurance is about US$15 a day. The other drawback is the bad condition of some roads. Both the companies below have offices at the International Airport and in Belize City.
Budget
2.5 Miles Northern Highway, Belize City, tel: 223 2435; www.budget-belize.com
Crystal Auto Rental
5 Miles Northern Highway, Belize City, tel: 223 1600, toll-free in Belize: 0800-777 7777; www.crystal-belize.com
This is the largest rental fleet in Belize, excellent value, and the only company which allows you to take its vehicles to Tikal.
By Taxi
Downtown Belize is small enough to handle on foot, and during the cool of the day this is the best way to get around. At night, you should travel by private car or taxi, even for short distances; expect to pay US$3.50–5 for a ride. Hotels and restaurants are used to calling for taxis, which arrive almost immediately; always remember to confirm the price with the driver before setting off.
Transfers between hotels are often pre-arranged for tourists by their tour operator. It is also possible to hire taxis to travel between towns or to explore the countryside.
The Yucatán
The Yucatán is easy to get to and to get around. There are abundant international flights into Cancún, and to some other airports. Unless you have a car, buses provide the main means of getting around, but Mexico’s domestic flight network can be useful for making short hops quickly. Aeroméxico Connect and Interjet are the main domestic airlines.
From the Airports
Cancún Airport (www.cancun-airport.com) is 15km (9 miles) south of the city and has two main terminals. Most US and European airlines use Terminal 3; most Mexican airlines, Air Canada, and some others use Terminal 2. A free shuttle bus runs between them. ADO airport buses run every 30 minutes from Terminal 2 to the bus station in downtown Cancún, and once or twice an hour to Playa del Carmen. The fare to Cancún is about US$3. Alternatively, you can take a colectivo minibus from either terminal direct to the beach hotels in Cancún for about US$15 per person. Taxis cost a rip-off US$60 to the Cancún hotel zone.
At Mérida Airport, buses to the center (US$1.75) leave from across the car park, running about every 45 minutes until 7pm. Taxis charge about US$14. At Cozumel Airport there’s no bus service, so use colectivos (US$7) or taxis (around US$14) to reach your hotel.
Island Runabouts
As Isla Mujures and Holbox are so small, the favorite way to get around is by golf cart. There are plenty of rental shops on each island, and rates are around US$50 a day on both. On Isla Mujeres the same shops usually rent out motor scooters (from around US$25), and both islands also have bicycle rental facilities. Cozumel is that much bigger, so rental cars or scooters are popular.
Ferries to the Islands
Cozumel
Passenger ferries run from Playa del Carmen. The two companies, Mexico and Ultramar, run ferries almost every hour, daily 6am–11pm. A single fare is about US$11. Car ferries are operated by Transbordadores del Caribe (www.transcaribe.net) and run from Puerto Calica, south of Playa, 2–4 times daily.
Holbox
The ferry port is tiny Chiquilá, a 2–3-hour drive from Cancún. Boats make the crossing every 1–2 hours between 6am–7pm; the fare is about US$5.50. Second-class buses run to Chiquilá and back from Cancún and Mérida. Drivers can leave cars in safe parking lots in Chiquilá for about US$4 a day.
Isla Mujeres
There are passenger ferries from Puerto Juárez, north of Cancún, run by the Magaña and Ultramar companies. Both sail every 30 minutes from 6am–midnight with the same fare, around US$5.50. Buses R-1 and R-13 run to Puerto Juárez from Av Tulum in Cancún. Car ferries run from Punta Sam, five times each way daily.
By Bus
The bus is a basic Mexican institution: every village has a bus or combi service of some sort, so there really is nowhere that cannot be reached by public transportation. First-class buses are air-conditioned, modern, and very comfortable. All luggage is checked in, and buses are usually very punctual. The main first-class company in the Yucatán is ADO (www.adocom.mx), while ADO-GL and UNO offer extra-luxury services, with more leg-room. Second-class buses provide local services. They are cheaper, less comfortable, and naturally slower than first-class. There are also intermedio services, which stop often but have first-class comfort. The most important are the Riviera shuttle buses that run every 15 minutes between Cancún and Playa del Carmen, and Mayab buses (one or more each hour) which run the length of the Riviera between Cancún and Tulum. First-class tickets can be bought online or from Ticketbus shops (tel: 01-800-702 8000; www.ticketbus.com.mx) in many cities. Terminal CAME (Calle 70, between calles 69 and 71; tel: 999-924 8391) is the main long-distance, first-class bus terminal in Mérida.
Car Rental
All the main international chains have franchises in Mexico, especially around Cancún, and you can now get very good rates by booking online. If you decide to rent a car once you’re in Mexico, you will often get better deals from small local agencies, particularly in Mérida. To rent a car in Mexico you must be over 21 and have your driving licence, passport, and a credit card.
Taxis
Most Mexican taxis do not have meters; instead there are fixed rates for each area which are posted at taxi stands. In Cancún taxi rates are higher in the Hotel Zone than in the city. The general rules are: get an idea of what the correct rates should be, and always agree a fare before getting into a cab. Mérida now has meters in many of its cabs.